Exterior masonry veneer

[Philip Smith]

Was wondering if anyone has attempted this? Anyhow this masonry toothed corner is affixed to .005 thick metal backer. Basically I'm planning a basic structure with this veneer by glue setting the toothed corners, followed by then filling in the middle, block by block. Any openings can will be wrapped back to give the appearance of masonry. The middle portion is individual pieces about .050 thick. Nothing like Nick's madness method of brick by brick, but hopefully useful?

Was also wondering how to fill the mortar joints when finished? Any advise or critique would be appreciated.

Philip 

[chester]

Your corner stones, commonly referred to as "coynes" , look pretty good. You're applying them to metal?

[Philip Smith]

Chester: As shown it's glued to a thin aluminum backer (ArtEmboss medium) so it will stand on its own. I'm planning on casting a few corners for general purpose. Hopefully the backer will stiffen it up. pretty fragile in the now state.

This neck O woods it's called a toothed corner,   

Philip

[shropshire lad]

 I'm not mad , it's everyone else !

   Nick

[Malachi Constant]

Hi Philip --

I'm sure my brickwork will give Nick terrible nightmares, but I'll post a photo anyway!  

Found Liquitex "Ceramic Stucco" (medium) to be a very easy item to use for mortar.  I put a scoop of that into a little 1 oz. medicine cup and add a TINY dab of color.  If you take say 1/2 oz. of the stucco medium and add a drop of Vallejo black, you'd think it would turn a nice gray, but it quickly turns black.  So, either use a nice light/medium gray paint to color the stuff or a tiny dab of black or dark gray.

Stir that up, then put it into a blunt syringe -- type used for refilling ink cartridges, etc.  If you try using one with a long metal tip, you'll find that it takes a ridiculous amount of pressure to move the stucco thru the needle -- the kind of pressure that makes tendons pop out (or at least get inflamed) so either cut the needle short or use one of those extruded glue-tip extenders over the tip.

You can work the stuff into the grooves with a finger tip and wipe of the excess the same way.  If you SLIGHTLY dampen your fingertip with water, that can help ... but you don't want to flood with water, cuz the stuff will get runny, etc. and make a mess.   You can clean up the syringe with water.  I fill it multiple times and then squirt it out into a BOTTLE for disposal -- figure you don't want the stucco stuff hardening in the pipes.

Liquitex Ceramic Stucco is available at Michaels, art shops, etc.

Yes, I know the needle tip in the first photo "looks funny" -- that's why I posted it!  

Cheers,
Dallas

[Philip Smith]

Dallas,
I'll try it.

What scale is that brick wall?
my brownstone blocks are about 1/2" long 1/4"tall and 19/64" depth. LG for o-scale.. looks pretty close to brownstone I suppose..

I figure a two -part mold with weep vents at the top of every tooth to rid the bubbles, unless you have a better way?
thanks,
philip

[Malachi Constant]

My wall is 1/35 scale -- bricks are a bit under 1/8 x 1/4" on the exposed side.  I'll think about the molds ... Dallas

[marc_reusser]

Your corner stones, commonly referred to as "coynes" , look pretty good. You're applying them to metal?

"QUOIN(S)"


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quoin_(architecture)


M

[chester]

Quoin, quoyne, coyne. The dressed corner stones of a building. 

My old Irish mason spelled it the way I did on his invoices. Yours is certainly the most acceptable Marc.

[marc_reusser]

Chester....

Sorry..no offense was  intended...I'm just in a pissy mood today.


Marc  (just call me Cliff Claven)

[Philip Smith]

A few more photos with the tuck pointing finished. Used a sample of magic sculpt flesh, as I did on the outside corners earlier. Seems to work good once raked out with a resharpened toothpick followed by a light brushing. Will fill the void on the back side once cured to seal prep for molding.

Philip

[Ray Dunakin]

What are your blocks made of?

[mabloodhound]

Quoin, quoyne, coyne. The dressed corner stones of a building. 

My old Irish mason spelled it the way I did on his invoices. Yours is certainly the most acceptable Marc.

I saw that too but figured it was just from a 'Mainer's' spelling dictionary.   Aya.

[Philip Smith]

Ray,

The original pattern was carved from balsa foam. then molded RTV. The blocks are two flat castings, 45ed on the outside corner, CA ed together, crack filled with magic sculp, making one veneer block. what you see is resin castings. I do stuff the old fashioned way, taking the long hard road

http://www.americanfoamtech.com/balsafoam/craftideas.asp
FYI:

Since Balsa-Foam has no "memory" or rebound, it will hold an impression. This means that you can create many different types of surface detail by simply pressing the appropriate object into the surface. Surface texture can be enhanced using a tool to make impressions. The rounded end of a thin paint brush handle, for example quickly dents the foam for a brown stone surface effect. If you need a specially shaped rectangular, triangular or odd-shaped hole, consider carving the positive counterpart for a piece of wood. This technique, which is unique to Balsa-Foam, can save a lot of time on repeating detail. Balsa-Foam III is too hard to impress easily, but the right metal tools can make effective small impressions.