I'm still doing the research and planning on my monorail, and I had some time this weekend so I did a little modeling. I added some shutter hardware to my long neglected ¼" scale country store. I doubt that I will pick it back up, but it felt good to be back at the bench. Grandt Line hinges and .010 x .040 styrene diagonal bars with Tichy rivets. Hairspray chipping.
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The nice little touches really set off the woodwork. -- Russ
I miss seeing this one....... :(
Great little detail
-mj
I am glad you came back to this one! I just recently saw your "Altered States" page and I love what you did to them! I'll have to print one out and see it in print, maybe I can get it signed by the artist!?
Don't stop on this one! It's too cool
Gil
Stunning!
a) Looks good! (of course)
b) QUESTION: If you've painted that diagonal strip and/or little hinges separately, how did you "hold" them while painting? On sticky-side-up tape? Or ... ??
Cheers,
Dallas
Quote from: Malachi Constant on September 06, 2011, 09:19:26 PM
QUESTION: If you've painted that diagonal strip and/or little hinges separately, how did you "hold" them while painting? On sticky-side-up tape? Or ... ??
Cheers,
Dallas
Dallas you know he's Mr. Wizard!!!! But a very good question??
Jerry
Thanks! It was good to sit at the bench after 3 months away.
Dallas, yes exactly, double sided tape. I sprayed flat black as a primer and the hairspray and final coat (Polly scale) all while they were stuck to a piece of wood. You get a bit of paint overhang to cut away, but it's no big deal.
On delicate stuff I often use the sticky side of a post-it note, gives you a handle too!
-Mj
Your attention to every square inch of a model is astounding.....
Wow Chuck. Nice work with the misaligned hinges and the different textures that you capture so well.
Thanks Ken and Naryan! Good tip Marty.
It's been hard to get some bench time lately, but I did finish the underside of the front canopy. I added water stains and some mud dauber nests.
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Chuck,
Mud Dauber nests. Back here we call them hornet nests.
But whatever they are called who would have thought to add them to a porch roof ceiling? Another fine detail by Mr. Doan.
Created using??? Maybe plaster than gouache applied??
Jerry
Curious I looked up Mud Dauber. Huh. They ARE wasps .. just not aggressive at all. Hadn't really thought about it .. since they pay you no attention I do the same with them.
Excellent detail!
I get mud dauber nests in my shed all the time, sometimes on the handles of little-used yard tools. They get in through a hole in the door -- funny thing is, if I open the door, they get confused. They'll keep trying to go through the hole (which is blocked when the door is open) rather than using the open doorway.
I get them around the eves of the house. I have a number of old building pics with these and it seemed an appropriate detail. I just mixed up some fine powdered dirt with water and white glue (instead of wasp spit) and applied/shaped them with a toothpick. So, they are actually made of mud.
You have indicated you are just fooling around with this model and may never complete it. In a way that's too bad. It sets a new standard for 1:48. -- Russ
Wow, that's really just the Bee's Knees!
No ... wait ... that's just the bee's nest ... looks like you didn't even model the bees or figure out how to properly model their knees. So, I'm gonna have to say that you've really chickened out this time. >:(
Not sure how chickens and bees go together, but that's a separate issue ...
-- Dallas
I had a honey mustard chicken sandwich the other day...
Chuck,
I'll pay that one ;D
It is great to see you back toying with the 1/48 stuff. Serves as a reminder that I have to try harder, and can't pass off on the easy excuse that you are modelling large scale so the detailing steps will be easier.
Cheers,
Dan
Couple of quick checkpicks: Beginning the flayed paint siding on the front wall above the canopy. Still blending the typical southern rust on the corrugated.
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Gaack! :o
Wonderful work on the corrugated. More real than real.
M
What he said Chuck!
Hey Chuck,
I was up along the Delaweare River today. Came across a barn with a rusting metal roof on it.
Think I'll go back tomorrow and tell him his roof is rusting wrong!!!!
Hell that's beautiful.
Jerry
........Holy Crap.............
There should be a Dave Robicheaux "Boats and Bait" sign over the top... all it needs is some mirage effect from the heat rolling off the tin.
Chuck I like the individual sheets, Why are they so different regarding the top edge? There seems to be a disconnect between the vertical flashing almost uniformly rusted and the variations on the sloped sheets with regards to the amount of rusting.
regards Michael
Quote from: Chuck Doan on October 24, 2011, 01:54:08 PM
Couple of quick checkpicks: Beginning the flayed paint siding on the front wall above the canopy. Still blending the typical southern rust on the corrugated.
Could you please, please with sugar on top give a full tutorial on how you painted that corrugated siding?
Does it take money? Do I have to beg?
Seriously, please?
Hauk
Yup, nice.
The chalky whiteness of the galv iron sheets is really nice. Iron is still one thing that I've done a number of different treatments for, and still struggle to find a finish that I'm really happy with. Modelling rural Australian stuff, getting good looking iron is kind of important.
The mottled and decayed timber font fascade is also a nice balance of contrast here, especially when comparing the upper very exposed timbers, to the more protected pieces under the roof line.
Thanks for bringing us another update Chuck...as usual, not disappointed.
Cheers,
Dan
It's interesting to see how you now translate your larger scale techniques so effectively to 1:48. This could be one of the finest 1:48 models of all time. -- Russ
Quote from: michael mott on October 24, 2011, 08:32:47 PM
Chuck I like the individual sheets, Why are they so different regarding the top edge? There seems to be a disconnect between the vertical flashing almost uniformly rusted and the variations on the sloped sheets with regards to the amount of rusting.
regards Michael
This is typical/common amongst metal roofs, siding and surfaces. Different metal components will rust differently depending on variety of factors, such as thickness, type and amount of galvanizing, and underlying substrate/framing, and use/climatic conditions of both the interior/underlying space, as well as the exterior.
I would ass-u-me in Chucks case that the flashing is a different metal and thickness than the roofing...or a lesser quality/type coating. The roof panels would/could vary because the sheets further away from the structure will have a different climatic condition (heat/moisture/humidity differences and rate of change from day to night) than those closer, to the structure. The rusting would/could also be affected by the laps, and the difference this makes in climatic condition...as would the underlying framing. Note also the sides of the overhang are closed....thus more space for trapped air/warmth under the area closer to the building and less at the outer...and because of this difference in the amount of air under the outer and closer edges of the awning, it will cause more rapid/harsh changes in the metal each day as it transitions from day to night conditions (and visa-versa)....
Think of what happens to metal, along the same lines of how wood wears and peels differently depending on prep and finish, exposure, location, substrate, interior use, proximity of vegetation, and humidity to heat/dryness transition from night to day.
As far as I'm aware, the "checkerboard" look that often occurs with the rust patterns on older galvanised roofing occurs because of how the galvanising process used to be done in the past. I think it resulted in a different thickness of the galvanised coating on the front and back of the sheet, and depending on which way up the builder lay the sheet, some had a better weather protection layer than others, hence as time goes by, some panels rusted out much more than others.
Cheers,
Dan
Marc, Dan
Thanks for the detailed explanations, I grew up in a pretty damp climate things seemed to rust differently there.
Michael
Thanks all! The corrugated is from Builders in Scale. It is their S scale sheets slightly stretched to make 2" O scale spacing, which seems pretty common on southern structures. Trimmed to width with a knife, soda blasted @ 15 PSI, etched in PCB etchant, and then "painted" with gouache applied with a sponge and then pigment powders applied with a soft brush. I used a mix of Burnt Umber, and Sienna and black and then white for the unrusted parts. The transparency of the gouache works well for building up colors without covering thickly. It is also infinitely forgivable. I found it harder to do than the larger scales; certain mottling ideas don't look right in O scale and trying to vary the color of .04 wide troughs was tough for me. The blend between the rusted/unrusted areas is tricky; I'm still playing with it, it's harder to control in this scale. Things that look good close up don't always work in full view.
Michael, I went to Flickr for reference. Corrugated rusts in so many different ways even on the same roof. You are right that there are also regional differences. One fairly common thing (though not always) was that the overlapped seams do not rust like the rest; I have no idea why. I copied a store canopy I found that had the rust pattern shown. I don't know why the pattern occurred like it did, though Marc has some good suggestions. I went for a fuller rust to give the model more color and contrast. The flashing is .002 steel that was etched to .001 thick which still proved to be quite stiff (unlike aluminum strip). I am still finalizing the coloring and I plan to add some more white paint slop. You could choose many different patterns from almost no rust to blotchy bits or fully and completely rusted and be correct. I think I am going to try ribbed seam panels for the main roof-another common southern roofing material.
Dan, I found the chalky white kind of tough. I used white gouache and pigment powders, but it is still greyer in the sun. There are plenty of Down under examples of corrugated on Flicker. The tin churches are very interesting.
Russ, it's been interesting working back in this size. I am still figuring out what can work. The nice macro view does not always translate to looking good when I pull back like it did in the larger scales. Nails really disappear at normal viewing distance.
I've wondered the same about the overlapping panels (edges) as well... I wonder if the overlap and typical lack of rust is akin the action with the zinc sacrifice plates on the back of boats? One would think that the exposed edges would rust sooner/faster... but the opposite seems to be true? I wonder if the overlapping and having two layers so close retards the overall rate of the exposed plate - because the reaction is halved?
Or I could be needing to stop looking at photos, catch up on my medications and get back to work ;D ;D ;D
Chuck, as you move back to a smaller scale do you find yourself going more for "realistic impression" rather than specific detail? You mentioned the nail heads as an example of detail failing to translate as you back off. Anything else so far? And how do you handle those things? Just omit them?
Your thoughts might be very valuable to small scale modelers who look with envy at photos of superb large scale models.
Russ
For the corrugated I found impression is looking better than the textured mottling I did in larger scales. Everything is more concentrated into a smaller package so some details even if they are technically correct may not look right when viewed at as a whole. I'll need to mock up a base pretty quick to see if this project is going to work in a scene.
I am getting worried about the day when Chuck will start working in 1/87!
But this is a good discussion. How small can you go? There are things that you can replicate in smaller scale, but they just don't look right. The perfect example would be Ken's shopping cart. Ken developed this impressive brass kit of a O-scale shopping cart, it looks great in O-scale. DaKra and I were discussing the option of a HO-scale version. Of course it's possible. Technically it can be done, but I think it really wouldn't look right. There are limitation is scaling down. But I'm drifting off...
Chuck,
it's a pleasure to follow you build!
Really great as usual! By the way will this be just a front like the Groveland Garage? Maybe I missed something about that in another thread ???.
Anders ;D
Thanks Christian. Anders, it started as a most of a building, but I have converted it to a front:
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I see that giant hand has crept back in again ;D
I am so disappointed you can't make the CSC2011. Had looked forward to your clinic.
I'll satisfy my needs by reading through this thread a couple more times.
Excellent!
8)
Couple of quick-between the clouds shots. Got the rest of the front siding on. Not too happy to read the topic on Silverwood fading as it is the basis of what I am doing.
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Chuck I like the parabolic curve of the difference between the weathering that is less exposed seeing the suns shadow on the building highlights the effect.
Michael
I think part of your lower photo didn't load. -- Russ
It was the last picture on the roll.
QuoteIt was the last picture on the roll.
Are we talking film and chemicals and all that? :o ;D ;D
Cheers Michael
Michael..Chuck is just pulling your leg. ;D
...or he's been sniffing the Silverwood too much.
Really loving this building. The faded and chipped paint is outstanding and very realistic. The sign is a good touch and adds a bit of color.
Rob
Yes, too much Silverwood in a confined space!
Thanks Rob!
Quote from: finescalerr on November 07, 2011, 01:08:31 PM
I think part of your lower photo didn't load. -- Russ
That's what he means about the Silverwood fading!!!!!! :o
Jerry
Fading my brain for sure.
Here's a quick sign mock-up to judge placement/size. Posed before authentic southern scenery, nawthern Georgia I think. Deliberate cropping. ;D
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Ah Chuck, the immediate thought was "thanks for the link to the the flickr shot" of some ghost town store...and then did the second take thing, so its just the model. The sign is just right by my eye. Big enough, and enough colou,r to add contrast to the scene, but also appropriate as the usual "poor mans" signage for this type of store...no big flashy and expensive hand painted custom signwriting would have been across the front fascade, but you know they sold coke (or pepsi).
Cheers,
Dan
You won't win contest points with that sign unless it has chase lights. -- ssuR
Ala John Belushi:
"Cheeseburger-cheeseburger-cheeseburger,......"Coke!" "no Pepsi!"
Sorry just brought back memories
MPH
Yeah it's a problem doing all the detailing on the siding and then how much do you cover up with signs?
That's where the judge's look! :o
Under the signs,.................... ::) ::) ;D ;D ;D
MPH
Just hope'n and pray'n that milk doesn't come out of the judge's noses when they look at my stuff!
Just model a dairy! ;D
Looks perfect to me Chuck. Can you explain how you did it?
On to the next store I like Pepsi!!!!!
Okay, Okay I'll go stand in the corner with ssuR!!!!!
Jerry
Quote from: Chuck Doan on November 10, 2011, 01:57:43 PM
Yeah it's a problem doing all the detailing on the siding and then how much do you cover up with signs
Chuck, why don't you combine the two? Make the "imprint" of a sign, basically the shape of the sign that has fallen off, but has some somewhat protected the paint and wood. Maybe some rust spots on the edges where the sign rust has tarnished the white paint and the wood.
That's an interesting idea Christian. I may find a place for something like that. Jerry, I also prefer Pepsi, but in the south, well Coke is it. Wes, I'm going to make a frame and then if I still like it i'll write it up.
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A dramatized progress shot of the front doors. After returning to this project (started back in '08), I decided I didn't like the first doors I did. So I remade them with wider boards. Then I decided the lower boards needed less paint, so I redid those again this weekend. I made the astragal (center strip) narrower and I added a Grandt Line hasp and a missing doorknob hole. I added a Microscale Pillsbury flour decal-I sanded it thinner after application with 1200 grit sandpaper and then soda blasted it at low pressure. Still needs a padlock and a bare-bulb light fixture.
Hopefully I will stay liking like this third version, but I have plenty of wood just in case. ;)
Stunning! Incredible detail for 1:48, hard to tell it's not 1:1.
Chuck, are you suggesting everything doesn't work out perfectly on the first attempt? Odds bodkins, man! Don't you realize that kind of admission will drive millions out of the hobby? -- ssuR
All I can say is WOW. Great work.
Chuck -
That's a very convincing wear pattern - lower down on the door receives less weather protection from the overhang, plus lower down is where hands touch the door, and carts bang up the paint as they are pushed through. The water stain on the overhang adds interest to a normally bland area.
Mark
Third time is a charm!!!!!
Hell I thought one & two were pretty dam good myself!!!!! ;D
Jerry
Chuck - Just amazing + loads of wows !! Just starting my workshop building and not having much success in removing the paint off the planks do you think these Soda blaster things would make a better job or do you use the removal of the paint by tape and the blaster are the blasters controllable by the amount of air preasure and is it just Soda powder that you use ?
Thanks
Barney
Thanks guys!
Barney, here is the technique I have been using for this:
The wood is basswood, pre-cut to size. Mt. Albert, Midwest, Kappler Lumber are sources in the U.S. and Canada.
Stained with a product called Silverwood made by Builders in Scale. More coats equals a darker finish. Dries pretty fast.
Brush on brown Bragdon pigment powders and blow off residue. (helps peeling)
Then I dab brush on some Paint Thinner (mineral spirits) and I wait until just a sheen is left.
Then I brush on some Acrylic white paint made by Floquil (Polly Scale), about 3 brushed out coats. More coats usually equals more peeling, but too thick and the peels will be rubbery and out of scale.
Sometimes I lightly score along the grain with a sharp knife to help the paint break up. (optional)
Then I peel the paint using a strip of Scotch Magic tape, usually layed along the grain. Keep turning the tape to use full strength adhesive (thinner dulls it) and also use fresh tape strips as required.
Add some splits/cracks with very sharp Xacto. Enhance some grain with damp brush on exposed wood (raises grain). Touch up exposed wood with Silverwood applied with a tiny brush and add/enhance color with thinned gouache.
When dry, I spray each board with a flattening agent called Dullcoat.
Each board is done individually. Each one can be peeled to suit a specific location or just generally. I occasionally remove and replace boards that I dislike after they have been applied.
Method is a little subjective, but usually reliable. You must peel shortly after the paint is applied; as the thinner dries, the peel effect is lost. For O scale I have not done any pre-graining of the wood. Of course the paint color can vary, but I have had the best success with Polly Scale brand. Feel free to test other brands, but I can't vouch for them. The undercoat can probably be ink or other standard weathered wood formulas. I have just been stuck on the Silverwood. Scotch Magic tape works best-you don't want something too aggressive or you will lift wood slivers too. Some tapes can leave a residue too. I use separate brushes for the Silverwood, thinner and paint.
I sometimes soda blast the paint at low pressure to dull it. I have had no luck removing paint with the soda blast and getting a good result; it takes the wood back to original color usually and adds too much graining.
Recap:
Stain
Powder
Thinner
Paint
Peel
Touch-up/Dullcoat
And don't forget relentless grueling research! ;D
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomjbh/5892179309/
Chuck - Thanks for the answers - I will have another bash at it -
Thanks again
Barney
Thanks Chuck for the how to do it. It's appreciated.
I understand now why it never comes out right I missed the last step!!!
And don't forget relentless grueling research!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomjbh/5892179309/
Jerry
And you put back the fallen ( or a new ) number 7 or is that missing on the garage ?
improving your own work is always nice, there must have something been bothering you ;D ;D
Jacq
At some point, some of your models (like Chuck's recent ones) transcend craft to become art. We all recognize it when we see it. Rather cool, isn't it? -- Russ
Yeah Jerry, it can be distarcting er, tracting! I'ts nice that so many photograpers like to pose thier pretty models against nice weathered subjects.
Yes, Jacq, I found the seven!
Thanks Russ.
Great idea to have written the year the model is complete on the door, Chuck... :) :)
You broke the code, Frederic! Even so, that will be cutting it close...
Chuck,
I was just checking out the country store pictures on your fotki site, reading about the concept. It made me think of William Christenberry. I am not sure if you are familiar with his work, but he is an excellent photographer, documenting mostly structures ofthe South. His images should be a treasure trove of inspiration for your country store project.
Interestingly, Christenberry moved into building models. Very interesting stuff:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_Christenberry
http://www.christenberryonline.com/
Thanks for the reference Christian! For some reason I had forgotten him, but I am a big fan of this guy's work, many of which openly emulate WC's style:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/evanleavittphotography/
I will get re-acquainted!
Chuck, Thanks for posting Evans Photography site. This guy is GOOD ;)
Yes, thanks for that link!
Even though those photoshop tricks make them bad modeling references. Still, the photography and the motives are very nice!
A bit of progress: I finally wound up re-doing about 90% of the 2009 siding under the canopy including the doors and shutters. The clapboards are easy to replace on a board for board basis. More and more paint is coming off. I'm enjoying playing with the bare wood coloring using gouache.
Now starting the siding on the left addition. The paneled door is from the 2009 version; we will see if it survives.
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Why build a new one when it's so much fun destroying the old one! ;D (Neat) -- Dallas
I like this new, more heavily weathered version.
Now I'll have to go back to the old building to see what the difference is!!!
Always improving . So does this mean we get to hear how you did this with the gouache????
Jerry
Do you also plan on modeling mold, dry rot, and termites? I can almost smell the decay. -- Russ
Looking great Chuck.... :o! More weathering and it will fall apart before the end of the year.
Anders ;D
Some progress; the addition has its front siding and a new simple board door. I'm still refining my faux knots and wood graining via gouache. The porch is a quick mock-up. The backdrop is the Smoky Mountains. The foredrop is a minutely detailed slab of foam core.
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I turned a light fixture from white styrene rod and a bulb from clear sprue and installed them over the front door. I added a drooping wire connecting the outlet box. The bulb is just over a 1/16" long. It's harder to get good close-ups in this scale, but it's no harder to build.
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The bulb is just over a 1/16" long. It's harder to get good close-ups in this scale, but it's no harder to build.
Oh sure, easy for you to say!
The foredrop is a minutely detailed slab of foam core.
This is the only detail I might be able to mimic! LOL
MPH
Wow! Very nice!!
I'm still looking at that picture. Can't believe your turning a light bulb in O-Scale.
I like the addition with the hand written sign.
Jerry
Thanks!
Here is a so-so pic of the light. It's hard to get in there and keep any DOF.
The sign came from Flickr
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In-freaking-credible!
That's 1:48 scale, huh? Yeah, sure it is .... -- Russ
Wow.....that bulb & fixture are amazing.
wow chuck wow
Please go away! You're just being a nuisance at this point. ;D -- Dallas
Well I give up.
I Think im going to start knitting instead.
Fantastic work and pictures! That Smokey Mountain backdrop is just perfect. What´s next...just some debris around this abandoned building I´ll guess.
Anders ;D
It does not light up?
too bad, but I guess it is "abandoned" ;)
mj
Not much progress, but at least all the siding is on.
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I tried Christian's idea for a missing sign:
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Nice. Like in real life the top boards are protected from the sun and elements.
Jerry
Chuck, The missing sign was probably Bought buy a antique dealer years ago ::)
Nice work. I like the call outs on the upper photo to teach other modelers why the weathering looks as it does. I wish I had learned that decades ago. -- Russ
It is, of course, beautiful, but I'm confused by the missing sign. Wouldn't the wood here be less weathered, rather than more?
Hats off again Chuck! Just look at the attention to the end of the beams and boards. Insane :o!
Anders
Thanks! Kevin, I guess it would depend on what the paint condition/color was when the sign was installed. I have seen missing signs with bare weathered wood underneath as well as fresher looking paint as you describe or even a completely different color.
This is just way beyond cool.
Too bad it is abandoned. It would be neat to encapsulate a nano LED into a clear resin lightbulb casting. ;D
Bill
I haven't been very interested in model building lately, but I did take some pics of the finished porch and piers. Just starting the ground cover.
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As always Chuck, brings a smile to my face when I see you've put up an update ;D
The sag along the bearers of the porch between the rock piers is just beautiful. Nothing shows an aging property better than a sag in the skeleton (after all, its the same thing that happens to most of us when we get old as well). The natural light shot also highlights how accurate the change in peeling paint has been captured, where it is shadowed by the roof line.
Cheers,
Dan
WOW. You dont get more realistic than that.
I love the sag youve achieved in the porch. Cant wait for the next update.
Seriously? ............... words fail me!
I haven't been very interested in model building lately, but your post helps. -- Russ
Um...WOW! :o...what can one say that hasnt been said. You're really flashin' those mad skills cuz. I'm speechless. Simply beautiful to look at.
To do the sags, did you actually bend the stripwood, or did you use a wider piece and sand/carve the needed shaped beam out of it?
Are you sure that that bare bulb above the left/addition door would have survived?....first thing as a kid, that I would have thrown rocks at or whacked with a stick. ;)
Marc
Hello Chuck,
give it too quiet, this is the original and not the model. ;)
Just wonderful. :)
Doan losing interest in modeling. Isn't that a bit like Hefner (or Unc) losing interest in women?
Hey Chuck it's your stuff that helped me back. The building is wonderful.
Thanks all! I just haven't felt like sittin at the bench much is all. Dan, I hadn't noticed the shadows-they worked out good! Marc, I just carefully bent the strip in my fingers. A fine line between bent and broke. On the deck planks I dampened the bottom side to create a slight cupping and to make it easy to make a sag. I would have broken the bulb too as a kid, but it looked better with one in there.
Chester at least Hef has Viagra. Modelers need a pill for a basswoody. Thanks, and welcome back!
This can only be described as " Pure Inspiration"
Barney
"Hef has Viagra. Modelers need a pill for a basswoody."
Chuck, go stand in the corner!
ssuR
Quote from: finescalerr on April 17, 2012, 11:57:13 AM
"Hef has Viagra. Modelers need a pill for a basswoody."
Chuck, go stand in the corner!
ssuR
Several comments could be made here about stiff competition, but I'll refrain.
Paul
Nicely done Sir!
And is this work and time spent applicable?
In all seriousness an amazing attention to observation of what happens to infrastructure. When we pay more attention to profit than community. Our infrastructure crumbles
Michael
Chuck, how did you model the nails (on the screen door and elsewhere)? What size brass wire did you use, and how did you make the holes to put them in (drill or punch with a needle)? How did you get the ends so flat?
Ray, I size the heads to be about 3/8", so .015 wire for 1/2" scale. I use a .014 drill which usually makes a light interference fit.
I fire up the disc sander and touch the end of a length wire to square it, then nip off about a 1/4" length and then square off the wire and cut again. Tedious. Then batch blacken, press partway in, and color head either rusty or wall paint color and press allaway in using a squared off piece of styrene strip.
Ray, what screen door ? am i missing something? Chuck, Looking good ;)
Quote from: Mobilgas on May 04, 2012, 02:46:23 PM
Ray, what screen door ? am i missing something?
Sorry, my question was in reference to Chuck's 1/24th gas station, and I thought that was where I had posted the question. Not quite sure how it ended up here.
Chuck, thanks for the info! I want to give that a try on my current project.
Ray I did try some nails on this one....008 wire. They are too hard to see to be worth it.
I added a light and the front sign for my store. I found a nice large weathered straight on view of a Coke sign on the internet and imported it into Photoshop Elements to resize it and brighten and clean it up a bit. I then opened a Word document and found a nice type font for the name and typed it out. I saved the document as a PDF and then saved that to a JPEG. I imported the name image into PSE and weathered it with brush strokes to simulate a faded brush-painted sign. I then combined the two edited images (name and Coke) in a Word document and did the PDF to JPEG thing to create a single unified image. I cropped the final sign image and imported it into Word, sized it for my sign (5/8" x 1 ¼") and printed it onto Epsom presentation paper.
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I took the printed sign and burnished Scotch Magic tape over both sides, and then trimmed it to final size around its edges. I epoxied it to .005 styrene and soda blasted it to dull the surface of the tape. I then added additional fading and weathering with gouache and Bragdon powders. I carefully butted .015 x .030 styrene strips up to the image edge and attached them to the .005 styrene sheet with Testor's cement to create the "metal" frame. I then trimmed around the frame to finish the sign. I sanded the face of the frame smooth and weathered it with powders N gouache. A final light soda blasting unified the weathering.
I made full page width images in Word so the shrunk down image would be crisp. Of course this requires a large source image which I fortunately had. I used an Epsom dot matrix printer, best photo setting, presentation paper setting, and I turned off the high speed setting to get the best printed image. For weathering reference, both Flickr and E-bay were good sources for old Coke sign pics.
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The light shade is a brass stamping from the scrap box. I turned a cap and a mounting bracket from styrene and attached them with .02 wire. The brass was blackened and then painted with thinned Polly scale white (underside) and green gouache and weathered with powders. The mounting post was weathered to represent an old galvanized finish.
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Well, sh*t ... there I was enjoying that nifty, realistic, clever new sign ... then I get to the last photo and see that some bugger has already stolen it. Nice while it lasted! ;D -- Dallas
Chuck, I know this is for the Country Store Redux however my question is on Groveland. I know you said you used "O" scale lumber for the clapboards. in 1/2" scale would that be 2" x 12" or 2" x 14" "O" scale lumber to make the clapboards. I have alot of "O" 2" x 12" also if I was to upsize from 1/2" to 1:20 scale I also have plenty of 1" x 6" & 1" x 8" in true 1:20
As always the "Groveland" is better than the real thing if that sopunds right
Thanks,
Mike Sigmon
Jacksonville, Fl
Hi Mike,
I used O scale 1 x 12's to simulate 1/2" x 6" clapboards. I don't know the most common true thickness prototype size, but I would guess it to be between 3/8 and 1/2. If the 2 x 12's look good to you, then use them, I have seen pictures of some pretty thick prototype clapboards too.
Dallas, it must be those TV pickers again!
A lesson in how to make realistic signs. As usual a beautiful job.
Jerry
Well I suppose when you break down the amount of work that went into a (5/8" x 1 ¼") sign you start to realise why the total model looks that good !
I do like the lamp, colour and weathering on it are just terrific
that JPEG PDF stuff sounds horribly complicated
Chuck, I admire again and again your miniaturization of the nature!
I can not get enough to see from your modeling!
Superb.
If you had Photoshop you could have chosen the Type tool, picked your font from the drop down list, and added it to the image (after enlarging the "canvas" size). It would have been unnecessary to go to Word, save the text first as a PDF, and then to re-save it as an image file.
Note to everyone: Never save an original image as a JPEG. That format is only for use on the Internet. It is destructive; it adds artifacts and removes important image data. Save as a TIFF or BMP or any other uncompressed format. Then, if you must have a JPEG for some reason, save a copy of the TIFF image as a JPEG.
Similarly, you could have sized the final sign and printed it directly from Photoshop (with much more control over the printed image) instead of importing it to Word for that step.
I've never used it but maybe Photoshop Elements would allow you to do one or two of those things.
It is impossible for me to improve on the artistry I see on this forum but sometimes I can help with an aspect of technology.
Russ
Thanks All! Yes Russ I am still a bit of a caveman with image stuff. Thanks for the information. I suspect PSE can do a lot of this; I am still learning it and the Word process is quick though apparently destructive. I also print a bunch on a sheet so I can choose the best one that prints.
Gordon, the term horribly complicated is probably one of the first taught to computer programmers (as a goal, not to avoid)
Chuck, please feel to e-mail or phone if you want any tips about working with images. Same for anyone else who wants a quick primer. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on May 07, 2012, 12:19:02 PM
...
I've never used it but maybe Photoshop Elements would allow you to do one or two of those things ...
Quote from: Chuck Doan on May 07, 2012, 12:31:27 PM
... I suspect PSE can do a lot of this; ...
As my Photoshop is not compatible with my actual OS anymore, I gave Photoshop Elements a try ... IMHO (I'm not a professional PS user) PSE is basically similar to PS and I would recommend it ...
HTH
Cheers
I use PSE for my images (the ones you see on my website).
It does not do as much as the regular PS but as far as I am concerned does more than enough!
Then again I try to take good images ;)
-Marty
Wonderful work on the light and sign Chuck. And thanks for the sbs, there's a lot of us techno cavemen out here. You've proven that there's more than one way to skin a cat.
Thanks Chester! I have done all those things in PSE now that I think it over. Maybe next time.
A modeller named Bill Gill contacted me and sent a link to some possibly better tape to use:
http://www.thelibrarystore.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C85415%7C142914&id=4776
I have had no issues with the Scotch Magic tape, but you never know. This kind of tape seems purpose made for what I am doing.
The problem with most tapes is deterioration. They are okay for a few years, then dry out, shrink, and lose adhesion. Some 3M tapes, like the 467 double sided stuff better laser kit manufacturers use, seem to be relatively permanent; I have fifteen year old kits showing no sign of deterioration. I don't know how Magic Tape holds up. I used 3M Carpet Tape on a test piece a year ago but heard it may last only about five years.
I hope some of that info will be helpful to one or two of you.
Russ
Just goes to show. Don't out live your tape!!!! :)
Jerry
Well that is just awe-inspiring! But then that is the norm for you. :)
As a side not re the question on siding. To adegree it depends on what period and local you are representing (and vernacular/stylistic variations), and what siding style/pattern/profile you are representing...but on the general norm, clapboard and shiplap sidings, or lap sidings, tended to be from 3/4" to 1" at their thickest. However, certain sidings/profiles have a rabbet detail at the bottom, which will accept the top edge of the board below...this rabbet/edge, is typically around 3/8 to 1/2" thick, thus leaving a around 3/8 to 1/2 inch bottom edge "exposed to weather".
M
Thanks for the info Marc! I haven't become crazy enough to try tapering the clapboards (yet).
The annual orgy of auto racing provided some good modeling time this weekend. I added another sign and a sealed electric meter socket to the right side. The sign was made the same way as the previous one with the exception of a wood frame this time. The Coke portion was another mostly weathered web find. I only needed to do a little more rusting and it was done.
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The meter socket was turned from .156 O.D. brass tubing. A slug of turned clear sprue was used to make the plastic cover used to seal unused meters. These often crazed thus obscuring the interior details (or in this case the lack of them). The top and bottom connectors were turned from .04 styrene hex stock. The conduit is .015 brass wire with clamps made from aluminum foil. The same thick paint N pick method I used on my Groveland Garage worked here for the ratty conduit covering. The weatherhead (power inlet) was made from styrene shapes with brass wires for the disconnected power feeds. I used a Flickr search to find examples of the meter, conduit and weatherhead.
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Your starting to get the hang of this little 1:48 stuff!
Really pretty!
are you using a macro lens, or just a basic?????
-Mj
The execution belies the scale. Satisfactory. -- Russ
Thanks!
Marty my camera has two macro settings (no interchangeable lenses :'(). I used the first one for the top shot taken about 8" away. The bottom shot was on the second setting taken about 3" away. I can get as close a 1/2" but the second setting shots are almost always distorted requiring a fix in Photoshop. I pretty much only use macro mode for my model shots. My Fuji-san is getting pretty tired at 7 years old!
Holy carp! That looks SO real! This would be top-notch work in 1/24th -- the fact that it's just 1/48th is mind-blowing.
That is just so unbelievable. With the extra detail it brings out the under the clapboard detail that I took for granted last pictures.
Just a "Master" doing his thing!!!
Jerry
I'll give the usual 'fantastic work!' to everything coming from Mr. Doan. It looks just too real to say "unreal!"
Superb workmanship and attention to detail it definitely keeps us on our toes not to omit even the smallest of detail and get my rivets in the wright place!!
Fantastic stuff Mr Chuck I have learnt a lot.
Thanks Barney
Quote from: Barney on May 30, 2012, 09:16:36 AM
Superb workmanship and attention to detail it definitely keeps us on our toes not to omit even the smallest of detail and get my rivets in the wright place!!
Fantastic stuff Mr Chuck I have learnt a lot.
Thanks Barney
And just think , Barney , it has all been achieved without the use of any Humbrol paint . Will wonders ever cease ? See you up in "The Frozen North " on Saturday . I'll pack my thermals ,
Nick
Fantastic work as usual Chuck.
As for the building is there a particular reference picture you work from or is it just a combination of various pictures found on the Internet ????
Anders
I can't believe I've been missing out on this thread. Thanks for the link Doug and great work as usual Chuck.
Travis in Tempe
Thanks very much all!
Anders I am just using a lot of different details to freelance this place.
I used Humbrol years ago on a 1/76 tank. I took forever to dry and it was glossy. So I put it under my desk lamp since it made such a nice little heat dome...and of course it melted. Not sure if the shock of it all is what has kept me away from that paint since.
Remarkable work, Chuck, very inspiring. Thank you for 'splainin' how you did some of your techniques, most helpful. I want to try the technique you described for galvanized steel sheet. It's impossible to model a convincing mining camp without galvanized metal sheeting, and you really know your sheet! ::)
Thanks Verne!
The right side of my store looked a little bare, so I added a chimney. This was my first time modeling bricks, so I went to the Westlake Forum and reviewed the posts on making/coloring bricks. I also downloaded a chart that someone had posted showing brick sizes (thanks!) Then I re-read Nick's article on bricks in the 2012 Modelers Annual. Finally I visited My Friend Flickr and found many pictures of old brick chimneys and the country stores who loved them.
I then made a 3D model using Solidworks. I chose the Standard brick size and a mortar gap of a scale ½". I just made simple straight patterns although I could have done some more random spacing as taught by Nick, but I didn't think it would show up in O scale (it would have.) I sent the model to Shapeways and had it printed in their FUD material. I was glad when they delivered it on the exact day promised this time (I hope that's the new normal for them). I did the usual sanding of the layer lines on the brick faces and then cleaned it thoroughly with Acetone. Using a sharp file and an X-Acto knife I added some general distressing and chips to many of the brick edges and faces (The FUD material is easy to carve).
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I gave it a primer coat of flat black spray and when dry, a base coat of Polly Scale Chromate Primer. This was followed by brushing individual bricks with various brick looking Polly reds, oranges and browns. Then I added mortar using wallboard joint compound. This was wiped on and then wiped off with a damp sponge. When dry, a dusting of grey pigment powders started the mortar coloring. The final brick coloring was done with gouache and wet and dry pigment and pastel powders. Wet powders usually dry to a horrible color, but with some secondary working using water applied with a small brush and a sharp toothpick, I was pleased with the result. A final low pressure soda blast further flattened the finish. The mortar was then darkened more with pin washes of Silverwood or Weather-all.
I added a stove pipe using etched aluminum tube weathered with gouache and powders. The cement cap was made with wallboard compound that was slathered on and carved to shape when dry.
Based on reference photos I added some questionable patching and sealing cement between the bricks and the siding. The sloppiness may seem exaggerated, but I found numerous examples of this kind of workmanship. I don't know why the sealing was done, because I found many chimneys that were not sealed. I also added the requisite white paint slop. Some of the mortar was carved out to simulate old joints just like Nicks bricks.
Now that it's installed, I need to add roof flashing and some touch up on the corners. Hopefully I can do more brickwork sometime, maybe in a larger scale.
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Looks great!
Unfortunately I really think you need a whole building........
Also you should have made a mold so we could all give it a try!
How much was the "part"?
-Marty
Thanks Marty. It was about 20 bucks with shipping. Shapeways has a thing where I could share the 3D model and anyone could order it from them. I didn't think it would be too interesting since it was made to fit a specific model (and it only has 3 sides with bricks).
A whole building needs a whole roof and I hate doing roofs. This one already has too much. But I agree with you.
Here is an example of some fine masonry....
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Nice brick work Chuck. I really like the way you did the chimmey to the wood it looks exactly like the real fine masonary chimmey.
Jerry
The way you added mortar suggests imperfection in the bricks, too. It really works. -- Russ
It never ceases to amaze me how everything you model turns to gold. Great work - again!
Chuck, the wallboard joint compound looks real good ;) never heard of anyone useing this before. Chimmey and the brickwork is a nice touch.
That turned out great!
Quote from: Chuck Doan on June 25, 2012, 10:09:27 AM
Thanks Marty. It was about 20 bucks with shipping. Shapeways has a thing where I could share the 3D model and anyone could order it from them. I didn't think it would be too interesting since it was made to fit a specific model (and it only has 3 sides with bricks).
A whole building needs a whole roof and I hate doing roofs. This one already has too much. But I agree with you.
Here is an example of some fine masonry....
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Chuck ,
Have you been sneaking around my house again with your camera ? !
Your chimney has turned out looking really good , but we wouldn't expect to see anything less. It also looks alot easier to construct than my long winded method , although I am glad to see that my little article was of some use to you .
Incidentally , the way you set out the bricks on your chimney is the only logical way of doing it so there would have been no need to do anything more elaborate .
Nick
Thanks very much!
Sorry Nick, I didn't want to embarass you. 8) Seriously, your article was a big help. Your bricks have the advantage of great colour to start with. I went cross-eyed several times staring at those tiny bricks while adding the finish.
Craig, I don't know if the wallboard compound has any advantage over other materials; it was pre-mixed and on my shelf so I gave it a try. It can be easily removed with a damp sponge even when dry which can be good or bad depending on what your trying to achieve.
Smokin! Well, pretty simple little change actually ... but seems like it'll be a nice compositional element to help frame the whole thing. Lookin' good. --- Dallas
Chuck,
I am really surprised at your approach here! The outcome is excellent as usual, but I would have expected the bricks to be made from anything but 3D printing. Just thinking about how involved your process on the foundation of the garage diorama was. But I guess it comes down to efficiency after all. You choose your tools wisely!
Thanks Dallas, it does make a nice edge when things are cropped.
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Thanks Christian, it was a sudden decision and I wanted to try some 3D printing again.
That is pretty impressive, lovely touch with the tree shadow ....... Sure am glad I don't model buildings think I would just give up after seeing this.
Difficult to think of anything else to say when you are confronted by perfection.
Great shot, and the shadow is a brilliant touch. There's nothing in that image that gives it away as a model.
Very nice, Chuck.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here's a good reference photo.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Chuck, I'm sorry to say that, after studying Gordon's reference photo, I'm afraid you may have omitted a nail hole. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on July 03, 2012, 12:31:59 AM
Chuck, I'm sorry to say that, after studying Gordon's reference photo, I'm afraid you may have omitted a nail hole. -- Russ
Clean your glasses , Grandad , the nail hole is there but it is just covered with paint !
Superlative! ... Other than that, I simply don't have the words.
Thanks very much! I should have taken a picture of the set-up; the tree is an old mangy Sweetwater sagebrush with crispy foam leaves. But it still throws a mean shadow.
Russ, I did remember the Pore Key hole in case I ever decide to re-paint (obscure "Green Acres" reference)
Hell I was going to ask you for the address of this place. So the next time I was in Ca. I could go take some pictures of it.
As usual you still are amazing. Great model even a better picture.
Jerry
Super stuff - can not stop dribbling
Barney
Well, when you do stop dribbling, please clean up the floor. -- ssuR
I have no doubt that those who aren't familiar with this thread, would look at that last photo with the great tree shadow across, it and have no problems saying it was a real old structure...not a 1/48 capture of one. Perfect result to my eye Chuck!
Cheers,
Dan
Hi Chuck
I just love the last photo with the tree shadow. This does look absolutely real. In fact more alive, more lovely than the real thing! It is art, and the best kind.
Cheers
John
Chuck....can´t you put in a crappy figure in this diorama so we all know it´s a model ???? Superb work!
Anders
Thanks you guys! I have a feeling there are suddenly a bunch of trees surrounding that store! I'll try not to overdo it though. ;)
I found that a foam earplug helped apply gouache and powders to the ridges of the corrugated. The earplug was unused; I'll let others test the efficacy of earwax in the weathering process. :P
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Huh? What? Ear plugs? Speak up! ;D
Clever source for more little sponges ...
-- Dallas
Can you say that a little slower. I didn't catch all of it!!!!! ;D
Nice find Chuck.
What brand are they I want to buy stock in the company. I'm sure everyone will be using them now.
Jerry
Thanks...THANKS! Good question Jerry. I bought a big bag at Rocklers (woodworkers supply) some years back. No brand info, sorry.
Interesting pallet you're using, too.
The need for 16 roof panels (only 3 done) sent my interest plummeting. I hate roofs. So as the sun sets over the Smokey Mountains, we bid adieu to this project; this one has risen before; it may again, but for now it is on to bigger and hopefully better things.
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It's like saying good-bye to an old friend. Anyway thanks for all the ideas and a wonderful thread it was.
Jerry
I have no idea what to say here ... but I'm sure it'll be very nice when I think of it! ;D -- Dallas
Don't wimp out on this project, you lazy bum! Take a break until the weather cools down and attack again! -- Russ
Chuck - I know that feeling the difference being with my models they hit the bin were you put them away for another day -but give us some hope and keeping sending something to inspire us and please relieve us of the suspense of your "bigger and better projects for the future" I'm dribbling already just of the thought of another work of art from the master of inspiration
Barney
waiting and dribbling
Well marc i understand........
Hopefully you will pick it up again.
;)
That last photo is fantastic, Chuck.
Thanks for posting the ear-plug pic, too. It provides a sense
of scale that makes the project even more amazing.
Quote from: lab-dad on July 21, 2012, 05:18:25 AM
Well marc i understand........
Hopefully you will pick it up again.
;)
Marc? Did I miss something ?