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#1
Military Modeling / Re: Another Artillery Tractor
Last post by Hydrostat - Today at 04:34:47 AM
Peter,

I had to look up 'preshading'. It's hard to tell if it worked or not from the pictures. Maybe green color wasn't thin enough?
Pre-Shading seems to be a rather model-making related technique like drybrushing to get a special impression to the naked eye. I'm not sure if it is necessary or even helpful for taking pictures of models, but of course it dpends on what you're after.

Cheers,
Volker 
#2
Military Modeling / Re: Another Artillery Tractor
Last post by Peter_T1958 - Today at 04:06:35 AM
Hi Gents

At least, all that boring breaking off, patching, glueing, filling, sanding and cursing finally leads to an outcome.

Primer:
Zusammenbau_10klein.jpg

Preshading:
Zusammenbau_12klein.jpg

First coat of paint:
Zusammenbau_13klein.jpg

Hmm, all that pre-shading turned out as obsolete. Perhaps, the difference between the brown primer and the black shading was too little. So I have to work more with washings and filters.
Still a long way to go, but now I can start already with the funny part: weathering!

Hope you like it!
Cheers, Peter

#3
Modellers At Work / Re: A snapshot in time. A glim...
Last post by Hydrostat - Today at 01:14:34 AM
Ray, thank you, I still do have a small piece of the Papilio self adhesive vinyl that you shipped to me years ago, which I'm going to use for some more signs. As per normal there are advantages and disadvantages in different approaches. Printing the signs on photo glossy paper makes it easy to cut the outline exactly. The very thin (I think 0.05 mm [0.002']) self adhesive copper foil glued to the backside prevends any light shining through, an effect that destroys illusion immediately. It's easy to bend or camber those signs, but they are a bit delicate, unless they are glued to a wall. I used CA gel for the edge and mounting adhesive for the inner, curved areas. Unfortunately I picked the wrong one (for absorptive surfaces) and it shrinked completely and took away the curving. I 'saved' the sign by filling the curving with baking soda and CA and then glued the now rather stable part to the wall. Glossy paper and copper foil result in a somewhat prototypical wall thickness of 0.15 mm (0,006'). The copper/paper edges are colored with a black edding. Then I dab clear nail lacquer generously to the surface to amplify the 'glassy' impression of enamel and to reduce the somewhat wavy paper surface. The both blue signs show the effect especially well:




The 'Haltestelle der Kleinbahn' and the blue 'Maiplatz' sign show the typical minor bulge.







Again everything depends on materials used. My current photo glossy paper is double sided foil covered. The white signs were made years ago when I had some one sided foil covered paper. I drenched the backside with very thin CA which gave this somewhat used and weathered impression, much better than the current material.




Although the printouts are protected by fixatives and lacquer those paper items are no way suitable for outside use, of course.

Using thin brass sheet (0.2 mm / 0.008') and self adhesive vinyl is the better way for freestanding signs. They are much more stable and keep a curved shape even if treated unwittingly a bit rough. But it is difficult to align the foil exactly, especially if there's a very thin visible outline at the sign. I still do have to test if and how nail lacquer works on the surface. I used vinyl (without additional lacquer) at the street lamp's toilet sign.

Howsoever: it seems to me that printing quality of inkjet printers has passed the zenith. I once had an Epson Stylus CX 5400, which showed great results and one was able to go deep into printer settings, up to manually numbered resolution. Of course this one died like all inkjets sooner or later from dried ink. All the later printers showed results getting worse and worse and nowadays their menus don't give lots of possibilities of professional intervention anymore.

Quote from: finescalerr on Today at 12:27:32 AMVolker, remove your magnifying glasses and go stand in the corner. -- Russ

I can't. They are basifixed.

Cheers,
Volker

#4
Modellers At Work / Re: A snapshot in time. A glim...
Last post by finescalerr - Today at 12:27:32 AM
Volker, remove your magnifying glasses and go stand in the corner. -- Russ
#5
Modellers At Work / Re: A snapshot in time. A glim...
Last post by Ray Dunakin - May 22, 2024, 10:53:26 PM
The signs and old crankcase look great!
#6
Modellers At Work / Re: A snapshot in time. A glim...
Last post by Hydrostat - May 22, 2024, 10:52:01 PM
Thanks Russ and Barney,

Quote from: finescalerr on May 22, 2024, 11:52:23 AMNo criticism.

I'm not sure: the crankcase screws are off-center and seem a bit undersized to me  ???
#7
Dioramas / Re: Chamonix Mont-Blanc
Last post by Ray Dunakin - May 22, 2024, 10:41:01 PM
Excellent!!
#8
Modellers At Work / Re: A snapshot in time. A glim...
Last post by Barney - May 22, 2024, 02:01:02 PM
Very Nice
Barney
#9
Modellers At Work / Re: A snapshot in time. A glim...
Last post by finescalerr - May 22, 2024, 11:52:23 AM
No criticism. An adequate addition. -- Russ
#10
Dioramas / Re: Chamonix Mont-Blanc
Last post by Hydrostat - May 22, 2024, 04:52:14 AM
Yes, it does. How did you make the signs?

Cheers,
Volker