Westlake Publishing Forums

Dear Ladies and Gentlemen,

sometimes I feel some kind of painful sorrow about how traceless things disappear, except a few pieces, standing alone like baffled witnesses of a long gone era. This may have been the impetus for my interest in modeling a small part of the Plettenberger Kleinbahn. My friend Wolf Groote has written a book about the railway and knows it from own sight. His huge archive of pictures, plans and documents is my cornerstone - as I did not experience neither place nor time.

During work at the Exercise module (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1983.0) I started with research, plans, sketches, CAD's and development of single pieces for this project. Please let me show you some pics of my favorite prototype situation. The railway ran on top of the Mühlendamm with a siding along Oester brook and mill race in front of a rather industrial backdrop. The tracks turned with a tight curve to a small bridge over Oester brook and to the Maiplatz, which is the central urban square.

First of all the plan of site. Trackage is red. I added the post office:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Lageplan_M_hlendamm.jpg&hash=f6bb9e2da656f69e0f48e33e3e873bae933edb4c)

View towards Mühlendamm with siding:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715IMG_0004.jpg&hash=b39d6398a319dd08da614001998d5d35f536bfdd)
Foto: Gerd Wolff

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715Save0067.JPG&hash=3878d1103f604fc65305fad7a7d9a5917ee7f12a)
Foto: Albert Middermann, Slg. W. Groote

Oesterbrücke, left hand section of the post office:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715PKB_Foto_W_Biedenkopf_03_04_1954.jpg&hash=2e020992abc363bfe12550a5b0ac6b7e4591bf55)
Foto: W. Biedenkopf, 03.04.1954

Running over the bridge to Maiplatz:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715PKB1-Maiplatz-_sterbr_cke_-Foto-G_-Wolff-03_03.jpg&hash=11e6003d2dc60e1abaa124ea8f712325a4a8a004)
Foto: G. Wolff

In the very beginning it was clear that modeling the trackage would be the biggest challenge as there's no suitable material available in 1:22.5 scale at all. I needed (and still need) a lot of support for that project, as I don't have all the technical possibilities that are needed. A few people helped and help to build parts I can't do myself. My part was to convince those guys. Nutballs like me. It helps to talk the same language. No, not German. Thank you, guys!

Cheers,
Volker

Neat little railroad! Is that "boxcab" an enclosed steam loco?

That post office looks vaguely familiar. Perhaps the guys here will recognize it when the new Modelers' Annual comes out. -- Russ

A wonderful subject. So much character, with great views, details, structures, etc. Building this to the level that you did on the exercise module will result in a truly fantastic and stunning layout.

So very much look forward to learning and seeing more of the history of this line, and how you will go about building it.

Ray,

yes, they were enclosed 0-2-0 superheated steam locos, 6 of them in the last years of the railway and all built by Henschel between 1913 and 1927. Weight was between 20 and 22.7 to. The wheel base was 1.50 m so they were able to manage the tight curves down to 12 m radius. One of those locos survived at the DEV historical railway (http://www.museumseisenbahn.de/index.php/en/) in northern Germany. This year, 50 years after the farewell ride, it returned for a few weeks to Plettenberg and ran on the Sauerländer Kleinbahn (http://www.sauerlaender-kleinbahn.de/home/en/), which is situated close to Plettenberg, but unfortunately doesn't use any of the former embankments of the Kleinbahn, but a former standard gauge line. See a video of the loco running at this museum:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_kWVkHVZc8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_kWVkHVZc8).

Russ,

you should trust your forum members' apprehension. It rather depends on the print quality of your book :D.

Marc,

I learned a lot during my time with the exercise module and by participating in this forum. I hope not to disappoint your expectations. They are mine, too. :)

Maybe there'll be some repetition from other posts. Please don't mind. It belongs here.

One of my first attempts was to do some reverse engineering for the bridge. Fortunately there are a few vertical shots with good objects of comparison and - even better - some pics of dismantling the bridge. At this time one year ago I didn't know too much about CAD and so I made all drawings 2D with Macromedia Freehand.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Oesterbr_cke_Freehand.jpg&hash=dcc4ef6e3ef804f90bf00f01924e6cc658be8b06)

Next step was to "translate" those 2D drawings of a 3D object into 2D Drawings for milling the different material thicknesses. Helmut and Frithjof did several attempts to use them, but the milling software has a lot of problems to translate it.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Oesterbr_cke_Produktion_Frithjof.jpg&hash=9f935f0322a61e37cb233eeaf056b2a3388b9be3)

So I decided to redo everything in CAD, which I command now. I'm not too far with this. There were some other challenges.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Oesterbr_cke.jpg&hash=e31ba46fa15885329fba5e706a9fea8be4af225a)

My very first 3D object was a steel sleeper, that I had drawn once with SketchUp and then redone in CAD. As mentioned in the exercise module thread I'm going to build the trackage to scale. So my gauge isn't 45 mm but 44.5 mm. The groove width of the rails is 1.7 mm.

The siding on the Mühlendamm had those steel sleepers. The track height of "Preußen Form 6" corresponds roughly to Code 250. But the rail base is far to thick, as you can see in this comparison of Code 250 and a conversion to scale (in the background).

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Stahlschwelle_Form_50_gekappt_mit_Hakenplatte_IIm_vs_Ma_stab.png&hash=2f13722b7b6d9e606e4260e413c0503e8c6266f8)

That's what the sleeper finally looked like in CAD:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Schwelle_3d-Druck.jpg&hash=f6d6d7569f279662a00130d111a4f90d5bbb0ea9)

The sleeper is the German "Form SW50 mit Haarmann'scher Hakenplatte". All pieces are exactly constructed to scale. But there were more difficulties with the rails: Helmut helps and mills down the rail base to scale.

Next step was a cheap low resolution print, colored with water color:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Schwelle1.jpg&hash=69c91da729f5b9f861c8d80dffd68de808ccb613)

And this is what it looks like with Helmut's milled rails. Apart from the far too thick rail web (which you don't see when built in) this looks like a rail for me.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5075.JPG&hash=74e1357543714f28012c4643301d4228c2480651)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5111.JPG&hash=483fda61ce6a83058adf946f42d6693120e1ab4b)

The surface recalls strong corrosion, but the details were not clear enough. Printing all 100 sleepers was no financial option anyways. So I had another high resolution print.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6015b.jpg&hash=65c2bfcf7922aaa2dff96e5d755d47ab30a1b32f)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6038B.jpg&hash=7fbf77a78fe9a3a0951eeb962db042cea4d2fad8)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6040B.jpg&hash=d96c3766914e8b65def2875a2530eb2b6257af0b)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6043B.jpg&hash=78598a0eb7aed8e89b18215b194b67158d357b8d)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6044B.jpg&hash=44fee627f8950b10302e6bc9e2a22c3eac135162)

This print has been slightly smoothened with an exacto and some sanding as there were some layer lines on the slopes. This master form then has been casted 100 times with resin by the company, which had done the high res print.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6571b.JPG&hash=6128ed7a8f7f361a7be5e1a0d043a574a5ac1c4e)

All sleepers were a bit warped but I could fix that easily with a hair dryer.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6570b.JPG&hash=540323d1988edcdc9e3e37b10e551d4d21e3247d)

Next step were the rail joints.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Winkellasche_Code_250.jpg&hash=d9904e21c1e0cf91d8525733e202ce4d992e6058)

Combined with some other pieces like fish plates, joints for grooved rail, gauge bars and brake blocks (what? Brake blocks?) I had those items printed via shapeways.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715Zusammenstellung_Resin_und_MS_Guss_Shapeways_neu.jpg&hash=ac15e5e412d254a5b5c24745936ccb620292b763)

That's the result in FUD:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6607b.JPG&hash=ce64185e81c2fdd4635e6d4c43b730975c3e9af5)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6605b.JPG&hash=40e5c24d4781a57f1761fcfc7f8ce088cc10707c)

After I had removed some wax stains with warm water and detergent all parts were clear and sharp, apart from the printing lines, that one can remove easily on even surfaces. Did some more at the master forms for the brass castings after I had seen the pics:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6624b.JPG&hash=4a25d65cd2ae607d3e88a377cf6b98599074910d)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6621b.JPG&hash=e5b8702ca21d2846814c8d8240eae5784c4b1871)

The biggest problem of all was the grooved rail. Of course I had done the CAD, but there was no way for an affordable production. There's no possibility to pull or press those profiles. I had some offers for eroding; costs 13.000,- € for 6 meters.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Gleisjoch_NP4a_IIm.jpg&hash=2c4723bf05012ea019d34380a1efec57deba241d)

Good to have friends:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6708b.JPG&hash=1857f69352f73c1f752caf8a67ef37e88d985955)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6711b.JPG&hash=516e3c58f983bcbea3bd4f86200ef9acddc34995)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6712b.JPG&hash=0409a03482bd5ab47423e3efcbaf43153fbd274a)

This is from a guy who works with a five axle CNC mill. It's the transition of the Plettenberg rail profile NP4a to scale, apart from the web, which is 0.3 mm too thick (0.8 instead of 0.5). Otherwise he could not have done it. Believe me: We fought for every tenth. The material is steel CK45, an easily millable sort.

Please compare with standard trackage:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6732b.JPG&hash=d365b116828e2262a83d2ab9c47c3955ad5017ea)

From left to right: Peco nickel silver silver code 250, Miha/Llagas Creek stainless steel code 250, Peco nickel silver code 250 with soldered angle section for grooved rail (in the next post I'll continue with that), "my" rail, LGB brass code 332.

Have fun.

Volker

Fantastic & interesting!. Thanks.

Outstanding! I am a bit jealous too! That's the best way to use the 3D printing.

Marvelous work, especially those high resolution sleepers! It's amazing how much realism and detail one can achieve by this method.

WOW! -- Russ

Looks great but are you sure the rails are vertical?  Most rails should be set at an angle to match the wheels.

Jim,

yes, I am sure. And you're right, too. Prototype vignol (flat bottom) rails are laid with an angle corresponding to the wheels' tread to avoid sine running of the wheels, at least in Europe. The rail itself doesn't have that angle. Does anybody know how it is in the States? If you look carefully at the steel sleepers you'll see the sloped rail beds. Not so with grooved rails, where the flanges only have a few mm for side movement: Those are mounted rectangular. They are laid down to the ground without sleepers if mounted in tarmac or cobblestone.

Volker

Hi Volker

Awsome your grooved rails and your 3D objects! (Kompromissloser Modellbau!!!).
There would be some subjects in my neighborhood too for such marvelous rails...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi240.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff181%2FPeter_T1958%2Fwww%2F26537cbe-62b0-4e1d-b28c-21beaab6ea15_zps3564e299.jpg%7Eoriginal&hash=b852e6a5c7fe536c42c3e3ac485b8cbd481af8fa) (http://s240.photobucket.com/user/Peter_T1958/media/www/26537cbe-62b0-4e1d-b28c-21beaab6ea15_zps3564e299.jpg.html)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi240.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff181%2FPeter_T1958%2Fwww%2F7c1a288f-2731-4ee0-a5be-960e6cda1a95_zps48ba3c9e.jpg%7Eoriginal&hash=5842bb3a1c50672aface710dbb2d9a7570bae06e) (http://s240.photobucket.com/user/Peter_T1958/media/www/7c1a288f-2731-4ee0-a5be-960e6cda1a95_zps48ba3c9e.jpg.html)

... but the scale ist too large for me! Huh, good excuse not to start with model trains also  ;D

Seriously, I like a lot such modelling subjects with regional roots as you are doing!

Congrats,
Peter

Gidday Volker

I love the rail. What length of rail is your friend able to mill and how long does it take to produce each length? Can he mill a complete piece of rail in one set up?

Kevin,

glad you like it! The rail length is 533,3 mm which is 12 meters at the prototype. 600 mm is the maximum length for the mill. Next week I'll get the first full length piece. It takes an estimated time of 2 to 3 hours to mill one piece and he does it in one set up.

Peter,

thanks for the interesting pics! I'll use those detailed grooved rails only where they are completely visible (on the bridge). There's another solution for the parts in the streets. As long as you don't plan to create a complete layout this scale doesn't have to be too large ...

Marc, Ray and Russ,

thank you for your nice words and, um, sounds.

Chuck,

I don't get the point concerning your jealousy. You do a very good job in 3D construction with even better results.

Cheers,
Volker

Very interesting thread!
That custom milled rail is really something.

regards, Hauk

Thanks Volker.

Hauk,

thank you. I haven't seen that rail modeled before; maybe most people think of rolling stock when talking about railways. But the tracks are all the same interesting to me.

Let's have a look at the switch leading to the bridge.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715Save0067.JPG&hash=3878d1103f604fc65305fad7a7d9a5917ee7f12a)
Foto: Albert Middermann, Slg. W. Groote

Fortunately there's a very similar "Bochumer Verein" switch at the Sauerländer Kleinbahn, which came to the museum from the former "Hohenlimburger Kleinbahn".

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8881%2F5715BP_CM_03_10_12_024.jpg&hash=0ffed6736fa63501d67f473a8e14a0b98669b9e2)
Foto: Wolf Dietrich Groote 2012

Even the installation plan (of a right hand switch) still exists as hard copy.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715scan-10854.jpg&hash=5c57841bde93abb078acc1382db2fced21b55b3d)

I made a scale drawing in Freehand and mirrored it.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715HKB_EW_re_li_1zu6.jpg&hash=0491f7a7c5d29b6c6a393d801b474aab28f6e9d5)

So I could iron a laser print on a piece of birch plywood.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_4964.JPG&hash=a9a00d246dd968ae140322af33560080901ce130)

I do the soldering on another print. Meanwhile I use a thick copper foil between wood and the solder parts to avoid the plywood from catching fire.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_4951.JPG&hash=4c021a5a0a621718f8e3480ad421adab7cc2bf37)

So the plywood is the basis for the switch and my workplace for soldering and mounting the parts. Don't mind the "sleepers". They will not be visable later on. Here you can see the combination of Peco code 250 and angle section 3 x 3 mm to form the grooved rail.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_4966.JPG&hash=7c244c2211a875abc9285a2c8bd5f38d2f4fda65)

Fixing the parts for soldering on a piece of aluminium.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6735b.JPG&hash=00d5f81d81566fa23360b43e0f73a6c756a815e4)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6738b.JPG&hash=6d7273a6546afc9ffb98ddf33a9ab3afffa2c4c3)

If you look carefully at the prototype picture, you can see a completely visible piece of rail at the setting lever. To imitate that I sanded down the rail base and soldered a piece of angle section in place.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6746b.JPG&hash=df929d35ad62218fa04d9fa8342e6cdf632735a2)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6747b.JPG&hash=1f99b36dfac7f21b5d89a278fbb3c6ad32ea366c)

Making the switch blades:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_4983.JPG&hash=fca577db5b65c5fd28ef59bcda502cc0f48f899e)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_4984.JPG&hash=6c0ef14ce93b209758dd147c78c5d62c562f7fe4)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_4986.JPG&hash=bb9cfe430ba8e63226c348e55787db5369a080cf)

A bit burnishing:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6737b.JPG&hash=d977c52519493a2a8257dd766783654dbccd90a8)

Detailing the blade:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6742b.JPG&hash=e37d9c6debab96626463e4cb35d23c60e1858c71)

The insulation is cardboard, drenched with CA. At the prototype there's a joint so I insulated all rails wether necessary or not.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6762b.JPG&hash=2d22cdb37f873bf0ac81072db0627dee9bfe0728)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6761b.JPG&hash=2a7f35ab7aec2c44b8b37a296af121a6c87db289)

Is there anybody interested in a SBS for making German style frogs?

Cheers,
Volker

Nice work! I don't know if I'll ever have the skills and patience to attempt scratch-building a switch.

Is there any trick to soldering the aluminum? I was under the impression that AL is difficult to solder.

Impressive. -- Russ

Nice work.

I notice differences between US style, the main ones being rails on the inside through the points area and the special rails.   Different but similar tie plates.  I like the cast iron box over the mechanism that moves the point rails which can hide whatever you use to move them.   I have always liked making turnouts/switches.

Ray,

thank you. I think you have the skills :). If you get used to soldering a bit it isn't difficult at all. I don't use any mill, only files, jigsaw and a grinding disk with the electric drill. Unfortunately my English isn't too good: The aluminum is the jig to make the soldering - because it doesn't connect with the soldered parts. But you can solder aluminum. It only depends on the right solder and soldering fluid. Here you find a nice range: http://rexin-loettechnik.de/index-e.php (http://rexin-loettechnik.de/index-e.php). I didn't test it, but I did a lot of soldering stainless steel (see the link below in my answer to Max).

Russ,

thanks!

Max,

this is a special switch for use in streets (for streetcars and so on). At the museum they'd use it outside a street. And this one is very special, as it uses flat bottom rail instead of grooved rail. The usual switches look very similar to the US style switches. Biggest difference is the blade, which has another appearance in the States. And you have/had cast frogs including the guard "rails", a sort that wasn't used in Germany at all. If you're interested in that topic please have a look at http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?t=10977 (http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?t=10977). It's in German but maybe you can use Google to translate it. Would be nice to see some of your switches!

Cheers,
Volker

Really lovely work.

Thanks, Marc.

The first switch is finished - at least in relation to the rails and visible iron parts.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6827b.JPG&hash=be8c660820c239d3ae9603645c4ef2586ed126d1)

Those are the pieces for the switch box,

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6792b.JPG&hash=93b2eec0ae39f62c286e1d38db150968926b07b9)

which is installed here. The cast cover is lasered cardboard.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6822b.JPG&hash=26c09f17e485450e58ac927b9cff3eda3a739064)

At the prototype there are distance blocks with ribbed surface at the frog and the blades end, because it's not possible to cobble those areas as the stones would be too small.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6828b.JPG&hash=0c889b264262c6bc7dad6ab30b8d7d7991f61f6a)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6829b.JPG&hash=fa8dac16c4e674650eee7ad05b5ace13a5ef9fc6)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6830b.JPG&hash=89a8dfe5fc8d2a4a9af703a82f7496d59ae8dd7b)

I made the ribbed plates from various PS strips, which were glued to a plate and then cut out as needed.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6797b.JPG&hash=9afbfc081f848cabf0bde0598d178678d7f7bc7e)

Here's the next piece of jewelry:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6757b.JPG&hash=59eb84e822e717b1b9e0de9579efcbc622fb6f8e)

Um, excuse me, wrong picture:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6798b.JPG&hash=115b87f78ccb43bbaab139bbd562aa9d483d296b)

And the switch plan.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6836b.JPG&hash=589b599395a5ff959662432fa26975b686bc1473)

I started some testing for rusting the rails. This one was burnished and then sprinkled with water a few times, but I think there's room for improvement. The rust is too bright (as it is on new rails, which just started to rust). Next test will be without burnishing. Anyway I'll have to preserve the result with mat lacquer to prevend furthermore rusting once it's installed.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6843b.JPG&hash=09e95a36b5ce61079b01b6504db399aa46452bde)

Cheers,
Volker

The whole layout is jewellery!

Most adequate. It pleases the eye. -- Russ

Excellent workmanship.  A beautiful turnout/switch.

You asked to see.  These are little (On30 or HO) using code 70 from Rail Craft, now Micro Engineering.  The 1/2" thick foam the ties are cemented to is perfect because it is tough and firm yet easy to work with and sound deadening.  Too bad I don't know where to get more.  The frogs are the hardest part made from rail soldered to thin brass.  I try to solder jumper wires to the outside so train wheel flanges don't bump them.  I can usually hide the wires like here where it is pushed into a groove in the foam.  The frog is powered by a spdt slide switch connected to the end of the Caboose Industries ground throw. Gonna be making more soon.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi51.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff366%2FDidlika%2FStubswitch1_zpsbb471713.jpg&hash=c76b9a6fdb0665dfc3c1ef81be6f9e1a0daacf9c)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi51.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff366%2FDidlika%2FStubswitch2_zps59ebc81b.jpg&hash=8d20ddb0967c9b64a9fca9625a59d7e5e652b2bf)

Max making paper mock-ups of two structures in MI today.

Thanks, Max. Interesting pics. I wonder why you don't solder the wires to the bottom of the rail base? You wouldn't have problems with flanges and they were nearly invisible.

This is the inside of the switch mechanism. A spring and a switch for frog polarisation are still missing.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6865b.JPG&hash=9f828627394364cf31a785c9bcce8e82adea51bf)

The prototype of the second switch was made by Both & Tilmann. This company used another mechanism to move the blades. The prototype of the switch is from Hohenlimburg (another town - another railway), where I could take some photos during research in a company's archive to find drawings of Plettenberg Rollwagen (yes - we did. Just for teasing you a bit  ::)). I liked it and so now it's placed in Plettenberg. Call it artistic freedom.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5498b1.JPG&hash=4e3de5804de926588b1e0d508f8eb7204ad8439e)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5504b.JPG&hash=b223592e76064e1115a343cef82c1af166db1292)

Those switches are set turning around a key instead of shifting a lever.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6884b.JPG&hash=900df3653e44ffd1057ff4b9bcb9eb411e44c7b9)

So I needed a key.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6872b.JPG&hash=02f39f9aeb4bef96064d91875584631042b33d91)

I hope the pictures do explain how I made it. I found a steel piece of an old micro tool with inside thread that i filed square. The piece was in the vice and I used the drill chuck to move the file up and down.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6866b.JPG&hash=a4e3a1dd5d77e065f102eb8fbe92bc4369606524)

The male part was made by file too.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6867b.JPG&hash=a29ed44fab68ca3833e8e6085f10a3050b10199b)

That's it. The parts are brazed.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6880b.JPG&hash=a365f74b29f0d2816cc107b18f1efdb79f478209)

That's the inlet. I made the crankshaft from a steel shaft and a brass part brazed to it. Then I filed the gap.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6886b.JPG&hash=3fb913e69e06efc1fdfe2c8eec4d57bb3b52a13c)

I hope you can see the principle in spite of the poor pic.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6890b.JPG&hash=89142cf265559cc6b7007e983d0dc7b430ca503e)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6893b.JPG&hash=d390d43f987745a29bf687016ed7269a5e5831a5)

And now a quick look underground: A bit weird but full functional :lol: .

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6895b.JPG&hash=46e544f3e6d6739371eb31db27490645da586c6c)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Stellvorgang.gif&hash=7f8cb65bdb2974bd7f0b58eda53742871dbb5eee)

Cheers,
Volker

Very cool!

BOAH! Angeber! ;) ;D :P

Very cool.

That´s some kind of a switch.........INCREDIBLE!  :o

Anders

Quote from: marc_reusser on November 01, 2013, 02:15:23 AM
BOAH! Angeber! ;) ;D :P

Very cool.

Mark, this is not specified, but of course with Volker.
Simply the fact implemented in the model.
Volker, that's what I like about your work.

yes
these switches are the best i have ever seen in scale-great work
kind regards kim

Ray, Marc, Anders, James, Helmut, Kim,

thank you all very much - I'm a bit overwhelmed. And I hat to laugh out loud about the "Shazam"  :D. I so often would like to be able to do it better than I did, but this poor piece has to work (this one is for Marc ;D).

The second switch is nearly completed. Indeed the prototype starts with a 50 meter radius, changing to 20 meter radius and then running straight through the frog. (Interesting that "frog" = German "Frosch" in our language is used for a little turntable for mining or industrial light railways, which you can position anywhere on the tracks by hand. The German word for "frog" is "Herzstück" (something like "core heart", meaning something like "most important piece").

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6902b.JPG&hash=2e475f8b62b4e9f0f061adcf08c0eb91faa7a587)

The extremely worn out prototype had some additional distance blocks in the blades' area with the cipher of the manufacturer Both & Tilmann.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5494b1.JPG&hash=002e7ddb6f1d7103424263bdcdac72c6684f5d10)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6908b.JPG&hash=a8d7e978b634cf2d63989dce2d5254e9141bfb4a)

The rib pattern is made from Copper wire, that I bended around the part, soldered it and then filed it down.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6896b.JPG&hash=e7e99400fe7dc4d4a553b3891c8cddd69792eb71)

The distance blocks at the frog are made from cardboard plates and ribs, drenched with CA and then filed to shape.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6909b.JPG&hash=be5473afb8d858bc9ec43aac36126076207d273b)

So the first stretch of track is done.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6904b.JPG&hash=3f9d1060f0e0c7e1650d3f21129fd1511dd3c268)

What you can't see in the picture is the wavy trackage, lowering a whiff at each rail joint. My hope is not only to have some nice photos later on, but to have at least some prototypical movements of the train - aside of running forth and back  ::) - for shooting.

I'm never to sure how long my constructions may last when they are in use. Building this way sometimes means to relinquish easy maintenance access. I'd really like to start modeling the street at this state, but there are more tracks to come. And I'll have to decide how I can segment the area I want to model. I really don't like those visible module edges - and I'm not too willing to separate tracks outside the rail joints.

Cheers,
Volker

Outstanding.

The word "Herzstück" makes much more sense and offers a much better description than "frog". No wonder I drive a German car ....

Russ

Lovely attention to that detail...and brilliant tip about how you did the ribs. Thanks.....I know it will come in handy someday.

Thanks, Russ and Marc. Meanwhile the first stretch of steel sleeper track is done. Thanks again to Helmut, who milled down the rail base to scale.

The rails tend to bend away from the milled side so I had to straighten them by hand in the vice. I soldered a piece of angle section under one end of the rail for relieving the track fastenings of the somewhat delicate resin sleepers. When mounting the track there'll be additional blocks under the sleepers to settle the distance to the wooden plate - also for relieving the sleepers.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6911b.JPG&hash=def30db82e2511ceb1a41a56658e1d0101bdaf10)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6913b.JPG&hash=026c5fbf8834b5477baaf517eae0cd34c402ccdb)

Cheers,
Volker

Hi,

I spent a ridiculous amount of time with the drains topic. It started with handmade examples, which you can see at buntbahn here (http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?t=10902&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0) in the very first post and here (http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?p=290287#290287) with a SBS. But I was interested in other shapes beyond the opportunitys of scissors and paper, for example the switch box covers for this project.

First I tried etching technology. But there's a quandary of either pin sharp edges or high etching depth. This is 0.5 mm nickel silver. At the upper square cover the square risings tend to blur to undefined knobs.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8859%2F5715IMG_4897.JPG&hash=02d577e8a638f07e87fe432ff459536a2b37d3e5)

You have to double up the material for realistic dimensions, which is easy, but very expensive in nickel silver. For that I tried lasered cardboard to double up the etched pieces. Please excuse the lousy pics.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5222b.jpg&hash=ca3df19bf608dc9cc5c7ea9f165894fb72b9f53c)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5224b.jpg&hash=e707c31e0921d2b533ae17e13797ea4e68d22428)

But I didn't like that either for there's a lot of work to do at the edges. Etched and lasered parts from the same set of files can't be congruent. The laser beam makes a wider cut the thicker the material is. But I was amazed of the clean cut items and so I'd have the complete cover lasered. Etched part is above, lasered below:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6077b.jpg&hash=cd4bc71c33e5ec022aa7a29a08d06177bdfcf0b2)

That's what I was looking for. High image sharpness combined with high cutting depth. I feel that even the surface of the cardboard works better to represent cast iron than the nickel silver, which seems too smooth to me. You can use nail enamel, thinned with acetone, to make the cardboard more stable and somewhat waterproof. At least enough to treat it with acrylics and wet in wet with water color. If one uses less thinner the nail enamel may even serve as filler for the uneven surface.

Just to get you bored a qick snapshot of my portfolio, starting with the switch box cover by Both & Tilmann:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6313b.JPG&hash=af3f7663308d475714a1ae514742e109812eaeb1)

Same item, another provider: Bochumer Verein.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6320b.JPG&hash=6f1a590fbce918849afc30528205abc501d34ad5)

Dewatering covers for grooved rail:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6336b.JPG&hash=0441f011bd3a41639b102d1b6159b3d3761a83df)

And a small and modern kind of that:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6350b.JPG&hash=6e7fb70eb336f0be27b6286e68add3c134e82316)

This is an original Plettenberg item, a sidewalk integrated drain by Schütte Meyer & Co from Letmathe:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6362b.JPG&hash=08cdf8173b6ec0b11040f7b2fb2602f630b131d5)

And the next both are from my hometown Wiesbaden, but they were typical for many other German cities:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6352b.JPG&hash=a69efbd7143f3c12fb2bfa098057c90e9cefb04b)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6358b.JPG&hash=f63a484c7f6dd36fea21754714e27d32d7c75303)

Grid drains:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6322b.JPG&hash=eabab6ac1fab1e7d5da1ae19f3081a26cc15aee5)

And the manhole covers; please compare with the etched part from above:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6326b.JPG&hash=03a1bc96fe6c8f3da003b0d5570647679105998e)

This is my favorite:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6324b.JPG&hash=5c7a61da44857ee47224c074160e899768fa1e92)

Fireplug covers:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6344b.JPG&hash=edd6edaf05402bae971eb025b6281229270fe877)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6340b.JPG&hash=d71bcab8cdc1e5d6f16b365a2185c6b8e8de89fe)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6356b.JPG&hash=c294ebc79ecf440376f6d688609aa9a0c349fe92)

Cover for drain ventilation (mounted in the middle of the street to avoid compressed air in the drain system):

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6331b.JPG&hash=b7452876734a43a619b44170f76001ae2f208dfd)

Triangulation point:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6334b.JPG&hash=28e1fcd874438287c89aeca58104a744ec56a847)

Floor squeegee (oh lord, please let this be the right translation):

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6342b.JPG&hash=b5e511a8b1b2c34a1d1cf9a41231f4ec9c0f6c42)

Cover for rainwater drain:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6346b.JPG&hash=128a06b7c36ba1ccfea066ecae53c0fcf0f5c5d9)

For a variety of reasons I searched for another provider. I think it was worth while. Above is the new version, below the old one.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6998b.JPG&hash=f8bac72e5ad456009346feca37a2b05bf109e45f)

Cheers,
Volker

Wow, those look great!

Amazing how such utilitarian things can be so lovely.
Amazing work
Marty

Amazing!

Yet another perfect example of the skilled use of modern technologies.

Fantastic results with the laser cutting.

Is the new laser provider using the same material as the first? The detail is so much more refined and realistic.

Are you showing off again, Volker? I think your perfection has exceeded my ability to tolerate it! -- Russ

Thanks, guys. Much appreciated. It's your turn later on, Russ.

Quote from: IanIs the new laser provider using the same material as the first? The detail is so much more refined and realistic.

No, it's a brownish cardboard, which isn't as dense as the former blackish product. Obviously it's much more a matter of the cutter's skills (and patience and of correct data) than of the material used. You all know the provider, it is Dave from VectorCut whom I can recommend implicitly.

I'm really curious if there's someone interested in such items? This is 1:22.5 scale but for it's vector graphics it's scaleable with minor effort. Please let me know.

Quote from: RussAre you showing off again, Volker? I think your perfection has exceeded my ability to tolerate it! -- Russ

Please be lenient: I have to live every day with my annoying nature. I'm afraid I'll have to lower my claim or you have to raise your's to get in tune. Feel free to choose :D  :P :-*.

Cheers,
Volker

Hello Volker,

as you can see again the best is the enemy of the good.

Next to the way for the better, but come to the right place.

Excellent bit of modelling -superb detail for those day to day objects and its different !
Barney

Thanks, Helmut and Barney.

I had shown those master forms for rail joiners before:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6607b.JPG&hash=ce64185e81c2fdd4635e6d4c43b730975c3e9af5)

Meanwhile the brass castings arrived. The joints for grooved rail have a quite smooth surface,

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6973b.JPG&hash=e93ce8e222f10bea8608f3de1ffe4f7458bce97d)

but the ones for flat bottom rail came out very rough.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6975b.JPG&hash=abbc8d306b3c408e7a7efe84cd06a80358d614e6)

But it seems to work well. It's only a test assembly; I wanted to see what it's looking like when mounted.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7009b.JPG&hash=d005dd042fccd3b137f9d0b844966f39743a0328)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7015b.JPG&hash=8599fd6739abb39b640d0f726bfd7b42b85fde07)

The joints are burnished with Gravoxide. This results in a blackish / brownish /blueish dull surface. I used water color by Carand'Ache for the rust stains. I really would like to get this color effect with acrylics at some parts of the rails and ties, but didn't get it till now. Marc Reusser e. g. has brought that to perfection.

The master forms are made of FUD by shapeways. I've chosen a provider who uses rubber molds. So the master forms had to be scaled up for 4% according to the shrinking of the rubber. Obviously there's a reaction with the FUD during the vulcanizing process resulting in the uneven surface. In this case it's a very nice result. Unfortunately it's not predictable, as you can see at the more even joints for grooved rail.

So the "right" way using 3D-technology to create master forms for brass casting seems to be wax printing and lost wax casting to get the master form. Did anyone make similar experiences with silicone molds?

Cheers,
Volker

Those covers, panels and grates are fantastic!  What a great selection and variety of detail. Thank you for the photos and SBS on the process and your experience.

I would so buy several of each in 1/24 and 1/35 ...heck...I am sure the 122.5 would be just fine for 1/24 and 1/20......especially considering that I would be using them out of context anyhow....and nobody but you would know what they are and how big. :)

If you and Dave decide to make some sets, consider me first in line to purchase some. :)

I think the rough texture really lends itself to the final result.
Just looks the part!

Put me on a list for some of the grooved rail joiners (if there ever is one!)

-Marty

That looks incredible!

Thanks for the info on the process. I think it is looking very good. I need to hook up with a caster.

The project is a success and your test assembly looks very good. Your point about the reaction between FUD and rubber is critical. This has been extremely educational. -- Russ

I first thought that the parts were badly sand blasted, but this isn't the reason, as you can see here. This is the mold for a kind of fishplate that was too thin for casting. For the mold it was important to insert a piece of rail, the foot of which you can clearly recognize. This mold is for the wax parts for the lost wax casting.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7017b.JPG&hash=77494cba1a40ba545931bf4952a153de383ed880)

One can clearly see, that the 'FUD parts' of the resulting casting are rough and the 'metal part' is smooth. So this can't be the result of sand blasting. It's no problem of the wax, too: The mold shows the roughness at the FUD contact areas. Unfortunately the pic doesn't.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7020b.JPG&hash=c0165301633eec474f0c78f2f66d21d9e298eb2f)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7022b.JPG&hash=283710649a21dd2178b0a3e5c1e577e0bb573568)

Thanks, Marc, Marty, Ray, Chuck and Russ!


Cheers,
Volker

The first drainage for grooved rail found it's place. I glued the cardboard item with CA to two vertical card stripes to achieve a look inside through the openings (I've seen I have to blacken the substructure even more). And I added two distance stripes towards the rails: The prototype was used with grooved rail for street cars and grooved rail for Railways, which is a bit wider than this one.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7023b.JPG&hash=ecbd26c2873e9a72b0d18f8779375f6fbf577934)

The rails got their drain openings, too.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7027b.JPG&hash=01390d26577ee124ec827526cca8c52fa640fe3e)

Cheers,
Volker

Beautiful! I really like those drainage covers.

Thanks, Ray.

Some time ago I'd got a shipment by Helmut, whom I'd asked to mill the parts for the gauge bars.

What I got were the completely soldered and blackened items! Thank you very much, Helmut!

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Spurstange_1.jpg&hash=84703f7b2f58d1346b34148f52aeec5bb1b145e2)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Spurstange_3.jpg&hash=0e299a9d14a4d74d35862f033afdea488f61c1f1)

Some test mounting

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7040b.JPG&hash=cc923482d7d981f03568cb15b698b65af6913020)

including the drainage.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7042b.JPG&hash=4cdfb810556cb6b15deefd85d5a9409a34e312f6)

At least the drainage is built by myself from an etched part and cardboard. This will be completely visible including the pipe because it's positioned in the middle of the bridge. I think they did that to avoid ice building up in the grooves in winter time.

Cheers,
Volker

Here you can see how it's done: The drainage has several layers of cardboard. I printed the outlines to self adhesive paper, glued that to cardboard and cut it out. The mounted layers are sealed with CA and then filed to shape.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5213b.jpg&hash=0efacf0041ea22966bbca471795e33821fca53e1)

The nickel silver cover is mounted with CA. The tube is a ballon stick.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5220b.jpg&hash=e38ec560003ef7b151f7289ecaefa3d71c40d05d)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_6748b.JPG&hash=88f5b39e1be114772e029155d52f7be18b1688dc)

Cheers,
Volker

Even a humble drain gets the artist touch!

Nice.

You have really captured the textures of the materials manufactured in each specific way. I really like the rough sand texture used in the lost wax casting. Excellent construction on these rails, really excellent.

Absolutely superb in every way a work of art !
Barney 

Yep. -- Russ

Super.

Starting to feel a bit guilty about lurking here without comments ... keep looking at the updates, ending up speechless and saying nothing ... so:  still looking at the updates, still speechless and just saying that!  ;D  (Very inspired by your work!) -- Dallas

Mark - I agree with all that + such miniature precision with super detail
Barney

Hi Volker

Incredible attention to all those seemingly trivial objects! What has cought my special interest is the picture of the gauge bars.
What did you use to blacken those items? It has been my experience that blackening won't work on the soldering tin ... ???

Thanks, Peter

Thanks for all your comments - very much appreciated!

Quote from: Malachi Constant on January 29, 2014, 08:48:03 AM
Starting to feel a bit guilty about lurking here without comments ...

Dallas, I could write that at a lot of threads, too. You come straight to the point :-\.

Quote from: Peter_T1958 on February 04, 2014, 07:45:25 AM
What has cought my special interest is the picture of the gauge bars. What did you use to blacken those items? It has been my experience that blackening won't work on the soldering tin ... ???

Peter, I use Gravoxide to burnish brass items. It produces stains on the soldered tin, which are a bit brighter than on brass. For you'll surely color it with washings later on it doesn't matter. But it's most important to remove solderuing flux stainless and to have the surface completely fat free - and it helps to roughen it before burnishing with sandpaper or a fibre glass pencil.

Cheers,
Volker

Helmut milled the special sleepers for the bridge:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7060b.JPG&hash=8f571444bbb2999992707f6dbfa3114de403375b)

I started to play with some color and would appreciate to get feedback about your impressions for I'm not sure about the result:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7058b.JPG&hash=f7b72f9ef426f09ba35e00a0c29b6a017ae74ec7)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7061b.JPG&hash=7619c8f6bcf15c5d91919dc1aa02d5ca570593ef)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7065b.JPG&hash=662345e2f5c18e09f61c31105e90586bc57573c0)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7066b.JPG&hash=1886cc700a9e175bad105fb0f20474e4be9d9e47)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7062b.JPG&hash=2e9701d8055ee42a28f05b6fc5422e75b86b8474)

Cheers,
Volker

They are excellent. Much better than the result I recently created for a photographic plank.

I am hoping to bury most of the sleepers under grass and ballast as a consequence. Unfortunately endless playing for the ultimate result would mean missing the press deadline for the photography. Something else to come back to later.

They look great to me! I like the blobs of tar/creosote, and the various stains.

great sleepers -but.
the ends are too square usually the end grains attract the most wear and as a result there is more wood grain showing.i am assuming that these sleepers are secound hand and as a result there should be signs of there former lives, ie- old bolt holes and wear from fish plates.maybe i am jumping the gun but the rails and sleepers are too seperate,the rails are this lovely colour but this has not bleed onto the sleepers.
kind regards kim

I like the general coloring. Better than I could do. I do have slight issues in two areas, the first being the much lighter shades on the lower half of some of the ties....of course this will not matter if they will be ballasted...but I don't know the condition/look for the bridge. The other item is the end grain...it seems a little too "tight"....now this of course is one of those things that in real life varies from tie to tie, and location to location...even with what wood was used, or how it was treated......it just seems to me from the extreme close-ups, that the grain coild be a bit more "open" I have in the past used a wire pencil, or wire brush in a dremel tool to get this effect. The trickeist part is getting the feel for it, so that you do not make the ends of the ties convex or concave.

Lovely work though, regardless.

Marc is probably right but the ties are terrific even as they are. -- Russ

... great work so far, Volker,

In case you need some additonal reference material (regarding the colouring) have a look at the sleepers (second hand) of the Feldbahn at TUEV Norderstedt (http://www.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de/vorbild-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt/) (a circular track [sic!] with one switch and one crossing), but I'm not quite sure if it is comparable with a Kleinbahn like the Plettenberg one ... IMHO your sleepers eventually tend to be a little too "brownish", but as Marc mentioned, there's a great variety from tie to tie and from locality to locality ...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F06-03-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt%2F06-03-0004-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt-p1010324.jpg&hash=af0181ff5ae1e029545212664c3ae25ec7d979f3)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F06-03-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt%2F06-03-0011-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt-p1010350.jpg&hash=126e09a0217fa3c33eb56a5454990a714e47d5c3)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F06-03-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt%2F06-03-0012-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt-p1010351.jpg&hash=bf37bde3ca29929c2ea0961a233a5522ec490116)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F06-03-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt%2F06-03-0013-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt-p1010339.jpg&hash=60eea56395faf59820f4e34eaa3c767b9a946e53)

Cheers

Thank you very much, gentlemen, for your critical reflection.

Quote from: 1-32 on February 08, 2014, 10:38:22 PM
great sleepers -but.
the ends are too square usually the end grains attract the most wear and as a result there is more wood grain showing.i am assuming that these sleepers are secound hand and as a result there should be signs of there former lives, ie- old bolt holes and wear from fish plates.maybe i am jumping the gun but the rails and sleepers are too seperate,the rails are this lovely colour but this has not bleed onto the sleepers.
kind regards kim

Quote from: marc_reusser on February 08, 2014, 10:48:22 PM
I like the general coloring. Better than I could do. I do have slight issues in two areas, the first being the much lighter shades on the lower half of some of the ties....of course this will not matter if they will be ballasted...but I don't know the condition/look for the bridge. The other item is the end grain...it seems a little too "tight"....now this of course is one of those things that in real life varies from tie to tie, and location to location...even with what wood was used, or how it was treated......it just seems to me from the extreme close-ups, that the grain coild be a bit more "open" I have in the past used a wire pencil, or wire brush in a dremel tool to get this effect. The trickeist part is getting the feel for it, so that you do not make the ends of the ties convex or concave.

Lovely work though, regardless.

I'm completely with you, Kim and Marc. I should not have shown the pic with trackage, as this isn't final coloring of the track at all nor completely mounted. For example fish plates, rail clips, bolts and washers are missing.

I didn't take much attention to the faces' end grain because you can't see the faces. But at least the upper visible part needs more attention. Thank you very much!

Quote from: mad gerald on February 09, 2014, 01:04:50 AM
... great work so far, Volker,

In case you need some additonal reference material (regarding the colouring) have a look at the sleepers (second hand) of the Feldbahn at TUEV Norderstedt (http://www.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de/vorbild-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt/) (a circular track [sic!] with one switch and one crossing), but I'm not quite sure if it is comparable with a Kleinbahn like the Plettenberg one ... IMHO your sleepers eventually tend to be a little too "brownish", but as Marc mentioned, there's a great variety from tie to tie and from locality to locality ...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F06-03-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt%2F06-03-0004-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt-p1010324.jpg&hash=af0181ff5ae1e029545212664c3ae25ec7d979f3)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F06-03-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt%2F06-03-0011-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt-p1010350.jpg&hash=126e09a0217fa3c33eb56a5454990a714e47d5c3)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F06-03-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt%2F06-03-0012-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt-p1010351.jpg&hash=bf37bde3ca29929c2ea0961a233a5522ec490116)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F06-03-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt%2F06-03-0013-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt-p1010339.jpg&hash=60eea56395faf59820f4e34eaa3c767b9a946e53)

Cheers

I feel the last picture shows the coloring and state of the sleeper I tried to achieve. They mustn't be too grey; I only know that greyish color from not or very seldom used tracks. Here are some prototype pics of the bridge. The sleepers had some constant dampness from the brook but must have dried fast on the upside.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715bridge_sleepers_1.jpg&hash=ab3d4c5ed2518e18397d7ceb02b59d616f17e1d6)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715bridge_sleepers_2.jpg&hash=9e50fada33a89601622c7698eab4d017c62a3dbd)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715bridge_sleepers_6.jpg&hash=fa01b8b351636f781f78cce9e9e34f30ad37b82b)

The next out-take (transport of the dismantled bridge) shows those very slim bridge sleepers.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715bridge_sleepers_3.jpg&hash=b3e407b59bbb1067608566a612ee7916d120f69b)

But I made a mistake: Most sleepers were thicker and carved below (see the cut pieces on the left) to fit the solebars (longitudinal bridge beams  ???)...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715bridge_sleepers_4.jpg&hash=1525f88c4d7c9d36ffdc5ed4056f57827d010059)

... which you can see here:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715bridge_sleepers_5.jpg&hash=15406b49933c0672448347824c7305dcfff364f9)

Unfortunately there's always a gap between claim and reality; at least the CAD construction is completed, including the mostly incorrect sleepers. But I'm going to change that at the model.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Oesterbruecke_render1.jpg&hash=5be47b0349ccf2c2e500c37b2695f2e3263e9657)

Here's in a nutshell what I've done:

First of all carve the beechwood sleepers with a triangular scraper, treat the surface and sides with a wire pencil (I forgot about the faces >:() and then water them for half an hour or so. Then start to apply thinned black gouache by Caran d'Ache, playing with intensity of thinning. For everything is wet it's easy to remove too much color. This results in a greyish surface, when dry. At some points add carefully thinned opaque white at the surface, avoiding to have it running into the carving. Then apply black semi-gloss aceton soluble color to the wet(!) surface. The color starts to crumble a bit. Wait until the wetness had changed to moisture and apply some brown pigments at the fishplate areas. Then let it dry completely. Finally use aceton to dissolve the blotches of black color, which have no adhesion to the ground up to this point. Same with the pigments, which can be washed into the wood by this method. For the tar blotches are a bit too shiny use some thinned opaque white to soften that a bit.

Cheers,
Volker

Hallo Volker

"Ganz grosses Theater!" Congrats! This looks unbelievable realistic, especially the blobs of tar...

Quote from: 1-32 on February 08, 2014, 10:38:22 PM
great sleepers -but.
... I am assuming that these sleepers are secound hand and as a result there should be signs of there former lives, ie- old bolt holes and wear from fish plates....
kind regards kim

I do not know if these sleepers were second hand. It doesn't really matter, and in any case such signs of their former life woud add a lot of additional character.

Quote from: mad gerald on February 09, 2014, 01:04:50 AM
In case you need some additonal reference material (regarding the colouring) have a look at the sleepers (second hand) of the Feldbahn at TUEV Norderstedt (http://www.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de/vorbild-feldbahn-tuev-norderstedt/) (a circular track [sic!] with one switch and one crossing), but I'm not quite sure if it is comparable with a Kleinbahn like the Plettenberg one ... IMHO your sleepers eventually tend to be a little too "brownish", but as Marc mentioned, there's a great variety from tie to tie and from locality to locality.

In the meantime I rushed to the nearby freight station site to take a look on the real thing. To me the colour looks spot on although most of the reference pics I have googeled  show a lot more "grayish".
Here a reference pic to show, what is to be understood by "sleeper". Even under the same conditions, colours vary a lot. Especially in my in my region (perhaps also in Volkers) with relatively a lot of humid weather, a darker appearance may be quite accurate.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi240.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff181%2FPeter_T1958%2FWestlake%2520Publishing%2520Forum%2F2336304_zpsc64ada2c.jpg%7Eoriginal&hash=177a5eee0e0b9dc4200490d49ea34ed0acfe56f1) (http://s240.photobucket.com/user/Peter_T1958/media/Westlake%20Publishing%20Forum/2336304_zpsc64ada2c.jpg.html)

Quote from: Hydrostat on February 09, 2014, 03:07:09 AMI feel the last picture shows the coloring and state of the sleeper I tried to achieve. They mustn't be too grey; I only know that greyish color from not or very seldom used tracks.

But I made a mistake: Most sleepers were thicker and carved below (see the cut pieces on the left) to fit the solebars (longitudinal bridge beams   )... Cheers, Volker

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi240.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff181%2FPeter_T1958%2FWestlake%2520Publishing%2520Forum%2F33915_zps75ca726e.jpg%7Eoriginal&hash=9a3e2ba51973c780e4fb23135a671b60bb1fb880) (http://s240.photobucket.com/user/Peter_T1958/media/Westlake%20Publishing%20Forum/33915_zps75ca726e.jpg.html)

Yep!

Regards, Peter

Interesting and informative discussion, IMHO your sleepers look great Volker ...... Just maybe a bit of work on the end grain.

Those reference shots Peter are useful, never seen (noticed?) those S shaped metal strengtheners before .... Presumably added where pronounced grain is leading to full depth splits in the timber

BTW, you can see the explanation of those "S" irons on Rays youtube link:

General Forums ->  Great video of 1920's cross tie logging -> 17:11-17.20

Some veneer strips served to thicken the ties. I followed your hints concerning the end grain, the too square shape and the brightness at the sides. I used a sanding disk for the shape and a very slowly turning miniature wire brush disk with the drill for the grain. Those pics were taken under a cloudy sky; I think they match the color better than the last ones under artficial lighting.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7068b.JPG&hash=ea86ccb13e75166c3fb71475930cf819a87566a6)

Don't mind the faces with the visible edge of the glued on veneer. It's nearly invisible from the sides.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7069b.JPG&hash=0a29ecc3022d6deffbbd0d72010d306bbe4a5334)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7071b.JPG&hash=2be89ec58188a773619250226663ad059556cbf8)

Quote from: Peter_T1958 on February 09, 2014, 09:05:15 AM
BTW, you can see the explanation of those "S" irons on Rays youtube link:
General Forums ->  Great video of 1920's cross tie logging -> 17:11-17.20

There were at least three more kinds: nail plates, band clamps and even square crewed binders.

Thanks again for all your feedback and especially for the reference pics! Very much appreciated!

Cheers,
Volker

This is just amazing to watch. Excellent work, Volker!

Works for me. -- Russ

Do you have any shirts to match those ties?   ;D  They look great!  -- Dallas

great

Thanks, Christian, Russ, Dallas and Kim!

Quote from: Malachi Constant on February 10, 2014, 03:52:18 PM
Do you have any shirts to match those ties?   ;D  They look great!  -- Dallas

Unfortunately not. No longer, at least: My wife didn't like the tar blotches. >:(

I worked a bit with color to achieve a unifying look.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7150b.JPG&hash=a838cfff18568b2397d691e0fc3de086b917a866)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7148b.JPG&hash=1a1d6f3c8478fe58427653e641b1f8d02a8553d7)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7158b.JPG&hash=0ddea7f28779d0644c500fcede13a14cba15bf93)

Left hand of the soldered part is pure rust, right hand the colored area:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7138b.JPG&hash=e0d2933574b8295c226fc178a27334ca4ca2984f)

Insulation was made with a single layer of tissue paper, drenched with CA.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7056b.JPG&hash=c235fac25fef3a7527cdfd98ed1efa6ba9c4ed56)

Some plastic rivets serve as screw imitations. Unfortunately they are a bit too thick for the M1 washers so I had to counterbore them to 1 mm.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7055b.JPG&hash=c36591a2b4784f2c3b038f3cc7b89883e3d7d2fc)

So there are no visible threads, but it doesn't matter: At the prototype the screws end with the washer so I will shorten them.

I'm looking for a matte lacquer / fluid to fix the pigments and watercolor and to stop furthermore rusting. Any suggestions?

Cheers,
Volker

I have seen quite a few miles of model track, belive me, but yours is the best. Incredible and inspiring!

Now THAT is impressive!

That track is truly amazing! So realistic, I can almost smell the creosote and hear the rails expanding in the morning sun!

Quote from: Hydrostat on February 25, 2014, 04:52:13 AM
I'm looking for a matte lacquer / fluid to fix the pigments and watercolor and to stop furthermore rusting. Any suggestions?

It is a pity that you have to lacquer the track, although I understand your approach. I also fear that all those wonderful small rusty blotches on the rail surface (they look like dried up wet areas - simply breathtaking...) will disappear after that  :-\

... pretty well done, old bean - chapeau!  8)

I cannot believe you were able to do that with paints, stains, and powders. An absolutely superb finish. Most satisfactory. -- Russ

Why not seal it in a perfect vacuum at minus 40 degrees? :o
That should adequately preserve it.
Of course we will always have these pictures.  ;D
Unless the hosted site(s) go down, the power fails or the world wide web suffers a hiccup..... :-\

-Marty

Excellent look on the ties and rails!

Amazing  - total mind blowing stuff
Barney

Does the government know you are ripping up their rails an ties?

Simply beautiful result.

Beautiful work.  Most realistic tie and rail I've seen.

Jerry

great
lets have a look at what you have done. have you have put down a base stain then applied a top coat of either plaster or gessio just under the track.then this has been stained or painted thus creating a contrast.
true or false?
kind regards kim

Thanks a lot for your friendly words, guys!

Quote from: Peter_T1958 on February 25, 2014, 11:47:01 AM
It is a pity that you have to lacquer the track, although I understand your approach. I also fear that all those wonderful small rusty blotches on the rail surface (they look like dried up wet areas - simply breathtaking...) will disappear after that  :-\

Peter, I decided to firstly leave it as it is. Concerning the rusty blotches: Wait until the wheels start rolling!

Quote from: lab-dad on February 26, 2014, 05:10:33 AM
Why not seal it in a perfect vacuum at minus 40 degrees? :o
That should adequately preserve it.
Of course we will always have these pictures.  ;D
Unless the hosted site(s) go down, the power fails or the world wide web suffers a hiccup..... :-\

-Marty

Interesting approach, but I'm not willing to play in a space suit. My refrigerator doesn't fit that size.

Quote from: marc_reusser on February 26, 2014, 09:54:29 PM
Does the government know you are ripping up their rails an ties?
Simply beautiful result.

Which one? Yours surely does (at least thinks it does). Don't tell them it's a fake.

Quote from: 1-32 on February 27, 2014, 03:28:45 PM
great
lets have a look at what you have done. have you have put down a base stain then applied a top coat of either plaster or gessio just under the track.then this has been stained or painted thus creating a contrast.
true or false?
kind regards kim

I had shown the rusted steel rails some posts ago. Those are the clamps and plates which Helmut had milled and burnished for me.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7266b.JPG&hash=75dc3fed1b71b415c4e2aa57c7824952a269088a)

I only used water, water color and Gravoxide; the blotches on top of the rail simply were small water drops.

First of all all the brass shiny areas resulting from mounting the parts were burnished with Gravoxide. This results in a blackish/brownish and water accepting surface so I could use water color to start toning it down. At the places covered with tin I used some leather brown acrylic to get a first layer. I dampened the rails and started to apply black and umber water color for the undertone. Using a somewhat stiffer brush one can remove a bit of the rust stains and push them towards other areas. I also collected the rust powder (from clearing for soldering with a wire brush pen) and added that at some places. To accelerate rusting I sometimes added Gravoxide to the humid surface. Be careful if there's a combination of steel and brass; it then tends to get greenish. It's a time consuming process as you need to wait for the metal rusting while drying. I repeated that again and again till I had a result I liked. I added a bit orange and carmine red water color (always thinned, so the pigments tend to flow to edges) at the parts where there is movement and friction at the prototype like some screws and the rail joiners. It takes some patience because the rails are much darker when wet and you only can recognize the effect when it's completely dry. The first pics showed some accumulation of pigments in the edges with some garish colors. I then used a stiff brush to clean out those areas. That's it. I hope it was understandable. Next posts in German and Klingon.

Cheers,
Volker

By all means please post in Klingon! -- Russ

bIpIv'a', russ, jIQuch Hoch nIv ta'. 'IwlIj jachjaj, QIb.  ;)

Quote from: Hydrostat on February 28, 2014, 01:27:48 PM
bIpIv'a', russ, jIQuch Hoch nIv ta'. 'IwlIj jachjaj, QIb.  ;)

Volker, you can't say things like that about Russ on a public forum . And besides the case was never proved !

Nick, you're right from a human view. But - a Klingon has to! No offense against other species, please.

I thought his telling me to sit on the sharp end of a phaser was rather cute.

For a Klingon.

Russ

That's odd, not what I got from Google translation.

Google translate doesn't support Klingon, but Bing does -

are you healthy?, russ lifted the value of all, the King. Cheers, Shadow.

Now I want to know who Shadow is?

Volker-

Thanks so much for sharing you work. Im loving this forum, so much to learn and be inspired by. keep up the amazing work.

One question for you, what did you have to provide have to provide Dave at vectorcut to achieve the nicely rounded letting on the various drain covers and other laser cut pieces? was it just an image file or a vector file like a .ai? And did he have do do anything special to achieve the rounded casting look on the type?

Thanks so much!

-Michael

Ich fürchte, dass ich besser Sauerkraut kochen als klingonisch schreiben kann. Letzteres mache ich zumindest noch seltener.

Well, this was the German post. Now back to English. Be sure that Ian's translation from Klingon to English via Bing may be correct. But be sure, too, it isn't what I'd have Bing translate from English to Klingon. I wrote something like "As ever you want, Russ, I'll accomplish your desire. Cheers, Volker" (Nick, this exclusively refers to Russ' wish for a Klingon post). So ... shadow seems to be me? I don't even want to think about it. I hope this doesn't lead to some interstellar disgruntlement.

Quote from: mspaw on March 01, 2014, 04:34:56 PM
One question for you, what did you have to provide have to provide Dave at vectorcut to achieve the nicely rounded letting on the various drain covers and other laser cut pieces? was it just an image file or a vector file like a .ai? And did he have do do anything special to achieve the rounded casting look on the type?
-Michael

Thanks, Michael.
I'm not sure if I got you right. Do you mean the 3-dimensional, sloped parts? Howsoever all drawings need to be vector files - including the lettering - with different layers for cutting (lines), engraving (planes; don't know if it's the right translation; means a plane with color fill) and the 3-dimensional slopes, which one can achieve by color gradients. Please specify your question if this didn't help.

Cheers,
Volker

Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic.


Um, yes, I am sure.

But there was just some small and not too well documented progress in the last few months. With support from a few Buntbahn guys (Frithjof, Helmut and Joachim; thanks again!) the grooved rail bending tool took shape. Those are the parts for the pulleys, which needed to be assembled from three cnc millable parts each to achieve the right shape.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7783b.jpg&hash=44b2d204eb556f31d7a4d4302d06b50d49018429)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7785b.jpg&hash=a698fdf387555098f8e14bcbecf37586ebec17e3)

The grooved rail isn't symmetrical, so I needed three pulleys of each shape.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7849b.jpg&hash=e5fe945c0ef5f395c4adce8f2d9a3e2fa889e08f)

Helmut milled the bearing parts for the vice.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7845b.jpg&hash=7ec0bfbc5cd16e440d8a52350b8e7669aa321396)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7850b.jpg&hash=9ebbf11a2ecf6f4677c034c7bd7dec7bfd05866f)

The adjustable pulley can be driven via the hex. The thread of the screw is turned down on the lathe and the pulley is fixed with a setscrew.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7846b.jpg&hash=b2733ada15c6d887900e9f97ec7e95ea6248a7aa)

I used a drawing with the exact radius and the inner outlines of the rail and some radial lines to shorten the inner rail and to add the bores for the spacers and joints.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7840b.jpg&hash=447f8d7e6f04c78cd3d7ee888ff0399acf95f573)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7843b.jpg&hash=97696a5a0c5d6e5ecaf20c23fe393413ccc97404)

And I started soldering the bridge parts in a jig that Frithjof milled for me.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7856b.jpg&hash=f63a110ddd6972c38ec5f6b0779223e9c7442f6f)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7852b.jpg&hash=7c61441138115e5dd34e3d4f4b46a8e7a17e7c9f)


Cheers,
Volker

Take your time - each update is wonderful.

Impressive. -- Russ

WOW! COOL! GREAT! AWESOME!!

I have been wondering how to make a rail bender for my (eventual) 1/16th stuff.
Thank you so much for posting the pictures.

-Marty

Hi,

thanks for your comments.

The track curve leading from the switch to the bridge is done.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7985b.jpg&hash=c076129af600b9b8a2502d431b513acc601d9565)

The wooden ties had to be shortened according the straight bridge's side beam. The grooved rail was laid on steel ties following the bridge. I had to remove the clamp imitations of the resine ties and mount them with screws, rail clips and washers. At the later on not visible part I used half ties and beechwood ties with M2 thread and screws to fix the rails. The wood is hard enough  - the threads cannot be torn out and the rail is easily adjustable with some countersunk head screws (one can divine that in the upper picture's background).

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7971b.jpg&hash=4b5f4512531e6ba478a509675453c9dd7b453769)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7980b.jpg&hash=daa1ebc3a51c54faabfd5999e58748954358a05d)

I started coloring the steel ties with a layer of opaque leather brown and toned that afterwards with a wash of brown and black gouache. Last layer is rust powder, which I get from brushing the prerusted rails with a stiff bristle brush.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7973b.jpg&hash=d6dcd99420d1d0233f95a7a28470dd928b3d3907)

Unfortunately all the gauge bars had to be shortened about 0.5 mm, meaning unsoldering them, filing them down and solder and blacken them again  >:( . Another issue were the rail clips, which didn't clamp strong enough. I added a paper layer to raise diameter. For that I fixed the clamps with double sided self adhesive tape to a piece of angle section,

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7914b.jpg&hash=4f293f2a6c82c3b4c45f32ba1edce456f69f2620)

applied the paper strip to the clamps with CA,

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7918b.jpg&hash=92df626ea847329abd4ac4a9a9bebd7fb21fb769)

and cut it off succinctly afterwards.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7921b.jpg&hash=0c1c853ef003da8024a13330d0650cc5eb290c12)

The strip can now be easily removed and cut to pieces with a blade.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7923b.jpg&hash=722af9caeface69e90b25da8662e915c3b333589)

Now the rail clips clamp ...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_7925b.jpg&hash=fdb513ca13f58b77be108e90bce3b8923c49608f)


Cheers,
Volker

Volker, this is just amazing! In general, there are two kinds of model builders: the miniature engineers and the painters / sculptors. You are a true master of both, which is very rare!

Christian

Freaking incredible!

I agree with both of the above. But I thought you told me you've been away from the workbench. You post certainly seems to suggest otherwise. -- Russ

Thanks, Christian and Ray. And Russ.

Quote from: finescalerr on September 08, 2014, 11:40:18 AM
I agree with both of the above. But I thought you told me you've been away from the workbench. You post certainly seems to suggest otherwise. -- Russ

Russ, sometimes I'm fast. May be the result of our conversation. Or was it the threats or the sweeteners?

Pretty much speechless again Volker! This is truly amazing. That track is superb.

I've just discovered a movie of an exhibition on which you have issued the Sauerland modules. 

It started at 3:30: 

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KL1EsqMmxHI 

If you like it historically, a film that illustrates beautifully the atmosphere of Plettenberg narrow-gauge railway from the year 1961: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E95TNqnSof4

Who is the vender for the brass structural shapes you are using to fabricate this wonder?

Neat video, really nice to see the module in operation. I love that little steam dummy!

Quote from: fspg2 on December 29, 2014, 12:14:55 PM
I've just discovered a movie of an exhibition on which you have issued the Sauerland modules. If you like it historically, a film that illustrates beautifully the atmosphere of Plettenberg narrow-gauge railway from the year 1961[...]

Frithjof, thanks for posting!

Quote from: Lawton Maner on December 30, 2014, 03:14:31 PM
Who is the vender for the brass structural shapes you are using to fabricate this wonder?

I'm not sure what exactly you mean, but there is a manufacturer/vender in Liechtenstein: http://www.hassler-profile.li/ (http://www.hassler-profile.li/) His website and order process isn't that comfortable, but here you find some profiles in English: http://www.hassler-profile.li/HasslerProfileKatalogD.html (http://www.hassler-profile.li/HasslerProfileKatalogD.html) He's the only one I know who provides prototypically shaped brass beams and angle section with sloped branches and rounded edges. Still there's compromising with material thickness, but to me it seems he has some unique selling point there ... If you need support getting through the website I'll be happy to help.

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on December 30, 2014, 05:48:45 PM
Neat video, really nice to see the module in operation. I love that little steam dummy!

Thanks, Ray, but what do you mean with the 'steam dummy' :P?

Cheers,
Volker

Over here, an enclosed steam locomotive was often called a "steam dummy". A lot of early street car lines used steam dummies. They also often covered the valves and rods, to prevent scaring horses.

Ah, okay! Thank you, Ray, for the explanation!

Volker

Thank you for the link to the manufacturer.  As for "vender" the meaning is the seller or distributor.

Have very productive New Year.

Quote from: Lawton Maner on December 31, 2014, 01:46:35 PM
As for "vender" the meaning is the seller or distributor.

Thanks. I asked myself which profiles/shapes you asked for  :D.

A little progress with some small items for that project.

Time ... another year gone by without any namable results. At least some details:

For comparison again some prototype pictures (all from W. D. Groote collection).

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8928%2F5715Maiplatzbr_cke_17_08_1954.jpg&hash=832eae8ffea1750c0d58e397207fe7e85f741e42)

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The stone bollards werde 3D printed with the same printer the anvil block (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1983.msg50282#msg50282) was made of. This time I hoped the horizontal printer lines may add a bit to a prototypical appearance of dressed stone, but they disappeared nearly completely after the process.

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A mixture of old Floquil 'concrete color', some Humbrol White, clear matte varnish (all three understood as binder as well as color), thinner, slate dust and silicon carbide F360 grid serves to create a ground texture.

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Caran d'Ache gouache washings, starting with  heavily dilluted black and additional ochre and green tones applied wet in wet result in an appearance anywhere between dressed stone and raw, old concrete.

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The iron bar is a piece of a cleaning machine brush, which one sometimes finds out on the pavements. Of course they never have exactly the right diameter, but some research led me to a company producing those brushes, which kindly gave me some meters of the needed material, which is 2.8 x 0.45 mm. At their website there's an interesting collection of old cleaning machines - may be of interest for the vehicle builders among us: http://www.weber-buersten.eu/historische-kehrmaschinen/bilder-kehrmaschinen/ (http://www.weber-buersten.eu/historische-kehrmaschinen/bilder-kehrmaschinen/). The material was annealed before coloring with gouache for the rust stains.

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The cast sign was etched from 0.5 mm brass.

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U-shaped bent wires attach it to the tube, which should have worked at the prototype for it's wall thickness.

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The other sign is pressed and enameled sheet, which needs some other kind of fixture.  

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The U-shaped band clamps are etched from stainless steel; they've been part of the etching sheet for the drawing machine. Unfortunately i made a mistake with their length calculation and so they needed to be soldered to brass U-section 2x1 mm, with a tiny brass block inserted to have them clamping to the tube afterwards.  

The 2mm brass tube's inner diameter was bored up to 1.6 mm to have a more prototypically appearance. I know - the tube for sure was closed at top to avoid rusting away from inside, but I like the appearance.

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The brass parts then were burnished with Gravoxide and the tinned areas with a blackening fluid from a tiffany store. I colored the sign with white Humbrol enamel and then carefully removed color from the letters and the edge with some brush cleaner, following by a wash with black and green gouache. The surface first hand doesn't seem to accept this water based color at all, but when it starts to dry (proceeding with brushing) it leaves behind those stains. I've seen some old sheet signs with a somewhat embossed/rounded edge, which I tried to replicate. The second sign was printed to glossy paper (three clear colors withoput any imprinted wheathering or so) and embossed with some sharp edged tubing on a piece of sintra board and then cut out. Most difficult part was to position the punch at the right place and it took at least a forenoon to have some acceptable result.

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The back was treated with very thin CA, which led to the speckled appearance at the front. Unfortunately the CA leaves some stains behind, which make the surface uneven and a bit rough. The back needed a coat of white and then black enamel to make it opaque; maybe some brush traces reinforced the CA stains at that point. A final coloring with a black edding led to the somewhat blueish appearance of enameled signs. Again gouache for additional rust and dirt stains.

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Washes at the sign post were done with gouache again.

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I should have stopped here, but I wanted to have the back a bit more even and less shiny, using some pigments. Looking good at hand i was a bit shocked seeing the pictures. For the upper one there's some improvement for sure, but the lower one now rather looks like directly from a scrap yard. I still think it may be alright considering the signs' position under a tree, beside a brook.

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Any suggestions how to get a more even surface? Sanding by hand doesn't work to well because of the paper's sensitivity. I know, making it from metal would be the way, but this means to start with decals or so and I wanted to give paper another try. What do you think about it?

Same with the third sign on a wooden pole. Crackles were made by staining a wooden and carved rod with thinned black gouache, which then was colored with white enamel in two or three different thick layers and a coat of white acrylics, which then were stripped of with tesa film. First careful  stripping didn't lead to any noticeable result, so I tried very bristly which in some areas took away all the color - including the very first black washing, which i then redid as very last step. The solution seems to lie in between  ::).

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Cheers,
Volker

Volker, You posted a lot of "little progress"! and it all looks so very well done. The bollards look a bit more like old raw concrete to me than stone, but they look excellent regardless.

It is interesting to see the metal street cleaning brush "bristles". I have a small collection of them found along streets and parking lots because I liked the look of them but had not found a use for them except maybe for steel beams on a flat car load. Most of mine are already rusted.Thanks for the idea. I also have some smaller(thinner and narrower) steel strips that are used as supports and retainers to hold windshield wiper blades in place. You may find those useful for other situations.

The attention to details on the signs is wonderful! I enlarged the first paper sign but could not detect the unevenness that you asked about. How did you get the printer ink to adhere to the glossy paper surface without beading up?

Perhaps one alternative to paper might be the self adhesive white vinyl sheet material that Ray Dunakin uses for signs and packages. I think its surface would be very smooth and it can be printed with an inkjet printer and then perhaps stuck to a thin metal backing to keep the thickness as thin as possible. Another possible option might be a photograph printed on a plastic "paper" substrate. I have experimented with making signs like that. They were printed at a local retail drugstore Kodak kiosk using a thermal transfer process. The surface is very smooth and it may take a little experimenting to get weathering materials to adhere to it. The "paper" may also be a little thick, but the top plastic layer can be carefully sliced from the backing paper with a razor blade. Doing that however will expose a rougher texture on the back.

Bill, thanks a lot for your thoughts!

Quote from: Bill Gill on July 23, 2016, 06:36:35 AM
It is interesting to see the metal street cleaning brush "bristles". I have a small collection of them found along streets and parking lots because I liked the look of them but had not found a use for them except maybe for steel beams on a flat car load. Most of mine are already rusted.Thanks for the idea. I also have some smaller(thinner and narrower) steel strips that are used as supports and retainers to hold windshield wiper blades in place. You may find those useful for other situations.

I love finding parts outside and having them in stock for - anything. Indeed the part was rusted before, but the rust's appearance is to coarse even in the larger scales. I then found that the edges sometimes are to much rounded from constant use and wear. So I ended up sanding the narrow sides down to achieve some rectangular edges. Annealing and afterwards wiping over them with a paper towel takes away the out of scale rust and makes the surface somewhat water acceptant which is necessary for the gouache. I tried to burnish/rust them like the grooved rails, but it doesn't work to well, for sure because it's spring steel typical chemical composition.
 

Quote from: Bill Gill on July 23, 2016, 06:36:35 AM
The attention to details on the signs is wonderful! I enlarged the first paper sign but could not detect the unevenness that you asked about. How did you get the printer ink to adhere to the glossy paper surface without beading up?

It's the sign's backside, which bothers me. It has those 'brush traces'. The printouts were made with a Canon MX725 printer at highest resolution on that photo (high) glossy paper (I hope it's the right term in english). The drawings on the drawing machines in the Quiet earth thread were made the same way, but printed on cigarette paper. I don't know how long them signs are going to last, keeping a natural color, but that was the available way to come to a result without involving other people/techniques I don't have at hand.

Quote from: Bill Gill on July 23, 2016, 06:36:35 AM
Perhaps one alternative to paper might be the self adhesive white vinyl sheet material that Ray Dunakin uses for signs and packages. I think its surface would be very smooth and it can be printed with an inkjet printer and then perhaps stuck to a thin metal backing to keep the thickness as thin as possible. Another possible option might be a photograph printed on a plastic "paper" substrate. I have experimented with making signs like that. They were printed at a local retail drugstore Kodak kiosk using a thermal transfer process. The surface is very smooth and it may take a little experimenting to get weathering materials to adhere to it. The "paper" may also be a little thick, but the top plastic layer can be carefully sliced from the backing paper with a razor blade. Doing that however will expose a rougher texture on the back.

The first hint sounds very reasonable. I'm a bit concerned about the durability of the bonding to the metal, but it may be worth a try. It isn't that I don't like the result at all - it looks a bit like a badly, maybe even with some tar based material painted sign to prevent further rusting - but it isn't the surface/effect I'd try to achieve.

Cheers,
Volker

Wow. -- Russ

Volker these signs are amazing.

The other week I was on some scaffolding looking at the carved 12 century Portal of Glory in the Catherdral of Santiago de Compostela and the stone masons detailed the tops of heads, and other hidden areas that would never have been seen. You are doing the same thing here with the details on the backs of enameled signs and elsewhere. Extraordinary and beautiful.

I really like the bollards and the use of silicon carbide in paint to give texture.

Its all very inspiring to see.

Beautiful work, looks very authentic to me!

Russ, Narayan and Ray, thank you.

Quote from: nk on July 23, 2016, 02:36:41 PM
The other week I was on some scaffolding looking at the carved 12 century Portal of Glory in the Catherdral of Santiago de Compostela and the stone masons detailed the tops of heads, and other hidden areas that would never have been seen. You are doing the same thing here with the details on the backs of enameled signs and elsewhere. Extraordinary and beautiful.

Narayan,
indeed I spent a lot of time researching those street sign fixtures - far more than actually modeling. Today's standardized fixtures (http://www.carl-turck.de/rohrschellen/rohrschellen-t-version.htm) have been patented by the Turck company in the late 60s. Unfortunately one doesn't find too many pictures of old signs' rear sides (the number is close to zero) and my assumption was that there were rather individual solutions. I started requests about 20s-40s sign fixtures at Berlin 'Museum für Verkehr und Technik' and Munich 'Deutsches Museum', but they were anable to answer it, although both of them have a collection of signs - but all without their former fixtures. Via a rather small museum, the 'Deutsches Straßenmuseum' in Germersheim, I got an interesting answer of a sign collector who indeed collected some poles, too, and it confirmed my assumption. The most interesting one was a sign 'Bahnhof', which was welded to a steam engine's former superheater element ... I'm a bit defiant to the choices made concerning preserving things or not  :D.

Cheers,
Volker

Stunning!
Your work always inspires!
-Mj

I agree always inspires !!
Barney

Thanks Marty and Barney, glad to read that.

There's been a street lamp at the Maiplatz, which catched my attention for the last two months:

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It was situated centered on the round pedestal in the foreground left hand from the tracks.

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The pole is made from brass tubing with different diameters. Each wider part got a slope to the narrower one sanded in the drill chuck.

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A printout served as a jig to solder the prepared copper parts, which were cut to length, bent or filed according to their position and shape needed at the connecting points. Copper bends much easier than brass.

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Lamp corpus was brass casted at shapeways. The lampshade is rounded with the Dremel, annealed and bent with a big marmel on a eraser. A aluminum jig helped to mount both parts centered. I spent some 5 or 6 hours to drill the 0.3 mm holes into the cable entry and a center hole of 0.8 mm diameter, which both aren't castable.

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Just to recognize in the end that the inserted 0.15 mm enameled copper wire lost it's insulation after pulling it through. So I changed to FXD printed parts. Including the holes.

- To be continued -

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Cheers,
Volker

Just INCREDIBLE!!!!! Allan

Wow that looks good!

Exceptional work as always.

Jerry

The extent of your skills is truly disturbing. -- Russ

A very attractive lamp, expertly modeled!

Allan, Bill, Jerry, Russ and Ray, thanks for the flowers.

Back to hardware:

The pole had a maintenance flap housing a winch to lower the lights. This lowest pole segment has 8 mm diameter at the model. I filed an opening with rounded edges into it and added a flap made from 0.2 mm brass sheet, which I annealed and bent over some tubing. For the triangular lock a 1 mm steel rod at about 1.5 mm length was filed, well: triangular, inserted to a brass tube and both parts brazed to a prebored hole in the bent flap. The flap then was soldered to the pole opening.

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The 'Toiletten' sign is made from 0.2 mm annealed brass sheet, too. With a big glass marmel (some 5 or 6 cm diameter) and an eraser it's easy to give it the typical vaulted shape of old enameled signs. I needed two of them for both sides. The clamps are made from scissor cut bent, filed and bored brass sheet, too. Some 0.4 mm shaft screw imitations serve as fixtures.

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The sign itself was printed on some inkjet white waterproof vinyl, which Ray generously sent to me from the States. Thank you very much Ray! I found out that even cleaning the sign four times under running water with a brush did neither let color fade nor affect adhesion of the material. Now that's amazing! The sign had to be fixed to the pole before burnishing and spraypainting it. I had to do this four times, because the spray can wasn't matte color what it was supposed to be, and I didn't like the following two results with the now matte tone.

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Pole is closed with a little removable cap at the upper end to give access to the enameled copper wires. Weathering was done by brushing heavily diluted blackich/brownish/greyish gouache to the lacquered pole. Again it takes a lot of brush rubbing to get the then drying color adhering but I don't get to any comparable results using resin varnishes or enamels. Once it's dry it's sticky enough to touch it with bare fingers without rubbing color off.

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To be continued.

Cheers,
Volker

Fantastic! Great job!

Another perfect job. -- Russ

Quote from: Hydrostat on October 17, 2016, 01:11:43 PM
Back to hardware:

The pole had a maintenance flap housing a winch to lower the lights. This lowest pole segment has 8 mm diameter at the model. I filed an opening with rounded edges into it and added a flap made from 0.2 mm brass sheet, which I annealed and bent over some tubing. For the triangular lock a 1 mm steel rod at about 1.5 mm length was filed, well: triangular, inserted to a brass tube and both parts brazed to a prebored hole in the bent flap. The flap then was soldered to the pole opening.

Sometimes "Museum quality" is used as a compliment for excellent modelling.
But this is far better than what you see in most museums.

Fantastic work.

I worked at a museum, and Hauk is correct, your work is much better. That sign and maintenance cover are mind bogglingly good. Nice to hear Ray's printable vinyl works so well for you too.

A triangular lock !!! Mind blowing detail - I feel I should give in now and take up knitting myself a new hat to match my anorak !! 
Barney

Ray, Russ, Hauk, Bill and Barney: thanks again.

Quote from: Bill Gill on October 18, 2016, 04:06:48 AM
I worked at a museum, and Hauk is correct, your work is much better. That sign and maintenance cover are mind bogglingly good. Nice to hear Ray's printable vinyl works so well for you too.

I don't know. It's not more but up to the usual finescalerr standard. If you were right I even more had to ask myself what it is good for at all.

It was a bit difficult to gain information about the lamp. This is a cutout of the very best picture available and one can see some jpg artifacts which make it difficult to recognize details.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Siemens-Leuchte_Maiplatz_Plettenberg_Detail.jpg&hash=22f019b3b02e9c742e54466e8e6ef3c54254fd7d)

Howsoever I got a hint from a street lamp collector about the brand of the lamp - and even some drawings (link opens a pdf): westdeutschestrassenleuchten.npage.de/get_file.php?id=19400904&vnr=150408 (http://westdeutschestrassenleuchten.npage.de/get_file.php?id=19400904&vnr=150408). It is a Siemens Al2sza. First step for modeling was a CAD drawing. As already mentioned the brass castings didn't work and so I had the body printed in FXD at Shapeways:

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I was shocked when I got the shipment because I thought I'd mistaken with scale. It looked like some H0 scale parts, but checking all measurements showed that they were at correct size. The bulbs would be visible and so I had them FXD printed, too. Half of them are hollow, half of them have a 0.8 mm bore because I wanted to find out which influence this would have on light impression.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Bulbs_FXD.jpg&hash=27beb3034811f6818e3852eb5fbb3dbcceabd146)

I started with an led positioned inside the lamp body behind shade and bulb like I did at the desk lamps at quiet earth, but both bulb and shade took away too much brightness. I had to separate the bulbs at the thickest point, insert a led and glue another fitting bulb part to it (I had enough parts to get two bulbs done). So now theres a 'glowing' bulb. Unfortunately I didn't take to many pictures this time to show that in detail.

Lampshade was cut out from annealed and bent 0.2 mm brass sheet. A difficult part was the frosted glass ring. I didn't find any material at right size or diametre and the ps tubing I finally bought seemed much to opaque. Helmut had a very good idea, which finally led to a reasonable result: a strip of tracing paper winded around a brass rod and drenched with ca. Chucked to the drill it's easy to round it to get rid of the visible cut. Warming the brass rod a bit with an solder iron allows to push the part with a next size tube down from the rod.  

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Dust traces from the often for brass and tin used fine sandpaper came handy at this time.

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Upper suspension is brazed from some 0.8 and 1 mm brass tubing. The wye was bored up inside to house both the 0.15 mm enameld copper wires and the 0.1 mm steel wires representing the steel ropes to lower the lamp with a winch.

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At the prototype picture there's to divine one more cable at the cylindrical rounded green part's upper end, but even the experts didn't have a clue what it was good for at that place. So I decided to omit it.

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To be continued.

Cheers,
Volker

Wow!!

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on October 30, 2016, 08:34:59 PM
Wow!!

That's a double Wow!!

Jerry

Adequate. -- Russ

Hello Volker,

masterfully implemented and actually quite simply with the paper strip.

...and then there was light!

I'm going to have shot my bolt for the present.

After a lot of unsuccessful attempts with different materials l found that quick cement was the best material to cast the curbs for the base. And to represent concrete.

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I made a master form from multiple layers of cardstock, which was drenched with CA and then filed/sanded to shape.

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Some dentist's impression material served to make a mold.

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With the quick cement the amount of bubbles remains in a tolerable size and magnitude. Lacking a vacuum system this works by far better than plaster.

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The cobbled areas were made from Molto Holz Fein Spachtel (http://www.molto.de/produkt/molto-holz-fein-spachtel/) mixed with some melaphyre grain and dust for the white area and additional reddish/brownish pigments for the red ones. Stones are embossed with a small screwdriver. This results in a rounded stone surface, which I didn't want. To achieve the look of small, mostly edgy stones at cobbled sidewalks I sanded down the surface with a disk sander. The material is quite firm after it has dried completely. More melaphyre dust served to fill the gaps, which then were treated with several washes of white, black, brown and green gouache. There's some greenery to come ...

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Cheers,
Volker

The depth of your knowledge, skill, and ability to work with every possible material never ceases to impress me. -- Russ

Great job, really looks good!

A brief comparison with some original cobblestone: It matches perfect!

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi240.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff181%2FPeter_T1958%2FWestlake%2520Publishing%2520Forum%2F027K_zpskc0jtn9g.jpg%7Eoriginal&hash=d2429756b09cd3adfaefb4a6c26e6f8a9cfa71b1) (http://s240.photobucket.com/user/Peter_T1958/media/Westlake%20Publishing%20Forum/027K_zpskc0jtn9g.jpg.html)

;), Peter

Well, nearly. I rather thought of that size

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and color.

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;)
Volker

Your curb and cobbles look very good. What is the Molto Holz Fein Spachtel composed of? You must have done some additional sanding or something after using the disc sander because the top surfaces of the cobbles are realistically canted at slightly different angles and depths. Very nice.

Bill, I don't know about the ingredients, but I'd love to. For sure there's some water soluble acrylic binder involved, but I don't know about the filler material. It is thought to be used for small, fine repairs of scratches at even wooden surfaces. I didn't do use anything else but the Dremel disk sander, changing it's position a bit during the process. The visible steps result from first making the white and then the reddish parts.

Volker

Added some grass. It is sisal rope. I'm not to sure about the result. Fibres may be a bit coarse? The second hassock from left needs some touchup to bend down the fibres abit more at the sides.

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Cheers,
Volker

The grass looks really good to me, in fact it looks like some of the few green areas in my yard.

Looks great to me, very authentic!

It depends on what you have in mind. The foliage you created looks excellent but maybe you were thinking about something with a finer texture. If you were, forget about it and stick with what you built! -- Russ

There was a building nearby the railway bridge over Oester brook: 'Haus Lohmann'. The building has long gone, even the railway lasted a few years longer than this. Fortunately there are some meaningful pictures and even some plans from a conversion dating back to 1909 preserved, when it was changed to a watchmaker and jewelry shop.


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(Picture: Albert Middelmann 10/1941; W. D. Groote collection)


Please note the lower part of the lamp visible left hand; it's the one I'd shown before. During some kind of modeling lockout a CAD drawing was the first approach to the building, which is quite interesting for it's annex and the sloped wall alongside the brook.


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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Lohmann_4.jpg&hash=bb559b54811759f8d74aad67ebebdf1d6d97bdc9)


Let's talk about transition from virtual reality to, um, real reality. A good item for that is a door. There ares some of them in such a masonry.


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The doors are made from lasered paper, cardboard and MDF. Dark brown parts are 0.5 mm cardboard, bright brown ones 1.5 mm MDF and the yellowish ones 0.15 mm (180g/m²) paper. Those are all parts required for one door and I need some 20 of them.


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The layers differ a whiff (some 0.5 mm) to create the door leafs' elevation; this is for a partially paned door. The longitudinal cutout is going to be filled with 0.5 mm steel rods.


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Note the tiny cutout in the middle layer which later on serves to position the hinges.


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Some aluminum parts served to align and fix the parts for glueing with very thin ca. I found out that it doesn't matter if there's some ca running into the gap between paper and metal; it doesn't really stick to aluminum and so paper is removable without destruction, if that happens. The point is to have the paper layers' edges protruding from the aluminum material while compressing it the same time.


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Door handles, hinges and lock bolts are 3D printed (the latter missing in the following picture). The hinges do work by inserting some 0.3 mm steel wire. I designed them with two holes, one for the hinge bolt and one to fix it to the above mentioned cutouts in the door blades and doorframes sides.  Most doors won't be in working order, of course, but doors, being closed forever, are a sad thing, aren't they?


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The door and shop windows had some ornament. I'll have some smaller parts 3D printed, but for the entrance door I used ps panel and cutter quartered tubing of different diameter to create the profiles, all from the junk box.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_9914b.JPG&hash=6bac69b651dae2897dd542c6c133f6f46c5ac7c8)


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Cheers,
Volker

Great work as usual!
Those doors look perfect. And the windows are coming along nicely. But I guess you already knew that! A pleasure to follow your work.

Disgustingly perfect. Nobody could do better. -- Russ

Fantastic work! Really love the amount of detail in those doors.

Volker the kerbs and cobble stones are spot on. I am still toying with the idea of using individual stone chips for a paving project, but you have got me rethinking my plans.

Stunning work on those doors.

Hauk, Russ, Ray, Narayan and Marc (who is that guy?), thanks for your response.

Some time ago Peter_T1958 asked me why I've done a CAD drawing for a building I'm going to have selfmade by hand tools. First of all this helps to understand the building's structure. It allows to detect mistakes in hand drawn prototype plans, which may lead to some nasty surprise during assembly. Then there's an option to have digitally manufactured parts like 3d prints and so on. Not to mentoon milling.

I loved work with rigid foam at 'quiet earth' project but was always worried of it's touchiness. I asked Frithjof to mill the facades from Forex, which is the European/German counterpart of Sintra board in the US. It seems to be the best in between being stable as well as lightweight. Well, I've surely mistaken to send the complete CAD file of the building to Frithjof:


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Aside of the facades he sent me all the inside walls.


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The building is going to be a mixture of Forex, Polystyrol and ABS. Most of the protruding parts like scuncheons, cornice and so on are made from several ps strips and boards. The first floor front side scuncheons are 3D printed.

The building's annex housed a garage. According to the available plans there must have been a bricked up former window, which will be visible looking through the maybe opened or openable garage roll-up door. Frithjof gave me some of his MDF milled brickwork and some single (real) bricks for bricklaying. I decided for the latter, because those rather neat/clean clinker walls are more typical for Germany's northern regions. Above all I wanted to show some selfmade, maybe unprofessionally bricked up window.


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Ther's a pit with lateral wheel deflectors in the garage.


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The boot scraper at the jeweler's shop front door is soldered from some brass strips, wire and angle section.


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I tested a 1940s wallpaper design for the private entrance area at the annex. I'd be happy to get some hints to designs from that period and maybe some good vertical shots or even files of those patterns, if anybody can help?

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That's going to be the germane frontdoor, cut from some veneer sheet.


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Forget the pane. I decided to have another one. That simply looks badly done.

Cheers,
Volker

Wow! -- Russ

New pane:

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Cheers,
Volker

Fantastic!!

I like the ripple glass in the last photo of the door. What did you use for that?

Quote from: Hydrostat on March 04, 2017, 12:31:58 PM
New pane:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_9978b.JPG&hash=418bacb1be6f4518c1388ec1cd9e66b8a28e0a9a)

Cheers,
Volker

The pane looks great. A far better choice than the first one.

But one thing puzzles me. The door looks very thin as there is no relief on the side shown in the picture. This could mean of course that all the relief detail is on the other side, but you would think some of it would show through the glass pane. What is the cross-section of the door like?

I might be speaking nonsense here, but I just had to ask...

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on March 04, 2017, 06:24:52 PM
I like the ripple glass in the last photo of the door. What did you use for that?

It's a self adhesive, removable foil for windows/shower cabinets I found in our local arts and craft store. They sell it as 'matt' foil, what it seem to be in 1-1 scale, but there must have been a manufacturer with a modeler's heart  :). I used a piece of 0.5 mm Vivak screen as support material. The foil doesn't adhere on that to well (like cling film doesn't on some plastics) and so I fixed them both the foil and screen with a bit of CA at each edge to the frame. If somebody wants a piece of it - I have much more than I need.

Quote from: Hauk on March 04, 2017, 09:56:46 PM
The door looks very thin as there is no relief on the side shown in the picture. This could mean of course that all the relief detail is on the other side, but you would think some of it would show through the glass pane. What is the cross-section of the door like?

Hauk, good point. I was guided by a door from a vendor of historical building material's website http://www.historische-baustoffe-kreislauf.de/antike-haustuere-eiche-von-1932.html (http://www.historische-baustoffe-kreislauf.de/antike-haustuere-eiche-von-1932.html), but didn't intend to copy it exactly. The glass frame isn't thought to be openable at my door and there's less detailing. The prototype door seems to have been 3.6 cm in diametre. Making the cross was quite difficult and I hoped to be able to eschew the back cross and frame, because they're not visible later on, but you're absolutely right. Indeed the complete door has some 1.5 mm in diametre which is prototypical in scale and one doesn't recognize that the way it is at the moment. I'll try to add cross and frame, hoping it won't show the too thick screen then ...

Thanks for your hint!

Cheers,
Volker

Here we go:

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The door frame isn't sloped; I didn't tape it correctly for the picture.

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Added some first greyish stains. More to come. Thanks again Hauk, much appreciated!

Cheers,
Volker

Volker, the door has won by the new leaf!  I like it :D


I had so much fun to transform the CAD files of Volker into milling data that I couldn´t stop until all were converted ... and as they were on the computer, they could also be milled   ;)


Wilhelmstrasse_01 (fspg2)
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All milled parts were cleaned at the edges ... I could do it in my new "dust room" very well, so Volker had no mud in his apartment.


Wilhelmstrasse_16 (fspg2)
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So the house grew peu à peu. In the following pictures the Forex sheets are stuck together with masking tape loosely.


Wilhelmstrasse_02 (fspg2)
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Wilhelmstrasse_03 (fspg2)
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Wilhelmstrasse_04 (fspg2)
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Some edges were sawed with my Böhler saw. (Angle between 12° to 45°).


Wilhelmstrasse_05 (fspg2)
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Wilhelmstrasse_06 (fspg2)
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The floor and ceiling plates I milled in two steps because of their size - my milling machine is just too small ... or the house too large.


Wilhelmstrasse_07 (fspg2)
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Wilhelmstrasse_08 (fspg2)
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Wilhelmstrasse_09 (fspg2)
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The 2mm deep grooves in the ceiling panels will be used to hold the room walls. These are interconnected also slotted. This facilitates the rectangular assembly while adding stability.


Wilhelmstrasse_10 (fspg2)
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[size=11](first floor)[/size]

Wilhelmstrasse_11 (fspg2)
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[size=11](first floor)[/size]


Wilhelmstrasse_13 (fspg2)
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The front wall got a few small slots. So the polystyrene decoration plates can  be fitted precisely.


Wilhelmstrasse_12 (fspg2)
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The attic got also walls with mitred sawn.

Wilhelmstrasse_14 (fspg2)
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The addition inside:

Wilhelmstrasse_17 (fspg2)
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The ground floor received 15mm thick walls as reinforcement:

Wilhelmstrasse_20 (fspg2)
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... a few parts I have not sent to Volker:

Forex_Reste (fspg2)
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Frithof, you have completely lost your mind! -- ssuR

Volker, The door looked very good in the earlier  photos, but now it looks better.

Frithof, I am jealous of your tools and skills, even if that creates a room full of dust :)

Astounding!

WOW! WOW! WOW!.....Allan

Recently I visited Volker. So I could see how far he has progressed his house ,,Lohmann".

Wilhelmstrasse_21 (fspg2)
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The milled parts are already stuck together as much as possible.

Wilhelmstrasse_22 (fspg2)
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All floors will be removable later.

Wilhelmstrasse_23 (fspg2)
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The basement windows have grouted panes ...

Wilhelmstrasse_24 (fspg2)
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On several walls Volker had already taken the first color attempts to mimic a convincing plaster later.

Wilhelmstrasse_25 (fspg2)
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Looking from the outside inside


Even the basement walls have received a beautiful plaster surface ... so to say, "exercise walls" - later you can not see much of it.

Wilhelmstrasse_26 (fspg2)
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view from the inside out


Later you can ,,see" Volkers new basement stairs ... or better guess through the window. :wink:

Wilhelmstrasse_27 (fspg2)
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Here his little works of art arise ....

Wilhelmstrasse_28 (fspg2)
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Volker; your work is so inspiring and wonderful. I know I don't contribute much to this site but viewing the work of the best of the best is very stimulating....Allan

Thanks for the great pics of Volker and his work. It's always nice to have a face to put with a name.

Volker, you look far better in that photo than you do on Skype -- Cary Grant vs. Frankenstein! Okay, I'm being a little harsh .... By the way, the structure is really turning out adequately. -- Russ

volker you have been so busy looking just lovely.when i saw it a couple of months ago it was just past the foundation stage.
cheers

Looks very good, Volker!

Allan, Ray, Russ, Kim, Bill - thank you.

Quote from: finescalerr on May 04, 2017, 11:51:49 PM
Volker, you look far better in that photo than you do on Skype -- Cary Grant vs. Frankenstein! Okay, I'm being a little harsh .... By the way, the structure is really turning out adequately. -- Russ

Um, both of them are dead. I have to rethink that.

Cellar windows are made from layers of Cardstock and veneer of different diameters. Maybe they could be done solely from cardboard, but I think the outer surfaces with contact to weather look a bit better with some wood texture.

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Cellar steps are done and await their final color finish.

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That's all being visible of it later on. If at all.

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Taht's why I didn't spend to much time with detailing that cellar door. Veneer is same as at the cellar steps, but with final coloring.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_0022b.JPG&hash=e8416cf39e84287aabd48d9e051883142df78149)

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Cheers,
Volker

Satisfactory. -- Russ

Stunning! I really love that window with the bars in front of it.

Your craftmanship is immaculate as always!

But I have serious doubts about your veneer... The grain look out of scale in my opinion. Which is a shame, as it is the only giveaway that your work is a model and not the real thing.

Here's a detail shot from an old wooden door. They don't appear frequently but apparently some do have very pronounced grain and cracks. -- Russ

Thanks, Ray, Hauk and Russ!

Hauk, do you think of the veneer in general or especially at the (by that time not colored) cellar steps? Without coloring it is out of scale for sure. About the door: I've seen some heavily crackled wooden cellar doors with planks like that, but the horizontal and sloped bars indeed show some out of scale grain. Howsoever please keep in mind that both the door and steps nearly won't be visible at all later on. I promise to use linden at all the visible areas  ;).

Volker

First windows are done:

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Toilet window from outside ...

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... and inside.

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Floor with victorian tiles (printed on glossy paper and joints slightly scraped wirh a toothpick).

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Garage window from the bricked up opening, moved to the 'new' exterior wall. I'm still fighting with adding putty; this works for a seldom or never cleaned window, but there are some clean ones to come. Any idea how to apply putty in extremely thin skein without leaving a mess?

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Cheers,
Volker

Looking good, Volker!

Ho-hum. Yet another example of the flawless artistry typical of this group. But we're already used to perfection. Can't you do something better than perfect? -- ssuR

nice Volker

Looks very good, Volker.

For the putty problem, would it possible to first apply some kind of mask on the window glass that covers all but the narrow edges where the putty will be applied? Maybe a thin removable tape like Scotch removable tape. There are also very thin frisket/masking films that can be cut to size. And there are water soluble masking fluids that could be applied and washed off after the putty sets

'Windows' got some kind of new meaning to me.

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Cheers,
Volker

HI VOLKER.
as usual perfect,

Yeah, I'm afraid I agree. And it's good to see you back in action. You've been gone for several weeks. -- Russ

Amazing work!

So many tiny bits that look just right, and the big pieces do too.

Great windows!!! Allan

Thanks, guys. I'd really like to have more time for modeling at the moment, but life takes it's toe.

The barely visible upper window runners are bent from some 0.3 mm steel wire and soldered to a tiny brass piece to be drilled afterwards for having a functional window. The frame's hinge is a angled 0.4 mm brass rivet as the window's guide pin is (this one not angled).

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715image.jpg&hash=402f91a7740937eba140f1d90ed362361ab79583)

A set of frames for one window consists of those lasered parts:

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Outer frame from two layers, 2 and 1 mm diameter. And there's piece of sanded wood for the lowest frame bar:

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The house has some 20 windows.

Window frames consist of two 1 mm and one 0.5 mm layers. With the additional 'glass' layer of 0.5 mm it hits the outer frames measurements.

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Then there are some additional pieces like the handles and hinges, which are FXD printed. Some 0.5 mm steel wire fits to the grooves to simulate the latch bars.

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This is how the terminal bar guides and hinges come from the printer. Hinges are hollow and have a middle predetermined breaking point to have the opportunity to make them functional. At least one or two ...  :P

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Runners, brackets and latch eyelets are lasered from thin cardboard.

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Cheers,
Volker

Okay, I give up. I'll never build a model even close to this and several others I've seen here. I think I'll just sail paper airplanes .... -- Russ

 "...life takes it's toe." . You're very lucky! Often life takes an arm and a leg (Which by the way some people would give to be able to build models like you do!)

Impressive!

Quote from: finescalerr on September 24, 2017, 11:47:42 AM
Okay, I give up. I'll never build a model even close to this and several others I've seen here. I think I'll just sail paper airplanes .... -- Russ

I never understood why you try to build models anyway, according to the numerous beautiful girls in thong bikinis, each eager to cater to your every whim?

Wait - I didn't get a joke?

Quote from: Bill Gill on September 24, 2017, 01:29:28 PM
"...life takes it's toe." . You're very lucky! Often life takes an arm and a leg (Which by the way some people would give to be able to build models like you do!)

Glad I have ten of them  :). To continue complaining about first world problems: I didn't find an opportunity to have the 0.5 mm glass screen lasercut for a resonable price, that I kindly got from German Schott Glas company. I used acrylic glass instead and meanwhile I'm sure glass would have brought along a bunch of problems according to it's fragility. Well, the screen is packed in a huge (repeat: huge) parcel right behind my desk and I'm afraid I'll have to dispose of it  :-\. Modeler - clutterer - what's the differnce?

Cheers,
Volker

As the new kid on the block I haven't seen your work until just the last few days. I have to agree with the others: incredible, fantastic, impressive, and most satisfactory! You have also given me some ideas on stuff I am working on, like the cellar windows with bars for my jail project (there will be 49 such windows).

Like you, and for the reasons you mentioned, I also try to integrate CAD-based design into my work (I use SketchUp). Another advantage is that if I want to modify my design, I can simply save a copy of the digital file and have at it without fear of messing up what I want to keep or having to recreate it, and, like you said, it facilitates the use of 3D printing and other technical modelling that requires vector files. I have also been experimenting with my daughter's Cricut machine to cut out strips of shingles, strips of thin styrene, et al., which also require vector files that I create in Adobe Illustrator and SketchUp.

Looking forward to seeing more!

One of the shop windows seems to have been replaced for adding a shutter. A good opportunity to work with that 50s' shop windows appearance and shiny brass. The upper screen is painted black on the back, Jack. The big one won't be installed before finishing all the coarse work at first floor and facade.

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Cheers,
Volker

Hi Volker,

there should be a roller shutter in the roller-shutter box, which you can lower.
That would make this great model incomparably.

You can see the lower lamella. I don't think that there's a need to have everything working in amodel. Controlled by ghost hands.

Volker; I must recant my previous statement that these are great windows. They are absolutely INCREDIBLE!!!!!...Allan

Is there ANYTHING you can't recreate perfectly in miniature? -- Russ

Ok now, that is so good I thought it was the prototype and had to go back for a second look to confirm it's the model!

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on November 17, 2017, 05:46:14 PM
Ok now, that is so good I thought it was the prototype and had to go back for a second look to confirm it's the model!

Me too!

Quote from: finescalerr on November 17, 2017, 10:42:13 AM
Is there ANYTHING you can't recreate perfectly in miniature? -- Russ

The modeler's annual. And that is missing really hard. When do you plan to publish the first online issue?

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on November 17, 2017, 05:46:14 PM
Ok now, that is so good I thought it was the prototype and had to go back for a second look to confirm it's the model!

Oh, wow. Thank you Ray and Greg.

Volker, go stand in the corner. -- Russ

QuoteAny idea how to apply putty in extremely thin skein without leaving a mess?

Volker I did do this on one of my models. First I held the glass in with tiny spots of glue, then used a white Sculpy with a small putty knife. putty generally is painted afterwards anyway.

Michael

Quote from: michael mott on November 21, 2017, 07:52:58 AM
Volker I did do this on one of my models. First I held the glass in with tiny spots of glue, then used a white Sculpy with a small putty knife. putty generally is painted afterwards anyway.
Michael

Thanks, Michael. For some reasons I didn't use glass, but acrylic glass, which is easily scratched when working with a putty knife and even by removing excess with a piece of fabric or paper. I think glass is less delicate.

Good evening Ladies* and Gentlemen!

Added some parts. There's a blackened screen with the shop owner's cypher to come where there's a brass screen now:


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When I closed the shutter ...


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... and opened it afterwards there was an additional door and some trifles. Simply astonishing, but it happened. Must have been any christmas thingie.


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A bit closer.


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Another bit closer for some dust and fuzz. And for unmissable evidence of my decreasing eyesight according to the aperture's screws.


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Door is made of veneer and CA.


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There are show cases to come at both entrance's sides.


Cheers,
Volker

*Russ, I hope your bikini girls have an account, too. Otherwise please forget this interjection.

Volker, your store looks like it will be so expensive and upper class I will give each of the bikini girls a platinum card with unlimited credit. The modeling isn't bad, either. -- Russ

Wow! Great work! What is the shutter made of?

The shutter is lasered (i. e. cut and engraved) cardboard of 0.5 mm diameter. I drenched it with spar varnish to have it a bit more stable. At the lowest lamella there's an additional piece of brass angle section over the complete width. It's able to roll it up and down a few times which is efficient to get to some different pictures later on. I don't need to have it 'working', but there'll be a hidden string to help closing it because it doesn't roll up to well because of it's stiffness.

When I closed the shutter ..
... and opened it afterwards there was an additional door and some trifles. Simply astonishing, but it happened. Must have been any christmas thingie.

So you are saying when the Christmas thingie opens a window, it closes a door? :) And and excellent looking door it is.

Wonderful work!

This is so great. You should be adding this to the miniature rooms in the Art Institute of Chicago.

Quote from: nk on January 11, 2018, 05:34:07 PM
This is so great. You should be adding this to the miniature rooms in the Art Institute of Chicago.

Haha, first I'd need to overcome my aviatophobia.

From this side of the pond the door won't be accessible later on; door handle then is only visible through door pane.

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For some time I bothered about the ps business for the shop entrance's sideways show cases, including the shutter box.

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The whole composition needs to be removable and I soon felt, that I was neither willing nor able to give a corresponding wooden look to the styrene parts in direct neighbourhood of a wooden door. To cap it all the edges started to loose their coloring after repeatedly assembling and demounting the entrance at the house (it slides into the walls from above).  

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So i decided to start a new approach with veneer and I like the result much more.

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I reused the shutter box, which won't be visible later on.

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I faced an interesting challenge with the cord, which helps to close the shutter. It runs from the shutter box axle into the brass tube ...

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... and then straight through the basement wall, but there was no borehole and I don't have that long drills do make a vertical bore straight alongside the building's walls. And the brass tube needed to hit that bore exactly (the black flyspeck close to the corner).

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To measure and mark the right position wasn't that difficult, but again I didn't have a drill that long to bore that hole from down under (pun intended. I hope there is some ???).

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I predrilled with a bigger drill as deep as possible and then glued the final diameter's drill into a brass tube of the predrilled bore's diameter to bridge the distance.

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That worked. Somehow (the flyspeck is the borhole  ;D).

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I'm afraid that's going to be boring to you.

And now to something completely different.

Some years ago a friend (thanks, Torsten!) gave me a lot of little clock-face lights. I still feel that no LED can bring the same light effect a bulb brings.

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The lights are soldered to small board pieces, which are soldered to self adhesive copper foil strips adhering to some cardboard.

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This shapes the sideward part, which is glued with CA to the rear cover of the show case.

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And that's what all this fuzz was about:

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Please excuse me repeating that very similar picture; it's the only one to get an idea of the radial light effect of those actual bulbs. It's nearly impossible to have both the warm light impression of the bulbs and the radial appearance in one picture, which is clearly visible with the naked eye.

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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715shop_entrance.jpg&hash=febe4879f3301e7e6023b9af62d88c23f4ff20ea)

Show case displays like watches and glasses to come ... I couldn't wait to add that poster at least.

Cheers,
Volker

really nice Volker.

Marvelous work!

Superb. -- Russ

Excellent!

Unbelievable!....Allan

Wish the guy who fitted your door - fitted my front door !
Excellent work - such detail
Barney

Truly amazing!

What a beautiful effect. You are right, the warmth of light from the incandescent bulbs really adds to the atmosphere.

Added a plank floor to one of the showrooms.


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Cheers,
Volker

Now that is nice!

Looks ready to move in. Where do I sign the lease?    :)

     I'm glad that someone else has proved that one can extend the length of microdrills with a piece of brass tube.

     On an upcoming project I need to drill a number of 0.031" holes to insert brass rod formed into rivet heads as I assemble the frame to a 1/48 scale model of the East Broad Top's Scale Test Car.  Many of the holes will be to far into the frame to reach with normal length bits. 

     This reinforces my comment on another thread on this forum that there is a broad base of talent which freely shares those talents.     

Greg and Ray, thank you.

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on February 06, 2018, 05:55:32 PM
Looks ready to move in. Where do I sign the lease?    :)

If you manage to move in there, there's no need to sign a lease  :D. (keep your Megaweapon out. There's only space for a ferrari).

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Quote from: Lawton Maner on February 06, 2018, 07:36:28 PM
     I'm glad that someone else has proved that one can extend the length of microdrills with a piece of brass tube.

     On an upcoming project I need to drill a number of 0.031" holes to insert brass rod formed into rivet heads as I assemble the frame to a 1/48 scale model of the East Broad Top's Scale Test Car.  Many of the holes will be to far into the frame to reach with normal length bits. 

     This reinforces my comment on another thread on this forum that there is a broad base of talent which freely shares those talents.     

I'm always a bit embarrassed by people telling me that there's a right and a wrong way to do things. Of course there may be extra long drills available, but in this case it's just a piece of plastic to be bored. Whatever solution works is a good solution  ;). If you have a lathe at hand it's no problem to fit the bit centric to the tubing, which becomes more important the smaller the drillbit's diameter is or the more often you need to work with it.

Another shot of the wear at the floor:

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I added another wooden floor in the neighbouring room, which is going to house a little workshop.

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Cheers,
Volker

Actually there is room for two Ferraris. The problem is fitting them through that door. -- Russ

Volker, if you really want to be cool...instead of a plain old red Ferrari mysteriously sitting in the showroom, how about Elon Musk's red Tesla Roadster currently en route to a solar/mars orbit :)

Quote from: Bill Gill on February 07, 2018, 02:19:30 PM
Volker, if you really want to be cool...instead of a plain old red Ferrari mysteriously sitting in the showroom, how about Elon Musk's red Tesla Roadster currently en route to a solar/mars orbit :)

Including the house? Now that would be cool. 

Some progress at the entrance:


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the facade got some color, consisting of slightly brownish/yellowish tinted white wall paint and very fine silicon carbide, applied dabbing with some wide soft brushes.

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Attaching the characters to the acrylic glass screen was a bit tricky. A friend (Paul, thanks a lot again!) etched the letters and their outline as template from 0.2 mm brass.

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I glued the outline to removable double faced adhesive tape and then inserted the cleaned up characters. Removing the outline sheet leaves the cipher mirror-inverted behind.

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Then a sheet of acrylic glass was applied with a thin layer of GS Hypocement to the Characters; excess is removable with alcohol afterwards. Hypothetically.

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I had to learn and redo it some times ... well, note: GS Hypocement sticks to brass, but more or less not to acrylic glass. When I tried to remove the screen with the characters from the adhesive tape (taped to some aluminum angle section), most of them sticked rather to the tape than to the screen. So i taped it first to some paper sheet and this with usual tape to the aluminum piece. This allows to remove the double sided tape carefully from the characters, but still some fell off anyway. After several tries I made it the hard way, applying CA to each letter, which looked horrifying for the blotches of CA. But it is removable with aceton, which takes a lot of time with a soft brush, but it worked without scratching the screen to much. I hope this will bear up for some time ... :P

Cheers,
Volker

That's "letter-perfect", Volker! The name and the facade are excellent.

If the CA does not hold up over time, Investigate the possibilities of using some type of 3M clear adhesive on a roll as a possibility.
I got some sample ends of various industrial 3m adhesives years ago from a friend. They worked well on dissimilar materials and stayed clear.
Some 3M adhesives are made for applications where they need to be clear and transparent. Many are intended to permanently attach things that will be outside, exposed to the weather -like automobile trim for example, so these are durable adhesives. You can contact 3M's technical support and describe what you are using it for and they can suggest and perhaps send samples to try.

another adhesive to consider is the stuff used to bond watch crystals to the case. not sure of the names of the stuff, but try the watchmakers suppliers.

How will you keep the brass from oxidizing? -- Russ

Russ, good point. I was tempted to leave them brass parts 'raw', but it would be very difficult to get them shiny again. Cellulose lacquer seems to be suitable, which comes in silk matte and high gloss.

Quote from: SandiaPaul on February 27, 2018, 05:36:10 PM
another adhesive to consider is the stuff used to bond watch crystals to the case. not sure of the names of the stuff, but try the watchmakers suppliers.

I thought GS Hypocement is a brand used in jewelry profession ??? Obviously the acrylic glass is the problem.

Quote from: Bill Gill on February 27, 2018, 03:03:38 PM
That's "letter-perfect", Volker! The name and the facade are excellent.

If the CA does not hold up over time, Investigate the possibilities of using some type of 3M clear adhesive on a roll as a possibility.
I got some sample ends of various industrial 3m adhesives years ago from a friend. They worked well on dissimilar materials and stayed clear.
Some 3M adhesives are made for applications where they need to be clear and transparent. Many are intended to permanently attach things that will be outside, exposed to the weather -like automobile trim for example, so these are durable adhesives. You can contact 3M's technical support and describe what you are using it for and they can suggest and perhaps send samples to try.

Bill, thank you for your thoughts. I woudn't know how to cut out the tape that exactly.

Cheers,
Volker

" I woudn't know how to cut out the tape that exactly." Volker
My thought would be to first unroll a bit of the adhesive (it has a protective non stick paper layer on one face), lay it sticky side up on a smooth surface,  lay the individual letters onto the exposed sticky side, cover them all with a sheet of non stick paper (maybe waxed paper?), burnish the letters onto the adhesive, remove the waxed paper and carefully cut around the perimeter of each letter using the brass edges as a template.

That's how I would try to do it, but I still think it would be difficult to cut around the character's curves and corners that exactly, avoiding tiny pieces of tape peeping out from them?

What if instead of using the tip of a blade you tried the tip of a very sharp, round stylus point that could trace around the letters right at their edge?
The adhesives I tried were all kind of gooey, not runny, but they wanted to stick to whatever they touched. The tip of the stylus would probably need to be wiped with something like silicone spray or WD-40 to keep it from sticking to the adhesive as it traced around the letters, and you would have to press lightly, tracing around several times to keep from tearing the adhesive.

Another thought, completely outside my experience, would be to find out about the very thin, very clear, very tough adhesives that they put on labels to apply to bottles. some labels are really hard to remove, yet the adhesive is totally invisible when viewed from the other side of the bottle, looking at the inside.

Of course all of this would only become necessary IF what you have now fails in the future, so it could all be moot.

The sign looks great, and really brings the front of the building to life.

Volker, where on your layout will the new structure or structures go? Are you building an addition, are you replacing existing structures, or do you have something else in mind? -- Russ

Quote from: Bill Gill on February 28, 2018, 12:57:50 PM
Of course all of this would only become necessary IF what you have now fails in the future, so it could all be moot.

Bill, that's what I do hope  :D! But I'll keep your suggestions in mind; there are more alike parts to come.

Quote from: finescalerr on March 02, 2018, 09:18:47 PM
Volker, where on your layout will the new structure or structures go? Are you building an addition, are you replacing existing structures, or do you have something else in mind? -- Russ

Russ, it doesn't relate to 'quiet earth' at all and so it is an independent project, but please let me cite a person beyond any doubt, a person with publicity that has given up everything his occupational life was about, retired from the world, forgotten by his friends: 'The model is about one-third to half complete, the third major structure for a [...] diorama I may never build.' When I was young (wait: that was only 4 or 5 years ago  >:(?)) I planned to build a huge segmental exhibition layout of a completely prototypical situation, which would be about 8.3 x 3.2 m:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Segmente.JPG&hash=4e607944d5109bfb68cea64b8a38046a2fc9992b)

Meanwhile I acquired a tiny weeny bit more adulthood and understood, that we don't know how much time we've got on earth - and that it may be a bit scarce in the light of my progresses' speed. Going to model shows isn't my main concern anymore - and I ain't got the space to erect and store all the parts at the moment at all. But: taking pictures, which became more important to me, is possible without having a completed layout. Nevertheless I can't stop following the initial idea and inspiration of that place and so I just started tinkering around with some parts. I'm quite sure to build at least the violet and upper green area, which containes the bridge as well as the building. As you can see, there isn't to much sense in it. But some hope - what a great prompting.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Segmentteilung.jpg&hash=b1236ff517cfb460398647b2031d2b4ec56afe7c)

Cheers,
Volker

Hi Volker

This is really inspiring work and your technical skills keep on amazing me. Those two pics of the entrance show them very clearly - very clean work and with a little wear and weathering they will absolutly look like the real thing.

Quote from: Hydrostat on March 04, 2018, 04:32:04 AM
Meanwhile I acquired a tiny weeny bit more adulthood and understood, that we don't know how much time we've got on earth - and that it may be a bit scarce in the light of my progresses' speed.

Yes, a fact what occupies me more and more in my almost 60 years of life. When I consider that my second last project took more then 15 years, my last 5 years and on my present project I am working since six years, time will become a factor to be considered before starting a new one. But perhaps it's a matter of how many projects going around in my head ... ;D

Lokking forward to every update!
Peter

Despite its slightly inaccurate reference to the internationally renowned and most highly regarded icon of our hobby, thank you for that rambling answer, Volker. Now go stand in the corner. -- Russ

I agree with all - great stuff
Barney

Hi,

there was some distraction for the last year. I've been doing the layout and image editing for Wolf Groote's new book about the Plettenberg Railway, which is to be published in November: https://shop.vgbahn.info/vgbahn/shop/plettenberger+kleinbahn-_4619.html (https://shop.vgbahn.info/vgbahn/shop/plettenberger+kleinbahn-_4619.html)

Now that the project is finished I found some time for a tiny bit of modeling.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Ofen1.jpg&hash=e214f47969f47839ef31e94f8bb4c89e2b59ec24)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Ofen2.jpg&hash=981edeb26b684a1622a90dc7cc9556e7dfab2915)

The stove and pipe elbows are 3D printed; cover is movable. Heat protection shield is made from 0.2 mm brass sheet and 3mm copper wire soldered to the edge.

Hope to contribute more soon.

Cheers,
Volker

great stove Volker I am assuming that the original was enamel finish?

Very nice!

A satisfactory accomplishment given the circumstances. In the future, however, be certain nothing distracts you from model building. -- Russ

Volker, Your model stove is most convincing!!
Would the real stove have a coal scuttle next to it since the stove is small and would need stoking often?

Thanks, Kim, Ray, Russ and Bill.

Quote from: 1-32 on September 25, 2018, 09:18:24 PM
great stove Volker I am assuming that the original was enamel finish?

Kim, you're right. Here's a link to the prototype: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Ofen-Kanonenofen-Emaille-Ofen-Gussofen-alter-Ofen/253409974715 (https://www.ebay.de/itm/Ofen-Kanonenofen-Emaille-Ofen-Gussofen-alter-Ofen/253409974715)

Quote from: Bill Gill on September 26, 2018, 05:34:35 AM
Would the real stove have a coal scuttle next to it since the stove is small and would need stoking often?

Bill, a coal scuttle is still to come as all the interior of the room is. It's going to be a small workshop/storage room. I think I messed the wall a bit up with black pigments, trying to achieve the edge blackening effect of old buildings with coal heating.

This picture shows coloring and surface much better than the other ones. Note the surface difference at the pipe elbows. Both are printed at shapeways, maybe with a different orientation:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Oefen_3.jpg&hash=72c6c76a4d9d8e3c85a8785c21077578658f15f6)

Cheers,
Volker

Hi,

another cast iron stove for the large shop room:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_0765b.jpg&hash=b24df5f8904f29e527a3510ad0a0dfa73e203a3d)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_0759b.jpg&hash=f7a5cf3de91126fde6445d3b9669f0b7ded7ef34)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_0775b.jpg&hash=9a14c76d0227d2070ac02e47ea3b85f19a4daa8b)

And a test print for the street bridge hand rail by Kalle Stümpfl, which is attached to the building's left side.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_0781b.jpg&hash=031e88c13a3fbe019b252dc320273f95f5a0abb5)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_0785b.jpg&hash=b8b6d05002da00e988fabdd947e99b2f37ba680f)

Wall thickness is 0.4 mm at the flourishes. I'm thrilled of the result. It's just some color from a spray can. No rework, no sanding aside of 6 or 8 tiny spots from support structures. And no dust removal before taking the pictures  ::).

Cheers,
Volker

The stove and handrail sure look good.

Always love seeing your work , but that steel handrail is really superb ...... so much better than all the plethora of laser cut versions that are on the market ........ yours really has a 3D look with the resting straps and the different thicknesses of the various parts

You know, I'm really getting tired of seeing so much perfection in your modeling. Nothing to criticize (except maybe the dust), instead always a superb example of what we all should aspire to. It's disgusting, I tell you, just disgusting! -- Russ

Both the stove and railing are beautiful, but the railing is especially impressive!

Some late news of the Lohmann building w-i-p:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1160948b-web.jpg&hash=5fc9a2be3af79086ea6c75bb36f24530a7ba0f91)

The stairway connects first and second floor and is made from some wood stripes and toothpicks. It doesn't make to much sense to model that item, because it will be nearly hidden later on. There'll be one insight into the hallway like that, but the stairway to the next floor is still to come:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170002b-web.jpg&hash=af01cd2b6604e3f268054025c446a8ba0ad0003c)

For the annex I tried to imitate some parquet. I found some nice vertical pictures, which I combined via photoshop for the needed area. It's printed on semi glossy photo paper and all the joints are carved with a scriber.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1160998b-web.jpg&hash=0e2f8285c3d95c53b0b9dc32eb8a11bec5116f89)

Some brass tubing, filed down to an adequate wall thickness at their ends, and copper foil from an circuit board serve as stovepipes.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1160951b-web.jpg&hash=496a79f572403779c79fe4bba76c5c038558d5c1)

For this year the broom was sent to the corner and the jacket is chucked in.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1160987b.jpg&hash=eb54debd533e8f167c5665da4009dd2b33003eda)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1160994b-web.jpg&hash=7c0e376b23b64a38e992e2a45ae633d86dd6d79d)

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Cheers,
Volker

Disturbingly perfect. You have lost your mind. -- Russ

Wow, that is impressive! If I had a mind to lose in order to get results like that, I'd do it in a flash.

Wow!! Great work!

Quote from: finescalerr on December 21, 2018, 11:16:57 AM
Disturbingly perfect. You have lost your mind. -- Russ

Russ, how are you doing. It has been a long time since we talked to each other. I didn't loose my mind, but I'm a bit concerned about this prevalently heard statement: Not because of any doubt about my mental health but the lack of discussion it provokes. I thank you (and Bill and Ray) for the appreciation, but I'm missing the critisism found here eons before.

I'm in some trouble with modeling curtains. I want to achieve both the fabric appearance in texture and shape. I used paper muffin baking tins because I wasn't able to undulate paper without producing kinks. I think the shape has some potential, but I'm not to sure about the fabric appearance. To my eyes it looks to much like what it is: paper.


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I'd be happy to get any ideas which material to use or hints to some good examples of modeled curtains.

Cheers,
Volker

Volker

As far as I can make out from your pictures there are two "problems" in your curtains.
First, the folds in the fabric become sharper downwards, but for curtains it's more the other way round - or not ???- secondly, a (very, very) slight yellowish tint, and your curtains would look very realistic to me!

Cheers, Peter

Have you ever thought of using older linen handkerchiefs?  I've seen them used in smaller scales to represent canvas tents after being dyed with a strong shot tea.

After thinking about it, maybe a woman's handkerchief might work better because they are made a lot more dainty.

Peter and Lawton,

good points. After Peter's hint I collected some more information about how curtains were made back then at our local petty wears shop. The shop owner is a doll house maker herself and we had some interesting talk about modeling techniques. Indeed the paper tins don't work because of the way they are folded and I think that's what Peter mentiond. Unwrapped it is a circle segment, but the curtain has to be a rectangle, which means, that it is closer and tight folded at the upper end and free falling downwards. The linen handkerchiefs Lawton mentioned are even for 1-22.5 scale a bit to strong textured, but it gave an good idea for the right direction. I bought 3 strips of white satin to test, which is even more dense. Let's see, what it is going to look like. Helmut pointed me to a rotary cutter, which will be very helpful with those small patches of satin.

Thanks again!

Cheers,
Volker

I'm not sure what kind of curtain you want to model. Right now your curtain has the look and texture sort of like a honeycomb shade that was rotated 90 degrees (see first two photos below).Those shades often run in a channel, which also looks sort of like what you have.

White curtains that I have seen have been nearly opaque, somewhat translucent or nearly transparent. They could be cotton, or linen, or now frequently polyester. Whatever the material, there is a narrow hem along the top where either curtain rings are attached or a curtain rod slides into the folded "tube" of the hem. There is also a wider hem at the bottom. Both hems are often very noticeable. (See next two photos below.)

It's rather the kind of curtain in your last picture. The hems are clearly visible. The lady from the shop told me that back then frequently at the upper end some 4 or 5cm of the fabric (including the seam) was fold over and sewed so one could insert a metal or wooden rod. Of course the curtain needs to be wider than the window to achieve the fall of the folds.

This is the annex with a blow-up of the windows.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715lohmann_anbau.jpg&hash=0360b61089f272bbdc89faf749756d53b1c0312e)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715lohmann_anbau_fenster.jpg&hash=ce25ddb3508c4279dd7a884d484b67aff1afb475)

At the moment I'm back to paper handkerchiefs (which make hems much easier than fabric), because even satin doesn't fall like scale fabric at all: From a distance it has exactly the right lucency, but it looks to coarse in both texture and shape. I'll show some pictures as soon as there's a showable result. Or if.

Cheers,
Volker

Silk?

 :D That's funny! I mixed up the words satin and silk: It is silk what I tried, not satin.

The main challenge will be the fall of the folds. As I may see, on top they are gathered very close but also irregular. Due to the gathers there are more folds then on the lower part. Hmmm, very difficult  to archive!
Here some examples:
(https://images108.fotki.com/v1221/photos/4/3824994/14463210/il_fullxfull_1547435134_rv34-vi.jpg) (https://images59.fotki.com/v905/photos/4/3824994/14463210/xalteGardine70erJahreVorhang50-vi.jpg)
Spontaneously, dressing materials come to my mind ... :-\

Some results with a single layer of paper handkerchief, folded around a brass rod (= resulting double layer), drenched with thinned elmer's glue, pushed together and shaped with a toothpick.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170013b.jpg&hash=c922c604422617b549a15b05e4bbf8e638e78087)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170021b.jpg&hash=4eef271d411e63b4b362903963be9141a89aba13)

I'm not to sure.  >:( ???

Cheers,
Volker

The paper handkerchief and the irregular folds look a lot closer to what you want.
a couple thoughts:
Peter wondered about all the tucks in the top hem compared to fewer folds for the body of the curtain. If the top inside of the curtain is visible from some viewing angle, you could cut a long, thin strip of the paper the height of the top hem and fold many many tiny accordion pleats in it, then glue it to the many body of the curtain.
The texture of the paper handkerchief looks like curtains that have been washed, but not ironed, perhaps not a characteristic of some households.
Some people have used paper teabags for fabric. If the overall size of a teabag is big enough, that might provide you with a curtain that will have the gentle folds in it, but not look wrinkled.

You are getting very close.

I have no idea how well it might work but I wonder whether cigarette paper might be of use. If not for curtains, maybe something else.

Some clarinetists use cigarette paper to absorb condensation from the instrument's tone holes. (Condensation occurs when you blow into a clarinet on a cold night, just like when you breathe on cold glass.) The paper is very thin but might fold more accurately than Kleenex or paper handkerchiefs. Decades ago my clarinet teacher gave me some and I probably still have it. I can't find it or I would photograph a piece for you.

Russ

I think the results you got with the paper tissue is darn good. I've tried to do the same and never got close to the look you achieved.

Quote from: Bill Gill on December 28, 2018, 07:47:59 PM
The texture of the paper handkerchief looks like curtains that have been washed, but not ironed, perhaps not a characteristic of some households.

Bill,
you nailed it. That's the general problem with paper: as soon as it gets wet, it starts to corrugate irregularly.

Quote from: Bill Gill on December 28, 2018, 07:47:59 PM
Some people have used paper teabags for fabric. If the overall size of a teabag is big enough, that might provide you with a curtain that will have the gentle folds in it, but not look wrinkled.

I'll give that a try.

Quote from: finescalerr on December 28, 2018, 08:30:17 PM
I have no idea how well it might work but I wonder whether cigarette paper might be of use. If not for curtains, maybe something else.

Russ,
some time ago I got a huge sheet by a company manufacturing cigarette paper. For sure it has a very good texture, but it tends to wrinkle like the handkerchief paper does, too.

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on December 28, 2018, 10:06:25 PM
I think the results you got with the paper tissue is darn good. I've tried to do the same and never got close to the look you achieved.

Ray,
thank you. I think it is a question of material rather than workmanship so I'll go on testing.

Cheers,
Volker

Just to illustrate what I said about the silk, and it is a quite fine quality:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170023b.jpg&hash=3e9f73cb82887e56b08d9ef780dbd0023e76a7d2)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170024b.jpg&hash=84588e783d21079d31109f736b16268db534d1d0)

Left hand paper, right hand silk:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170025b.jpg&hash=f5f713231baf2f62e56597b44296806f43f37869)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170026b.jpg&hash=e9fa5b56bc7b53a36b9df495a019a62229179ceb)

With any cloth, you can steam and iron it prior to shaping to get a crisp fold representing curtains which have been pressed prior to hanging.  I think the silk has a better texture then the Kleenex.  Just don't SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) catch you stealing her clothes.   ;D ;D

Quote from: Lawton Maner on December 29, 2018, 08:21:01 AM
With any cloth, you can steam and iron it prior to shaping to get a crisp fold representing curtains which have been pressed prior to hanging.  I think the silk has a better texture then the Kleenex.  Just don't SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) catch you stealing her clothes.   ;D ;D

If there's a crisp fold you're surely right. But I've got no idea how to achieve that falling waves with real fabric. At Pinterest there are a lot of examples from the dollhouse makers, but for my opinion it doesn't work at scales below 1-12 (and at that scale there are some pretty darn good examples).

Next try with tea bags:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170027b.jpg&hash=f2479e5d9bf6360cb21ad502aec4db1559ed5300)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170031b.jpg&hash=4c08f41409ab019c825eb3141c4377f51b46a801)

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It's still a bit coarse, but I like the rather translucent appearance and the fact that it may be much smoother after some testing. It's tendency to corrugate is much lower than at the handkerchief paper. Even the seam is easily to do by folding and unfolding the bag and then cutting away excess material. I'll take another try with a tenous bag.

Cheers,
Volkee

I think these latest tests are quite good. Make them
a little longer, to fit window, and it will be great.
Carlo

Quote from: Hydrostat on December 29, 2018, 10:28:22 AM
At Pinterest there are a lot of examples from the dollhouse makers.

As I am also at pinterest I took a look there. Although there is some brillant workmanship, your latest attempts look a lot better then all what I saw. In particular they don't have that widespread dollhouse character. Seems, you are on the right track!

The teabag curtains look very good!

The tea bag curtains look good.

I remember many curtains like those from my wild and misspent youth. Most looked no better than your teabag curtains. -- Russ

Carlo, Peter, Ray, Bill, Russ,

here we go: The tea bags were the way to go and I think the results come as close as possible (for me  ;D). Thank you for the valuable hints and ideas!


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If you unfold a teabag, there are thiose tiny seams, where they are connected. They are easy to open. They serve as the lower curtain seam. At the upper end some 4 or 5 mm are wrapped around a brass rod. For the following steps it helps to glue both the seam and the wrap with thinned watertight pva (I didn't and had some fun  >:().


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When it's dry, start to push the paper together alongside the rod. The lower part will start to wrinkle somehow. To bring that into a convincing shape I threaded it through a comb's prongs. Unlike at the picture it proved better to do this with the rod inserted. It's a bit tricky, because you can't pull it through the comb, but rather have to thread it from the prongs' tip downwards.


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Some steel wire serves as cornice. If you push the curtain to it's desired density, it starts to swing outwards in a not prototypical manner. I fixed that by positioning some block alongside the curtain. Afetr one or two days the paper keeps the shape.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170046b.jpg&hash=803fd89a066ced1460368eae7ab99dcca88a8937)


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I often have to upend the building or put it to it's sides. Some distance plates screwed to the edges of the building prevent damage.


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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170041b.jpg&hash=65908727441148e9216af8e24a7bc53d7bc99eea)


I use facade color mixed with pva and some very fine slate dust to "install" the windows. I think it makes a huge difference if the windows look that tightly connected to the building. And it is necessary to avoid light shining through any tiny chink. Filling the gaps with this color mix only works at horizontal edges: The vertical joint has to be filled after turning the building around again.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170036b.jpg&hash=2c184c2fdcfbc81563bc2b78d347f325d3891302)


Cheers,
Volker

Excellent! I will have to give the teabags a try on one of my buildings.

I forgot something: if you've threaded the paper to the comb, drench it with thinned pva. At that step the curtain pole seams tend to open. Here the watertight pva may help, but I didn't try it.

Your work will make many dollhouse people jealous. -- Russ

Why does this discussion make me feel like a Peeping Tom?  Brilliant work as always.  By now we would expect no less from you.  I enjoy working in a smaller scale where I can just hint at something and it passes the 1 meter test (if it looks good @ 1 meter it is good).

Quote from: Lawton Maner on January 07, 2019, 07:43:18 AM
Why does this discussion make me feel like a Peeping Tom?  Brilliant work as always.  By now we would expect no less from you.  I enjoy working in a smaller scale where I can just hint at something and it passes the 1 meter test (if it looks good @ 1 meter it is good).

I think Volker doesn't know the 1m rule and certainly obeys it like Frithjof and I follow the rule, if I take a close-up and the object still looks good in the magnification, the model is OK.

Helmut, I have always, even as a child, approached my models just as you, Frithjof, and Volker. I bet almost everybody on this forum does, including Lawton (even if he tries not to admit it). -- Russ

Hi Russ, I think as a Finescal model builder, this is also the only right way.

Quote from: Lawton Maner on January 07, 2019, 07:43:18 AM
Why does this discussion make me feel like a Peeping Tom?

Took quite a while until i got it  :D. Good one!

I have 2 levels of modeling.  Since the main thrust is to support a 1:48 scale layout much of it is under the 1 meter rule.  I don't go as far as some who do not model the back side of a structure because it won't be seen because I will know what is there.  The other is for models which will be seen close up and they are given a lot more care.

More good work, Volker. Thanks for the update.

Here's a look at my current bench; the curved led lamp is an idea stolen from Chuck. The joint to the wall is movable so I can change lighting direction a bit.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170038b.jpg&hash=05eab1e5a8b4f30dc39a09481dd898b9a54da338)


What I really love about the prototype building is it's quirkiness. Please note the skewed wall separating the annex's first floor from the main building. The basement floor is rectangular to the right wall. Neither from pictures nor the construction plans I found an explanation for that.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170041b.jpg&hash=65908727441148e9216af8e24a7bc53d7bc99eea)


The roller shutter of the garage is driven by a small geared motor at the wall of the little workshop.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170051b.jpg&hash=ce4f34c4cd52c1b0372e4d0a7c9f378df1adf127)


A large cabinet hides it away. This is an quite unusual piece for a workshop but my idea was that they used whatever they had in stock in the early post WWII era.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170053b.jpg&hash=4d6f75b1f99da23e1b04a5b415f849c13b1bd668)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170054b.jpg&hash=b44aa27f304b4b18bbb65b6c0346e26a537ddc41)


The cabinet is made from some fine structured veneer and basswood strips. the bench is made from cardboard, photo glossy paper, some iron rods and putty. I was looking a long time for an opticians workshop interior and recently found an interesting site with some pictures: https://brillen-fuchs.de/uns-kennenlernen/bilderchronik-brillen-fuchs/1901-2/ (https://brillen-fuchs.de/uns-kennenlernen/bilderchronik-brillen-fuchs/1901-2/). The bench is inspired from this picture (https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fbrillen-fuchs.de%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F1930-Lehrling-in-Werkstatt-kl.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fbrillen-fuchs.de%2Funs-kennenlernen%2Fbilderchronik-brillen-fuchs%2Fwerktstattchronik%2F&docid=zr68xHKQKHcpnM&tbnid=N6SjeBe24JRi_M%3A&vet=10ahUKEwiE0N2Ky87fAhVHFiwKHaIqCm4QMwhIKAwwDA..i&w=1000&h=775&client=firefox-b-ab&bih=1326&biw=2560&q=optiker%20werkstatt%2050er%20jahre&ved=0ahUKEwiE0N2Ky87fAhVHFiwKHaIqCm4QMwhIKAwwDA&iact=mrc&uact=8).

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170042b.jpg&hash=2fd08bc006796728ee8bf6d3be50cb39f2a6466b)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170043b.jpg&hash=8e7918c35c314fbf3125fc9d2d6dbe61efe8278b)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170049b.jpg&hash=c1663a7ffc9b4605ec510159038657ead98d70e4)


I don't wanna miss to show the christmas gift I got from Helmut; it's standing right beside the stove:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170065b.jpg&hash=ac8ce596f7c7b4439b4690a2d05f9acf55af626e)


It came with four sisters:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170064b.jpg&hash=dfa77aa018132d392116680f4d5c68299451cb2f)


Helmut provides a post about how he has done it: http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1446.msg59797#msg59797 (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1446.msg59797#msg59797). Well, and that is going to be my next project:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Flachsp_l-Klosett_Nr_1034B-1.jpg&hash=98742c6461daf59e8690b0a4c49b7231cc02da69)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Flachsp_l-Klosett_Nr_1034B-2.jpg&hash=c30da9f78f1fae9d9abb7662452b2f9c44f1f7c2)

Boy, this CAD construction was a two day job with a lot of trial and even more errors  ::).

Cheers,
Volker

Good heavens! -- Russ

Volker,

the two days have been very successful :)

Volker, you proved it once again "doesn't go there doesn't exist".

Wow!

Even knowing what the workbench is made of, it is hard to see it and not believe it is full size. The cabinet looks good and does its job concealing the motor. Helmut's coal scoop fits right in next to the stove and your CAD image shows there is more good stuff yet to come.

The building had advertising inscriptions on two opposite walls. This one is towards 'Maiplatz'. Alpina is a watch brand still existing today and the letters say something like 'Alpina - the key word for good watches. Selling point. Louis Lohmann. Optician.' and below, well, don't urge me to translate that.   

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715PKB_Maiplatz_10-41_Foto_AlMi_klein.jpg&hash=2b1034bfee435d514bce8beae61f628af5e2da10)
(Photo courtesy of Albert Middelmann 10/1941; W. D. Groote collection)


At the model the inscription will be slightly higher positioned. I wanted to include the sign for the hotel, which had been there before it was been replaced by the 'Optician' lettering. A rectified picture of the identic lettering at the opposite wall was scaled down in Illustrator (there's no good picture of the other wall available). The screenshot shows the original picture right hand, the rectified one lefthand and the final lettering on the building lefthand again.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Redraw2.jpg&hash=53f932137e75f33777331c1681e17ad6860829bd)


Those are sign painters' characters, which aren't available as fonts. So all letters had to be traced manually. Or digitally. Feel free to chose.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Redraw.JPG&hash=d7bfc17e0bd16c0b48369bd08171639adc75ec22)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Redraw3.JPG&hash=bcbff8b950c62cf9e6eb5d0991a57f4559077fc6)


There's an advertising technician round the corner where I had the artwork cut from self adhesive foil. Removing the 'positive' elements from the cut foil is a job the service provider usually does, but he was happy about my offering to do that myself after he had binned two plots. The foil usually serves to decorate cars and other even surfaces. It is no special stencil foil, but it works very well on that surface of wall paint and silicon carbide of the model.

The 'Alpina' cypher hat a red shadow; see today's Alpina emblem. For that I had a file with a slightly offset cypher, but identical square outline. There' s a self adhesive application paper to be fixed to the front side of the foil. Now the backside carrier paper can be removed. After sticking the foil in place the application paper can be removed: it is the upper one in the following picture, the carrier paper is seen below.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170088b.jpg&hash=97719b706e00f4b695bbaf3cf11cbe199b35cd58)


A front flattened brush serves to dab paint to the foil.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170090b.jpg&hash=6019e9f305d93591469c1d13b4eded48d8ef7d75)


When paint is dry ...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170091b.jpg&hash=c0bdab7365fdb551562b6a0bc7473a49481de549)


... the next foil without offset is placed.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170092b.jpg&hash=642cf98ef16777f972be256f59ee7f3828526b59)


Black color for the cyphers.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170093b.jpg&hash=291f5952770f9f55e482c6f0719f84666b981465)


Result without further treatment:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170095b.jpg&hash=9ef162971f840fe37ae632f9051ad537147edc5e)


Cheers,
Volker

Volker, I really appreciate that you took into account that the sign was hand lettered and therefore not a match for any font, so you duplicated the actual lettering instead of coming close with some font.
Your replication of it is very good. May I offer one small suggestion? Where you superimposed the black lettering on top of the red drop shadow, if you could join the corners of the shadow to the corners of the black letters as in my crude depiction below. I also extended the red on the top of the ball for the first stroke of the "A" and also on top of the dot of the "i". That would be how most signwriters would do the shadow. (Click image to enlarge.)

Bill, you're completely right and that's the way it is recognizable at the prototype pictures, too. I'll have to add that manually later on; it takes a steady hand. Indeed there's been a technical reason to do it the way i did. It's nearly impossible to consecutively place both the foils at exact same position and even a tenth offset would be very clearly visible when using those 'conjunctions'.

Volker, Yes, I understand completely what you said about being nearly impossible to align both foils to create the exact offset that you want. I once worked with a prototype of a very simple plotter that cut self adhesive vinyl film for signs and projects like you described. I think you have the steady hand to be able to paint in those 'conjunctions' on your sign. Perhaps a little masking tape on the outside of the connecting corners will help.

I'm surprised that such small lettering can be cut out of foil for use as a stencil. I didn't think that such fine details could be achieved that way. I'll have to look into this as it would be very useful for my models as well.

Quote from: Bill Gill on March 22, 2019, 11:10:07 AM
Volker, Yes, I understand completely what you said about being nearly impossible to align both foils to create the exact offset that you want. I once worked with a prototype of a very simple plotter that cut self adhesive vinyl film for signs and projects like you described. I think you have the steady hand to be able to paint in those 'conjunctions' on your sign. Perhaps a little masking tape on the outside of the connecting corners will help.

Bill, thanks again. I added the connecting corners and it looks much better now.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170098b.jpg&hash=182e25ad434e64bfe5f7ebe41e95ae614c685e46)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170100b.jpg&hash=a5bfd0c18b8b54a2b5f544a50f6259c16f04c569)


Opposite side with larger offset (mistake in the first foil, but it doesn't matter):

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170101b.jpg&hash=3b7e51625317a2a1ddde1393e9df865be61fac49)

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on March 22, 2019, 08:47:24 PM
I'm surprised that such small lettering can be cut out of foil for use as a stencil. I didn't think that such fine details could be achieved that way. I'll have to look into this as it would be very useful for my models as well.

I think the only limitation is the tiny pieces to remain on the carrier paper, for example within the 'e'-letter, which tend to come off when removing the positive parts. There's always a tiny stretch of length not being cut, which doesn't matter, if the parts are a little bit bigger. I wouldn't use that for a locomotive livery, but it works for those hand made signs. It's helpful to use a new blade in the cutting machine.
 
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170103b.jpg&hash=65e22d5221f02f75261cc18e8c1a77a98f774e6f)


There's a final weathering to come when the building is finished and some touchup of blemishes. It doesn't make sense at that point.

Cheers,
Volker

That turned out very nice !

I probably couldn't do as well with an inkjet printer! - Russ

Even in extreme close up it looks great!

hi Volker
the Alpina looks really good such a traditional looking sign.
all the best Kim.

Some new stuff - everything work in progress, predominantly cardboard aside of the printed parts.

A kitchen cabinet:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170223b.jpg&hash=37c1d4373c6aea20bdc1638a6fea2492dea1263e)


A toilet:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Flachsp_l-Klosett_Nr_1034B-1.jpg&hash=98742c6461daf59e8690b0a4c49b7231cc02da69)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170084b.jpg&hash=1955a4586ea2a585e5adb20dfda1e15aad313a64)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170150.JPG&hash=df54e1241c9f36d1e7fe586162bafc7a5eea29e5)


A showcase, completely cut by hand:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_1522.jpg&hash=e639fa2213cbe3aa7163b2670f5e9606e4b446de)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170079b.jpg&hash=7c2df96a8625b701704865c890df049e81439150)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170081b.jpg&hash=5b3f68e31402dbf20f168b5cc83b0ae18573004c)


Some shelfs, laser cut:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170206b.jpg&hash=79aa1bf261fac9d0afd4715c6970dc322263ff32)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170208b.jpg&hash=64a8c8e9a2ae5c0190acb39d923409eb38506c4b)


An old cooking stove, laser cut and edges sanded:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170217b.jpg&hash=f1d59f1aa949b057d0e203f6a6fca211bde1de02)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170233b.jpg&hash=4ee04dcfae65be4a03224cea88430f089ef3cf97)


The tableware:

My friend Uwe printed some 1-22.5 scale dishes from my files. We wanted to test a prototypical 0.2 mm wall thickness (old pottery). He gave me an unbelievable amount of cups ... the pic doesn't even show half of it ...


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170200b.jpg&hash=9774b4ca8ffcba00bce86bcefe63423bcc14912f)


Dishes mounted to removable sticky tape for spray painting.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170203b.jpg&hash=55a6b6ad005793c5f55c5a6fcbde359f69f76f79)


Obviously I forgot to do the dishes beforehand.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170230b.jpg&hash=e2c56640f40cdd23e90125ef63580f1a1a555b08)



Oh well, that's what it looked like before, at least stove and shelfs.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170189b.jpg&hash=51d48d010f82f35999a011cdce46c86c949f77e4)


About photography: setup for the first picture of this post.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170225b.jpg&hash=e142c5f99bd21c1a6c3bf98409a91ea4332ff5b3)


Cheers,
Volker

What a great batch of many interior details! How did you clean up and finish all those little cups and plates. They look just like 'institutional grade' glazed pottery.

Quote from: Bill Gill on April 26, 2019, 01:35:56 PM
How did you clean up and finish all those little cups and plates.

It's printed with an ANYCUBIC Photon straight on the base plate. There's no cleanup and finishing necessary, just cleaning in isopropyl alcohol.

HI Volker,

my wife just told me I absolutely would have to write to you. Because her mother had such a kitchen cupboard and she is very fascinated.

Also from me absolutely succeeded your work and with that you have once again put the bar a little higher for us.

Not bad, Volker. -- Russ

A picture of the cleaned objects:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F9033%2F4389IMG-20190427-WA0000.jpg&hash=95b74ad657167666fb8d72a451d22bd5769e4860)
Photo courtesy of Uwe Wettin

Beautiful detail work!!

Jerry

Great stuff! I'm amazed at how smooth the dishes are. I think that's the best quality 3D printing I've seen yet.

Quote from: Hydrostat on April 26, 2019, 02:14:28 PM

Quote from: Bill Gill on April 26, 2019, 01:35:56 PM
How did you clean up and finish all those little cups and plates.

It's printed with an ANYCUBIC Photon straight on the base plate. There's no cleanup and finishing necessary, just cleaning in isopropyl alcohol.

And the printer costs $ 500. (Yep, that is five hundred, not thousand!)

https://www.digitaltrends.com/3d-printer-reviews/anycubic-photon-review/

I am VERY tempted...

As I think I posted around April 1, a friend bought and is using a Formlabs 3 printer. I was very impressed with its output. Apparently the Anycubic printer has about the same resolution for a fraction of the price. If anybody has used the Photon to print anything else, or if Volker uses it again for a more complex part than a tea cup, please post photos. The review and its photos suggest a terrific little unit. -- Russ

I've been using the Anycubic Photon for the last few months. Unfortunately I don't have any close up pictures available but I can take them in a few days.

Below it's the only one I have at the moment, it's my current production, a portuguese H0 railcar, and all the details were printed with the photon. The green part was printed at Shapeways, everything else was printed with the Photon. There wasn't any post production apart from painting. (Sorry for hijacking the thread)

I'll post some pictures of other items the next days; it depends a lot on geometry which result one can expect.

Here we go:

This is going to be the toilet tank. All sides are inclined at some 1 or 2 degrees. The item is printed straight to the base plate in upright position, starting with it's feet. There are no support structures to be removed, but we have clearly visible printing lines.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170261b.jpg&hash=d7b46336d9366b3df620678549f60b839694bcb7)


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This toilet has been printed the same way: upright and straight to the base plate.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170264b.jpg&hash=4f5b30b1cd81f00c9c76401a6a02ba6c0f716d49)


Same file with a reasonable printing orientation: Nearly invisible printing lines, but supporrt structures, that need to be removed.

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Left hand the item 'straight from the base' and right hand the other example. Note the carves and especially the strange seam at the left toilet's inner edge and foot and the bore holes missing. The other print shows all details.

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What I'm trying to say is that those tools can't perform miracles. It doesn't make sense to have a surface with a lot of detail, but the surface itself doesn't look right at all: Cleaning it up means to loose detail. For the dishes it was necessary to have them printed straight to the base because they are thus brittle and it would be impossible to remove support structures. This way their bigger surfaces get very smooth. For the much bigger toilet this doesn't work at all. Even at bigger dishes like coffee pots the lines are visible, too. It will take another long time until there's a 3D printer to print objects 'as they are', i.e. without support structures and visible printing lines. Compare that with the development at customer printers years ago: We just have left 'wire printer quality' and start with 'ink jet quality' and consider what even a 50,- $ printer can do nowadays! Howsoever this is a huge step forward for the end customer market.

Cheers,
Volker

Volker, you have experience with at least two or three printers. How do parts from the Photon printer compare to those from other printers? Do the Photon's instructions tell you how to position parts to get the best results? Do you have any other words of wisdom? -- Russ

Quote from: finescalerr on May 02, 2019, 12:08:50 AM
Volker, you have experience with at least two or three printers. How do parts from the Photon printer compare to those from other printers? Do the Photon's instructions tell you how to position parts to get the best results? Do you have any other words of wisdom? -- Russ

I don't have own experience, it's all second hand, but I'll ask my friend Uwe, who owns the printer.

And now to something completely different. In our living community during studying we had an old wooden kitchen table with a somewhat corky surface. I wanted something like that for the model but unfortunately serendipity led me to a table with implemented sink. Well, that's it:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170290b.jpg&hash=fe669ddca5ad5f7cea7a8beff506a5ce9cdbcd56)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170289b.jpg&hash=a3036cd91ad1d082859e363a1095b05b0edc2610)


Tabletop with additional wooden edge:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170278b.jpg&hash=e729bae8277a4178a2254bf88ea166a9971f0c97)


I wanted to do the enamel bowls without 3D, just out of paper. A firecracker residue serves as jig.

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Small flakes of single handkerchief paper layers are glued to it with thinned Elmer's glue ...

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... and pushed to the surface with a brush.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170237b.jpg&hash=a8d2be7bf71ddd6369a58d733cd4d09da983c3fd)

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When dry the paper bowl can easily be removed from the plastic hemisphere.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170239b.jpg&hash=3582d467fe15f9c80d99a333fc481b33e0148511)


Cut out segments glued to the drawer:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170240b.jpg&hash=bc43e93953b974a85f000d5c962da1e2f8fd9043)

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The additional seams are made from paper, too, glueing a sheet with a tiny protrusion to the drawer and then cutting/sanding away the excess.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170256b.jpg&hash=634fce0a1bc57309717920b6b1a12267b45702a1)


That's it. Condition before painting:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170257b.jpg&hash=395975c0b7ed5de309a80a39a80851a1a47e50c7)

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Cheers,
Volker

It would take me a dozen attempts to come up with two "bowls" and I probably would ruin one when I tried to trim the edge. Or maybe I'd fail to produce even one. To say I am impressed would be an understatement. -- Russ

I've got a Photon and if my prints came out as coarse as that toilet cistern I'd be checking the  Z axis because that stepping should not occur.  The 'Z-axis issue' is a known thing with the earlier photons and can be fixed.
Maybe it would be more appropriate to begin a new thread for the Photon to avoid hijacking this one, and I am more than happy to give my impressions and experiences of owning one if anyone wants to know but in the meantime here are a couple of pics to show what it can do.
These are all straight off the plotter without any post cleanup apart from washing  with IPA and hardening  by plonking out in the sun for a half hour or so  - although the grey ones have had a quick coat of Tamiya grey sprayed on them to pick up the details.
Any slight jagginess on the prints should be compared with the background of the image because the photos themselves are quite pixel-y as can be seen by the yellow lines on the cutting mat.
The STL files themselves were obtained from the Scan the World project but I have begun creating my own ones using photogrammetry, again am happy to post examples etc if any one is interested.

Chris, please do start a new thread. Let's make it about 3-D printers in general so anyone with experience using the Photon, FormLabs, or other high resolution printers can offer comparisons, comments, and tips.

By the way, guys, Chris has been a lurker for several years and signed up specifically to offer insights into the Photon for our benefit.

Russ

Volker, great work on that table!

Quote from: finescalerr on May 02, 2019, 04:05:28 PM
It would take me a dozen attempts to come up with two "bowls" and I probably would ruin one when I tried to trim the edge. Or maybe I'd fail to produce even one. To say I am impressed would be an understatement. -- Russ

It's not that difficult: I drenched the bowls with CA from the back side after removing from the hemisphere. When dry, insert the bowls to the cut out holes and draw a pencil line at the back around the protruding parts. Then cut some 1 or 2 mm a bit above with a nail scissor, glue to place with PVA and then sand down the protruding edge to the desired height. The result isn't as clean as a metal part (at least if I do it), but it works fairly well.

Quote from: Chris J on May 02, 2019, 05:24:09 PM
I've got a Photon and if my prints came out as coarse as that toilet cistern I'd be checking the  Z axis because that stepping should not occur.  The 'Z-axis issue' is a known thing with the earlier photons and can be fixed.
Maybe it would be more appropriate to begin a new thread for the Photon to avoid hijacking this one, and I am more than happy to give my impressions and experiences of owning one if anyone wants to know but in the meantime here are a couple of pics to show what it can do.
These are all straight off the plotter without any post cleanup apart from washing  with IPA and hardening  by plonking out in the sun for a half hour or so  - although the grey ones have had a quick coat of Tamiya grey sprayed on them to pick up the details.
Any slight jagginess on the prints should be compared with the background of the image because the photos themselves are quite pixel-y as can be seen by the yellow lines on the cutting mat.
The STL files themselves were obtained from the Scan the World project but I have begun creating my own ones using photogrammetry, again am happy to post examples etc if any one is interested.

Chris,

would you mind to post a closeup of the structure's surface to have a direct comparison with the toilet surface?

Cheers,
Volker

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on May 02, 2019, 10:45:58 PM
Volker, great work on that table!

Thanks, Ray, the tabletop is HDF 1.5mm and a strip of veneer glued around it, then drenched with CA and sanded. I didn't have the same veneer as the wood for the legs so I painted all wooden parts afterwards for an unifying look. Tabletop was finally treated with some brown shoe polish.

Volker and Chris, Thanks for this thread. Although a 3D printer is not remotely in my future, I'm a member of the NEB&W (which has found a new location! It sounds like moving into it will be delayed awhile). The club is interested in getting a 3D printer and the Photon has looked most interesting so far. Learning more about its pluses and minuses is helpful.

Volker, Your method for making the sinks was simple and effective. Did their interior surface get any addition coatings or sanding to smooth them after removing them from the jig?

Quote from: Bill Gill on May 03, 2019, 04:06:08 AM
Volker, Your method for making the sinks was simple and effective. Did their interior surface get any addition coatings or sanding to smooth them after removing them from the jig?

No, they were completely smooth aside of one "crack" where I put several layers of paper at one time and didn't notice there was a wrinkle. Using another, bigger hemisphere one could even have the outer surface smooth. I didn't take care because it's not visible later on.

So, you used a technique quite like the way fiberglass boats are built to make the wash bowls?  Tissue paper and wood glue instead of fiber mats and resin.  VERY SMART.  Snipping the tissue as you shape it over the form would remove many of the problems with folds in the tissue in the final model. 

I wonder where this technique can led to?

Quote from: Lawton Maner on May 03, 2019, 08:28:11 AMSnipping the tissue as you shape it over the form would remove many of the problems with folds in the tissue in the final model.

Especially for the very first layer this is quite a good idea for sure.

[/quote]

Chris,

would you mind to post a closeup of the structure's surface to have a direct comparison with the toilet surface?

Cheers,
Volker
[/quote]

Hi Volker, I'll try to get some pics over the next couple of days

Regards

Chris J

Some progress at the kitchen:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170293b.jpg&hash=2814c2969c0a333ab1bc5b4677cc960b805264db)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170295b.jpg&hash=993054a4537e3466d4e1c2be55789abdfa15c1fe)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170298b.jpg&hash=5cc7948fb41566b85a9c624d20bcb8f94bdee569)



Cheers
Volker

That's a nice kitchen. I like all the components and details, especially the top of the table. The wear on it looks perfect.

Nice composition.  The layout makes for a useful work space.  I am waiting for you to add the aroma of baking bread to the diorama ;D ;D.

More 3-D prints or did you build up the kitchen appliances from something else? Either way everything seems quite adequate. -- Russ

Wow!!! 

Thanks Bill, Lawton, Russ and Ray,

the smell of baking bread ... that's something. Will be difficult, to keep it in the kitchen area  ;D

Quote from: finescalerr on May 17, 2019, 10:43:27 AM
More 3-D prints or did you build up the kitchen appliances from something else? Either way everything seems quite adequate. -- Russ

The pots (?) with the wooden covers are 3D-printed, but making them on a lathe would habe lead to better results. The signs are printed to cigarette paper ans 'glued' to the prints with clear matte lacquer. Decals would have worked for sure but it is a bit expensive for just one small item.

The tiles mirror is very fine grey lines printed to silk matte photo glossy paper, back drenched with CA, which makes it irregularly translucent, and then glued to some white cardstock with PVA. Frame is tinned brass angle section and the dots are tinned brass nails. At the oven handles, pipe elbow and sleeves are printed. Everything else is low tech.

Cheers,
Volker

The kitchen is nearly done aside of some items for the shelves. There are two independent light sources.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170304b.jpg&hash=e1adc0477644e9b60bb498e9ba3b806e007a1323)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170310b.jpg&hash=a02fc5f85b90364d3de141139348b31a8b505907)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170311b.jpg&hash=85852900c94d09a1f4f9aa8750e2e3776508643a)


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Cheers,
Volker

Adequately superb. -- Russ

Hello Volker,

please don't forget the oven sheet, because so falling embers would fall on the wooden floor, that was even then already regulation. There is also still a lack of fuel for heating the stove. This was now metered at an extremely high level, which would underline the already existing perfection.

Very effective lighting. I like the conduit on the wall and ceiling.

Holy cow! Once again you've amazed me! Very fine work. I especially like the electrical conduits on the wall and ceiling.

Added some spare items to one small shopwindow. Indeed this optician had dishes, radios, vases and so on on offer. I first had the window unlighted, but didn't like that at all.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170327b.jpg&hash=f52e5142c6952701aa7ef96c9a4b8cc81d4f7d18)


Some 0.8 and 1.5 mm tubing, some angle section, a file an some 0.8 mm diameter bulbs led to this:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170323b.jpg&hash=227959f53a39c70b18a69bdd3983384ddc72ccf9)

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The metal parts are one pole, a 0.15 mm enameled wire soldered to the bulb and passing through the tubing is the other one. A lathe would have been somewhat helpful to get cleaner results and to thin the wall of the lamp shade, but a Dremel suffices.


This is how the wiring is hidden: small slots in the walls' top side.

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Cheers,
Volker

The window lighting looks fantastic!

Good decision to light the window. The rest of the work isn't bad, either. -- Russ

The Lohmann building had a small front (or back?) yard before the annex had been erected. There was a riveted fence running around it. The picture from in between 1904 und 1910 shows it.

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Wolf Dietrich Groote collection

The annex destroyed some parts of the fence. The yard is made from milled and hand formed Forex (Sintra). The wall seems to have been strengthened after 1903, when there was a derailment on the bridge. There's a picture in the  Plettenberg Kleinbahn book (https://shop.vgbahn.info/vgbahn/shop/plettenberger+kleinbahn-_4619.html) (yes, that's covered advertising and I'm more than related to the guy, who did the book layout).

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Frithjof milled the nickel silver and brass parts and a soldering gauge. It didn't work to press the rivets because the small strips changed length uncontrollable. So I decided to solder sprigs into bored holes and round them afterwards.


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This works best at 100-150 rpm.

The fence was glued to bore holes in the Forex, which had to be spackled afterwards. The Forex plates got some plaster, too.


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A first washing shows where to add more or varied texture. I'll do that, when the parts can be glued to the building, which may take some more of my and your precious time.


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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170362b.jpg&hash=6095006e15bda72242baf790c20b4a6e7a7a28c2)


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Cheers,
Volker

More impressive work, Volker. The fence is very nice and the texture and color of the concrete is just right.

great fence Volker..
cheers

The wall and fence look great, and the rivet detail is fantastic!

Good heavens! Very adequate! -- Russ

The lighting in the window and the fence both work so well. Very nice work indeed.

Thanks, guys.

I added the second shopwindow's interior. This will have no own light.

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Right behind is the optician's workshop.

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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170420b.jpg&hash=6ff61ae5e8c3f1620714208fd03afbc7bfbfc6e7)


This overview isn't possible later on, only the glimpse over the shopwindow separation.

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Plumbing is made from brass wire and tubes. I tinned it and then had it for some 20 Minutes in water with citric acid which gives that lead tone to the tin.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170405b.jpg&hash=d514e6eb72e1037bd155ecc503264a4afde1a71c)

Cheers,
Volker

More good stuff. Glad you took photos now from angles that won't be visible later so we can see all the terrific details.

Stunning!

Doesn't it bother you to build something to such a high degree of excellence and then leave it only partly visible? Is there no way to allow access later? -- Russ

Quote from: finescalerr on July 16, 2019, 11:50:55 PM
Doesn't it bother you to build something to such a high degree of excellence and then leave it only partly visible? Is there no way to allow access later? -- Russ

I think I understand. It isn't the showing off but the building.

Bill H.

Bill G., Ray, Russ, Bill H. thanks.

Quote from: finescalerr on July 16, 2019, 11:50:55 PM
Doesn't it bother you to build something to such a high degree of excellence and then leave it only partly visible? Is there no way to allow access later? -- Russ

Perception, cognition to me is a more and more interesting aspect in modeling. How realistic is a model one can take in his hands and look at from all sides? What got this to do with perception of the prototype? Which indiscreet views do we have in strangers' private rooms (as long as they don't want us to have them? I'm afraid this is getting more and more weird, but concerning cognition it seems interesting to me to limit access to rooms or items whose existence is known to the beholders. Well, maybe it's just my inability to delimit a topic. Lacking any interior picture serendipity and online investigations of comparable situations leads to what I think might have been there. What bothers me is the sheer amount of items to be built for the big shop windows and showroom. But whenever I thought something couldn't be done this was a fallacy. Time is my friend. Still.

Quote from: 5thwheel on July 17, 2019, 11:49:41 AM
I think I understand. It isn't the showing off but the building.
Bill H.

In other words.

Cheers,
Volker

I'm a perfectionist. So when somebody does something terrific, I want everybody to be able to examine every bit of it. Sorry if somehow that conflicts with "art" but it is nonetheless the ultimate compliment. -- Russ

And now to something completely different with a quote from the 1985 "Runaway train" movie:

"I don't care about engines. I don't wanna loose the bridge!"

Phew, sometimes a good transition is hard to find. It's been more than 5 years since posting those pictures (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2257.msg48288#msg48288) of the first parts for the bridge.


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Some four weeks ago I got a shipment from Frithjof with the rest of all milled parts. It was fun to do some 'heavy metal' after all the housework (pun intended). One reason for that long hiatus was not knowing how to do all the rivets. We started successful attempts with pressing in different material thicknesses from 0.5, 0.8 and 1 mm, but this wouldn't work with the angle sections running alongside the bridge for some reasons: The idea was to mill grooved strips, press rivets and then kink them into angle sections on the leaf break, but this doesn't work without damaging the pressed rivets. Using brass rivets wasn't an option according to the sheer amount, too. Aside of the costs this would have meant to insert two milled rivets into each bore hole because they're all visible from both sides - to the risk of having them popping out when soldering the parts. In the end I decided for a simple, but a bit labor-intensive solution. 


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And this is what it looks like at the moment. Length is nearly 75 cm.


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Next step is sandblasting, burnishing and painting it.


Cheers,
Volker

Very impressive!

I'm sure that took almost no time, effort, skill, or artistry to create. So why has it been so long since your last post? -- Russ

I'm at a loss to come up with what to say. What an impressive build!
That's a lot of rivets and they look good.

Quote from: finescalerr on September 08, 2019, 01:29:33 AM
I'm sure that took almost no time, effort, skill, or artistry to create. So why has it been so long since your last post? -- Russ

Well, I took my time to prepare the reading matter for our esteemed wordless readership, trying to cater their every whim.

To be honest: my motivation to write comprehensive texts is not so very big due to the fact it developed more and more to a one way communication with a lot of readers and very few interaction and I don't really feel like presenting all the stuff for free to silent consumers. I have no need for self presentation, I'd rather have discussion and exchange of ideas and the less it becomes, the smaller my motivation gets.

Here we go:

I first planned to have those pressed rivets on folded angle section, as mentioned before. This meant to have separate vertical strips of same material thickness, carrying the short vertical angle sections at the bridge's sides. Since I decided to use another method Frithjof came up with the idea to mill the lateral parts as some kinds o ladders, which means a much less number of parts and assembling work. The following picture should explain how the longitudinal 'angle section' gets together in the end.


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All inner edges of those 'ladders' have a radius remaining from the mill's cutter diameter:


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This needed to be filed away. The later 'angle section's' visible outer edge should have a slight radius as prototypical angle section does. Since they are made from nickle silver it was hard to sand them down. The following picture is from this first attempt, but it gives an idea of what I wanted. Later on I used a file swaying it the 'wrong' direction and then sandpaper to smooth the edges a bit more.


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All bore holes got the final rivet heads' diameter of 1.5 mm. Small segments of 1.5 mm brass rod are going to serve as rivet imitations. It takes some force to press them to position. This is very helpful for the later steps because it brings some stability and keeps the rods in position without need of clamps. Needing some twothousand rods Frithjof made a fenced jig for his mechanical jar to cut 5 rods at one time.


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1.4 mm stainless steel screws helped to position all parts to be soldered as a 'sandwich' later on.


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Cheers,
Volker

How do you round off the rivet heads?

Bill

One reason we have "wordless" readers is that not everyone qualifies to post a message here. -- Russ

That is phenomenal!!!  Better than the real thing - I can barely imagine the amount of work that has gone into it.  The forum is definitely the place for inspiration

Les 

     The round rivet heads are the easy if not a terribly boring part of the job.  Once everything is soldered and cleaned there is a line of Swiss milling bits used by jewelers (and truly anal modelers myself included) which fit a Fordom or Dremel which will mill the dome shape for you, one rivet at a time.  A project like this will require several weeks of quiet rest in a sanatorium beside a lake in the country once completed. 
     A bit of planning must go into the assembly so that once everything is soldered you can still get to both ends of the rivet.  some rivets need to have one end finished prior to pressing into place so a spacer block needs to be prepared to see to it the rivet protrudes just so on the blind side.
     If need be the project can be broken down into smaller bites and assembled in stages starting with hard silver solder.  The rivets can be addressed with micro-bits of soldering paste and torch soldered on mass once ready.  Each sub assembly can then be added to others with lower temp silver solders working down the ladder to the specialty solders sold by Carr's in England.
    Applying the paste solder with a syringe means less is used and clean-up is easier.  Here in the US a drain cleaner called "Liquid Fire" which is an 18 molar sulfuric acid makes a cheap and available pickling solution.
    Just my way of doing it and by the end of this project I expect to learn others.

Quote from: Lawton Maner on September 09, 2019, 01:37:28 PM
     The round rivet heads are the easy if not a terribly boring part of the job.  Once everything is soldered and cleaned there is a line of Swiss milling bits used by jewelers (and truly anal modelers myself included) which fit a Fordom or Dremel which will mill the dome shape for you, one rivet at a time.  A project like this will require several weeks of quiet rest in a sanatorium beside a lake in the country once completed. 
     A bit of planning must go into the assembly so that once everything is soldered you can still get to both ends of the rivet.  some rivets need to have one end finished prior to pressing into place so a spacer block needs to be prepared to see to it the rivet protrudes just so on the blind side.
     If need be the project can be broken down into smaller bites and assembled in stages starting with hard silver solder.  The rivets can be addressed with micro-bits of soldering paste and torch soldered on mass once ready.  Each sub assembly can then be added to others with lower temp silver solders working down the ladder to the specialty solders sold by Carr's in England.
    Applying the paste solder with a syringe means less is used and clean-up is easier.  Here in the US a drain cleaner called "Liquid Fire" which is an 18 molar sulfuric acid makes a cheap and available pickling solution.
Just my way of doing it and by the end of this project I expect to learn others.

Cup burs? Have a set of 12 from Rio Grande in USA.  Use them a lot but have problem with the bur bottoming out and leaving a mark on the base. I use a little hand held rotary tool like a Dremel.  Perhaps it I set up my little mill I can better control the depth but yes it is boring to do several dozen rivets at a setting. I am so amazed at this work shown on this thread. Bill Hudson

After studying the photos carefully all day, I think I found one rivet with a machining mark at its base! -- ssuR

Quote from: 5thwheel on September 08, 2019, 08:37:08 PM
How do you round off the rivet heads?
Bill

Bill,
please see below.

Quote from: finescalerr on September 09, 2019, 01:15:23 AM
One reason we have "wordless" readers is that not everyone qualifies to post a message here. -- Russ

Russ,
you're a mensch.

Quote from: Les Tindall on September 09, 2019, 12:51:22 PM
That is phenomenal!!!  Better than the real thing - I can barely imagine the amount of work that has gone into it.  The forum is definitely the place for inspiration
Les 

Les,
it was less than I was afraid of for years.

Quote from: Lawton Maner on September 09, 2019, 01:37:28 PM
     The round rivet heads are the easy if not a terribly boring part of the job.  Once everything is soldered and cleaned there is a line of Swiss milling bits used by jewelers (and truly anal modelers myself included) which fit a Fordom or Dremel which will mill the dome shape for you, one rivet at a time.  A project like this will require several weeks of quiet rest in a sanatorium beside a lake in the country once completed. 
     A bit of planning must go into the assembly so that once everything is soldered you can still get to both ends of the rivet.  some rivets need to have one end finished prior to pressing into place so a spacer block needs to be prepared to see to it the rivet protrudes just so on the blind side.
     If need be the project can be broken down into smaller bites and assembled in stages starting with hard silver solder.  The rivets can be addressed with micro-bits of soldering paste and torch soldered on mass once ready.  Each sub assembly can then be added to others with lower temp silver solders working down the ladder to the specialty solders sold by Carr's in England.
    Applying the paste solder with a syringe means less is used and clean-up is easier.  Here in the US a drain cleaner called "Liquid Fire" which is an 18 molar sulfuric acid makes a cheap and available pickling solution.
    Just my way of doing it and by the end of this project I expect to learn others.

Lawton,
unfortunately I'm lacking a sanatorium as well as a lake. It took four weeks to build the bridge, but rounding the rivets (some 2.500) didn't take much more time than 5 or 6 hours. The annoying part was pressing the rods into the holes. I soldered all parts, no brazing involved. I took pictures of all steps and I'm going to show them bit by bit. It's funny, that doing iterative work is often associated with mental health problems. Indeed it's contemplative.

Quote from: 5thwheel on September 09, 2019, 07:05:57 PM
Cup burs? Have a set of 12 from Rio Grande in USA.  Use them a lot but have problem with the bur bottoming out and leaving a mark on the base. I use a little hand held rotary tool like a Dremel.  Perhaps it I set up my little mill I can better control the depth but yes it is boring to do several dozen rivets at a setting. I am so amazed at this work shown on this thread. Bill Hudson

Bill,
please see below. I think the twin cut tools are the best, much better than rasping ones. Which kind of tool do you use?

Quote from: finescalerr on September 09, 2019, 08:36:39 PM
After studying the photos carefully all day, I think I found one rivet with a machining mark at its base! -- ssuR

Nitpicker.

This is the soldering set for the bridge's sides. I didn't have enough screws for the whole bridge and so the rear part isn't equipped with the brass rods. Aluminum angle section protects the brass and nickel silver parts in the vise. The protruding 0.8 mm nickelsilver strip tended to bend a bit away. A tweezer clamps it to the 1 mm brass plate.


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The soldering fluid (Griffon S-39) creeps in between the screwed/clamped parts by capillary action. No need to get dirty fingers mounting wetted parts.


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0.5 mm solder sections positioned on the upper edges at front and back; the sections at the six particular rods are much too big; a 2mm section for each rod is enough. Note the 0.8 mm aluminum strip between the brass angle sections. They are going to house another brass part of 0.8 mm and I didn't want to get into difficulties with a to small gap later on. If you watch careful you can see some embossed rivets at those angle sections, which I thought were not able to be done the way I did the other ones. Frithjof kindly pressed them after milling and annealing the parts.


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Soldering was done with a flambé torch.


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The stainless steel screws don't accept solder and are easy to remove and replace with brass rods, which again were soldered with the torch.


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When the bridge's vertical lateral parts were done, next came the strips forming the longitudinal angle's other branch including a riveted reinforcement plate from 1 mm brass and a connecting Angle section from 0.8 mm nickle silver.


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Soldering set for those parts.


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Cutting down the rods with a 0.8 mm jig; I then found out that this is an unnecessary step to prepare the rivets' rounding. It takes much more time than cutting them down with the rounding tool. I bought some 10 of them, expecting a lot of wear. Completely unnecessary, unless you don't brake the cutting edge by negligence as I did at one of the last rivets.


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Those parts needed to have the rivets rounded before soldering them to the vertical parts because they wouldn't be accessable later on.


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And yes, I used a twin cut jeweler's tool at the cheapo drill, guiding the part with my hands to the fixed drill. It needs to run very slowly, maybe some 100-200 rpm. This gives control to cutting. It's important to stop as sson as the tool's edge touches the ground. I don't mind of  marks; on one hand you'd have to press very tight and on the other hand I've seen marks of riveting tools at prototypes, too.


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Next post is about mounting the prepared parts.

Cheers,
Volker

Volker:

The sanitarium is where your significant other sends you after you finish the project.  Nice men in white coats will see to it that you will not get to excited during your stay.

I prefer to start with hard silver solder and work my way down because working in 1:48 scale projects is easier if I break them into sub-assemblies and I despise cleaning excess solder from things prior to painting.

I use the 0.9 mm cup drill most often as it represents a 1.5" rivet head which was common on most of the equipment built by the East Broad Top RR.

Some times, if I am doing just a dozen or so rivets, I use a pin vise to round them.    

Follow the link to the bits:https://www.riogrande.com/product/dentsply-maillefer-cup-burs/342368gp

Volker, thanks for the information on the twin cut tools.  My burrs are as you call them rasping ones. I will have t find a set to add to my tools.

Bill

Bill:

I am a satisfied customer with no ties to Rio Grande Jewelry and find them a great toy store for metal working. 

Sit down with a beverage of your choice and a bib to keep your shirt dry and window shop their site.  I believe you will be able to fill your entire Christmas and birthday wish list.

Quote from: Lawton Maner on September 10, 2019, 02:51:48 PM
Volker:

The sanitarium is where your significant other sends you after you finish the project.  Nice men in white coats will see to it that you will not get to excited during your stay.

I prefer to start with hard silver solder and work my way down because working in 1:48 scale projects is easier if I break them into sub-assemblies and I despise cleaning excess solder from things prior to painting.

I use the 0.9 mm cup drill most often as it represents a 1.5" rivet head which was common on most of the equipment built by the East Broad Top RR.

Some times, if I am doing just a dozen or so rivets, I use a pin vise to round them.   

Follow the link to the bits:https://www.riogrande.com/product/dentsply-maillefer-cup-burs/342368gp

Lawton,
the rivet rods are the hard kind of brass. Brazing would soften them and according to the amount of rivets I preferred to keep them as they were. The tool's cuts work very well with the hard material. Another reason for soldering is the lower energy/temperature needed. No need to fix things to prevend warping when getting soft by heating.

Quote from: 5thwheel on September 10, 2019, 10:13:44 PM
Volker, thanks for the information on the twin cut tools.  My burrs are as you call them rasping ones. I will have t find a set to add to my tools.

Bill

Bill,
those are the twin cut burrs: https://www.bijoutil.ch/en/watchmaker/tools-machines/burs/3613/bur-concave-cupcut-1.60-mm (https://www.bijoutil.ch/en/watchmaker/tools-machines/burs/3613/bur-concave-cupcut-1.60-mm)

Cheers,
Volker

Volker:

I have to remember you are working much larger then I am and with flat stock.  I've made a couple of car frames and use a micro torch which heats the spot, usually around 1/2 cm square or smaller, very fast.  I'll have to adopt new techniques if I take on a bridge.  Having worked with silver in the past, I am almost anal when it comes to solder usage.  Probably nothing but Carr's solders on flat stock.

Bill:

Thanks for the note.  More people need to know about Rio Grande.

WLM3

Quote from: Lawton Maner on September 11, 2019, 09:02:16 AMI have to remember you are working much larger then I am and with flat stock.  I've made a couple of car frames and use a micro torch which heats the spot, usually around 1/2 cm square or smaller, very fast.  I'll have to adopt new techniques if I take on a bridge.  Having worked with silver in the past, I am almost anal when it comes to solder usage.  Probably nothing but Carr's solders on flat stock.

For sure those oxygen/acetylene micro torches are the best one can have, but for that piece of scrap metal a flambé torch had to be sufficient :D.

I started soldering both the preassembled parts in a piece of aluminum angle section. At one end of the bridge are no rivets in the longitudinal angle section's top side. So I was able to place that area flat to the aluminum without pushing rivets out during soldering.


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This didn't work for the inner parts: I fixed those areas in the vise and soldered each segment bit by bit. Aluminum tubing helps to clamp within the gaps between the already rounded rivets and at at the same time reduces heat flux to the vise, but: After a few steps of soldering I noticed the aluminum tubing getting flattened and so changed to spring steel rods, which don't accept solder either. There's been no single rod popping or sliding out during the soldering process.


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Next step was rounding all the rivets at the vertical surfaces, producing some chippings.


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Mounting the opposite longitudinal parts followed the same principle, now using spring steel rods for rivet protection at the opposite side, too. Soldering now had to be done with all the rivets already rounded.


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Together with the lower longitudinal part dogs were soldered to the 0.8 mm gaps I mentioned in the last post. Soldering needs to be done from both sides to have control of the amount of solder needed to shape the angle section's inner radius. The process wasn't finished, when I took the following picture. It still shows a gap at the very front of the longitudinal angle section.


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Cheers,
Volker

Volker:

Do you know if your tool vendor ships to the US?

I'll ask tomorrow.

At a risk of going too far off topic-  I and Rio Grande go way back in time. The closest thing they have to a twin cutter is their C-4 burr.

Thanks, Bill

Wow, very interesting stuff! Thanks for the step-by-step, it's greatly appreciated.

Quote from: Lawton Maner on September 11, 2019, 10:34:54 AM
Do you know if your tool vendor ships to the US?

Lawton,
I don't buy my stock at the swiss vendor I linked to, but asked my German vendor: Yes, they do. They told me they have a lot of expats in the States as customers. Unfortunately their website and catalogue isn't available in English, but they speak english. Take a look at page 28 of the PDF, second item: https://www.gebr-ott-gmbh.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/gebr-ott-katalog112017-verl.pdf (https://www.gebr-ott-gmbh.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/gebr-ott-katalog112017-verl.pdf).
Just write an email with complete address and contact to info@gebr-ott-gmbh.de.

But there's a vendor of that exactly 'Busch' brand in the US, too: https://www.gesswein.com/p-10695-busch-burs-clean-cut-cup-fig-411ccc.aspx (https://www.gesswein.com/p-10695-busch-burs-clean-cut-cup-fig-411ccc.aspx)

Quote from: 5thwheel on September 11, 2019, 12:08:42 PM
At a risk of going too far off topic-  I and Rio Grande go way back in time. The closest thing they have to a twin cutter is their C-4 burr.
Thanks, Bill

Bill,
when I bought the burs I asked which ones they'd suggest. They have the C-4 ones in stock, too. But they told me, that the twin cuts are bought most frequent by the jewellers and so on and that they seem to work best.

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on September 11, 2019, 09:41:36 PM
Wow, very interesting stuff! Thanks for the step-by-step, it's greatly appreciated.

Ray,
you're welcome.

The level of international cooperation on this site is amazing.  Sadly the rest of the world doesn't work this well.

Quote from: Lawton Maner on September 12, 2019, 08:16:25 AM
The level of international cooperation on this site is amazing.  Sadly the rest of the world doesn't work this well.

That's all because we're guests of Russ here and we don't have politicians who think they represent us.

... And if those of us on this forum ran the world, instead of the pigs who always seem to end up in control, it would be a vastly better place to live. At least we still have this tiny corner where we can share our models and techniques. -- Russ

Thanks for the link to buy the burrs! I just ordered a set.

Connecting frame and shears was a task - by the way: I'd be happy to be corrected concerning those terms, if there's something wrong. I tried to do those parts with the resistance soldering unit, but there's a huge heat flow which lets the the unit go to the limits of it's capacity and so changed to the flambé torch again. The neighbouring solder joints had to be cooled with wet paper towels wrapped around them.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170499_als_Smart-Objekt-1.jpg&hash=c7e701c2a62a86824d081d95573a3d029ecc277b)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170501_als_Smart-Objekt-1.jpg&hash=c004b5604cb74b98568bdb3e051aac6562c23d49)


At both ends additional 0.5 mm nickle silver rivet plates had to be soldered into some rather difficultly accessable sections. The RSU worked for that.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170502_als_Smart-Objekt-1.jpg&hash=3a3a36ea25604ed16b82f9851c3a290f5a4f5c43)


I was happy when frame and shears were connected without damage or alteration to the prepared parts, but now it would manifest if the parts were exactly enough to add the prepared connecting angle sections and cross beams. The dogs mentioned before had no bore holes, because the rivet heads would not be accessable with the bur (I learned a new word  ;D) later on. The connecting angle sections had to be equipped with 'rivets' before installing them. The single one would protrude through the prepared hole in the connecting plates and the pair being sanded down to back surface to touch the dogs.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170509_als_Smart-Objekt-1.jpg&hash=526dbf0d858c3bf949976ebe418fbb4edaac06ec)


This was where some inaccuracy occured: the dogs weren't exactly rectangular, which made it difficult to place the angle sections' rivets to the prepared holes and to keep them positioned for soldering. Some brass and final aluminum pieces clamped them in place. Again the RSU worked for that and when solder got to flow, everything plopped into right position.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170514_als_Smart-Objekt-1.jpg&hash=e51053b0cd99eb2250ef0f6e2671e57994c94486)


Last step was adding the cross beams. For them I used prerounded rods, protruding a rivet heighth on the not accesaable side. Last step was to cut and round those rods on the bridge's underneath. This is when I broke the bur.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170521_als_Smart-Objekt-1.jpg&hash=46ab421222729102d542aefc92cb3cd2bb86ae4e)


Next week an acquaintance from Buntbahn is going to have a look at the bridge to check if he may sand blast it at his company. Difficulty will be to remove excess solder at some rivets, but keeping the solder fillet alongside the longitudinal angle sections.

Unfortunately there are no color pics of the bridge at all and I have to puzzle over its color. In Germany usually you have a darker grey tone of micaecious iron oxide, a brighter grey or reseda green. Who knows.

Quote from: Lawton Maner on September 12, 2019, 08:16:25 AM
The level of international cooperation on this site is amazing.  Sadly the rest of the world doesn't work this well.

Imagine a world where no one even needs to determine that.

Cheers,
Volker

I love how this forum will obsess over how to shape a fake rivet for days or the correct pattern of rust on the finished piece because it allows us to escape from the BS that the rest o the world festers over.

Volker, Have you given thought to pre assembling and holding everything together with SS screws, bolts and aluminum clamps then oven soldering the wholdassembly?  I have used this method before with some success.

Bill

Quote from: 5thwheel on September 13, 2019, 08:42:10 AM
Volker, Have you given thought to pre assembling and holding everything together with SS screws, bolts and aluminum clamps then oven soldering the wholdassembly?  I have used this method before with some success.

Bill

Bill,

yes, but keep in mind that I had to  round the rivets after soldering and there are a lot of areas not accessable any more.

Volker

Meanwhile the bridge was sand blasted by a pre name twin modeler from Buntbahn forum:


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170538_b.jpg&hash=94fa9804082239de236c1bedd218179aa6f5eb63)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170539_b.jpg&hash=8b2e4ba1e1992ed60c2e90e5fc8b5da12d691193)


And I finished the kitchen interior. Please keep in mind that the only 'access' later on is going to be the kitchen window.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5533_als_Smart-Objekt-1.jpg&hash=17abe6dda907d3e241ea43a5d7472409a1ffb645)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5534_als_Smart-Objekt-1.jpg&hash=62f79148a9795041901226636cd08f4e938fd641)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5537_als_Smart-Objekt-1.jpg&hash=4ea8b8aea683e4a5468fa61d6684e6a3a752a5cc)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5541_als_Smart-Objekt-1.jpg&hash=071512d13fa14ab25aa7828e245a5b1dadeb63f6)


Some boiling water.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_5542_als_Smart-Objekt-1.jpg&hash=d973a47446789bbb6b70e9fd3055bf96320f6fe1)


Cheers,
Volker

The bridge looks perfect. On the other hand, if you really glue down all access to the kitchen except the window I must make you stand in the corner for a month. Please devise a way to avoid that. -- Russ

Quote from: finescalerr on September 21, 2019, 12:09:53 AM
The bridge looks perfect. On the other hand, if you really glue down all access to the kitchen except the window I must make you stand in the corner for a month. Please devise a way to avoid that. -- Russ

Russ,

showing those pictures at your highly considered forum is my way to avoid that.


Some pictures of the burnished bridge.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170540_als_Smart-Objekt-1.jpg&hash=f9910509e73f6182fcb259b145be652fdda61027)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170541_als_Smart-Objekt-1.jpg&hash=fb571e70996580129abfe96cde29c20e13438ae5)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170542_als_Smart-Objekt-1.jpg&hash=1f7a3e4e3f5be8c9aeb89a15a7ba3067110549e8)


I love some of the results (above), but it doesn't work well at all areas (below), depending on a lot of factors and so there's color to come.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170543_als_Smart-Objekt-1.jpg&hash=7d64d81c08a4a2282843609b3f4ef57364636034)


Cheers,
Volker, preparing for a long hiatus in the corner.

Volker, The kitchen details are terrific. Perhaps you can devise a miniature fiber optic "snake" lens for you camera to avoid bannishment to the corner. The bridge is magnificient. What was there about some of the burnishing that you were not satisfied with?

Volker:
I have used hand engraving cutters to remove excess solder from brass or silver work for years.  With the great variety of cutters available almost any situation which arises can be addressed.  You might be able to find one which will shape the fillets on the inside corners of pieces which are to represent castings as well.

A 90 degree cutter can be used to open a fold line in a brass piece when you need to bend it to a tight corner.

The kitchen detail is mind-boggling!

Hi Volker I really like the floor in the kitchen. The wear and the greyness in the centre each board show that the wood has warped upwards, been worn down from use, and been mopped. It tells the story of the kitchen without rubbing your nose in it. Beautiful work.
Narayan

Volker:
Where is the dog's bowl.  It needs to be somewhere that it is difficult to trip over on a cloth pad to keep it from sliding when the dog eats.

Here (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2257.msg44823#msg44823) was a somewhat prototypical switch topic in this thread - and how to get a working underfloor switching device, but I thought it should be possible to get that prototypical, too.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_2455_b.jpg&hash=df9d4ba701a35b24befced9bd45eb74a70dc382f)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715DB9920A8-B4A6-4569-9A6B-14FA47B74EDE_jpeg_b.jpg&hash=1e442fc89a6cf8dc424db6693c0d2aead64164ad)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_2450_b.jpg&hash=584b5089d5877b5da4c24873774c4b54bd90714b)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715IMG_2453_b.jpg&hash=ea0364dfa63604e2ff5838eb679473e17097e6ec)


Except for the surrounding cast iron body, which was Nylon printed, all parts are brass castings, connected/soldered with steel rods to get them working.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1180031_b.jpg&hash=2f6144f29a4bcae768ab012b697e16d030a4459d)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1180034_b.jpg&hash=27d0823d259ff3652e4be0a7b04b5fd838aa9342)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1180037_b.jpg&hash=23e8ed8a55dfad92426499a4113ead4048fe7daa)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1180042_b.jpg&hash=bd84c463d8dace4f91c93888db9ac70f1a0850f9)


Now there's one last switch missing for that project.


Cheers
Volker

Disturbingly superb. it should be illegal to be that talented. -- Russ

This is incredible, Volker. Absolutely perfect. Congratulations

Bernhard

That is absolutely fantastic!

Do you miniaturise yourself to be able to get such fantastic detail at that scale?
Les

Just Lovely nice work
Barney

Thanks Russ, Bernhard, Ray, Les and Barney.

Quote from: finescalerr on December 06, 2020, 12:59:57 PM
Disturbingly superb. it should be illegal to be that talented. -- Russ

It should be illegal to quit publishing that outstanding magazines.

Quote from: Les Tindall on December 07, 2020, 01:43:28 AM
Do you miniaturise yourself to be able to get such fantastic detail at that scale?
Les

No. I am that small  ;D. Just some CAD work according to Shapeways' specifications. The difficult part was to solder the parts and still have them motile at areas being very close to each other. A special anti flux paste and/or an edding (which has an anti flux effect, too) helped to do that. Drilling the holes for the splints (rounded 0.3 mm wire) was the hardest part. For I'm not able to drill the steel rods, I soldered the splints in place (they stuck very tight in the bore holes), then rebored the holes for the shafts and finally soldered the shafts with additional roller bushings in place. I'm going to use glass fiber rods for the connection with the switch blades.

Cheers,
Volker

Can you tell us what the Anti Flux agent exactly is? I've been looking for something like this for a long time. So far I always help myself with a Eding too.

Bernhard

Have a look here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-fGOKsqdmg)
and more here (http://stop%20flow%20anti%20flux)

Quote from: Bernhard on December 08, 2020, 12:30:14 PM
Can you tell us what the Anti Flux agent exactly is? I've been looking for something like this for a long time. So far I always help myself with a Eding too.

Bernhard

It's 'Contex' by Degussa.

Thanks Frithjof and Volker. I will try this.

Bernhard

Meanwhile the burnished bridge (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2257.msg61320#msg61320) got it's final coloring and a first subtle wheathering. Thanks a lot to my friend Toni, who provided a spray booth with LEV in the needed size - and his encouragement for my very first large airbrush project. Hard to believe it's been six years since I made the stretch of track (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2257.msg46666#msg46666) for the bridge. I'm very happy both parts finally got together.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1180086_b.jpg&hash=a4b554081c4642f7432d49301003e03fd560e5dc)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1180093_b.jpg&hash=11234db8abc762e104efa281087ab18eda31af64)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1180095_b.jpg&hash=966442922e862984456ce8beba04813a3c6c4766)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1180098_b.jpg&hash=9a22cadb358dedcd0607655dd1aae94f0f21c354)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1180104_b.jpg&hash=7f0d320484b4c15d0eaa7283de3511527fda85ef)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1180111_b.jpg&hash=2652edc1b81e76d002b878839e7fa9c8c098e2a8)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1180114_b.jpg&hash=5ff3105ac21838fadf9a1675bf4376683c742d4a)


Cheers,
Volker

Satisfactory. -- Russ

Awesome! Really nice work. I love the chipped/corroded paint. How did you get that effect?

That is just great work Volker. The corrosion, chipped paint and efflorescence is just amazing. Well done.

Ray, Narayan,

my intend was to have the orange color appearing, which was so typical for iron structures at least in Germany for decades, called 'Bleimennige' (red lead?), a lead based anticorrosive primer. I recall lots of iron structures showing this color at some spots with deep seated rust and color layers peeling away. Nowadays the poisonous lead color is forbidden and you rather see a brownish/rusty or grey colored primer on iron structures.

First 'layer' was the burnishing of the bridge itself; it had a perfect color to represent old rust and gives a good undercoat for coloring.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1170540_als_Smart-Objekt-1.jpg&hash=f9910509e73f6182fcb259b145be652fdda61027)


Next step was applying some salt at the spots representing rust later on and fixing it with water, and a layer of orange acrylics. The salt needs to be sticky to the surface and completetly dry before airbrushing it:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1180045_b.jpg&hash=e140d1957dac6c9d448a8c323fb65e1479d614df)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1180049_b.jpg&hash=9b702f61c29820a1bf0e9017e5aebab9163af662)


Adding more salt with different grids at the same spots. Second color layer is a grey primer.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1180060_b.jpg&hash=3758da4d14f5531cfd72a7587e271750af9c4264)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1180061_b.jpg&hash=5fe15cb3b8fcb864e2a2f4bde5cff3d0eadd0cce)


I didn't take pictures of the next steps, but basically it was adding some more salt before applying the final grey color. Multiple layers of color add to the effect, always spreading some more salt.

Wheathering is airbrushed water color, applied in dozens of layers. It's fun to work that way because one can remove it easily with clear water airbrushed on with some pressure. It's like using a pressure washer. I first airbrushed the inner areas and so the sides still show the plain grey coloring. The water color sticks tight enough to handle the bridge carefully, but there's a lacquer to come, when wheathering is finished if the bridge is finally placed. This may be in ten years or so :-X.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F571520201213_105549_b.jpg&hash=14a95c387273becf861c25960bc74f0bbd04db2f)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F571520201213_105702_b.jpg&hash=ba08af01c376210a73c523410aa35afda47738f5)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F571520201213_105709_b.jpg&hash=d854f2173708d95f400646ffe7f4a6543e61faf4)


This is my friend Toni's spray booth, barely big enough for the whole bridge, but it worked.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1180062_b.jpg&hash=6b5733c070ea620f36fc0dea5c87272ef86c01e5)

Cheers,
Volker

An excellent tutorial. Thank you. -- Russ

Thank you for this tutorial. I would never have thought of using watercolour in the airbrush gun for weathering. But this works really well.

Bernhard

Thanks for the tutorial -- very helpful! Someday I need to get my old airbrush equipment working again. I can't get such subtle effects using painted sprayed from aerosol cans.

Very good weathering. Thanks for the tutorial.

Very nice - the finish/paint just looks like the bridge at the top of our road
Barney

Don't let Volker fool you. It's all done with mirrors. -- ssuR

Added a whirlybird to the building's kitchen:


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715P1180278_b.jpg&hash=469cd548790deffa8a9246b922ef9c8129121cd6)


Item is printed from this CAD drawing:


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8879%2F5715Kaffeem_hle-001.jpg&hash=7e6494384f3fae7e1dda9415ff1d698df9a09c14)


Many thanks to Uwe!

Cheers,
Volker

I love that view through the window!

An adequate touch. -- Russ

Some seven years ago we've seen here (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2257.msg54727#msg54727) the prototype situation at Maiplatz. And a few modeled details, which now found their niche:


(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20230615_122805b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=134855)


To have the meadow a bit more interesting I added panicles from thicker fibres and very fine colored turf. The base is a cheapo grass mat, some tufts and static grass:

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20230615_122953_1b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=134859)


After some experience with modeling trees I ventured on the robinia, following the prototype shape:

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20230615_123236_1b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=134863)


I'm happy with the overall shape, but bark texture is going to keep me busy for some more time.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20230604_201323b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=134839)


It looks good from a distance, but looking close it isn't edgy and fibrous enough for robinia bark.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20230615_123147b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=134861)


I'm still looking for an approach beyond modeling it the hard way from putty. Any ideas?

(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f1/Robinia_pseudacadia_%28Cortex%29.jpg/512px-Robinia_pseudacadia_%28Cortex%29.jpg) (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Robinia_pseudacadia_(Cortex).jpg)

Robinia pseudacadia (Cortex) (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Robinia_pseudacadia_(Cortex).jpg)
Atamari, CC BY-SA 3.0 <http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/>, via Wikimedia Commons


O well: and don't rely on things you've done years ago: The area's paper printout from back then seems to have been printed to papersize. It took some while to realize that, but neither curbsides nor the low fence did fit to the space - wrong version below.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20230611_094249b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=134846)


Cheers
Volker

Superb. -- Russ

Hi Volker
GREAT.

Very nice kitchen and tree ! The bark work is exceptional.

Volker, looks good. You might be able to get more of the fiberous look you want for the robinia bark with GOLDEN (brand name) Fiber Paste. It's a high quality artist acrylic medium with VERY fine mineral fibers in it that may give you the texture you want.

There's a former professional modelmaker-movie scenery guy who has a number of YouTube videos about building dioramas and an HO layout. Here's two where he uses the Golden Fiber Paste to coat various model tree trunks and wire branches:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCtbeDm7d1c

In this video he starts his description of using the paste at about 6 min 43 sec.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtLoVIsBQ7U

There are more videos where he shows using the fiber paste for trees if you search Boomer Dioramas.

Hi Volker.
Your bridge and the rust feature for me raise an interesting question.
Have you ever tried acid for some other medium to actually corrode the bridge?
I have tried it with Styrine but it just does not want to work.
Any ideas anybody?
cheers

It would be hard to get a true corrosion effect on styrene I think.  You can certainly achieve painted rust effects. I guess you could attack the styrene with a dental bit in a Dremel for more serious corrosion - smoothing the effect out a bit with MEK perhaps.

Or use brass and corrode it with many acids.  One of the etching solutions might be most convenient.  You can protect the bits you don't want to corrode with some form of resist.

Quote from: 1-32 on June 22, 2023, 04:18:40 PMHi Volker.
Your bridge and the rust feature for me raise an interesting question.
Have you ever tried acid for some other medium to actually corrode the bridge?
I have tried it with Styrine but it just does not want to work.
Any ideas anybody?
cheers

Hi, Kim,

no, I didn't, but it should be possible as Lawrence stated. And I second what he said about styrene. I think Nick or Barney have shown some very good styrene examples for mechanically effectuated corrosion. Pressing styrene to a rough concrete surface is a possible approach for those rust dents, too.

I heard that oven cleaner works with aluminum, so this may be a home remedy approach instead of styrene.

As a wise guy I have to state, that rust in first degree increases visible volume. In a second step, when rust layers fall off, decrease of visible material thickness starts. I think this is what you're for.   

Cheers,
Volker

Oven cleaner is based on lye.  Drano is a mix of lye and fine particles of aluminum which when added to water will result in the mixture coming to a boil.  The hot mix readily dissolves grease and pressure generated will force the clog down the drain.

Lye will readily digest aluminum and leave you with well corroded metal.  Use it in small amounts and keep a bowl on household vinegar on hand to stop the lye from digesting the aluminum when you reach the state desired.  Lye applied to aluminum  can cause an explosive reaction so wear protective gear!

Ferric chloride which is used to etch copper and brass will do the same thing and a bit more slowly.  It will stain everything it touches and like lye can burn skin. Rinse the parts in water to stop it from working.  Again, safety gear should be worn.

I had surprisingly good luck using chlorine bleach to "weather" and corrode aluminum.

Sumerging a piece of a disposable aluminum baking pan in bleach for a day gave the metal a dull finish. Forgetting a small piece of regular weight aluminum foil for a couple days, the bleach completely ate away all the aluminum.

Volker, I also commented above with a suggestion that might do what you want to model robinia bark.

Bill,

I'm a bit slow catching up with videos - thank you very much; the fiber paste seems to be a promising approach. The trees shown in the video look very convincing, although there are no closeups from a distance I usually take my pictures. Howsoever I'll give it a try.

Quote from: Lawton Maner on June 23, 2023, 04:18:58 PMLye applied to aluminum  can cause an explosive reaction so wear protective gear!

Ferric chloride which is used to etch copper and brass will do the same thing and a bit more slowly.  It will stain everything it touches and like lye can burn skin. Rinse the parts in water to stop it from working.  Again, safety gear should be worn.

Lawton,

a very valuable hint. I wasn't aware of that!

Cheers,
Volker

Those trees look great. And I do like the associated signage too.

I wanted to share some trees by the Artist Roxy Paine who makes trees in all sized out of stainless steel. Not in the same league as Volker's detailed trees, but impressive nonetheless

https://www.dreamstime.com/editorial-stock-image-washington-dc-metal-tree-national-gallery-art-sculpture-garden-july-was-created-roxy-paine-image64040124 (https://www.dreamstime.com/editorial-stock-image-washington-dc-metal-tree-national-gallery-art-sculpture-garden-july-was-created-roxy-paine-image64040124)

Volker, I saw your comment about the Golden acrylic Fiber Paste and that the YouTube video showing tree bark wasn't close enough for you to tell if the texture was what you want.

Here are three images I captured from some other videos of tree making that were made by the same modeler. I hope these photos may give you a closer look.  You can click each image to enlarge it.

Bill,

thank you very much - the Golden paste for sure is a great medium and it is a pleasure to see how it builds up in layers. Your pictures show, what I was afraid of: although the over all impression is very good, it still is a bit 'roundish' in the details. The Golden products are quite expensive at this side of the pond and I hesitated to spend the money for a maybe unsatisfying result. This and your suggestion led me to testing a mixture of modeling compound, some 2 up to 5 mm long sisal fibres and acrylic binder. A test piece gave a sense of direction, the first picture is the uncolored mixture, which in this state seems rather flat:

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20230628_181201b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135023)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20230629_111736_1b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135025)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20230629_111707_2b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135024)


I used much thicker strands for the tree than at the test piece and I think this comes much closer to robinia bark than the former texture.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20230630_100438b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135028)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20230701_164450b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135030)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20230701_164839_1b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=135034)


Cheers,
Volker

Volker, Adding the sisal fibers to an acrylic binder worked really well for the robinia bark.

Yes Golden products are very high quality but also expensive this side of the pond too. I've used Liquitex Acrylic Matte Medium as a starting point for a variety of small projects. I've added baking soda, very fine sawdust or really fine limestone to it for different textures. I've also added it to Sculptamold and like how it works and how durable it is. All the rockwork and ground cover on my layout is Sculptamold with matte medium or yellow PVA glue and other stuff added to it and it has held up really well.

A work of art with realism
Barney

The new bark is impressively realistic!

I am a big fan of Golden products, especially all the research and development they do with artists and conservators. And Mark Golden is a super nice guy, so of course I want to support his business.


Volker: If you want any Golden products, let me know. I am happy to put a package together for you.

Thanks a lot, Bill, Barney and Ray ... and Narayan! I'll get in touch  8)

I am always deeply impressed by Ray Dunakin's shop Interiors (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2801.msg63193#msg63193), or check out this one (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2801.msg64095#msg64095).

The daunting sheer amount of items to be created lead on to a long hiatus concerning the Lohmann building. I still haven't found a space to work in and so at the end of last year I got back to this rather sparsely space consuming project. Subsequent to this posting https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2257.msg57740#msg57740 (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2257.msg57740#msg57740) there's been some progress, at day and night:

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240127_122809b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137692)


(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240127_123120b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137696)


(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240126_201533b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137683)


(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240126_202256b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137687)


Glasses and watches are made from brass and nicklr silver etchings. I added tiny drops of UV curing resin to imitate lenses and watch glasses and this was the best I could achieve. I had to stick the glasses to the sticky side of a strip of tesa for there was no other way to have and keep them flush with any surface while pouring the resin. 

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240114_202546b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137671)


I had to redo a lot of them because of missing spots, bubbles and other failures.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240114_205731b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137672)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240122_171606_1b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137675)


Some of the watches are wrapped around a small stand made from some plastic and cardboard snippets.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240122_205801b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137680)


The whole assembly is removable for maintenance of bulbs.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240122_173715b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137676)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240126_194911b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137682)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240122_152629b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137674)


Three more large shopwindows to come in 2030.

Cheers,
Volker

The shops are just great. I love that you have Alpina watches, which were very popular then disappeared with the emergence of quartz watches. They were famous for their shock resistance. And Zeiss lenses need no introduction...I have some in my glasses right now.

Your eye for detail and your execution are spot-on Volker. The grate in the granite step is just great.

You know that the watches should all be set to 10:10 by the way.

He LIVES and his modeling is most satisfactory! Good to see you back on the forum, Volker. -- Russ

Thank you for improving my marital relations.

Should my wife doubt my sanity or question my devotion to the modelling bench, I merely have to call up one of your posts to provide perspective and illustrate how fortunate she actually is :-)

Fantastic

Hi Volker.
Great great those glasses and the original graphics in the display case are so convincing.
Yes, it looks like you have been very busy.
cheers Kim

In addition to the amazing glasses and watches, the display windows and entry door are alos very convincing.

Holy cow, that looks amazing! The glasses and watches are incredible!

This looks so incredibly realistic. What a fantastic job. I think these miniature parts would drive even a watchmaker to despair.

Bernhard

Thanks Narayan, Russ, Lawrence, Kim, Bill, Ray and Bernhard.

Quote from: Bernhard on February 07, 2024, 02:17:29 AMThis looks so incredibly realistic. What a fantastic job. I think these miniature parts would drive even a watchmaker to despair.
Bernhard

About watchmaking: I tried different approaches at doing the wall clocks. It works quite well to print a scaled down frontal picture. At this special slotted design I used a scriber to carve the slots. The fringe is made from brass tube, chamfered at 45° and cut to a 0.5 mm slice (according to wall thickness). A drop of UV curing resin leads to the watch glass. 

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20231023_185310b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137644)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20231023_185208b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137643)


This looks quite good at a front view, but it's quite difficult to paint the sides in an appropriate color and gloss level. So I tried something with pear, which comes very close to the prototype's color. Again the 0.1 mm slots are carved, following grain. A 0.1 mm saw blade would do better but I don't have one.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20231024_145244b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137646)


I used a caliper to adjust the fence for scribing.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20231024_145214b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137645)


All in all I like those watches more than the printed ones.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20231026_145920b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137648)

One can't get as close as that later on, not to mention for taking pictures. The area within the face is printed, too. I cut the printed pieces around the brass ring after the resin has set to receive a clean edge.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20231026_150050b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137649)


There was another design with plain surface and I didn't like the not too precise "shivering" the watch glasses into their position. This works in the background, but for the shop window I wanted a good one. I drilled the wooden core, placed the chamfered tube and then cut flush the excess tube material.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20231127_203214b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137651)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20231127_205056b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137654)


There are more designs made from brass and nickle silver etchings, superimposed round blanks and hands.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20231231_180152b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137662)


I've got quite an assortment of them.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240114_210217b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=137673)


I'm looking forward to see them installed in the shop in 2034 or so. 


Cheers
Volker

Volker, That's an amazing assortment of clocks!

I'm looking forward to see them installed in the shop in 2034 or so. Volker
Your photos show that you certainly have "made the time" you need to do that.  ::)

Bill,

I followed the discussion about gold color at Lawrence' thread with big interest. The drybrushing method for sure would have proven an even better approach - I should have known before! I used an Edding 780 which provides quite small flakes.

Cheers,
Volker

The ability to create such 1:22.5 scale timepieces is beyond my comprehension! Good thing I went into publishing instead of model making. -- Russ

Hi Volker.
Great to see that they are all period correct.
cheers Kim

Inspirational - as always

Quote from: 1-32 on March 16, 2024, 02:51:59 PMHi Volker.
Great to see that they are all period correct.
cheers Kim

This is most important to achieve a convincing scene. And research is a huge part of the fun involved here. Online auction houses often have suitable pictures and measurements available for modeling those items.

Already at the optician's workshop (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2257.msg60995#msg60995) I was guided by some historic pictures of an optician from Siegen/Germany. They provide a lot of recommendations for the shop floor, too:

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/1948_laden1_1.jpg)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/1948_laden3_1.jpg)
Both pictures with kind permission by Heinjochen Fuchs, Brillen-Fuchs Siegen (https://brillen-fuchs.de/)


I really fell for the counter. I used several layers of veneer, glued to each other with a 90° offset following grain - a rather fine fibered material for the visible areas and the later on invisible ones from some coarse stuff.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240222_115628b.jpg)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240223_175233b.jpg)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240223_175258b.jpg)


The rear web bracing is cut and notched from 1 mm cardboard.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240223_202324b.jpg)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240223_202449b.jpg)


A first layer of color:

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240225_171549b.jpg)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240225_171610b.jpg)


For the display cabinet I cut some wooden L- and T-sections.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240227_121226b.jpg)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240227_121248b.jpg)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240227_173336b.jpg)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240227_173357b.jpg)


I didn't want to have drawers working (except at the display cabinet) and so some wooden blocks glued to the web spacing were sufficient. The display cabinet's drawers are made from veneer, which then was stabilized with CA.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240227_195413b.jpg)


The handles are remnants from making the kitchen stove (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2257.msg60647#msg60647).

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240228_174422b.jpg)


The surface was still to coarse. I used "Still water effects" by Vallejo to fix that.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240229_104738b.jpg)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240229_104749b.jpg)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240229_104815b.jpg)


Cheers
Volker

Most satisfactory. Need one say more? -- Russ

Great work on that display cabinet! What did you use for the glass?

Should be ready to open up shop soon.  Nice work Volker.

Those clocks are terrific. I can almost hear the crackle of my Geiger-counter is it picks up the radium on the dials. Do you have room inside for some ads for the fine horologists of Glashutte?

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on March 24, 2024, 10:12:14 PMGreat work on that display cabinet! What did you use for the glass?

Ray, I used 0.5 mm Vivak, a plastic that has a very glass-like surface.

Quote from: nk on April 05, 2024, 09:49:57 AMThose clocks are terrific. I can almost hear the crackle of my Geiger-counter is it picks up the radium on the dials. Do you have room inside for some ads for the fine horologists of Glashutte?

Indeed there's an old Glashütte sign involved later on. If I got it right, Alpina was a cooperative that Glashütte became a part of.
 

The facade of Haus Lohmann was decorated with distinctive neon signs that changed over time. I chose this short-term situation with an old Zeiss and a then-modern Dugena advertisement, the Zeiss advertisement can be seen on the right in the picture at the back corner of the house:

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/066_Maiplatz_Lohmann_alt_1.jpg)
Photo: Coll. Heimatkreis Plettenberg e.V. https://www.heimatkreis-plettenberg.de/ (https://www.heimatkreis-plettenberg.de/)


For the older Zeiss advertising, I used frames milled from nickel silver and etched brass cover plates. A core made of 6 mm thick Plexiglas fits in there. Panes made of 0.5 mm Vivak are used for lining to the target size and 0.25 mm polycarbonate panes form the actual glass fronts.

The frames and sheets were first sprayed in the desired tone.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240229_144235b.jpg)


After several attempts, the motif was simply printed out on Photoglossy paper and fixed with fixative.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240302_155726b.jpg)


To imitate a fluorescent tube, which has been on the market since 1938, I glued two cold white LEDs to a plexiglass rod, roughened it up and glued it into a plastic rod (the tube from a pennant with an Italian flag - that doesn't matter, but it is a fact).

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240208_155555b.jpg)


The plexiglass core was given a cross hole to accommodate the "tube".

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240204_124153b.jpg)


The connection cable of one LED runs through a groove cut all around to the exit point...

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240209_122706b.jpg)


... in the rear cover plate, which has a cable entry.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240302_155914b.jpg)


Voila:

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240302_170349b.jpg)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240302_171026b.jpg)


Cheers,
Volker

One could surmise that young Volker has attained the apex of modeling skills. -- Russ

Nicely designed and fabricated sign. Looks good Volker.

Another excellent example of your modeling skills! How long do you work on such a detail?

Bernhard

Quote from: Bernhard on April 20, 2024, 03:10:21 AMHow long do you work on such a detail?

Bernhard,

hard to say. First of all research takes a lot of time. The prototype pics mostly aren't sufficient enough regarding sharpness and so on to realize all details or in this case words on a sign. It helps a lot, if you find a similar preserved item (which in this case I did online). Based on that I was able to create the artwork. I made a successful attempt in bending the frame from 1x1 mm brass angle section, but then thankfully accepted Frithjofs offer to mill the frames including the brackets from nickle silver, which makes it much more stable. This means I had to do a complete 3D construction of all parts for milling and etching purposes, which takes some time, too. Assembling is another point and I find it rather difficult if there's a mixture of delicate surfaces (the printout, the 0.25 mm panes the 0.15 mm enameled copper wire and so on) and some essential force to mount the pieces. Most time first attempt isn't good enough so I redo it at least once. I think it took a week or so all in all.

That brings us to the next topic:

The frame parts of the Dugena neon sign are printed from a dental plastic that is significantly more stable than the usual resin parts. In the original, the frame consists of a wide support frame into which the smaller, protruding pane frames are inserted. On one side I combined them into one printed part so that I only have to insert the two frames on one side. As a precaution, I had the pane frames printed twice.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240126_203238b.jpg)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240126_203353b.jpg)


Those pane frames should protrude just as far as the printed ones. So I had to grind them evenly down to a certain size. I attached them to a board with double-sided adhesive tape and then worked on them on the sanding board.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240128_152015b.jpg)


Since the support frame offers enough space, I was able to use neodymium magnets to attach it to the house wall.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240129_181110b.jpg)


The M 0.8 screws are attached because they are not depicted finely enough in the print.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240129_200108b.jpg)


While the color scheme of the motif was easy to clarify, the framing was a bit more difficult. It was probably painted gold.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240205_162730b.jpg)


I had the motifs plotted out by a foil label maker. The white and red foil are translucent, the black one is not.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240304_204036b.jpg)


The hands are etched and placed on a 0.3 mm shaft.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240304_185500b.jpg)


The Dugena clock - like the Zeiss advertisement shown previously - has a Plexiglass core, into which this time circumferential grooves are milled to accommodate the tubes. A metal core with a 0.3 mm hole is inserted in the middle. When the lighting is switched on, it is visible as the clockwork of the original clock and carries the shaft for the hands.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240304_115540b.jpg)


When it comes to the wordmark, I don't need a core. There is only a tube inserted here to hold the light source. This time I used LED light sticks.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240304_155607b.jpg)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240212_160214b.jpg)


A total of four tubes illuminate the whole thing.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240311_123132b.jpg)


For the connection I used a two-row 3-pin pin strip, which together with the magnets ensures a firm hold.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240311_175307b.jpg)


A drilling and cutting jig helped me when attaching it to the house wall, because the magnets and the dose have to correspond exactly to the situation on the neon sign.

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240311_163319b.jpg)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240311_175321b.jpg)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240311_180141_1b.jpg)


Cheers,
Volker

You did that in about a week???!!!
Amazing!

With 8 hours a day ...

You should move to Switzerland and make limited production designer watches! -- Russ

Really amazing. The smaller the parts, the more time it takes to produce them.

Bernhard

Those signs are blowing my mind! Absolutely fantastic!

Quote from: finescalerr on April 20, 2024, 12:27:51 PMYou should move to Switzerland and make limited production designer watches! -- Russ

Russ,

oh well, just for not wanting to ignore your remark:

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240419_171649_1b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=138140)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240419_172002b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=138141)

(https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/data/8879/medium/IMG_20240419_172506b.jpg) (https://www.buntbahn.de/fotos/showphoto.php?photo=138142)

There are some vases to come for the top shelf, I'm awaiting the prints. Looks like one of three shopwindows is nearing completion.

Cheers,
Volker

Lovely ,lovely Volker but that sign !!

Stunning!