Up next on my "to do" list is the drill press.
The one I am building is based on the CHB (now Sierra West) Camelback version with auto feed.
You can see the SW one here; http://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/oscale/machine.shtml (http://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/oscale/machine.shtml)
For reference here is a picture of a real one;
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Mine will have the gear operated auto feed not belt driven as shown in the reference image.
The big(actually just one of them) challenge was the column.
It needed to be 9/16" at the base and halfway up taper to 5/16, then a 90 degree bend.
Easy.....
Here is the brass rod (solid) on the lathe being tapered;
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Once the taper was complete I heated it to anneal it (make it softer) and put the bend in it.
Here I am attaching the upper bearing guide.
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The base was milled from .250" aluminum plate.
I needed the weight to keep it from tipping over, that column is heavy!
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The collars for the table support are aluminum and the arm is .250" thick flat brass.
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The table is three layers of styrene.
This allowed me to form the "T" slots accurately.
Here I am milling the through holes in the table after I turned it round on the lathe.
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And here is where I am at currently.
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More soon.
-Marty
Yes please. More fantastic work to follow.
Looking forward to it Marty.
Great job on that main column!
Building large scale shop machinery looks challenging but very rewarding. Acceptable modeling, too. -- Russ
This surely will be a stndout in the Machine Shop. Your out doing yourself once again. Excellent work.
Jerry
I seriously would have never thought of doing this in brass... I had enough problems with acrylic rod (maybe that was the problem, hmmmm). This is extremely cool - watching you do this purpose built is terrific, and makes me want to go back and do another one - better. Out of curiosity, are there many folks doing 1:16th work? I only did mine in this scale to go with a half track kit, and could find little in the way of accessories that weren't home built.
I'm really wanting see how you attack the drill head and gear tie in from the pulley/shaft (I have no idea what the accurate terms are). Keep it coming, sir.
On another tangent - the more I stuff I try to do, the more I'm thinking lathe or drill press. Two questions:
1) Which do you (and others) find to be more versatile in the broad scope of hobby projects, and
2) How steep is the learning curve?
I use my drill to do a lot of items - but obviously this only works up to a point ::)
Yeow.....this is already gorgeous. Can't wait for more.
Marty, love the how to. As per our PMs could you do a step by step on the painting as you go along? It would really alleviate any questions in my mind. Will be following along for sure, love the creativity. Pat
Thanks guys!
I was worried about this one - still am, the camelback section is still rattling around in my brain.
Paul
Glad you asked questions!
I thought about ABS, I like how it glues up quick and solid. But in the end I could not find any 9/16 ABS rod and also worried about the bend.
I am not sure how many guys are doing 1/16. Here i think it is Gordon and I.
I know there are some military figures/busts in 1/16 but your right; not a lot of details.
That is a good thing, you see I like to build, from scratch so in this scale I can, just about make anything.
I actually have the gears worked out, just need to do the camelback and line the shafts up......
I think your question is about tooling to buy. If that is the case then a Sherline is the way to go.
i have the model 4000 lathe and a milling head option.
This way i turn and mill with the same tool.
Takes about 60 seconds to change.
There are other modelers and manufacturers on here and they love theirs too.
I am seriously considering buying the mill just for ease/speed and larger X-Y table, I have a lot of money invested in tools but I can make almost anything. I am a tool junkie!
I cant comment on the learning curve, I am a fast learner and worked with lathes and mills somewhat before using them to model. There are lots of good groups out there and most people are glad to help.
Pat,
will do but the paint wont be anything fancy....
More soon,
-Marty
If or when the day comes to buy a Sherline, I think Jerry Kitts is still a dealer. -- Russ
Looking good Marty.
I used to own a DP like that, except it had gearing for the power feed and a back gear just like a lathe. A beast for sure.
Be sure to drill a bunch of holes all over the table to simulate noob marks. Also, the noob marks would be in a somewhat radiused pattern with the center being the DP's upright/ shaft/stalk thing due to swinging the table (The Arc of Shame). As long as you have a worm working in a machine shop you'll always find their identifying marks on machine tables, especially on a drill press because the drill press is always the first machine tool to break out the new hires.
BTW, is that lathe a Southbend? And with a taper attachment too. Lucky dog.
Thanks Russ,
I had thought about the table marks
but thpught it might not look good even
Though they are correct.
I want to build a vise for the table too.
Took dimensions the other day.
Yes thats a SB, and i am a lucky dawg!
Thanks!
Marty
I was trying to find a picture of a table with a bunch of marks, but I couldn't get the link to work and I didn't want to save it and link it from my site since it wasn't my photo. it was a good one too. The table was stitch drilled almost all the way across and was about to break off.
AS for your table, it's yours and we know you wouldn't drill into your own machine's table.
Great modeling as always.
Thank you Marty,
I'm going to start putting aside quarters into the Sherline jar now... one of the things I want to make is some 1:16th weapons (M1919 MG, Suomi SMG, etc...) so I'm looking at having to be able to turn, and then drill, the barrel shrouds. In the short term it will be one or the other solution - as I can't afford both right now. I end up turning stuff with the hand drills - and as you can imagine, it places some degree of restrictions on your results ;D
I wish I'd had your first camelback image when I started off... I didn't have any that showed a good solid side view, and I didn't understand the mechanics of the "harp" framework & structure, and ended up re-doing it a couple of times until I figured out how everything was supposed to fundamentally work.
Glad I could help.
I am really using the drawing that came with the CHB drill press (1:48)
I blew it up to the 1:16 scale so i could use it for reference and dimensions.
I also photocopied some of the 1:48 parts @300%
You could get one of the Sierra West drill presses and then have all the same info/parts.
Doing a web search for camel back drill press also yielded some good results.
I found an English guy restoring one and he had all sorts of pulley dimensions so he could power it correctly with a modern motor.
I did exactly that on the Sherline; started with the lathe and "upgraded" to the milling column.
-Marty
Thanks Marty!
True story: When I started on my Belgian shop project, I had never seen a camelback drill press... much less know the name ::) I've learned more about tools, shops and heavy industrial operations from this site than I ever knew before. I've worked with modern mills and manufacturing for years (lumber, plywood, footwear and apparel) - but never in the actual machining or super heavy side. Of course after I made my drill press I find a couple gross of images on the web ;D
But enough about me - show us the next progress steps!
Marty,
Great work so far. Keep it coming.
Paul,
Not that I was asked, but I would recommend buying a mill before a lathe....but then I am biased as I suck on a lathe. ;D
QuoteI used to own a DP like that, except it had gearing for the power feed and a back gear just like a lathe. A beast for sure.
You mean like these Russ?;(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2F2591f4a2.jpg&hash=554cd35b42a37dd228ffe7d639e96bb9982e64b8)
There are 11 gears in the picture, the squares are one inch.......
Was real "fun" to figure out the math for the shaft spacing, then drill a jig for placement.
-Marty
For one brief horrifying minute, I thought I was looking at the next phase of the Camelback, and thought I had entered an alternate universe...
I take it you made these gears by yourself???
Oh dear, that one gear should have eight teeth, not six. Justa kidding, yes please share the tale of the gears.
Actually the gears are too coarse but I wanted them to work so i had to compromise.
I figure only you guys would notice....
I contemplated making my own but in the long run I thought better of it.
The brass ones you see are about $5 each, you do the math. There are several more to go too!
The bevel gears were the hardest to find, I found some lovely brass ones at on $45 a piece! :o
-Marty
Hell its only money!!!!! :o
But so far a fine job, young Martin.
Jerry
Working my way through the gears.......
The auto feed is some fiddly stuff.
I keep thinking to myself "how the hell did Charlie (Brohmmer) do this in "O" scale!!!!
I have since moved the parts a little and decided on a smaller driven gear.
Turning down the cast one in this picture was sure a challenge......Oh well.
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More soon.
-Marty
Ho-hum. Why not attempt something difficult? -- ssuR
QuoteHo-hum. Why not attempt something difficult? -- ssuR
That's coming with the framework on the back!
Needed to get some color, pigment, finishes on some of these parts.
Boy I love the AK Interactive dark steel!
Anyway here is what I have as of today.
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Thanks for looking!
More soon.
-Marty
God with a little coloring. We have just high lighted the whole thing. Beautiful work!!!
Jerry
Sweet!
Satisfactory. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on April 02, 2012, 01:01:22 AM
Satisfactory. -- Russ
Stop it Unc your giving him a big head!!!!! ;D
Jerry
I laid out as many of the dimensions for the framework as I could calculate/figure out.
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Then I sprayed a piece of .120" black styrene white.
That way using my dial calipers set to the dimensions, black lines would show.
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I also used a couple circle templates and a french curve.
Now to cut it out...... ???
-Marty
Good grief! That's quite the piece to lay-out there ... :o ... painting the black styrene white is a clever fix for marking that ... BUT ... if your drawing is actual size (or can be scanned/printed to actual size), then you can just stick that on the styrene with a glue stick from the office supply shop. It'll stand up to the cutting/handling, but can be peeled off when done. FWIW. Looking forward to more of the crazy drill press! -- Dallas
Can't wait to see this after its cut out. Great work Marty.
Jerry
Dallas,
I had thought about that but the scribing provides a finer and much more accurate line to work with.
The lines are really just guides as I will be using the tools measuring system for the cutting.
The "X" intersections (not on the drawing) also permit me to center a drill bit for nice smooth accurate radius'
-Marty
With all the dimensions laid out holes were drilled.
I drilled the holes undersize then ream to the exact final dimension.
The one inch holes had to be exact as I dont have a reamer that big!
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Then off to the router table.
I have a digital fence on the router table accurate to .001"
Thats why all the dimensions were written out.
Then a test cut and make sure the lines "line" up before cutting........
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Not bad, a little sanding & filing....
I missed one cut, did it after the pic.
More soon.
-Marty
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Happy Easter &/or Passover!
-Marty
IMMMMpressive! I love the look of your model. It might be thought of as just a simple drill press but it has so much visual interest, as if it were designed by a committee. ::)
It's great prototype to model and a great model of the prototype.
Bill M.
You seem to have a talent for this sort of thing, young Martin. -- Russ
What a courageous undertaking! Really cool to see it at this stage where we can study the assembly and all the bits and pieces ... and then comes the paint and finishing ... thanks for the detailed pix ... nice to follow along. -- Dallas
It's looking decidedly more Jules Vern at the moment - I actually love this idea......and then promptly went off of it when they called it "steam punk" { and of course when I realised everyone and his dog were doing it}!
Nope! - I think this is is looking particularly interesting - sort of engages your attention.
Smashing!!!!!!
Coming along nicely! Great job on that gear cluster and support.
Nice job Marty. Really like the way all the gears fit perfectly together.
Jerry
Stunning work Marty.
Thank you guys!
Glad you are enjoying watching almost as much as I am building! ;D
Hope to get on the pulleys this week and the levers...
-Marty
Table lift mechanism;
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The threaded rod is 00-80, gearshafts are .062"
And yes, they do work to raise & lower the table.
Just not sure how durable the cast gears will be.
I looked for brass but could not find any that small.
-Marty
Sweet! Did you turn the little brass handle (and likewise the double-ended handle with the square bit in the middle elsewhere on the drill)? -- Dallas
Yes Dallas, turned all the handles.
I do them on the lathe with files and set up gauges, especially the double ended one that needed to be the same on each end.
Thanks!
-Marty
-MJ
Just keeps getting better and better.
Jerry
You only need to make the gears work once, video it happening, and then post it on You Tube, and then you can retire them for life... it's what all the cool kids are doing these days ;D
This is really a great pice. I was completely thrown off track when I saw your gear frame cut out... until I went back and understood that you were not going with the Camelback as shown in the first photos but the one in the kit example. I was trying to cypher out how you were going to get that fiddle shape out of those parallel lines... "reading is fundamental" ::)
While it looks beautiful, the fact that all of the bits traverse, elevate and turn is really, really impressive. I doff my cap to you, sir.
Thanks Jerry & Paul.
Working in this scale i feel I "have" to make it is operational as possible.
I will look into the youtube stuff...
For now I managed to get the operational lever (I think) finished.
The lever causes the lower gears to mesh with the upper, basically turning the drill on and off.
While simple in appearance it was not quite...
The upper mount for the lever was fairly straightforward;
Drill a length of .125" tube and thread/solder in a 00-80 threaded rod.
The lower pivot was a little more work.
You see the large gear on the right must attach to the shaft to drive the smaller gear on the left.
However the collar with the stud (same as above) must allow the shaft to spin inside - just like above.
But, there must be a stop opposite the gear so the lever moves the gears (and shaft) in and out of mesh.
FWIW the lever is a piece of .093 brass rod.
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I guess now I have to do the darn stepped pulleys...........
-Marty
Oh hum ... more insane detail with tricky little bits. ;)
Nonetheless satisfactory. -- Russ
So is this thing actually going to drill holes or wot?
Beautiful work Marty.
Michael
QuoteSo is this thing actually going to drill holes or wot?
Well that is the plan - sort of...
I am going to "chuck" a 1/16 bit in it when complete and hopefully spin the pulleys and drill a hole in a piece of wood.
That will be where the rubber meets the road.
Theoretically it should work and then I can say it is fully operational.
Will see if I can do the youtube ting with that too.......
Thank you!
-Marty
Today was a good day; ;D
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Largest pulley is .875" then .750" then .625" and smallest .500"
Time for a drink! ;)
-Marty
Vera Nize!
Michael
Looking good, as usual.
Marty , nice work ................. always enjoy looking at your stuff
? why did you do all the pulleys as separate parts, would it not be easier and more prototypical just to have a stepped one piece
I know you just liked the challenge of producing exquisite small parts :D
Satisfactory. You really do have a talent for metal work. -- Russ
Making it look plausible, very good. Making it work, astounding. Nice job so far Marty.
Thanks Guys!!!!!
Gordon,
Good question!
On several prototype pictures i noticed the pulleys (or big one) being somewhat hollow, and "appearing" to be separate.
I have no way of really knowing if they were one piece or four - like mine.
In the overall scene it made sense to me to do it in 4 pieces for less material and time.
Turning down a piece of .875" aluminum rod would have taken a lot more time and the possibility of error.
As it was I did the large ones fancy and just sliced off the rest from appropriate sized stock and rounded them.
Hope this explains my logic.....
-Marty
-MJ
Wow your working with different kinds of metal is just awesome. Can't wait to see this painted and running.
Jerry
The main belt shifter.
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-Marty
Jewelry. -- Russ
What Russ said... I want to wear it as a hat. After it's painted, of course.
Most sweet!
M
Just a beautiful piece of work!!!
Jerry
Marty it look super, I think it is time for an overall again.
Michael
Thanks guys!
Michael,
It is actually almost done!
I need to drill the three holes in the base column.
I keep putting it together & taking it apart as i go to check fit and not damage other things.
I bet I have done it 50 times, each time going a step further.
Once I do the last bits I will shoot some pics of it all assembled.........then take it all apart for paint......
-Marty
This sort of modelling - No lets change that to this sort of Modelling in miniature Art is just pure Inspiration and its different keep the excellent work up -
and keep feeding us !
Barney
Thanks Barney, means a lot, not only you but everyone here.
Last multicolor/material shot.
Coming apart shortly for finish, wish me luck!
Might be some time before an update.
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Marty
Holy crap! Wow, cool & good luck thru the paint & reassembly. ;) -- Dallas
Satisfactory. -- Russ
Beautiful Marty... just don't let OSHA see that... ;)
Paul
-MJ
My friend that is just awesome. Beautiful work!!!
Jerry
Does look nice au natural.
I like how you build the machine!
Almost too good for the color!
Thanks guys! ;D
Now you know why i never finished the Corliss; http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=398.165 (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=398.165)
-Marty
You realize, don't you, that ardent Gazette readers and the National Narrow Gauge Convention Faithful would excommunicate you and your models from the narrow gauge hobby for the following reasons:
1. It ain't a train.
2. It ain't On30.
3. It ain't in the Gazette.
4. It requires advanced modeling skills and therefore is intimidating.
5. Bob Brown didn't anoint you with olive oil.
6. Your model didn't receive the Paul Scoles Seal of Approval.
Thank goodness. Welcome to the Dark Side.
ssuR
1. It could go on a train
2. Isn't it On2.467?
3. What is a gazette?
4. I like to be intimidating :'(
5. Isn't bob the builder for children
6. Seal? No animals were harmed furring the construction of this model.
Unc- are you my father?
Quote from: finescalerr on May 07, 2012, 11:47:52 AM
You realize, don't you, that ardent Gazette readers and the National Narrow Gauge Convention Faithful would excommunicate you and your models from the narrow gauge hobby for the following reasons:
1. It ain't a train.
2. It ain't On30.
3. It ain't in the Gazette.
4. It requires advanced modeling skills and therefore is intimidating.
5. Bob Brown didn't anoint you with olive oil.
6. Your model didn't receive the Paul Scoles Seal of Approval.
Thank goodness. Welcome to the Dark Side.
ssuR
And it doesn't have antlers...
Paul
Hello Marty,
I have admired for some time to build this great model.
Several times I've long considered this picture and ask myself how it all works?
Quote from: lab-dad on May 06, 2012, 12:08:44 PM
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An excellent work.
QuoteSeveral times I've long considered this picture and ask myself how it all works?
Helmut,
That is part of the modeling "journey" for me.
I spent a long time studying the images too (prototype reference).
I had a hard time figuring it out too.
But I "think" I know now!
The long lever hanging down the side basically turns the machine on and off.
The small gears at the top allow different speeds for the automatic feed.
The hand-wheel at the front allows the operator to advance the drill lower (or higher) to engage the work.
Always fun to learn about a new machine!
-Marty
Hi Marty,
Thanks for the explanations.
It is always my goals.
First They understand technology.
Second The technology in the model fuktionell replicate.
Gerrn I'll check out your report on.
Marty, very nice modeling and a great SBS. How many more are you planning to built? Looking forward to the paint.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Even if you left it like that and didnt paint it, it would still be one of the coolest things ive seen.
Great job Marty
Thanks Guys!
Gordon, Plan is to do as many as I feel like. Looking forward to the lathe and all the other little details.
Going to do whatever looks like fun or inspires me.
Hopefully a shop someday too. Was at home depo Sat. and found some mosaic tiles that would make a good limestone wall!
Wes, Thanks! yes it is cool but the right color/finish will really make the difference.
No pressure now right?.... :-\
-Mj
Craftmanship at it's best
Well it is done!
I am very pleased, and I am my own worst critique as most of you can relate.
This has been a challenging project and likely due to that a VERY enjoyable one!
I see some things I could have done better or differently but then again I have only built
one 1/16th camel-back drill press.
I am not sure what is next in the machine shop but rest easy there will be more, lots more!
Hope you enjoy the final images.
-Marty
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fdrilltable.jpg&hash=bd5a112dd890b402fd9a33d78014175344e0877b)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fdrillpress.jpg&hash=5e72230a4bb9fb67d847028acd35a9673473bd44)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Ftopgears.jpg&hash=029676f17d6b8d2bbe49007c8a49f4528b079589)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fbottompulleys.jpg&hash=5dc1dff44dd28794bd78d7899dfbab2e95160cbc)
Marty, you're an artist! Hard to believe that the scale is not 1:1.
I have to revise my earlier statement - even with paint you have done it beautifully!
Marty,that is very nice, just perfect.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Marvelous piece of work!
Well, I suppose it's really not so bad. -- Russ
Brilliant.......nice paint job too!
Anders
Really exceptional Marty, the build and the paint finish. Bravo!
Nice paint job - Green is the way to go (it's the only colour I use despite the knocks I get from the Phoenix mob)
Superb model building - excellent workmanship.
Barney
Thanks everyone!
-marty
When all the machines are done, how big of a room will you need to house them? 10 x 10 ?
MPH
As always a master at machine building.
McCabe Lathe next young Martin????????
Jerry
This came out great Marty. That will be an impressive shop someday. Some kind of lathe would be a good choice and if you decided to stop there you would have three common and useful machines.