Quickie Chip Experiment/Test (Using 'AK Interactive' fluids)

[marc_reusser]

I needed to try the new AK Interactive chipping fluids that I received , so I did some quickie tests last night.....here are some snappies of the experiments Mind you, these are all just to see how the product works, different ways of applying it and some quick post chipping work to see what the next steps might be. ...I had no specific "final" result in mind.

I wanted to try some different approaches to layereing the resists and colors.

CHIP TEST 1:

1. Mr Surfacer Primer
2. Tamiya base color (dark rust tone mix)
3. Seal w/ Modelmaster "Lusterless Flat"

4. Sponge with Life-Color Rust tone.




5. Apply 1-coat of Treseme hairspray from a can.

6. Apply Tamiya CM-ish and color coat.




7. Chip with water after 30-min drying




8. Apply AK Heavy Chipping solution (dried with hairdryer)

9. Apply Tamiya color and fading coats.




10. Chip with stiff brushes.







CHIP TEST 2:

1. Mr Surfacer Primer
2. Tamiya base color (dark rust tone mix)
3. Seal w/ Modelmaster "Lusterless Flat"

4. Sponge with Life-Color Rust tone.




5. Apply 1-coat of AK light chipping solution
6. Apply Tamiya CM-sh and color coat.




7. Chip with water after 30-min drying






I did these samples pretty quickly and each was done to see how I could layer the resists to get that layered/discolored chipped look. The last photos of each step above are obviously just part of the process to the final results (which I will show later)....but at this point I thought I would post my observations re. the AK solutions. NOTE...this is obviously my first try with these, and my observations reflect that. Also..note I used these products over a matte base/clear...a satin base/clear would likely yield different results.

I was actually very pleased with the "Light Solution"...it comes off quite a bit easier and in a far more controllable manner than HS...this can be seen on the car roof sample in TEST-2...2where I was able to obtain both large area chipping, and directional chipping (front to back wear). I was not able to get the same control or ease of removal with the HS in TEST-1





Then I played around with one of my test parts a bit more. Only the right fender, right side of the cab and hood, and the rear of the cab have been done (well, in respect to the top of the hood and the left fender).

I added quick some oil fading and overpainting, some pigment and, oil pin washes, just to see what feel I could get, for the steps after the chipping. (sorry ro the wierd lighting...these were just a couple of quick pics outside.) BTW, scale on this piece is 1/35.










M

[Mobilgas]

Marc,   Didn't know that AK had chipping fluids? is this something new.  The tests your doing are looking real good

[marc_reusser]

Thanks Craig.

They are a brand new product, just becoming available this month (2nd, and 3rd bottles from left in image below). AK states that they created these so as to have a standardized fluid, that people could use if they wanted to, that would be the same for whoever used it. This came about because of the various discussions on forums about people using hairspray, and having all sorts of issues, (despite following someone elses exact steps) because they used a different type/mfr of hairspray....AK figured that a standardized fluid (that is also odorless) would help modelers achieve the same or sim effects that somone else got using the fluids [of course skill and patience not withstanding   ]



I still have a good bit of experimneting/learning to do with these, but at this point, I like the "Worn Effects" (lighter chipping) better than the "Heavy Chipping" fluid, though I am sure once I get a grip on the 'heavy' I will be just as happy with it. The light shoots beautifully through the AB right from the jar...I shot it at 1.5 bar and it went in smooth and even and dried quickly. My IAWATA HP-C did not like the heavy as much...I upped the pressure to 2.5 bar, and it still came out thick and "specled", though when it dried, it dried nice and flat and smooth (Virgil, "Dr. Cranky", shot his at 30-40 lbs. psi, and it came out smoother.)


One very nice thing about both these fluid is that unlike HS, they dry completely matte...so if you go over an area that is suppused to be exposed matte rust, you don't notice it like you do with HS....it also does not darken the underlying color like can happen with HS.

Marc

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks for the nice write up. Looks promising! I need to get a hold of some of those, though I might miss the prom date memory trigger if I give up hairspray!

[danpickard]

Hi Marc,
Thanks for the SBS & review (been missing them of late).  At first I was thinking, why do we need this stuff in a jar, when there is the hairspray technique, but then the explaination of aiming for the standard effect, or predictable effect, does make sense.  All hairspray isn't quite the same (well, not by much), but atleast a product like this will make it easier for those that want to know more that using this product will yield this particular result.  Would be interesting to know how the different solutions vary (between the light and heavy chipping product)...is one just more diluted or what?

Good to see these experiments of yours entertaining the forum again.

Cheers,
Dan

[marc_reusser]

Thanks guys. It's always fun for me to try new products and techniques. Glad my ramblings are of interest. It's about all I have time for and can these days.

Chuck; did Carlos send you the project forum link? Otherwise drop him a note, and also ask him about the products. They will ship to you from AK USA.

Dan; Yes, the "Heavy Chipping" fluid is thicker/less viscous than the lighter "Worn Effects", but like the lighter it dries down very smooth and flat. I did do an initial test and a comparative review, but before I post the results/my experience, I need some questions clarified from Mig Jimenez/AK, so I can give a fully informed response/explanation.

[Malachi Constant]

Marc --  Thanks for the detailed prelim's on these ... look quite promising.  -- Dallas

[Junior]

Looks very good indeed! I have these fluids since awhile back and are right now doing some tests. Not sure it´s any different to hairspray but thicker it is for sure. Mig himself had a clinic at the show in Eindhoven but I didn´t see that much of it. Thanks for an excellent (as always) SBS.

Anders

[billmart]

Marc -  I appreciate your SBS tutorials in this thread and others.  I am totally new at this type of weathering and I have some fundamental questions.

What is Mr. Surfacer Primer?
What is Tamiya base color (dark rust tone mix)?  Is this your own mix of Tamiya colors?
What is CM-ish or CM-sh?

Thanks for your time and assistance.

Bill Martinsen

[Gordon Ferguson]

Hi Bill hope you are well.

Going to jump in hear to see if I can help (and return some favours I owe you)

This thread of Marc's will give you a lot of info

http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=370.msg4315#msg4315

Although he using a different brand here than Tamiya the base colors are much the same , I use Tamiya Nato Black XF69, Hull Red XF9, Linoleum Deck Brown XF 79 and or Dark Green XF 61 - the mix ratios are for me not critical just depends on what your final idea for the finish is , in my case I like a darker base if machinery is still in use and a browner shade if abandoned.

Mr Surface Primer ............. its what says on the tin, you can (?) get in 3 grades ....... has the advantage of being very fine giving a a great coverage with a thin coat so as not to obscure details ( Marc might be rolling around the floor with me saying that) ....... just punch the name into a search engine for more details and stockists.

CM = colour modulation , I should pass on this as a "little knowledge is a dangerous thing" but  a very crude explanation is that you paint different panels /areas of the model with lighter/ darker shades of the basic shade, it also includes element of directional/zonal lighting and then the use of thin colour glazes to tone down and bring together the whole thing.

Best just to ignore my explanation and have a look through this forum

http://www.migproductionsforums.com/phpBB3/

[Wesleybeks]

Ok here is another new guys question. Could someone explain or give me a link to a page explaining how to use Abteilung Oils.

I love the effect that Marc has created here and would like to create it myself.

[Mr scratchmod]

Very nice SBS on the new fluids Marc. I'm still playing with mine, got mixed results last time. Might have been from rushing it, to keep up 
Rob

[marc_reusser]

Pay no attention to Rob...hes just sandbagging. I,ve ssen his reults.

Wesley, what is it that you would like to know about using the oils? In general they are used in the same way stanard artist oils are used. The difference I find in the Abt502 oils is that the pigment seems a bit finer than your average artists oils, and even without the oil removing cardboard trick, they tend to dry with less sheen than your average artists oil...which is especially good for washes and such. Also, the colors right out of the tubeare mixed more towards modeling than the standard artists oils....regardles though I still like to mix them for my own vaiations and specific needs/effect. I do at times mix the 502 oils with regular artist oils as well...just depends. What I have found though...(and I can hear the groans about cost/size and other products just as good and cheaper, from the peanut gallery now),....is that tIMO the Abt502 Odorless turpentine works far better than any other turp or white spirit I have used/is on my bench (and I have 6 different ones both odorless and regular)...for creating washes, filter, thinning the oils and other effects. Yes it costs more for the little bottle than regular turps/white spirits, but you can do what I do......use the 502 for actual mixing and paint work....and use the regular stuff to wash the brushes and do clean-up.  My small 75ml bottle has lasted me 2 years....and is still 1/3 full.

[Wesleybeks]

Thanks Marc

That  does help. I'll try the turps you have mentioned.

You said in your one post that you did some oil fading. Could you explain how that is done?

[Mr scratchmod]

Although I only have the rust tone 502 oils, I can tell you they are great to work with. I mix them with pigments and enamel paints with no problem. I'll be ordering some other colors soon. They are much finer than artist oils and are great for washes and filters.

Not sure what he meant by the oil fading, but it has to be what I do. The oil paints are different than using acrylics or enamels in that you can thin them a lot and the drying time is longer. They can be "faded" by using them as filters and applied in layers. Fading can also be used for highlights and shadows. As with rusting, I classify using oils under "effects" and not weathering since you are creating effects either with filters, fading  and even color modulation.
We'll let Marc explain it better.....I just like doing it 


Rob