G'evening all,
I am in the progress of building a narrow gauge flatcar (running on 26,7mm track representing 600mm gauge) from brass, sandblasted and stained by a modelling mate, treated with a little wash of rustall ... please see building report here (http://www.feldbahnmodellbau.de/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=21) ... unfortunately only in german (sorry for the inconvenience) ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fgallery%2Fimage.php%3Falbum_id%3D7%26amp%3Bimage_id%3D224&hash=1b852137797073c3a5ccca343a088900501c4ccf)
... now it comes to the weathering/painting of the wheels, with steel rim and an inner part of resin - so I can't use brass stain and don't have rustall or any artificial stuff ...
I read some of this threads concerning weathering techniques and have a vague idea of how it's been done successful und have the ambition to try it. I have some Revell/Humbrol colours and some brushes ... I don't have an airbrush, spray cans or other (semi) professional equipment.
So I kindly ask you to put me on the right track (i. e. some sbs thread I haven't found yet) or make suggestions, how I could reach a nearly finescale result with simple/few equipment.
Kind regards
Gerald
Gerald,
I believe what you are after can easily be done with the paints yo have (depending on colors you have)....using only a brush and fine cell sponge. I have two threads that show this being used, but am away from the pc so don' know where they are at the moment. I will post the links for you when I get back in the office.
Two questions....do you have access to artist pastels, .....and what look do you wamt on the wheels...do you want them completely rusty, or so you want them to still have some paint left on them? Can the wheels. E removed from the car for painting or will you be having to do it with them in place? Do you have primer (Grundierungs farbe)?
Marc
Leider hab ich nicht ein einzeles Exemplar das fuer den selben/genauen Zweck, aber ich denke du kannst schon verstehen was ich da so vorwerfe.
Zuerst also die teile die du bemalen wills mit Waschseife/Spuellmittel (nicht Handseife...die haben Oel, Lanolin u. solchen Mist) u. warmen Wasser waschen/reinigen, dann gut trocknen lassen. Naechst, mit gutem Maskierband sorgfealtig und dicht die Rollflaeche, und Flansh Flaeche die mit dem Gleis in kontakt kommt, maskieren/verdecken.
Der Harzguss sollte wirklich eine grundierung haben, aber wenn das nicht geht, kannst du vielleicht vor dem waschen die flaechen mit ainem Fiberglass Stift oder feinem Schleifpapier etwas aufrauen.....bin mir nur besorgt das die Farbe sonst nicht gut festhaelt.
OK...zu den Farben. Da ich mit den Revell Farben komplett unbekannt bin, verwende ich Humbrol fuer diese beschreibung. Die farben die ich brauchen wuerde sind #160, #113, #62. Wenn sie nicht genau die Farbtoene sind die du suchst/brauchst, kann mann immer etwas schwartz, weiss, rot oder gelb reinmischen.
Fuer Grundfarbenschicht wuerde ich die duenkelste (#160) brauchen. Diese Schicht kann in zwei methoden aufgetragen werden....kommt auf Bequemheit u. Kompetenz darauf. Lackieren mit Pinsel, oder tuepfen mit feinem Schwamm. Das problem mit pinsel ist natuerlich Schlieren, die mann dann spaeter moeglich sieht. Wenn sich diese schicht etwas getrocknet hat kann man zufaellig (randomly) mit einem neuem stueck Schwamm die anderen zwei farben auftragen. [WARNUNG: Nicht den Schwamm in die farbe u. dann direkt auf das RAD....immer den Schwamm auf Papier abtuepfen so das nur wenig bleibt...dann auf das Rad. Dies braucht vielleicht etwas uebung...wuerde es vielleicht auf einem stuck Styrol ausprobieren.)
Das rost in diesem bild wurde so gemacht.(Skala 1:48)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Citroen%2FCIT_BodyRustDet.jpg&hash=2f8ed1aad9ffefcb78138ab8bac7958d35ae97ef)
...und hier sieht mann wie ich so mit demm Schwamm arbeite.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Citroen%2FCIT_IntBareMet_Tools200.jpg&hash=0aa692fed5cf2168dc3ed4ed5881e92d30242d36)(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_Citroen%2FCIT_IntBareMet_Applic200.jpg&hash=9dc5f620050e5dffe697039f46846a73219d89c5)
Dieses ganze Fass (Skala 1:35) wurde mit dieser methode lackiert. Insgesamt habe ich drei verscheidenen roestliche farben verwendet, u. eine leichte zwischen Wash von sehr verduenter "Preussiches Blau" Oelfarbe....dan noch etwas mit MIG pigmenten verstaubt (da kannst du auch Pastelkreiden Staub verwenden) [HINWEIS: vorsicht wenn du Humbrol vervendest und darueber so eine Wash mit Oelfarben machen willst...,,da Humbrol auch eine Oelfarbe ist greift die wash es an. Ich verwende immer Acryl grundfarben wenn ich spaeter Oelfarben washes machen will....oder ich schuetze die Oel Grunfarben zuerst mit einer einer schicht von Acryl Klaarlack.]
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FExperiments%2FPaperWall3_02.jpg&hash=02e7941bdeacf981e8569496c3a67814dc15f092)
Im falls du noch etwas ueberlassens Farbe an den Raeder wills kannst du es tun vis "Positive Chipping"...ganz einfach gesagt du nimmst einen kleinen Pinsel, und traegst die "ueberlassene" Farb Bitzen auf....so wie in diesem Foto. Da war alles zuerst nur die dunkele rost Farbe, das Rosa wurde dan darueber getuepft.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FSandsOfTime%2FAFS_9.jpg&hash=7337ac39f6885c369310d1f2fea3c525680bdb92)
Hier nur fuer info, siehst du wie ich das mache fuer Farbton variation (auf dem Schulterschutz teil ist es shon fertig im gruen u. rosa)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FSandsOfTime%2FAFS_21.jpg&hash=4ffed72141facc6f8e579c79f1a2114b8e4283ed)
Ich hoffe, all dies ist verstehbar und hilft.
Marc
Doch! Ist es meine Einbildungskraft? Ich denke, dass dieses Forum Deutsch geworden ist. ??? ;D
Vielen Dank, Marc. Jetzt wo ist der dunkel Dinkel Acker? (Das war mein Lieblingsbier zum Studieren von Deutsch.) ;)
-- Dieter Malerisch
Gott in Himmel! Was ist happenink hier? Es ist ein Englisher Forum you Showen-sie-offs! Sprechen Sie English so das rest of us kann unterstand! -- ssuR
G'day folks,
Quote from: marc_reusser on February 22, 2011, 09:46:44 PM
Leider hab ich nicht ein einzeles Exemplar das fuer den selben/genauen Zweck, aber ich denke du kannst schon verstehen was ich da so vorwerfe.
thanks Marc ... your tips (or more: an SBS) are very helpful, your translation into german is also very much aprreciated by me ... but writing/reading english is OK with me ... as long as you all don't mind my kinda clumsy english because I don't use an online translator ... execept BRAIN 1.0 ... :)
Quote from: marc_reusser on February 22, 2011, 01:46:16 PM
...Two questions....do you have access to artist pastels, .....and what look do you wamt on the wheels...do you want them completely rusty, or so you want them to still have some paint left on them? Can the wheels. E removed from the car for painting or will you be having to do it with them in place? Do you have primer (Grundierungs farbe)?
- yes I have some artist pastels now
- the wheels shouldn't be THAT rusty as I do not like these kind of "rustbuckets", but the prototypes do not have any colour on them so they'll get soon a little rusty anyway ...
- the wheels can still be removed, as I planned to colour/weather them before finally mounting them
- getting the primer on them will be the most tricky part, because I only can use the primer outside ... and we have -10 degrees below zero at the moment ... :(
I'll follow your suggestions and try all steps on some pieces of styrene first ...
Quote from: Malachi Constant on February 22, 2011, 10:06:55 PM
Doch! Ist es meine Einbildungskraft? Ich denke, dass dieses Forum Deutsch geworden ist. ??? ;D
Vielen Dank, Marc. Jetzt wo ist der dunkel Dinkel Acker? (Das war mein Lieblingsbier zum Studieren von Deutsch.) ;)
-- Dieter Malerisch
:) :) :)
... you're talking about this one (http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/3340/4032) I guess ... ?!
Quote from: finescalerr on February 23, 2011, 12:37:07 AM
Gott in Himmel! Was ist happenink hier? Es ist ein Englisher Forum you Showen-sie-offs! Sprechen Sie English so das rest of us kann unterstand! -- ssuR
:) :) :)
Gerald...your English is not a problem, probably better than my German (which BTW is also brain...not pc translator ;D...although I prefer Schweizerdeutsch ;) ) I look forward to seeing your results.
Russ...that's what Google translate is for ;) ;D ;D.
Marc
Quote from: marc_reusser on February 23, 2011, 01:24:04 AM
Gerald...your English is not a problem
...thx ...
Quote from: marc_reusser on February 23, 2011, 01:24:04 AM
... my German ... which BTW is also brain...not pc translator ;D ...
... (I thought so) ... great! ... ;D
Gerald
I learned German by drinking Dinkel Acker and watching Sid Caesar:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0iMF6DWpo8
That's why only Carl Reiner and Imogene Coca have any idea of what I'm trying to say ... ::) ;D
-- Dallas
Darauf habe ich nur gewartet.
Christian
(ein weiterer German Show-Off)
Quote from: Malachi Constant on February 23, 2011, 04:38:08 AM
I learned German by drinking Dinkel Acker and watching Sid Caesar:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0iMF6DWpo8
That's why only Carl Reiner and Imogene Coca have any idea of what I'm trying to say ... ::) ;D
-- Dallas
Believe me: consuming a certain amount of liquor enables some german people talking russian fluently ... ;D ... heard it with my very own ears, but didn't understand a single word ... ???
Everything I know about speaking German came from watching Hogans Heroes. HO-GAN!
I would also think that regular paints should work fine on the resin parts.
Deutsch ... die Sprache von Goethe, Bier und Modelleisenbahnen. Ich habe zwei Jahre in Frankfurt gearbeitet, eine schöne Stadt. Der Kaffee war immer stark, aber das Wetter sucked!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.freesmileys.org%2Fsmileys%2Fsmiley-flag008.gif&hash=596bc75da6e95ffff91523b2087bc109b0d173f2) (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php)
Three years in Germany and all I managed to learn is how to order beer! :) Speaking of which .. anyone else been to the Kreuzberg Monastery? The beer brewed there is IMO the best I ever drank .. anywhere .. anytime .. anyplace. I bow before this brew of the gods .. :)
I have heard that too, wondering/searching how to obtain some of their Hefe-Weizen.
Apparently the Monks only supervise now and workers make the beer........
-Marty, thirsty now!
G'day all,
just a fast update to show a little progress painting/weathering the wheels ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fgallery%2Fimage.php%3Falbum_id%3D7%26amp%3Bimage_id%3D232&hash=7e7b7d52ffd08d14d50b4f315bf31cdce583ae6c)
... using the recommended Humbrol colours ... the "rust" seems not to be "dark enough" yet. In my opinion it should more look like i.e. Marc's spaceman/droid (sandsoftime) ... well - I'll see what it looks like when the wheels have got treated with a blackwash and eventually some artist's pastells ...
Kind regards
High Gerald,
nice to see you here in this fantastic forum!
greetings
Frithjof
Moin Howdy Frithjof,
glad to see/hear, that you are going to contribute parts of your finescale work here ... :D
Freundliche Gruesse Kind regards
Gerald
Well, I'm glad to see we're using English again (sometimes!) ... wheels are looking good so far. You might want to compare them to the actual cars (wagons) or other parts before judging the final color. -- Dallas
G'day all,
Quote from: Malachi Constant on February 28, 2011, 10:30:20 PM
You might want to compare them to the actual cars (wagons) or other parts before judging the final color ...
... that's why I thought it would be worth to initiate a separate thread regarding the remaining building steps of that flatcar in the
Modelles At Work section ...
Kind regards
Hi Gerald:
Those are coming along nicely though I notice they look quite a bit different,and I think better, in the photo on the Buntbahn forum. Does that photo show them after additional work or is it a photography issue?
Paul
Paul,
Quote from: W. P. Rayner on March 01, 2011, 07:46:06 PM
... Those are coming along nicely though I notice they look quite a bit different,and I think better, in the photo on the Buntbahn forum. Does that photo show them after additional work or is it a photography issue?
... Sorry in case of having irritating you (and eventually other readers) :-[ - the actual look of the wheels, with blackwash and artist's pastells on, is this:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fgallery%2Fimage.php%3Falbum_id%3D7%26amp%3Bimage_id%3D233&hash=463448c5f004e13afcb3fc23dc1392b741ed62a3)
I thought, as mentioned above, it might be worth a new thread 1/22,5 Feldbahn flatcar for 26,7mm track (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1355.0) in the
Modellers At Work section to report the final building progress there ... and I so only posted the actual pic in this new thread ...
Kind regards
Gerald
EDIT: link switched to my "old" modelling website, as I intend to discontinue the blog
The contrast, lighting, and color balance of the photos are inconsistent but even so I find little to criticize in the color. Nice work. -- Russ
The final color of the wheels is excellent!
Gerald,
I hope this helps!
-I start by using a chocolate brown exterior spay paint in the rattle can meant for painting over rust and paint the wheels faces and the truck side frames. I give it 24 hrs to dry and airbrush with a 50/50 mix of Dullcote and lacquer thinner.
-The next step is to apply with a makeup sponge, Winsor Newton Artist Gouaches, raw sienna, burnt sienna, raw umber, burnt umber and white. Start with the lightest colour first working to the darkest with a coat of Dullcote between colours. Gouaches are opaque water colours in a tube.
The trick is to get the sponge to the right moisture content using window wash fluid from your car to moisten the sponge. When you think that its just right wet it some more and then blot the sponge between two pieces of terry cloth towel or old sweatshirt material.
-Next is to load the sponge, I use a piece of ceramic tile and squeeze out about 1/8th inch of Gouache on the tile and dab the sponge into the colour. Then keep dabbing the sponge on a clean spot two to four time to even out the colour and then dab it on your wheels. It's almost like dry brushing but with a sponge. Because the gouaches are water based, if you don't like what you done with that colour and you haven't fixed it with dullcote, you can wash it off with a damp sponge and start again.
-Once you've got the combination of colours in place and you are happy with the results, dullcote it and give it a very light touch with your sponge loaded with white a just barely catch the edges for high lights.
I've attached these photos to give you an idea of what it looks like finished in HO scale.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi179.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fw304%2Frrenzetti%2FTrainPhotos022.jpg&hash=cdb55a6450f8631972fa8a45bad8ea548b554157)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi179.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fw304%2Frrenzetti%2F010_crop.jpg&hash=3e65da5e918d7d4494784460dac041d8a37ea21f)
Ralph,
Quote from: CN6401 on March 09, 2012, 10:58:25 PM
I hope this helps!
-I start by using a chocolate brown exterior spay paint in the rattle can meant for painting over rust and paint the wheels faces and the truck side frames. I give it 24 hrs to dry and airbrush with a 50/50 mix of Dullcote and lacquer thinner.
-The next step is to apply with a makeup sponge, Winsor Newton Artist Gouaches, raw sienna, burnt sienna, raw umber, burnt umber and white. Start with the lightest colour first working to the darkest with a coat of Dullcote between colours. Gouaches are opaque water colours in a tube.
The trick is to get the sponge to the right moisture content using window wash fluid from your car to moisten the sponge. When you think that its just right wet it some more and then blot the sponge between two pieces of terry cloth towel or old sweatshirt material.
-Next is to load the sponge, I use a piece of ceramic tile and squeeze out about 1/8th inch of Gouache on the tile and dab the sponge into the colour. Then keep dabbing the sponge on a clean spot two to four time to even out the colour and then dab it on your wheels. It's almost like dry brushing but with a sponge. Because the gouaches are water based, if you don't like what you done with that colour and you haven't fixed it with dullcote, you can wash it off with a damp sponge and start again.
-Once you've got the combination of colours in place and you are happy with the results, dullcote it and give it a very light touch with your sponge loaded with white a just barely catch the edges for high lights.
...thanks for your additional input ... :) ... unfortunately this flat wagon has been already finished (http://www.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de/rollmaterial-flachlore-spurweite-iif/), but I'll give your suggestions as well a try on the two bulkhead flatcars (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1503.0) (which are on hold at the moment) ... except treatment with an airbrush, as I ain't got one and am working at my desk (or kitchen table) ... 8)
Quote from: CN6401 on March 09, 2012, 10:58:25 PM
... I've attached these photos to give you an idea of what it looks like finished in HO scale ...
... wow ... that's
H0 scale ... 8) ???