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Feldbahnmodule with ship

Started by fspg2, April 21, 2011, 12:42:16 AM

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Ray Dunakin

I really love watching this all come together!
Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

finescalerr

Don't encourage him. His work is so good it is disconcerting! -- Russ

fspg2

@Ray + Russ
Sometimes encouragement is very helpful :-)


The two floating container carried the bridge with two columns of four L-profiles.
On each side rolls were placed with 30 cm in diameter and about 2.5 cm in width.
They were conducted in corresponding U-profiles. Therefore the float glides smoothly in the shaft and does not hit the wall.


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Four 8 x 8 x 3 mm brass sockets were equipped with four 0.5 mm L-shaped grooves which will serve for secure attachment of the supports to the float.

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Frithjof

marc_reusser

#153
looks beautiful. Stunning attention to detail and craftsmanship (but nothing less is expected from you :) )

Curious, why use Nickel-Silver sheet for the float shell, instead of brass?

I wish I had more to say or offer. The build and sbs you are posting is completely enthralling...very educational...and so far above my skill level and capabilities, that it isn't even funny. :)



I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

Barney

This is modelling with a difference with standards and techniques of the highest I and Im sure others have lernt a lot
Barney

fspg2

@ Marc + Barney
Thanks for your words of praise. Each of us has his strengths. I'm always open-mouthed in front of your great designs, here I need to catch up!

1.   Nickel silver is firmer than brass. (0.3 mm nickel silver plate is comparable to a brass plate with 0.5 mm).
2.   Pressed rivets look simple rounder and cleaner in nickel silver.
3.   If paint is scraped, no yellow brass is lightning through.

Volker gave notice that the attachment of the supports maybe not modeled accordingly.

At the time of construction of the lift bridge in 1899, all pieces were riveted. The base soccets (picture No. 26) should have been welded - but that was not possible at this time. I have to agree with Volker.

Although there is a drawing, which shows a solution with a band profile around the float,


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but on any photo, there was a indication like this. All plotted diameter show no peripheral profile band. Unfortunately I have no real detail drawings of this area... it's been a burden, if you count the rivets: wink:

A letter of 1948 describes the desolate status of the bridge  after WW2. Here the idea for my execution was given:


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So the base and the columns were replaced after 1945 by the City Council ... at this time they could be riveted as well as welded ...


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Slowly it comes out of the ground in the open pit, the supports will be cut on next weekend.


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Frithjof

fspg2

To solder a few items together only, I draw up the two lower L-profiles in one sketch:


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A 3mm brass sheet was fixed with double-adhesive film to a MDF board. Next I attached the plate to the milling machine.

First the holes were drilled (light green). Next I milled the dark green area as a pocket 2.5 mm deep.


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After cutting the outer contour with a 1.5 mm-cutter (several passes in 0.8 mm steps) I got  the finished profiles (yellow and red) .


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On the following  picture you can see the profiles assembled loosely. They fit neatly into each other thanks to CAD.


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The next step will be the ,,cross".


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Frithjof

Ray Dunakin

Holy cow, that is incredible milling! Such close tolerances on such small pieces!
Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

fspg2

@Ray
I'm always pleased when I see these results are produced by such a simple "cheese" milling machine.

Today only a small update:
Last weekend I finished the "cross" quickly. 3mm brass material was used as before. Initially I milled a pocket  0.5 mm deep to get the required height of 2.5 mm. Then the 2mm holes were drilled , a V-cutter did cut a groove of 0.1 mm deep and a 1mm milling cutter did the rest.

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The used 1mm cutter produced 0.5 mm radii in the corners. To get square corners I lined up all parts to a 2mm wire and putted this unit to my mini vice. 


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Next will follow a jig for the screws.
Frithjof

finescalerr

Can you believe this guy? He must be a genius with an electron microscope to create that stuff. -- Russ

Malachi Constant

Yeah, not only that ... but all the thought & planning that goes into this stuff.  Looking at the big things and breaking them down into every little bit ... and then figuring out the intricacies of each bit.  Amazing!  :o  -- Dallas
-- Dallas Mallerich  (Just a freakin' newbie who stumbled into the place)
Email me on the "Contact Us" page at www.BoulderValleyModels.com

lab-dad

Thanks for showing the "set-up" I am sure learning a lot from your posts!
-Marty

marc_reusser

I am having modeling apoplexy.  :-X
I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

fspg2

#163
@Russ, Dallas, Marty, Marc

Some parts are getting smaller as I get older. It´s probably my eyes.


The four guide rails in the shaft must be mounted exactly at 90 degrees.


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Therefore I have milled two 1.5 mm brass plates and put both together. For aligning two 3mm brass plates were grooved at right angles additionaly.


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Then all parts were assembled. They sit inside each other very tightly. Later I can take apart the pieces and use them again.


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At this moment the guide rails will be inserted loosely. So they can still be removed if the shaft gets his color.


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The following parts of the wall will be glued after the further guide rails are machined and assembled to the sample. So I will get clean transitions between the stones and the guide rail.



A little preview of what's next:

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Frithjof

Chuck Doan

"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/