Two-seat vault privy in 1:16 scale
The information for this model came from the book, The Vanishing American Outhouse, by Ronald S. Barlow.
Base
The diorama base has three layers; the top layer (A) is made from 3/4" particle board 10 inches square. I laid out the footprint of the privy and cut out a hole for the vault. The middle layer (B) is made up of 1 1/2" strips of 3/4" particle board and the bottom layer (C) of 1/4" hard board 10 inches square. I glued and nailed the layers together and cleaned up the edges with my 10-inch disk sander, I painted the top edge of the top layer Engine Black and added a frame of barn wood (D) 3/8" by 1 1/2" to the sides.
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Photo #1
Shows the top layer (A) of the base and the footprints of the privy (Note how it is not centered on the base)
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Photo #2
Shows a cross section of the base
A . Particle board 3/4" X 10" X 10"
B . Particle board 3/4" X 1 1/2" X 10" border
C . Hard board 1/4" X 10" X 10"
D . Barn wood 3/8" X 1 1/2" X (2 - 10") (2 -10 3/4")
E . Basswood 1 1/6" X 3/4" (to go around the vault)
Also photo #1 is showing a cross section and top view of the vault. (The two side walls are made up of four separate parts each (e, f, g, h), and the front wall is made up of three separate parts (b, d, j).
a. Wood 1/8" X 3 5/8" X 2 5/8"
b. Wood 1/4" X 3 5/8" X 2 7/8"
c. Wood 1/4" X 2 7/8" X 1 3/4"
d. Wood 1/8" X 3 5/8" X 1 5/8"
e. Wood 3/8" X 1/8" X 2 7/8"
f. Wood 3/8" X 1/2" X 2 1/4"
g. Wood 3/8" X 3/8" X 2 7/8"
h. Wood 3/8" X 1 1/4" X 2 3/4" (cut top on angle)
i. Styrene .040" X 2 7/8" X 3" (cut to fit)
j. Wood 1/8" X 1/4" X 2 7/8" (spacer)
Vault
The vault is made out of basswood 1/8" stock for the bottom 3/8" for the sides and 1/4" for the front and back with 1/8" to add thickness to the front wall to form a ledge for the plates and a 1/8" to add height to the front wall to set on and finish up with a .030" thick sheet of styrene to form up the curved bottom of the vault. I then used a disk sander to smooth up the four sides. When I cut the hole for the vault it was cut a little larger and then I lined the vault up on the layout lines and added (E) 1/16" stock to fill over to the vault leaving just enough room so it can slide in and out but stay true to the layout lines. Now I added spacers (j) to the bottom to get it to the correct elevation as it sets on the bottom layer of the base.
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Photo # 3
After sanding, I primed with Mr. Surface 1000 out of the can then I did a layer of Mr. Surface 500 using a small pallet knife and painted with Floquil Concrete thinned down with Floquil air brush thinner. On the interior face I dabbed on a frisket and painted refer white and then removed the frisket.
Plans
I drew up a full size floor plan and cross sections for both front-to-back and side-to-side and a drawing of all four walls showing the size and layout of the siding. I also did a drawing for both doors. These six drawings are done on four-quad paper. Keep the width of the two side walls the same as the framing and add two times the thickness of the siding on the front and back walls.
Framing
With the finish vault setting in the base I started by pre-painting and cutting all the framing parts. Then I put together the parts for the Floor assembly (A, B,C, D, E, F, G, H). Part (E) is the bottom girth for the front wall and the connecting point for the front wall assembly (I, J) the two corner posts (I) are squared on graft paper and the top girth (J) added. The next two assemblies are the seat and the back wall. For the seat assembly (L, M, N and the seat boards) back wall assembly two posts (O) and two girths (P) need to be laid out and squared on graft paper. Part (N) is the bottom girth for the back wall and the connecting point for the back wall assembly. With the floor and seat assembly glued on the vault the two walls are added. The corner posts sit on the bottom plates (A, L) and to the side of the girth (E, N). As the two walls are added the parts for the side walls (Q ,U).are added. On the front wall add the two door jambs out of 1? x 4?that goes between the top and bottom girths. I made up the three sets of rafters and this finishes the framing part.
Framing parts
A- 2- plates 1/8" x 1/2" x 1 1/2"
B- 2- rims 1/8" x 1/4" x 3 5/8"
C- 2- rims 1/8" x 1/4" x 1 1/8"
D- 2- concrete posts 1/2" x 1/2" x 3/8"
E- 1- girth 1/16" x 1/2" x 3 5/8"
F- 1- spacer 1/8" x 1/4" x 3"
G- 2- steps 1/8" x 1/4" x 2 1/16"
H- 4- steps 1/8" x 1/4" 11/16"
I- 2- front corner posts 1/8" x 1/4" x 3 3/4"
J- 1- step 1/8" x 5/8" x 2 1/2"
K-1- girth 1/16" x 3/8" x 3 1/2"
L- 2- plates 1/8" x 3/8" x 1 1/4"
M- 1- spacer 1/8" x 1/4" x 2 7/8"
N- 1- bottom back wall girth 1/6" x 1/2" x 3 5/8"
O- 2- back corner posts 1/8" x 1/4" x 3 3/4"
P- 2- back wall girths 1/16" x 3/8" x 3 1/2"
Q- 2- side wall top plates 1/8" x 1/4" x 2 7/8"
U- 4- side wall girths 1/16" x 3/8" x 2 7/8"
V- 6- rafters 1/8" x 1/4" x 2 7/8"
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Photo #4
Shows the framing parts and some of the basic dimension
One piece siding
14- Floor boards 1/16" x 1/4" x 1 1/2"
7- Seat boards 1/16" x 1/4" x 3 5/8"
24- Roof boards 1/16" x 1/4" x 3 3/4' or 4"
Vault vent
1- 1/4" x 1/4" x 5"
2- 1/16" x 1/4" x 5 9/16"
2- 1/16" x 3/8" x 5 9/16"
The top of the vent has two end walls
2- Vent roof boards 1/16" x 3/4" x 1 1/2"
Boards for top of vent 1/16" x 1/4" and 3/8" stock
The screen is fine brass screen, I think I got it from Kemtron. (P. S. Co.)
Interior trim
1- Trim under seat 1/32" x 3/16"x 3 5/8"
1- 1/4 round trim on floor small x 3 5/8"
Lids 1/16" x 1/4" stock (add wood handle and hinges)
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Photo #5 and #6
Show the finish framing
Siding
The prototype used 1" x 4" T&G flooring. To simulate this on the roofs, floor boards and the seat, I used 1/16" x 1/4" basswood. On the four walls and the two doors I used my three-layer system with a center layer of .010" clear styrene and an outside and inside layer of 1/32" x 1/4" pre-painted basswood. I cut the clear styrene for the four walls and the two doors using the drawings for size and shape. Now with the piece of styrene lined up on the drawing, I start adding the interior siding using the quad lines on the drawing to keep the siding straight and true. Turn the piece over and add the exterior siding using the back of the interior siding to keep straight and true. The siding is tongue and groove so you don?t want to see light coming though the joints. Try to keep the joints tight. If you don?t add corner trim on the corners you well need to cut in a piece of trim to cover up the three layers of the wall.
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Photo # 7
Shows the four siding walls
Finish work
Add 1/16" x 1/4" trim to the door and windows.
Add 1/16" x 1/8" trim around the under side of the roof boards.
The prototype used prepared roofing. I used a 1/2" scale corrugated paper on my model (On this forum see thread peeling paint on corrugated paper).
The two doors used doll house hinges. The door handles are scratch-built.
The privy was painted with Floquil Reefer White and Caboose Red out of a rattle can.
Ground work
It starts with a thick coat of white glue on the base, then I add a layer of coarse sand and add Woodland Scenics fine and coarse ballast and fine ground foam (both soil and earth colors). For the flora, I used moss, clumps out of a brush and dead sagebrush trigs. The fence has a wood frame with the corrugated paper.
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Photo #8, 9,10, and 11
Completed model.
Gordon Birrell Scratchman
What a great project. Beutifully built and weathered, And I really enjoyed and appreciated the way you did the SBS (step-by-step)...lot's of very good and useful info...I particularly like the effect/finish you acheived on the concrete vault.
Marc
Thanks Marc,
All the concrete I have modeled before now has looked like painted wood. The Mr. surface 500 gives some texture and takes the paint better than the plain primed wood. I have bases,vaults and framing parts for three more dioramas. I'm going to build at least one more now with white board and batten siding and red or green tar paper on the roof. I'm going to be driving to Portland next year and will have plenty of room for model and will probably bring both.
Gordon Birrell Scratchman http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Flickr
In the photos, the model could pass for 1:1 scale! Remarkable work. -- Russ
Great! I look forward t seeing them in person. Will you be bringing the large modular diorama also?
Did you use chalks or additional paint washes/colors over the "Aged Concrete" to get the mottled and nicely weathered finish/effect.
Marc
Finally!
I had been peeking at your flikr site and was wonderin' when/if we would see the whole shebang.
Like Marc I love the step by step; great for someone just getting started in 1:16 <grin>
You and Younger sure have a love of the back houses!
-Marty
That is really an outstanding model its so real unbelievable.
I will have to visit your site you are doing some remarkle work.
Portland should be very interesting indeed.
Jerry
Thanks guys,
Marc
1. I did some sanding before painting
2. Painting with Floquil concrete thinned down 1:3 with Floquil thinner 2-3 coats
3. oil wash- raw umber Artists' Oil Color thinned with Model Masters air brush cleaner
4. The wash may have been laid over a coat Dull Coat
5. I'm also into my first bottle of Silverwood, and I think some of it may have been brushed on
6. I finished with a coat of Dull Coat
No 3/4" diorama will be coming to Portland, the Wife's car's not quite big enough, but I will be bringing at least two outhouses, and I'm just starting a 1918 Doane, Model HP, Low-Bed, 6-Ton Truck. I've already modeled this truck, so a lot of the modeling work has already been figured out, giving me time to add detail and apply new weathering techniques.
Marty
This 1:16 scale can become addicting.
The following two pics are of the second vault, right before painting, I wasn't as heavy with the Mr. Surface 500. I'll have pics of the painting in a day or so.
Gordon Birrell Scratchman
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Gordon Birrell Scratchman
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/)
Thanks Gordon. The second one looks goodso far. How did you do the board form lines?
Look forward to the truck model.
Marc
The following three pics are of vault #2 after the painting is complete.
1- Paint as above # 2(this step I use a brush)
2- Dull Cote (out of a rattle can)
3- Oil wash as above #3(this step I use a brush)
4- Dull Cote (out of a rattle can)
5- I did some streaking with silver wood stain
6- Oil wash right after the silver wood stain (flooded over all surfaces (with a large eye dropper wiping off with a paper towel)
7- Dull Cote (out of a rattle can)
The interior wall was painted as above photo #3. The masking tape is temporary blocking the unfinished lower part of the vault to better see the finish.
Marc
I?m working on the Mr. Surface 500 part on vault #3(more to come)
Gordon Birrell Scratchman
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Thanks for the pics and explanation...beutiful.
Marc
Concrete form lines
After a good coat or two of Mr. Surfacer 500 in the bottle applied with a pallet knife let dry will before moving on. Now add a layer of masking tape I did three layers for my large scale. Out of the can spray a good coat of Mr. Surfacer 1000 up against the tape. Before the paint has dried mold the line with a straight flat tool when moving around the piece keep previous work cover.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/)
Great! Thanks...the board line was the piece of the steps I was unsure about how you acheived it.
Are you still ending up with a slight woodgrain board pattern in areas of concrete when it's all said and dione?
Marc
Holy Sh**
Please excuse my ignorance but I'm trying to learn. What is Silverwood?
John
Silverwood is a chemical wood stain by Builders-In-Scale. It turns wood silver-gray whereas an alcohol and India ink solution tends to turn wood more of a gray-brown (because black particles in the solution embed themselves in the wood pores). Here in the Los Angeles area, the Original Whistle Stop carries Silverwood (although I had to wait six weeks for them to restock!). Caboose Hobbies almost certainly does, too, for online orders.
Initially I doubted Silverwood would appear much different from an India ink solution. I was wrong. It is very effective and I now have a bottle.
Russ
Marc, I used a razor saw running the side of the blade over the work piece to form the lines. Sorry for leaving that step out.
Silver Wood Stain
Google C. C.Crow and click on Builders in Scale under General Modeling Supplies. The stuff is new to me.
Thank you, thank you. Sounds like many of us are learning. I shall order some of the stuff. When I call, are there any other stains i should include in my order?
John
Is Silverwood similar to "Weather-It" sold by A-West?
Don
http://public.fotki.com/DonRailton/lobster-wharf/
Don, I don't know if its the same . What did you used on your lobster-wharf for the weathered wood it looks good.
Gordon Birrell
Gordon - I used "Weather-It" on all of the wood, including buildings that were later partially painted with acrylics. From the descriptions of Silverwood on the forum, it sounds similar.
Don
http://public.fotki.com/DonRailton/lobster-wharf/
From my experience, the main difference is that siverwood stain can be built up to a mauch darker finfish than the "Weather-It". It also seems to have a very slightly brown-grey tint as it builds up, compared to the "Weather-it"...which in my experience tended to be more light silvery grey. The chemical basis/makeup is also different.
Marc
Here's 5 photos of my second privy.
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/)
Nice work, Gordon. I almost have to hold my nose! -- Russ
Awesome Gordon, as usual!
Franck
Very, very nice!!
The only thing missing IS the smell.
Nice work! What is this "Mr. Surfacer" product, and where can I get it? Also, is it something that would be suitable for outdoor use?
Ray, If you google Mr. Surfacer you will fine a lot of info on this product.It is used buy the plastic modelers.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Mighty fine crapper Gordon. Looks good enough to put out behind the house ;)
Paul
Here are 3 photos of my third privy:
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Here are 4 pics of my fourth privy:
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Here's 4 more of the fourth:
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On the fourth privy I used a no-paint technique where I used wood stains and pastels. I'll have a step-by-step soon.
Here's a photo of all four:
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Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
I never thought I'd find outhouse models particularly interesting but yours are works of art, young Gordon! -- Russ
An outpouring of outhouses.....a presentation of privvies....a calvacade of crappers!
Great stuff and great work Gordon! Look forward to the SBS on the new technique.
Marc
It would be a privilege to take a dump in an outhouse that nice.
John
Certainly the best looking kazis I've ever seen... excellent work as always Gordon.
"a calvacade of crappers" ;D ::) - Marc, you've been into the solvents again...
Paul
Quote from: Roughboy on April 21, 2009, 06:25:51 PM
Marc, you've been into the solvents again...
There's nothing like the smell of Xylene in the morning. (or in the case of the Privys...Methane). ;D
Marc
Hell by the time you decided which one to use, oops you would have sh*t your pants!!!!
Most excellent Gordon. Can't wait to find out how you did the no paint thing.
Jerry
Guy's start out buy distressing a little or a lot. In this large scale I'm using a round battery terminal cleaner brush and a hobby knife. For the knot holes, I punched them with a short piece of brass tube. The nail holes are made with a steel pin.
I used both Silver Wood and weather-It on the privy. I started out with the Silver Wood but ran out before I finished. The Silver Wood are the lighter areas.(The doors, the back wall and interior) and the Weather-It are the darker areas. (the boards under the windows.)
Now using a HARD pastel running it with the grain pressing down hard or softly.
I applied a light coat of Dullcote from a rattle can to fix the pastel. There is no problem in doing any of these steps again if you need to darken the grain with the stain or add more pastel. After the last coat of Dullcote has dried , I did some light highlights on the corners without fixing the pastel. If this wears off you can always do it over.
The shingles are tapered using sandpaper.The grain is added with my battery brush. I covered all the surfaces of each shingle with a coat of Weather-It. After all the shingles are on the roof. I applied a few coats of Silver Wood. finishing with a coat or two of Dullcote. For more photos of the forth privy and some test boards go over to my Flickr page.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon Birrell
Gordon, here is a pic of a book I found a couple of years ago, and a model I built posed next to a page from the book. (Search Amazon under "outhouses" and this and several other interesting books show up).
-Younger, anothe outhouse aficianado
Jerry, only you would build an A-frame outhouse. Odd though you may be, I applaud you. -- Russ
Well...I have been resisting posting these here, but find it difficult to continue refraining myself since we're showing Pooper books. (so hopefully gordon doesn't mind.)
These are a couple pf scans from a catalog that was given to me some time back by our friend and collegue Jim Wilke.
Make sure you read the descriptions that go with the image.
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Jerry should be able to find something among these to build.
There are probably still a dozen more in the brochure if anyone is interested...and if it's OK with Gordon.
Marc
The Sportsman is awsome. You can have the runs on the run.
Good point Chuck... perfect for the young upwardly mobile ruralite... definitely a version worth modeling.
I don't know about the "Sodbuster" though... I fear the name is conjuring up some rather disturbing images... :o
Paul
Thanks guys for your input. I'm surprised how many different books are out there on this subject. Jerry great little privy and Marc the photos are wonderful keep them coming.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Here's one I've posted elsewhere but I thought might be of interest .
The names on the doors can always be changed to suit the situation . I thought in these times that the words " Banker" and " Customer" could be substituted .
Nick