Westlake Publishing Forums

And so it begins "officially"
I figured that was a fairly accurate name.
No real name yet.

So what started as a brick mold of 36 individual bricks from diorama debris.
Ultimately lead to some "masters" of wall sections.
I was thinking of doing the whole thing out of individual bricks but after calculating over 5,000 bricks on just the back wall and only one side of it; I reconsidered. (insert quip here from Nick what a whimp i am!)

One of the masters;
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Then of course my Hannibal Lector vacuum box;
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Some bubbly silicone!
And damn I poured it like your supposed to but look at the bubbles - I was really scared at this point! :o
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But after 45 minutes under 22 inches of vacuum
The initial creaks from the box reminded me of submerging in a sub! No more bubbles!
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One of the molds after about 15 castings;
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And finally the wall, sort of..........
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The wall castings are just laying on the eventual backing.
In the bottom of the image is a yard stick.
The wall is 37.5" long or 50' in 1/16th and 12" high or 16' in scale. 20 separate castings in all.
Windows will be produced by Vectorcut (hurricane Sandy kinda screwed us up there)
After several discussions with Nick I have decided on (cast) "stone" lintels and  wooden sills.
You can see the recess for the left most window lintel in the pic.
The spaces between the castings will allow me to "weave" in individual bricks to (hopefully) make the wall seamless.

-Marty

Oh crap!  Look at that tiny yardstick.  BIG A$$ machine shop underway.  -- Dallas

Looking forward to this Marty. Its going to be a beast of a model when done.

Why Flemish bond? -- Russ

Marty , looks the business ....... although I don't envy you either trying to move the completed masterpiece or trying to find storage room it  ;)


(p.s. still chasing re your request)

Quote from: finescalerr on November 13, 2012, 12:42:46 AM
Why Flemish bond? -- Russ

Please Russ , don't tease the animal most of us are still in recuperation from his last diatribe on brick bonds  ;D

Marty,
Are you going to use the wall castings to build on an extension on the house to put the actual model in?  ;D

Cool start...unfortunatley I reckon this is going to be one of those models that will have to be seen in the flesh to appreciate how damn big it is.

Cheers,
Dan

-MJ

All I can say is ;D

All in all it was just a brick in the wall.
All in all it was all just bricks in the wall.

Jerry

Russ
Flemish Bond because somewhere in this mutt (me) there is some Flemish.
And my mentor wouldn't let me do a running bond! >:(
And English is too busy for a proper shop  ;)

It's not really that big, the diorama base (of just the machine shop) will only be 42" x 22"
While big, it is not much bigger than some O scale dioramas.
But it will be heavy! There will be almost a whole bag (20 Lbs.) of plaster in it when done.
I still dont have a real good idea on a permanent location but saw a cool coffee table/diorama???

Anyone got an interesting personnel door that would be appropriate for this shop?
I have been looking at flikr & image searches but have not seen anything "interesting"
May be I am looking too hard?
All I really find is the usual 4 panel or four lite door.
I'm thinking the 4 lite would be practical for the obvious reasons.

Thanks guys!
-Marty

What about one of those steel clad security doors made from riveted plates and featured in to many cop and robber shows?

Quote from: finescalerr on November 13, 2012, 12:42:46 AM
Why Flemish bond? -- Russ

                   Why not ?


  Because there isn't an American bond . Gawd knows what that would look like .

  Stretcher bond , or running bond if you must , implies to me either the wall is only 4.5" thick or that it has two skins of masonry with a cavity between them . Either option is not likely to me .

  Nick

I thought American bond was six courses of end-to-end bricks followed by one course with the short end facing out. (And English bond is a row of one, then a row of the other, alternating.) No doubt you will educate me if I am wrong (and that is quite likely). -- Russ

Looking at bricks (http://plato.acadiau.ca/courses/educ/reid/geometry/brick/bricklayer.html)

5th row ..

Common Bond or American Bond or English Garden Wall:
A pattern made like Running Bond but with a row of headers replacing every nth course (n is usually odd).  The headers are centered on the headers in the row of headers below.  Strong.

Oh , so there is an American Bond . But it's really English garden wall bond , and that is what  I shall continue to call it .

  So at the end of the day , the important thing is that there are headers laid in a regular pattern in  the brickwork somewhere giving the implication that the wall is at least 9" scale thick .

  Nick

Well, for years we have been taking clever British TV shows and re-making them in the US while pretending we thought it up. So why not a brick pattern as well?

Search the tag "fire door" on Flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pictobox/7112842245/

Thanks chuck!
At least someone read my post about a door!
Marty

Marty, something like this might work.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm7.staticflickr.com%2F6178%2F6170973357_2ee491e1d2_b.jpg&hash=223d52cffba8b17e2191d77475434001f42abac7)

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Quote from: lab-dad on November 15, 2012, 02:52:31 PM
At least someone read my post about a door!
Marty

Nobody reads this crap ... we just look at the pictures!  Now, get back to work and make some stuff to put in the pictures. -- Anonymous

I like that Gordon, especially the hardware. I also like the pedestrian door in the larger doors. Something I've done in real life quite a few times and would like to model. Judging from the middle drive pintel location on the right door and bolt holes in the door, it looks like the small door is an afterthought. The rusty leader lends a nice touch too.

Marty,

Here is a door on a machine shop in Brattleboro VT.

And notice the interesting brick pattern, a variation of Flemish bond. -- Russ

Quote from: finescalerr on November 17, 2012, 12:35:49 PM
And notice the interesting brick pattern, a variation of Flemish bond. -- Russ

  That's know as American bond ... in America .

I'd vote for the second set of doors  ;)

I like those!!!!!! ;D
I was hoping for something with windows.
May be i can use my vectorcut frames.
- Marty

I like the wooden doors with the windows....they look like some doors i modeled years ago ;)

Here's a photo of the rest of the building. The building is in the Evanston, Wyoming.railroad yard

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I think the doors in the round-house have windows. I will see if I can fine a photo.

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Here's a photo of the round house doors in the same yard.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm9.staticflickr.com%2F8197%2F8194315801_a000e67663_b.jpg&hash=ddf3100c9fcdbf3e1e82bb3a233a34e2d6ea63d8)

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Work is progressing but slowly.
Still pouring and casting.
Have also been working on the sub wall and cut-outs.

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I'd show you more but someone put up an "employees only sign on the
temporary door I made to check sizes and proportions.
Sorry,
Marty

Whats the point of a door, when the windows arnt in yet? ;D

Quote from: Wesleybeks on December 05, 2012, 10:02:04 PM
Whats the point of a door, when the windows arnt in yet? ;D

  It keeps the heat in and the draughts out . Duh !

Quote from: Wesleybeks on December 05, 2012, 10:02:04 PM
Whats the point of a door, when the windows arnt in yet? ;D

Need some place to put the "employees only" sign.

Hate to be nit picky, but since this is such a large scale, and you are building towards a high level of detail,...I have two technical issues with the door.

Maybe it's just the photo, but the bottom rail seems too small, or the side and top rails are too wide....the relative proportions are not what is generally done on panel doors. Usually the bottom rail is from 8-10" in height, while the stiles, and top rail are around 4-4.5"....5 at the most.

The second thing is the grade transition from the interior to the exterior...maybe this is just because the wall has not been set in place yet, but...again typically there was a difference in slab height from interior to exterior. The interior would at minimum be 1/2" higher than the interior to prevent water from running inside. Judging from the type of door handle, and the lack of a stop/rabbett at the frame jamb and head, this door swings out....so raising the slab under the door/interior slab, would help with the under door clearance for the outward swing as well.

Marc

This is a very good nitpick from a very good architect. I think all of us may learn something from it. -- Russ

 So what Marc is saying , is chuck the door away and start again . I'm not , because I'm not that mean . The lack of depth on the bottom rail could be explained away by saying that the door was re-used and had to be cut off to fit , not very likely but not impossible . Can't help you with the side rails . The middle rail could be a bit wider as well . On the plus side , the glazing bars look just right !

  To me , 1/2" difference in internal floor height and external ground level doesn't seem enough , water could still easily get under . In Britain , these days it is required that there is at least 6" between damp proof course level , which is usually the same as floor level ,and external ground level .

  However , this isn't really relevant to you as we are only going to see the inside .

  The door doesn't seem to be sitting squarely in the frame .

  The fact that you don't appear to have any doorstop on the frame , at the moment , would suggest that the door opens towards us i.e. inwards . The opposite to what Marc says . However , there will need to be some evidence of hinges for that to be true . 3 number 4" butt hinges should do the trick . Make sure that the bottom hinge is about 9" from the bottom of the door , the top hinge 6" from the top of the door and the middle hinge in the middle . Then you should be good to go .

Oh , and make sure you paint the door . Lots of different layers , some of which are peeling off .

Other than that , it is coming along nicely !

  Nick

QuoteThe fact that you don't appear to have any doorstop on the frame , at the moment , would suggest that the door opens towards us i.e. inwards . The opposite to what Marc says

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Nick, I agree with you on the stop/swing issue......I just thought that the image of the above was looking at it from the outside....hence the door swinging "out"/towards us the viewer. The "C" pull handle alll makes it seem like it swings towards the viewer.

That wide of a door...and probably 1-3/4" or 2-1/4" thick, I would go with/spec 4 hinges if they are butt-hinges.

...and good catch...missed the center rail width should be about 7" (though here in my office I have a back door, with window above,  from 1926, where its 5")

I'm glad I gave you chaps something to do!
I have to laugh though as this is nothing permanent at all.
But I do appreciate all the input.
The door was just to get a relative "size" for proportions from what materials I had on hand.
Yes, the stiles are 6" wide.

??? This being a very large door; 4' wide and 7'6" tall I was curious about material widths.
So on such a large door do either of you think the stiles would have been wider than the usual 4 3/4 - 5"? ???

Yes the bottom rail needs to be a full 10-12" not the 8" as built.
And I will be doing the diagonal boards on the bottom panel on the real one.
(Like the ones Paul posted)
I have been thinking about the "layers" of paint but not sure how worn out I want to go.
Yes it does look cool to do wood and paint all worn out by the sun and time but this is meant to be an operational and still in use shop, not an abandoned one. So I have to think more on finishes.

All the points made are valid and will/are being addressed.
Just for arguments sake this was a view from the outside, hence "employees only"
I really wanted to just post something so folks would not assume the project was sitting
on a shelf somewhere abandoned.  ;D

Hopefully some useful pictures soon!
Thanks!
-Marty

What a shop both in craftmanship and size!

Anders

Thanks Anders!
Unfortunately I have more machines I want than available space.....as usual.

OK
ATTENTION
I hope Marc & Nick answer my previous question about the door stiles.

Now on to the windows;
Dave @ vectorcut has cut some windows for me.
First one (on the left) has .045" mullions (3/4" in scale)
Second one (right) has .080" mullions (1 1/4" in scale)
Windows are 3" by 6" or (4' by 8' in scale)

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Here they are with some rough brick scraps for size comparison.
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Which looks better? I thought the .045 were too skinny but now feel the .080" are too wide.
In my correspondence with Nick ha said they "were about 1" wide".
I think the thinner looks better.
suggestions comments appreciated.
-marty

I made my muntins .06 wide (1") and the divider strip about 3/8 wide (not seen if these are inside-looking-out windows only . Maybe .06 will be a compromise that will look right.

I prefer thinner. -- Russ

For residential and light industrial I generaly tend to encounter 3/4" muntins on old steel windows, in some cases where the windows are really large (4x8 is not that large)they may have welded on "T" sections or "tube", on the interior, for reinforcing (this is often done on either side of doors in such windows, where they want to carry the "light look" of the 3/4 through, as it not only stiffens the assembly, but allows for mor surface to mount/weld the hinge butts) . I have on occasion seen 1" on residential, but it typically looks a bit off/chunky.

For heavier industry, I have run across 3/4" muntins and 1" as well (have not yet run across 1-1/4")....here I think the choice of muntin size depends on cost, size, location, application, type of window, etc. I have also run across tilt windows, or windows like those that have been discussed here with openable sections, where the muntins are 3/4" throughout, but the perimiter steel (what on wood would be stiles and rails), are heavier....1" to 1-1/4"  (hope I am making sense).


Marc

Yes Marc perfect sense.
I am having Dave cut some @ .060" and then decide.

Now, what about the door question?
Mj

Marty,

I wasn't aware of the door size, until you posted, so...4' x 7'-6

That is a tough call, in Residential I have seen this go both ways, typically when the doors became this wide, they also became thicker (on residential, going from your typical 1-3/4 to a thicker 2-1/8 or 2-1/2....Lived in a house that was from 1919, an the door was 4x8, and 3-1/4" thick, solid Mahogony. The stiles and top rail on that were probably around 5.5-6.5", and the bottom rail I am sure was 12"....never measured it (I did almost get my fingers stuck in it a few times)...just from memory.)

......anyhow, I started out wanting to say that as the door got wider (taller only, not as big of an issue as fast) if the rails and stiles would tend to get wider....and if they did not, they would at least get thicker, or inmy last rambling example both. This was because as the door gets wider you typically need the extra wood at the stiles and reals for bettery joinery and structural stability to prevent warping and deformation (rectangle becoming a paralellogram).

......however, on larger doors in industrial buildings this was sometimes mitigated...often later after time had started taking its toll, by the attachment of steel "L" at the corners, on the face of the door.

I do think you have a good bit of leeway with your stile and rail approach, and I cant give you a definitive, because there really isn't one....and even if I wer bold enough to try, I am sure you, or I, or someone else will pull an example off the web contradicting it. ;D 

This is one of those things, where I am sure there would be an example for whatever you do....like Chuck's initial funky eaves ::) ;D.....but I think that we as people in general, andespecially those of us involved in construction and old structures, are used to seeing certain things in a basic format/proportion...and though there are deviations in real life, it is not always best to go with the deviation, as it likely looks "off" in real life, and so will likely do so in the model as well. You would be best served by staying within the same proportions of the more common dimensions; that doesnt mean you can't size the stiles up to 5 or 6 or even 7.5, all it means is that you should then size the bottom and intermediate rails up proportionately. Also a good rule of thumb, which I know you know, is to always take into account what the typical milled lumber sizes were.  This is typical for shop built and lower cost manufactured products. You may find something a bit narrower than a common size, because it had to be planed or had a detail routed out of it...but again, just rule of thumb.

Since you will be doing diagonal strips at the panel, its not a big deal, otherwise, one other thing I might look at on this door is dividing that bottom panel into two...either vertically or horizontally, with an intermediate stile or rail, ....not only for structural reasons,..... but I don't see where, during this time period, a place like this would have had/used a piece of plywood for this, or wasted a 3' wide, clear grain board....or perfectly glued up and planed, 3-4 smaller boards to create that panel.

....sorry to ramble...and now getting off my soap box.

Hopefully this looks better.
I like it. Looks like the one Paul posted (which was what I was always planning to do)
and I really like the diagonal bottom panels

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After being "called to task" I figured i better make a proper door instead of my tester.
I still need to work out the door glazing as my lazer dude is hard at work on my windows.
So the temporary one will have to do for now.
I went ahead with 6" stiles.
Top rail is 6", middle is 8" and bottom is a full 12" in case I need to plane a little for a good fit.
Ultimately the door will be 2 7/8" (scale) thick when complete.

Still not what should be done at the top, I have seen dozens of different examples on the web.
Comments on the door lintel / header welcome. Pictures really appreciated!

I went ahead and built the jams & sill.
Here I am planning the rabbit into the sill.
Note the rabbits for the sides into the sill, I should do the top too.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2FE4C9E325-E20C-4A2D-A873-AC96C36B364B-11615-0000014EE04849B9.jpg&hash=3b0eb2edfa5f4548946f85c6f787bb3f90d4215d)

Now in case anyone was wondering about the floor height issue I will explain my construction process;
The plywood sub wall is sitting in a 3/8" groove.
This allows the wall to be free standing while I am building & thinking.
Once I attach the bricks to the plywood I can then remove the outside edge of the lip.
This gives me 6 (scale) inches above the "ground"
Then after i plank the floor i will gain another two inches.
Hopefully this is enough to keep the water out when it rains inside my house.
I will do the same things to the end walls.....eventually.......

Thanks for checking in!
-Marty

Nice work in the door. Now it looks like a real door.

Also nice work on the rabbeted jamb. ...I know you are probably getting tired of hearing from me, but two things on the jambs and sill. I have to my recollection not seen jambs that come flush with the face of the exterior brick wall face. Generally they are back about 3" (or more depending on OA wall thickness) The jambs if thick timber/lumber then are either partially rabbeted int the brick, or surface mounted and bolt anchored (bolt holes hiddden and plugged in Jamb face)......or if thinner 1x or 1.5x material is used, there is often a nailer stud/post slightly rabbeted into the brick, or again surface bolted, onto which the jamb is then nailed. These gaps and assembly are then covered by some flat trim or slightly shaped trim (generally referred to as "brick moulding").  

....and I have not seen many rabbeted sills.

Overall your Jamb and sill appear too deep. Sills and Jambs are generally around 5.5" to 8" or so in overall depth, the problem with deep sills is that they do get a lot of wear, and become an "un-natural" distance to step across (as is most human nature). Lastly...sills tend to be thicker than jambs...for obvious reasons, and the tend to be sloped at about 5-degrees. On older homes/structures, the whole sill was typically sloped.  This allowed for use of thicker/same thickness lumber across their breadth, whereas today they use shitty thin wood with a slope cut into it)...lastlly most sills had/have "sill horns" , and project past the face of the jamb and anytrim/brick-mold by 1"-1.5".

Guess I found my soap box again........

Marc ,

  You should read through what you are posting because some of your typos make it difficult to work out what you are saying .

Marty ,

   Is this the final position of the door in relation to the frame ? Is it going to open inwards or out ? If it opens in then the door should be on the inner side of the frame so that the hinges can work properly .

   As Marc says the frame is too wide . If I were to make in 1:1 scale I would make the frame about 4"x3" and the cill about 21/2" deep . I would also have the frame nearer the outside face of the wall . Maybe 2" back from the face . This will mean that the door won't be able to open more than 90 degrees , but as it is so wide that should not be an issue .

  Normally the cill would over hang the brickwork by 1" -1 1/2" with a drip underneath so that any rain water that hits it doesn't track back under the cill . Some times the cills are made of brick , possibly stone or wood . If I can find a picture or diagram I'll post it . However , this shouldn't be relevant to you as we are only seeing the inside of your building .

  I wouldn't have it opening outwards .

If the frame is made of softwood it is usual to make the sill out of hardwood . For obvious reasons .

The frame as you have it now is not really a frame but more like a " door lining" where the woodwork is the same width as the wall itself . This is usually done on internal walls where both sides are plastered . Usually flush with the lining ,and the resulting joint covered over with some sort of moulding , usually an architrave . So this will not suit your wall as it will be PAINTED brickwork !

I have already suggested how you can do the lintel above without resorting to a brick arch . Your call really .

  Phew , you would think that there could be so much discussion about a door and its frame .


Nick

Im glamd I'm mot the only one that struggles with Marc.
A picture would be most helpful.
I have built and installed doors but never on a brick building
and never on walls 16" thick!
I had shown the door from the knside this time as no one will ever see the outside.
I was planning on the door opening out as is standard here in hurricane country and
so I could leave it open slightly and not be in the way.

Im confused about the brick moulding.
Once it is painted how can you tell where the jam stops and the moulding starts?
Other than the decorative shape(s).
Again a picture would help and the internet dows not like how i phrase my questions i guess.

All my cills are the same width as the jams on my exterior doors.
A picture of a cill horn would help too.
May be there is a book on brick building constfuction i could get?
Being here in the modern tropics all i know does not seem to fit.

Thanks for the help.
Marty

Yeah, sorry about the typos, but doing a lot of the answers from the phone...which aside from my mistakes, often is a bit sketchy on what it wants to type all on its own.

Will go back and change them.

To my untrained eye, the door itself looks fantastic! As for the frame/sills/whatever, I'll leave that to the experts.

Marty,

Yes a picture is worth a thousand words, the problem in this case is, that we are talking "generaities' and "best practice"........these are the bold/broad strokes.....from there on in, Nick and I could argue ourselves to death, because even for the sil detail, we could both probably come up with wth 10-20 plus detailing conditions for a variety of materials and ways to assemble, and install them. We could drive you, the others and ourselves nutters. To make things worse....we don't know exactly what you have in your mind insofar as what you want to see for design, finishes, and materials....and without a fully clear picture of that, and a good bit of autonomy to dictate to you, how it should be done, it would be very difficult, because on things like this, every deviation/material/condition (not to mention geographic location, country, time period) can affect the way it would be constructed and detailed.

I used to teach a class on constructon detailing and assembly for architecture and design students....this stuff took hours of lecturing and drawing in person....imagine trying to type it out. :D

Marty, I know nothing ................... well in comparison to the "experts" but these might help a little

A stone lintel/step that has been painted at some time, believe the "sill horns" are those bits that go into the brick work beyond the door opening

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FWeatheredWoodTest001.jpg&hash=262114e71b42170b39289bfc13a630bceb42e13d)

Obviously this is the external view , internally the flooring is at at the same level as the top of the sill.

The frame/jam and moulding, the frame/jam is insert the depth of one brick and the the cove moulding is pinned onto to it

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FWeatheredWoodTest004.jpg&hash=f47a62a188f0cc6f67af337b640bbfa2c4a492fa)

And before I get comments , this door is about to be taken out and the opening bricked up as part of of a refurbishment ............. hoping this will be the final rebuild on this house, its only taken me 20+ years .


It might also be of interest to look at the brickwork, this is what is called Accrington brick, do not try to drill these bricks you will go thro' a lot of drills , they are hard ! ( I believe they were used for the foundations of the Empire State building) But notice how tight(narrow) the mortar joints are 

Thanks guys!
Gordon those pictures help a lot!
Would be nice if i had an actual building (like Marc said) that I was replicating.
Or even some old brick buildings I could visit.
I see what I need to do now, hopefully the adjustments will be correct.

-Marty

Hopefully this is closer to what it is supposed to be.
I now have nailers behind the jams.
The jams are now narrower (6")
And now i can add brick mold once the bricks are secured.
This is from the inside. Im planning on an outswing door.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2F76733B76-CC5C-46C0-9FA5-57A390472B0F-26359-000002FB65DE7917.jpg&hash=92bbb2352ea69a992ef72205e6f5555394cc4ac6)

Marty

Looks great to me Marty. Like Marc said there are so many acceptable practices in how this was done. Most I have seen show a masonry threshold however and that the rough opening of brick and/or stonework was laid on top of the sill giving the impression that the sill had horns.

Time to catch things up on this thread.
I have been working on the lintels for the inside of the building.
I found so many images of so many different types.
I found I was drawn to the rustic or frontier types;

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fth_frontier-lintel-0018_zpsc05cf4a9.jpg&hash=ec30518a4cfe7774fe5812ed197035cc0199a4cb) (http://s263.beta.photobucket.com/user/lab-dad-jones/media/frontier-lintel-0018_zpsc05cf4a9.jpg.html)

Obviously these have a lot of character.........
So I did a few;

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2F40F9AB0C-0E28-4A9B-AA0F-C02B8F4AE2E4-9575-00000114307156B8.jpg&hash=94865e69b386d3a8ffd820e5bda3c806d1fab3f0)

But in the back of my mind something was not right....
I reached out to Nick, Russ (NEBS) and Jerry and was told these i had made were not appropriate for my building.

So back to the drawing board.......
And this is what I came up with;

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2FE4364FF9-0B48-4CAE-9654-03BE86153070-9425-00000227CC38A9C3.jpg&hash=b73c2e6390faf72a3497dd4e8fc070a038b4db3a)

At least i had played with enough colors I was able to get that where I wanted.
I still want to add some other veins of color and slight variations but at least i am satisfied with the basic piece.

I am moving along and have more updates to follow shortly.
Stay tuned!

-Marty

Well the bricks are all installed........
It is obvious where I filled in with individual bricks between the castings, hopefully once the mortar is in it wont be as glaringly obvious.
Still have a long way to go.
i need to fix some bricks (missing/damaged) and "adjust some of the mortar lines.
Then seal the walls, color some bricks for slight variation with gouache, seal again and then on to the mortar.
I think.......
-Mj

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fbricksfinished12_28_zps4ffae40c.jpg&hash=4d775e773c7c056752508fac417032b6828a38f0)

For reference the wall is 12" high and 37.5" long

Is it the picture, or are the 2 right lintels a bit crooked?

That is a massive wall (at least to me!)

Chuck
Must be the pic (phone).
You gave me a heart attak when i read your post
Went out and checked it with my three foot straightedge!
Marty

Quote from: lab-dad on December 29, 2012, 06:54:20 AM
<snip> ... You  gave me a heart attack when I read your post ...<snip>

Don't care who you are .. that's funny! :) (hope Marty forgot a 'almost' there)

Quote from: Chuck Doan on December 28, 2012, 01:24:58 PM
Is it the picture, or are the 2 right lintels a bit crooked?

That is a massive wall (at least to me!)

No, the two left ones are level.  ;D ;D

I am sure that some/most of the joint problem will go away when filled, because right now the depth and darkness of the joints is creating an illision. If you still have a seam that is an issue, there is always the downspout, vent duct, external electrical lines fallback....or in a worst case scenario a concrete pilaster., or even a completely difernt hading of brick, to try and indicate a later additio/extension,

Quote from: marc_reusser on December 29, 2012, 12:18:54 PM

Quote from: Chuck Doan on December 28, 2012, 01:24:58 PM
Is it the picture, or are the 2 right lintels a bit crooked?

That is a massive wall (at least to me!)

No, the two left ones are level.  ;D ;D

I am sure that some/most of the joint problem will go away when filled, because right now the depth and darkness of the joints is creating an illision. If you still have a seam that is an issue, there is always the downspout, vent duct, external electrical lines fallback....or in a worst case scenario a concrete pilaster., or even a completely difernt hading of brick, to try and indicate a later additio/extension,

  Marc ,

   You're looking at the inside of the building .

  Marty ,

  Helpful suggestion of the day :

    If all else fails , do what I do... plaster or paint the bugger !

   Nick

If I am looking at the interior...why am I seeing wood sills sloped towards me....and whydo those wood sills extend into the brick on each side anyway?.....never seen that last bit.

'Cause thats the way I built it!  ;)
I wanted big wide sills to pile crap on.
May be all those pictures i looked at on the HABS site.
I would have used brick or stone if it were an exterior.
They are just laying in, this is still a work in progress.
Marty

Got the mortar in.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fwallcenter_zpsceb2fe6e.jpg&hash=2e73c2743ebc0c8986754775bdaba18971816521)

It is amazing to me how "white" it looks. I darkened it quite a bit, it was almost the color of light chocolate milk
But it looks white between the bricks.  ???
The bricks i put between the castings didnt really set well, guess i will do better when i have done it more than one time! Guess where the pipes & cabinets are going!
I still want to weather it some more and this is just another in progress shot.
the sills and lintels are just sitting in place. The windows are not glazed and just balanced in the openings.
I am also still using my practice door.
I am hoping to get going on the windows soon.

Happy New year!
-Marty

Finally getting back to the building.
My windows from vectorcut are exquisite.
Hopefully I can do them justice.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2FFF6BB676-FF8E-4A1C-9E25-583535AB1087-21993-00000264BFF58AE6_zpsb80e0d9c.jpg&hash=31fe933d23f47db30471379fd31e2c9af5bb7003)

Any comments or suggestions appreciated.
I'm thinking there should be something at the base of the window or top of sill?
Marty

They look good to me.

Here's a photo of some tinted windows.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm6.staticflickr.com%2F5206%2F5371516994_602009ef70_b.jpg&hash=0299888e6549ef8fb7dec687bd3624dd3c0cab4a)

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Looks pretty good...

paul

Marty,

Here are some more...

Paul

Interesting brick bond pattern. No doubt Nick will know what to call it.

As for the window mullions, I see more rust than on Marty's model. Of course, Marty could have rusted his had he felt it necessary. So Marty's work looks as though it could be 1:1, at least to my failing eyes.

Russ

Marty,

certainly proves that for this sort of thing its worth while getting the stuff laser cut.

I appreciate I am going against Russ but while I think your window frames are perfect in 2 dimensions I feel there is an element of of 3rd dimension, the depth of the frames, missing especially in 1/16 scale.

The industrial windows I have seen are either  T section , with the glass fitting into the top right angle of the T or formed out of strips with the verticals over lapping the horizontals  ..... in both cases there is a significant thickness between the front of the frame and the glass. Been looking for some example on the net but not found a perfect example although the attached hopefully shows what I mean with the sections & the depth of the frame.

Maybe you could get Dave to cut a second set of frames with all the bars slightly smaller than you origonal and use this as an overlay?

Gordon,
Good that we can agree to disagree.

Finding good pictures is a pain.
Lucky for us Paul has some good pictures!

I think you are correct on the depth to a degree......*
My windows are a scale 1/4 thick at the mullion overlap.
*The windows you posted look like wood (to me).

The iron windows are thinner due to (obviously) material strength.

I think when i show the updated door mullions (wood) you will see.

-Marty

OK, will await developments  ;)

I know why you think so, but can assure you those are steel window frames

The windows are in!

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fwindow_zpsfc254a72.jpg&hash=d67d67a515ed0103eeb6f78b1bd15605f344f815)

Time to move on to the flooring..............

-Marty

Not many nits to pick. Nice job. -- Russ

Quote from: finescalerr on March 22, 2013, 01:06:46 AM
Interesting brick bond pattern. No doubt Nick will know what to call it.

Russ

I don't know what Nick will call it (they have a way of saying things funny over there anyway) but the brick work in the photos look like what I would call a Common Flemish Bond. (3/4 brick Bond course every 6 rows)

Everything looks great Marty!

Looks good MJ.

Can't wait to see the floor.

Jerry

When a window closes another door ...er gets installed?
Oh well, you get the point.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fsidedoor_zpsf0d737a0.jpg&hash=8aaf050c054ffcd6ec7b19952faf5529df88f172)

I just could not bring myself to paint the door.
I did paint the trim which probably is wrong but at least it gave me the chance to use some of that crackle paint finally.

The flooring is half the thickness it will (eventually) be just testing colors.
-Marty

Nice looking door Marty.

Jerry

There is something to be said for good craftsmanship in a very large scale, n'est-ce pas? -- Russ

Quote from: chester on April 04, 2013, 08:22:01 AM

Quote from: finescalerr on March 22, 2013, 01:06:46 AM
Interesting brick bond pattern. No doubt Nick will know what to call it.

Russ

I don't know what Nick will call it (they have a way of saying things funny over there anyway) but the brick work in the photos look like what I would call a Common Flemish Bond. (3/4 brick Bond course every 6 rows)

Everything looks great Marty!

  Yes , it is Flemish Bond .

Thanks guys!
Russ, I don't speak Spanish but I assume that's a compliment. ;D
-Marty

Quote from: lab-dad on April 08, 2013, 04:58:21 AM
Thanks guys!
Russ, I don't speak Spanish but I assume that's a compliment. ;D
-Marty

  Fool , he's talking in German !

Great looking door Marty! What is the origin of that handle?

Thanks!

QuoteWhat is the origin of that handle?

Micro Mark sells them, The handle is nice as it has that curve in both directions like it should. It is also solid brass so the blacken it gave it a nice patina.
I used square head screws to attach it instead of the pins that came.
They also have the (operating) hinges i used.
The hinges are 5/16" tall and 5/32" wide.
I can measure the handle if you want. The center rail is 1/2" for reference (I think)

-Marty

What will you do about a lock or latch? -- Russ

Nice door Marty.
I don't see any mullions anywhere.   Lots of muntins between the glass though.
8)

-MJ

Well if this is just the start.  No weathering or anything I think it looks great. I don't know what they call the marks from the saw but it really looks realistic to me.

Good job Mr. Jones.

Jerry

Quote from: TRAINS1941 on April 22, 2013, 06:31:23 PM
-MJ

Well if this is just the start.  No weathering or anything I think it looks great. I don't know what they call the marks from the saw but it really looks realistic to me.

Good job Mr. Jones.

Jerry

Jerry ,

They call them " sawmarks" !

   Nick

Marty ,

    This build is coming along nicely , however , there are one or two things I am unclear about . This wooden floor you have spent so much time on, is it a suspended floor , on timber joists , with the floor boards nailed to the joists ? Or is it a concrete floor , with the floorboards attached to battens fixed to the concrete ?  Because if it is the former , I can't see how the joists would support the weight of the machinery and if it is the latter , I wonder if they would have bothered with the floorboards if there was a concrete base . Will you be putting the machinery on concrete pads ?
  In this scale I reckon you need to show nail heads in the floorboards at approx. 16"" centres .

Not being too picky , I hope ,

   Nick

Marty,

I think there should be gaps between the planks. Often the older planks have dried out badly so they start to bend upwards from the long sides (hope I did say it understandable), especially where sunlight shines onto them. And I would underpin Nick's comment concerning the concrete floor/pads.

Volker

Marty, between the Terrapin comments and the ones above you have some very good information ... and no doubt a few more guys will add to your grief. So far everything I've read seems valid and Nick's structural tip is crucial--a point I'd completely forgotten. (Anders might have written something about it in the article about his HO enginehouse/machine shop.) I think you are getting top notch advice for creating an outstanding diorama. -- Russ

Marty,

I like the saw jitter marks.

...and i truly dont want to add any additional stress/pian....

I do however have some things that bug me. The plank spacing/joints looks odd...looks more like it was scribed into a single sheet than individual planks, also don't really care for the pegged boards....and how are these boards held to the framing below?....unless it is all T&G, and egde nailed, I dont see how these planks would stay attached to the top of the framing below, and keep from moving/deflecting (the few pegs would really not do anything).

The current coloring seems off/odd, but I am sure that will change once you progress.

....I guess, at the moment it doesn't seem at the same level of quality/finish/attention to detail and look of the machines.

Thanks guys,
I knew it was "off" so eyes other than mine would be helpful.
Nick
Flooring nailed to timber joists. Concrete pads for the machines.
I hear your concern for a wood floor, but it was done. Heavy timber joists, not necessary because the machines would sit on concrete pads and then leveled with the floor bolts/feet and grout underneath. (more on nailheads below)

Volker
I saw some examples of the flooring shrinking & lifting, good call!

Marc
Glad you like the saw marcs, was a feature i wanted to use.
The pegs/plugs were a "test" to see if anyone (me included) liked them.
The color bothered me too, I think Russ nailed it when he said it was too "red"

With all that said and a poor nights sleep i have come up with;

I looked on line at floors.
There is a good thread on RRLine (found it doing a google search on shop floors). A lot of comments by guys who say they worked in machine shops. They all said concrete due to hot chips but these guys are not old enough to have worked in the 1920's. ?????
Several comments about RR shops being wood though.

Think i will put the concrete pads (a must have) in first then the flooring. Will give me something to do. Look at Chuck's shop that everyone goes ape over or Mario's SVRR pics. The floor is filthy. You can hardly tell it is wood. Also that hides the nail heads!
I think this will actually let me use the rough pallet wood as I see lots of gaps between old floor boards and random repairs.
Now to find the right color(s)!
I finally found a prototype picture I like.
Edison's Machine shop.
I like the wear, dirt, stains, use and level of clean.
Going to go based on this;

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fshopfloor3_zps4c0487eb.jpg&hash=d01fe270ac0cccca0afc1c6a45df54678a158f28) (http://s263.photobucket.com/user/lab-dad-jones/media/shopfloor3_zps4c0487eb.jpg.html)

Gave me some good ideas on the staining (wood & oil) and colors....

Thanks again,
Marty

Yes, there were definitely wood floors in some old shops, as your prototype pic shows. I don't know if this will help but here are a few shots of hoist house/machine shop at an old mine. Because the floor is damaged you can see some of how it was built. In this case the really large machines (pumps, hoist, etc) were mounted on concrete:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.raydunakin.com%2FSite%2FComet_Mine_NV_Headframe_and_Hoist_files%2FMedia%2FIMG_2909%2FIMG_2909.jpg&hash=1b9acc85618c982418fa8012e91f603dd4ca19ff)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.raydunakin.com%2FSite%2FComet_Mine_NV_Headframe_and_Hoist_files%2FMedia%2FIMG_2933%2FIMG_2933.jpg&hash=9daf36497955e795b610cadc7be15866feb5dad0)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.raydunakin.com%2FSite%2FComet_Mine_NV_Headframe_and_Hoist_files%2FMedia%2FIMG_2966%2FIMG_2966.jpg&hash=a0cb8deb0bad262b19c512319d611a6f8af73c7f)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.raydunakin.com%2FSite%2FComet_Mine_NV_Headframe_and_Hoist_files%2FMedia%2FIMG_2981%2FIMG_2981.jpg&hash=62b407e766878f9b222103dfe99c4219ccba30b9)

Great pics Ray. Thanks. Saved to my reference files.

Interesting to see they used what appears to be about 3" to 3-1/2" T&G. Makes for a stiffer floor.

THANKS RAY!
Great pictures.
That is basically what I have been planning, the concrete under the big/er machines.

FWIW; I believe the "stringers" or floor timbers (under the actual flooring) are called "mudsills"?

-Mj

Not to be cantankerous, but mudsills are around the perimeter of a building, the lowest support for the walls.
As Marc said, the T&G flooring makes a much stronger floor.   
Wood is a great floor for standing on all day long as opposed to concrete but it is terrible for machinery.

Thanks for those Ray, I had not paid attention to the substructure before.

Wonder if putting the "neato" saw jitter marks on EVERY board might be overkill ... might be more interesting/effective if it occurred in just a few places to add interest?  Just a thought.  -- Dallas

Just some thoughts here gentlemen.

The vertical saw marks that are being represented indicate that the lumber was sawn or re-sawn in a band mill and the marks are left by the raker teeth.  If sawn in a circle saw mill the marks would be slightly radius depending on the saw blade diameter and board width. 

Now there is exceptions to everything but generally speaking flooring planks of any kind would be planed and milled.

It is pretty unlikely that they would, for instance, mill tongue and groove on the edges and not surface plane the rough sawn plank to dimension thickness and smooth finish. Possible but improbable in my thoughts.

Rough cut floor planking is probably acceptable in a saw mill shed or mine hoist shack but in a machine shop, I question that use.

Rick

I wondered if anyone was gonna comment on the "new" sample.
Yes, the rough cut lumber is out for this shop.
Far too rustic.
I am quite pleased with the color.
Marty

Coos Bay Iron works, Coos Bay, Oregon.  Two story wooden building, no pads under the lathes or other heavy equipment.  Floor boards probably 3 or 4 inches thick.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv485%2Fminis-etc%2F3deb2326-4bf6-46b7-86df-e981b7939864.jpg&hash=db3aa14f542a68066f92eb611eda0b40eaa1ac65)

Nice photo Bill. Thanks.
The "Western Wood Products" catalog used to show 2-1/2"+ thick, double T&G, flooring material in a couple of widths.....always kind of wondered what that was for.

Awesome shop, does it still exist?

Now the fun begins!
Dirty up the place add some clutter and more tools for that 'lived in" look.
Once I determine the final locations of the machines (few more to build still) then I can weather the floor up.
the flooring is 4" thick by 10" wide tongue & groove. ;)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fplaner_zps45a55d61.jpg&hash=464e609ab0f6b43a3f3c4ee6eeea42a15456d8f5) (http://s263.photobucket.com/user/lab-dad-jones/media/planer_zps45a55d61.jpg.html)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fdrillpress-1_zps0dffc9fa.jpg&hash=ff20b77b241988c77c7598d4a0c53f57d48ca1c3) (http://s263.photobucket.com/user/lab-dad-jones/media/drillpress-1_zps0dffc9fa.jpg.html)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fsawhorse-1_zpsad514943.jpg&hash=aedf26395bc351a14dca809dafca0225770ecbba) (http://s263.photobucket.com/user/lab-dad-jones/media/sawhorse-1_zpsad514943.jpg.html)

Also hoping to get the darn end walls installed & some doors!

-Marty

Marty those machines look amazing, I am really enjoying the work that you are doing, the brick work look pretty cool too.

Michael

Their believability increases tenfold when you see them together like this ... this can only get more and more impressive.

Most excellent.

Don't botch it up and take some knockout photos when it's complete. This will be like Playmate of the Year for most modelers. -- Russ

Impressive modelling lesson. I'm really enjoying the last set of pictures.
Bravo!!!

Awesome!

This is becoming quite a spectacular model.

The growing family is looking very impressive Marty.  It already has some wonderful appeal and plenty to look at, but am certainly looking forward to seeing all the past life come into the scene as well.  Excellent work.

Cheers,
Dan

Gorgeous... straight up gorgeous.  Playing catch up on the thread - but love the evolution of the building, and it goes without saying that your 1/16th machines are among my favorites.  As big as this is - if you are going "roofless", maybe spread your wings with some Swedish style night lighting shots for variation?

Keep it coming!

Finally getting back to this as well as the Wizzard.
How about scale pegboard! (1/16th anyway!)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fpegboard_zpsa8d0d8b8.jpeg&hash=3bc7e1173845aae40cfccb1bde23c43d529c4c71) (http://s263.photobucket.com/user/lab-dad-jones/media/pegboard_zpsa8d0d8b8.jpeg.html)

more stuff on the way too!
-Marty

hole size, thickness ?
c'mom show some data for the work, since you didn't show us the magic penny!
MPH

laser cut?

CNC at least?

I figured the ruled cutting mat was enough.......... :P

Laser done, holes are a scale 1/4" on 1" centers (.015" & .0625")
Thickness is a little more than the usual 1/4" (.025") but could be done a scale 1/4" (.015") if the edges were to be seen.
I was thinking about this for a junk pile.
This one is .025" so I can put the pegs in w/o messing it up.

This is a new laser guy who lives 15 miles from me!
He has LOTS of other things he is going to do for me! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

-Marty

I hope he finishes my stuff before he sinks his teeth into that huge stuff!!!!!! ;)

Jerry

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2F231CC613-3F45-4345-802A-97DC305DD1F3_zpsmyqtbuyv.jpg&hash=b8e93a238d9d5cabc0c896ab9f497f2a3d8e44f3) (http://s263.photobucket.com/user/lab-dad-jones/media/231CC613-3F45-4345-802A-97DC305DD1F3_zpsmyqtbuyv.jpg.html)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2FB0538324-11B9-44B1-AB06-F5443BEA5B21_zpshw3guhln.jpg&hash=29460f1f435564ebb64528628281c2dfbd256a39) (http://s263.photobucket.com/user/lab-dad-jones/media/B0538324-11B9-44B1-AB06-F5443BEA5B21_zpshw3guhln.jpg.html)

Needs more stuff on it but it is a start.
Mj

You are a large scale natural. Your work has never looked better. -- Russ

nice wrenches, but they look to be all the same size, and for bigger wrenches they would be box style, not flat. The peg board looks lonely , and the brick wall is to clean. Peg board is for Bob Vila, Machine shops use metal fixtures
Good start, C'mon we hold you to a higher standard
MPH

Marty,   The peg board just don't look right to me...I think something made out of wood to hold the tools will look the part.  You know like a tool holder that has been on the wall for 60 plus years  ;)

Not sure of the era you're going for, but I did some digging and peg board as such seems to be a 1950s and later thing ... Masonite as such came about in the mid to late 1930s ... first photo is from a 1938 advertisement.

So, I did some digging in old Popular Mechanics magazines, etc. to find a handful of tool racks and such that would be plausible around WW2 and earlier ...

At the risk of a minor high-jack, here's a bunch of them ... some may be more interesting than others ... or maybe it's all a bunch of useless crap for you ... sorry!  (I was searching mostly for things that would believable in a small auto shop) ???  8)  :P

More reference crap ... the photo names include the year.

The heater is thrown in for kicks ... notice that it's gasoline-powered, with an INDOOR gas tank ... and says that it was used in a restaurant!

Last one in my hi-jack ... this one has recessed spots for all the different tools ...

PS -- These things were found by using the "books" search feature on google ... you can set a specific time period (for example, 1920-1945, whatever) ... and you can also search only in specific titles, like Popular Mechanics, Popular Science, etc ...

PPS -- If it's all a bunch of useless annoying crap, just say so and I'll remove these posts!  (I'm accustomed to being useless and annoying, so no offense will be taken)  ;D

It's been a while, but I think I used the "print screen" function to make snapshots of the results ...

Cheers,
Dallas

Hi Marty,

if you're interested, I might even leave a set of open-end wrench, 1:16.

The sentence is unfortunately metric.  ;)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F646%2Fmedium%2FIMG_20140110_181652.jpg&hash=c7dc3fe001be8dc903e7cdc38e1e97fe74cc03de)

Dallas,
All good info and glad to have it.
I think the pegboard is too modern for my shop.
Just wanted to show the offering from my laser guy.

I have open, offset open and box wrenches!

Thanks to all for the input and looking in. 

Marty

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fsmcabcropped_zpsd327632a.jpg&hash=0fe85a389c7a6447cccb13bc6045e557234334bb) (http://s263.photobucket.com/user/lab-dad-jones/media/smcabcropped_zpsd327632a.jpg.html)

Just a small update.
Something i wanted to do for a while; the wall shelf - everything else is old.
Think I will build a bigger one now.


Marty

Photo's look great! Who's your photographer  ??? ::) ::)
I like the work bench very much, but the shelves would be hard to reach, I think the Big A$$ MS needs a Kennedy tool box, a Machinist roll-a-way, I have my fathers, I can take pictures for you, but you know what they look like!
MPH

Nice photo of a workshop, now where's the model?

Seriously, that is amazing work!

Superb! I like that a lot.

Excellent work there MJ.

Jerry

Ditto all the above. -- Russ

That's, um, good. You were concerned about the joining bricks that are somewhat skewed. This especially makes the wall interesting. Looks like sometime a part has been added to the building. On first sight it really looks like a prototype pic. On 8th sight I'm starting to look for something to carp about. Maybe the coloring of the wood of bench and sill, which looks to "new" / yellowish/brownish. Unfortunately there are no rivets for an experts opinion. :D

Volker

Thanks guys.
Tater Tot;
toolboxes are coming. I have several for reference.
Volker;
See my latest post on the shay for rivets to critique.
Marty

This is looking really great! Keep going!

Lovely stuff  - rely getting an atmosphere about it - Just a thought ABER -PE do some very fine mesh just rows of holes basically -they do various sizes seen them used for peg boards by sticking them on card looked very good
keep the good work up I just love it
Barney 

That shelf and the clutter in it are amazing!
So is the brick.
And the windows.

Amazing thread.    Great reference photos by members.

Enjoying my timeout, looking at work of others.

Marty.
The machines are just awesome. 
You must be extremely satisfied with your many hours of work.

         thanks

    "M"

Just curious, any update on the shop itself  ;)

Not really,
Been using it as backdrop for the shay.
I did pick up an old Airfix beam engine I am converting to a horizontal engine.
Once I get it farther along i will post a thread.

Thanks for asking.
Marty

Quote from: lab-dad on May 03, 2015, 01:51:54 PM
Not really,
Been using it as backdrop for the shay.
I did pick up an old Airfix beam engine I am converting to a horizontal engine.
Once I get it farther along i will post a thread.

Thanks for asking.
Marty

how are we doing with this?

All modeling has stopped.
I am back in woodworking and Hot Rod mode.
Thanks for asking, I will get back to modeling....eventually.

Marty

Then post photos of your cars, woodwork, and previously built models. There is no escape from this forum, Jones, ever. You are doomed! -- Russ