Hello guys,
The range serie 20 and 30 was launched in the 70' and was different from the Us range 20. These models were more suitable with the european habbits. John Deere took the control of Lanz in Germany à 1960 to enter the european market.
I use to live in a farm in the 70' and the 80' so I decide to show a classical scene with a tractor and a manure speader close to a shed before work.
This is my latest project at the 1/32 scale. For the moment, that scale is my main scale concerning farm subjects because of the available number of items for european stuff.
The base is a Schuco John Deere 3120, a german model made for Europe and this can be recognize by the round fenders. So, this model is a bit rough and poorly detailled and, by the way, the front axle is reaaly awful. So, get out ! It will be replace by a kit (axle and wheels).
First step, dismantle to keep the main frame with the casted fenders, the rear wheels and the linkage. Due to the fact that is a toy, the paint is very thick and ''strong'' and has to stay in a box of aceton for a while to be able to remove the entire coat of paint. The seat, the linkage, the steering and borad are made with plastic so I keep them as they are. A thin coat ot paint will be enough.
I use Tamiya primer to start the model. For the first time, I pre-shade all the panels separatly to have a idea of what I learnt all about before. By the way, it is my first steps in airbrushing paint as well.
To be sure of the color, I take the paint from a spray can into the airbrush but I was not sure of the thinner to use with. Stupid mistake ! No way to mix the paint and the thinner ... Completetly out of order. More than one hour to clean the airbrush, and my hands ... That's the way to learn !
So, I try some Citadel paint and it works better than I was expecting. Two thin coats of green paint to keep the shades.
Here as some shots. Fell free for any comments. Georges
After the first coat of Tamiya primer
The whole parts are ready for paint. It was suppose to add a rops on the fenders as it was so common in France but I like the tractors without any rops or cab. So, no rops !
I add a protection on the front of the hood. This one is made with Evergreen and will be fitted after with two more lights. This stuuf was always fitted in case of using a front hydraulic loader from any king of damaged when approching a trailer. By the way, it's a good detail for this JD.
I realize the long decals on Photoshop as before and add some new advertising decals. It was fashion to ''decorate'' the hoods with some stickers in the 80' : that was a good way for advertising. There wera about famous radios, nightclubs, oil or gas companies, ... So, each side gets its ones as well and it brakes the green color. They've been print on ink waterslide sheet. It works quite well if you don't forget to lay a coat of satin varnish to prevent from any damage when damp.
the hood is on the bench.
Good progress. -- Russ
After painting the whole parts, I start to apply the first coats of rust. I choose different colours from Citadel : Scortched brown, Bubonic Yellow, Dark flesh and Hull red from Tamiya. The yellow simulates the manufacturer primer color. All worw has been made by different sponges because I didn't practiced in that time the salt or the hair spray techniques (the tractor has been paint between February and April). Since, I learn about these two techniques so some new projects will be shown in the early future.
several coats of rusty colour are necessary to create a realistic model. It seems to be a bit rough in the begenning but after some fading layers of filters, the effects become ''more mixed''. I like the sponge technique but it's harder to control exactly compare to the HS technique. They can be complementary. After reading many topics on this forums, I have try to follow the good advices as working panel after panel instead of working several parts on the same time. So, I start by the fenders to train. The effects are quite easy to show on the frame corners and the constrast is interesting as it is on a real model.
the yellow covering is so bad on the green paint that I need to deal with two or three coats to represent a good contrast. Some masks are used to protect some areas to subtle tha frame.
The most rusty and used areas are the footrests. By the way, all the parts around the seat are painted as well. The board has been paint before with grey panzer because the real black paint always fades and turns to grey and white. Nice contrast.
Some more details as the rear reflectors are done after masking the fenders. I make a hole with a Punch and Die. A coat of metallic grey before a coat of Clear red from Tamiya.
A short step for a contrasting effect.
That's looking good. The sponge technique may not be "cutting edge" but the results are reasonably effective.
Looking good .. and it looks like you're having fun! :)
Thanks guys for your comments.
I agree that the sponge technique is a bit old-fashionned but in February, it was just the only technique that I was able to practice for this project and I decided to try the HS on the spreader in April. So to the question : having fun ? the answer is between salt and pepper ...
I was rather confident about the final result despite the lack of color differences with the sponge. After several dabs, I couldn't get back and have to go further and I think that it's work quite well. If I knew the HS technique at this time, I would have try it of course.
The hood has taken more precision because of its particular shape compare to the rear linkage. It's really rough in the beginning ! Same operation for the hood protection. I finish with the grey paint to simulate the iron unpainted. By the way, I realize the hydraulic levers for the front loader. It's made with Evergreen and wires for hoses. Somes levers have been added around the seat : accelerator, seat ajustment, linkage control, pto, ... and the gear levers of course.
Meanwhile, I start the loader bracket. It is made with two frames bolted on both side of the chassis. Usely, all the tractors in the 70' have some disposal with screwed holes where loaders or other implements could be fitted. John Deere was a pionner by their pararel chassis (I mean two long drilled flat plates) where it's easy to mount anything.
This JD will be with the bracket only (no loader) and the cylinders stay on when the loeder is removed. These loaders were very common in France in the 70' and 80'. Red color and sponge for rusty and using operations.
The rear parts are glued on the back as the red lights.
Before fitting the wheels, I apply on the corners Gunmetal pigments / MIG where the wearing is typical.
Here's a rough sketch of the future brackets. Just enough to start the building. It measures around 3,5 feet tall in reality.
It's looking surprising good for self admitted "low-tech" techniques. And it is already beginning to leave its Diecast heritage behind.
Must admit though I'm struggling to get past that violent apple green!! - any chance you could check your camera settings or reduce the colour saturation??
Other than that small matter............... way to go.
You're right Andi. When I took the pictures with my new camera, I couldn't cope with all the new settings and many pictures are a bit saturated. The forthcoming ones are less oversaturated but the project is now over. But for the new projects I will take some more care about it.
The green John Deere is really bright when it's new but I fade it after with several filters (green olive, green citrus, light grey from Prince August paints).
Despite the quality of the casting, the global shape is rather correct but it's a toy. So, I have to add some more details.
The two sides of the main bracket are made with Evergreen sheets and tubes for the cylinders. The red colour is a very common color for loaders because usualy produced by independant suppliers.
Some decals of different brands are applied on both side as the security decals in the same time. On the right side, two fittings with couplers are added to allow the loader to be remove.
Same paint technique for these parts and some scraches are ''drawed'' with a small round brush and acrylic paint from Citadel.
The axles are made with 0,8 mm round Evergreen styrene rod, and the holes are about 0,3mm for cotter pins.
That has turned out awesome. I look forward to more.
Beautiful work, very impressive weathering!
Those red things turned out rather nicely. -- Russ
Thanks guys for your comments.
The two barckets are supposed to be bolted on ecach side of the tractor frame so to represent the blots, All the bolts are made with styrene rods. Since, I have bought the Hexagonal Punch and Die and it's easier to make bolts.
This tractor needs some more details as wires, lights, toolbox, hydraulic hoses. And 1/32 scale is quite small nad for many times, I use to reajust my glasses ...
The rear working light is made with strass for clothes, metal sheet for the fitting and an handle is added as well.
The toolbox is made with a piece of metal : just one piece for the box and one piece for the top. Tools are from 1/35 Verlinden kit.
A licence plate fitting will be added by the way.
The one euro coin has the same size as a quarter dollar coin.
I see they make those GIANT pennies/coins in other country's currency!
Great stuff!
The toolbox is perfect!
-Mj
That tool box is great. This is coming together nicely.
The hinges are from Verlinden. The box is less than 0,39 inche long by 0,19 inche large. Little stuff but great effect on the tractor when finished !
The rear light takes place on the right fender. The licence plate fitting iw made with metal and the numbers are dry transfert decals from an old brand, Mecanorma. These are very difficult to find in France now but some librairies still have a display with theses sheets. The fonts are quite old as Helvetica, Futura, ... By the way, they will be used for buildings and are quite easy to be scraped as old paint on the walls.
How to build models is clear to me, I do indeed, but how you made this giant models of the coins.
Class model, only the hinge of the tool is actually very safe subsidy, and durable.
Try getting to work with soldered pipe sections, for example, injection needles I use.
Otherwise, congratulations and I'm looking forward to the sequel.
Wonderful work, very inspiring.
Albeit the brackets look very simply, more than 31 pieces of Evergeen have been necessary to realize the left one and 44 pieces for the right one. They're really to be fittied on the tractor frame. The breakforce of this kind of loader was around one ton and the average lift height was about 3 or 3,20 meters. In the beginning, the bucket control was only ''mechanical'' instead of beeing hydraulic because the hydraulic pump capacity was too much limited.
The cylinders are one way action and just need one hydraulic hose.
This is the first way out from the shed. The hood is fitted on the frame and the wheels as well. I choose a different shape for the front tires as it was usually because of the damages of a too frequent loader using.
I use the Lifecolor Rust and Dust set to paint the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe. Sponge and brush have worked well. Some pigments from Mig achieve the weathering operations.
The hoses take their final place and the hydaulic controls take place on the right side of the seat. The exhaust pipe is fitted for ajustment before fitting definitively. The red petrol cap gives some more contrast.
The grille guard is fitted on the frame and all the light are connected with copper wires and painted. The glass of the left main light is missing : the owner that this one is missing and the new glass is in the box. But time is missing for repair ....
Looks like some really nice detailing and good finishes there ... but I've got to ask if you're doing something to "process" the photos or punch-up the colors there. It seems like the colors are really "vivid" in a way that distracts from the modeling ... like a little too much Fujichrome (for those that remember such things). No insult intended ... and maybe it's just me, but it looks like some nice modeling that could benefit from some slight changes in the photo handling. (And, if it's just me, please ignore and disregard!) -- Dallas
Dallas, here it is de-saturated a bit. Some good work there!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages112.fotki.com%2Fv494%2Fphotos%2F2%2F1709102%2F9661358%2Ftractor-vi.jpg&hash=ad99554799a2bfb03c22eb593ca555303e7ffeb6)
Thanks Ed for make it better. Don't apologize Dallas. I'm wrong and I make a really stupid mistake. I blame my camera but in fact, I didn't catch the right point !
I didn't realized how important is to keep the character of a model or a scene. When I exposed this diorama a few weeks ago, visitors said that this tractor wasn't as bright as it was showed through a topic on a french forum. And that it looks more realistic. It seems to be obvious but the pictures show the opposite. Maybe it's because to sell to many brand new farm implements everyday (that's what I do !!!).
I understand the meaning of creating a whole project through modeling, painting, weathering operations, telling stories, ... Taking pictures and catching all the feelings is as important as doing all these stuffs. Need to learn more ! and to be more observant.
So, here are some new pictures of the John Deere. Ok, Dallas, no more ''vivid'' fittings, just natural. Just like it is.
Feel free for any comments or any advices. Georges
The loader brackets are fixed definitively and a arch between these two parts is added to give some more strength and rigidity. All the details as the toolbox, rear light, clutch and brakes pedals, left footstep, ... take their right place.
The beacon light has replaced the ''D'' sign (for Danger) that was fitted since the 60'. The turning light appeared in the 80' to prevent from a longer distance.
An elastic strap takes the control the lateral float of the two linkage arms that usually hit the wheels when running. A bale string stands the three point hitch to be ready for attchment operations.
The rear has been weathered with oil paint and Grease from Mig. Some attention has been given to the discolorationthe as green color turning to turquoise, white and yellow citrus. I use Pigments fixer to maintain the pigments on the spots.
Great model! ;D
My only concern is the tyres are too clean!
-Marty
This is a wonderful piece of modelling and I think that your tractor is right up there with Chuck's .
The baling twine is an excellent touch .
I am inclined to agree that it could do with a bit of mud . But not too much .
Nick
Satisfactory. -- Russ
Very impressive work! Yes, the natural colors look better. Great details.
Excellent! I love the weathering and all the extra details.
thanks guys for your kind words. Here are some more shots of the right side of the John Deere. More details on the side through the hydraulic valves and controls close to the steering wheel and the optionnal hydraulic line.
Get some fun to paint the exhaust pipe with Dust and Rust Lifecolor set : primer, black, rust with sponge (yes again, ...), pigments (rust, brown, and black smoke). Maybe some more mud on wheels. Why not ?
So, this first part of the project is reaching the end and it's time to find a conclusion. Despite this ''low-tech'' technique, the sponge is not the best way for a complete project but I was so confident and scared during the process. Some steps have to be ''ajust'' when, for example, I put too much acrylic paint. The other paint is the fact that the main frame is quite heavy compare to the added Evergreen parts. Quite hard to handle, need a glove to paint, ... First time in using oil filters and pigments. In fact, a real first huge stuff !!
Otherwise, not easy to cope with the real tractor on some details : it's hard to find 1/32 kits or parts representing real parts so you need to built everything. Especially when you don't get the goods tools to realize hydraulic valves, pedals, ...
I'm glad that you appreciate it.
This king of modeling and painting is new in France and there's no way to follow for learning for the moment. I get some inspiration from your topics so keep them detailled with pictures !!! We're just two or three for the whole country.
For the second part, the forthcoming pictures will show you the manure spreader building process. it's gonna be longer because it's a real ''100 % hand-made model''.
... to be continued ...
The indication lights on the fenders were paint in aluminium silver / Prince August and a coat of Clear Orange from Tamiya.
For the next rusty projects, I will try to give more texture to the rust and chipping paint. I've got to work on this. Georges
Wonderful job with the detailing and new painting techniques! The "realistic" photo colors are definitely much better for your (model) tractors. ;) -- Dallas
Hi Bill76, this is very nice, the weathering and extra details you have added have breathed life into it. I think you have captured the character of the real subject, and a subject that is well used always has more character.
In my opinion the sponge effect has worked better here than hairspray. The hairspray technique gives a scratched effect as by mechanical damage, where as the sponge used here replicates rust breaking through paint deteriated by age. I hope you don't mind but my only suggetsion would be, I think a little dried mud on the tyres would look even better.
Marvelous!
Cheers
Maybe, you're right John. The sponge technique has given a good result. It might because it was the only thing that I was able to do !!!!
Now, I'm gonna show the building of the spearder and this one is a 100% hand made except the wheels.
It's based on the spreader I used to work with during several years. It's about 5 tonnes loading capacity ans is made to be pulled with a 50 / 60 hp tractor.
Compared to oldest units, it's all steel (bed and dropsides) and completely welded in one part. Before the bed and the sides were made with wood.
So, the main frame has a V shape made with two long U rails and smaller size U rails to join these two rails. This building gives a good rigidity even loaded.
The model is made with Evergreen styrene sheets and rods.
The axle takes place below the V frame and needs some reinforcements. On the real spreader, every part is welded but on the model, I've to reinforce many assemblies to give some strenght.
The brakes are added with the cables (electric wire) and the handle. Two pices od metal will allowed the lights cable to wind up when parked in the shed. The front ring is brass rod.
Here is the spreader on its wheels with a rotating parking jack under the drawbar that can cope with rugged gravel roads. No major difficulties for this first part of the process. Just need to be sure of the good gluing operations.
Netx step : the flat bed structure.
Georges.
I start the trailer base with the flat bed and the sides with two long rails and six rails that will be fitted at right angles to strengh the whole assembly.
Two decks are made with the same rail shape that will hold the V frame. Some reinforcements will be added to make just one solid part.
I use "board and Batten 4543" Evergreen sheet for each side and it's give some goods details.
Three posts are glued as on the real model to avoid any bending in the middle when the spreader is fully loaded. On the front side, the post is taller than the other because a front grille will be fitted. This wire netting (mesh ?) prevents any discharge of manure on the tractor when the beater is turning while spreading. It's about one meter higher than the base side. The sides could have been done with wood because it was quite common for manumacturers to use wood before using iron sheets.
Bed and sides are ready for assembly operation.
The flat bed is around 3,6 meters long and by 1,80 meter large. Below the apron, two shafts take place in the front and at the back. The tractor needs a PTO that provides power to the rear gear drive though a long driveline shaft. The rear shaft is controled by the gear drive. This one transfers torque to sprockets fitted on each side of the shaft. the log chain links fit into these sprockets. The manure is pulled from the front to the back and needs a lot of power when the manure is heavy and wet. The chain links are made fro heavy duty conditions. The front shaft is ''free'' and works as a guite for the two log chains.
Not easy to built these very small sprockets. Every part needs to be drilled to fix each detail.
The rear side is made with two beaters : the upper one is for the main work and the smaller one is to spread the manure going under the upper drum and the apron.
The axle drum is about 5 inches and the "teeth" are 9 inches. The steel teeth are welded on the drum as a screw starting in the middle to each side. That's allowed more efficiency and constant torque.
I start the building with the central drum and ad the teeth. Long and ''weak'' assemble so be careful when handled. The whole parts are Evergreen styrene.
This king of beater shape was very common in the 70' to compe with the 45 / 55 hp tractors. Soonly, drums have to be heavy to give some more torque when spreading strawy, hay-laced and packed manure.
The little beater was able to deal with the remaining manure and prevented from splashed packs.
The beaters need some reinforcements on the last teeth to avoid any kinds of damage when the chain conveyor loads the manure out. Nowadays, all the speaders have conic box and not rectangular so when the manure is going to the back, the normal flow is not obstructed.
The spreading system is equipped by a third part : the upper rake. This provides more uniform spreading of extra loads of strawy manure. It prevents large chunks from being carried over the main beater.
Otherwise, this rake prevents from stone drops when loaded by accident. That's why the tines are not on the same line.
Wow! Neat construction of some complicated little bits (the attachments or tools) ... and the trailer looks good too! ;) -- Dallas
Excellent work. Bill fits right in here .. :)
Fascinating! I'm learning about farm equipment as well as modeling!
Thanks guys. Glad to know that you learn some farm subject.
The box is put on the V frame. The frame is not parallel to the flat box because the hitch of the tractor is rather low while the bed of the trailer has to be parallel to the ground. The front side of the spreader needs some attention and strength. A special casing is square bended between the main frame and the bed. A central ball bearing is tighten with four bolts and its end is splined and will received the sliding transmisstion shaft.
This part is made with metal and the bearing is made with Evergreen. Bolts are building thanks to Punch and Die Hexagonal.
The main driveline shaft is fitted on the gearcase on the left side of the corner. A middle bearing is needed to avoid any bending action when turning. Usually, this bearing was made in wood as oak because it was maintenanceless. In fact, the bearing was in two shells and no grease was needed.
Two flat rails will guide the chain conveyor when spreading. The other use is to carry the heavy weight of the conveyor as well. The two chains are about 7 meters longs and the links have one centimeter section.
The gear case is bolted on the left side and will lead the conveyor wheel flow, the main beater and the lower beater. A rugged chain (pintle chain ? if someone can translate it ! ) assures the powerful drive even when spreading bulks of packed manure. The chain tensionner was made with wood and can be ajusted by a simple bolt.
The conveyor works by jerky movement through an excentric wheel and a spring sprocket. A lever can increase or reduce the speed advencement.
A protective cover will be installed on this side.
The wheels have been taken from a toy and all parts are made with Evergreen of different shapes. The brass shafts are on their definive fittings. The building operation has been quite hard to be able to handle all the pieces with only two poor hands ...
The upper rake gives a very important rigidity for the spreading system.
The box is glued firmly. The front chassis is ready for wire mesh.
The spreader shows its panties !!!
Kiki the Walker is ready for a wheel sacrifice !!
The PTO sliding shaft is made with Evergreen. It's not articulated and will stayed on its parking position.
The wheel drive system will be protected from manure trash with a total shielding. It's all hinged to open wide for easy servicing maintenance. A cotter pin assures the locking when using.
This part of the building has been the most difucult and really put me under pressure !!!!!
I've bought these chains in a cheap jewelry and choose the ''flat shape'' chain instead the traditionnal shape as log chain. This suits well and will slide along a pad wear. This pad is in the corner between the apron and the vertical side. It prevents for a too early wear.
I cut the chains at the good length and add some flat Evergreen parts. About 14 U rods will be fitted on these flats. This building was so light that I needed to put the parts on their right place for ten thousands times !!! This has taken more than three hours to make it right. After that, three more hours have been necessary to put the conveyor on the bed. Slave work !!
This has all been a very stinky subject; or eventually will be.......has anyone mentioned that? ;D ;D
Excellent work down to the minute details. Now where do we find cows of that scale to test it out?
Your fabrication has been excellent. I really enjoy watching the subassemblies take shape. -- Russ
The box has been assembled and the overall shape becomes to look like a spreader. Two corners rods give more strength to the central bearing. On the back side, the beaters are fitted with strong ball bearings to cope with the heavy duty torque.
In the 70' and 80', french farmers started to get their own implements to deal with the increasing farm sizes and the lack of labor force. Due to the cost of this trailer, they needed to use as much as possible to make some profit on. So, the spreaders were able to do other haulages than manure.
That was the beginning of corn silage as well and just a few trailers manufacturers were able to sell equipments to carry this new ''load''. Farmers started to realize their own ''home-made'' dropsides to get more volume with the basis spreader. They added U rails and corrugated irons to build the sides. Usually, the front side was made with wire mesh as the back side. The back was articulated and hinged up on the rear rails.
The spreading system was just bolted to be remove to let the back side opened. This operation was able thanks to a front hydraulic loader or a chain hoist.
The chain conveyor stayed on the flatbed and put off the silage when using the PTO. It took about 5 minutes to clean out the trailer.
The dropsides are about 50 centimeters high and 3,60 meters long.
By the way, the usually fork on the front loader measured 1 meter large by 80 centimeters high. The length of the tines were around 80 centimeters long. Between 12 and 14 full forks were needed to fill the spreader.
A view of the right side of the rear back. This part of the system just holds the beater bearing. Bolds are from Punch and Die.
It sometimes happens that we load some stones from the barn and the damages could be important.
The driving wheels will take place on the left.
Claas has been the first manufacturer in France to launch the self propelled harvesters. It was in 1973. These machines were able to cope with 2 ou 3 rows and used Mercedes engines. The cab was an option and the grass header as well.
That is sure a darn fine poop slinger!
Great step by step photos too!
Thanks for taking the time to chronicle the construction.
-Marty
"Darn fine poop slinger". I like that description. -- Russ
Very nice!
It is amazing to me how much you are building from styrene.
Congratulations.
Hi Bill, nice work mate.
Thanks for following this project.
I think that some times it's easier to built a model than doing a conversion. That's what I did before for implements. With the measures, it's a bit longer but the result might be better and realistic. That's what I am looking for.
For the cows ? well, difficult to find some good figures of animals. 1/32 scale farm subjects is changing and new supplies are coming even if the quality can be discussed. Nothing comparable with military items. Still have to wait. Only Preiser can delever some figures that need to be detailled and re-painted for a realistic aspect.
So no cows on this diarama. For a next project, maybe.
This satanic machine seems to give you some lyric inspiration. I would be interested in some new descriptions as Marty did. So, give your ideas !
The box is now fitted definitively on the main frame except the chain conveyor and the left side cover.
The only step is to sand different parts of the trailer as the corners and the joins. Two threaded rods are added on the front side as tensionners for the chains. Due to the high torque when spreading heavy loads, the chains slacken and need to be tighten. A bolt is tighten on this thread rod to maintain this position until the next ajustment.
The wire mesh is fitted on its chassis.
Next step : a good shower with soap and warm water before primer coat.
As you can see, the box is on the wheels and not between the wheels. This is the main difference between the american design and the european design.
In the 30' and 40', the american spreaders were trailed by horses : a wheel drive system was assured by the wheels and the operator pulled and pushed tha control stick to connect or disconnect the system.
When the first tractors arrived, there was no PTO so the geardrive was still using the wheels. By the way, the lift capacity of the front loader was pretty low and the trailer needed to be low as well. That's one of the reasons that made manufacturers to launch trailers that have the box bolted on the wheels axle directly. The box is the frame. It's a good way to tight the price and to design a very simple machine. This design is still updated on many new american machines as spearders for manure and slurry. Its reliable.
In opposition, european manufacturers prefered to get their spreaders higher for dealing with the narrow roads. This is still our main problem. I used to work for a soil implement manufacturer and every new project is a challenge with the new laws. We have to cope with very strict decrees as not to be larger than 3,5 meters and higher than 4,5 meters so it is quite difficult to realize a big equipment as a 40 feet wide cultivator with these obligatory measures.
The laws are the same for the trailers even if we have to deal with tha weight : a machine can't be louder than 11 tonnes (11000 kilograms) per axle.
Quickly, tractors were equipped with a PTO and a rear hitch to be able to handle tools as plows and mounted chisels / cultivators. The spreaders took avantages of this new features so new designs appeared during the 60'.
After the second World War, the country has been ruined and the farm equipment was really weak. Through the Marschall Plan, lots of americans tractors and implements were delivered to start a new agriculture, more mechanical with less labor force unfortunatly. These news unknown materials have been a real revolution. The sole way to put the fiels back in crops production. The last thirty years have been really innovative in terms of power, performance, width of machines, ... And now GPS and autoguided systems have entered the farm market.
Now farmers can rely on this new technology for seeding or fertilizing without touching the steering wheel, operating with the five or six hydraulic valves needed by the rear machines. A good level in electronics or computers is needed to be able to drive a tractor or a combine. That's the way it goes now !
Georges
This thread has really blown me away with the quality of the workmanship aswell as the interesting info that you are providing.
Where did you get that meshing for the front of the trailer?
Very nice!
Thank you guys.
I have grap this meshing from my ''boite à rabiot'' and it is a electric shaver. It's very hard to cut and this needs a Xuron scissors. The close net suits well with the scale 1/32.
Bill,
I still wonder how you get these tiny styrene bits fixed ... do you use CA glue, actone ... or else?
Cheers
I use Zap-A-Gap (CA+) from Pacer (cyanocylate) and Liquid Poly from Humbrol. The frsi one leaves some glossy maks that need samding operations. I use the second one to simulate rough iron as thick sheet of iron. I lay a coat of Liquid Poly, let it dry then sand. Some scratches with a Dremel tool can be aplly as well. I follow the same technique that military builders use for armoured tanks.
The next purchase will probably be a milling machine and a lathe. Cutting Evergreen with a scapel is hard and the results can be better for good ajustments and to produce parts at right angles. I'm looking for the proxxon range rather than the Unimat range.
Some fittings need to be realize as it is in real and it's a good way to be sure of the strengh and rigidity. So, on the trailer, some parts are fitted with a styrene rod inside as on the cylinders because glue is not enough.
This first model in styrene has been a real challenge for the building and the painting.
Just for information, the ''boite à rabiot'' is the box where where you leave the remaining parts of kits. It's a pretty cool french expression !
Quote from: Bill76 on July 17, 2012, 09:06:01 AM
I use Zap-A-Gap (CA+) from Pacer (cyanocylate) and Liquid Poly from Humbrol.
... ah ... thanks for feedback
Quote from: Bill76 on July 17, 2012, 09:06:01 AM
Cutting Evergreen with a scapel is hard and the results can be better for good ajustments and to produce parts at right angles. I'm looking for the proxxon range rather than the Unimat range.
... for cutting (0-45°) - even styrene - I use a Boehler circular saw:
http://www.gw-werkzeuge.de/boehler4.htm (http://www.gw-werkzeuge.de/boehler4.htm)
Cheers
Beautiful assembly work! All the details ... right down to the little jack stand on the hitch ... fantastic. -- Dallas
@Gerald : Proxxon has a circular saw in its range and seems to be perfect for styrene and brass.
@Dallas : This jack is very impotant when the trailer has to be hitch off in the field and the manure is outside. How many times did I stack stones and pieces of wood and the trailer felt down ? Too many times ...
So, there are the first shots of the spreader painted.
The primer coat is a grey panzer color from Tamiya. A good way to prevent from any remaining flaw.
This is my first test with hair spray technique with a airbrush. Not really confident at the beginning. Tha main spot has been to undertsand the process and how to control. Even if I spent many times to read on it, this has been a real challenge after a delicate building.
The final result is to create some effects made with mechanical scraches and wear use with the loaded conveyor.
After grey color, I apply a layer of HS from a spray can directly. I try to control the flow in the corner to be able to work as I want.
Then, a coat of rust color from Citadel and Tamiya acrylics paint. Scaring moment ! Take some warm water and various brushes. Because of my carefully test, thinks get harder that I was expecting and a a strongh brush has been necessary to scrap the paint. No chipping but scratches only. The main thing has been to handle fermely the spreader during this step.
Next step is the real primer color and I choose a yellow from Lifelocor. The layer is thicker to cover the previous darken color. And for a chipping effect, I lay down HS twice. The result is amazing and surprising. I change for a soft round brush and no particular difficulty to remove the color except to grap all the ''trashes'', I mean the removed paint. I notice that has to be done very quickly before it dried completely.
The main color is a bleu that I call ''bleu pétrole''. I compare the real spreader with a Pantone chart and the best acrylic colors are from Citadel.
The pantone references are :
- blue : bleu 18-4525 carribean sea ;
- yellow : 7548.
So if you have this Pantone chart, you could have a look on this incredible colors.
This blue is airbrushed after a new coat of HS and the final effects can be created in the box.
It's time to paint the entire box. Same colors but as I wasn't confident in the HS technique, I decided to use the sponge for weathering operations even if it should have work. Several layers of blue paint have been necessary to give a good coverage and this color is very deep and stunnig. Before weathering, the trailer has stayed on my desk durinf a couple of weeks ! I've been hypnotize by these attractive color scheme.
The whole spreader is paint in one way, frame and box separately. It would easier to follow the using process afterwards.
Front loaders on tractors could be consider as one of the best revolution to cope with the lack of labor force. I mean that a farmer could cope with all type of work on a farm as handling bales, soil, using fock pallets, ...
In the first models, the main bracket was a single arm on the right side and Farmall was promoting this asymetric shape but competitors haven't follow this building. Quickly, a symetric bracket with two arms around the hood becomes to be the unique way to cope with the increasing demand for stronger loaders. Today, this shape is still available even for 300 hp tractors .
Georges,
Some fine paint work. The weathering will bring out the realism to this model. Oh, and don't forget the left over manure. ;D
The spreader paints are from Citadel : Hawk turquoise and Yellow golden. For the weathering, I choose other colors from Citadel as Bubonic Brown for the used primer, Dark Flesh and Scorched Brown for rust. To add some more colors, I have use dark grey for iron and the paints from the Rust and Dust / Lifecolor.
All the work is made with a sponge because I though it should have been easier. Finally, I'm not sure ! It takes me a long time to achieve the whole trailer. Filters will be applied to fade the main colors.
@Dave : this spreader will be quite clean because it's just getting out from the shed. The chain conveyor needs some repair and a step at the workbench is necessary. So it might be clean ! So, no remaining manure on the spreader. Just some marks.
The hitch gets some tires marks when the driver is turning too tight in the corner. That's happens very often with two wheel tractors. By the way, a tight bend is never good for the transmission shaft as well.
Looking good!
The tyres are a dead giveaway though!
-Marty
This is looking very good so far.
Just before some shots, a few words concerning the modulation color. I try this technique but I've been ''too shy'' in the coloration. I should highlight more from light blue to dark blue. On each side, I lay some thin coats of light blue but it seems that this technique should be more marked . I learn a topic on Adam Wilder's project, I though it was to much but in fact, this aspect needs to be very bold as the weathering operations faded it after.
The weathering process is still going on with some layers of filters from Mig productions (dark wash, Rust, ...). Soil pigments are mixed with Tamiya paints then blow from a round brush with my airbrush. It creates a very dirty and realistic effect that contrasts with the blue paint. A dark filter is applied in all the corners, and there are lot of corners !
The wheel drive system needs some grease (Mig production) but I think that using oil paint should be better.
The chain conveyor is fitted and weathered.
The main problem of this spreader was the limited spreading width that is around 2,5 meters. So to cover 2 acres, too many round-trips were needed. Manufacturers began to look for a system that could spread on a larger width. The solution has been to replace the two horizontal beaters by two of four vertical beaters and the width was able to reach up to 8 meters in one way. Nowadays, most of the newest spreaders have vertical beaters to cope with the needs od preserving the soil compaction due to heavy trailers and tractors. Between 10 and 15 meters is a common width. Electronics is on the trailer to control the conveyor speed, the groos tonnage to spread and the ''quality'' of the manure. The trailer is able to weight the manure and to ajust the speed for a constant quantity. The spreading operations are very strict because of environment laws especially when your fields are in rainy countries or sloppy hills.
I live in a country that used to be quite temperated and wet (1 meter of rain per year) near the Atlantic Ocean. In spring or autumn, it's sometimes difficult to fing a dry period for spreading stuff and it's hard to control the rain flows and rivers have been polluted. Because massives uncontroled abuses, the coast is invaded with toxic seagrass and there is absolutly no way to stop this disaster. During the summer months, the beaches are green and it's smells very bad along the coast. A lot of money is needed to pay firms to clean the sand with trucks and loaders. To prevent from intoxication, some beaches are closed.
A dramatic picture of the modern tourism !!
Next step, the wheels and the accessories. Georges
I have used the Mig "oil" and artists oils.
For grease the artists oils are better due to their thickness.
black and brown as grease is not black unless very worn out.
-Marty
You're right Marty and only oil paint can create a capillary effect.
Last step for the trailer. I just ad wood extensions on each side with limewood. Several coats of thinned Charadon Granite (Citadel) are applied to weather them.
The chain conveyor is assembled and the cover as well. The transmission shaft takes its place on a "parking position".
Next stage, the diorama. Georges
The tyres look much better! ;D
The overall condition looks spot on for a newer but well used piece.
That chain; I wonder how long it would stay blue though?
On the diorama are you going to model the manure?
-Marty
Tyres are drybrushed with several acrylic colors but even if the rubber is quite nice, I will paint it them black/dark grey next time. It should have a better look.
Beautiful work during construction, painting, and weathering. My hat is off to you, Bill.
Bill Martinsen
The chain has to be wear with some Gunmetal and dark grey. The scene will take place near a workshop before working. The spreader has spent some rest in the barn during winter and spring, it needs some attention that's why it's gonna be rather clean.
Manure and soil is a challenge that I should have try but I change my mind !! Maybe for a next project ... with a loader fitted on another tractor.
The process will follow.
All the accessories take their palce as the electric wire for the rear lights, the direction lights, and the triangle signs.
The shield has been interesting to paint by mixing acrylics and oils as for the rusty drips.
The rear sidde is of course the main used part of the spreader. The sticker gives some contrast on the face panel of the cover. It was very common in the 70' and the 80' to put advertising on farm machines.
A shot to view the inside.
Georges.
And the last one.
Excellent job Georges!!!
8)
Stunning stuff. Now lets see it with the tractor.
Thank you guys for your comments.
A picture of tractor and the trailer to satisfy your impatience ...
The workshop will look like my grand-father's one. He made it in the 50' with oak planks and corrugated iron. There was a workbaench where I started modeling with wood and got a real small farm with seeding and harvesting operations. Crazy stuff for a kid to get a farm at the same scale ! Each time I saw a tractor and an implement working in the area, I came back with a lot of ideas for modeling. No way for my grand dad to keep nails in the box ... Always empty ! And many machines on my farm.
I use limewood for its hardness rather than balsa wood that it is too soft and not easy to paint.
The scene has a diagonal axle to give a dynamical effect though the size is quite small (21 x 29 centimeters). The planks need some scrapes to look older and wear by the typical wet conditions so the lower ends are really damaged and need more weathering effets as moss. The main structure is made with 5 x 5 mm section beams and glue with wood glue. No difficulties for that.
Charadon Granite (Citadel)) is applied in several layers and different dark colors for the splits (acrylic paints).
The oil manufacturers signs are made with styrene sheets and the decals are just weathered. One is missing on the wall but stand out near where it felt.
Pallets are made with different sizes of wood at the european normalized size. Chains and sheets of metal will complete the nearest stuff around the workshop. Ready for painting.
A good training session for painting wood, styrene, metal and a good way to learn new effects as the HS technique on the oil drum. Not perfect for the first shot but it will work.
Very nice work Georges! Very inspirational.
Having spent quite some times around tractors and their machinery when I was young, this brings back memories.
Thanks a lot and I am looking forward to your progress on the shed.
Excellent work! The tractor and trailer look great together!
The shed is ended and becomes a messy place !
The ground is made with sand and gravels glued. Afterwards, I paint the entire diorama in matt black from a spray can. Then, I paint the gdifferent ground colors and the stones close to the shed. It's really funny to make life coming from darkness.
Close-up on the front side of the grand-father's shed. As you said Marc, nice back memories ... But the shed is still on the spot !
Nice detail. And the finish reminds me of the style of Marcel Ackle. -- Russ
Looks good!
Last run to finish.
Two more pictures of the John Deere tractor.
And the ultimate one. Georges
Vary nice, Georges.
I hope you had a chance to look at the photo of the day.... a very appropriate picture that will interest you.
Well done!
Turned out great!
Whats next?
-Mj
Very nice - inspiration for all - just keep em coming
Barney
Wonderful, Georges.
Thank you guys for your comments and for following the process.
This diarama has been the first and a fully project with a conversion and a scratchbuilt project, as the painting techniques as well.
The next projects should concern tracked tractors : a Track Marshall (Scaledown Models 1/32) and a Caterpillar Cat D4C (Wespe 1/32). Despite the overall quality of the resin kit, the Caterpillar needs a very hard work to reshape some parts and in adding a lot of new details on tha blade, the driving platform and a canopy will be fitted. Thanks John for inspiration !
The Track Marshall is already done because it has been painted before the John Deere with the sponge technique and this project will be published in a farm french magazine in September.
The Caterpillar project will be completed by a 1/32 car, a Pontiac GTO 1968. First car on the workbench in a Mad Max style !
After that, another tracked tractor based on a New Holland machine from Ros. This one will be rebuilt to cope with a futuristic diorama that will take some inspiration from Terminator and Matrix. Lot of work to do !
See you shortly. Georges
A truly lovely little scene, with all the parts wonerfully executed. I really like all the varied finishes an colors. Was grat watching this all come together.
The only real issue I have, is still with the oversaturation of the images....at least on my monitors.
Thanks Marc. You're right about some oversaturated pictures. I've changed fewer fittings on my camera and things seem to be better and more realistic. I still have to deal with my studio and new lights in a ''white box''. That will be done maybe in September now.
For the already done Track Marshall pictures, I will use Photoshop to minimize the oversaturated effects.
Georges.