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Engine shed

Started by hguent2003, April 09, 2010, 04:45:49 AM

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hguent2003

As requested I will show here the steps taken to build my engine shed. It is a shed for my french narrow gauge layout in the scale 1:45 (0e).

The pictures of the doors shown here are showing the first version of this engine shed with walls made of slaters embossed plasticard. The longer I looked at the walls the less I was pleased with the result. So I decided to make new walls.

I started with a piece of 3mm thick styrodur and cut out the apertures for the windows.


Then I scribed the border stones of the windows with the tip of a pencil.


Some hours later the stones have beeen engraved in the same way. I didn't scribed up to the edges because cornerstones should be placed there.


The painting was done with Tamiya Acrylics.


After that the mortar - artist's acrylic paste - was applied with a small palette-knife.


The cornerstones are made of 0.5mm Polystyrol scribed with an Olfa-Cutter from the back and carefully bended around a piece of wood.


Glossy paint was brushed on the cornerstones and with the help of a fine sieve ground white pepper was applied to the paint to achieve some texture on the stones. It is important to use glossy paint because it will stay wet long enough for the pepper to adhere to the paint.


The windows have been made with the help of self-adhesive labels. I drew the windows with TurboCad and printed the drawing on these labels. Then I applied the label to a piece of Vivak. Vivak is a clear 0.5 mm thick plastic covered with protective films on both sides. Of course the film was removed on the side where the label has been applied.


With a new blade in the scalpel the cutouts have been made. Do not use the scalpel for lifting the edges of the cutouts, otherwise you will end up with scratches on the plastic. Guess why I know it ;) You can use a toothpick or a pair of tweezers.


Window with finished cutouts. Protective film on the back side is still in place.


I coloured the glazing bars with water color.


You can remove the water color very easily with a toothpick after the color has dried.


The doors have been made with Polystyrol, scribed with an Olfa-Cutter, "grained" with a wire brush and the backside of a scalpel's blade, painted with different humbrol colors and weathered with different pigments. The hinges are small etching parts from Wenz. I soldered some small brass tubes to the end of the hinges and added a piece of brass wire as pivot. As already mentioned I used a pencil to rub on the door handles the "metallic effect".


The roof has been covered with laser-cut paper strips. The ridge tiles are self-made.




Hope you like it.

Harald












lab-dad

Beautiful!
Great step by step tutorial as well.
I wish I knew the materials you were using, some techniques I would like to try.
-Marty

TRAINS1941

That is a great job!!!  And nice instructions on how you did it.
Hope you post more of your work.

Jerry
Why isn't there mouse-flavored cat food?
George Carlin

Chuck Doan

Thank you for the informative post, Harald! Wow, another guy who carves stones. I like that shed and the scene it is in.

The acrylic sheet we use on some of our machines has the Vivak name. I don't know how or if it differs from good old Plexiglas.
"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

jacq01


  Hey Harald,

  welcome....a surprise to see you and your work here ....I send a mail to Wolfgang but no reply yet. 
  I really enjoyed operating the layout in Utrecht..... ;D ;D

  Jacq
 
put brain in gear before putting mouth in action.
never underestimate the stupidity of idiots
I am what I remember.

Frederic Testard

Very nice work, Harald. I think it is really well done, and moreover it is the kind of approach to modelling that makes you belong to this group.
By the way, I applied your graphite tip to my drill press model. The metal pieces are relatively small but the effect seems OK.
Frederic Testard

hguent2003

Thank you all for your warm welcome.

@Marty: Let me know what is not familiar to you and I will try to explain it.

@Jacq: Yes, your help was very much appreciated. Without you and the help of the other guys we might have been lost :o Wolfgang is a litte bit lazy in answering emails, so please be patient ;)

Just some additional infos to the layout.
The layout starts as a german narrow gauge railway somewhere in Germany with the railway station "Pusemuckel" as the central point. It has been build by my friend Wolfgang Jung. The rolling stock is contributed by another friend, Michael Krämer. Nearly five years ago Wolfgang convinced me to participate and I built my first two modules. Fortunately the module design is based on the FREMO-Standard, so there were no problems to extend the layout. After building some more modules I discovered my liking for non-german railroads/architecture - especially french and british stuff. So I decided to build this french part called "Jotwédé". I wonder if any non-germans can understand the meaning of "Jotwédé" because it is actual the german acronym "JWD". It's meaning is "Janz weit draussen". In english it could be translated to "Very far abroad".
So currently our layout is called "From Pusemuckel to Jotwédé" ;D

Below you will find some additional pictures









Harald

finescalerr

Most satisfactory. Imagine how those scenes would look in better lighting .... -- Russ

NORCALLOGGER

Harald,
Beautiful model work!  I really like your window sbs.  I have used a similar, though mirror image, to your method for outdoor modeling by using masking tape and spray paint on glass.

Really, really great work.
Rick

Ray Dunakin

Very nice work! I like the stream, with the dog fetching a stick.

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

marc_reusser

Harald,

Thanks for the engine shed SBS, and thanks for posting those images of the layout, it's beautifully done.


Marty:

From the looks of it, the "Styrodur"  is a foam sim to the blue or pink foam that Don Railton uses for his brickwork method.

"Polystyrol" I believe is just simply styrene (or as the brits call it "plasti-card").


Marc
I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

artizen

And to think I just throw all my offcuts of foamcore away because it curls in the humidity here. I will have to experiment with some and see if suitable bracing will allow me to use this technique for Welsh slate buildings seeing as I can't find any RTR in 7mm scale. The window technique is also really good as it creates a 3D thickness to the bars which make it so much more lifelike than simply printing it out on 3M colour overhead projection film.

Good stuff - show us more of your work. A very high standard and beautifully laid out.
Ian Hodgkiss
The Steamy Pudding - an English Gentleman's Whimsy in 1:24 scale Gn15 (in progress)
On the Slate and Narrow - in 1:12 scale (coming soon)
Brisbane, Australia

jacq01

QuoteImagine how those scenes would look in better lighting

and a new background ................Harald,  push Wolfgang to start with his part...as discussed in Lahnstein.

Jacq
put brain in gear before putting mouth in action.
never underestimate the stupidity of idiots
I am what I remember.

Ken Hamilton

Wow...the new talent just keeps pouring into this Forum!
Harold, I enjoyed seeing your stone carving techniques but your technique for making windows knocked
me off the chair.  That's a wonderful way to get thin, delicate muttins (is that the proper term?). 
GREAT job.
I look forward to seeing more.......
Ken Hamilton
www.wildharemodels.com
http://public.fotki.com/khamilton/models/

Chuck Doan

I think you eat muttin(s), and look out through muntins.
"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/