Feldbahnmodule with ship

[Ray Dunakin]

Very fine work as always!

[finescalerr]

Just over an hour for all that? Astounding! But what about the time you spent thinking and designing before you drew the plans?

I am extremely impressed by this and by so many of you geniuses on this forum. I wish people I deal with in other fields (like doctors, businesses, and even musicians) were as competent.

Russ

[Bernhard]

Frithjof, this is as always extremely interesting, instructive and inspiring.
Bernhard

[fspg2]

@Ray, Russ, Bernhard
Thanks!

But what about the time you spent thinking and designing before you drew the plans?

This happens while sleeping ;-)


Yesterday I was able to continue building on the sliding carriage.

For this purpose, the metal tape measure was glued in position with the center zero.

The HPL profile (High Pressure Laminate) for the two adjustable zero markings were installed from the bottom with three M2.0mm screws in the sliding block.

Schiebetisch_14 (fspg2)



For the two zero markings, an old plexiglass lid was made a little lighter.

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Both parts were milled twice ... if one breaks off, a replacement is existing.

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The 0.35mm deep V-groove is located on the underside so that the line can be read closer to the measuring tape.
It was colored red with a waterproof felt pen. Before everything was dry, I cleaned the surface with kitchen paper.
Only a small red line remained in the recess.

Through the elongated holes, the two plexiglass plates can be adapted to the respective thickness of the saw blade.

Schiebetisch_18 (fspg2)



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So now the sliding table is ready for the next challenges.

[fspg2]

In addition to the Kerfmaker and sliding carriage, I found many useful tools on the WWW while browsing various woodworking sites, which can also provide useful help on a small circular saw.

So you can set a value with the enclosed angle stop on the Proxxon saw ... but it is a matter of luck whether you also reach the set angle. Depending on how you press the T-slot in the guide groove of the table, you get different results.
See also  here.

But what do you need for precise miter sawing?

Within the sliding table, I can achieve 45 and 90 degree cuts with a triangle. However, the size of the sliding table is limited here.

There is a possible solution to see here


So I particularly liked the following Tablesaw CrossCut Sled  especially since I can also saw longer strips at any angle.

Since the original should be a bit too big for my small saw, I had to build it myself again. It was drawn and the range of degrees extended to 90 degrees. For the miter sawing of strips, 45 degrees would have been enough (you can also guide the strip for 60 degrees from the other side with 30 degrees on the guide rail.
However, I want e.g. it is not always possible to make a miter cut on a component that has already been assembled.

Here are the first steps to reduce the size of the replica.

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[finescalerr]

That is absolutely beautiful! Did you photo-etch the protractor into the aluminum plate? -- Russ

[fspg2]

No, I dinˋt used an aluminium plate.
It is a 6.0mm HPL plate.
All slots are engraved with a V-Router Bit like here
The figures are 0.2mm deep, the lines 0.3mm.

[Bernhard]

Nice clean work!
Bernhard

[finescalerr]

"All slots are engraved with a V-Router Bit"

That is even more impressive.

Russ

[Ray Dunakin]

It looks as good as something you'd buy from a manufacturer, and probably more accurate!

[fspg2]

Before I will continue to work on my actual projects, I would like to add a few helpers to the workshop.

So far, I used Gudy 870  to glue the board material onto 22mm MDF boards.

These were attached to the milling table with clamps.

Over the years, over 30 plates with brass, nickel silver, plastic, Pertinax, aluminum, various woods, etc. have accumulated, many only contain small remnants.

In the future I want to machine many parts on a vacuum table.

Since I mill through most of the parts, it will not be a grid, but rather a perforated grid vacuum table.


So something was drawn again:

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Then it went to the milling machine.

A 360.0mm x 360.0mm x 10.0mm Makrolon board was glued to the face-milled MDF board with Gudy 870. (received as residual material for € 5.00)


The work steps were:

1) Drill 9 mounting holes with a 5.0mm cutter (296sec.)

2)  screw the Makrolon onto the MDF board in these holes with wood screws so that the board does not bend when milling the holes later (120sec.)

3) Drill 1080 holes (diameter = 6.0mm - 6.0mm deep) with the 6.0mm milling cutter (3100sec.)

4) Drill 1080 holes (diameter = 0.5mm - 11.0mm deep - starting from 6.0mm) with the 0.5mm drill (4655sec.)

5) Milling the outer contour to 350mm x 350mm with 5.0mm milling cutter in several passes in total 10.5mm deep (495sec.)


Vakuumtisch_auf_Fraese_04 (fspg2)



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It will soon be the turn of the base plate.

[fspg2]

Before I processed the base plate, the MDF clamping plate was face milled 0.5mm deep. Repeated milling had left several traces.

Vakuumtisch_auf_Fraese_07 (fspg2)



Then a 20.0mm thick 400mm x 400mm large PVC plate was fixed with clamps.

The plate was machined in several milling passes:

A small mobile phone video shows the processing with a 5.0mm single tooth cutter: click

After almost two hours, the board was just unscrewed from the MDF board.

Vakuumtisch_auf_Fraese_08 (fspg2)

[finescalerr]

Gorgeous. -- Russ

[nalmeida]

Thanks for the detailed step by step Frithjof, that's also something I need for my cnc.

[Bernhard]

With such a CNC machine you can do really nice things.