Been just playing around building stuff that catches my fancy and looks quick and easy to do. The kind of stuff that can potentially/eventually be used in a small scene or diorama. I like building this kind of stuff as each one is a small model in it's own, and requires research, and presents its own set of challenges.
Here's the first of the recent ones:
I found this barrel rack in a 1920's iron works catalog of mine, and felt I just had to build it. These could be ordered as modular units, that came as K/D sectional parts that could be assembled into any length of rack. The box frames came pre-assembled (riveted) with the 'L' flanges for attaching the rail welded on. The rails could then be added in whatever length desired. Cross bracing was meant to be installed on every other unit, if multiple units/modules were assembled.
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The rack was built using Evergreen styrene. The frame channels are .080" channel. the gusset plates are .010" sheet stock. The rivets are .025" round head rivets from Tichy, the hex bolts are Grandt Line (#127).
A quick styrene jig was made to assemble the box frames. Note that the edges on the jig pieces are clipped, to keep them well clear of the areas to be glued.
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The completed rack.
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The rack shown with barrels and figure for scale.
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The rack sprayed with "Mr. Surfacer" 1200 primer.
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M
Here is another:
These images came from Flickr (sorry, can't remeber the location/photographer).
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I printed some letters to the desired size on paper, and spray mounted the paper leters to varous thicknesses of styrene. I then cut these out of the styrene using an Xacto. Below are a couple of the styrene letters; the 'M' is cut from .020" styrene, and the 'R' and 'E' were cut from .010".
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Here is the 'M' from the above image, as well as another one in their initial assembly step. The two sides have been spaced using styrene .125" 'H" column pieces. The brass circles are leftover pieces from a PE set.
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One of the completed 'M's and the two smaller letters, after receiving a coat of primer. The 'M' is meant to represent the large neon type letters as shown initially, the two skmaller letters are meant to represent stand-off post mount steel letter that were commonplace from the 20's through the 50's. (the posts were tyically inserted part way into the wall behind them..commonl;y masonry). The outside edge of the 'M' was made using .005" sheet styrene.
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The other 'M' is still in the works.
M
Nice job Marc. What scale is it?
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Very cool, and you finished two projects!!!!!!!
<big round of applause>
Great subject material, cant wait to see them somewhere.
I guess the "a,r,c and the "u, s, s, e, r" are forthcoming?
-Mj
Neat little projects, very nice! (That figure is really sharp too -- who makes it?)
I wonder what the brackets are for, which extend above the letters on the hotel sign?
Thanks guys.
Gordon,
Scale is 1/35.
Marty,
Nope......no more letters.......my vanity does have it's limits. ;) ;D ;D
M
Kewl barrel rack Marc,
Are you going to make the M light up? ;) :D :)
Mike
Great letters Marc, cool exercise... so if you're not going to finish spelling your name, then this must be a monogram... ;) :)
Paul
Thanks again guys.
Ray,
The figure is from Verlinen. It is from one of their 3 "Railroad Workers" sets. It did need assembly, and I did do some clean-up, and minor surface sculpting.
The letters for the hotel sign are hung on a display rack......the guy that has the signs/letters seems to have built a specialty rack for displaying the various words/signs. Other photos show the rack in full, with other words hanging from it.
Mike,
My aura will make it glow all on it's own. ;D ;D
Paul,
Look for it in all my future works...sort of a "Where's Waldo" thing ;) ;D
MRE
As good as these pieces are, I'm waiting to see what you incorporate them into. Somehow you always seem to use your ancillary stuff to great advantage on larger projects. -- Russ
I have thoughts :-X ;)......but first there are probably at least two dozen more small projects like this I need to build (plus hundreds of smaller detail pieces/parts)....and of course paint...which will take a ton of work and experimenting.
...and I have been experimenting. This was playing around with my some artists oils, MIGrust wash, and pigments on a scrap 1/48 scale Bmann cab. The cab is the one I used for the salt technique demo the meet...so the chipped unbdercoat color is not quite right for this rust (as it is Oxide red primer)....but that is something that would be corrected on any final project/model. (Sorry photos aren't great...they were just quick snappies)
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...Btw...I think there is definitely another "springs" type detail in the offing.
M
Great little project Marc!
I like very much your little barrel rack, and letters, more over in 1:35 scale!
Nice job too on the bmann cab, but I'm not still convinced by the salt technique...The rust blobs are too round and too regular... ;)
Franck
Quote from: marc_reusser on October 18, 2009, 01:11:36 AM
I have thoughts :-X ;)......but first there are probably at least two dozen more small projects like this I need to build (plus hundreds of smaller detail pieces/parts)....and of course paint...which will take a ton of work and experimenting.
...and I have been experimenting. This was playing around with my some artists oils, MIGrust wash, and pigments on a scrap 1/48 scale Bmann cab. The cab is the one I used for the salt technique demo the meet...so the chipped unbdercoat color is not quite right for this rust (as it is Oxide red primer)....but that is something that would be corrected on any final project/model. (Sorry photos aren't great...they were just quick snappies)
Marc, You never fail to inspire!
Marc, What made you want to build the old HOTEL LETTERS ???? do you have a building that your going to be putting them on. These were a very simple way to make the neon stand out with a painted white backgroud you could see this sign MILES away......Craig
Craig,
No real reason...I just always like dthe way those old signs looked, and thought it would be fun little build (also something you don't see often on models)....plus would make a unique and interesting pice of clutter/scrap in some kind of a scene....the kind of thing where it is leaning against an old wall with stuff leaning against one part of it, clutterans scrap all around...maybe even a rag or tarp covering part of it....the kind of thing that someone said "Hey...I could use that"....but then never does and it just sits rusting and collecting dust.
M
Quote from: marc_reusser on October 18, 2009, 06:12:51 PM
Craig,
No real reason...I just always like dthe way those old signs looked, and thought it would be fun little build (also something you don't see often on models)....plus would make a unique and interesting pice of clutter/scrap in some kind of a scene....the kind of thing where it is leaning against an old wall with stuff leaning against one part of it, clutterans scrap all around...maybe even a rag or tarp covering part of it....the kind of thing that someone said "Hey...I could use that"....but then never does and it just sits rusting and collecting dust.
[ Marc, heres one of my orig signs i picked up and sold it was double sided had a few more old ones that were neat but..... never took pictures of them ]Craig
M
These letters are so cool! I see these all the time when I am out in the boonies, how about some fiber optics with a flickering no vacancy.......................... Sort of like a "bates motel" ? I have a cool sign from a fruit stand in Yakama i will have to dig it out and send it to you
Gil
Great sign Craig, thanks for posting. I had to look twice to make sure it wasn't one of your model creations.
Gil; I hear they're all the rage out in your neck of the woods....though there is supposedly this new-fangled thing called LED that may be coming there soon....well...maybe first you'll get those scrolling signs that look like Lite-Brite. ;) ;D ;D Maybe I can machine a flat surface on some small fiber optic strands...heat form them, and then paint the round (non machined) surface white...Yep.....I'll get right on that. ;) ;D ;D
M
Great stuff, Marc. I really like the letters, and that barrel rack
my well show up on one of my future dioramas... ;)
Nice job with the salt technique, too. Some model car guys have been
doing that with very good results. I'll find & post some pics..............
Marc, heres some pictures of a sign project i was working on years ago for my mobil station. My idea was to light it up with 2 light shades on a pole on top of the sign shining down on its face..... plus i wanted to light up the fiber optic DROPS comeing out of the nozzles. I dont know if the light would travel through the drops?? as its not made all in one piece, havent tested it out yet........ and what watt bulb ill have to use for it to work good???...... Heat might be a problem......if heat will be a problem then ill have to make the sign out of brass..... Open to ideas about POWERING the sign on the POLE for it turns real SLOW ::) want to use some thing cheap for the motor???... What... i dont know [anyone have any ideas] Craig
Very cool sign idea.
I would consider using LEDs instead of bulbs....much smaller, higher light output (that I think could be moderated using a resistor, and the light could be tinted "warm-yellowish" using a clear paint...like Tamiya)...but best of all...no heat to worry about.
For turning the sign, you could use a hollow pole (K&S alum tube)....then put a shaft through it that runs from the sign to under the scene/dio, and then use a geared down motor set-up from there.
Caveat: I suck at motors and gearing stuff.......but Micro Mark seem s to make a motor set-up specifically for scenery/animation type of use... http://www.micromark.com/MOTORIZED-PLANETARY-GEARBOX,8179.html (http://www.micromark.com/MOTORIZED-PLANETARY-GEARBOX,8179.html)..... it seems to have a min rotation of 13/rpm...which is probably still faster than you want...but you could physicaly gear it down one more time to someting like 1/4 that speed or less by using another 4:1 or 6:1 gear set-up between the motor and the shaft. ......just a thought.
Marc
Marc is right, LED's are the way to go. (FYI all LED's require a resistor)
Using something like a microphone or speaker jack at the base of the pole would allow continuous contact with the wires to the lights in the sign.
If you look on the 'net you can find slower motors, and reducing the voltage would slow them down more.
Using fiber optics for the drops would work great and they'd ba small enough to be invisible.
There is a company called Ngineering that does amazing things in Nscale with LED's and micro tubing.
Let me know if I can be of any further assistance.
-Marty
Speaking of 3-D signs, here's one from an on-going (IE: "stalled") project:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages34.fotki.com%2Fv1076%2Fphotos%2F1%2F15405%2F5779607%2FP6070005-vi.jpg&hash=d72119b37e4d996caaedc81b8e4389770e9c5c8f)
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That's really cool, Ken! What happened to stall the project? It looks pretty far along in that shot.
Hey Guys, Good info......... LEDs that sounds good, never thought of that,.... dont have to worry about the heat problem then... and dont they come in different colors to?? Marty, the company Ngineering do they have a web site? like to check them out. micro Mark, ill order one of there catalogs and see what they have in motors../ gearing kits??? thanks Craig
Hey Ken,
That Wall and Diner is seriously cool... you will show us this jewel one day... yes? ::)
Mike
Ken,
Nice scratchbuilding work on the sign!
M
Why aren't your fingers in the lower photo? -- Russ
SMD led's are THE way to go for signs, lights in cars,trains,etc. I am using them for illuminating the sawmill.
the smallest are 1,2mm x 1,8mm with a very good light emission, colors ranging from gas-yellow to hard white.
0805 has the following dimensions 2,1x 1,3x 0,8 mm and can be used to represent globes together with a shade if wanted.
0603 is 0,9x 1,6x 0,8 mm this can still be soldered without using a magnifier.
0402 is 1.0x 0.5x 0.5 mm : very very difficult to solder the leads.
With the correct resistor(s) they can be powered direct from the AC 14 - 18V power supply or DC.
Jacq
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on October 20, 2009, 06:50:34 PM
What happened to stall the project? It looks pretty far along in that shot.
While reaching for something on the bench, I did a "Godzilla" and stuck my hand through the wires.
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Just about everything you see here is gone.
On the upside, I didn't like the stretched-sprue wires or the epoxy-blob insulators anyway.
I've now got piano wire and better crossbucks for when I can bring myself to get back to it.
Yikes! That would be heartbreaking to destroy so much fine work. Though I must confess, I'm kind of glad to know I'm not the only one who has done something like that.
today I accidentally melted a loco body with a heat gun!
Michael
Oh...that sounds awful.......but you just know I have to ask....."any photos?"
Nice to see you back here posting Michael.
Marc
Hey Marc,
There is nothing like a good meltdown photo..... ;D :D ;D
Michael:
Sorry to here that michael, I hope it was not one of your favorites... bummer... Guess you will have to build one now... ;)
Mike
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Marken, Thanks for posting the gas station rotating sign article...just what i needed ;D could you e-mail me a copy im haveing trouble seeing the small print on the post? or give me the year and month of the model railroader. thanks Craig
I'm still looking for it. Can't find the mag so far. I know it was on the last page.
Did you try printing it out?
I'll keep looking. Got boxes full...
Quote from: Marken on November 11, 2009, 05:09:10 PM
I'm still looking for it. Can't find the mag so far. I know it was on the last page.
Did you try printing it out?
Marken,..... I printed the page of the roating sign out and i was able to read it then ::) ..... Thanks Craig
I'll keep looking. Got boxes full...
Some more clutter.......spent some time at the bench tonight and threw together a small 2'-gauge light work/utility car frame. This is not patterened after a specific manufactured prototype, but rather a conglomoration of pieces from photos of "shop-built" or shop-modified cars/frames like this. The front left 'Z' beam in the images is intentionally slightly bent...as if it had a run in with a stationary object. The 'Z' beams are still missing 3 worn wood members running on top of them along their length (these will be added after painting). The car is a 6' scale feet long with a 3' wheelbase. I used 1/48 scale 20" wheels from Grandt, into each of which were drilled three holes. Bearing journals are also Grandt. The rivets are .025" from Tichy (took an entire pack to do this car), The 'C' channels are actually .125" 'H" channels cut to a 'C' shape, in order to get a more prototypical flange depth. Pins are from Precision Scale, and links are from Simpson.
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M
Turned out rather nicely. Quite snappy and credible. -- Russ
Thanks Russ. Maybe I can use it as part of the caboose challenge. ::)
Here are two more quick pics of the car with after a primer coat.
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M
Marc, more great detail, good idea using the 'H' channel.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Very nice, Marc. I was wondering how the rivets would look when their color fits that of the remainder of the car. Your last shots show how nicely sized they are.
Quote from: marc_reusser on November 15, 2009, 04:19:28 PM
Here are two more quick pics of the car with after a primer coat.
Seems like the little bugger passed the "primer test" with flying colors (if you can speak of colors when disussing a model primed with white...)!
Nothing like a nice coat of primer to pick out all blemishes on a model.
Look forward to see the next steps in the painting process.
Regards, Haavard H
Looks great so far!
Marc ,
Your little car frame has turned out looking pretty good . I look forward to the aging and weathering process . If you get around to it .
It has been in my mind for some time to build something like this and seeing yours may just spur me on to get cracking on one .
My only comment is this . Not knowing how you intend finishing this car off my comment may be off the mark here but if I was doing it I would be inclined to have had the two outside "Z" beams closer to the ends of the car . Or even turned the other way around so that the timbers you are yet to put on would have maximum support .
Am I just being pedantic ?
Still it is better than the one I haven't built !
Nick
Actually, Nick, the cars you haven't built are a little better in every way, including the yet to be conceived weathering. While Marc's attempt is by no means feeble, it does take second place to your nonexistent masterpiece. -- ssuR
Nick,I had considered the reversal of the 'z'....but for several random reasons I didn't:
- The primary one being visual, I did't like seeing the undercut instead of the face of the 'z' when looking at the car in 3/4 view fron the end.
- I liked the visual spacing, weight and proportion, especially since I was more concerned with how it would look as and amongst discarded clutter in a scene.
- I liked the way the 'z' laps over the wheel protrusion above the frame, and thus places the load bearing more in line over the wheel bearings.
- I felt by moving the 'z' bar any closer to, the car end, and/or reversing it, visually crowded the coupler/pin area.
- I was also for some reason thinking of this somewhat "architecturaly" for some odd reason.....I was envisioning a wooden caboose box structure on this (only temp for Russ's challenge) being built directly on the timbers on the 'z' tops....this would give me an aooprximate 24" 'joist' spacing onto which I could nail the the 2" floor boards, and not have too much deflection. I could then also cantilever the floor boards 6-9 inches past the 'joists' at the end, which would allow acces to bolting the wall sills, and still provide enough rigidity/support. When all this was tadded in length, including wall sheathing, the box would be just so long as to still allow unfettered acces to the pin/coupling area.
So there you have my non scientific, convoluted thoughts that passed through my mind as I cobbled this together..... ;D
...basically I just sit down at my bench with some photos, or catalog cuts, pull out the plastic and start building. ;D
Russ: You just want to consider anything "unbuilt" as superior....it helps you assuage your own guilt and lack of production ;) ;D
M
So I am thinking of building this (or something really close) as one of the pieces of clutter. Should look great standing out in the weeds. It kind of reminds me of some kind of bug or sci-fi thing.
Does anyone have or know where I can find additional pics of this? I found this one on the web some time ago (can't remember where, but as I recall it was the only image.)
M
Marc,
I think I'm coming to realise that its your subject choice that always captures my attention with your modelling. This thread for example, just bits and pieces. The sort of things that the average modeller would build as a secondary piece, to fill in a space on a diorama say, but you've treated each item built here as a detailed piece. That shows a good modelling focus, concentrated small sections as opposed to a grand vision. I'd be interested to see a collection of how many of these small incidental pieces you have built over the years. Certainly it would make it easy to experiment with building up diorama's having a handy collection of misc parts to play with.
Dan
Marc,
I knew you would have a logical reason for making the car as you have . I was just trying to bring you out of your shell a bit to explain your thinking .
I love the crane photo . The beauty of making a model of something that might have been " shopbuilt" is that after a few basic principles have been observed you can just about build anything you want .
So you are talking about a crane like this being " one of the pieces of clutter" . On what ? A diorama you might build or perhaps your new 1/35th scale industrial narrow gauge layout ( with working loco) you have in planning? Please tell .
Russ ,
Is it to early to enter my " concept caboose complete with imaginary weathering " into the competition ? If not ,all I have to do is find a way of downloading the images in my head onto your computer and I'm done .
Nick
That little crane is too cool -- an excellent subject for modeling!
Dan,
Thanks for the kind words. And quite insightful as to some of my reasoning behind the bits and pieces approach.
I that I think I am pretty good at research, deducing function and reasoning behind things, and observing things around me, and "seeing" them.......then at least trying to implement these on my models in a technical aspect (IE paint, finish, weathering)......but I have fand ound and come to accept, that I lack the ability to transform the many different scene/diorama visions and ideas in my head, into a creative, interesting and well functioning scene....I tend to be far too pragmatic, stiff, and "basic". I am no Per Olav Lund or such, by any stretch of the imagination.
I also felt that I suffered from what you mention...the creating of a central scene/element, then crowding in whatever stock details were readily on hand to fill/fit in around it. This always makes things appear posed or forced.
.....SO....
for this thread and hopefully eventual subject/scene, I came up with the idea of "reverse engineering" the process; which benefits me greatly in many ways.
Building small weird things allows me to actually get something done in a limited amount of time. It also allows me to build some of the weird odds and ends that I see in photos, catalogs or life...things that grab my interest and work with my short attention span. It also lets me do stuff that is a bit off the beaten track of modeling subject matter. ;)
It allows me to keep on top of and hopefully grow my modeling skills, and always try something new or slightly different, in a quick and easy manner....without being bogged down under a lengthy and complicated build (which I already have plenty of sitting in drawers).
...and going back to the details comment....hopefully approach a scene in a more realistic manner, of rather than building or finding details to place around a central object/theme...just build details and then have (or force/crowd them) to fit them into a scene.....sort of the way stuff happens in real life...especially, say, an old industrial Ry yard that is weeding over....the kind of place where the owner over time just ended up with all kinds of stuff just laying and stacked about...we've all seen the kind of place, where you just look and wonder what all the crap was, and what it was for, or how and why some of it got there......the kind of place where the surroundings are more, or just as interesting as the focal object....heck...maybe there isn't even a focal object....just an empty center surrounded by all sorts of stuff.
One last benefit of doing these small bits is that when I get around to starting to paint them, they should give me a lot of opportunities to try different approaches, and do different finishes.
I used to have a fair number of these in 1/48...but many have gone away to the rubbish bin...some I saved just because I might still have a use for them, or I have some kind of an attachment to them (because I want to try them again, or want to experiment further with them, or they remind me of the work effort they took).....but now that I am getting into 1/35, I am pretty much starting from ground zero.
A couple of things that are rattling around in my head at the moment really holding my fancy, are the crane above (though that is a bit more involved), a small portable cement mixer, and an abandoned set of clothes lockers (the old metal type like you see in schools or factories)....though I may have to digress to also do some kind of a wood caboose. ;D
I have also been itching to build a couple of really cool O&K skeleton cane cars.......but, what the hell I would do with then when done I have no idea. :-\
M
Nick,
I hope your happy with yourself....forcing poor old me into opening up, and showing my vulnerable side. ;) ;D
M
Hi Marc,
there is a supplier in Germany called Wenz who has a locker in 1:43 scale (and a lot of other nice stuff too ::) ;) ). http://wenz-modellbau.eshop.t-online.de/epages/Store_Shop00671.sf/de_DE/?ViewAction=View&ObjectID=1181823&Page=2 (http://wenz-modellbau.eshop.t-online.de/epages/Store_Shop00671.sf/de_DE/?ViewAction=View&ObjectID=1181823&Page=2)
As far as I understand he etches his stuff himself so he might be willing to etch some of them in 1:35 ?! A friend of mine has bought several items from him and found him to be very supportive.
The portable cement mixer does make me curious though ;) ;D
Good luck,
Marc
Marc,
Thanks for the link, that is the type of cabinet I am thinking of........I will probably still build it from scratch though , as that is part of the fun for me whenever possible ;D.
M
Marc,
love this thread and really enjoyed reading the thought process ;)
Thought these may be of interest re "cement mixer"
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2Fdscf3948.jpg&hash=bcc9142b100af1db9f1c1c5339f300093b0e2d89) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2Fdscf3951.jpg&hash=563fd1867f4256291b7535743e5bcac454c4d658)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2Fdscf3952.jpg&hash=4cea3c8f9bc3ea390a2302d4a600064487563e9c)
There are few more detailed shots here http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee275/gfadvance/cement%20mixer/
These were supplied by Trevor Coburn and were taken in Nigeria
As for your crane, can't help with the one you have shown but this is one has some similar traits i.e movable water ballast
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FHeatherslaw%2520Light%2520Railway%2FHeartherslawLightRailway082.jpg&hash=53748e215f317f69e6d9864fb19391f8f0054495)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FHeatherslaw%2520Light%2520Railway%2FHeartherslawLightRailway087.jpg&hash=2d69b20fa33708afda0e9952554821d93fa6d5e7)
Again there are a few more detailed shots here http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee275/gfadvance/Heatherslaw%20Light%20Railway/
Crane shots are on page 5 , all taken by myself earlier this year.
Gordon,
Great info/photos on both subjects. Thanks! Much appreciated.
The boom on that crane is wild!....I have never seen one like that. Had I seen that on someones model I would have thought they were mental. ;D
M
Cool picture on the crane. I especially like the movable water ballast tank !
I hope I can resist this but am afraid this adds another project to the list ::) ;D
Marc,
I always appreciate the time you put into your postings, thankyou. Just with the few details you have started, and then the ones you have also mentioned for other "bits" ideas, I can see the final picture.
"we've all seen the kind of place, where you just look and wonder what all the crap was, and what it was for, or how and why some of it got there..."
Just a fence line, the rear boundry of a small industry, a nicely aged timber fence at that, and the history of that industry gathering rust and dust in amongst the long grass. The beauty in such a display is letting your eyes wander through the remains and discovering how it came to be. That long grass will be a bitch to model though...one blade at a time! I love the story behind a good junk pile.
Gordon,
I can see Marc's paint finish all over that cement mixer...hairspary technique, washes, filters, pigments, dangerous chemical reactions, its all there in one unit. Even the flat tyre, just for an excuse to get some plastic on the heat and squash it around a bit...that got me inspired. Thanks...
Cheers,
Dan
" I'd be interested to see a collection of how many of these small incidental pieces you have built over the years. Certainly it would make it easy to experiment with building up diorama's having a handy collection of misc parts to play with."
Ooooh, Dan, you don't know what you ask! I've seen many of Marc's "unfinished" clutter.
-Younger
Quote from: gfadvance on November 17, 2009, 12:36:44 AM
Marc,
love this thread and really enjoyed reading the thought process ;)
Thought these may be of interest re "cement mixer"
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2Fdscf3948.jpg&hash=bcc9142b100af1db9f1c1c5339f300093b0e2d89) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2Fdscf3951.jpg&hash=563fd1867f4256291b7535743e5bcac454c4d658)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2Fdscf3952.jpg&hash=4cea3c8f9bc3ea390a2302d4a600064487563e9c)
There are few more detailed shots here http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee275/gfadvance/cement%20mixer/
These were supplied by Trevor Coburn and were taken in Nigeria
As for your crane, can't help with the one you have shown but this is one has some similar traits i.e movable water ballast
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FHeatherslaw%2520Light%2520Railway%2FHeartherslawLightRailway082.jpg&hash=53748e215f317f69e6d9864fb19391f8f0054495)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FHeatherslaw%2520Light%2520Railway%2FHeartherslawLightRailway087.jpg&hash=2d69b20fa33708afda0e9952554821d93fa6d5e7)
Again there are a few more detailed shots here http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee275/gfadvance/Heatherslaw%20Light%20Railway/
Crane shots are on page 5 , all taken by myself earlier this year.
I saw that crane in the flesh less than a month ago while I was on my "summer holiday" in Northumberland . In fact we were staying about 5 miles away . I didn't think to take any pictures of it as I was to busy taking shots of the loco .
I thought it was used more for track laying . But as there is only about half a mile of track I guess it isn't used much .
Nick
hi Nick,
It was on my "summer holiday" in Sept that I took these shots .... to be fair reckon track length is probably about 1.5 to 2 miles? ( 15 minute trip aver. speed about 5mph) and they do seem to have relaid a lot of the track.
There are a lot of shots of the loco on that thread if of interest to you
Gordon:
That crane is fantastic... what piece of engineering. I particularly like the movable water ballast. Is it an electric drive hoist, i can't really tell from the photos but it looks like an electric winch in the cab area?
Paul
Here are some more small cranes that I had pics of:
M
...'Nother.....
I was looking through my HD for some stuff, and came across these images, thought they might be of interest to anyone wanting to build a sort of flat/utility car thing.
...of interest to Sir Nick, might be the bunk spacing on the first one :P ;D ;D ;D
M
...s'more....
....and yet s'more.....
...and the last two.
Marc,
you are spoiling/teasing us ! ;) ;D
Those little cars make very nice little projects !
Do you have some suggestions where to by the journals as the ones in the pictures for example ? The frames could relatively easy be made from styreen but journals and wheels are another story.
Cheers,
Marc
Marc,
I used the 1/48 scale journals from Grandt Line. They pass reasonably okay for smaller journals in 1/35. They are Delrin, so they need to be slightly textured by using an air-eraser, or a fiber-glass bristle brush, to make the primer stick better (I also like to use Mr. Surfacer 'Resin Primer' for them if/when I shoot them seperate from the car...it sticks to the Delrin pretty good.)
The bad part about the Grandt journals, is that they do not sell them as a seperate item (unless you order in bulk...I think the minimum was 200) before that I used to buy the Grandt kit, keep the journals and wheels, and throw away the rest.
I think that if you were planning on only building one car...though a bit of work....most of the styles shown could be done in 1/35-32 using styrene tube or rod, and some styrene sheet/strip. ...and if you absolutely need to make it roll/work, you could insert some brass bearings/cups.
M
Hi,
last week I received kits of crane extension parts. I think these parts would fit nicely as Bits, Pieces and Clutter in a corner on any 1:32/35 NG layout of diorama. ;)
See the link for the parts and a very nice crane !
http://www.accurate-armour.com/showaaproducts.cfm?category=14&subcategory=25 (http://www.accurate-armour.com/showaaproducts.cfm?category=14&subcategory=25)
Regards,
Marc
Marc.
I completely agree...I was quite intrigued by the kit when saw your pics of it on the FS32 group. Thanks for the link.
For a while I was actually thinking of doing a reaaly cool smaller triangular one, that I used to see laying around in an equipment storage yard that I ride/cycle by......but it seems to suddenly have disappeared...and I never thought to take a photo of it at the time! DOH! :-X..... Maybe it will come back some day :-\.
M
OK Marc firstly apologies................ should have asked first but worked on the basis "thats its easier to get get forgiveness than it is to get permission"
Posted on the Gnatterbox, http://forum.gn15.info/viewtopic.php?t=5833&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight= your pictures of the cranes........ I least had the decency to accredit them to you.
Very quickly this has turned into a little challenge to produce a crane or lifting device .....closing date Feb 18th 2010.
http://forum.gn15.info/viewtopic.php?t=5908&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=
Know you occasionally look in/post on the Gnatterbox so feel free to join in .......... like me you probable need another project /scale :)
How about challenging the Gn15 lot to an inter-forum competition ( possibly a first ? ) to build a small works crane , like what they have already started ? I haven't a clue how it would be judged , I haven't got that far , but food for thought maybe ?
Marc ,
Thanks for all the photos , there should be enough info there to cobble something together .
Nick
Here are some pics of a small crane I've always wanted to model. I found it on a maintenance spur in Carrizo Gorge, along the San Diego & Arizona railroad, back in the late 1970's. Unfortunately the mechanism is missing so that would have to be freelanced.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.raydunakin.com%2FSite%2FCarrizo_Gorge_files%2FMedia%2F104_3cranew%2F104_3cranew.jpg&hash=78e9e806792b7941702e23f416f5d3b238603a35)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.raydunakin.com%2FSite%2FCarrizo_Gorge_files%2FMedia%2F105_4cranew%2F105_4cranew.jpg&hash=13a45e8837d30cc8377d2b376efe94103cb0d708)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.raydunakin.com%2FSite%2FCarrizo_Gorge_files%2FMedia%2F163_1cranew%2F163_1cranew.jpg&hash=e0ff9bba58befba50b2ceb16f0f50a2536b8cddd)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.raydunakin.com%2FSite%2FCarrizo_Gorge_files%2FMedia%2F169_3cranew%2F169_3cranew.jpg&hash=c620d4d053353cad40a23241369ace8c3791c063)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.raydunakin.com%2FSite%2FCarrizo_Gorge_files%2FMedia%2F170_4cranew%2F170_4cranew.jpg&hash=51d75c1b19df3c2f9d63304ec73b48f4ee6a9bf9)
Nice... Very Nice! Ray, I like the way it turrets
Thanks for showing those photos.
Mike
Quote from: gfadvance on November 18, 2009, 08:57:30 AM
OK Marc firstly apologies................ should have asked first but worked on the basis "thats its easier to get get forgiveness than it is to get permission"
Posted on the Gnatterbox, http://forum.gn15.info/viewtopic.php?t=5833&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight= your pictures of the cranes........ I least had the decency to accredit them to you.
Very quickly this has turned into a little challenge to produce a crane or lifting device .....closing date Feb 18th 2010.
http://forum.gn15.info/viewtopic.php?t=5908&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=
Know you occasionally look in/post on the Gnatterbox so feel free to join in .......... like me you probable need another project /scale :)
Gordon,
No apologies or concerns necessary...Thats' why I post this stuff...for others to use and have fun with. Though kind of you, I don't really deserve any credit, as I am unfortunately unable to do the same, and credit where/from whom, the photos originally came from. I have been collecting images from the web, or sent to me by others for years, and I just sort of plonked them on a big external drive.....so there they all have been accumulating with no order, and no recollection/notes of where they were from.
The challenge looks quite interesting...and tempting, but I think the timeframe is too short for me for the one I was considering, as it has enough detail to slow me down. ....but just in case.......I see that the wagon dimensions are scaled for GN15.....would it be the same dimension for 1/35? (not relatively scaled, but the same 54 x32 or whatever that was?).......would 1/35 even be allowed?.....BTW. I would gladly volunteer to Judge for you.....but that might be your worst nightmare ;) ;D ;D ;D You would definitely have to come up with some judging criteria to keep me in line ;D
BTW, Gordon,.....and quite hush-hush, nudge, nudge....I have an ace up my sleeve, and could help you gain quite the edge if you plan to build the greenish/mossy crane.....I have several more images of that one ...including some detail close-ups. ::) :-X.
Marc
Ray,
That is one cool little crane. Thanks for posting it. (and thanks for water-marking the pics...now I will know where they came from when I dig theem out of my Hard Drive later on. :) )
M
Here is a model of a small crane someone built....again not sure who or where it came from, or what scale, but I believe/seem to recall, it came from Daniel Caso's 750yM-2 Argentine group, and this model was built using paper.
M
Neat model!
Here's a little pillar crane I built for my Cliffside Mine. It's purely freelanced so probably not super-accurate:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.raydunakin.com%2FSite%2FIRR_Photos_files%2FMedia%2Fw7699_20A%2Fw7699_20A.jpg&hash=b36f26d3b451c60ad2819689c4e6f756f4657458)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.raydunakin.com%2FSite%2FIRR_Photos_files%2FMedia%2Fw7699_16A%2Fw7699_16A.jpg&hash=e55b3a983b391aac85b7167c6bfe12f36b4f2182)
Some of the gears came from an old camera. The larger gears came from my old printer, and I used a Dremel to carve the spokes.
Ray,
I like your freelanced crane. I love the pictures of the old SD&A hoist makes one wonder what could have powered it?
To deviate even further from rail mounted hoists/cranes here is a pic of a stiff leg derrick with a hand crab I scratched for the iron works loading dock.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F1stclass.mylargescale.com%2Fr.w.marty%2Fderrick1.jpg&hash=f43594c36f081461c68575f086e28b40f2ac9234)
Later
Rick Marty
Rick,
The crane is beautifully done. I assume you scratch-built all the hardware. When did you build this.....the pics of the building in the '1:1 Weathering' thread did not have this in the photo?
M
Some more small Cranes:
From "TH EMT" http://www.themt.de/org-0380-49.html (http://www.themt.de/org-0380-49.html)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.themt.de%2Fimages%2Fkran-rk-000.jpg&hash=17c05176e21e8086b1401f1937a3781a9dc5c5ae)
From "MENK" http://www.baumaschinenfreunde.de/MENCK/Zur_Geschichte_der_Firma_MENCK/zur_geschichte_der_firma_menck.html (http://www.baumaschinenfreunde.de/MENCK/Zur_Geschichte_der_Firma_MENCK/zur_geschichte_der_firma_menck.html)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.baumaschinenfreunde.de%2FMENCK%2FZur_Geschichte_der_Firma_MENCK%2FDampfkran%2FKrahnkle.jpg&hash=3b93fd105bce084fc47c44be214b8c7c7673b570)
From MBS http://www.modellbahnshop.com/product_info.php?info=p24575_35101-Bw-Kran--der-DR-Ep--III-IV.html (http://www.modellbahnshop.com/product_info.php?info=p24575_35101-Bw-Kran--der-DR-Ep--III-IV.html)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modellbahnshop.com%2Fimages%2Fproduct_images%2Fpopup_images%2F120853.jpg&hash=5f2997abe3278ee7c91cddc69627808faaa323a9)
From Buntbahn.de http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?t=6337 (http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?t=6337)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mike-bk.de%2Flgb%2Ffbw%2Ffb47.jpg&hash=a9e0cf12bbfe9fdc29190205a665fa1dfa37796f)
M
Marc,
Thanks for generous support............... would definitely be interested in seeing some more shots of the "green/mossy" crane although very tempted to do my interpretation of the first one you posted.
Probably more stupid than brave if you are going to have ago at this one as well!
Judging ........... may be very tempted as I for one like your critiques, most people talk about positive criticism but few can do it and most of us, including me, don't really enjoy receiving it.
But if you take a deep breath (and don't automatically go into defensive mode) and then think about what has been said and why then it is very useful in focusing on what can be improved the next time, or trying a different technique which surely has to be the reason for sharing your work and not just to receive praise !
Anyway lets see what develops ... its 3 months you can do it ... or is it the implication behind a closing date that one has to finish ::)
Sorry Marc, you asked
The challenge looks quite interesting...and tempting, but I think the timeframe is too short for me for the one I was considering, as it has enough detail to slow me down. ....but just in case.......I see that the wagon dimensions are scaled for GN15.....would it be the same dimension for 1/35? (not relatively scaled, but the same 54 x32 or whatever that was?).......would 1/35 even be allowed?.....
Marc, me I enjoy looking at quality models in whatever scale so build it in 1/35 as thats what you are comfortable with .. at the moment.
54 mm x 32 mm or 2 1/8" x 1 /1/4" very approximate ......... do you want to use same dimensions? its your model let you make the decision ......... there are enough rules in the world without me adding anymore :)
Some nice crane work guys! Great prototype pics too.
I'm sure enjoying all these photos of small cranes! Thanks for posting them.
Rick, your stiff leg derrick is a beauty!
Question for you all, been studying a magnified version of this photo
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FCrane%2520Project%2Fcrane2.jpg&hash=eb025f6ae751f1479486f55529707508a5237d20)
The wagon behind the crane, any thoughts as to what it is ? generator , compressor thinking along these lines as they appear to be "cooling air/cooling vents at the front.
Anybody got any other bright ideas
DUDE! thats a beer cooler!
I can't remember . Have we seen this one before ?
Thanks Marc,
I built that 2-3 years back when I built the iron works building.
The buildings mostly sit out 24-7-365 some of the more fragile detail parts and figures
are only set out when operating, open house, club meetings, etc. the crane and crates fall into that catagory so don't have the weathered look.
If I remember correctly the crane is 100% scratch except for pullys,bolts with nuts, and a couple of the gears on the crab. All the metal fitmets are brass and the blocks are sheet lead, that was to have the weight to hold the lines taunt. The crab design as well as the derrick design were taken from an old AH&D catalog.
Later
Rick Marty
Thanks for the info Marty. Must be delicate work placing, removing and storing those fine details.
M
Gordon,
Here are two images of drawings (found on them web), that might be of use for the guys doing the GnB Challenge. They show/are std. gauge cranes, but the concepts could easily be scaled to Gn.
M
Gordon,
Here are the rest of the shots I have on that mossy crame..as well as one that shows that wierd car behind it that one of the guys on GnB asked about.
M
The other 2 pics.
M
Quote from: gfadvance on November 19, 2009, 11:02:01 AM
The wagon behind the crane, any thoughts as to what it is ? generator , compressor thinking along these lines as they appear to be "cooling air/cooling vents at the front.
Maybe it's a rolling "kazi" what will the air vents & all... a more "private" arrangement than the ones that Gordon built...
Paul
Thanks for the additional info Marc,
To return the favour here is another one of the "green crane" that one of the guys on Gnatterbox posted
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FCrane%2520Project%2FFrogcran.jpg&hash=24f26c4717c81d40e66a357cc600b5c047b90381)
Marc,
Tom Yorke carried out an excellent drawing of this crane :
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thomasayorke.com%2Fimages%2Fcrane.jpg&hash=380963d3fe98b3945d989a79a3804cf56356c22a)
Gordon: Thanks for the pic, a good additional view for info.
Franck: Thanks for the plans...I was not aware that Tom had done one.
Thought this might be of interest......while waiting for some stuff to dry, I decided to play around with some Milliput and try to make some draped fabric (rags, tarp).....now figure guys have been doing this forever...but this is my first time...thought I better get some practice since I will likely be needing some amongst and over the clutter.
Basically they are made of two compund Milliput rolled out on a glass plate. To keep it from sticking to the glass or the steel rod (roller), I used talcum powder.
(Sorry, image is a bit over exposed)
M
I also had some time to play around with a gantry crane that has always fascinated me. I found the top image below on the web some time ago. If I recall correctly it is in France somewhere.
I had some leftover track sections from a Trumpeter 1/35 scale RR kit, and thought they would be a good starting point. Unfortunately the Trumpeter track pieces are miserable to work with, as they have a deep ejector mark every 1.5 cm or so down the entire length of the track on one side.
The height of the piece at this point is taller than what I would use (will be cut to fit the scene...probably somewhere around the figures waist height.) Thewierd blobby thing part way up on the left post is what in the image appears to be a pretty ugly/heavy weld seam....I used some stretched sprue, a Mission-Models micro chisel and liquid solvent to mimmic the weld.
I honestly don't know if I will have use or a place for this in the end scene....but I have been wanting to build it, so I figure I might as well get it out of my system. ;)
M
Even your micro-models are inspirational. Disgusting! -- Russ
Nice work, and that gantry crane is another cool prototype! I like the buildings behind them too.
Something that I find is often missing in scenes are things are the simple ubiquitous things like loose nuts, bolts, and washers.......real shops have bins , cans, and boxes of these....they are found on the floor/ground, in corners, laying on wall framing blocking, in tool boxes, etc........yet few modelers ever show them.....
...so in hopes of not having this mistake myself, I decided to order some pieces that I thought would be perfect for this purpose from Vectorcut.com (DaKra here in the forum)......though they are listet as HO, I found them to be perfect for 1/35 and quite suitable even for 1/48.
The photo below shows the Vectorcut fret, next to one I had readily on hand from MIG Productions (Aber, and Eduard also make PE sets...but the MIG one is by far better because there is no need to cut the pieces from the fret and the etching is sharper)......this post is not meant to compare the Vectorcut to the MIG set as they are not the same thing/and material....but merely to show size and options. For me each has its unique uses/applications. (Note: In my image the VC fret seems a bit blurry...this is caused by my camera for some reason...a good closeup image can be seen at the bottom of VC's page here: http://www.vectorcut.com/accessories.htm (http://www.vectorcut.com/acces-sories.htm)
The VC fret/parts scales out to .015" thick.....so about 1/2" in 1:35 scale, and 3/4" in 1/48. (The MIG Scales out to .007" thick) These would work in larger scales as well, since nuts and bolts come in all sizes ;)
What really intrigued me when I saw the VZ part was the fact that there were washers and nuts with holes in them....so they could be used for exactly what I need.....or they could be used with styrene rod, to make loose/hanging/protruding bolts and washers, or nuts and washers that have long bolt shafts protruding from them.....more details often not modeled.
...anyhow.....just thought this might be of interest. I will definitely be ordering more.
MR
Quotea good closeup image can be seen at the bottom of VC's page here: http://www.vectorcut.com/accessories.htm
Weird. Your link brings up a not found error, but Google brings up exactly the same URL which works fine....
Thanks for pointing these out. The extra thickness of the lazerboard should minimise the 2D look that etchings suffer from. Paypal duly instructed.
I just took a close look at the VectorCut site and discovered a veritable treasure trove of swell goodies I hadn't realized were there. Then I looked at the HO street scene again and remembered DaKra never answered my question about how he created the brick walls for his structures. Laser? Enquiring minds want to know .... -- Russ
Here are three hand trucks for some clutter.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2604%2F4118116005_4bed0e5121_b.jpg&hash=19187fa431f097fd72c55c42cc5b5a1f19116542)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon,
Those are great...I have been collecting catalog cuts of this stuff, so i can build one.....and your "real" photo is a great help. Thanks! I especially like the center one.
I have a number of odd carts, dollies, buggies and such that I plan to build as part of this.
MR
OK , deep breath here .......... have never posted anything of my work here but as my latest creation was inspired by the crane pictures that Marc posted it was only right that you should at least see the results :o
My nervousness is based on a number of facts, this is not a scale replica - although I have always attempted to build to scale and is an amalgamation of some of the cranes Marc posted plus a little bit of my own imagination. The work itself is not anywhere near the level that I normally see posted here but it is better than my previous work , it was fun and I learnt a few things which hopefully will help to improve my modelling .
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FCrane%2520Project%2FCraneproject070.jpg&hash=d7bab68fdfb5f67b10c173bbe0b0959482353c66) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FCrane%2520Project%2FCraneproject071.jpg&hash=0fa0d3ee0d60ec572004f7ffd84219c3cecc6f1c)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FCrane%2520Project%2FCraneproject065.jpg&hash=cb6f081cc8773077bf831ee1851ddf7c0e785f05) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FCrane%2520Project%2FCraneproject060.jpg&hash=5cd2b373621b9b559a89a4f586a6866d47e59d73)
It is built for a GN15 layout, for any of you new to that description that is 1/24 scale on track representing 15" gauge .......... which accounts for the narrowness of the model.
Will leave with it with you and thanks Marc for posting the pictures which gave me the inspiration
Let me be the first, but I am sure I won't be the last to say, it is fantastic! It looks great, scale or not, I believe there is no scale when it comes to these types of things. Either it is a very small crane with a 1 ton capacity, or it's a medium with a two ton plus capacity. It is very realistic and very clean. Great Job!
Gil
Hey Gordon,...so glad you are posting this here.
I think that crane is really great. I really like this. Nicely built and imagineered/interpreted. I like all the scale and quality of the detailing, and even your drilling out of the outrigger tubes. Did you use stretched sprue for the cable details?......and I am amazed at how fast you built this.
The only detail...and this is maybe really nitpicky...but would look cool in your scale, which is why I bring it up, would be to do the cotter pins with their chains on the drilled outrigger supports....these could be bent from wire, or you could probably use a set of HO diesel handrail stanchion parts....then some small chain.
I am definitely going to save these pics in my files. Your project has now inspired me ever more so to build one.
Please show us your progress on the painting as well.
MR
Here are two images of a old mixer
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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2746%2F4156134357_487786827e_b.jpg&hash=00cebba117312724041d89f2ece2170152f92f3f)
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon,
Now that is sweet. Great job on the details.
Rick Marty
Very nice looking crane Gordon. The proportions and level of detail seem just right, everything is very crisp and clean. The hand-cranked turning mechanism is particularly interesting. I am curious about how it's moved around though. I noticed it has wheels and axles underneath, but is it meant to be pushed around by man-power or is there going to be some form of extended coupler arrangement so it can be pulled along by Lister or something similar? Looking forward to seeing how you finish and weather it...
Paul
Thanks for the kind words and for the encouragement.
Marc,
good idea about the cotter pins & chain.......... I'm not happy with these supports anyway, wall of plastic tube is too thick so going to redo them in brass, probable with the 3 legged arrangement you see in car axle stands and will incorporate pins and chain.
The cables are plastic micro rod .... bit of a hang-up with me as cord/string never seem to have the right weight to hang right, can be hairy, etc - their not perfect, probable the main cable is still too large in diameter , but next time ?
Paul,
yes it will have a small critter to move it around, along with a flat wagon for tools etc, and maybe a little wagon, similar to some of the ones Marc has already posted, for the workers to brew their tea in ........... it will need a an extended "bar coupling" sorry not really a rail-person but seem to remember you call them a "rooster bar"?.
I will probable need to cut access holes in top plate so that the is bar can be fitted with into coupling pocket with pin?
Its going on the shelf for a couple of weeks so I can come back to it fresh and sort out some bits I'm not happy with and then of to the paint shop - if it comes out? will post an update.
Apologises Marc for jumping into your thread, was not up to posting a new topic with first model here
Gordon,
FWIW, I like the solid steel plate bottoms on the legs...very prototypical, they seem more sturdy and stronger than the 3 point car type. The user might even do so far as to place wood blocks/timbers under them on soft or overy uneven ground.
I also liked that you used styrene instead if string....a wholly agree about string never looking right....I was just asking/wondering (too late at this point..but maybe for next time)...and not as a criticism....if it would be possible/worthwhile to diaginally roll the piece between a hard plate surface and some kind if file, to give it a bit of diagonal texture/detail, that would then help "imply" cable when painted, insofar as some highlights, and places for dirt/rust/grime to collect.
No such thing as hijacking "my thread"....and regardless, this is a thread about "bit's and pieces" by anyone.
MR
GF -- Very nice work on that crane!
GB -- I like pics of the cement mixer.
I decided to get started on the cement mixer idea....
I was too lazy to deal with making the drum entirely from scratch, and I wanted to make sure that it would be quite ridgid/durable, so I went on ebay and bought some toy cement trucks, from which i could possibly use the drums...since I had no idea which size the truck drums were in relation to what I needed, I bought several (all 4 trucks cost me about $10 total).
The truck on the left is from Matchbox, the other three are from a company called Yatming.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FDetail_Parts%2FMR_CementTrucks.jpg&hash=c757ff4ef099c2eb66aad528767ce837b2acae79)
I ended up using the drum from the Matchbox truck (the other drums will be saved for future projects...with some slight modification they would work for bouys in some scales).
The drum was shortened by about 1/2"; 1/8": from the open end, and 3/8 out of the middle; the reason for taking some out of the middle was in order to get the desired 32" scale diameter. A new straight section (a 1/16" thick ring to match the red plastic thickness) was then turned from 1" dia. acrylic rod. The 3 parts were than assembled using liquid cement. (The strange spots and what appear like defects are light reflections in the acrylic.)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FDetail_Parts%2FMR_CementMixer1.jpg&hash=b75658bc62f406663cb7fb0ad6c6c6ebb89dedeb)
...it's not much progress...but I figured I better post some form of modeling again, and also why I pulled out the lathe for the first time. ;D
MR
Off the loco...back to the mixer....
I took my influence from mixers that had the gear/ratchet cast into the rear of the lower shell of the mixer. The gear pattern was first drawn in CAD, then printed onto paper, which was cut-out and spray mounted onto the intended location. Using an Xacto, each line was scored through the paper into the plastic. The gear teeth were then made made using .010 styrene rod, which once dry was brushed with Mr. Surfacer, to fill the undercut, and to slightly fillet at the base of each tooth. Once dry, the Mr. surfacer was cleaned-up using a Micro-Mark fiberglass brush.
A .010" styrene band was wrapped around the center, (to simulate detailing found on the prototype) and detailed with weld seams. The lower/gear half was then given a light "cast" texture using Mr. Surfacer diluted in liquid cement, and stippled with a brush.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FDetail_Parts%2FMR_Mixer4.jpg&hash=5befc15def911d61006721449232edc868c6b5d9)
The front edge and interior of the drum was textured by stippling on Mr. Surfacer 500. This texture will help represent dried on cement on the final model.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FDetail_Parts%2FMR_Mixer5.jpg&hash=47f1c5028f7c364a7c2adc9575717da2c812ee44)
MR
That little mixer is going to be WAY-cool, Marc. The dried concrete and gear teeth look great.
How did you do the welded seam??
Dumb question here, what do you thin your Mr. Surfacer with? And I know that there is a 500, 1000, and 1200 can you spray any of these without thinning? (Is there any advantage to using the spray cans, other than ease of clean up) and would I want to? Is Mr. Surface lacquer based, or is it other? If I want to use dissimilar paints must I use a clear coat first? Would that be varnish, do you have a preference?
Thanks inquiring dumb minds want to know; D
Gil
Mr Surfacer handicapped, among other things
A very clever and fine bit of modeling, Professor. It is a microcosmic epitome of what this site is about. -- Russ
microcosmic epitome
yep.......now the drive gears ;D
:o amazing work Marc!
Philip
Very neat solution to making the gear on the mixer shell Marc...
Paul
Thanks guys. Doing the gear in this manner was inpired by wathing all the stuff that Gordin Birrell and Ken, do with making styrene parts.
Ken,
Not proud of these seams....the first few came out to big and bulky. For expediency I used stretched sprue, that was step cut with a Misssion Models round head micro chisel, and the softened smoothed with liquid cement (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=5.0 (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=5.0)).......I wish I had used milliput for it, as it would probably have come out better. Sprue ususlly works, but last night it was not cooperating. :-\...lickily the bad stuff will be down from the viewrs POV, and hopefully just get lost in the rest of the scene/clutter.
MR
Gill,
For my primer coats, I really prefer to use Mr. Surfacer in a can (no Prince Albert Jokes please ;))....It goes on beautifully and dries really tight. I know there are guys that use the stuff from a jar, thin it and then airbrush it...but I look into those jars, and the gooey appearance of the stuf...and then at my nice clean airbrush, and decide against it....why go through all that hassle if the can works equally as well (though it is a bit harer on/in tight small areas). BTW. if you have noticed I don't always really do a completely opaque coat of primer.....it often is still slightly translucent....I basically just try to use it to somewhat even out the material colors, and provide a surface that the paint will adhere to.
If you want to use the Mr. Surfacer in a jar, I suggest you thin it with Mr. Thinner or Mr. Color Thinner (no I'm not joking...that's what the stuff is called).
I do not know what the base is for Mr Surfacer....I don't read Japanese....but it is definitely seems to be some form of petroleum type product (though since it is available in the EU, I am not quite sure what type).
I personally do not use any barrier coats between dissimilar paints....I have not found the need....BUT....that said, when I do, I tend to shoot the oil based (like Floquil) as the lower/bottom coat, and then the Acrylic, Tamiya, Vallejo or Model Color as the top/upper layers. I have not done the reverse.....and I see/envision that there could be issues doing so (which a barrier layer would not help), and that is due the fact of differential shrinking and expansion of the paints.....paints like Floquil tend to dry really hard and ridgid, whereas acrylics tend to inherantly be more flexible....thus if you spray a hard paint over the flexible, you could easily end up with spider cracking, or "crackling".
My personal reason I often floquil as the bottom coat is merely because the colors I use/prefer (Roof Brown, or Oxide Red) are only made by Floquil. (no I do not like the acrylic version/shades of these from Polly-Scale...I actually quite dislike Polly-Scale paints).
I find that the disparate paints issue, and barrier coats is MUCH more critical in regards to your eventual weathering materials/approach...because this is where it can get messy and ruin yur paint work.
MR
tend to shoot the oil based (like Floquil) as the lower/bottom coat, and then the Acrylic, Tamiya, Vallejo or Model Color as the top/upper layers. I have not done the reverse.
So then Mr. Surfacer is compatible with Floquil? I thought that Floquil is lacquer based. I am confused a little, when you do your washes they are oil base over lacquer? Sorry I am just trying to understand, being a all acrylic guy, I just want to make sure I don't screw up.
thanks
Gil
Gil, Floquil is not lacquer based. I use turp for thinner/cleaner with it.
Marc, Just curious, for what reason do you not like the PolyScale paints?
Gil,
I have had no problems with Floquil over Mr. Surfacer...I don't do use this combo often...and (at least for the mil. models, and non resin pieces) I have found that you can use the Floquil color AS the primer (though I suggest letting it cure for 5 days or so before spraying over it). Some of he mil guys have tried thinning the Tamiya acrylic paints with Tamiya Lacquer thinner (yellow cap bottle), and used it as the primer coat as well. In the end, the primer is really just there to provide an even base color, and a stable surface that the following layers can evenly and properly adhere to.
I generally do all my filters, washes, fading etc, using oil based paints. The rule is basically: oil based paints over acrylics....OR...if over oil based color layer, only after sealing with an acrylic barrier coat (ie satin or flat).
You can use Guache over oil based paints without a barrier coat, though you will need intemed. barrier coats if working with layers of guache, as it tends to reactivate). You can use oils over Guache without a barrier coat...though you need to be carefull, and know what you are doing, as the oils will/can readily bleed and spread through the Guache (just like they can on a matte acrylic surface).
You can use Guache over acrylics too....but as always when working wet over acrylics you dont want to work the colors too wet for too long, as this will start to soften/affect the acrylic layer below.
There basically seem to be two camps in the Mil. models field re. clear coats over acrylics prior to weathering....those that do, and those that don't (and then of course both occasionally do or don't depending on the circumstance ;) )...there is no absolute right...it comes down to personal preference, experience, what effects you are after, and what the specific application/condition requires.
NOTE: A lot of what happens to paints over eachother also depends on how you are spraying: how thick, how much thinner, what kind of thinner, how much dry time between coats, how much cure time between disparate paints, etc.. Most of the paint jobs I see on the RR forums tend to be applied WAY to thick and heavy, and in too few coats....it's as if they are applying a "paint condom".
NOTE #2: I don't give a rats-ass about what some people say....do not use alcohol, windshield wiper fluid, etc. to thin your paints...this might work fine if you are doing a shitty paint condom type job....but if you really want to get a nice clean, crisp, sharp finish, and you want to be be sure of what happens when applying multiple layers and disparate paints.....use the freaking mfr's thinner....you can use the other crap to clean the airbrush afterwards...but to mix the paint...use the proper thinner. It's one less thing that can possibly go wrong. I don't understand why people whine about the "cost" of a specific thinner...it only takes a few drops, or eye dropper full, to mix into the paint needed for an entire model......how much can that possibly cost????!!! What the hell are they needing gallons of thinner for???? (Yes, there are a select few guys that can pull of good consistent finishes with the alc. or wiper fluid......but they are the extremly rare minority.)
MR
Quote from: chester on December 16, 2009, 04:34:20 PM
Marc, Just curious, for what reason do you not like the PolyScale paints?
Chester,
I find them too thick, both the carrier material and the actual pigment, I find them too inconsistent when trying to get a dead flat finish, and I feel that they give poor coverage when shot in thin coats, and they do not have the same ability/quality as Tamiya or Vallejo to really "suck down" onto the surface and around details. Lastly I think their color range is pretty bad/mediocre. They are pretty much just barely above craft paints in my book.
MR
Gee, I didn't know that Mr. Surfacer wouldn't work in my airbrush, so I just put it in there and painted away. Since I didn't know, it worked just fine. Did run the air pressure about 5 psi higher than normal. Put Floquil right over the top no problem. Cleaned the gun with both lacquer thinner and that new biodegradable stuff.
John
John,
Mr. Surfacer works fine in an airbrush.....I personally don't care for spraying via airbrush if I can avoid it, because I am too lazy to deal with thinning it properly, and then cleaning it out of the airbrush. ....especially so since I have about spray 6 or more unopened cans of Mr. surfacer 500, 1200, and Mr. Resin primer just sitting in my cabinet. :)
MR.
Marc,
My point was that I didn't thin it. I just ran it through a filter as I do all the paint in my airbrush and painted away.
John
Nothing earth shattering.
It seems like it took forever (at least 4 or 5 evenings) to get this frame painted to where I am somewhat happy with it. (Some of the subtlety and finer surface values don't come through in the images) That look of old steel with some dust and dirt, that has been sitting around a bit, is a real PIA...especially when there is nothing....no color or other material.... to play it off of. :-\
The frame is the one from earlier in this thread. Base color was mixed using Tamiya "Hull Red", "Black", & "Yellow". Weathering was done using a mixture of Guache, MIG & CMK pigments, & Abt.502 oils.
For now I will call it done...but I may come back at a later date and ad some more detail, such as grease around the bearings, and possible some heavier "dust/dirt" in a few areas on the lower lip of the side sill, though that may have to wait till I decide on the final setting this will be in.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FDetail_Parts%2FMR_Frame1.jpg&hash=2b0983973bcc0943a0e1a4eb8fb38f0209877887)
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MR
Any effort that can transform bare white plastic into something that convinces me it is an iron vehicle that's been in the elements for years is pretty earth shattering. -- Russ
Looks good to me, Marc.
Hi Marc,
its looking good.
By the way Mr Surfacer can be diluted with MEK for airbrushing. Have been using it as a primer on brass for a while with very good results. it's main benefit is far less chipping on corners & edges compared to normal acrylic primer.
have fun
Bernard
Looks good to me! I know what you mean about the coloring; I just did some rusty metal pieces in a pile-looks OK, but with everything rusty it is kind of blah. Once set in place as you say, I am sure some contrast pieces can be found.
Hello, all -
"Mr. Surfacer" is a new material/technique for me. I assume it is some sort of primer/filler/texturing finish.Can one of you point me to a post/thread/site where it is discussed...
What is it? How is it used?
Advantages/Disadvantages?
Results? Examples?
Sources for on-line purchase?
Carlo
Thanks Guys!
Carlo:
If you look back through all my projects here you will see that I use MR Surfacer for primer on all of them. On some parts that re resin, metal or delrin, I may also use MR Resin Primer....which as far as I can see is simply a more aggressive version of the MR Surfacer. I find MrS. to be a superior primer, over ANYTHING else I have used (Tamiya comes as close second)....if applied properly...which is not hard at all to do...when dry it shrinks down to the surface and does not hide any detail whatsoever. Mr. Surfacer is made by 'Gunze-Sangyo' (often just called 'Gunze'), who also have a whole line of paints and other associated products.
MrS. comes in 3 different weights or "fine-ness" (I know, not a word); 500, 1000, and 1200......the higher the number, the more fine the pigment/filler material. The heavier will help a bit if you need to hide or fill some fine sanding marks.
MrS is available in 2 sizes of spray cans, or in jars. I have both, but primarily use the spray cans (1000 or 1200) for all my work, and have never had a problem. The MrS in the jars, as Bernard mentioned, needs to be thinned for spraying through an airbrush....I have not tried MEK like Bernard, but have used the thinner made for it and their paints called simply "Mr Thinner". I tend to use the MrS from the jar (500) primarily for creating a cast iron type surface texture or for spot filling of small surface imperfections.
I have found ZERO disadavantages with this product.
Most good online military and sci-fi modeling shops such as; Great Models ( http://www.greatmodels.com ), Jadar Hobbies ( http://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?currency=USD&language=en ), Mission Models ( http://www.missionmodels.com/home.php ) , Hobby-Link, ( http://www.hlj.com )....etc. It is also available on Ebay....I once bought a case (12 cans) of it there from a shop in Hong-Kong for half the price of the cheapest online shop...and that included shipping.
HTH.
Marc.
BTW:...while we are on the subject of indispensible and IMO, great products for surfacing/finishing your model....the best putty out there is the Tamiya "Standard Putty" .......I have not found better for scale plastic models, and I have worked with everything from super fine automotive glazing/surfacing putty, to the green/red Squadron stuff (which is really absolute crap). This is available from the same shops above, and ebay. (bought half a dozen tubes from the same HK shop....still on my first tube ;D)
EDIT: this may sound like a stupid an unecessary comment, but just in case someone that reads this did not know.....when sanding your plastic or resin models and putty filled areas....always "wet sand"....it will cut faster, cleaner and with less surface damage (if you use the correct sandpaper grit of course)......and as an added benefit, it will aslo cut down on the dust/particulate matter floating around.
Not stupid at all. I have never wet sanded a puttied part. I shall give it a try.
Thanks for the comment, Marc. I never think of doing that, and this results in a surface less neat that I sometime would want.
While I had all the stuff out I figured I would goof around with another misc. detail part. This will be a gate consisting of a chain strung between two posts made from embedded rail pieces.
I used some plastic rail pieces from a Trumpeter armored rail car kit (they sell the rail and ties as a seperate item as well).
The piece on the left what it looks like after it was primed with Mr. Surfacer, then base coated with a mix of Tamiya "Hull Red/Black/Yellow", this was followed by a rough AB application of Vallejo #820 "Off White", The area below the white then received a random sponge application of LifeColor #UA-702 "Rust"..and some blending with a mix of Pigments (CMK #SD-02 "Dark Rust", and MIG #P230 " Old Rust")
The piece on the right is after the application of chipping (Vallejo #802 "German Camo Black Brown"), and some pin washes of ABT-502 oils (#070 "Dark Rust", and #080 "Wash Brown")
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FDetail_Parts%2FMR_GatePosts1.jpg&hash=94d33296a24506140ba8e8955d45919e7737ca43)
...next, chipping the other post, and making the chain and sign.
MR
Very convincing...... now stop these photo's of the real thing and show us your modeling efforts ;) ::) ::)
Jacq
I agree with Jacq. You are messing with us. I am almost certain I saw those rail sections in your backyard last time I was at your house. Unless they were your cats. -- Russ
Marc, so the chipping is adding a layer of a rust brown over the previous finishes? You are not actually "chipping" any previous coats off ???
I hope that's not a silly question. I like that effect after looking at so many old bridges and industrial thingies.
John
John,
No silly question.....you are correct...the chips are painted on over the white....properly used (which is easy to do with such good paint) Vallejo will lay down really nice and tight to the surface, so you can't really tell that it has been painted over the color below....especially once additional steps of weathering process has been done/added.
MR
Nice work on the "chipped" paint!
Thanks Marc. Gosh darn that rail end just looks so right even though it is not in context.
I might try that chipping technique full size on the wife's '88 Caravan, on the opposite side from the one the deer hit four years ago. At least it would look uniform.
John
Spencer and Chucks tools & boxes of stuff inspired this one last night.
Box is made of .005 styrene. Hammer is a 1/48 scale white metal casting. Wrenches are laser cut pieces from VectorCut. Screwdriver is from the Tamiya VW repair kit. All items were painted/finished with Vallejo acrylics, Abt-502 Oils, and MIG & CMK weathering pigments.
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Marc
Satisfactory. -- Russ
Very nice. The definition of colours is impressive.
Quote from: Frederic Testard on May 03, 2010, 12:47:02 PM
Very nice. The definition of colours is impressive.
Thanks. The definition is easy....you just have to paint and weather evey piece seperately before gluing it in the box. ;)
MR
Yes Marc, but I was particularly thinking of the screwdriver. It looks like a really small part and I don't think you've made it out of three sub-assemblies.
Nice Marc, especially the metal finish on the open end wrenches. But who keeps tools like that in a little metal box? ;)
Marc, Man you been on a roll......been busy......the finish on the tools & box looks good. Craig
Marc, like Frederic says, that screwdriver looks like a wooden handle, ferrule and blade. See the extracted section below. I am amazed by the black ring that separates wood from the metal like oil and sweat have accumulated there.
Regale us with your tale of how you used a gnat's eyelash paintbrush with a fine carbon nanotube pigment grind to do that.
Seriously, what is the scale again?
John
Thanks guys.
Ok John and Frederic.....I give in ;)...here goes...
On these old wooden screwdrivers, there always seems to be a small space or gap between the ferrule and the wider portion of the handle, and this was going to serve me well in trying to define the paint colors. Before I began painting, I took an Xacto and ran it very lightly around the the joint area, to create just the slightest groove (too much and you either cut the tip off or make it too fragile). Then came a coat of Mr Surfacer primer (from a can), and an AB application of a dark rust brown base color. The handle was then painted with the Vallejo acrylic, using a 0/10 brush....I painted the orange red, just to the base of the handle area...not around to the groove...so there was a slight area/line of the dark brown remaining there between the orange and the grooved line. I then used Mr. Color/Gunze "Aluminum" (this is an oil based paint), and with an 0/18 brush flowed/painted the color onto the ferrule...this is where that groove came in...because these silver paints tend to somewhat flow/disperse on a surface, the lip on the groove or the groove itself would hopefully act as a stop/edge......then I would have a nice clean line, and only a small sliver of dark brown between the silver and the orange...which would act as a shadow...or as John noted...collected dirt and grime. Finally the shaft/blade of the screwdriver was randomly rubbed with MIG "Gun Metal" pigment...I didn't want the whole part to be the same color, because I found that these screwdrivers tended to rust/oxidize in a somewhat blotchy pattern. Lastly some black pigment was applied to the wood handle area to simmulate contact from dirty/greasey hands.
....so there you have it....that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Below is a quick snappy of the box next to Chuck's magic penny. Scale is 1/35.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FDetail_Parts%2FMR_ToolboxPenny.jpg&hash=52effeed4bdcffe6c8c32d355ef870f68e35b917)
MR
QuoteChuck's magic penny
Now I get it....that's the way Chuck and you keep fooling us.. :o ;)
That penny is two or three times largere than the real thing.
convincing work... do you use magnifying glasses / glas to do this type of modeling ?
Jacq
Very neat Marc, looking at my old tool box in the garage think you pinched some of my tools.
Would be interested in seeing some pics of how you actually hold these small items to paint, do you use d/sided tape on the side that won't be seen , pin vices, etc ?
Thanks
Just catching up, great details Marc!
I was drawn to the hammer's handle finish; looks like the shellac has worn down where it is grasped and somewhat flakey. I'd like to know how that was done if you have time.
-Marty
Very nice treatement of the VectorCut wrenches, they look like metal. Your methodical approach shows what a big difference it makes when you treat each individual piece of clutter as a model unto itself, instead of a filler item plopped onto the model as an afterthought.
Dave
Quote from: jacq01 on May 04, 2010, 04:24:20 AM
Now I get it....that's the way Chuck and you keep fooling us.. :o ;)
That penny is two or three times largere than the real thing.
Jacq
Yah, I'm figuring that penny is at least 12" in diameter... ;) Very nicely done Marc. I was thinking you must have pinched those from my shop when I wasn't looking...
Paul
I think the wrenches are Campgnolo headset spanners from the '50s, like the ones in the old bike shop I used to manage. They must be from Marc's bicycle tool kit. And the hammer's for whacking cotter pins out of his old Nervar cranks.
I can almost feel the wooden screwdriver handle in my palm. That tool box is more cool than some large layouts I've seen in magazines.
John
I like the grimy, greasy look, just like they'd been used by a real mechanic with grimy, greasy hands.
Looks good! Nice little taste of color.
Now I know where I left that penny!
Chuck, it's time for another visit to the corner. -- Russ
Thanks again guys.
Marty: Here's the finishing process on the hammer and the screwdriver handles...HTH. On the hammer (a white metal casting), I lightly ran a Micro-Mark wire pencil down the length to give it just the faintest hint of grain....this almost dissapears to the eye once the Vallejo beige color is applied....but is then again very lightly brought out when the Abt-502 brown oil paint is dry brushed over the surface....and the black and grey pigments used to show the grease sits into the valleys. On the screwdriver it was just a matter of pulling a soft brush through the orange color (the length of the handle) right as it was drying (sort of like a bad paint job).....this not only creates a bit if surface texture, but also allows the dark base coat to slightly peek through in areas.
Dave: The wrenches are a really good product to begin with...so not much that can be done to screw them up.....only wish the company aslo made some adjustable wrenches, and....... ;) ;D ;D On hinsight I could probably have slightly darkened the ends a bit more...so the center portion wear the hand wears away the uxidation more, was the shiny area.....but then they might have dissapeared into the dirt/grime of the box and other parts too much. [for anyone interested, they were colored by painting the a dark rustish brown, and then simply burnishing them with MIG "Gunmetal" pigment.]
John: CAMPY!!!....heaven forbid....heresy!.....I believe the word you were looking for was S-H-I-M-A-N-O ;) ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 07, 2010, 02:29:06 AM
John: CAMPY!!!....heaven forbid....heresy!.....I believe the word you were looking for was S-H-I-M-A-N-O ;) ;D ;D ;D
SHIMANO... boo, hiss.... CAMPY all the way in this house ;D ;D ;D
Paul
Paul, apparently Shimano has caught up to and, in some areas, surpassed Campagnolo. Pro riders generally feel each has merits and express only minor preferences. I guess the same is true of most frames. As an old six-day rider I used to work out with once said, "Ya still have to push 'em."
This, of course, has nothing to do with modeling or with Marc's toolbox. But since several of us here are racing bike nuts, I thought I'd toss it in.
Now back to our regularly scheduled programming.
Russ
Russ:
I suspect you're right. When I was racing, Shimano was strictly bottom end of the market stuff. As a confirmed old-school cyclist tho, I'll stick with my Campy suite. It served me well during my years as a licensed racer. Besides, can't afford to replace any of that gear these days. I need to find a source here to replace my tubulars (or sew-ups as they call them in these parts)... last time I looked I could only get them on special order. I'm hoping with the resurgence in interest over the past few years, I'll be able to locate a more convenient source. I'm thinking once we get settled into the new house, I plan to service and refit the bike. Our new home is in excellent cycling country, lot of serious riders use the mountain roads for training, so there are always plenty of bikes around. There was a pro tour stage through the village last year so I'm hoping we'll have front row seats for some upcoming stages.
Paul
Paul, when did you race? Remember Clement tires? Wolber white or Clement red glue? Arc-en-Ciel rims? Small flange vs high flange debates? Wayne Stetina? John Howard? What do you have for a bike?
Remember when everybody laughed when Shimano came along? And it broke in one season?
I could shift my Campy with a tap of my fist - bop - right into the selected gear. Then that Shimano index stuff got better. Then Campy tried it. Then I sold my Merckx with the Campy Croce d'Aune indexed crap because it was the worst shifting bike ever.
Now all our bikes have Shimano (except my vintage Trek with SunTour index- another story there).
Anyway Marc, Shimano had an odd curvy headset lock nut and race for a while so it can't be those wrenches. So they must be Park.
Thanks for obliging me everyone (especially Russ who is fanning the flames of old bike nut arguments),
John
As soon as I had a clue what was going on in racing bikes and had saved enough money, I bought a full Campy (Gran Sport) Olmo Deluxe. It was a fantastic machine in 1965. After about ten years and a lot of research I sold it and bought a new and rare racing bicycle few people had yet heard of, a 1973 Colnago Super, also full Campy (Super) with a drilled out chainwheel and crudely painted lug cutouts and some engraved nonsense on the handlebar stem (Cinelli, of course). I still have it. By the way, Clement 10 ounce tubulars were the ONLY way to go. And nobody wore a helmet to train. In a race, we wore those lightweight leather rib helmets.
I remember the large vs. small flange hub debate. I ordered custom wheels: Fiamme red label rims and Campagnolo large flange hubs. Contrary to the contemporary wisdom they were not too stiff.
In those days, normal people didn't ride racing bikes or wear cycling gear; it was a poorly understood subculture. Today even out of shape dorks on bikes with training wheels wear racing outfits.
Today, were I a serious racer, I'd probably buy an American carbon fiber frame and, most likely, Shimano components. Times change.
Russ
I love my Shimano fishing reels.
(heading for the crowded corner)
John:
Boy you're bringing back lots of memories. I raced Senior Mens then Veterans Class in the early through mid-eighties when I lived in upstate New York. I was invited to compete in the Veterans Worlds in Belgium in, I believe, 1986 but couldn't afford to go which was something of a disappointment. Road racing and time trials were my specialties, I didn't like criterium racing at all. I had to retire from racing in 1987 essentially due to health problems. I had developed asthma and though I was able to compensate and train and race at a somewhat diminished level, the medication I needed to take was a USCF banned substance. I tried going without the meds, but it was getting increasingly risky so I was left with no option but to retire.
I have a custom-built Colnago with Campy suite, small flange hubs, bottom bracket, crank, derailleurs, Cinelli stem, bars and seatpost. No indexed shifting for me, I'm strictly analogue and old school. I always new exactly where I was on the free-wheel without having to look and the Campy gear was so precise and responsive I never had problems changing gears or bouncing the chain along gear teeth. I switched to Modolo side pull brakes, Mavic clip-on pedals and built-up the wheels myself with Ambrosio Synthesis Super Pro rims. I still have my wheel truing stand that I modified to hold a couple of dial indicators for extra fine adjustments. I used to run Vittoria tubulars, mostly because the local shop kept them in stock. In fact the bike still has my last set of tires on it, though they have rotted away. It's going to be a job getting those off. I remember spending long evenings repairing tubulars when I couldn't afford to buy a new tire. That was always an adventure trying not to introduce a twist into the tire when sewing-up the casing. I used to use the red rim cement but by the mid-eighties had found a double-stick tape developed for the purpose which was much easier to use and didn't require a lot of cleanup on the rim. I never had a tire roll off in a high speed corner, so it seemed to be pretty good stuff.
The bike's been hanging on either my shop or garage wall now for over twenty years and all it will need to get roadworthy again are new tires, brake pads and a general tune-up and lube, something I intend to do once I get all this PITA moving behind me. I still have all my racing gear including the leather hair-net helmet I used to wear, though it is showing its age... probably need to replace that with a modern lid. And as I've put on a pound or two since my racing days, I will probably have to replace the gear so as not to scare young children and inflame elderly ladies... ;) The hard part will be adjusting to my advanced years and generally decrepit condition once in the saddle. I'll have to keep reminding myself that the racing days are gone for good and I won't be able to tackle category climbs in the saddle like I used to. Used to love passing people with a breezy hello on a climb in the saddle while they were on their legs struggling just to keep moving forward...evil thing to do but so much fun ;D I also still have my wind-load trainer. That thing used to sound like a giant berserk vacuum cleaner when you got it wound up, but it was my only riding option during the upstate winter months. At the time we lived in a second-floor apartment and it used to drive the lady downstairs nuts ;D
Paul
Boy you guys are all really old-school ;) ;D....I think I might be able to find you some wooden rims ;) ;D ;D ;D
Sorry, I really prefer Shimano....I feel it delivers equal if not better shifting and quality than the more expensive Campy.....I know Campy is a few ounces lighter and a "classic" name, but in all my years of road and mountain riding I have never had a Shimano failiure...and that says a lot.....but one of the biggest reasons for staying with Shimano, is because Campy does not make any MTB stuff....and I like to stay with something when it works flawlessly.
My road ride is not as cool and retro stylish as you guys.....'Litespeed' Ti frame, 'Real' carbon wheels (soon to be changed out to 'DT Swiss'), Litespeed carbon fork, 'Easton' carbon seatpost, 'FSA' carbon bars, and an Ultegra/Dura-Ace component mix.
And yes...a bit red in the face from the climb....
Yes sir, old school and proud of it... ;D ;D Wooden rims, by all means. I'd love to find a set of old track bike wooden rims, they are things of beauty, not to ride on but just to display as objects. I remember seeing a track bike with wooden rims many years ago in a museum. They were absolutely wonderful constructions and made a huge impression on me.
However, old school or not, like Russ if I were a serious racer today, I'd be forking out for carbon, titanium and incredibilium components. To be competitive in any racing sport you have to exploit whatever technological advances available to you. At the time I was racing, my bike was hi-tech. Now, it's a classic. At one point several years ago I thought of selling it and went into a local bike shop when we lived at the coast to see if the shop would be interested in either buying the bike outright or putting it in on consignment. They said they couldn't sell it because it was too old, but would give me $50 for it. Because of his unbelievably insulting and disrespectful attitude I suggested he indulge in an anatomically impossible act. That experience convinced me that the bike held too much value for me, representing as it does a significant portion of my life, to ever sell it.
That's a good looking road bike you've got there Marc, but shouldn't you be riding it, not carrying it around on your shoulder... ;) ;D ;D... just saying...
Paul
I have a few years on Paul and I need to point out a flaw in your facts, Marc: We are not "old school". We are just OLD! -- Russ
Paul, get a real modern helmet if you get anything. Protect the only thing worth keeping. And, I raced in New England/NY 1978 to about 1984 for out local Coke bottler. Maybe we crossed paths? Sounds like you have a few years on me though.
Well boys, they have a 55+ age group for racing. I am still a few away but it is time to start training! Let's make a Westlake team. We can at least be a well-weathered and detailed group.
And Russ I would/will buy a Trek OCLV with the latest parts to race again, but I would love a Richard Sachs made for me with an old Super Record gruppo.
John
I think we need a Bike Talk forum section!
That is why they call the "old" steel frame racers "classic", John. What the new bikes have in technology the older ones, ca. 1965 - 1985, surpass in sheer elegance.
Sorry for going off topic, Chuck.
Russ
Quote from: Chuck Doan on May 11, 2010, 12:56:15 PM
I think we need a Bike Talk forum section!
Do we detect a touch of boredom creeping in here ?
Nick
Westlake Publishing Forum
Where past and present bike racing model builders come to chit chat.
Quote from: finescalerr on May 11, 2010, 01:36:31 AM
I have a few years on Paul and I need to point out a flaw in your facts, Marc: We are not "old school". We are just OLD! -- Russ
You do... I'm not sure of that, I thought I was the older fart of the two... ;)
Paul
Old fart racers learned how to spin and ride beautifully long before the classless wanna-be types bought their way in.
Speaking of model trains, at about 17 I had to make a choice- keep putting time and money into the HO layout (handlaid track etc) or get the Raleigh Pro and a license to race.
There were more girls in bike racing so the layout went.
John
.....and back to the modeling. ;D
I spent the last couple of days messing with cylindrical objects (and am really starting to hate that shape)....I have assembled and prepped 7 barrels, and these welding tanks. I was prodded to move forward by Dallas M's post on the Gnatterbox Forum of his welding cart and tanks. I see my scene at some point needing a jumble of discarded tanks, akin to something like the attached image at the bottom.
These tanks came from 2 different Italierie accessories sets. They are a real PIA to assemble, as the seem to want to continually split at the seams of the halves....I must have re glued and sanded these things at least 3 times each. (nect time I think I will fill the interior with some epoxy putty, that way when one handles them, they can't compress/flex and split, so easily).
The castings quality is OK...nothing great. The area I felt needed the most work was the tops and valve areas. The tank in the front right of the image is what the stock appearance is OOB, for the valve area. I went through and added some variety and detail using scavanged brass valve handles from PSC castings (the brass items), cross handle valves (the black items) from a Grandt-Line Porter detail set, and inline valve from Grandt line, and a hex-nut from VectorCut; other pieces were made from hex, rod, and strip styrene.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FDetail_Parts%2FMR_WeldingTanks1.jpg&hash=7b8a88e540b03e8ca3b79628d7c8e4909523619f)
The painting approach to these will be the HS method, but I am going to experiment with a new (for me) primer from Games Workshop/Citadel called "Chaos Black". This will hopefully save me a step of having to do a primer, and then an overall dark color, before applying various rust shades.
Marc
Do you ware that Swiss Jersey for loyalty to your motherland ???
Or is it to help the emergency crews find you faster? ;D
Gil
The reason I wear it is because everyone I ride with knows I wear that, so they always know me...that way they can hide from the a**-hole that's coming their way....unless of course I creep up from behind. ;D
It actually helps keep some of the retards in cars in this country away from me a bit when riding because they think I am with the fire department or a paramedic! ::) ::) ::)...no joke....I have been asked numerous times;....of course there are other morons that think I'm with the red-cross! ::)...again, no joke.......there really are way too many stupid people in this country.....if you were to wade into the world-knowledge pool of the average person here, you would barely get your ankles wet. You can't imagine how many times when I say I'm Swiss, the people respond by saying....."Oh, so can you/do you, speak any SWEDISH?" ....really!!!????...WTF!!!?????
And last but not least...it is the colors of Fabian "Fabulous" Cancellara.
Marc
Nice work on those tanks! The various valves and gauges really make a difference.
Never was a bike racer but spent all my teen years and most of early adulthood riding everywhere, out of necessity. Couldn't afford a car and public transit is worse than walking. I use to ride out to the mountains all the time, and even rode my bike out to the desert and back a couple times -- although I must admit I hitched rides in the back of some pickup trucks to save time on some of the uphill sections.
Marc,
feel I have to ask ........ do you have any trouble getting people to understand specific points you want to put across due to your strong diplomatic skills and obvious fear of upsetting people ;D
Anyway, like the cylinders look forward to seeing how you paint and finish them .......... a bit in awe as to the way you can not only find all these little extra bits you use but you know where they came from originally - must be something to do with clock making ancestors & yes I did think about a certain word in front of clock!
p.s. I hope the bottom of the cylinders have that slightly hollowed out look and are not flat!
Quote from: gfadvance on May 13, 2010, 12:06:14 AM
feel I have to ask ........ do you have any trouble getting people to understand specific points you want to put across due to your strong diplomatic skills and obvious fear of upsetting people ;D
....I was never much for being obtuse, or into the lets-all-feel-good-about-eachother-and-everything approach.....stating the facts/obvious as they are, saves everybody a lot of time and any potential problems from misinterpritation. ;D
Quotea bit in awe as to the way you can not only find all these little extra bits you use but you know where they came from originally
I have shelves and cabinets full of little boxes with bits ...I frequently buy entire kits, just because a couple of the parts could prove useful down the line....plus I am really lucky to have several good LHS's in the LA area where I can go and stare for hours at all the little packets of parts they have. ;D
Quotep.s. I hope the bottom of the cylinders have that slightly hollowed out look and are not flat!
You caught me on the hollowed-out :-X....they are not...I tried to add that detail using a Dremel, but the plastic is not thick enough to get any decent depth (wrecked one cylinder trying).....I have been considering turning some more cylinders on the lathe, or having a go at the PAP method.
Marc
Marc,
It works the other way around too, my wife who is Swedish, gets the same thing, "oh you are from Switzerland?" My 2 step kids, get even blanker looks from the rest of the kids in school when they say they are from Sweden.
Marc,
I think "rolling your own" cylinders would be quite easy and take less time (and have the correct bottoms)
I would suggest the correct diameter aluminum.
You would need to make two cutters with the appropriate curves but then it would take less than 5 minutes for each one.
You have the lathe, why not try it?
-Marty
Quote from: lab-dad on May 13, 2010, 06:33:41 AM
You would need to make two cutters with the appropriate curves......
-Marty
Very funny 'Brass-Boy".....everybody's a comedian. I am not Martha Stewart...I cannot just will shaped cutters out of the ether.
Marc
Nothing earth shattering....But I wanted to test out working with the Chaos Black primer, so I found a realy horrible barrel casting in an old RPM kit. Styrene strip was added to make it a "hoop barrel", and the side hole was drilled out then a MIG PE washer glued in place to give the lip/edge detail. The top edge was already bad from the casting..I just aggravated it a slight bit with the wire brush pencil and some liquid solvent stippling.
Since this was just an experiment, I took a 'no brainer' approach to the painting. Primed with the Citadel primer. Rust tones and white blotches were randomly sponged on using the Life-Color rust set. After about 3 mins of drying, a MIG blue filter was applied with a wide brush, dried with a hair dryer, the surface was then randomly dusted with a combination of MIG, Bragdons & CMK rust and black tones. This was then set in place by flowing on some turpentine. It would obviously still need some dust and such....but for a 15 min, no effort project, it seems OK....usefull for backround fill or being buried in the scenery...and something anyone can easily do with no special tools or skills.
MR
Cool Marc,
Looking at the picture I wouldn't have thought of a blue filter. But now that you mention it I do see it. Neat rusty effect.
Tom
The blue filter brings out a tone commonly found in rusty rolled sheet steel. It adds a believability that is difficult to pinpoint but looks great under the nice rust texture.
Your 15 minute no effort job is the result of hours of reading, gathering and experimenting. Don't brush off your talents so easily. Well done as always sir.
John
Use your Swedish much working as a paramedic for the Red Cross in the States?
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 13, 2010, 02:39:01 AM
Quotep.s. I hope the bottom of the cylinders have that slightly hollowed out look and are not flat!
You caught me on the hollowed-out :-X....they are not...I tried to add that detail using a Dremel, but the plastic is not thick enough to get any decent depth (wrecked one cylinder trying).....I have been considering turning some more cylinders on the lathe, or having a go at the PAP method. Marc
Fred H. and all -- Thanks for the info on Print-a-Part and Sketch-up ... thanks to Marc for the intro thread on Sketch-up ... one of these days, I'll sit down and "start" learning that stuff.
Meanwhile, here's a crude, simple-minded and extremely low-tech approach to the hollowed-out tank bottom that takes about as long as downloading Sketch-up ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bouldervalleymodels.com%2Fimages%2Ffsrr%2Ftanks-01.jpg&hash=08f0db4ded3b0c9e89ca33917d51def59f6902ad)
I had a couple extra Italeri tanks glued together but not painted yet .... drilled the bottom out of one ... close to the tank walls, then carved out by hand ... that part could be done more neatly by those inclined and/or walls can be thinned if desired ...
Stuffed the tank most of the way full with bits of paper towel (I did say this was low-tech!) ... mixed up a tiny bit of Magic Sculp (two-part, air-dry sculpting material like Milliput) ... pressed some of that in ... and looked around for small spherical objects. The marble was too big to make a noticeable dish in the bottom ... the Mardi Gras beads seemed about right. At which point, some drunken chicks stumbled by and :o ... oops, I digress ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bouldervalleymodels.com%2Fimages%2Ffsrr%2Ftanks-02.jpg&hash=c5b4f8c972de9f1902e49c58016fe2f87e29c372)
Wet the Magic Sculp ... dusted one of the beads with talc so it wouldn't stick ... then pressed it in. First attempt: tried scraping off the excess around the edges, but ended up disturbing the soft putty ... so repeated it and left the excess around the rim as shown. Will let that dry and sand off the excess tomorrow. Need a deeper dish? Use a smaller bead/ball/sphere, etc. Shallower dish ... figure it out! ;D
Took less time to do it then describe it ... so this might be a useful approach for low-tech guys like me and lurkers, etc.
Cheers,
Dallas
Cool!
Great idea/solution and result. Thanks for posting.
I can already hear Gordon or Nick piping up and suggesting I do it on the tanks I have alredy started (keep dreaming guys) :-X ::) :P ;D
Marc
Dallas,
that is a neat and simple solution!
Marc you are obviously just not prepared to put the effort in, disappointing you really could have become quite good ;)
Quote from: gfadvance on May 16, 2010, 07:41:12 AM
Dallas,
that is a neat and simple solution!
Marc you are obviously just not prepared to put the effort in, disappointing you really could have become quite good ;)
I agree , Gordon , Our Kid Marc is really a bit of a lightweight and no real commitment to the hobby . As you say , it's a shame , because he has promise !
Nick
Remember Kids...
Be Safe....Don't Drink & Model!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FMR_RBHEAD.jpg&hash=e247a535c4af29ac11cd044b92041ebd13c2d9ca)
M.......
Is there any other way?
Tom
These are definitely bits & pieces of clutter, although to 1/24 scale.
Just plasticard, scalpel & fiberglass burnishing tool .... no CAD drawings. Probable could easily be done with Print a Part but I quite like the imperfections. These are first trials, going to make some more with cleaner detail and then cast copies in resin - will probably then use these with some experiments I am working through on modelling cobblestones/ inset track.
Currently finish is just matt black and rubbed with pencil - giving a simple representation of polished cast iron
Impressive, Gordon! Even the lettering is carved by hand?
Mark Layton
Hey Gordon --
Those pieces look terrific ... and at the level of modeling here, the (very) minor imperfections only lend to the character ... very neatly done!
Cheers,
Dallas
Holy moly, those look like commercial castings! Great work!
How did you do that "fish scale" effect?
Most satisfactory. -- Russ
QuoteJust plasticard, scalpel & fiberglass burnishing tool .... no CAD drawings
:o :o :o
Now just hold on a minute!
What do you mean?
If it is not too much trouble I'd like to see more of how these came to be. PLEASE!
Those look great!
-Marty
Nice to see the lowly manhole cover and sewer grating given their due as scale models. Yours show how interesting they really are. I'm still trying to figure a good paint color to represent un-burnished, weathered cast iron. Black is close but needs a little red I think.
Dave
Dave,
agree with you ... when I get round to painting them for real will probable try some washes of a dark/rusty red to start of with.
Marty,
will try and put some SBS picture together when I rebuild these for real .... will put on a separate thread so as not to clutter up Marc's.
Ray,
not very good with fish, if it is the rectangular ones at the back I used aluminium mesh stuck on to plastic card .... will not be pursuing these as they turned out too modern looking for me!
Russ,
you and Phillip kindly answered a query I had ........ as you asked here is the first test piece for trying out "card" cobbles/setts, further tests to do on the painting.
First let's get the compliment over with: Terrific. Now for the question: How did you get the texture on the stones? Was it the paper you used or did you apply it yourself? -- Russ
Russ,
as in the case with a lot of my work, more luck than judgement.
The card I used did have a very slight texture to it although I think mostly it came from "stippling" on the PVA glue I used to seal the card
Nice work with the glue; that was far more important than the paper's texture. I'm jealous of your abilities with paper. You really did some good work. -- Russ
Got hold of some small etched letters that might be useful in various scales. Shown is Royal Model #489 Letters (Small) ... they also have a larger letter set and matching number sets in both sizes. Found it easiest to cut them with a sharp #11 blade over a piece of thick styrene (cutting mat deflects too much for the thin material and Xuron cutters are MASSIVE overkill!) ;D
Cheers,
Dallas
Thought I would add latest experiment with cobbles, pinched /borrowed idea from "Little Andi" and for Russ its paper again!
Cobble/sett pattern drawn out on heavy water colour paper with ball point pen to emboss, impress the joint lines
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to give some 3 D effect some of the cobbles were cut on 3 sides and slivers of paper glued underneath.
Test piece glued down with addition of paper under centre line to provide some degree of camber.
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Piece was then sprayed black, then dry brushed with grey and individual cobbles painted with different shades of grey. When dry some MIG industrial dirt brushed on then sealed with a light coat of dullcoat.
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Next test piece, will include some cobbles which have suffered heave/subsidence and also see if I can sort out some individual cobbles that have been pulled out completely.
Hey..... I had an idea like that once!!!!! - [Big grins].
Seriously..... looks good in your hands Gordon. I believe it's a technique that could offer up all sorts of opportunities and sophisticated finishes and styles. I shall continue to play myself and see if I can't explore some more.
Raw paper and posing with an embossing tool......
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And a trial finish just to see if the technique was viable............
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. Ha!!! Steal my thunder??? Follow me - I'll be right behind you!
This is great stuff and seems equal to the results from plaster -- only less expensive and far less messy.
I once saw a brick or cobblestone road from a commercial molded rubber product that appeared on a diorama by Dave Revelia. It did not look as real as what you gentlemen have achieved.
Between the recent posts about paper, laser cut resin board, etched metal, and rapid prototype output, my mind is overloaded with options. The hobby business may be in terrible shape but the quality of modeling has never been better.
Russ
Andi Gordon, both of your examples look great have either of you tried to do a 90 degree angle in the block or stone method? It looks like it has some real promise. Pat
Really cool and isnspirational stuff and ideas guys...gives me a lot to think about and play around with.
For those of you in the crowd that like manhole covers.....here's a page for you!
http://nickolai.de/Kanaldeckel/kanaldeckel.html (http://nickolai.de/Kanaldeckel/kanaldeckel.html)
MR
This embossed water color paper is a pretty cool idea! I supose you coud do the repose method and push it out from behind or glue small paper balls or wads behid to give a stone wall even more 3-d ?? and what about bending the paper to make the moutside corner? I think I will give it a try
Gil
I was bored at the bench and didn't feel like focusing on a specific project, so I decided to try a small experiment to play around with making old stone (limestone?) walls and vegetation.
Several weeks back I found an old .125" thick cork drink coaster, I had seen some of the military guys using cork to represent stone walls, and I had always wanted to try this, I also wanted to play around with some small vegetation details.
The cork was cut into strips, the facing/exposed edge and sides were roughed up by passing an Xacto over them, and using my fingers. They were then glued to a foam-core backing using Yellow carpenters glue; 020" strip-wood was used as a spacer for the horizontal courses. Once the glue had dried, I did some additional passes over the surface of the "stone" using a wire pencil and my finger.
Next the surface and joints were brushed and stippled with Liquitex modeling paste (the ones I had seen used plaster for this, but I did not feel like mixing any). After drying with a hair dryer, the mortar and stone surfaces were colored using Vallejo acrylics. This was followed by a quick application of some dark brown, grey and green Vallejo acrylics to represent the damp areas.
The small fine plant material is foam for trees from Woodland Scenics, the broad-leaf material is small pieces of dried parsley, lightly painted with Vallejo acrylics.
The wall section below is approximately 1/2" tall, and 3 inches long; and took about 1-hour to complete. It's far from perfect, and could use a lot of tweaking and finesse.....but it was a fun little experiment, and will no doubt lead me to practice/experiment further with this.
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I've looked at this a couple of times and not sure yet if I like it or not ... it's looking a bit like a foam casting to me in the first and third shots ... but seems more pleasing in the straight-on shot. Might be interesting to see how it looks sitting on some dirt, etc to get more of a feeling of how it looks in context. Have to remember to save the parsley next time it shows up on a plate now ...
You might also try Liquitex Ceramic Stucco ... it's another acrylic medium, but it has a grainy/sandy texture. (Which may or may not be what you want here, but if you haven't tried that yet I'll bet it proves useful somewhere.)
Cheers,
Dallas
Yeah...I think if one used plaster or spackeling compound, you could get a better differentiation between stone and mortar, because you coud use a coarse brush to "scrub" down the morter joints a bit and get better definition and surface textures between the stone and mortar.
Marc
Overall I'm pretty impressed with the effort. The limestone around me has surface characteristics very similar to the model, so I'm going to give this a try. I also really like the plants and organic coloration you've added.
My biggest objection is the mortar between the stones. The lack of contrast between the stones and the mortar almost makes it look like the stones are dry-laid, but if that was the case, the recesses between stones would be much darker to my eye. I think the similarity in color makes it all look like a painted model, rather than being up to your usual standards. It also has a "generic" quality to it. For example, the limestone in central Kentucky I'm trying to match is very white, with darker mortar lines. (The mortar joints were also usually tuckpointed after the wall was finished.)
Please take these comments for what they're worth - attempts at constructive criticism. What you've posted here is better than anything I've done...
Eric Zabilka
Eric,
Thanks for the input and critique. Much appreciated. thanks also for the ref. pic of the KY limestone.
You are right the whole piece is lacing differentiation and definition....much of that is because I really had no direction where I was going with it....I just sort of started messing with the materials, and then reshed through the finishing/painting. The Modelling paste is also a definite problem...it doesn't absorp the acrylics and washes well....and once dry, it is quite a hard shell to shape....so I would definitely recommend using a light-weight spackle or plaster...something that can easily be worked after drying.
Marc
If you put that wall in a scene with other modeled bits of a similar level it would blend in. On its own it is easy to see a few things that need attention. It is almost not fair to yourself Marc to do that.
Context is very important in fooling the mind-eye connection. That is what we do after all- attempt to trick the viewer into thinking a model is what it is really not.
John
PS And I find a good bourbon assists in that mind-eye foolery.
Not to steal the thread, but I can't let that last comment go by without asking...do you have a favorite bourbon John?
For what it's worth, my favorites are Four Roses Small Batch, Corner Creek, and Bulleit.
Eric Zabilka
Sooner or later the talk always come back to the BOOZE ::) Craig
Eric, you are far more of an experienced bourbon man than I. At our state-run booze stores there is some selection, but I prefer Jim Beam Black because it is reasonable to buy and taste and share. Better than Maker's Mark etc. We have a bar/restaurant here in Roanoke that has a bourbon tasting club, but I prefer to drink at home.
Our old favorite was actually a scotch, The Dalmore -12 year stuff. But that is getting pricey and harder to buy.
No Craig, the talk generally comes back to Russ and his thong-bikini clad office assistants on his Island of Misfit Modelers. Then we discuss the booze. :)
Anyway- bricks, rocks, stones, walls. I modeled the Hoosac Tunnel east portal in 1:160 a while back. It is styrene with all the blocks according to the real deal. I never could get rid of the styrene sheen for some reason. These days I would have put more into it texture and finish wise. I had fun and wrote about it for N-Scale magazine.
Now whose thread is this?
John
I like the stone wall. If it were used as-is in a 1/35 armor diorama, the lack of definition to the mortar wouldn't be an issue since its more or less a background piece. If the details blended out a little, it wouldn't hurt, might enhance the focal point.
Good to know about cork as a stone making material. If I used it, I might add some grit to the paint, so the finished surface would be less smooth. Might also help with the styrene sheen John had trouble with on the tunnel portal. Durham's Water Putty is a useful additive in these cases.
Dave
I do find this topic really useful as you can drop in little experiments that don't really justify a thread of their own .... and hopefully get some useful comments/critique.
I'm starting to build some bits & pieces for an abandoned/ drained canal, amongst the list of things I wanted to include was an abandoned old rusty wheelbarrow. the basic shape of the barrow was pull moulded over a carved shape and the frame made from 1.5mm aluminium tube, and the wheel lifted from (I think a 1/48 ME109)
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I'm trying to get a better understanding of pigments so this was a useful piece to learn a bit more about them . After priming with matt black I then sponged on a lot of rust shades then sprayed with hair spray, when wet sprinkled on some salt. When that was dry it was given a light spray of grey paint and then the salt was brushed off and some more of the grey. paint scrubbed off.
At this stage started to apply various shades of rust pigments from MIG productions, I deliberately tried to use a mix of dry and wet pigments to build some texture and that scale effect you get on old rusty metal.
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As you can see this experiment didn't work as well as I had imagined it in my mind .......... however played around with a bit more of the pigment fixer and its now got a bit closer
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Final shot is where I have got to now , this is the angle that the finished piece will be displayed so spending most of my time working on this angle .... have now added a bit of MIG Factory Grey pigment as this seems a good match to old dried cement.
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So folks sharpen your pencils and let me have your views.
Quitcher bellyachin'. Looks very, very good. -- Russ
Gordon --
Neatly done! Remove those little lint fuzzies at the back corner (front left on screen) and you're there.
Cheers,
Dallas
Dallas,
thats one of life's many mysteries to me ....... you check the model, you check the initial photo, then you post them ......... and what do know the little fuzzies are back.
Their gone NOW!
Russ, sorry didn't mean to sound as if I was moaning ::)
John, Your right... thong bikini's..... you forgot paper modeling....and then the Booze :) The wheelbarrow looks good especially making it from scratch.....and the coloring turned out good in the end. Craig
G, that wheel barrow would be a better model if it was done in cardstock or paper... ;)
Actually I like the finish. Set in a scene with other objects of similar quality it would be a nice eye highlight, something to rest the vision on for a moment while scanning the view. The dents and rust and holes make one imagine the hard service it saw, the calloused hands upon the handles and the general age of the thing. Very nice, and well worth the effort.
John
Here are 2 of the most exciting pictures you will ever see, a small (1"x1"x1")grey box!
This came about following my last conversation with Andi Little on a project we are both involved in , were discussing likely rubbish that would be dumped in the drained canal, no offence but I was trying to avoid the ubiquitous 45 gallon beat-up rusty oil drum and Andi suggested an old safe ......... now whither he meant for the Top or Bottom Yard is still open for debate
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Just need to finish of front with some bits & pieces from one of Lasercut frets for the combination dial, handle etc. and then the fun will start ... pictures on the web show most of these old safes had some form of gold pin-striping on the front, oh and add some wheels, again pictures show most had small cast iron wheels on the bottom.
Gordon --
a) Bravo for choosing "alternative" junk item(s)!
b) That's a rather neat little assembly of styrene bits & pieces you've got there ... looking real good ... and appears to be a very good job of fabricating/setting the hinge pins to allow that door to swing properly.
c) I guess Houdini got out! ;)
Cheers,
Dallas
I just happen to have an old safe in my shop, complete with pinstripes and wheels.
Most of the decoration is on the interior, and the exterior of mine is pretty rough.
Let me know if you want more pictures or dimensions.
Eric Zabilka
And here's one of the front...
Nice ending to the wheelbarrow project Gordon. And that has to be the first 'safe' modeling project I've ever seen.
Eric,
thanks for the photos, now if you can just flip it over and photograph the bottom so I can see how the wheels/supports are fixed on , that would be great ;D ;D ;D.
Or if you could just confirm the diameter of the wheels/castor's that would be almost as good ;)
I was going to be mister cleverpants and use a mirror to take a picture of the underside of the safe, but I can't find a mirror big enough to work that doesn't have a frame. So sorry about that.
The wheels themselves are 4" in diameter and 1" wide. The casting that supports each wheel is bolted to the underside of the safe body with three hex bolts. Judging by how they feel, I'd say the bolt heads are 5/8".
The casting has a triangular shape where it contacts the safe body, so one of the three bolts is right at the corner of the safe, and the other two are at the points of the triangle, about 4" from the corner. The casting is about 6" wide at the front, and extends a little over 4" back on the sides.
Does this make sense?
If not, let me know and I'll take some photos with a ruler in them...
Eric
Eric,
thanks for information and explanation, think I fully understand - we'll know when I build them tonight !
Well Eric, this is how the castors turned out ..... used your dimensions so in 1/24 they are approx 6 x 4 mm, changed the wheel size though tried 4mm but it didn't look right so now they are a fraction under 3mm
Its taken me almost twice as long to build these than it took to do the safe & door!
When everything is dry & hard the whole thing will need a good clean up and I'll try to paint including the pinstriping
Gordon - those look great!
You understood my vague description perfectly.
As far as "junk" goes, I applaud your effort at thinking outside the (pinstriped) box!
Eric
Fabulous job Gordon............
That really looks the part - looks heavy and tough. Couldn't ask for anything more - F.A.B.
Wow, a 1:24 scale safe with "underbody detail" ... guess you'll have to put some broken mirror fragments in the canal underneath the safe so everyone can see that! ;D (Looking good)
Cheers,
Dallas
I'm pleased that the safe appeals, thought I would post these 2 pictures before I ruin it while trying to sort out the final paint job.
Its 99% built now, just need to find a brass hand rail knob which I know I put somewhere safe, to make up the handle to go next to the combination dial. Was going to print of some decals for the name but my printer is not good enough for this size so used some Slater's letters and then sanded them down a bit.
Still swithering over colour it may be black or a very dark green although have seen some nice examples in a deep maroon colour , finished off with some gold(tarnished) pin striping and letters, silver/steel dial and handle - not rusty but probably a bit chipped around edges with some scratches on top, sides and on the door ..... thats the mental plan will see what reality actually brings
Ignore the steel hinge pin thats only a temporary fix so I can take door on & off for painting
Not bad. Will you put scale dust and cobwebs underneath? -- Russ
Gordon,
Beautiful job on the safe, can't wait to see the finished (painted and striped) version.
But, This safe in the canal just begs for a back story, why is it there?
Was it thrown away because the combination was lost or the lock/dial broken?
Was it stolen and cracked or drilled and blown and dumped there?
What happened for this safe to end up where it is?
Just something to think about.
Rick
Rick,
agree, trying at the moment to develop the next chapter in the back story to "justify" the safe.
If you are interested the overview back story is at the beginning of this thread
http://forum.gn15.info/viewtopic.php?t=6778
Quote from: gfadvance on August 16, 2010, 12:52:09 AM
Rick,
agree, trying at the moment to develop the next chapter in the back story to "justify" the safe.
If you are interested the overview back story is at the beginning of this thread
http://forum.gn15.info/viewtopic.php?t=6778
That's an excellent thread. I followed your link to the doll-house site by way of the brick stencil mention. They have a stencil for rough stone that looks like what I have been looking for - Rough Stone Stencil .. except that it is only available in 1:12 and 1:24. The image shown is for the 1:12 scale stencil and there are 'approximately' 12 stones on a row. At 280mm they would be around 23mm long so say .. and inch. Figure 1:24 would be half that. A half-inch in 1:48 would be two-foot. A bit larger then I need .. darn it. Still .. might be possible to "roll my own". The site states that the stencils are "made from a tough plastic/polyester material" .. so thinking a thin, flexible rubber/poly and a X-Acto knife might work .. I had been looking at replicating a wall constructed similar to the one in this photo and this looks like it would work.
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Well, I think I've discovered the easiest way to get custom work from Dave at www.VectorCut.com -- just ask him to do the "same thing" in a different scale! ;D :D 8)
If anybody else wants the auto parts in 1/35, just contact Dave thru his web site ... these parts aren't listed there, but he obviously has the artwork file on hand now ... and I'm sure he'd be happy to make more. I don't get any kick-backs from that, but I do want him to still be in a good mood the next time I make a crazy request. ;)
Thanks Dave!
-- Dallas
Interesting stuff at VectorCut... Do you know if he does bulk custom stuff? Would be interesting to know if that sort of service is available if I ever needed it for a future release.
Dave's a member of this forum -- his screen name is "DaKra" here -- so look for one of his posts and you can send him a PM or email thru his web site. Dunno the answer, but he's a friendly guy who does really fine laser work ... and I'm sure he'll enjoy a look at your crazy wonderful fish kit!
PS -- Have a look at his laser thread here:
http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1055
Cheers,
Dallas
Geee....that stuff in 1:48 would be kinda kool........
-Marty
Marty --
Go here:
http://www.vectorcut.com/accessoriesO.htm
... scroll down ... click "add to cart" ... wait by mailbox! ;D
Cheers,
Dallas
Dave does laser work that is not commonly accomplished. You can see that in his selection of goodies for sale. He is helped me with parts for my bridge in the resin casting thread. And I am trying to think of other more interesting and challenging stuff to try. Send him an email or message if you have a project in mind.
John
I guess the Big Picture aspect of all this is beginning to emerge: An artist with an output device (e.g., laser cutter, 3-D printer, CNC mill, etc.) probably could supplement his income by taking on a lot of custom projects, then add those items to his product line. Look at all the interest we've had in Dave's work and in PrintAPart. This might start some of you rascals thinking about retirement businesses .... -- Russ
I've only just explored this thread today and I'm amazed at the great ideas/ I love the watercolor paper. I'm going to run some through my printer with our stone wall texture and see what kind of results i can get.
Not to sure where to post this so puting it here, somebody higher up the food chain can move it if know of a better home for it.
Virgil Suarez, posted on the MIG forum details of a new crackle paint he had used, Ranger's "Distress Crackle Paint" I ordered some of this last week and have started to experiment with it.
When you open the pot I can only describe it as very thick and gloppy, although of the 4 colours I ordered all seem to have a different viscosity.
First picture is the stuff used straight out of the pot, applied to a little shed I have spare (Russ for you the planks are 80lb watercolour paper) , have to say thought I was just applying a thick coat of filler but after it dried . about an hour it did not look to bad. Then gave the surface a thin wash of Windsor & Newton Burnt Sienna Ink to highlight the cracks. As you can see it does what it says on the tin , very fine cracks certainly pretty near scale for 1/24 at least. Each plank is about 4mm, 1/8th" wide
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I then tried it thinned down with water, ratio is about 50/50 ......... this time no real sign of crackling. Because I was working a textured paper it is difficult to say whither or not the paint had added to the texture although the corner post which is balsa does show some sign of crackling
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Need to do some proper experiment on a smooth surface with different mixture ratios to see if I can achieve crackling at a viscosity that ideally I can spray
Gordon --
Thanks for sharing that ... looks like there's some potential there. On the manufacturer's site, they indicate that you should add just a touch of water with a fine mist sprayer if needed. Also indicate that if you want to speed the drying, instead of heat, direct COOL air to the unpainted side:
http://www.rangerink.com/tips/tips_distresscrackle.htm
They also have yet another version of "ye olde scratching tool" which might be handy to add to the mix:
http://www.rangerink.com/products/prod_tonic_craft-scratcher.htm
Cheers,
Dallas
As a first attempt the results are good. I think, as you become more familiar with how to use the paint, it may provide impressive results. -- Russ
If I may be so bold as to add my two cents...as Virgil noted, the thinned approach is what you want....BUT...I think the paper is possibly causing you some issues with absorbing the moisture from the paint,...you might want to consider possibly first coating the wall with a thin layer of matte varnish, to seal the surface....this should help the crackle effect.
Marc
Valid points Marc
I will do some more controlled experiments over next few days and post under Weathering & Painting Techniques
I intend to use a white plastic base, with a black acrylic primer sprayed on, brush and sponge applications, and with different ratios of dilution. I also would like to try spraying over the crackle effect to see if it still shows to increase the colour options. I will also try to see if applying heat to increase speed of drying has any significant effect.
Any other variations anybody can think of ?
Gordon --
The manufacturer's tips say suggest using COOL air on the back (unpainted) side of the object rather than heat ... so you might want to add that variation to your tests.
Look forward to your results ... based on your preliminary work, I've ordered a couple of the colors and one of their scratchy brushes.
Cheers,
Dallas
I'd be interested in finding out how it does on other surfaces, such as primered styrene.
Once again something small...
I already showed this beginning in the Caboose thread:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FDetail_Parts%2FCrossingSign_1.jpg&hash=d9426ee731722be1537af8d4be3c467206debb95)
After applying a coat of matte sealer and a couple of coats of hairspray, the sign and post were painted an aged white, using a mix of Tamiya "White" and "_". I then did a drawing of the sign in CAD to create a masking guide. On the right one can see the drawing, and on the left is the sign on the guide, masked-off, ready for paint.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FDetail_Parts%2FCrossingSign_3.jpg&hash=48c2259b2d99e4ab4f8a8702ddfa93bf7b4768f6)
Here you can see the sign after application of the faded red color. Also shown is the post, which has been chipped.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FDetail_Parts%2FCrossingSign_2.jpg&hash=a2014730ae2d00007c27754028fa08b15d57149d)
Marc
amazingly real texture Marc ! I really need to get on board with this type of finishing.
What type of sign is that? I missed the caboose thread.
Philip
Not bad for an amateur. -- Russ
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bouldervalleymodels.com%2Fimages%2Ffsrr%2Fbolt-man-03.jpg&hash=5b9fb46ecfe50ac3aedd24c4a5b1c051f917abe3)
Can't resist cross-posting this one from my garage thread ... it's an objet d'art (aka clutter) made from bits-n-pieces! ;)
Cheers,
Dallas
Details make the scene. This is a good library.
Dallas,
Your bolt man reminded me or an old display of a bolt man chasing a bolt worman. The caption was, "Not without a washer you won't"
Thanks for the DVD.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bouldervalleymodels.com%2Fimages%2Ffsrr%2Ftrash-01.jpg&hash=94c7276f16f80265f6932672c71c28119f18b341)
Don't mind me ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bouldervalleymodels.com%2Fimages%2Ffsrr%2Ftrash-02.jpg&hash=6668375f530ab09e88ae4952c3c31e4dbc8d4343)
Just scratchbuilding some little trash cans to help with the clutter in this thread! ;)
Cheers,
Dallas
Scratchbuilt :o. Those look great Dallas! Looking forward to see how they were made - no I won´t copy them the fan is enough.
Anders ;D
Yes, please do tell how you made the cans! I love them!
Paul
Great thoughts, Dallas. René Descartes would be proud of you : 'Je pense donc je suis'.
First can was tricky (lots of error in the trail-and-error) ... second and third cans were a snap. I'll post an SBS as soon I get a chance to sort out the photos.
Cheers,
Dallas
Cogito ergo sum.............. I'm pink, therefore I'm spam!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bouldervalleymodels.com%2Fimages%2Ffsrr%2Ftrash-14.jpg&hash=1efefacb3c5f726bd401c96e12932a9bb20f1ee3)
Thanks guys -- glad you like the cans! Posted the SBS photos in the 1/35 Auto Repair Shop thread here:
http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=876.msg24184#msg24184
Cheers,
Dallas
Those are the best trash cans i have ever seen! Bellisimo! Bravo!
marc
Yeah, what he said. And the fabrication technique is very, very clever. -- Russ
Thanks Marc -- I'm humbled (and quite pleased) by those remarks! ;)
Of note: The transparency material used to make the can wrappers responds to embossing differently than .005 styrene. It seems to make crisper ribs, etc., than you get with styrene ... so that might come in handy as an alternate material for little plates, hatch covers, etc. where some embossing is needed.
Thanks Russ -- The "cleverness" translates into persistence. After the first few failures, I just kept going based on the aspects that were working until the rest got ironed out. :)
That said, once the process was established, making additional cans is a simple and easy little project ...
Cheers,
Dallas
"Inside the Armour" -- 1/35 scale tools & boxes
Turns out these folks make TWO different sets of toolboxes & tools ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bouldervalleymodels.com%2Fimages%2Ffsrr%2FITA-35015-British.jpg&hash=4059decdb25c30f5590578707b5f48b84bf5d3d7)
#35015 British Tank Maintenance Tools -- shown above. More photos of component pieces here:
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=5749
And it can be found on the ITA web site here:
http://www.insidethearmour.com/pages/addOnArmour.html
BTW, this set includes parts to make SOCKETS ... but those are assembled from individual round layers (yikes!) ... not sure how well that would work out. Seems like it might be better to put one of those disks over the end of a piece of open tubing to suggest the socket instead. ???
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bouldervalleymodels.com%2Fimages%2Ffsrr%2FITA-35018-01.jpg&hash=e9beab0dac215ef2172b0d3a55493978b8141d22)
#35018 Generic Tools -- shown above. More photos here:
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/newkitnews/insidethearmour.html
This set is NOT (currently) shown on the ITA set -- see ordering info below.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bouldervalleymodels.com%2Fimages%2Ffsrr%2FITA-saw.jpg&hash=02f5ad5ff4e2c1ee0d82e260c8ab919bed1ee947)
There's a detailed build thread, including some assembly tips/info and finishing here:
http://www.militarymodelling.com/forums/postings.asp?th=47040&p=1
Ordering -- UK and International: The British set is on the ITA web site on the page linked previously. You can inquire about the generic set, postage etc, here:
http://www.insidethearmour.com/pages/howToOrde.html
Ordering -- United States: I got the generic set from Dave Reed Models (no web site) ... and he's willing to stock or special order the British set if there's interest. Email Dave: dave37167 (at) hotmail.com
No ... I'm not smart enough to get a good kickback arrangement on these plugs ... just passing along the info! ;)
1/35 Scale RAILWAY Tools --- ???
I've exchanged emails with Chris Meddings at ITA, and he's planning to do more tools and toolboxes ... he's seen the threads here, and he'd be interested in doing some 1/35 scale railway tools ... if someone can supply him with the appropriate information (photos, dimensions, etc.) Contact Chris here if you can do that:
http://www.insidethearmour.com/pages/howToOrde.html
Cheers,
Dallas
The bolt man is great, I've seen figures like that in so many garages and shops.
Awesome garbage cans!
A useful post. Very nice products. -- Russ
Good find Malachi, looks like I shall have to get me a couple of sets .
Talking of railway tools here are a couple of fellas who might be in need of some . The latest addition to the MK35 range . Ugly looking buggers .
Nick
Yikes, those are some ugly buggers! I've seen that fat guy and all his cousins at every train show I've ever attended ... always blocking the tables I'm trying to visit ...
BTW, I have the ITA "generic" tool set in hand. The saws do have some amazing little detail in the teeth ... they need some attention to properly shape the handles, etc, as described in that build thread that was linked.
Also, I've built the Plus Model fold-out toolbox, and it was a extremely fiddly -- looks like the ITA fold-out box is much easier -- and the hinge bits look much more manageable. That was the worst part on the Plus Model version.
Will probably get the British set when I get a few $$ or GBP's to spare ... I like those toolboxes (which are different than the angled one in the generic set) ... and might be "fun" to give the sockets a whirl.
Cheers,
Dallas
Dallas n' Nick,
Thanks for posting that info....some great new stuff, guess I'll be needing to hit-up my wife for my allowance.
Speaking of little people..i'ts been raining and cold here, so not able to shoot paint my robot build,...decided the LP's my need somewhere to sit, so I threw together a couple of benches for them.
Construction is stripwood, wet painted with Vallejo acrylics, and then weathered with some MIG and Bragdons pigments, and Abt-502 "Engine Grease" oil color. Green color and chips were brush applied...wear area in center was done by dampening a cosmetic sponge in alcohol and very carefully removing the color coat.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FDetail_Parts%2FBenches_4.jpg&hash=167b69e15916f48aea49b7d49c906ed7b799ec75)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FDetail_Parts%2FBenches_1.jpg&hash=aabff5291bbab12cf642a65b3ac195f3a05ddd24)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FDetail_Parts%2FBenches_2.jpg&hash=2f65dca8ac5d8e09a584856b8c5a955b020a3fa0)
Marc
Little bench made from box scraps is cool ... but that painted bench with the worn-off seating area is outstanding!
Saving those ideas for furnishing the "customer lounge" on the front porch of my shop. ;)
Cheers,
Dallas
Simple little things that just look right.
No point in trying to kid you .............. I'm just going to steal this idea, the only question is what scale will I build them in ?
Nice finish though
Nice benches , Marc . Yet another one of you ideas to nick !
Back to tool boxes . I bought these two sets some time ago and nearly gave up the will to live trying to make the tool box . The ITA ones look much more user friendly .
Nick
Funny how all the different makers have different strengths and weaknesses to their items. That RM toolbox does look like a helluva job to do ... BUT ... the RM #039 Workshop accessories are REAL nice. Have those taped all over the back wall of my shop now ;D ... look forward to actually finishing them. Here's a close-up shot ...
Cheers,
Dallas
Great benches, very realistic! I like the paint can stain.
Thanks guys, they were a fun little build, and I am sure will come in handy somewhere down the road...but now that the LPs have a place to sit, they are complaining they have nothing to play cards on, and nowhere to heat their lunch sausages over a fire!
The whole time I was building these I was thinking how much easier and quicker it would be if these were available as a set of 3 laser cut benches ::) ;D
Marc
Laser cut those things? In that scale? I can just hear the old timers grumbling how kids today can't do anything by hand! ::) :D
Love the paint can circles, hmm maybe a laser cut rubber stamp for that ...
Marc, those benches are great! I love the paint can rings and wear on the tops AND the brace that was salvaged from something else. Just great!
Paul
Marc, Good job on the Benches, this is the kind of detail that really adds Lot's of interest to a modeling scene ;)
I've been wondering what you're up to. -- Russ
Thanks guys.
Quote from: finescalerr on March 23, 2011, 01:33:03 PM
I've been wondering what you're up to. -- Russ
Dealing with some unfortunate family stuff, and bike, bike, bike, bike.....around 600 miles in the last 3 weeks....Solvang Century and so forth. Was out in your neck of the woods last week.....Mullholland, to Rock Store climb, down Westlake Blvd., across Agoura Rd, up Cornell and back on Mullholland....a nice short 28-mile loop with some fun winding climbs and descents.
Marc
You were five lousy blocks away. Had you climbed the hill to my house I could have chased you around the block the entire time you were visiting. -- Russ
I think you chasing a couple of guys in spandex around the block, might look kind of creepy to your neighbors. ;D
M
.. or not. Isn't that California?
Pardon me ... I'm going to cross-post this in this thread (and my auto repair thread), since it's a handy item for the 1/35 modelers:
Got the new (to me) 1:35 Scale "Modelmakers" rule from Expo Tools today and it's a beauty ... well, it's an oddity, see warning below. One edge has feet/inches with inch marks the FULL length ... the other edge has meter/cm marks the full length.
Edit: Warning -- As Marc will point out below, these numbskulls at Expo have made 10 divisions to the foot ... so each mark is 1.25" ... NOT 1.00" ... some kinda stupid "metric inches" or something ... damn! (Try "Scale Card" brand for proper inch markings.)
Cheers,
Dallas
Thanks Dallas...just bought one from the ebay link.
The guys in Nottingham (Sherwood Forest? ;D)....probably just around the bend from Gordon & Nick. ;D
Marc
Quote from: Malachi Constant on March 24, 2011, 05:10:02 PM
Pardon me ... I'm going to cross-post this in this thread (and my auto repair thread), since it's a handy item for the 1/35 modelers:
Got the new (to me) 1:35 Scale "Modelmakers" rule from Expo Tools today and it's a beauty. One edge has feet/inches with inch marks the FULL length ... the other edge has meter/cm marks the full length.
And, the ruler is a bit over a foot long. There are 35 scale feet to an actual foot (duh, eh?) ... and this rule goes to 37 feet on one edge, 11 meters on the other. (For those inclined to do the math ... yes, printing on the metric side is a bit shorter!)
As Gordon noted (thanks!) -- you want the one marked "Modelmakers Scale Rule" to get the fine measurements. Links previously posted in the 1:35 Auto Repair Shop thread here:
http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=876.msg24309#msg24309
Cheers,
Dallas
Dallas ,
I think I am going to have rain on your parade . Have you looked at the way that the inches are subdivided ? There are 5 subdivisions for every six inches giving each foot 10 inches . This makes trying to do any accurate measuring rather tricky .
If yours has the correct number of subdivisions then I'll have to send mine back , but I suspect Expo won't have corrected the error . Unfortunately , I don't know of any other maker that produces a rule in this scale .
Nick
Nick,
off to try and find mine, you have got me worried now :'(
I have ordered a 12" one from "The Scale Card " people but not arrived yet, expect it to be OK as their 1/35 card is marked down to inches (and I have just counted their divisions and there are 12 to the foot)
Should have stuck to 1/24, I still blame Dallas
Oh crap!
You're right ... the buggers have created "metric feet" or some such ... damn, damn, damn!
Well, the steel edge with feet and proper half-feet marks is nice ... guess I'll have to order a Scale Card brand ruler. I do have one plexiglass job with 1/35 feet and inches properly marked, but the marks are in white on a clear plexi so it's pretty dang hard to see. Okay ... back to Scale Card then for measuring inches ... and crap, crap, crap! :( :'( :-\
-- Dallas
Where's th problem dudes?.....it's basically like using an engineering scale...or like an engineering graph pad (5 or 10 grid squares to the inch). ;D ;D ;D
FWIW...Voyager (the PE company) makes a nice...albeit a bit flexible....6" long one that is in meters. ;D
M
The Medieval era lives on in the American system of weights and measures. Good thing it was simplified a bit!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fupload.wikimedia.org%2Fwikipedia%2Fcommons%2Fc%2Fc8%2FEnglish_length_units_graph.png&hash=8de8d1dce95eeed694d85d1554d7721382b73614)
Isn't Britain slowly preparing for the metric system ? ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Jacq
HO is the best: 3.5 MM = that medieval foot. Best of both worlds.
Quote from: jacq01 on March 25, 2011, 07:02:41 AM
Isn't Britain slowly preparing for the metric system ? ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Jacq
No, Jacq, they find it too difficult... ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
But about these scale rulers. I agree on the ten "inchimals" a dumb choice... I once bought a ruler with inches on one side and centimeters on the other side and found to my great dismay the inches had been also subdivided into ten parts. But wouldn't it make sense to print a 1:35 ruler on good quality paper and fix it to a bit of metal or plastic and get a no-cost scale ruler?
I have several good scale rulers, but I don't use them much. Mostly I just multiply or divide by the scale, on a pocket calculator I keep on my desk. When reducing to scale, I dial the result into a digital caliper.
The digital caliper is one of my most used tools, extremely precise but only cost around $20 from MicroMark. You can flip back and forth to mm / in.
http://www.micromark.com/Digital-Caliper-with-Standard-Numerals-6-Inch-Capacity,8094.html
I remember dreaming of buying one back when I was in college, but they cost around $200 then and all I could afford was a sucky plastic dial caliper.
Dave
Dave. I use a 'non sucky' dial caliper so .. so far have only looked at the digital calipers at Lowes. I noticed that they have a 3" "pocket digital caliper" - carbon fiber. Measures in - inches, millimeters and fractions for $19.98. What puzzles me is .. apparently there is a chip in the caliper that converts between inches, mm and fractions .. so .. what occurred to me was .. why the heck doesn't Micro-Mart have calipers that switch between inches, mm and you favorite scale? Seems to me that a simple re-programming of that chip .. change the printing on the handle to say "O scale" or whatever. Suppose I'm just slow .. but .. "I don't get it"
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.lowes.com%2Fproduct%2Fconverted%2F038728%2F038728014337xl.jpg&hash=d7c9e079e8d799bb9988c88bac2f78bd30038aa7)
MM also sells a 6" digital caliper that does fractions. I also thought a scale converting one would be handy, but I think MM's business model is to search out inexpensive general purpose tools, mark them way up and sell them as hobby purposed tools. So the low price on the made in Japan caliper sort of amazes me, but the lack of scale converter doesn't.
But converting on the calculator isn't really a problem. The 3" capacity of the caliper you show would be too small for me.
Dave
They have a larger one too .. also some kinda fancy digital multi-inch/mm. Just checked my dial calipers .. they're 6". MOSTLY .. that's ok. Starrett has em' up to 40" in digital! I hate to ever guess what the cost would be though. I still have a venier caliper but it's some crazy metric / 1/128" sucker I picked up in Germany. Wish I still had my old Starrett Venier caliper .. it was a 12" model.
When I was a little kid, they told me that we had to learn the metric system, because the US would be converting in 1976! So it goes ...
Meanwhile, I sent an email to Expo Tools and got a rather friendly answer ... expressing a bit of surprise, as they've been selling them for a while now and no-one else has complained about the "inchimals" ... but they went on to offer a refund. (Which, of course, is easier than actually fixing the problem!)
And, I called Scale Card today to order a spare 1:35 wallet card and a couple of their plastic rulers .... maybe I'll paste one of those free printable rules over the steel rule ...
Of course, I still have to bake a cake and apologize profusely for getting Gordon mixed up in this 1:35 stuff. ;)
Cheers,
Dallas
Hey...you owe me a cake as well....I ordered one on YOUR recommendation. ;) ;D ;D
Marc
Oh crap! Now I have to make biscuits and scones and cakes and a full tea serving to keep all the Mad Hatters in good shape. I'll definitely spike the punch ... maybe even throw in some of those pills that make you larger, then smaller and all that good stuff ...
Meanwhile, this free printable ruler has TWELVE inch marks to the foot and half-inch marks in-between those ... check to make sure the scaling is right when it comes out of your printer, and you can paste it over top the steelie:
http://www.miniature-planet.com/download/scale_rulers/printable_scale%20ruler_1_35.pdf
Mea Culpa! (It was such a GREAT *idea* they had when they laid out the rule with the feet, inches, cumulative inches and scale-metric measurements on the other edge ... if ONLY they'd known ... if ONLY they'd know ... we've got 12 smeggin' inches to the foot.)
-- Dallas
Quote from: Malachi Constant on March 25, 2011, 05:08:22 PM
Meanwhile, this free printable ruler has TWELVE inch marks to the foot and half-inch marks in-between those ... check to make sure the scaling is right when it comes out of your printer, and you can paste it over top the steelie:
http://www.miniature-planet.com/download/scale_rulers/printable_scale%20ruler_1_35.pdf
-- Dallas
Oh sure...now we have to resort to the finger-in-the-dyke approach. ;D ;D ...never mind the ingerent innacuracy of paper which expands and contracts with humidity/heat, not to mention age.....probably the same amount as if one just used the inchimeters to begin with. ;) ;D ;D
M (always with the negative waves...)
Well, we do have to be careful not to make the dyke angry ... er ...
I printed one of those freebies ... and it came out quite accurate compared to a couple other rulers ... BUT ... it has so damn many little marks (every 1/2") that it's a PITA to see what's-what.
Meanwhile ... and DON'T RUSH IN behind me here ( !!) 8) ... my little wallet-size Scale Card has clearly marked INCHES ... and every third inch mark is a bold line, which makes it easy to "count" visually. Those marks do NOT go to the edge of the card ... so they're good for measuring (because the card is clear), but not for marking.
I called Scale Card today and asked specifically if the marks on the ruler go to the edge. They said yes. So I ordered some ... but let's wait and see what I get before I have to start baking another batch of cakes ...
(Ironically, I don't need the ruler that often with most of the 1/35 stuff ... but I have used the plexi one with white inch marks enough times to get sick of that, and it would be nice to work this out to have a "go to" ruler.)
Cheers,
Dallas
I have the scale card for 1/35, and have found it quite useful...especially while on the hunt for "adaptables"; from things like HO scale porch columns that will become table legs, to match-box trucks that will become cement mixers, and a whole world of wierd stuff at Michaels and the 99C store.
M
Marc, You shop at the 99 cent store :o
Craig;
You never know what you find in those types of places. ;D
It's still too cold and wet here for spraying...and the wife was out tonight, so I decided to play around building some trackwork...well, at least 14" of it. Nothing stupendous...but a fun experiment and learning experience. The bolt heads are bit big (about a scale 1/2" in dia)...but they were the closest I could find that looked ok design wise. Gauge is 600mm in 1/35 rail is code-70...I think. Ties are various sizes of Basswood wet-painted with Vallejo acrylics. The metal tie is one I had made from PAP.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FTrack1.jpg&hash=cfcb0f3618540a67442b3bdb5e8a478be6a3887f)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FTrack3.jpg&hash=826e5cc459578095a2c2c77a0daef8fcbc1baf88)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FTrack2.jpg&hash=2d05265bf197c6aed20a8fb6911019996e0611be)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FTrack4.jpg&hash=bdd350b4615259d9ee07d26f3281918adf6dfebe)
Marc
Marc,
your last photo's definitely pulled me over to building something in 1:35. I'll give details of my idea's in a separate post, together with some questions about 2D to 3D.
Jacq
Thanks Jacq, Look forward to your questions, and definitely to your new project ;D....always great to see another person looney enough to build 1/35, feld/industrie bahn. ;D
Marc
Quote from: jacq01 on March 26, 2011, 02:29:29 AM
Marc,
your last photo's definitely pulled me over to building something in 1:35. I'll give details of my idea's in a separate post.
Jacq
You keep saying that , Jacq, but we still haven't seen anything yet ,
Nick
I was waiting for your reply :D :D
Jacq
The track looks great! I like the tie with the bands around the ends to keep it from splitting.
That is the kind of detail and realism I love to see in railroad modeling. A switching diorama built to that standard is far more interesting to me than one of those basement size behemoths. -- Russ
Detail of the trackwork looks great ... guess I'll have to remember that I'm in the "bigger scale" when I get that far ...
QUESTION: What does the section with 6 rails represent? Not being a wise guy (this time!) ... just not getting it at the moment ...
-- Dallas
Thanks guys.
Dallas;
The area with the 6 rails is for a road crossing...I have seen them done like this, as well as more/continuous rails laid between the tracks.
Marc
Ah! Well that makes sense ... and, you know, now that you've got little benches for the people and playing cards and road crossings and all that stuff ... you might actually have to add some LP's and finish the Volks-cart and so forth. Maybe Jacq will design a nice "easy to build" diorama setting for you! ;D
Trackwork is definitely inspiring ...
(PS -- I think Jacq's design posted elsewhere looks GREAT ... but definitely not easy.) ;)
-- Dallas
Hi Marc,
Great job!
I find here in France stamped brass "screw spike", the square head is 0.6mm, and round head is 1.2mm..., the point is 0.6mm dia. and about 8mm long.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages107.fotki.com%2Fv84%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2FVoie1-vi.jpg&hash=61f5db354de2b3181ab2f5ffe2a38925c4281df7)
Here a track sample, on wood ties, ME code 70 rail, fastened with this "screw spike"...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages56.fotki.com%2Fv127%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2FIMG_1473-vi.jpg&hash=0e73a7ddf435d7274f2cb549b6b63492b5d20a52)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages56.fotki.com%2Fv127%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F5768877%2FIMG_1475-vi.jpg&hash=86bf6ed23077992656408e6d6790a03d8af81234)
Franck
Who's the manufacturer, Franck?
Hi Fred, you can find them from the French Association "Le Cercle du Zéro" but you must be a member, or from the French shop L'Octant, #PR 102, qty : 2500, $20.00 ;)
Franck
Thanks, Franck.
Quote from: Franck Tavernier on March 27, 2011, 10:50:27 AM
Hi Fred, you can find them from the French Association "Le Cercle du Zéro" but you must be a member, or from the French shop L'Octant, #PR 102, qty : 2500, $20.00 ;)
Franck
Hi Franck ,
You don't fancy becoming a dealer in track spikes do you by any chance, and acquiring a load and then sell them on( with a small profit !) to the rest of us ?
Just a thought ,
Nick
Stop! Hee-hah! Whoa!
Is that photo of weed grown, dirt ballasted track -- next to a hedge -- real or a model? That's code 70 track and not 35 pound rail? Who built it, Franck -- you? Where is the giveaway that it is a model? Most satisfactory.
Russ
That's great Franck... very convincing. You wouldn't by any chance think of doing an SBS on your track laying, ballast and ground cover techniques? I expect there are many here who would find it of great value.
As far as dealing the spikes, only when Russ isn't watching... ;) Maybe what we need is an underground supply line, black market so to speak... ;D
Paul
Nick, if you want a set of spikes (2500) I can buy it for you, I owe you this favor!
Franck
Nick,
I can order and we share. €20,- is not much, a couple beers together cost more :D ::)
Jacq
Franck and I must have posted the nearly the same time ;D ;D
Quote from: finescalerr on March 27, 2011, 12:27:19 PM
Stop! Hee-hah! Whoa!
Is that photo of weed grown, dirt ballasted track -- next to a hedge -- real or a model? That's code 70 track and not 35 pound rail? Who built it, Franck -- you? Where is the giveaway that it is a model? Most satisfactory.
Russ
Thanks Russ for the kind words!
Franck
Quote from: W. P. Rayner on March 27, 2011, 12:38:43 PM
That's great Franck... very convincing. You wouldn't by any chance think of doing an SBS on your track laying, ballast and ground cover techniques? I expect there are many here who would find it of great value.
Thanks Paul! No problem, but no scoop here, only real earth, basswood ties, ME code 70 rail, model screw spikes, Mininatur short tufts and real weed tufts on the back ground....
Quote from: W. P. Rayner on March 27, 2011, 12:38:43 PMAs far as dealing the spikes, only when Russ isn't watching... ;) Maybe what we need is an underground supply line, black market so to speak... ;D
Paul
If you're interested by these model screw spikes, I can too by it for you...Let me know...
Franck
Quote from: Franck Tavernier on March 27, 2011, 02:01:46 PM
Nick, if you want a set of spikes (2500) I can buy it for you, I owe you this favor!
Franck
Franck ,
You are a star . I would very much like to take you up on your offer as I am sure that I can use them . However , I cannot for the life of me remember why you owe me a favour , and certainly not to the tune of 20 Euros . I feel I should be in debt to you for creating that wonderful Gmeinder loco , even though you cruelly sold it to Bernard Junk , and posting the photos of the timber track work of the French mining line back in 2008 . I still intend building some sort of layout based around those photos .
Nick
Quote from: jacq01 on March 27, 2011, 02:02:15 PM
Nick,
I can order and we share. €20,- is not much, a couple beers together cost more :D ::)
Jacq
Franck and I must have posted the nearly the same time ;D ;D
Jacq ,
Thanks for the offer . One way or another , either from you or Franck , I would greatly appreciate getting my hands on some . I'm sure there are other people who would also like some .
I can see this 1/35th scale lark becoming the new 0n30 . Except better ,
Nick
Franck --
The track you have shown is AMAZING! I agree with Russ ... is it real or is it model? No obvious way to tell. Outstanding!
M'aidez, SVP -- Is this the correct web site for L'Octant:
http://www.octantenligne.com/
It looks right! ??? But, I have searched the site and the catalogue without finding the PR 102. Any ideas?
Thank you!
Dallas
I couldn't find it either.
Franck,
That shot looks great. And the spikes are incredible. Hmm...I might have to order some as well. Let me know when you guys figure out who's going to be the distributor ;) ;D.
Nothing big, but started a base today, so I could refresh my skills and experiment with some materials and approaches. Hopefully I will be able to use it as a photo base. Not plannong any structures, just the track, a country dirt road, and some assorted details like signage and a stone distance marker.
Base is 2 sheets of 1" blue foam over 3/4" plywood, wrapped in basswood sheet. Foam was carved with a knife, and some very carefully brushed on MEK; and then painted with a coat of dilluted, and brown tinted Liquitex 'Modelling Paste" (this gives a nice thin "hard-shell" surface; while still wet, I sprinkled some cat litter in the road area to start some adding rocks and texture. After this had dried I did a base application of tile grout in the road area to further shape and form the shape of the ruts and berms. (sorry for the image quality..they were just quick snappies)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FBase_2.jpg&hash=3398929108fc7302577fe663a84d45fa292d3c73)
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Marc
Quote from: Malachi Constant on March 27, 2011, 06:58:25 PM
Franck --
The track you have shown is AMAZING! I agree with Russ ... is it real or is it model? No obvious way to tell. Outstanding!
M'aidez, SVP -- Is this the correct web site for L'Octant:
http://www.octantenligne.com/
It looks right! ??? But, I have searched the site and the catalogue without finding the PR 102. Any ideas?
Thank you!
Dallas
Hi Dallas,
Thanks for the kind words!
About the French shop, l'Octant, I rang them this afternoon, and bad news, this item is no longer available, the craftsman who made this screw spike does not produce it anymore!
L'Octant said they ask to this craftsman very often, when they will be able to launch a new run, but this craftsman does not answer...Honestly, to be profitable, quantities must be very important...and I think that this craftsman has other things to do...
Franck
Quote from: shropshire lad on March 27, 2011, 03:24:00 PM
Franck ,
You are a star . I would very much like to take you up on your offer as I am sure that I can use them . However , I cannot for the life of me remember why you owe me a favour , and certainly not to the tune of 20 Euros .
Nick, you sent me there are e few years ago, some plaster wall and tufts from a Poland shop samples...
Quote from: shropshire lad on March 27, 2011, 03:24:00 PMI feel I should be in debt to you for creating that wonderful Gmeinder loco , even though you cruelly sold it to Bernard Junk
Ah, ah, it's life, I sold the Gmeinder and the Deutz because I needed money...
Quote from: shropshire lad on March 27, 2011, 03:24:00 PM...and posting the photos of the timber track work of the French mining line back in 2008 . I still intend building some sort of layout based around those photos.
Nick, this project is always topicality! But, the lack of time for the hobby, doesn't help me in this project...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages43.fotki.com%2Fv1326%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F6865235%2FIMG_1423-vi.jpg&hash=23721e3a0e9616d680043e2b60c0d0a73a7d2d1a)
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I received last week my Fast track Sn3 tools to scratch my turnouts...Yes, Sn3 is 14.3mm track gauge and perfect to reproduce 50cm gauge in 1:35 scale! And 50cm gauge is the gauge used generally on mining line, and the French mining line "Les Eduits", was in 50cm gauge...
I need to do my track (wood ties, and steel ties - pressed ties and corrugated -) and of course my new gas locos...
Franck
Franck, The pictures you posted of the mining track running along the side of the hill are GREAT ;D
Great track work, indeed. It's high time you start the project, and maybe publish more pictures for others to dream, or perhaps to build.
In any case, looking at the track on these pictures, there doesn't seem to be tons of spikes, right?
Wow, that hillside (mining?) track is way too cool! Especially the roof to protect from falling rocks. Where is this track? Do you have more photos of it?
Franck has finally let the cat out of the bag and revealed where this mine is . I did some Googling and came up with a few extra pictures of "Les Eduit de Saint-Chaffrey " but nothing as good as we have already got .
I am rather reluctant to tell those not in the know where the rest of Franck's photos are for fear that someone else will use them before me (even though they are not my photos ) to incorporate them into a diorama or layout , but I figured someone less selfish than me would do it anyway so , what the heck . Go to the third last page ( at the moment page 20 )of the General Section and find the topic "New modeller with questions" and look at page2 . I have them all printed out ready to be transformed into the best looking layout ever built . Then I wake up !
Nick
Franck ,
It is a shame that the spikes are no longer produced , but thanks for enquiring for me/us . It looks as if we will have to come around to your house and relieve you of the rest of yours ! I shall just have to go back to my usual way , and cover the sleepers up with dirt .
I had forgotten that I sent you that stuff , it must be old age catching up with me .
I have started thinking about building a layout based around your photos more seriously over the last few months but I haven't come up with a suitable track plan that will work . Hopefully , I'll get there in the end .
Now tell the truth , have you giving us all of the photos you took of the mine or are you holding some back for your own use ? Can you give us a idea of what happens to the track either side of the snow shed ? It would be very interesting to know .
Nick
Those photos are fabulous! (Nick, remember to keep lots of trees in front of the cliff obstructing much of the view of the track and trains)
Pretty darn sure I've seen them before ... maybe here as Nick pointed out, but seems like I've also seen them on the Gn15 forum ... maybe Franck posted them there?
There are some lost wax brass NBW's and such that might stand in for those spikes ... but seems like those would get even pricier. (And plastic parts that would be suitable where the hardware isn't actually fixing the rail to the ties.)
Meanwhile, thanks for the inspiring trackwork and photos, Franck & Marc! -- Dallas
Oh no! 1:35 Scale Rulers again ...
Well, after the surprise with the "inchimals" on the Expo Tools ruler, I decided to call The Scale Card and order some of their rulers. Called on Friday afternoon ... the fellow said he might be able to mail them on Saturday ... and they actually arrived here (cross-country) on Monday. (I was really just hoping to reach him on Friday so he could mail them today!)
Pros & Cons: Posted a photo below ... the inch marks (12 to the foot!) are clearly marked and easy to read. The longer mark and number every third inch makes it really easy to take a visual measure. The metric side has a small mark every 2 scale cm and counts off every 10 scale cm. On the 6" and 12" rulers, the little inch marks go all the way out to the edge, which is good for marking. On the wallet card, all the marks are inset from the edge to allow for cutting of the cards.
Accuracy:
-- The 12" rule from Scale Card has 34'11" scale in 12" actual measure (checked against two other steel rules, excluding the Expo Tools one. Appears there's an error of approximately .025" actual in one foot actual measure.)
-- The 6" rule is closer to correct and appears to have less than .010" error in 6" actual.
-- The wallet card appears to be extremely close to accurate.
By comparison, the Expo Tools ruler with the funky "inchimals" (10 marks per scale foot) has 35'0" scale feet in 1 actual foot of measure. So I guess the best choice is to pick-n-choose based on what you're building ... and, of course, consider choosing one ruler and sticking with that to maintain consistency. (If you're building a door and a door frame separately, use the same ruler for both!) ;D
Web site is www.thescalecard.com -- note that they do NOT have secure on-line ordering. If any of my international buddies need these, let me know. I can order by phone and forward thru the mail.
Cheers,
Dallas
Quote from: Malachi Constant on March 28, 2011, 05:21:53 PM
Those photos are fabulous! (Nick, remember to keep lots of trees in front of the cliff obstructing much of the view of the track and trains)
Pretty darn sure I've seen them before ... maybe here as Nick pointed out, but seems like I've also seen them on the Gn15 forum ... maybe Franck posted them there?
There are some lost wax brass NBW's and such that might stand in for those spikes ... but seems like those would get even pricier. (And plastic parts that would be suitable where the hardware isn't actually fixing the rail to the ties.)
Meanwhile, thanks for the inspiring trackwork and photos, Franck & Marc! -- Dallas
Dallas ,
For me one of the main reasons for modelling this scene is that it would have lots of trees in the foreground making the viewer work harder to see the trackwork behind them . I know this tends to go against commonly followed practice of having the bulk of any trees on a layout at the back but as I've never built a layout by myself before I like to do things arse-about-face ( as we Brits say) .
I know I have posted the link to these photos several times before but I don't think they have reached the GN15Forum yet . But as I don't go there much these days I could easily be wrong .
Nick
If any of you guys is interested in Scale Card rules and has any hesitation, I have two comments: I endorse them without reservation. Jose Lopez, the owner, is a longtime advertiser and we are pretty friendly. He's as honest as they come and passionate about offering the best product in his field. I know about the issues he has had to overcome to produce an accurate rule. -- Russ
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on March 28, 2011, 01:13:03 PM
Wow, that hillside (mining?) track is way too cool! Especially the roof to protect from falling rocks. Where is this track? Do you have more photos of it?
Hi Ray,
This track is in France, it's the coal mining line "Les Eduits', near Briançon...And yes I have more photos... ;D ;D ;D ;D
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages33.fotki.com%2Fv1116%2Fphotos%2F1%2F1222910%2F6865235%2FIMG_1427-vi.jpg&hash=4d14c78b583c2afb451d99c96a92752871275a3f)
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Franck
Keep posting the photos , Franck . The last one is new to me . Is it an ore bin ?
Here is another one I found last night . However , I can't be certain that it is part of the same line .
Nick
Quote from: shropshire lad on March 28, 2011, 05:17:15 PM
Franck ,
Now tell the truth , have you giving us all of the photos you took of the mine or are you holding some back for your own use ? Can you give us a idea of what happens to the track either side of the snow shed ? It would be very interesting to know .
Nick
Hi Nick, no I haven't giving us all the photos. These photos were taken by my friend Olivier Joseph (all right reserved), a few years ago... That's why I do not post all the photos here...and don't forget, it's Marc's Subject!
After the snow shed it's the ore tram...
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Franck
Quote from: shropshire lad on March 29, 2011, 12:12:41 PM
Keep posting the photos , Franck . The last one is new to me . Is it an ore bin ?
Here is another one I found last night . However , I can't be certain that it is part of the same line .
Nick
Yes Nick, it's the same line! Where did you found it? On the Saint Chaffrey website?
It was the pit head zone...
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http://www.maplandia.com/france/provence-alpes-cote-dazur/hautes-alpes/briancon/les-eduits/
Franck
Quote from: Frederic Testard on March 28, 2011, 12:36:06 PM
Great track work, indeed. It's high time you start the project, and maybe publish more pictures for others to dream, or perhaps to build.
In any case, looking at the track on these pictures, there doesn't seem to be tons of spikes, right?
Hi Fred,
I started to work on this project, there are 3 years ago, by searching photos and documents... I must now begin to scratchbuild gas locos, track, rolling stock...
And yes, there is no spikes on this part of the track, but it's a little part of this line, and track is laid for the rest on...wood ties with tons of spikes ;D ;D ;D ;D :D :D
Franck
Franck ,
Yes , that photo was on the Saint-Chaffrey website , along with this one .
I am now slowly building a picture in my mind of how the line used to look like .Thank you for the extra photos .
Very interesting photos Nick and Franck... now that's a line just begging to be modelled.
Belated thanks for the offer on purchasing the spikes Franck. Keep us posted if they ever become available again. I may take you up on your offer if they are close to prototype for the Heywood lines, still checking on that.
Paul
Early on in this thread Marc mentioned "cement mixers" and I posted a few photos of one I intended to model.
Whilst doing some more research on this subject came across these photos last week
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2Fcementmixer1.jpg&hash=f5715ba9912c5946cbbba1ab81c422e49390995b)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2Fcementmixer2.jpg&hash=5b6e8594690a56530188ecf718489cfdc4c60b80)
There was something about this one which really appealed, although I think the overall rust finish is beyond my painting abilities it is interesting to see how the different planes and different steel/iron have rusted in different ways and colours. Decided that I would have a go at in 1/24 to go with my road roller. Having no lathe could not go down the route Marc has started on with his, so went back to draftsman days and thought I would play around with producing the mixing drum out of paper. Produced a few trial pieces and then made the mistake of getting involved with Dallas on the subject of scale rulers. with a 1/35 rule in my hand I noticed that one of my trial pieces was exactly right for a 1/35 scale model so that is what I have ended up modelling ( as well as a 1/24 version!)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2FCementMixer006.jpg&hash=3b7dde52d2e8b4c7ea304eec06a271a06ddb82fd)
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The beer bottle is the only 1/35 item I have to give some comparison shots, and the photos are quick & dirty ones at the bench.
Other than some Tamiya tanks I made years ago this is a new scale to me and I have struggled a bit to get things like the steel C frames to proportionally right, have scratched them from 20 thou strip but have thinned all the edges - would have been better starting with 10 thou but didn't have any in stock. The drum is made from paper and balsa, wheels from paper and rod, the rest from plastic strip.
Now that I am ending up with my only 1/35 scale model going to have to find a use for it, thinking of it abandoned at the the side of a building (maybe a Nissan Hut) bit of grass, bit more junk etc.
That is one sweet little model. A great scene addition. Looks like I may have to copy it. Thanks for posting this.
FWIW, I didn't build my drum on a lathe, (the lathe and me don't get along) I cut up the mixers from some matchbox type cement trucks. ;D
Marc
I really like it. -- Russ
Wow, if this were the worst thing I'd been blamed for causing, I'd be in really great shape! ;D
Started thinking "where'd you get those neat wheels?" and such while looking at the photos, then went on to read the descriptions. That's some really neat fabrication work there ... and that prototype is set in a perfect little vignette with a backdrop of weathered wood and an underlay of gravel, grass and fallen leaves ...
Will certainly look to more of your 1/35 madness. -- Dallas
Quote from: gfadvance on March 31, 2011, 12:10:12 AM
Early on in this thread Marc mentioned "cement mixers" and I posted a few photos of one I intended to model.
Whilst doing some more research on this subject came across these photos last week
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2Fcementmixer1.jpg&hash=f5715ba9912c5946cbbba1ab81c422e49390995b)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2Fcementmixer2.jpg&hash=5b6e8594690a56530188ecf718489cfdc4c60b80)
There was something about this one which really appealed, although I think the overall rust finish is beyond my painting abilities it is interesting to see how the different planes and different steel/iron have rusted in different ways and colours. Decided that I would have a go at in 1/24 to go with my road roller. Having no lathe could not go down the route Marc has started on with his, so went back to draftsman days and thought I would play around with producing the mixing drum out of paper. Produced a few trial pieces and then made the mistake of getting involved with Dallas on the subject of scale rulers. with a 1/35 rule in my hand I noticed that one of my trial pieces was exactly right for a 1/35 scale model so that is what I have ended up modelling ( as well as a 1/24 version!)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2FCementMixer006.jpg&hash=3b7dde52d2e8b4c7ea304eec06a271a06ddb82fd)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2FCementMixer005.jpg&hash=ccf7f9c641d76b394844c664955874eed34f5587)
The beer bottle is the only 1/35 item I have to give some comparison shots, and the photos are quick & dirty ones at the bench.
Other than some Tamiya tanks I made years ago this is a new scale to me and I have struggled a bit to get things like the steel C frames to proportionally right, have scratched them from 20 thou strip but have thinned all the edges - would have been better starting with 10 thou but didn't have any in stock. The drum is made from paper and balsa, wheels from paper and rod, the rest from plastic strip.
Now that I am ending up with my only 1/35 scale model going to have to find a use for it, thinking of it abandoned at the the side of a building (maybe a Nissan Hut) bit of grass, bit more junk etc.
Gordon ,
There's only one thing to do with it . Send it to me and I'll find a good home for it . Looking forward to seeing it painted up .
Nick
Glad you folks seem to like this little curio.
Nick, with the problems I have with painting it may well end up looking for a home!
Dallas, I still blame you - and my eyes hurt, how these people to like Anders produce master pieces in 1/87 is completely beyond me. Oh and I would terrified of trying to reproduce the weather wood in the picture, don't think it would be believed as reproducing the real world.
Marc, it was your mentioning of "turning" in your origonal thread that led me to assume the lathe work
Have not been able to find a picture of this mixer showing the power unit , although I think it must be similar to this one
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For the 1/35 model I will just go down the old and trusted route of the doors just slightly ajar, maybe will build the engine for the 1/24 version?
While this mixer will be rusted and abandoned its replacement may well be this one
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Nick, think this one would go with the compressor mounted on the "skip" frame you posted a while ago.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2FGermany20100531.jpg&hash=f2c0686bc82a6e8857279704e120dfd8b0f7e715)
Anyway managed another hour on this one so some more progress, promise I will dig out my proper lighting set up before I post any more photos.
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That thing is so ugly, its beautiful. Love the model! Saved to my files for a construction site scene I'll build in HO someday.
Hey Gordon,
I don't care whether you like it or not, I love it ;D :)
Really nce job and I'm sure the paint will come out just fine. ;)
Funny you should bring up mixers at this time, just yesterday I was up at the mill and wandering around out back when I came across this little jewel.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffreightsheds.largescalecentral.com%2Fusers%2Frick_marty%2F_forumfiles%2FGeneral%2Fmixer1.jpg&hash=e68a5102712a982cfc8e90cd30601549d09ca119)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffreightsheds.largescalecentral.com%2Fusers%2Frick_marty%2F_forumfiles%2FGeneral%2Fmixer2.jpg&hash=a4e54a9fb80bc11b6eb555e16b30021b99bc9fdc)
I haven't looked it over real close yet, have to cut some brush and move some junk to do that, but it is "hit-n-mis' power on what looks like a homemade frame. Will have to see.
Also this week I found the Pierce-Arrow and the Sterling, both of which I have been hearing about for 5 years and finally found them.
A couple of pictures.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffreightsheds.largescalecentral.com%2Fusers%2Frick_marty%2F_forumfiles%2FGeneral%2FPierceArrow%21.jpg&hash=db73fed6f4a6b522d5337072d35e3e6f726ed39c)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffreightsheds.largescalecentral.com%2Fusers%2Frick_marty%2F_forumfiles%2FGeneral%2FSterling1.jpg&hash=138f483a746e973fda743009669b8e7daf0ba4e4)
Remember these trucks hauled logs and lumber for this company on this property when they were new, well sort of new.
Later
Rick
Gordon -- Nice work! Cabinet with the doors ajar seems just fine. If your :o hurt, you might want to try an amazing, "modern" device called a magnifier -- or maybe just some reading glasses, as 1/35 really isn't that small. ;)
Rick -- Great pix! Thanks for posting those.
Cheers,
Dallas
Cool prototype, and really nice work so far on the model!
Rick; Great photos, thanks for posting them.
Gordon; I really like the character and shape of the drive box. This is a little gem. I think it would look perfect sitting in the weeds next to one of Nicks brick sheds. ;D
Not as exciting as whats been happening in this thread lately, but I have been experimenting a bit with some different approches/techniques for making kilometer marker stones, such as are found along rail lines and roads in Europe. There is a lot of variety in size and shape amongst the prototypes, however I wanted to focus more on the method, so I kept the shape pretty basic. The markers are 8.5mm wide, and made of strip styrene. Chipping done with an Xacto; texture done with a stiff brush wetted with liquid-cement, then some final clean-up with fine sandpaper. Painting and weathering done with Vallejo acrylics, MIG/CMK/Bragdons pigments, and MIG/AK washes.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FExperiments%2FStoneMarker_1a.jpg&hash=046f26bbd978f095e848ce1ff8d1e4586e92e836)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FExperiments%2FStoneMarker_2.jpg&hash=a165c98f0f7b8636bf267a2cc80a0b4d87299c03)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FExperiments%2FStoneMarker_3.jpg&hash=e464f5b7d987da9ee48459003effd5510260f458)
There's one more, but I still need to add the black numerals to it.
Marc
Very effective Marc, like the lichen effect and the general texture ........ vegetation is impressive, lots of variety rather than the more usual "grass", is it sourced from "Reality in Scale"?
Thanks for dropping the hint to Nick ! I will look forward to a little brick hut appearing thro' the post
Marc, I really like what you have done -- the whole thing: Track, dirt, vegetation, markers. Once again you have created a credible miniature version of reality, something most in the "model train" world seem to consider unnecessary. -- Russ
Thanks Gordon and Russ,
The vegetation was made with some stuff I had laying around. It's a combination of shreds of beige Silfor matting; some small grass tufts, and shreds of field matt from Mini-Natur; Some assorted shredded fine scenery foam, tree covering foam, and straight "grass" bristles from Woodland-Scenics. The two brodleaf blants were made from dried parsley leaves (painted w/ Vallejo acrylics), Oak leaves on track are from CMK (?) (painted w/ Vallejo acrylics), .....once on place the whole piece was drybrushed with varios shades/mixes of Vallejo green and yellow-beige acrylics, to tie it all together, and correct/tone down some of the harsh/odd color differences.
I just placed a large order with Mich Toy Soldier and Scenic Express for a bunch of scenery material.
Marc
Quote from: finescalerr on April 01, 2011, 01:42:42 AM
a credible miniature version of reality, something most in the "model train" world seem to consider unnecessary. -- Russ
If this were part of a layout or even a shelf layout, it would never get done....this little section of vegetation alone, probably took me about 2-hours. ::) :-\ ...maybe one would eventually get faster at doing it, or develop a system...but even then, I think a diorama is as far s one...at least me....would want to push it. Althought there are always guys that are nuts...like Nick and his Photo diorama.....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.migproductionsforums.com%2FphpBB3%2Fdownload%2Ffile.php%3Fid%3D5121%26amp%3Bt%3D1&hash=cfda4831757fac948c90a4b02fa635222539139c)
Marc
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 01, 2011, 01:57:31 AM
....this little section of vegetation alone, probably took me about 2-hours. ::)
Marc
Worth every second! Outstanding and inspiring results ... look forward to getting to that point eventually. Will be darned pleased if I can make it look anywhere near that good in twice the allotted time. ;)
-- Dallas
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 01, 2011, 01:57:31 AM
Quote from: finescalerr on April 01, 2011, 01:42:42 AM
a credible miniature version of reality, something most in the "model train" world seem to consider unnecessary. -- Russ
If this were part of a layout or even a shelf layout, it would never get done....this little section of vegetation alone, probably took me about 2-hours. ::) :-\ ...maybe one would eventually get faster at doing it, or develop a system...but even then, I think a diorama is as far s one...at least me....would want to push it. Althought there are always guys that are nuts...like Nick and his Photo diorama.....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.migproductionsforums.com%2FphpBB3%2Fdownload%2Ffile.php%3Fid%3D5121%26amp%3Bt%3D1&hash=cfda4831757fac948c90a4b02fa635222539139c)
Marc
Marc ,
I love your bit of scenicking , there is alot more thought and consideration gone into it than my effort . I must admit I rather enjoy doing this aspect of modelling as it is fairly mindless ( which I do well ) and with the right materials it is possible to get good results fairly quickly . The secret is having the right materials .
I think that there is an article , or two, on the sourcing and use of these newish materials , but finding the right publication to present it to is the problem . I have already started thinking about such an article but until I can find somewhere to publish it there is not much point starting it ,
Nick
Quote from: gfadvance on April 01, 2011, 01:31:20 AM
Very effective Marc, like the lichen effect and the general texture ........ vegetation is impressive, lots of variety rather than the more usual "grass", is it sourced from "Reality in Scale"?
Thanks for dropping the hint to Nick ! I will look forward to a little brick hut appearing thro' the post
Gordon ,
It's funny, but I wasn't thinking of doing that way round , but Hey Ho , I'll pop in the post later on today . The problem is that you are going to have to pay the postage and at £500 you might change your mind ,
Nick
Those are great mixers Gordon and Rick. Love the hit n miss power plants. Master Creations used to make a nice large HO one that worked well in O too.
Marc, those markers look very good. So do the veggies.
Thanks guys. Nick initially inspired me with his photo dio and brick buildings, and it was a dio SBS on the MIG forum by Gunnar Baumer ( http://www.migproductionsforums.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=7963&start=60 (http://www.migproductionsforums.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=7963&start=60) ), that fiunally got me off my ass and motivated to, start playing around with some scenery.
QuoteI think that there is an article , or two, on the sourcing and use of these newish materials , but finding the right publication to present it to is the problem . I have already started thinking about such an article but until I can find somewhere to publish it there is not much point starting it ,
Nick
Yeah...unfortunately I don't know anyone that publishes a mag, that has readers that would be interested in how to do scenery. Seeing that there are a number of guys here that do some really great scenery work, I definitely think that there would be enough material to do a couple of compendium technique/materials articles....or even small focused sidebars.
Nick, that actually leads to an interesting point...I know you started/posted a list of suppliers and materials you use...and seeing that there is a growing contingent of 1/35 here (other scales would benefit equally)...would you think it worthwhile to create a sticky thread in the Dioramas section containing informationa and lists of scenery materials and supplies...along with pics of each? Could do the same re. 1/35 Civilan figure and details. I know it might border on "free advertising" for the mfrs...so Russ would need to approve it...but it seems that questions re. these two subjects come up repeatedly....and it might be good to try and create a more compiled reference location.
Marc
There's a thread called "Fine-scale leaves, plants, vegetation (scenic / scenery supplies)" here:
http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1039.0
Starts with a compilation of links that Nick & I had posted previously ... then, of course, wanders on and off topic ...
Likewise, I started a thread for 1/35 civilian figures ... and anyone is free to add links there ... or we could just create "reference" threads for links, etc, only. IIRC, Nick, Philip, Ray and others had added links in that thread:
http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1077.0
Cheers,
Dallas
Dallas, thanks for that...sorry forgot about them....If it's okay with russ I will make the threads stickies and then go through and try to clean them up and purge any "wanderings".
Marc
Marc --
In that regard:
-- The "scenery" thread was intended as a REFERENCE / LINKS thread ... so a bit of clean-up there should do the trick.
-- The "figures" thread goes into customizing figures and such, and I'd like to keep that option for future posts ... (getting back to some figure work now)
-- So, I'd be happy to start a new REFERENCE thread for 1/35 Civilian Figures by sorting out what's already there into a more "pure" reference format ... including links that others have already posted, then we can include all the relevant stuff like Hornet heads, etc. (Well, actually, I'd be happy to do that after April 15th, as I have some other "filing" work to do!) ;)
Cheers,
Dallas
Dallas,
I just went through your civilian thread, and I agree...it should be left as is and a new/seperate one started...no worries, I will take care of it onc it's OK w/ O-ssuR-ly one. I think that wherever possible not only a linkj should be included, but a pic or a hotlinked image. The problem with links and linked pics is that they change....or dissapear...thus killing the usefulness of the post.
Marc
I would publish a scenery article like that in a heartbeat. If you want to do it we'll devote as many pages of a Modelers' Annual as necessary.
I also would happily spend two hours to achieve results as good as yours even if it were only for one square foot of a six or eight foot diorama/layout.
Russ
Hmm ... I do find it "curious" that Marc is showing an interest in 1/35 figures ... ???
Meanwhile, updated that reference thread with a lot more figure references ... I have a TON of notes on civilian details, furnishings, bits-n-pieces, etc ... but it will be a while before I can organize those.
Meanwhile, thanks for getting it started! (Can't litter the "reference" thread with these remarks, so I'll leave the litter here.) ;)
Cheers,
Dallas
Quote from: finescalerr on April 02, 2011, 01:37:53 AM
I would publish a scenery article like that in a heartbeat. If you want to do it we'll devote as many pages of a Modelers' Annual as necessary
Russ
Cripes , I'd forgotten about your publication , it is so long since I've seen one . Aren't you due to have a new one out soon ?
Nick
I would see any article on this subject as a collaborative effort using photos of work done by a number of different modellers who are happy to have them used .However , not necessarily contributing to the text if they don't wish to . I am thinking particularly of Per Olav who has done a number of rather splendid dioramas which have appearred on this Forum ,where the scenery plays a particularly important role .
I have done my bit by supplying a number of websites ! ...What ? You want me to do more ? Like build a specially commissioned diorama showing some these products to good effect ?
Nick
Couple of shots of, what I was going to say is the finished construction, but now that I seen the photos at this size think there may well be some rebuilding required.
Suppose like most of us I end up happy with about 70% odd of any model and while there is a lot I can live with think I'm going to have another go at the gear teeth both on the tilting mechanism and on the drum itself. The cogs/teeth for the drive mechanism might well have to be hidden by the ubiquitous tarpaulin, there is absolutely nothing wrong with them ..... they come from Dave's really useful laser cut parts as does the centre of the end drive wheel but on this model don't think I have used them properly.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2FCementMixer062.jpg&hash=a2c39ff0c1780bddabe1d40e6348255fc0a972a4)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2FCementMixer059.jpg&hash=1d9497b94c90c72d5494e4b7633be4c8f11cde2f)
And in case anybody goes back to look at the photos of the real one yes I am chickening out of trying to build a 1/35 scale chain.For a very brief moment did consider asking Dave if he could cut the side plates so I could build up the chain link by link. However I have already sent 3 or 4 requests to him, which he both speedily and patiently sorted out for me for which I have not yet done the artwork and I decided I wanted to keep a little of my sanity.
As a casual observer, I really find nothing at all disturbing about your model. Only were somebody to study it in comparison to a photo of the full size item might they notice any difference and, even then, I doubt most would care. I certainly don't.
Step back for a few days; you may find the model much more satisfactory than you do right now. (Especially after you complete the finish.)
Russ
I love it, the choice of subject matter was inspired, too. And always great to see my parts turning up in applications I never would have imagined, like this. Did you glue two gears back to back to build up the thickness?
Dave
I like it, but what the heck do I know?
All these little odd pieces really make a scene, too many models I see all have the same pieces and parts.
It just needs some attention of weathering (which would actually look like lack of attention!)
Looking forward to the chipped finish and dried cement!
-Marty
Dave, some frets of pairs or triples of some gears would be cool! (yea I know just order three! ;D)
It looks darn good to me. I don't see anything in the areas you mentioned, that needs changing.
Gordon --
Agree with the others ... and wonder if you're just staring too intently at this point ... or maybe it's that scary red primer that's throwing off the perception.
Did a b&w comparison of your prototype and model:
-- If you're trying to build an EXACT model, then there are a few minor things to change
-- If you're trying to capture the ESSENCE of the prototype ... you nailed it!
Cheers,
Dallas
Top Studio makes a 1/12 mortorcycle chain that will work and is link by link. It will fit, I am using it on a 1/32 project and it's perfect size! any smaller and I don't know how anyone could assemble it ?
Gil
Ken Hamilton made some photo-etched chain for his 1/24 scale lumber stacker. I have some pieces of that ... suspect that it's actually to big for your needs here. Width at the widest part of the link is about 3mm. Let me know if that works. Also, maybe Gil will post the size of the chain he mentioned. ??? -- Dallas
A most excellent job Gordon............. as ever!!
I'll agree with the general consensus here also;- "You're being a little too hard on yourself"!! YES, there is always the "enth" degree of modelling. But it's not a portrait or Museum model, this was designed and built to capture the "essence" of the machine. And to my mind you've done this admirably.
Regardless....................... an incredibly "Well done" from me.
Thanks for the replies, and the sound advice of "leave it along"
However I never have been very good at taking advice, and by the time most of you had typed it I had already taken apart the large cog and spent an enjoyable hour or so gluing 10 x 20 thou strips on edge around to form the teeth, and thinning the whole thing down a bit ...... and I am a lot happier now with it. Have also stripped off the gear teeth on the drum and will try a better effort on it tonight - photos will follow when it is all back together.
Dallas, thanks for the comparison black and white shot , hopefully you can do the same again when its sorted and maybe we will see a difference ?
Andi, :-[ honest, I have not forgotten will get to the Post Office sometime today, promise!
Rain has curtailed work so finished off corrections
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2FCementMixer071.jpg&hash=7739a002c1f8babfde54ef4479888e7d8cbad395)
if nothing else I am happier now ....... off to paint shop
Gordon ,
I must admit it does look better now that you have "fiddled" with it . However, you probaly need not have bothered as I am going to have that side against the wall of the brick shed so you won't really see the changes you have made . Still we will know , won't we !
Nick
Bloody hell Nick you might have told me, and I could have save myself saved all that work !
Oh nearly forgot, received a Tax Rebate today so only need to find another £489. 92 and I can afford the postage! failing that can you point me toward your thread about building brick by brick sheds
Of course it looks better; but it didn't look bad before. -- Russ
Quote from: gfadvance on April 04, 2011, 01:21:19 AM
Thanks for the replies, and the sound advice of "leave it along"
However I never have been very good at taking advice, and by the time most of you had typed it I had already taken apart the large cog and spent an enjoyable hour or so gluing 10 x 20 thou strips on edge around to form the teeth, and thinning the whole thing down a bit ...... and I am a lot happier now with it. Have also stripped off the gear teeth on the drum and will try a better effort on it tonight - photos will follow when it is all back together.
Dallas, thanks for the comparison black and white shot , hopefully you can do the same again when its sorted and maybe we will see a difference ?
Sure! First photo below is "before & after" for the model ... then a comparison of the prototype with the revised model. Glad you were able to get in there, as the changes are extremely effective. Now, of course, you'll want to study the LIGHTING on that prototype so you can get some nice shading and highlighting on your model! ;)
Cheers,
Dallas
Gordon, the new one is indeed better even if the first one was already excellent.
Sometimes you'll want to enter into this extra-work, others not. It's surely very personnal, and I think 50 people could have told you #1 was good without deterring you from making #2.
Quote from: gfadvance on April 04, 2011, 11:46:12 AM
Bloody hell Nick you might have told me, and I could have save myself saved all that work !
Oh nearly forgot, received a Tax Rebate today so only need to find another £489. 92 and I can afford the postage! failing that can you point me toward your thread about building brick by brick sheds
Gordon ,
Do you mean to say that you have been an inmate of this Forum for all this time and haven't come across the " Call me what you want , but don't call me mad " thread currently to be found on page 5 of the Modellers at Work section ? What have you been doing with your time ? Building models or something ?
Nick
here is the jig provided to assemble the chain, as you can see it's pretty small, I will measure it and let you know.
Gil
Gordon,
Been gone for a few days and just catching back up on your build.
I think the changes are a vast improvement (refinement) in the finished model.
Reading through the comments here, I have to add that, there is only one person that
has to be "satisfied" with the end result.
Just my 2 cents
Rick
Looks much better with the fine tooth gears.
8)
I agree, it does look much closer to the prototype now. Glad you were able to do that without too much additional work and without damaging the model.
Have had some discussions with Nick over my concerns over the size of the mixer i.e. whither I had scaled it right from the photos ............. here it is with one of the MK35 figures
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2FCementMixer086.jpg&hash=89a6482c6b59b669183cbbd649a304445fa63647)
Looking at it I still think I am a bit out, I based the dimensions on guessing the origonal had 18" wheels maybe would have been better assuming 16" but I can live with it.
I am going to start a new thread for this to cover the painting and building a base for it as I think it is getting a little a way from the concept of this thread.
Here is a bit of clutter, built for part of the mixer diorama ...... basically paper hardened with superglue, some of Dave's laser cut wheels with added paper rims, etc. Was done as an experiment as I was struggling to make scale 1/35 steels channels so thought I would try with thin paper .... one of the handles needs more work as I broke the origonal off, which then disappeared so this is a replacement.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FHand%2520Trolley%2FHandTrolley018.jpg&hash=c89eb325b5efae84aef4e9c29265d302d259b507)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FHand%2520Trolley%2FHandTrolley015.jpg&hash=2bb7da757b4a5258fa2e8c8fa03ab98dc1921148)
Brilliant!....great builds Gordon. You don't need to move the mixer....its perfect here.....unless you want a separate thread so it's easier to find. Besides inspired by yours I have started back on mine.....insta phone camera shot from the bench as I write this attached.
Marc
(ps. Let me know of you want a seperate thread, and I can split what you have already done off from this one.)
Fine by me Marc, I just thought it was getting a bit of a ramble for this thread ......... just leave everything where it is :)
Like the progress you are making on yours ......... that motor/drive unit is neat ... modified from a kit part?
Oh and where did you get the wheel centre from ? its got that cast iron look about it
that's a very cool figure! It must be high water season there? he's got those pants hitched up pretty high? I guess that's what i have to look forward to in my old age, it should really bug my son? : - 0-
MPH
gil
Excellent work from both of you! What else to expect from Marc and Gordon....... :o.... and Dave´s neat pieces seem to find a home in all sorts of places - believe I used those little wheels as well.
Anders ;D
Quote from: gfadvance on April 14, 2011, 07:55:03 AM
......... that motor/drive unit is neat ... modified from a kit part?
Oh and where did you get the wheel centre from ? its got that cast iron look about it
Gordon,
The arcd green part with the louvers on the motor/drive is a modified bonnet/hood from a 1/48 scale Lindberg car kit (can't recall which kit I pillaged it from)., the rest is black and white styrene.
The centre for the wheels (not as nice and delicate as yours,....as I was too lazy), are trimmed down and modified Grandt-Line cable sheaves. I ground down the outer sheave rims to the point I wanted, and also cut off one oth the axle nubs (where I then used/glued a large Grant-Line NBW to represent the hub and axle end).
I was originally planning to build the mixer with the tipical configuration of motor at sede and wheels at side (like is commonly seen today...however I made the mounting yoke (the cast white piece over the drum in the photo) about 1-2mm too wide...and at the moment I really don't want to go back and remake it...so am thinking of more of a two wheel carts, type of design...we'll see..the yoke width still bothers me...but I'm not sure if it's due to aesthetics, or my anal/neurotic nature. :)
Marc
Anders, from some one who makes the jewels of models that you do appreciate the positive comment.
Marc, thanks for the info, have to have a closer look at what Grant Line have available.
I'm a bit loathe to comment on the "yoke" as its a lot better constructed than mine but something looks wrong, it might be just the distance it is from back of the drum .... appreciated you are probable leaving room for the drive gear ( guess who had to remake his because this little fact ;)) or it could just be that I am looking at sort of upside down from the position it will normally be in ... but these yokes seem to usually be (covering myself here!) constructed so that they are a close fit as in this example
Gordon,
You are correct about the spacing being there for the gear. The photo that I was using for an example didn't have that nifty little bend in the yoke, like yours does....it had a flange mounted roller bearing (for lack of a better description) on the inside of the yoke, this caused the drum to be spaced like that, hence the support flanges in the extended drum shaft/bearing of the yoke. I am not following a single photo for reference, rather three...the drum and yoke assembly from one, and the cart detailing from the other two...don't know why...but probably, because it makes it easier for me to just mindlessly putter along. ;D Your question caused me to look back through my refernce material, and thus I think I have now discovered a way to mitigate the extra 1-2mm space. THANKS! :)
Marc
As I am trying to put off getting the air brush out to paint the mixer .... it just irritates me that it takes me 20 minutes to set everything up, mix paint and clean up afterwards for about 30 sec of actual spraying .......... so decided to continue to build little bits to add to the clutter around it.
All the old yards I have ever seen always seem to have a garden roller buried in the undergrowth , even when there isn't a lawn or garden in site .
So here is my take on one, trying to give it a sort of Edwardian feel about it ..... as usual used some of Vectorcuts bits here and there to add a bit of decoration to it ( must buy shares in that company ;D) again construction is my usual mix of microstrip & paper hardened with superglue.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FGarden%2520roller%2Fgardenroller003.jpg&hash=6dd0bad05573b50095216f3828bfc3e0ea4c9d6b)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FGarden%2520roller%2Fgardenroller010.jpg&hash=59bed03e941ed41a267a892273bed82af366c2c2)
Still thinking about adding the wooden handles, these are the bits that normally break hence the rollers being abandoned.
Going to add a couple of wheel barrows, have built them before in 1/24 but 1/35 will be a different challenge and I have a couple of other ideas.
Interesting and unusual ... as usual from you, Gordon. Keep 'em coming! ;D -- Dallas
Gordon, Another little beauty.
Gordon also brow-beat me into re-doing the yoke for my cement mixer. The first go around with the too long yoke, is at the top; the new/ second, try is the bottom one. The new one is about 3.5mm narrower, I added a slight bit more radius detail at the inside and outside corners, and offset the drum mount/axle (as per one of the reference photos I was working from). The oil cup is a 1/35 sight/eye-piece from an armor kit, and the adjusting bolt is a modified Grandt-Line NBW. Casting number decals are from Archer.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FDetail_Parts%2FMixer_Yoke.jpg&hash=5286ac49e8f7d397d39aab9c4bb9297084e1e0a0)
Marc
That looks great, Marc. Amazing how much detail one can put into such a simple component.
Nice details Marc, I need to add some oil cups to mine so all I need to do is buy a couple of 1/35 armour kits for a couple of bits about 3mm in size ::)
Out of interest what thickness of plastic card are you using, I use this little guide I made to try and keep my little bits in scale ........... I appreciate its not overly accurate I just rounded up or down to the nearest thickness of card v typical imperial real life sizes.
Yeah, that's a good estimate ... I really ought to print that out, as I'm always doing that in my head when working with styrene ... or plasticard! ;D -- Dallas
I have a little program that I use for scaling. Called ScaleCalc. I put up a copy on a file-sharing service ..
http://www.gigasize.com/get/f44kd5stvjd
It's an .exe file. I checked it with Norton before uploading and it got a clean bill of health.
It will convert dynamically between two scales or a scale and prototype. You can also edit the scales, add new ones, delete whatever as you wish. It works great.
Quote from: gfadvance on April 17, 2011, 05:26:30 AM
Nice details Marc, I need to add some oil cups to mine so all I need to do is buy a couple of 1/35 armour kits for a couple of bits about 3mm in size ::)
Out of interest what thickness of plastic card are you using, I use this little guide I made to try and keep my little bits in scale ........... I appreciate its not overly accurate I just rounded up or down to the nearest thickness of card v typical imperial real life sizes.
Gordon,
Do I detect some sarcasm re my bits? ;D. You don't need to buy kits just for the parts (though I admit to doing so on far more than one occasion)....you just need to start about 30 or so kits where you end up kitbashing or scratch-building a large portion....and there you have it....instant boxes of junk that you can spend endless hours sifting through for one 3mm part that you could potentially adapt.
For the yoke I used .010 and .015 (closer to .013 after sanding) strip and sheet stock. I made a sim table to yours that hangs on the back of my bench. I included a column for 1/48 as well, as I do still build the occasional item in this scale, and it helps me quickly convert/approximate pre-cut O-scale stripwood sizes to 1/35. (I need to add an HO col. as well, as I frequently use HO stripwood for 1/35).
Marc
That scale chart is a good idea. I should do one up in 1/24th, would save me a little time trying to remember (or recalculate) scale dimensions of standard styrene strips.
My son found this for me on the web ............ looks like I should add a few bits to my mixer .............. oh and I need to come up with a good reason why this American mixer is sitting abandoned in deepest UK.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2FAB1_033_1.jpg&hash=c1ecac0b073d6bede2965e5b6e1cad4a4f84df8a)
Quote from: gfadvance on April 18, 2011, 12:58:45 AM
My son found this for me on the web ............ looks like I should add a few bits to my mixer .............. oh and I need to come up with a good reason why this American mixer is sitting abandoned in deepest UK.
It was brought over during the war and some local lads managed to wrangle a deal with the Yanks in exchange for a case of Scotch...
Paul
Paul, I was thinking along the same lines....but maybe itwas just laft behind by the Yanks after the war, "surplus materiel"...costs more to take it home than to have it clutter up the Limey countryside.
Gordon; Though the machines on that page are neat, I don't think you need more stuff on the machine...attached are to pics of ...sorta, kinda, maybe, the vaugest feel of yours....if you squint real hard.....at least sizewise....and they don't have more stuff.
Marc
Here are two mixer images just for fun...note the top one is hand cranked and belt driven.
These images are croped from a "3-1" CD of road construction and construction machinery catalog PDF's, sold by Darryl Huffman. (unfortunately I dont have his site adress anywhere, the CD was $15.00)
..and for Gordon....so he doesn't forget to build the concrete cart.
http://www.darrylhuffman.50megs.com/custom3.html
-Younger
Marc, thanks for the pictures, all added to the "mixer" file ............ they all have character, although the hand powered one must have been hard work !
Younger, thanks for the link .....could not resist and have ordered up the CD Marc mentioned.
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 19, 2011, 02:24:52 AM
..and for Gordon....so he doesn't forget to build the concrete cart.
Thanks, getting your own back now, shouldn't have mentioned the yoke should I ?
Actually just about finished a wheelbarrow that is very close to the one in the picture, and yes I am going to have to have a go at the other one ........ seen this type before but did not realise that they were used for moving cement.
However feel I should bring it to your attention that I am not the only one building a mixer so I expect to see a reciprocal gesture from you ;D
Younger
One thing, in http://www.darrylhuffman.50megs.com/custom3.html, you might have warned me about the X rated images on the contact page :o :o
Nick appears to have escaped from the corner
This little drop bottom concrete cart caught my eye.
Chester. That reminds me just a bit of the coal carts kit from the Train Troll (http://www.traintroll.com/ocoalcartkit.html). While I have no intention of using them to transport coal .. I think they will work great for my coke oven bank (I got three). There was an "ash boy" .. "After all the ovens included in the day's run have been drawn, a cart is driven along the block of ovens, and the ashes and refuse coke are collected from each oven and carted to the ash dump"
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.traintroll.com%2Fimages%2Fcoalcartempty.jpg&hash=c5a7acaab43604376627ecccec741c37da8f5ccd)
Know you model HO. He has a really cool little Fish Cart in that scale (http://www.traintroll.com/hofishhandcartkit.html) ..
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.traintroll.com%2Fimages%2FHOfishcarts.jpg&hash=1c19be45adb6223afeda5f850a1d502df0790bc2)
That is decent modeling. -- Russ
Ed; Those are some cool little carts.
Here is some more inspiration/reference for small clutter builds.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FReference%2FAlamoIronWorks_ConcreteCart_Resized.jpg&hash=bd086dbb8c3fdd73d69ea904e590b479129ad401)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FReference%2FClydeIronWorks_ConcreteCarts_Resized.jpg&hash=895a58a5ad9f7f9c9dcdc7646e2fa8be7fd1c747)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FReference%2FQueenCitySupply_ConcrreteCarts_Resized.jpg&hash=01a2b5060b1293ccfbddc71804b8b40832e38426)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FReference%2FQueenCitySupply_MortarCart.jpg&hash=d8a25ae05a8cc83eab6c4893b798ce34f91d7e3b) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FReference%2FQueenCitySupply_BrickCart.jpg&hash=c182ac7dc15e306553a3f00cdbe5a957c5103e15)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FReference%2FClydeIronWorks_JaegerConcreteMixer_Resized.jpg&hash=5e1493c3a2cd49992be8e9f525e7cd8fe8057163)
M
These catalogues you have Marc are really useful ... both for ideas and the fact that they give some basic dimensions .............. I can now fill in the gaps on these from my files
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2FMyJaegermixer5-1.jpg&hash=8a7ec222ff2b6e1c2ec0f1e4ea0572fe4f8f3980)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2FMyJaegermixer3-1.jpg&hash=e6d60be06c823da00fa4c778adeaad7377f5fd47)
I am now trying to track down some copies of similar catalogues or sales literature for stuff produced in the UK .........as somebody has told me we used to build things :o
Gordon,
Glad they're of use. Have some more mixers to post..just need to reduce and watermark the scans. My problem is that I am starting to get too many of these "general equipment catalogs", and can't remember what's in what (or where I put them). :-\ ::)....plus they are getting rabid with bookmarked pages of "someday" projects.
Those Jaeger mixer images are great. I have been using those exact ones for reference on building the frame and handwheel mech for mine. I think however I am going to have to change it a bit, and use a channel instead of an angle for the main frame runners (I like to avoid wherever possible using the premade styrene angles on small stuff, as the proportions and thicknesses are too off/heavy...and I don't feel a scratched angle will have enough strength/deflection resistance for the superstructure weight, over time).
BTW. Thanks for those Lister images. Wonderful.
Marc
Marc, Those buggies on the previous page are also called georgia buggies. Do you have any photos? they were rubber tired in lieu of the steel wheels, I suppose more modern era :-\
Philip
Phillip,
Which buggy are you referring to?....the concrete carts?...if so, yes I have one from the c. 1930-40 Honolulu Iron Works catalog, with rubber tires....let me know and I'll post it.
M
After working all day today, I took some time to do a quick and dirty little build of the brick cart I posted earlier. Shell is heat formed .010"/.254mm styrene, handles are .8mm brass tubing, wheel, is a cut down Grandt-Line Cable sheave. I'ts still missing the two front legs/stands. It's nothing great, but it will work fine amongst the weeds, or in a corner with other junk.
Bricks are made from strip styrene, textured with an xacto and liquid cement.
Marc
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 24, 2011, 09:06:21 PM
Phillip,
Which buggy are you referring to?....the concrete carts?...if so, yes I have one from the c. 1930-40 Honolulu Iron Works catalog, with rubber tires....let me know and I'll post it.
M
yes, the concrete cart & do post a pic please.
thanx...
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 24, 2011, 05:11:17 PM
I think however I am going to have to change it a bit, and use a channel instead of an angle for the main frame runners (I like to avoid wherever possible using the premade styrene angles on small stuff, as the proportions and thicknesses are too off/heavy...and I don't feel a scratched angle will have enough strength/deflection resistance for the superstructure weight, over time).
Marc
Having just started in 1/35 I have noticed this as well, tried to get round it on the trolley by using paper but its not ideal, tried 5 & 10 thou strip joined but a shade too much liquid glue and you end with a molten mass and I have found it difficult to keep everything straight. Just ordered up some 2 x 1 mm brass "l" shaped and some 4 x 2 mm channel to see if it is fine enough - never been very good working with brass but will give it a try.
Your brick cart looks good, I was thinking of using brass shim for the concrete cart so that I could add some dings to it but maybe heat formed 10 thou card is the way to go.
Glad I am not the only one who has had to work everyday of the holiday weekend ???
Gordon; I would probably use the plasticard for the concrete cart as well...but then I can't solder worth beans. ::) :)
Philip; attached is the cart from the HIW catalog. HTH.
Marc
Marc, why is it that whenever you build one of your little weekend projects everyone gets inspired? -- Russ
Thanks Russ....but I'm just acting on my inspiration from Gordon's work...and trying to keep up with him....otherwise he'll build all the cool stuff before I even get a shot at it. ;D
Marc
Marc, your "quick and dirty" little brick cart looks pretty darn good!
Just I found this nice picture on the web from a beton mixer of 1931 (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lOd4OP_v0FM/SuNhETAJB9I/AAAAAAAAAro/9uan0L02XvY/s1600-h/282_Hauptstr_34_B%C3%A4ren_R_Lotterer_Bauarb_1931_blog.jpg) in action.
here I found it: http://gv-eningen.blogspot.com/2009/10/hauptstrae-im-jahr-1931-kanalisierung.html
Frithjof
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 25, 2011, 02:26:38 PM
....otherwise he'll build all the cool stuff before I even get a shot at it. ;D
Marc
I wish, think I am more the follower than leader ;)
Marc, could you give the rest of us a few hints as to how you produced the really neat little brackets for holding handle on to the body of the cart. I use various ways of doing it ranging from just gluing and bending in situ, to moulding strips around a former but none seem to work consistently .......... yours seem sort of nicely "mass produced".
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBrickCartiii.jpg&hash=1204d299f82051c9d3e730f5ba4ae910c9ca3284)
Frithjof; That is a cool picture. Thanks for posting it and the link.
Gordon; Thanks, but I just sort of winged them, and got lucky. IMO they are a bit too thick (.010") I should have made them out of strips of Magic-Sculpt...but didn't have the time. I basically took a piece of the rod and bent a short strip of.010x.040 over it...this gave me the general center bend, then I laid the rod on my cutting matt/work-surface, laid the now unbent strip over the rod...so that the center of the pre-bent area was on the rod, then used a pair of pointed tweezers (the inside edges of the jaws on these tweezers has a slight radius on them so it doesnt cut/indent the strip) I tightend the strip down around the rod, so that I got a nice tight fit around the rod, and crisp bend at the work surface. I then simply trimmed the strip on each side to give the flange size I wanted, then blued it in place on the model (the rod handles had already beed tacked in place with ACC). The first three brackets worked easily on the first try, but the fourth one must have torn/split about 4 times while bending over the rod during forming, or when the glue touched it while setting in place,....finally it worked...but then when I tried to soften/form it a bit after it was placed, it developed a small split...hence the grey putty on the lower bracket in the image. (This is where a PE part would really have been welcome ::) ;D )
Marc
Another methode to make this type of brackets;
fix the fitting rod to a smooth surface, take a suitable ( pending scale) strip of Evergreen styrene, hold it over the rod and warm/heat it gently with a soldering iron.
the styrene will fold over the rod and the "ears" are formed by pushing the strip into shape on the smooth surface with a small screwdriver, dril the holes for the bolts/rivets and the bracket is ready.
Jacq
why not use a piece of strip brass instead of the plastic?
or even some metal foil?
just my 2 cents......
-marty
Jacq, Marty
Thanks, both your methods are what I was going to experiment with next! & Marty think the metal route might be for me .... got some fine brass shim which I'm going to anneal and then try.... I like working with plastic its a bit more forgiving for my skill level but think I should use more metal as it has some better properties than plastic when cold forming/bending
Marc, makes feel a bit better that your brackets split when forming or glueing them thats what kept happening with mine.
We'll see what you all think when I post the pictures of the concrete cart!
Gordon, an alternative for a soldering iron, dip the strip styrene in some hot water ( 70-80 degr C).
Jacq
Jacq,
just tried this dipped a piece of micro strip into near boiling water and the formed around tube .......... seems to work perfectly, no splits, no spring back and most importantly repeatable .......... thanks.
Still going to have a try with brass shim, as the stuff I have is even thinner than 5thou plasticard so be interested to see if I can work with it and how the finished article looks.
know this is not the right place to post this but seems ideal for this thread......... new issue from MK35
http://www.mk35.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&category_id=15&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=433&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&lang=en
Interesting "kit" thats a hell of a lot of milk!
Where's the cookies?
But I would bet any of us could scratch one!
-Marty
Wow! Lots of cool little carts and creations going on here ... keep 'em coming!
Anders -- Since "/img]" appears at the start of your post, I'm guessing that you didn't complete the text properly or something ... maybe a copy-n-paste gone wrong?
Cheers,
Dallas
Gordon, here is another one Swedish style. Maybe too weathered ???? Can shoot more pictures if you like.
Anders ;D
Thanks Dallas don´t know what went wrong.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj344%2Ffiffistorp%2FForum%2520pictures%2F20110424_37.jpg&hash=1f0df040c05e2b69b4aa675582b546fe352e3edc)
The secret weapon to deal with Anders "clutter", may well be parachuted into Sweden to flatten such things as piles of bricks and old pallets!
Came across these on Flicker and everything else got pushed of the bench.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F3391329313_156449bf5e_b.jpg&hash=aa35a950472623132767f13ce88984a62bf8f074)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F3392141350_4e85ec41d9_b.jpg&hash=0eed12d683873d013ac6db05b698c853a6d6759a)
Here is my interpretation so far, masters for moulding the bonnet/hood and the inside of the rear wheels are done so hopefully will be finished this week-end although some f the detail make take a bit longer.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F135roadroller035.jpg&hash=d60daa888de09759e311975a9ba2e9d5913f28b8)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F135roadroller040.jpg&hash=1ae7b4a728330bd3a36e316c35792d3ba8edddae)
Thinking about the paint finish, which was really the reason I had to model it, so there may well be a list of questions posted shortly
Damn you Ferguson!.....you have not heard the last of ME! ;) ;D
I have those exact images (plus a few more of that machine) in my "To Build" file.
I love this particular machine..and as you note, the coloring is wonderful.
Looks like you're off to a great start!. Most sweet!
Marc
Marc you need to find the positive in the situation and not let anger rule your life :D At least you probably have already thought about the paint finish so when I ask the questions you will the answers!
Oh and before I push you completely over the edge, is this one on on your list or can I build it as a companion to this little one
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F308.jpg&hash=9e9c5393157262355972d39a98140f90da756404)
Well, in response to that first one under construction: Show-off! (BTW, which scale?)
And that little blue one is awfully cute ...
Cheers,
Dallas
Don't you just love how Gordon slipped that in so nonchalantly? Wonderful styrene work, that piece needs a thread of it's own.
Hi Dallas,
the last roller I built was to 1/24 but this one.... and what other scale is there at the moment ........... is 1.35 ish, with no plans and only 4 photos lets just say there is a bit of artistic interpretation i.e. guesswork. I believe it was classed as a small roller, less than 5 tons, used on pavements, small roads, etc.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F135roadroller041.jpg&hash=ff97aa12f38537ec84aa92ec153d645aeb28b1f5)
Just to give you CAD, Sketchup, etc users a laugh here was my first working drawing for it
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F135roadroller001.jpg&hash=c7a10820eaab517c9af6066ccda9b3899142dad2)
How quaint.
Chester, its more fun to post on this thread, just keeps Marc quietly simmering!
Hm... first the buoy that somebody thought looked familiar now this....... ;D ; ;). Excellent work so far Gordon. The paint job will be just the challenge that you are capable of handling.
Anders ;D
Wow..............a hand made drawing. ;) no computer help ?
And you were able to built it in scale from that drawing without laser cut or printed parts ? ;D
My compliments, very nice work.
Gordon, this looks very good. Why don't you send it to Marc for the paint work ? ::) ;D ;D
Jacq
Cool beans! -- Russ
Marc ,
It is a pity you live in the wrong part of the World as you could have come over to my house in July and seen the FINISHED ( no pressure eh Gordon ) road roller in the flesh . This is because my new BEST friend Gordon is coming along with my other BEST friends Barney and James to discuss important things .
Such a shame you can't come as you could have been one of my other BEST friends !
Nick
Sorry...I already have 152 Best Friends (or so facebook wants me to believe) ;D ;D ;D ;D
July hmmm.....tempting....unfortunately my travel/vacation schedule for the year has already been decreed by a higher power. ;D So unless it's work related it's no additions are permitted.
Marc
I would have thought "speciality brickwork", twisty brick chimneys, etc would have easily justified a business(tax deductible) trip.
Although from the sound of it, its getting awfully crowded with all his best friends ;D
I have been informed that there is a difference between "tax deductable" and "paid/reimbursed by client".....the first not being an acceptable reason to extend the decree.
Marc
Oh well , never mind , we'll just have to try and make the most of it without you. Obviously it'll be a lesser gathering but we'll do our best ,
Nick
Those are both great rollers with lots of character! I'm especially fond of the little blue one. As Dallas points out, it's rather cute.
Looks like you're off to a good start on the green one already.
Well Marc as you do not seem to have a claim on the "blue one, I'm taking silence in a positive way ;) it may well end up as a companion piece.
Anyway surprised that you did not just lay the law down and say you were going .............. so are you just like the rest of us after all :D
Is there one "go to" place for 1/35 or (dare I say) 1/32 bits pieces & clutter?
I want to finish the corliss diorama and would like to get some barrells, tools, and stuff at a one stop shop as I will likely not do this scale again (yea right)
Appreciate the help.
May be once I finish the Willy I can post some pics here of my 1/32 crap.
-Mj
Quote from: lab-dad on May 28, 2011, 01:34:47 PM
Is there one "go to" place for 1/35 or (dare I say) 1/32 bits pieces & clutter?
I want to finish the corliss diorama and would like to get some barrells, tools, and stuff at a one stop shop as I will likely not do this scale again (yea right)
Appreciate the help.
May be once I finish the Willy I can post some pics here of my 1/32 crap.
-Mj
Well, there are a million separate makers and such ...
Think the best / biggest selection I've found in one place is BnA Model World in Australia:
http://www.bnamodelworld.com/military-section/diorama/scale-135/misc?&page=1
Default shows prices in Australian dollars (AUD), but you can change that. Site shows whether or not items are in stock. Ordered from them a couple of times ... take about 10-14 days to US.
Panther-Models in the UK has a decent variety, including Plus Model items:
http://panther-models.com/
Note that if you're in the US, you'll get the lower ("ex VAT") price shown. Ordered from the too ... takes about 5-7 days to US.
In the US, Scale Hobbyist has a decent selection, discount prices and quick delivery:
http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Objects/index.php
Page above will take you to "objects" (details) and you can sort from there. Ordered lots of things from them. Quick service. Also, there's an option to "Add to Watch List" (instead of Add to Cart) on the various pages -- if you do that, then you can sort of bookmark items that you "might" want and then see them all in one list. You don't have to log-in to use the feature -- it just creates a cookie with the info.
These guys all have 1/35 stuff ... maybe some 1/32. Might just have to bug Mr. Coldicott to make everything you need in 1/32! ;D
Cheers,
Dallas
One of the biggest suppliers that I have found in the US, with very good service and selection is:
Great Models http://www.greatmodels.com/ (http://www.greatmodels.com/)
They're pretty much the only broadscope US supplier that I use, other than Michigan Toy Soldier.
Otherwise, and as always, I highly recommend Jadar Hobbies in Poland. Hard to near impossible to beat their selection and prices (and that's including shipping that they are almost always less)...they take paypal, and credit cards. Service has always been A+ from them.
Lastly I would recommend Hobby Link Japan....they carry a lot of stuff that is hard to find and that others don't carry.
Marc
Quote from: gfadvance on May 27, 2011, 07:45:55 AM
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F135roadroller041.jpg&hash=ff97aa12f38537ec84aa92ec153d645aeb28b1f5)
Just to give you CAD, Sketchup, etc users a laugh here was my first working drawing for it
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Gordon,
not laughing, 'cause I too do not use any CAD, Sketchup etc. ... yet ;) ..., but wondering, how you manage to cut everything in shape so well?
Do you use only styrene strips ... or do you cut the strips from styrene sheets? And how you get your cuts straight and "left and right parts" so equal, that they are congruent with each other when glueing them together? Even when I use a steel ruler and a cutter, the cuts sometimes seem not to be straight cut or the parts seem to differ about a half millimeter. ??? ::)
Therefore I tried to make drawings with MS PowerPoint®, printing them out on selfadhesive paper, putting the drawing on a styrene sheet, then cutting along the lines and pulling of the selfadhesive paper again ...
BTW: For the round parts you use a circular cutter, I assume ... ?!
Kind regards
Hi Gerald,
just goes to prove that photos can lie ........... in real life there are plenty on non-identical bits and bits not at right angle believe me.
I tend to use mostly pre-cut micro strip suppliers Evergreen, Plastistruct ......... occasionally I cut my own but cutting say a 1mm wide strip from 5 thou plastic card is not particularly easy and it can be difficult to stop strip curling. for identical parts I tend to either use a rubber cement or double sided tape to stick 2 bits of card together and then cut the bit out, sand and adjust then pull 2 pieces apart. Most circular parts cut out using dividers with sharpened points, score plastic and then snap free.
Following may help
No intention of doing SBS on "roller" as mostly its pretty straight forward but thought the wheels might be of interest and may help somebody out there ...... no idea how but maybe.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F135roadrollerwheels005.jpg&hash=0c5f53d4a2f02271c7f7d5ddbaea64a3169d42de) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2Fimage003.jpg&hash=005af6db656a15a14a5720a2d496743ec504e9f7)
The wheels are just a standard build , 2 discs cut out plastic card , axle tube and the outer skin made by pre-formed card.
The only thing I would mention here is that you should never leave a completely enclosed space when using plastic card and solvent glues, either leave a gap somewhere or drill a hole for ventilation as the vapours can continue to soften the plastic for a number of days in an enclosed space.
For this model model I wanted to form an inner radiused curve on the inside of the wheels so I insert the outer piece from the front of the wheel.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F135roadrollerwheels006.jpg&hash=1bf0b90b7377a23e64d7088e6630795031c6a417) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F135roadrollerwheels007.jpg&hash=939ec08326adcda98b3df5b40e4bf4213e0d06c8)
This is the male mould I used , made out of 2 discs of plastic card and soft balsa sheet. Sanded to profile and about 5 thou smaller than the outer radius of wheel and then the balsa hardened off with superglue.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F135roadrollerwheels002.jpg&hash=41033110b651dd22f6bb772d84ce70761e6aac9c) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F135roadrollerwheels001.jpg&hash=936014a760bd224e0a92ae0a7e44742f45b5a265)
The female part of the mould was just a circular hole, plastic was then clamped over the hole , normally I heat this in an oven but for this small part I just carefully warmed it over the gas ring and then pushed male mould through hole.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F135roadrollerwheels004.jpg&hash=022407d5299e598d8f6353bc1dbfbdc595bf74d9) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F135roadrollerwheels003.jpg&hash=295dd13f5f3c7f3d81b55ee9945dda9d1894d665)
Moulded plastic is then roughly trimmed ,slipped into wheel, glued and finally trimmed and finally sanded to shaped - then detail parts added
Quote from: gfadvance on May 29, 2011, 05:37:56 AM
just goes to prove that photos can lie ........... in real life there are plenty on non-identical bits and bits not at right angle believe me.
... phew! ... :o ... makes me feel a whole lotta better ... ;D
Thanks also for your explanations and the "nearly SBS" ... very much appreciated!
Massive cheers
Very good fabrication. Traditional methods still work just fine, thanks. -- Russ
Smashing good job! ;D
Neat work on making a pretty simple job out of that "complicated" wheel, too. -- Dallas
Gordon,
Nice job on the roller.
Those wheels are neatly done.
Rick
Gordon,
Ummm...errr...any chance your guys would consider dabelling in some industrial espionage and scanning/emailing me a copy of those drawings? Would make my like a whole lot easier. ;)
Marc
I wonder if dabelling is anything like dabbling ...
Marc, now I know you are being sarcastic or something?
You do realise the drawing is hand drawn, in pencil, with mistakes rubbed out, etc, etc ?
OK I'll ask the guys if its still around and not been tossed with the rest of the rubbish ;)
OK they found the drawing before it was dumped and it has been updated with modifications following actual build .............. I'm told it has been sent to you, let me know if has come thro' OK.
Marc,
don't know if you received the drawing, but having made a bit more progress I would suggest some further amendments to it;-
First of all I would narrow the whole body (plan view) by approx 5mm and although not clear from the photos I would taper the engine compartment by a further 5 mm .... suggest datum line for new width is across the line of the pivot point for the front roller. In addition would shorten body again from pivot point , so that it extends no more than 3 mm in front of pivot.
Think when you look at these 2 photos you will see why I am suggesting these modifications
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F3391329313_156449bf5e_b-1.jpg&hash=4eb25c0c12c586cf0cdd178742f86f9da1d22c68)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F135roadroller061.jpg&hash=ad21fdcfbaefed7988c0ada670cc0c650714b6eb)
Unless I scrap the thing not much I can do about the overall width or the the taper of mine at this stage but have rebuilt nose a little shorter
Evening all,
OK the roller is 95% built, still need to add stuff like foot plates , controls , cables, scrapers for the wheels, etc. These are all made but are fragile to say the least so until I got the first coat of primer on to see what still needed cleaning up/correcting.
There are some rough spots which deliberate but there are some which are not ......... the most obvious are the rear wheel guards where I wanted to have some rusted through metal but which have just ended up plain wrong ... will be sorted.
Some photos, still trying to improve my efforts in this area ... think I still need some extra/brighter lights.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F135roadroller067.jpg&hash=18f90aadbabb52efb1805d8b659ff7aab03b4fcb)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135%2520road%2520roller%2F135roadroller073.jpg&hash=4a5161eacd734aef445d6eed2839a172478441bb)
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For painting it still breaks down into bits
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As the whole reason for building this was to have a go at the paint effects seen on the real one I am going to start a new thread in the appropriate section on the forum where I will detail my thoughts on how to I am going to approach the task .......... hopefully everyone will feel free to suggest alternative approaches / different ideas before I get the air brush out ;)
Looking forward to it Gordon. Nifty little machine.
This little masterpiece definitely needs a thread on it´s own ;). Really nice work on the seat and the rusted up plate where the gear shift ??? is located. Some real intereseting paint job coming up here.....!
Anders ;D
Very cool sub-assemblies.
Found the attached image in my files..thought you might enjoy it. Looks like the same model or its smaller sibling.
Wow, that "narrow gauge" steam roller is really cool ... of course, they may have gone a little crazy with all the paint chipping and the layers of different colors! ;D -- Dallas
In keeping with Marc's original intent of this thread (weird right?) I have been contemplating details to accompany my 1:32 Corliss. I wanted to do a simple sawhorse and here is the result;
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fsawhorse.jpg&hash=1226c6cb912fe0e6d7841a0b4fa1e71db60ede03)
Oh, scale is 1:32 it is 1" tall and 1 3/8" long.
-Marty
Hello Marty. Nice job.
What did you use for wood? They look like tiny pieces of furring strips.
Don
http://public.fotki.com/DonRailton/
Quote from: lab-dad on June 08, 2011, 03:05:29 PM
In keeping with Marc's original intent of this thread (weird right?) I have been contemplating details to accompany my 1:32 Corliss. I wanted to do a simple sawhorse and here is the result;
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2Fsawhorse.jpg&hash=1226c6cb912fe0e6d7841a0b4fa1e71db60ede03)
Oh, scale is 1:32 it is 1" tall and 1 3/8" long.
-Marty
Not bad , Jonesy , but if I were making that saw horse I would have extended the top piece passed the legs and moved the "plywood end braces down to just below the top . Comprende ?
Nick
ps . Hi ya Don , long time no hear . What have you been up to recently ?
-MJ
Nice job. Don't pay any attention to Nick, besides what does he know he's a brick layer!!!!! ;D
Jerry
Ps Good to see you Don.
I agree - I have seen them made like that in real life. Very nice job Marty and those circular rings (stains) seem to be quite popular right now. First Marc (who else?) came up with them on his beautiful bench then I borrowed them for my work table and now on your saw horse.
The tools and the pipe? looks great too. Who´s the manufacturer of the wrench and c-clamp?
Anders ;D
Yep, what Nick said. I copied a sawhorse I found online and the brace makes sense under the horizontal piece. Excellent modeling though :)
Don,
Scale stripwood is the "wood"
Anders,
no idea who made the tools, stuff from the scrap box, I had to make the monkey wrench handle larger, was too thin.
Other than staining the wood and waiting for that to dry the project was an evening of fun.
If I was going to make a sawhorse to actually "use" I would not have made it this way.
I was going for a look and feel and type I wanted to model.
Sorry but I guess the plumber on the Corliss knows very little about carpentry, I however do! ;D
Thanks!
-Marty
Marty,
I like that and idea which I will "borrow" ..........and well done for bring us back on track on this thread.
I'll try and help to ......... continuing my search for the easiest way to make setts/cobble here is my latest attempt - made from ordinary modelling clay impressed with a couple of bits of plastic.
It is meant to be a very old broken down semi abandoned yard, probably with a cement mixer in it ;)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBases038.jpg&hash=52da31b0e3e233d792abac75006f4f780c564588)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBases044.jpg&hash=b5ed1453273d61566ba487865e4802b88f5c71d9)
Next job is to add some vegetation .......... which considering some of the latest posts will be a challenge
Wow! That is a darned fine rendition of a busted old road ... real nice!
Now, regarding vegetation ... meditate until you reach a vegetative state, and it should come naturally ... ;D
If not, dart over to Sweden for some assistance ... you might be able to catch a bus at Ikea ...
Cheers,
Dallas
Gordon, that looks like my table that I photographed my stuff on ;D ;D! What´s going on ???? This will be a beautiful base to support a great roller or cement mixer.
Anders ;D
GORDON!
More info on the creation of that "Road" or what once was one.
Thanks!
-Marty
I miss a bit of asphalt or compacted earth.
Looks very good, even better with some grass, weeds and flowers.
Jacq
I LOVE that road. -- Russ
Glad you guys like it .......... you are tempting me to to try and lay some old breaking up tarmac on it now, there was a thread/SBS on how to do it somewhere here ..... theres a few more hours of my life gone looking for it.
Marty, will put a SBS on cobble/setts at the week end .......... in true Blue Peter style (folks in the UK will understand) you will need
Standard modelling clay ( as used by sculpters,etc)
Piece of wood
white glue, water soluble type (Elmers?)
2 pieces of square and rectangular plastic tube
toothpick
&
a microwave
Think there are more words in the material list than there will be in the SBS, it is that simple
Nice the way you cobbled those stones together. And Nick's right about the saw horse. Looks like a plumber built it. It's perfect.
Quote from: gfadvance on June 09, 2011, 02:56:56 PM
Glad you guys like it .......... you are tempting me to to try and lay some old breaking up tarmac on it now, there was a thread/SBS on how to do it somewhere here ..... theres a few more hours of my life gone looking for it.
Marty, will put a SBS on cobble/setts at the week end .......... in true Blue Peter style (folks in the UK will understand) you will need
Standard modelling clay ( as used by sculpters,etc)
Piece of wood
white glue, water soluble type (Elmers?)
2 pieces of square and rectangular plastic tube
toothpick
&
a microwave
Think there are more words in the material list than there will be in the SBS, it is that simple
Gordon ,
You've forgotten the empty cereal packet , washing up liquid bottle and a roll of ....Sticky Backed Plastic ! Now you can get started .
Don't forget to get your Mummy to do the tricky bit of cutting out with scissors .
Nick
OK while sorting the SBS on the cobbles, played around with this thought of adding old tarmac ........... not sure I understand how this stuff breaks up or how to colour it ...... but here is my shot at it .
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBases055.jpg&hash=1266a44875d4d8f8132c86c60bfffa2995ecacfd)
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Critique please.
Sorry added this one just to give sense of scale, lighting is terrible I know ....sun decided to flood thro window !
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBases059.jpg&hash=1ed04511f63ea4f296e898fd258dfe8925201ae4)
Far from an expert on old tarmac but looks perfect to me! With weeds etc. between the cracks this should look perfect. Great to see the cement mixer in place as well. Nice job Gordon!
Anders ;D
Looks pretty good to me , Gordon . I look forward to seeing it all finished on July 2nd . So no slacking , now , keep working .
Nick
"ps . Hi ya Don , long time no hear . What have you been up to recently ? "
Hello Nick and Jerry - I have been working on a 1/35 diorama for NNGC 2011. Lately it seems to be like pulling teeth for some reason.
First section ---
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv62%2Fphotos%2F0%2F1265980%2F9365410%2Fpics015cssx-vi.jpg&hash=4322b9d25c79dde7daab763e65a4688f5f3d8614)
Regards, Don
http://public.fotki.com/DonRailton/
Don --
That's fabulous! And a great reminder to go back and visit your photo albums ... in addition to the great modeling, you have an amazing knack for composing the dioramas with interesting shapes, layouts, vertical relief, etc, etc. Quite inspiring ...
Cheers,
Dallas
Don
Your usual excellent work. If this is the first section can't wait to see what's in the second section.
Jerry
You've done nothing wrong so far. -- Russ
Don, I like what i see so far ;D if this is only part of what your building.....cant wait to see the rest.
Just an apology, have not managed to sort out SBS on cobbles ........ it will get done.
I blame those people who wanted asphalt!
The cobbled yard, currently
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBases085.jpg&hash=b1dcb1d6e3d91596c48347f0f7d1f1ef258d107c)
Really good job Gordon. The vegetation adds another dimension, and the thing that makes it for me? The difference between the soil colours intimating dry and damp backgrounds...............at least that's how it looks to me?
I've been admiring your later works very much, this style suits you.
Thanks Andi,
You may be interested in the fact,that while this is 1/35, this technique does work in 1/24ish........ and how do I know that ;D ;D
The word "yard" might be a giveaway
Super nice....Gordon! ::)
Anders ;D
Dalls, Jerry, Russ & Craig - Thank you all for your comments. I'll pick up the pace and post more.
Don
http://public.fotki.com/DonRailton/
I guess Dalls is short for Dallas.
Don
http://public.fotki.com/DonRailton/
Dalls could be the Dallas mini-me
Oh crap ... w'happened? I can barely reach the keyboard now ... what's going on up there? -- Mini-D
I think I found my next "clutter" build....and I'm pretty sure Gordon isn't planning on, or already, building this. ;D
...but just to be safe I only attached a small image ;) ;D ;D ;D
Marc
Quote from: marc_reusser on June 17, 2011, 02:45:22 PM
I think I found my next "clutter" build....and I'm pretty sure Gordon isn't planning on, or already, building this. ;D
...but just to be safe I only attached a small image ;) ;D ;D ;D
Marc
Does that mean you are going to have to get your soldering iron out ?
Nick
Quote from: marc_reusser on June 17, 2011, 02:45:22 PM
....and I'm pretty sure Gordon isn't planning on, or already, building this. ;D
...Marc
Well you only used the present and future tenses, obviously not have considered the "past" ............. now where did I put that photo?
Only joking ;)
Anyway being serious you can't start anything until you finish up your write-up on painting road roller wheels
Been practicing my painting, at least the "mixer" is no longer that bright red primer colour ............. but it is definitely rusty & abandoned
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fcement%2520mixer%2FPaintingmixer046.jpg&hash=aa93d5821abf3bb9c64518d46c87ba1b3c35cffb)
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Well practice makes perfect Gordon, and to be honest you look to be well on your way. What an excellent job, the natural decay around the engine box is exemplary - and the old "mix" around the mouth of the mixing bowl is particularly convincing. The dry and dead paint residue around the draw-bar and winding wheels look about right as do the spoked wheels.
All round great job - you put me to shame so you do!!
All the best...................
Nice Gordon,
I very much like the texture that has come into the panels, and the dried concrete residue is just enough, and a good powdery looking colour too. What I also like is the hints of former colour, like the blue struggling to remain on the wheel and portions of the frame, but I think the colouring on that drawbar is the main part that caught my eye as a really good balance of decay and weather collection. The whole thing makes a pretty cool little junk feature.
Cheers,
Dan
Super! :)
Convincing. -- Russ
Really great little detail!
I just may have to have one in "O" scale.
-Marty
Practicing ;D ???. Couldn´t be much better!
Anders ;D
It is obvious that the worker who used this mixer were slobs, there is absolutely no need to leave the concrete hardening up like that on the rim especially, having spent a few hours mixing 11 cubic yards with my own 3 cubic foot mixer last summer. even if I splashed concrete over the frame, which is inevitable, I always washed the tub and cleaned the edge of the rim.
Gordon I think you should tell the workers to have more respect for their equipment!.......Oh its a model sorry.
Michael
Quote from: michael mott on August 19, 2011, 08:55:35 PM
It is obvious that the worker who used this mixer were slobs, there is absolutely no need to leave the concrete hardening up like that on the rim especially, having spent a few hours mixing 11 cubic yards with my own 3 cubic foot mixer last summer. even if I splashed concrete over the frame, which is inevitable, I always washed the tub and cleaned the edge of the rim.
Gordon I think you should tell the workers to have more respect for their equipment!.......Oh its a model sorry.
Michael
Yes, but, that mixer was your own Michael
I also, almmost, ;D care for my mixer like you do.
But, on building sites I have worked on in the dim past, the prefered method of cleaning was, shovel of gravel, bucket of water a few turns of barrel, Turn out & off home. Next morning clean drum with lump hammer from outside, where water did not slosh, so if such workers were in the work crew, a few dints near the barrel mouth, would add versimilitude
I was not the doing the concreting, just observing from the seat of the crane!
Thank you all for the positive comments.
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It has now been mounted on a very small base, to stop me puting finger prints over all the pigments. As Anders pointed out to me a bit of variety in the vegetation would help so playing with some ideas .......... one of these days I might get to say its finished
I love this scene, Gordon.
Just beautiful Gordon.....maybe it´s even better than the hinges you made for me ;D ;D ;D.
Anders
Haha, looks like it just coughed up a bunch of bricks and dried concrete. :D Love it!
Wow! Great work!!
A very effective mini-scene!
Ooooh! :o That mixer looks great on the little diorama. The natural backdrop really shows off all the detail and finishing on the mixer in a nice context ... really "looks right." -- Dallas
Gordon, excellent! so far I would agree that a little variety in the vegetation would add a whole new level to this model.
Michael
Looks great!
One thing I would suggest is try to work in some of the taller grassy clumps closer to the edges. Right now there appears to be a "grass-less" area all around the edge of the layout.
Box
Now that reminds me of something ;)
Umm...I thought we were never going to talk abou that again... :P ;D ;D ;D
Nowhere else to post this...but thought it might be of interest.....my first go around trying to mimmick old dirty plywood for another project....of particular concern/issue for me was trying to get the chipped/flaking edge.
Sorrry, not the greatest pic...cameraphone from the workbench. (Real-time modeling ;D )
Man that does look sweet Marc. Love the plywood, and think you got the edges down pretty darn good. I'm still trying to paint a pallet and here you are making plywood :o
Rob
Nicely done Marc.
I felt quite happy with my experiment technique for scale duct tape last night.
Sorry, can only show an extreme close-up/cropped detail shot.
That does look good!
Approved by the Possum Lodge Council of Duct-Taped Miniatures. -- Red Green
Dallas,
You have too much time on your hands for bizarre web image surfing.
Marc,
Nice tape. Is it a model, or a pic of the drivers seat from your first car?
Dan
Thanks guys. It's 1/24 (but think the technique also works for 1/35).
Quote from: gfadvance on June 13, 2011, 12:18:55 AM
Just an apology, have not managed to sort out SBS on cobbles ........ it will get done.
I blame those people who wanted asphalt!
The cobbled yard, currently
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Hey Gordon --
Did you ever post the SBS on cobbles ... or did I miss it? ???
Will settle for a photo of the "plastic bits" used for the embossing. ;D
Thanks!
Dallas
Hi Dallas,
sorry never did get round to the SBS.
Got to go out for a couple of hours but will put together something later. In meantime gather the following bits together
* Modelling clay, just the ordinary type that you get from any art or craft shop.
* Piece of MDF or 1/4" plywood.
* Water soluble white glue PVA, think Elmer's is your equivalent .... you don't want a glue that is water proof when dry !
* Assorted lengths of Evergreen or plastitruc square tubing, I used 1/4" x 3/16" and 3/16" square for 1/24 scale but the sizes are not critical.
* large brushes one soft and one hard brush
* optional ..... ball bearing or marble about 1 to 2" in dia.
Let me know when you have the bits collected and I''l do part (ii) ;)
Ooh, a scavenger hunt!
Quote from: gfadvance on November 24, 2011, 11:38:21 AM
Let me know when you have the bits collected and I''l do part (ii) ;)
Okay! I've accumulated all of the items listed ... and a reference photo showing local cobblestones ...
And another photo showing local brick sidewalks and details (like french fries) to line the gutter ... here we see some local modelers or artists studying that detail ...
And, of course, no scavenger hunt would be complete without some drunken bachelorettes ... but aside from that distraction, we have a better shot of those lovely brick sidewalks here ... so, fire away with that SBS when ready! ;D
PS -- As you may have already guessed, the part of town that still has cobblestone streets is one of the more interesting areas ... might have to head back that way for more inspiration if the project becomes complicated. 8)
To hell with the brick sidewalks, I'll go with the drunken bachelorettes.... ;)
Paul
Hmm....hookers...I think there are some 1/24 and 1/35 figures for that detail.
M
Quote from: marc_reusser on November 25, 2011, 05:20:17 PM
Hmm....hookers...I think there are some 1/24 and 1/35 figures for that detail.
M
Well, this may be a very esoteric differential ... but, technically, college girls on Halloween ... even the police were having a nice time ... and the horseys made a nice clippity-clop on the cobblestones. ;D
Still looks like hookers ;D
...the real question that begs,...what were you doing down there...and does your wife know? ;) ;D :P
I'm happily divorced ... and allowed to stay out as late as I want without excuse or explanation ... so, I was studying the COBBLESTONES (it's always about the modeling, eh?) ... and making new friends! ;D
Oh, further excuse ... on an ordinary day, there's bumper-to-bumper traffic on that street, so it would be dangerous to study the cobblestones ... on this occasion, the police were kind enough to block off all vehicular traffic, so it was a good time to study the street and take a leisurely stroll. 8)
PS -- In 1/35 scale, Aurora Model makes some lovely "Halloween" figures:
http://aurora-model.jp/e-index.html
So, as soon as Gordon gives me the info on the cobblestones, I'll be all set! (I want to get rid of the crappy pressed-foam street outside the extremely-unfinished 1/35 cafe) Oh, and for a trans-Atlantic tie-in, those photos were shot on Thames Street (and, much to the amusement of our British friends, this is not far from Pratt Street).
PS -- Photos are in the Fells Point area in Baltimore, where the B&O Docksider locos once roamed. This site has a handful of photos showing surviving tracks in the cobblestone streets:
http://www.monumentalcity.net/railroads/street/
And check out this one for a real mish-mash of cobblestones, brick, asphalt, rails, etc. A real modeling "challenge" or total nightmare:
http://www.monumentalcity.net/railroads/street/sttrkcentral.jpg
This is much more typical, shot on Thames Street:
http://www.monumentalcity.net/railroads/street/sttrkthames.jpg
Cheers,
Dallas
WARNING: It is within the moderator's discretion to remove all posts of females wearing more than thong bikinis. Post at your own risk.
Perhaps those pictures belong in the Dianoramas ::)
Michael
Dallas, sorry should have got back to you earlier, and apologies no photographs but don't think it will make much difference.
Step 1
Coat your base with the PVA glue and leave to dry ............ if you are using thin MDF or plywood suggest you coat both sides to avoid it warping.
Step 2
Roll out your clay on to the base, the dampness in the clay will reactivate the glue and help it adhere to the base.
Step 3
If you want your cobbles level then just roll it with a rolling pin or large piece of dowen till its level , if you are looking for an uneven undulating type surface then I have found a large glass marble or some form of hard ball is good just press in hard at certain points to produce the highs and lows.
Step 4
Take your square/rectangular plastic tubing .... taper the edges at one end and then push into the clay. Don't make individual blocks but place one edge of the tubing into the grove you have previously made ...work your way across the clay following the design you wish to produce ..... use different sized tubing to take up any discrepancies.
Step 5
Place your base into the Microwave ..... I gave mine a blast of full power for 30 seconds, keep an eye on it you will see the clay start to lighten in colour as it drys . You have a couple of options at this stage if you want the cobbles/ setts to look well worn then before the clay is fully dry and hard brush it with soft brush .... this will soften the edges and round over the cobbles slightly. If you want a sharp edge then dry the clay completely and then use a hard brush to clean off any the raised edges you got when you were doing the impressing.
Finishing
I used acrylics to colour my setts, the clay is porous so you just tint it with colour ..... I used a mixture of very fine sand and MIG pigments(European dust) to fill in between the cobble and then wicked in some well watered down PVA glue to hold everything in place .
Hope this is of help any bits that are not clear let me know and I will get some pics sorted out.
Gordon
What about SBS pictures ?
thanks
MPH
Gordon -- THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! Certainly sounds "simple" enough ... the technique is very straightforward ... looking at your photos, there's obviously a bit of artistic touch to getting a proper feel with the undulations in the surface, missing stones, etc. Will start with some practice bits and see how it goes.
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MPH -- I suspect that would require having Gordon go back and do a-whole-nother piece of road ... meanwhile, here are some of the earlier photos he posted of the cobblestones in question ... you should be able to see the undulations in the surface, embossing and the selective omission of stones.
Thanks again!
Dallas
I am just confused about a few things, but I love this and I want to build something similar for a project.
I got steps one and two, three and four are a little sketchy: spread the air clay, make the undulations, OK then start stamping the material?
(Don't make individual blocks but place one edge of the tubing into the grove you have previously made ...work your way across the clay following the design you wish to produce ..... use different sized tubing to take up any discrepancies.)
This part is confusing, they look like individual stones and nowhere are they touching?
Can you expand on this part please? thanks
MPH
Hey Gordon --
While we have your attention ... what did you schmeer over top for the tarmac? Plaster? Spackle? More clay?
Thanks!
Dallas
Morning,
hey you guys are interrupting my attempts to make printed brick look good ......
Love a challenge , even from the paternal dictator ...... no corner for me just a wall, blindfold and a last cigarette ;D
Anyway
Dallas .......... the tarmac was made by rolling out the clay very thinly and then placing on top of the hardened cobbles, then artistically playing around with it until it like sort of right. By the way you may find as I did that as you do the stamping some of the individual cobbles will come out/loose ..... you then have the choice of puting them back or leaving some selectively missing.
MPH
Hopefully you will get some SBS pics by the end of the day which may make my Scottish words a bit clearer ............ remember English is my second tongue, and there are a few on this side of the pond who would dispute that I have even come close to mastering it ;)
Quote from: gfadvance on November 29, 2011, 12:35:30 AM
............ remember English is my second tongue, and there are a few on this side of the pond who would dispute that I have even come close to mastering it ;)
You'll get no argument on that statement
OK a bit of a quick and dirty SBS, but hopefully it will make my previous explanation a bit clearer.
Step 1 & 2
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Didn't have any MDF so just used a piece of scrap wood, coated with PVA which was left to dry. When dry modelling clay was pressed onto the surface - the clay will reactivate the glue and help it stick to the wood.
Step 3
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I rolled out the clay basically level, however as I was trying to show a cobbled road I made the clay thicker at the crown of the road ......... and where the gutter was planed to be I hollowed out the clay with the back of a spoon. You may just be able to see these effects on the r/hand picture above.
Step 4
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These are the tools I use for impressing the cobbles/setts ... hopefully you can see I have tapered /sharpened the edges.
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MPH ... this was what I was trying to explain, the left hand picture is what not to do each cobble pressed in individually and apart! Right hand picture shows what mean , the tool is over laid into the previous impression.
Step 5
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All the impressing done , you can see where some of the individual setts have lifted and also where I have not been accurate enough in placing the tool ... as per Step 4!
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After a minute in the Microwave, hopefully you can see where the clay has started to dry out ....... it also shows I was rushing. Should have let the clay dry out for an hour or so naturally and then used shorter burst in the Microwave. Because I have overheated it there is some rippling of the cobbles due to steam being produced under the clay, this overheating has also led to some unnatural shrinkage leading to some cracking along the joint lines
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Gives a sense of scale, also shows some of the shrinking mentioned above. I have started to brush the clay with a stiff brush to clean any debris and to round some of the cobble edges.
A bit more care with the clean up,then some painting and finally infilling of the joint lines .... but you all know how to do that so will shut-up now, hope it helps. ( took about 90 minutes to do .. including glue drying time)
EDIT
After a couple of hours, I have given them another brush ,cleaned up some of the joint lines and although not coloured yet I have brushed in some fine sand (chinchilla dust) just to give an impression of what it could look like.
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In real life it was usual to fill in the joint with a pitch/bitumen mix .......... anybody got any bright ideas how I should do that .... I was wondering about black tile grout after the setts have been painted and sealed
Nick,
rearrange & complete the following ............... black, kettle, pot ::)
Gordon -
Nice setts (also called cobblestones here in the US).
You mention "modeling clay". I assume this is a water-based, air-drying clay like "DAS" or "Paper-Clay"?
Again, over here "modeling clay" is an oil-based, non-hardening clay (see discussion about Sulfur in this type of clay).
Carlo
Hi Carlo,
I used just a cheap ordinary modelling clay available from most art shops
http://www.tiranti.co.uk/subdivision_product_list.asp?Content=Grey+Clay+%2D+Clay+Modelling+Materials+%2D+Modelling+Materials&Subcategory=41&Subdivision=129
Cost me about £5 for 5 kg about 6/7 years ago still tons of left and as long as its plastic bag is sealed never goes off.
See no reason why any water based product like DAS would not work this way
I understood your description from the text alone, Gordon, but have really enjoyed looking at the illustrations with your comments. Your technique seems simple and produces beautiful results. I would imagine it would work just as well for vertical brick walls. Thanks for an excellent tutorial. -- Russ
Tops! Method filed away for future reference, thanks!
Dave
Quote from: finescalerr on November 29, 2011, 01:00:26 PM
I I would imagine it would work just as well for vertical brick walls.
Russ
............ you mean the one I have to stand against ;D ;D ;)
Quote from: gfadvance on November 29, 2011, 10:12:52 AM
Nick,
rearrange & complete the following ............... black, kettle, pot ::)
Er ,wot yus goin on abit , my bliddy Inglish is perficklie understundible ?
The Clay that Gordon is using is the same clay that potters use "stoneware" it shrinks approx 5% if left to air dry. then when fired shrinks some more as the molecular water is driven off in the firing process.
One problem that I can see is that unless it is sealed completely after drying it will absorb moisture, and can re-soften in a humid environment.
The air drying modeling clays are not the same.
The modelling clay that Gordon is using is only "permanent" after firing, first to cone o6 a Bisque firing which makes the clay durable to absorb the glazes, (similar to a red clay flowerpot) and then fired to cone 10 when it is vitrified and basically stone again.
Regards Michael
Gordon --
Thanks for going the "extra mile" with the new demo piece and SBS photos -- bravo! Clearly illustrates (a) the "simplicity" of the method and (b) how far it can go when you take the time to add those special touches. Very nice.
Cheers,
Dallas
What kind of brush did you use for the "brushing" of the surface/raised edges.
QuoteIn real life it was usual to fill in the joint with a pitch/bitumen mix .......... anybody got any bright ideas how I should do that .... I was wondering about black tile grout after the setts have been painted and sealed
Maybe try the Hudson & Allen "Asphalt" product...I have never used it, but have a bag in my stores. It's a black powder of some ilk, that you could probably mix with Gesso or Matte-Medium....maybe PVA. (I'll see if there are any instructions on the bag when I get to the workshop). I think grout, even unsanded, might likely be too matte and granular to represent a Bitumen/tar type material.
Just curious....is the bitumen between cobbles a British method, because I do not recall seeing it anywhere on "the Continent", unless it was residue from where a later asphalt road surface was peeling. The cobbles I recall all seemed to be tight set or sand/dirt set.
Quote from: marc_reusser on November 30, 2011, 01:29:42 AM
Just curious....is the bitumen between cobbles a British method, because I do not recall seeing it anywhere on "the Continent", unless it was residue from where a later asphalt road surface was peeling. The cobbles I recall all seemed to be tight set or sand/dirt set.
... we do have it over here too ... or at least had it - as the bitumen tends to extend and shrink permanently (even in this part of the northern hemisphere) so perhaps the reconditioning seems to time consuming nowadays ... ???
Cheers
Michael,
you are quiet right , there is shrinkage and even when dry the clay can be on the soft side. Think I have got away with it due the fact that any cracking due to shrinkage tends to follows the the impressed lines. I usually give the dried clay a coat of well thinned PVA glue which soaks into the clay which hardens it up and also reduces its tendency to absorb further moisture.
Marc,
Brushes
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Top to bottom ......nylon bristle brush, comes as a set of three from the Pound shop, probably not too many of those in Pasadena, CA.
Next , hogs hairs brush
Bottom stiff stencil brush
Use the hogs hair one initially to clean out debris , nylon brush used in a gentle circular motion when clay is dry to round of edges. If really well worn cobbles needed then stencil brush is used.
Tar / Pitch seems to have been the product used historically certainly in the UK but gradually fell into disuse as traffic speed/loads increased.
This is my favourite site for info in this area
http://www.pavingexpert.com/jointing09.htm
Seen this guys work and he the paving equivalent of Nick the Brick in terms of workmanship and skill
Having now found myself with a half done base thought I had better try and do something with it.
Added some kerb stones and pavement slabs, clay again, none of its painted yet and its still got loose sand as a temporary fill ................. the drain was made with some of Vectorcut's new grating sheet (0.030" holes)
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That could have turned out a lot worse .... -- Russ
Well, that answers the curb question ... and, after a quick look at the VectorCut web site, I find that Dave has a bunch of new things that I gotta get. PS: You sure do get rolling on these things! -- Dallas
Suggestion to Dave: Please update us on your latest creations. -- Russ
Just to bring this to a conclusion here is the base painted.
I painted the clay with acrylics, sealed with a mist coat of Dullcote, joint lines filled in with DIY filler( tinted slightly for the slabs, coloured v very dark grey for the cobbles ) then dusted with MIG pigments.
Sorry for the colour difference in the photos, think the camera's on the way out?
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Overall think the technique works reasonably well for the cobbles , but not for the pavement slabs .......... with these think a better way would be to score the joint lines after the clay is dry , doing it before the gaps get too wide due to the shrinkage factor
Gordon ,
I think this little diorama base has turned out very well and the colouring in the last photos looks spot on .
Good job ,
Nick
I love these cobbles - and their colour. I also love that you decided to add the 2CV to it, even if it still requires a bit of work.
Depending on the type of stone you're trying to model... I've gotten some really good effects by stipple-brushing pigments/weathering powders on stone. It adds that subtle variation you see in a lot of granite, etc.
dave
The clay base is most satisfactory.
Maybe the color shift is a result of your camera's auto white balance algorithms. All digital cameras try to use white, black, and neutral gray to determine a proper color and exposure. If you shoot the same object against green, white, black, or red it often will exhibit different coloration.
Russ
Bloody fabulous!
I will most definitely have to give this a go.
Sweet! Makes me wish I could prototypically include some cobblestones in one of my desert mining towns.
You can. Just populate it with a bunch of Welsh miners. -- Russ
Really nice conversion on the CV and great work on the dio base! Why are there two threads for this project? Will the CV have another "home" ????
Anders ;D
Hi Anders,
the CV only crept in here as it was on the shelf and I needed something to provide a sense of scale, it will continue to reside at
http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1650.0
p.s. got you e-mail and will drop you a line soon
Been building some clutter for the "CV" so pretty obvious place to post
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad018.jpg&hash=411eac0e0c1a7d904bdb9f14a015c58c43f9c802) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad017.jpg&hash=70983ec577ad470bbbae619547cc8967924d698f) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad012.jpg&hash=7d28b0cbd49cdeb7dd2856038589447adfe5493e) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad011.jpg&hash=92db5e49fabfa48808645aedcee318de6d241158) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad009.jpg&hash=125657ab1c5124d5cd4abd5a540682bb0f48225f) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad008.jpg&hash=4d7222a56274e8ae3ad94b01c4af984fd546780d) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad005.jpg&hash=690e2b2ed5ed3a363dd4d3ebb24cb5188c88af9c) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad001.jpg&hash=a18dbecae8031d3836b05d76222def6ab4a051c8) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad003.jpg&hash=c6099ee73a4a2606e969fca17eed9ab07ffa6178)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad021.jpg&hash=64f4fb3e81c464120ae52dd2184cc8c494e03545)
Trouble is I now have to paint them ???
c'mon Gordon! ???
That's a real door! :o
geeeezzzzzz trying to pull a fast one on us! ::)
MPH
Very nice "bits" I love doing these little projects!
Okay; what putty did you use and how the heck did you do the grommets?!?! :o
-Marty
Quote from: lab-dad on December 05, 2011, 08:07:26 AM
Okay; what putty did you use and how the heck did you do the grommets?!?! :o
Yes c'mon! - enquiring minds want to know. ............... Oh, and pretty good too, lovely clutter - don't forget .......... paint tins [all sizes] Brushes [natch'] Paint kettles and wipers [rag] straight edge and paste table [for paper hanging] Open kit box with carry handle ............ and most importantly "messenger" style bag for snap and thermos.
Go get 'em tiger.
Andi
great ideas but the CV is not exactly a large pick-up, however you will see some of your thoughts soon .................."messenger bag" ? , think what you really mean is one of those "gas mask" canvas bags from the ex Army surplus shops.
& Marty
The putty I used is Milliput epoxy putty, with lots of talc on the work bench to roll it out nice and thin............ bench does smell better now ;D
As for the grommets , my standard way .... wire , wrapped around a thin drill(22 thou) then cut & pressed flat ;-
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FOddsSods043.jpg&hash=86717e62726d40873dfdff98f559ac18ec7cb0ed) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FOddsSods044.jpg&hash=666d00540fdc1295164edd184aa856afd7fc983c) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FOddsSods045.jpg&hash=0a695d1c12917e2fe8f35ed506240ca304e2c0e9)
You really need to use a new blade when cutting rings to avoid too much distortion
Excellent, meticulous work. -- Russ
Quote from: gfadvance on December 05, 2011, 10:22:39 AM
Andi
great ideas but the CV is not exactly a large pick-up, however you will see some of your thoughts soon .................."messenger bag" ? , think what you really mean is one of those "gas mask" canvas bags from the ex Army surplus shops.
You get the idea ....... could hang over the seat corner with Thermos poking out?
As an aside here's my "Messenger bag" ........ My Tilley Intrepid II - [an object of desire].
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi180.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx248%2FAndismodelpages%2FTilleyIntrepidII.jpg&hash=f7f4dd085ffb05ba99b91934be697d28eedda606)
OK Andi,
your wish , etc, etc.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FOddsSods046-1.jpg&hash=b14aecc2a1ed51fa4821309c7a893baa4190728d)
The idea is there but may have another go at it tomorrow :-\
OK managed to get some paint on the "bits"
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad042.jpg&hash=46494b4fe91cef221b039b25162eb86c020aa5b7) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad041-1.jpg&hash=63bec920170d741b8cdd7e436f6fb87bfedea2cd)(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad045.jpg&hash=fcae167c10d59c6627602f981e8b9ddfe2a3c3e8) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad049.jpg&hash=e3b03490e3603ef66ff7c95e7224cb21a5251e65)
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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad065.jpg&hash=0321e03a1f25c4d480e40a52cfa5a1065e680b62) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad060.jpg&hash=81a15c63abf91bd4001f3f44d610056bc9f16664)
Certainly working on small bits is a good discipline for me although as Anders pointed out to me painting wood is easier if you start of with wood ;)
Good grief, man! The little bag and the folded canvas with the grommets are brilliant "soft" details .... getting the chiseling bits (mortise or whatever) out of the door with the fittings for hardware, etc ... wow. The ladder is a bit of a mind-blower ... the folding assembly, layers of paint dribble and the rope bits ... all super cool.
Only question (for the moment): why the big gaping empty nail holes in the saw horse? Put some nail heads in them or something.
Great stuff!
Dallas
Hmm...I want to see a tob and bottom view of that door to see if you show the mortised stile and rail details. ;D
Seriously though ...splendid work. Like the saw-horse painting; nice wood look ..even has a CM effect feel. Ladder has maybe a bit too much overall splatter....looks like an explosion in a spray can factory. The way you created and folded the canvas is perfect...I am a bit iffy about the painting though...the highlights and transitions are a bit to rough (looks drybrushed) to me, but then I doubt I could do any better.
..in general, looking at these, I feel somewhat inadequate at the moment.
M
Dallas
fair call. I assumed that the painting would sort off fill the holes .......... must get the primer coats sprayed on a bit thicker ;)
Anyway
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad068.jpg&hash=f2e43535764a7036f64ce418f31cdef6f996a24f)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad066.jpg&hash=8898e653afeffc1565930336b1048a8c00b4f6eb)
Marc
and what is wrong with a nice bit of dry brushing? was trying to kid on that there was some texture on the tarps ::), hoping that some pigments applied when the load is packed on the CV will help .
Ladder................. I ain't subtle and you are probably right
Quote from: marc_reusser on December 09, 2011, 01:57:08 PM
Ladder has maybe a bit too much overall splatter....looks like an explosion in a spray can factory. The way you created and folded the canvas is perfect...I am a bit iffy about the painting though...the highlights and transitions are a bit to rough (looks drybrushed) to me, but then I doubt I could do any better.
For a differing view point ... when looking at your rendition of the ladder, I immediately recognize one that I have used in the past. I swear that I have climbed that very same ladder (with some trepidation!) ;D
Agree that the coloring on the soft goods could be improved a bit ... don't have the chops to make the correct suggestions, but I think I'd use a bit of glazing (transparent layering) to ease the transitions.
Again, brilliant job ... and nice work fixing the saw horse! ;)
-- Dallas
Really nice work all around. The mortise or whatever it's called in the door is a brilliant touch.
Quote................. I ain't subtle and you are probably right
Never knew a Scot that was. ;D ;D :P
Quote from: marc_reusser on December 09, 2011, 09:52:27 PM
Quote................. I ain't subtle and you are probably right
Never knew a Scot that was. ;D ;D :P
Nor a Yorkshireman for that matter...
Paul
I don't care what his heritage might be, the work is quite good. -- Russ
Well, I'm most impressed.
I think that you could spend the rest of your days "improving" or "doing over" pieces. And I think you've "learnt" as much as you can from these items, and as such they're a cracking good collection of "miscellanea" that will contribute positively to any cameo scene or diorama.
That you can see improvements could be made, or that they could be positively reworked is testament and proof positive that you haven't yet reached your potential in this area. ........... Keep it up - I think they're inspirational pieces and will provide impetus and momentum to others seeking to attempt these sorts of pocket sized projects.
Huzzahs all round I say!
Great little details....the tarp is just incredible :o! I agree with Marc on the ladder but you already knew otherwise great job!
Anders
Thanks for the comments folks.
Andi, you are almost 100% right don't think I can learn much more from these little pieces without either ruining what I have managed to achieve or getting fed up and consigning them to shelf ................ however did have one more go on those tarps
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad069.jpg&hash=b2f728b3c15314fe0655dbc2f59ce51d1b125ddc) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad072.jpg&hash=107b03c80883f196b21fd0b180c2ffd16bbaf1de)(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad074.jpg&hash=3137303619fa4a90cb5d8b6ee1f401c83c6bc66e)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuilders%2520Load%2FBuildersLoad076.jpg&hash=9104bc8b2d75382ea0eafbf9091f5cd3237e160e)
Put on what I believe the technical term describes as glazes, which has I think, had the effect of softening the transition between "dry brushing" and the rest.
That's it on these pieces ................onwards & upwards
I like the color much better!
I think though some wear at the places it normally folds and the edges would be appropriate.
I was going to use the d___ b____ term but fear the wrath if I were to do so.
I am definitely going to get some putty and have some fun!
-Marty
Lovely stuff our man up North - inspiring just keep it coming - the detail on the door does it for me - split me trousers on ladders like that always going to fix them one day
Barney
Bloody Damn man, Bloddy damn!
Good God, man! get a life! ;)
MPH
Gordon overall great work, I like the look and feel of the ladder personally. The tarp troubles me I think that the edges are too thick and there is no edge seaming, the edges would be doubled where the grommets are, I like the simple way that the grommets are made, other than that not too shabby.
Cheers Michael
I suppose I could find nitpicks, too. But I still think the work is satisfactory and I doubt I could equal it. -- Russ
Quote from: Franck Tavernier on March 27, 2011, 02:01:46 PM
Nick, if you want a set of spikes (2500) I can buy it for you, I owe you this favor!
Franck
Hey Guy's,
Good news, the tire-fonds are back!
http://www.octantenligne.com/downloads/recto.pdf
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.octantenligne.com%2Fimages%2Fpointetfrecto_270.jpg&hash=8d954f8cfeb9b3f60cf14bcf24fa288cac8eef9a)
2000 pieces for 19.30€, about $25.82 ;)
Franck
Quote from: Franck Tavernier on December 14, 2011, 12:07:02 PM
Quote from: Franck Tavernier on March 27, 2011, 02:01:46 PM
Nick, if you want a set of spikes (2500) I can buy it for you, I owe you this favor!
Franck
Hey Guy's,
Good news, the tire-fonds are back!
http://www.octantenligne.com/downloads/recto.pdf
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.octantenligne.com%2Fimages%2Fpointetfrecto_270.jpg&hash=8d954f8cfeb9b3f60cf14bcf24fa288cac8eef9a)
2000 pieces for 19.30€, about $25.82 ;)
Franck
Franck,
I bought three packets of them when I was at Railexpo last month . One of the packets is heading for Australia . I meant to say something earlier , but didn't get around to it .
They are certainly small and they are probably seen best in a photo .
I have tried some out on a Tom Yorke turntable I have and they do look good . I can't show a picture of them yet as it is in the "paintshop" at the moment .
At the same show Zebulon were selling lots of Forex , the foamboard that Emmanuel uses . However, I didn't get any as I can't see myself ever using it . plus there wasn't room in my suitcase .
Thanks for bringing this to the attention of the other chaps ,
Nick
Nick, glad to know that you have found them at RailExpo!
I'm waiting now for your pictures on the Tom yorke turntable ;)
Emmanuel uses too formboard from Canson called Domino...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.artcamargo.com.br%2Fimages%2Ffoamboard%2520domino%2520canson.jpg&hash=ac6f6e5b5104391b57f772a9e1a25f490696a821)
Franck
Nick,
I hope one of those packets is for Barney ............... he's spent a fortune looking for alternatives!!
Now before pictures of turntables , how about cranes ;D
Quote from: gfadvance on December 16, 2011, 01:13:35 PM
Nick,
I hope one of those packets is for Barney ............... he's spent a fortune looking for alternatives!!
Now before pictures of turntables , how about cranes ;D
It never occurred to me that Barnabas might want some . I might delve into one of the packets and count out a hundred or so for him !
The crane is in the same paintshop as the turntable . After having had an Iwata airbrush and compressor for four years I have finally plucked up the courage to use it . However, I thought it best not to experiment on the Dodge , so I've been practicing on some oil drums and the turntable first . It's getting there , I've got the rust base coat on , I just need to do the AK/hairspray coat and sort out the top coat and I'll be away .
Nick
Well its not big, and its not clever ............... but it is finished and its definitely clutter. Based on this as I needed a few bits of junk for a little diorama
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuryTransportMuseumSept11101.jpg&hash=a6c8d310f9d301b060c9eafee36937be9c2e9786)
Square rod of plastic, plus some aluminum tubing .... approx. 6 x 6 x 8 mm
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FOddsSods066.jpg&hash=87a1b256b650948365dbee0615a5116e3acbe035)
Added some paint and lenses
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FOddsSods086.jpg&hash=ddf7ac005fb0aa50089d0677df1cbb76c9343efa) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FOddsSods088.jpg&hash=142e8fca3af1b00da9506f74fde47abfa125d3ed)
Hopefully will look OK discarded amongst the grass and weeds
Nice little detail!
Now "Watcha" up to?.................. good though.
Quote from: gfadvance on February 20, 2012, 02:54:03 PM
Well its not big, and its not clever ............... but it is finished and its definitely clutter. Based on this as I needed a few bits of junk for a little diorama
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FBuryTransportMuseumSept11101.jpg&hash=a6c8d310f9d301b060c9eafee36937be9c2e9786)
Square rod of plastic, plus some aluminum tubing .... approx. 6 x 6 x 8 mm
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FOddsSods066.jpg&hash=87a1b256b650948365dbee0615a5116e3acbe035)
Added some paint and lenses
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FOddsSods082-1.jpg&hash=765f67c187870cad015c1322a5c98c3fa350d753) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FOddsSods078-1.jpg&hash=28d391288c2935a50256f5ab209a7e924a3a598d)
Hopefully will look OK discarded amongst the grass and weeds
I remember those lights . One of the " must have" objects in every students bedroom !
Glad to see you're managing to do something inspite of your lame paw .
Nick
Sorry mucking up this thread, I had posted the wrong photos.... now corrected but it has not replaced them in Nick's reply?
Anyway, Nick ..... yes I remember "collecting " them on a Friday night
Those lamps had a very particular smell. they look great Gordon.
Michael
Needed some unwind time last night so played with trying to replicate an old stone wall as found............. as they say "up North"
Used a piece of plaster cast on a base of crumpled foil to give some starting texture. It was very quickly carved, and it shows but I know what not to do next time and then basic stone colouring added using oils/sponge. Because I had only very lightly sealed the plaster the oils dried ultra fast and matt .......... additional colouring was added with Gouache paint and the same was used to try and add some of the spotting/lichen you find on these walls, The Gouache paint allowed me to play/soften some of these effects with a damp brush.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135freelancecrawler023.jpg&hash=ad62d2732eddbdd2b33671a0f0b4b4ed7dd530ef)
Comments/critique please
I will probably incorporate this test piece into a small base to allow me to practice my non-existent grass/foliage techniques .... which might also allow me to hide some of discrepancies in the carving
Great little project Gordon .......... looks very promising, and pretty realistic too.
Just a couple of observations; I think the "capstones" or the vertical stones on the top - should be thinner, half as thin again. Not even sure if that's prototypical, but it sits in my memory better. And regards the wall itself, be aware of "jigsawing" the stones together, extremely rarely does this happen. Only reason this is such a "thing" for me is that my students all at some time or other try to paint dry stone walls [they are particularly picturesque] and this is a common pitfall, it would almost certainly be beneficial to work from a reference image [ something I rarely - or am usually to idle to do].
That said - consider this idea thieved :P
Thanks Andi, knew the carving did not look right but could not describe what was wrong with it "jigsawing" describes the problem perfectly ............... and I thought I was looking and working from a reference picture .
Looking not Observing
Found a good reference picture .................. which demonstrates exactly Andi's point and how bad my carving really is.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fdrystonewalli.jpg&hash=2eb854b62b083c953002d8c1b5b024eed91da939)
Back to the drawing board
Hi Gordon,
love the colour and texture of the wall. I was trying to think of ways to explain how the carving could be made a little better. I've scanned a quick sketch of the centre section of your wall which contains possibly the most unusual shaped stone which I've highlighted in red. Other strange shapes come as a result of carving mortar lines or 'joints' instead of carving 'stones'. I've sketched the same basic shapes on the right, hopefully that shows what I mean. Also added a pic of some of my own sculpting which illustrates the idea. Rather than carve a joint between stones focus on getting a nicely shaped stone then carve the stone next to it. Your mortar lines will end up varied in thickness and all your stones will be naturally shaped.
Also remember that stones would placed so that vertical joints are staggered (like the shaded stone in the right hand sketch) and courses will follow basically horizontal lines. I think your reference shot reveals that too.
Hope this helps a little. I'm no expert and I'm sure others here will be able to add better advice more concisely than I can...
James
Hi James, thanks for taking the trouble to try and help me.
I did spend an hour today carving a bit of wall exactly as you stated concentrating on the individual shapes and leaving the "spaces" to sort themselves out. However it still did not look right ........... in this case the spaces between the individual bits of stone were too large in comparison to the photo references I have
Decided that actually this may be like doing brick work ............. as some guy in deepest Shropshire occasionally remarks "if you don't build from individual bricks it ain't a brick wall"
So on that basis intend to cast up various sheets of plaster of different thicknesses and build my drystone wall from these ............. will post the next exciting installment sometime soon.
Gordon --
The painting/coloring on the test stones looks really good ... they give the visual "feel" of stone with the subtle variations in surface color, etc. Nice.
Dallas
I actually like your original wall, except for the "jigsaw" pieces.
It is definitely of the "fieldstone" type as opposed to the flat cut stone shown in your next photo.
This is a pretty good example (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fpalisadesny.com%2Fmedia%2Fimage%2F2010-May%2FStone_Walls-2.jpg&hash=9ecb72372f21c1806bb3ae47d4d60dd6ca289f7a)
Well I am glad people liked the colouring at least, but lets not say anymore about the carving.
Tried the thin plaster sheets ................ even more of a disaster!
However one more attempt using individual (Nick may have a point) blocks cut from dense foam, piece is approx 6" long by 2" high
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135freelancecrawler027.jpg&hash=c3d6125ad04363f4ff7764aa76f4374b12123a97)
Only posting at this stage as I am not overly confident that I can reproduce the same paint finish
Now that's much better, its physicality is much more convincing; helped by the much deeper relief I suspect, and those capstones are what comes to mind if I visualise dry stone walling.
Curious as to exactly what type of foam you're using? - I don't recognise it. [type and source please] :).
Looking interesting Gordon - very interested to see where you're going with this???
The foam one looks VERY good to me, Gordon. Reminds me of dry stone walls I've seen in the Cotswolds (except for the color of course ;D).
Bill Martinsen
I think you could refine the carved stones to be reasonably convincing. However, the wall of foam stones looks terrific! It's hard to beat the authentic stacking of individual "stones", combined with the seemingly natural texture provided by the dense foam.
That foam stone wall is a thing of beauty! Now would you please do an SBS on "blocks cut from dense foam".....I mean what the heck kind of an explantion is that?!!! >:( How about giving is some useful photos and written instructions, so we can copy you!! ;D ;D
M
Thanks.
Andi
I got the foam from B & Q ............ in the home/loft insulation section. However have not seen it there for a couple of years!
(I do have a fair bit kicking around as I was going to use it for the base of the bottom yard ::) so if you want some PM me)
Marc
Now I not only have to remember how I painted the first wall but you want me to remember how the foam wall was built as well.
Will see what I can do
About painting those beautiful stones:
Some others here may have much better ideas but, years ago, I achieved a very convincing effect by covering cast resin stones with flat white acrylic interior wall paint. When that dried I stained the stones with a dilute India ink and rubbing alcohol mixture and later with dilute acrylic tan paint. The paint behaved as though it was almost porous and took the stains very well.
The trick, of course, is to find a base coat capable of taking stains.
Russ
I think you should make a mold of it and send 5 or 6
to all of us so we can help experiment with color(ing).
Marty
Marty, not a bad idea .................. however you have not seen the mess I usually make with silicon whenever I get brave enough to have another go at mould making :-\
Russ, good idea unfortunately I had already put some paint on it before I read your comments
OK its only some undercoat, a bit of a mix of Vallejo black grey & Vallejo German Green Brown surface primer ............. wanted to soften the shadows a bit by not using a straight black which I am beginning to realise is a bit harsh ......... especially in 1/35
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135freelancecrawler029.jpg&hash=2c6bca637acc4aeadb06c048d3f0e62f7a57f3b9)
The colour combined with the dark back ground seems to have confused my camera/me but at least it gives you an idea of the textures. Looking a the photo I need to redo the hinge pins in the gate post(another bit of foam ) look a bit lightweight to me
This has great potential, and the pintles don't look so bad - I'm more worried about this constant transgression into 1/35.
"Oh the Horror"!
STUNNING!!!!
-Marty
Foam seems to be your friend. Embrace it. Most adequate. -- Russ
Oooooh. Most lovely!
Marc
(Still waiting for the foam SBS.)
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 19, 2012, 02:07:43 PM
(Still waiting for the foam SBS.)
Yeah, I've got to queue up for this one too! Your cobblestone SBS is a true winner, bookmarked and slated for use here ... the foam stone walls look like another major winner. Sure, it's an imposition ... but if you can't count on your mates to be a pain in the arse at times, what are we here for? ;D
Nice stuff!
Dallas
Guess I am in line too for info on the foam stones...........
Are we there yet?
=Marty
Quote from: gfadvance on April 19, 2012, 05:35:50 AM
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F135freelancecrawler029.jpg&hash=2c6bca637acc4aeadb06c048d3f0e62f7a57f3b9)
Hi Gordon,
what I particularly like, is the Structure of the model blocks.
I tried this mine on my model and I am also currently playing with the task of trying to replicate this heap.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.design-hsb.de%2Fberggl02.jpg&hash=f5d12c624a9da2add40269758f7a28f300656cbe)
Tips very welcome.
Helmut,
I suppose it is difficult to programme your computer/milling machine to produce that pile from a solid block of brass ............ however with your skills I am certain you will try.
Boys, boys lets all calm down a bit .............. this experiment was only done less than 24 hours ago and there is nobody more surprised than me that it turned out the way it did ................. or that they would be other sad people in this world who wanted to build a 1/35 drystone wall stone by stone.
I am working on the SBS, trouble is having to build another wall so I can take pics
inspiration
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fdrystonewalloverstreamii.jpg&hash=c4211cf720b6b157dfeb07a598672ff3362d007c)
So far
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FdrystonewallSBS012.jpg&hash=911a87f7d784a63d9272a688db75c75ada7d6dd3)
Will do my best to post SBS, sometime tomorrow
Your new wall is a very lovely shade of aquamarine :o ... and, thanks in advance! ;)
I suppose everyone interested has a raft of different questions. Some that come to mind: Are you slicing the foam into various thicknesses and then breaking off bits? What are you doing to shape the faces of the stones? How much wood would a woodchuck chuck? And all the various other concerns and painting issues. Aside from going into all the excruciating required detail, this should be a snap. 8)
-- Dallas
oh! I can answer the wood chuck question! ;D
we have those in Idaho ::)
MPH
Quote from: gfadvance on April 19, 2012, 03:26:30 PM
inspiration
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fdrystonewalloverstreamii.jpg&hash=c4211cf720b6b157dfeb07a598672ff3362d007c)
Now that's really interesting... never seen a stone wall bridge a stream before.
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on April 19, 2012, 06:07:31 PM
Quote from: gfadvance on April 19, 2012, 03:26:30 PM
inspiration
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fdrystonewalloverstreamii.jpg&hash=c4211cf720b6b157dfeb07a598672ff3362d007c)
Now that's really interesting... never seen a stone wall bridge a stream before.
Tricky Brits!
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 19, 2012, 09:12:13 PM
Tricky Brits!
Yes! .................... the sun will never set on the British Empire.................
......................................but, that's only because God doesn't trust the English in the dark!!! :P
Andi,
only 1/35 scale 'cause if it would work in this scale , it will be OK for the proper scale.
Oh and I do have one thing 1/35 that needed a background
The piece by piece construction is the way to go!
(and deserves a new thread)
Quote from: BKLN on April 20, 2012, 03:21:28 AM
The piece by piece construction is the way to go!
(and deserves a new thread)
I agree, that a new thread of its own would be nice...I could actually do that....though in order to make it a wothwhile thread, it really should have an SBS to read and see.....other wise its just a bunch of really neat pics that leave everyone wondering what the thread is about. ;D
Your really enjoying this , aren't you Marc ;D ;D
Footings have been dug , foundations laid & first stages of SBS completed ............. its terribly complicated and may run to 100+ pages
SBS will be posted later today, fingers crossed, in its own thread !
May go all arty with the pics
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FDrystoneSBSI026.jpg&hash=15e7ca57d9289780b37e838d242b13653e833920)
Only joking Russ, been reading you photo crib sheet again
Quote from: marc_reusser on April 19, 2012, 09:12:13 PM
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on April 19, 2012, 06:07:31 PM
Quote from: gfadvance on April 19, 2012, 03:26:30 PM
inspiration
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fdrystonewalloverstreamii.jpg&hash=c4211cf720b6b157dfeb07a598672ff3362d007c)
Now that's really interesting... never seen a stone wall bridge a stream before.
Tricky Brits!
Ah. , . ,
But do you recognise what it really, actually is?
Its a single lane clapper bridge with fortifications 8)
must be in celtic territory ;D
possibly high on the moors near the source of the stream as it has not been washed away in a flash flood.
Got to be a rare surviving example, possibly?
Edit,
BTW, how did you hold the foam together for painting ? glue? or cocktail sticks down through so as have no glue showing?
Correct Don it is is based on an old clapper bridge, but not that far North its actually in the Peak District, Derbyshire....... south of me!
Housekeeping, Drystone wall SBS now has its own thread
http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1806.0
QuoteYour really enjoying this , aren't you Marc
Indubitably! ;D ;D
Well it's no fancy pants awsome stone wall, but finally am being forced to give a bit of figure painting a go. Gaack! :P :-X
...oh well, timeframe is super tight, so it will be what it is.....luckily it will be mostly concealed. ::) Maybe afterward, we can set poor Yorick on Gordons wall. :D
What scale is that?
Don't really know...its .490" tall overall....it seems to be pretty darn close to 1/20 (at least when I compare the skull to a 1/20 MaK figure head). It was an un-labled baggie at one of the hobby shops I was at some point a while back. It's a 2 piece white metal kit.
M
Quote from: gfadvance on April 19, 2012, 11:39:26 PM
Andi,
only 1/35 scale 'cause if it would work in this scale , it will be OK for the proper scale.
Oh and I do have one thing 1/35 that needed a background
You said you were going to give it to me !
Just back from the Fatherland , report later .
Andi wrote
QuoteYes! .................... the sun will never set on the British Empire.................
......................................but, that's only because God doesn't trust the English in the dark!!! Tongue
made me laugh out loud!!
good one Andi.
Michael
Went to use the work lamps I made here http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=549.msg31899#msg31899
and realised they were not really very good, so had another go.
Different technique this time, 6mm hollow square tube, drilled out holes for lights/lenses, inserted inner tube and details made with brass shim. because the wall thickness of the tube was 30 thou inserted some 15 thou discs in hole to lessen the recess for the lenses outer rim is fuse wire rolled around drill bit and cut off and applied.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FTestshotsVII022.jpg&hash=4055fb01454fba57dc59532a6f2f6292c05fed6a) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FTestshotsVII025.jpg&hash=fee2777eed5a69d0cec9fa8ca86ff7f4d8f75562) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FTestshotsVII044.jpg&hash=b2aa195b7a93febf0ca69666bda96ba8df957f16) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FTestshotsVII047.jpg&hash=95af0393108daa7fc699e52c58d6940f726e04d8) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FTestshotsVII032.jpg&hash=ea181c410f0d41e80f590e2cd8adbeca7b888e2a) (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FTestshotsVII035.jpg&hash=008799b0858d017b43ade50409ae6524e9d240d4)
The final shots in primer do not actually have the lenses fitted, the domed effect is just the masking fluid I used ............. which may be an idea filed away for future
Excellent Gordon - much neater and carries the "Look" better.
I think your earlier attempt remains valid as an evolutionary stage in your modelling of this very successful piece so should in no way be thought the less of ............. a most constructive exercise.
WOW!
Those are little jewels!
Hope you made more than one!
-marty
Very very nice work.
They must be tiny.
I agree with Andi. Kudos.
Still on the .060....christ, how many sides does this darn thing have!?
Now you lnow why i didnt want to do it in brass!!!!!!
Looks great!
Reminds me of something i am currently workong on.
Mj
Working on getting the old worn and abused plywood look....not easy to do.
A quick phone pic, of the progress so far..white bal a bit off...scale is 1/24 (no those aren't nails, but rather, round bolt heads)
Marc,
"round bolt heads"
You mean carriage bolts?
The bed wood really needs the metal strips in it, even if covered over with the plywood.
(IMO)
-Marty
Yeah...that's it...."Carriage whatchamacalllits"
I can see the practical logic of the strips....but the photo I am referencing only has the plywood. :)
M
There's By the Book, Common practice, and then whateverelse anyone does.
But!! under the plywood there would be factory metal strips between the wooden board's. I think modeling the pickup bed without the plywood laying in the back would look good ;)
Rough shot of finished ply bed.
Now I suppose you will tell us it's really mediocre modeling and you're very unhappy with it. And, if you were to write such nonsense, you would be exposed as a total goofball. -- Russ
Well ... I'm convinced.
Quote from: finescalerr on August 19, 2012, 01:04:24 AM
Now I suppose you will tell us it's really mediocre modeling and you're very unhappy with it. And, if you were to write such nonsense, you would be exposed as a total goofball. -- Russ
For once , Uncle Russ , we are in total agreement ... Christ, that was hard for me to type !
Nick
Marc,
Quote from: marc_reusser on August 19, 2012, 12:19:00 AM
Rough shot of finished ply bed.
... where did that license plate come from? This was originally used in American Graffiti ... on John Milner's Ford B ... IIRC ...
Cheers
Thanks guys...glad you still have your rose colored glasses. As I said Russ...IMO a strong 'B' at best.
Ha...Gerald...good eye. It is also the abbreviated title of George Lucas's first film. I needed an old style california license plate, did a quick google image search, and it was one of the first ones to come up. Decided to use it since time was of the essence, and to see how many people would notice. ;D
Marc uses a different radius grade curve than the rest of us.
Absolutley beautiful! Can´t wait to see the rest of the truck!
Anders
Wow awesome Marc, as always :o :o
1:24 scale ;)
Franck
Marvelous work! I got a kick out of the license plate.
Great look Marc, I love it. Shades of Robt. Duvall with the plate.
Just so you don't think that I only babble on around here...I am actually building stuff.
You would think that a kit that only costs $7, has a total of 25 parts, and is only 3x7.5cm, would be a quick and easy build. 60 hours into it, and more parts and pieces built, replaced and modified, than the original kit had.....and still not done.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ash4%2Fc36.0.403.403%2Fp403x403%2F248937_2496086977503_1580489871_n.jpg&hash=59755b3ea53a02f824d85ff997091e80a7f51677)
Marc,
but I would appreciate some sort of kit as the basis for a model in scale 1:22,5.
This is a great model but if you do so on.
Thank you Helmut. This one is 1/32. I do not know if anyone makes one in 1/24 or 1/25 (which you might be able to used in 1/22)
Hi Marc,
that's the nice thing about the scale 1:22,5, you get almost nothing
and therefore can or must do everything himself, as is seen in my mine.
I'm a great admirer of your work and I appreciate every report.
This is what 3-hours of mindless TV, no direction, and a pile of scrap styrene pieces gets you. (1/35 scale; 3x8 cm )
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-prn1%2F14592_2564120558300_911799172_n.jpg&hash=8fb151d4bb066a4fa9a27d5ee525f8254a58fa24)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-prn1%2F532558_2564121118314_529870089_n.jpg&hash=f0a5235f47ed3492420a379373ea986aed36df27)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ash3%2F563645_2564121198316_897278650_n.jpg&hash=2e3b54d88224a111703b2e95cc9be6ecd41aaaef)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ash3%2F27933_2564121638327_2111451240_n.jpg&hash=efbbe6a20c352f795eccd3f617958a18a487c87e)
M
Only styrene then?
Impressive, you've got some really nice texture on the slabs. (not sure of the word.)
Thank you Alexandre.
Yes, "slabs" is the correct word.
Yes, all styrene so far. I need to add some exposed stones/aggregate texture at the missing corner of concrete slab, and then come up with something that resembles asphalt, to put in the space around the post. Originally I was thinking of going stone not concrete.....that's why the drainage grate looks rough and mis-shapen, because I patterned it after some old drilled granite slab drains I saw in Barcelona. I also still need to fill the post with some concrete.
Very nice!
Can you tell us how you did the texture on the curb stones ?
( see, TV can be usefull ;D. )
Thanks Marc,
Unfortunately the "how to" might have to wait, as I had a phone call from a "guy".
...plus this example is a bit on the over scaled/done end anyway.
Very nice. I too would be interested in seeing how the textures were created. My one attempt at using styrene to simulate a concrete sidewalk was sorely lacking in that regard.
Thanks Ray. Glad you like the concrete effect...it's not that hard to do.
Figured I would finish this piece up, and get it over with.
Here a detail of the broken concrete wall with exposed rebar (all made from styrene);. Not quite happy with the aggregate yet...need some larger pieces...but maybe will look better once painted
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-snc7%2F430974_2565043581375_946327398_n.jpg&hash=6c6b740df65f2d7c013ceff533a0bc1860ed580b)
Here is the overall scene/effect. Wish I would have had some razor wire in my stash...oh well. May need to pick some up.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-prn1%2F60759_2565043821381_280959568_n.jpg&hash=d42529d11fada5fb6df8c74ffe9416d5c73b39e5)
Think we'll call this done.
Strewth ......... a few hours of mindless direction , think I will pack it in .
Mind you its all definitley out of scale so if I were you, I'd bin it ;)
I agree with Gordon. Burn it, then grind up the cinders. -- ssuR
There's that "guy" again with the hitched up pants, you'd think you could help him out?
I like the curbs! C'mon how'd ya do it? Give up the ghost!!
It'll take just two seconds to explain what kind of edge you used, dam it spill the beans
MPH
Oh yeah, there he is again! I think he´s been modelling long enough in front of all sorts of projects! Maybe that´s why he looks so pale? ;D!
Otherwise really nice work as usual Marc. Are you working from some sort of prototype picture? If so it would be interesting to see an image posted here.
Anders
I am really keen on how the textures on the broken concrete wall were created ;)
Peter
Quote from: marc_reusser on December 15, 2012, 06:54:17 PM
Thanks Marc,
Unfortunately the "how to" might have to wait, as I had a phone call from a "guy".
Vinnie's gonna break your knee caps for telling us "how to" on the concrete? WHO's in the concrete? No, wait, never mind ... don't tell me ... la, la, la ... I can't hear anything! ;D
-- Dallas
Thanks guys. I wish I could share more. As this was all just screwing around, I didn' take any SBS photos to explain the steps/techniques. So I need to go and do another quick piece and take photos to do an SBS........hopefully the publisher won't drag his feet too much...and I'm sure when/if it comes out in print, there will be a digital version as well. :P ;D.
Anders, there were truly no reference photos used for this, except for the corrugted metal layout. No thought, planning or concious effort, went into this....I just took a scrap piece from the pile on my bench and started at one end, and then did whatever came to mind at the moment.
Are you going to color it, or leave it in primer gray?
Ray, don't know yet. I have a feeling the guy will ant it painted, if not I will likely toss it, or use it to do some future painting/weathering tests or experiments.
Now working on figuring out what I could do with this piece of weird ribbed plastic.
M
For this evening's "It Came From The Scrap-Box" build, a rollup maetal door, perfect for your Mid-East/Small-Wars store/shop front. (scale 1/35; surround only loosly placed).
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ash4%2F486973_2567580564798_1024409175_n.jpg&hash=b942bf36f4a65b235148db8bbb39be0f0d0a17f9)
Don't toss it. If you don't want it, I'll stop by and pick it up. The darned thing is much better than you think. -- Russ
That's very kind of you Russ :), but I have only given 3 of my builds/experiments to people, and I have regretted it every time...not because I am/was fond of them, but rather because I feel really uncomfortable having a record of my work and mediocrity floating around out there....don't want that stuff coming back to haunt me.
M
Was wondering how you were going to do the roller shutter ...... now I understand .................. probably within the next 24 hours will be pinching that idea/solution
Quote from: marc_reusser on December 17, 2012, 02:08:20 AM
That's very kind of you Russ :), but I have only given 3 of my builds/experiments to people, and I have regretted it every time...not because I am/was fond of them, but rather because I feel really uncomfortable having a record of my work and mediocrity floating around out there....don't want that stuff coming back to haunt me.
M
What Bollocks
Perhaps, then, Marc would favor us with photos of the model's destruction. I suggested torching the atrocity but we could grind it to a powder and recycle it. Or maybe someone could eat it, although such things taste better with paint and weathering. -- Russ
May be he can drive his secret truck project over the old man and through the door?
Being a larger scale the truck should do some damage.
;D
that curbing really reminds me of something.could it be formed by heating over steam then the base of a spoon pressed in.it is too random to be cut or sanded.
i love it i want it
regards kim
Hi all, I admire and am constantly amazed, the meticulousness with which puts her in your diorama scene.
What Bollocks :o :o
I could'nt have said it better ::)
mph
i know how mark did the curbs ,the dog gave it a bit of a chew.
regards kim
Thanks guys.
Kim, nothing so complex ...it's all kept to "stupid simple"....and takes but 10 minutes per stone.
Helmut, You give me far too much credit...there is absolutely no thought or meticulousness involved in any of these pieces....I just sit down, pick up some plastic, and go where it leads me. :)
I guess if you're going to have a shop, you should offer your customers some cheap thru-wall air conditioning.
Piece is styrene (and a partial Lego, thanks Barney), side louvers/vents scrounged and adapted from an old 1/48 scale Ford car kit, rear mesh/screen I believe was the radiator from a 1/24 car kit of some sort. The part still needs some fill and sanding...but almost there. Not much to the left of the lovers will be seen outside the wall.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ash4%2F603295_2572348203986_1029425061_n.jpg&hash=bbe59f012fc7e32a1242eb9b186d8826305558ec)
I love the louvres. -- Russ
Marc commented: That's very kind of you Russ Smiley, but I have only given 3 of my builds/experiments to people, and I have regretted it every time...not because I am/was fond of them, but rather because I feel really uncomfortable having a record of my work and mediocrity floating around out there....don't want that stuff coming back to haunt me.
Marc,
Your comment reminded me of the old Little Depot layout in Buena Park.
Back in the 1970s, I really enjoyed that layout but when the business changed hands, the new owners started putting Tyco bulldozers and such on the layout without any weathering or repainting at all.
It destroyed the effect of the layout.
In one of my moves decades ago I donated some of my scratchbuilt buildings to a local club.
Years later I happened to visit the club and found members of the club had put the buildings in bizarre places and had made clumsy modifications to the buildings.
I decided that I will never pass on my projects again.
Tom Beaton has built and sold models for other people for a long time but I simply cannot do it.
I watched a "matte painter" for a studio doing a beautiful painting on glass for a movie. Someone commented that he was an true artist.
The painter pointed out that the was not an artist, but rather a craftsman. He said an artist falls in love with each painting whereas a craftsman does not.
He explained this project would be used for one scene in a movie and then it would be moved into a warehouse where it would soon be marred and destroyed.
He accepted that fact without any problems at all.
I don't consider myself to be an artist but I do like to think the few pieces I am passing on at my death will be treated with respect.
Marc, I have always really enjoyed your approach to the hobby. You can take simple materials at hand and make them into true works of art.
I hope you know that there are bunches of us no-talent people who marvel at your work and truly think you are an amazingly talented man.
Thanks for sharing.
always thought HORLICKS was a hot drink
Barney
Humbrol and Lego rules
Quote from: marc_reusser on December 19, 2012, 12:38:58 AM
Helmut, You give me far too much credit...there is absolutely no thought or meticulousness involved in any of these pieces....I just sit down, pick up some plastic, and go where it leads me. :)
Hi Marc,
Your statement makes me realize that you certainly have a very different approach to the model but it's my union to conclude your work.
Volker, Frithjof and I also speak as private together through model and all 3 have here an original what we insperiert.
Of course, the many other modelers do here in the forum so, but there are also like you to see something and think creatively, which I can make it.
I think both ways are good ways for outstanding model.
yea its good ::)
but where's the UL sticker ;D
just trying to keep you grounded :P
I miss our lunches with the soup Nazi Lebanese waitress
Happy Holidays
MPH
Thank you Darryll, I dont know what to say. That's very flattering. I like you're story...and I would definitely have to say I feel like the matte painter.
Thank you Helmut. Yes I do like to build just random things, and things that more often than not, be overlooked, or are common in daily life.
Gill, miss the lunches as well. I actually haven't been back in a long while. BTW....would really love to see you podting some of your builds here on the forum.
I know there is still a conundrum about the kerb stone technique...so I thought I would let you know, that it is possible to do it on a curved piece as well ;D (the textured part still needs the final step to get the finished look.)
...... Oh, and here is the extra credit part of the kerb quiz: how was this radius made using only styrene and glue,....no cutting, no sawing, no tools whatsoever ...and no, the styrene was not soaked in the glue to soften it. ;D
Cheers,
I have put curves in styrene by drawing the strip over the edge of a table while pulling down. Works for metal strip too.
But is that how you did it Marc?
Paul
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.uri-geller.com%2Fcontent%2Ffork2.gif&hash=1893e26886b726eb3c732f2aef58b8b73c93b9b5)
I know! You're mental ... ;D
I figured out how you made the texture! You used your teeth! Those are knawel marks! :o :o :o
Still thinking on the curved technique ??? ??? ???
yea yea yea I'll embarrass myself soon and put some of my work up :-[ :-[ :-[
mph
Lots of thin "layers" like can be done with wood veneers?
-mj
Ding! Ding! Ding!....Mr. Jones, gets the extra credit points. 7-layers of .030 laminated together around a curved form....in this case, an old jar. You want to be sure when doing this, that whatever you use as a form, is not something like plastic or ABS, that the styrene can bond with. After laminating, it is good to wait a about a day, to let it fully cure, before working it.
Quote from: Malachi Constant on December 20, 2012, 05:06:18 AM
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I know! You're mental ... ;D
LOL...unfortunately not in a good way. ;D ;D ;D
Marc "Uri" Reusser
Hi Marc,
I create such structures with dental burs free hand as the following example.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F6264%2F13P1000386.JPG&hash=92062b2cdfc3139d6f9d5335ecd7c7fc18f4b667)
The long narrow cuts (joints) are easily cut with a cutting disc.
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Dental bur and handpiece on flexible shaft.
If it's all about the turn, you can also cuts with a saw into the material make but you have been a perfect solution.
WOO HOO!!!
eat my dust boys!
"extra credit!" who's your daddy now!
-Mj ;D
Quote from: lab-dad on December 21, 2012, 06:15:13 AM
WOO HOO!!!
eat my dust boys!
"extra credit!" who's your daddy now!
-Mj ;D
Calm down , Jonesy , we would have got there eventually .
Yeah , but have you made a 1:1 curved door frame ? Well , I've made two garage doors frames using this method , so there !
Nick
This thread needs more modeling and fewer wisecracks. (I know, people who live in glass houses....) The potential for creativity here is great. Has anyone else done cool stuff with styrene? -- Russ
Depends on your definition of cool .. have these .. while not exactly cool .. a little un-warm perhaps
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Make stuff out of styrene? Sure! Why, I reckonspect I've made just about everything but the kitchen sink ... oh ... wait a minute ...
Why bother with conductive wiring when you can have styrene instead! ;D
Coffee mugs ... picture frames ... even the trash cans ... sometimes it seems the whole dang world is made of styrene! Heck, I'll bet even the idiot who put graffiti on the trash can was using a plastic can of spray paint. ;D
Need fancy woodwork? Try styrene instead! (Corbels)
Quote from: finescalerr on December 21, 2012, 12:23:18 PM
Has anyone else done cool stuff with styrene? -- Russ
Oops, you said COOL stuff ... well, no air-conditioning here ... will a belt-driven window fan do? (Mix of styrene, paper, wire and laser bits) 8)
Nice work, Dallas, but go stand in the corner. -- Russ
Ed, those valves look very cool to me!
Sounds as though Uncle Russ is more then a bit jealeous.
Some progress and messing around with painting and coloring on the post, bricks, and kerb stones.........but I am just not "feeling" it. :-\
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ash3%2F553403_2592423025844_1446733942_n.jpg&hash=b22acfb672d07744c91a655a533d99b452e91f02)
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M
[EDIT:]
I forgot to add the ubiquitous "product" photo. These were all the items used to do the post, other than Base colors:
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Steps:
1.) Base colors: AK "Chipping Color" followed by a dusting of AK "Old Rust"
2.) Mr. Hobby matte "Topcoat"
3.) AK Chipping Fluid
4.) Post Color: a mix of Tamiya Yellow & Orange/
5.) Mapping after chipping: a mix of Vallejo acrylics.
6.) AK "Winter Streaking Grime" applied with a brush, and manipulated with some 7.) Odorless thinner, and a make-up sponge.
8.) AK "Dark Steel" pigment carefully applied and variously burnished, at wear areas, and larger chipped areas.
9.) Light dusting of AK "Medium Rust" pigment on the interior of the post, and at some of the large chiiped areas....then blown and carefully brushed away, to leave only a very light residue at the chipped areas.
The post looks perfect. Maybe all the stone and brick need is some highlighting to change the dark, somewhat monotone coloration and then your usual finishing touches. -- Russ
Thinking it might still feel wrong because despite being aged, it still looks clean. I have to see the influence from Narayan in this little piece, and think about the small observations in his pieces that make you look longer and a scene that would be totally overlooked everyday in 1:1 world. A few stray leaves, bit of dust, few scraps of rubbish stuck in cracks or up against the corners, all will break up the apparent starkness of this early stage....big picture Marc, big picture...see the fuuuuture
Cheers,
Dan
Thanks Dan; yes, I agree.....I am holding out that it will all come together in the end....so as Andi always says KBO.
Last night spent some time working on the concrete coloring. Also added some stickers to the post, and some painted markings on the kerb stones. The oil paints and washes have started to give it a bit of a sheen, so looks like I may have to come in with some matte clear to knock it down, before the next step; I usually don't like to do that, but it may also help protect the coloring so far, from the dirt and pigment to come
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"Toto, I don't think we're in Plasticville anymore ...." -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on December 28, 2012, 12:50:53 AM
"Toto, I don't think we're in Plasticville anymore ...." -- Russ
Mmm, I think , Doctor , we need to up Reinberg's dosage . He thinks he's Dorothy now .
Heh , Marc , are you " feelin' it " yet ? 'Cos it looks good to me ,
Nick
Looks great so far. I like the rust stains around the post holes on the wall.
hi mark
looking good maybe the post could be a parking meter.i like the exposed steel reo rod.
regards kim
Cmon Marc!
Damaged stickers on the post?! :o
Excellent detail.
Some WIP.....
1/48 Scale
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1/35 Scale
Base color dark black/brown Tamiya mix, with an overspray of AK "Old Rust" paint....when dry.... Dusting w/ 6 pigment colors, wash of turp,...when dry.... random wash of very diluted AK Light Rust wash.
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Very cool Marc.
What did you use for the tar paper in the little shed? Could you explain your technique to get such realistic results.
No, No , No ....................
I don't mind a new piece coming out of left field ............. it does look rather good
BUT, don't start changing scale on me now !!!!
Gordon:
No worries. Top piece is a "shelf queen" that I am using to test some of the wood finish/colors on, as well as some of the AK washes.
Bottom one is part of my salt marsh scene. I didn't want bomb your thread, and didn't know where else to post my marsh stuff.
Wesley:
The base tar paper was done using the old Nash-Greenberg technique, of placing a single ply of Klenex on a telephone book page, and then giving it a brush application of Floquil grey(s) [you can use reds or greens, to do other tarpaper colors]. When dry the tissue will be bonded to the phone book sheet. The piece can then either be cut into strips, or left as sheet,....and weathered with pigmnets, dirt, acrylic washes, and as in this case, heavily thinned AK washes. N&G also used to use dity, and old dity Floquil thinner to color the tarpaper.
I did a good amount of the weatheing once the strips were glued in place over thin board-by-board roof sheathing...this helped deform contour the paper, and create areas for the weathering to collect.
Looking at the fine engineering and woodwork being demonstrated by others on this forum this piece definitley just falls into the "Bits & Pieces" category
(Sorry Marc, just reread that sentence, don't mean to denigrate your fine work in this thread ................ you know what I mean)
Having got a number of things into the paint shop and the need to leave them alone for a few days, decided that I would have yet another go at a 1/35 SWB Land Rover ............ I have tried this conversion a number of times always without success,probably due to me previously trying it with the Tamiya Pink Panther Land Rover.The combination of a pretty ropey kit + its raised suspension lead to an accumulation of pink plastic in the bin.
This time I started with this kit
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FLand%2520Rover%2520Series%2520III%2520SWB%2FIT6508.jpg&hash=fcacd2a726c5627b978561770faf2e1c2d2d6740)
and for me it was almost an OOB build ,shortened chassis to give the required 88" wheelbase and a bit of trimming of the bodywork ....... the hardest and longest bit of the build was converting the canvas tilt to a passable imitation of a non -works glass fibre hard top.
Most bits are just temporarily in place for the pictures so that I can break it down for painting
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FLand%2520Rover%2520Series%2520III%2520SWB%2FSWBLandRoverSeriesIII002.jpg&hash=251750cf0965d3de7ed67547142f8e4f760484bd)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FLand%2520Rover%2520Series%2520III%2520SWB%2FSWBLandRoverSeriesIII003.jpg&hash=d191a2c27dacf090aa26474e35b99802b10bd3be)
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This one I am pretty please with as it gets pretty close to capturing the look, although its still not 100% accurate as I have no doubt the resident "landy" expert here will tell me ;) (he might toss the odd brick ::))
Nice! Has a perfect "The Dogs of War" or " "Wild Geese" feel to it. You need to sculpt a fig of "Mad Mike" Hoare to go with it.
M
Actually - around here it looks like every other vehicle that's tried to knock me down or force me into a ditch! Usually with some demented and wild eye collie hanging out the back just to pour scorn on anyone that has the temerity to raise a shaken fist.
We're a little bit rural you see .............. Great start to a promising project Gordon - wrong scale again though. You 1/35th guys have it easy don't you??
Looking forward to seeing you on the board again - conspicuous by your absence you've been!
Big kiss -
Quote from: gfadvance on January 21, 2013, 03:06:16 PM
Looking at the fine engineering and woodwork being demonstrated by others on this forum this piece definitley just falls into the "Bits & Pieces" category
(Sorry Marc, just reread that sentence, don't mean to denigrate your fine work in this thread ................ you know what I mean)
Having got a number of things into the paint shop and the need to leave them alone for a few days, decided that I would have yet another go at a 1/35 SWB Land Rover ............ I have tried this conversion a number of times always without success,probably due to me previously trying it with the Tamiya Pink Panther Land Rover.The combination of a pretty ropey kit + its raised suspension lead to an accumulation of pink plastic in the bin.
This time I started with this kit
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FLand%2520Rover%2520Series%2520III%2520SWB%2FIT6508.jpg&hash=fcacd2a726c5627b978561770faf2e1c2d2d6740)
and for me it was almost an OOB build ,shortened chassis to give the required 88" wheelbase and a bit of trimming of the bodywork ....... the hardest and longest bit of the build was converting the canvas tilt to a passable imitation of a non -works glass fibre hard top.
Most bits are just temporarily in place for the pictures so that I can break it down for painting
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FLand%2520Rover%2520Series%2520III%2520SWB%2FSWBLandRoverSeriesIII002.jpg&hash=251750cf0965d3de7ed67547142f8e4f760484bd)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FLand%2520Rover%2520Series%2520III%2520SWB%2FSWBLandRoverSeriesIII003.jpg&hash=d191a2c27dacf090aa26474e35b99802b10bd3be)
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This one I am pretty please with as it gets pretty close to capturing the look, although its still not 100% accurate as I have no doubt the resident "landy" expert here will tell me ;) (he might toss the odd brick ::))
Series 111s . Can't be doing with them . The last great Land Rover was made in 1958 !
Still your renditition looks pretty good , though the "trim" around the hardtop looks a bit big . But no doubt a coat or two of paint will sort that out .
One day there will be company that finally realises that to produce an accurate model of a Series One Land Rover in 1/35th scale will be a financially sound move to make . I have asked them at Accurate Armour several times but all they mumble back is that it is on their list . They would rather spend their time producing obscure models of vehicles that have only a few examples in real life . How many people want to model a Fordson Mobile Canteen , fer chrissakes ? I reckon that a S1 Landy would outsell all the rest of their kits put together . Rant over .
Nick
QuoteI have asked them at Accurate Armour several times but all they mumble back is that it is on their list . They would rather spend their time producing obscure models of vehicles that have only a few examples in real life . How many people want to model a Fordson Mobile Canteen , fer chrissakes ? I reckon that a S1 Landy would outsell all the rest of their kits put together . Rant over .
How much do you want to bribe me to do something about my Britains conversion? It's a fairly safe bet that AA would release their kit about a week after I got it finished.
That's nice - but I think you are a brave man to enter the world of Land Rovers if you thought train spotters / rivet counters were bad dream on ! Keep it coming its a nice bit of modelling more details please on the conversion
Barney
Well, in my blissful ignorance, it certainly looks like a Land Rover to me! Now I just wanna see Marlin Perkins hanging out the side of the thing trying to snag a gazelle running at speed ...
Thanks for the comments folks, lets address some of the specifics
Nick,
thanks,you are right about the hard top......... think I knew that myself just did not want to admit it was wrong , hence trying to squirm out of it with the "non works hard top" comment
Gone back and changed / adjusted the rain-gutter and the rest of the mouldings
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Was thinking I could produce a Series II by using the front end of the Tamiya Pink Panther along with this kit .... appreciate there are differences under the skin and the chassis but what else is different on the bodywork ?
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Stuart (aka Barney)
Tell me about it ,already got a raft of comments re what is wrong with it !
Dallas
Don't know who this Marlin person is but over here there is really only one person I can associate with a SWB Land Rover and that is one Fred Dibnah
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I am guessing the Fred may well be one of Barney's hero's, I am certainly an admirer ...... anybody who build a mine in his back garden just so he can use the mine steam engine he rebuilt has got to be admired.
Gordon ,
The main differences can be seen in the photo of the 11A and your model . Namely radiator grill , position of headlights and sidelights and the shape of the bonnet . But , there is no such thing as a standard Land Rover so you can mix and match to your heart's content .
There will be more differences , such as dash board , but I'm not really up with these " modern " landies to make any definitive comments .
Nick
Quote from: marc_reusser on December 17, 2012, 12:48:07 AM
For this evening's "It Came From The Scrap-Box" build, a rollup maetal door, perfect for your Mid-East/Small-Wars store/shop front. (scale 1/35; surround only loosly placed).
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... sorry for digging out this roller shutter again ... but it seems to me, that there had been done another one recently IIRC ... ?! If so, I can't find it again and would be thankful for a hint ...
Cheers
Gerald,
I don't recall seeing another....and I know I didn't do one. ;D
What are you trying to figure/find out?
... thanks for dropping in, Marc ...
Quote from: marc_reusser on January 23, 2013, 03:22:39 PM
I don't recall seeing another....and I know I didn't do one. ;D
.. darn, I could have sworn there has been another one ... ??? ...
Quote from: marc_reusser on January 23, 2013, 03:22:39 PM
What are you trying to figure/find out?
... my intention was to compare the different appearance regarding the evergeen styrene profiles used, 'cause I imagined "the other one" would have consist mainly of strips (instead of half rounds) ...
Cheers
Little update on the Land Rover
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Nice! I like the mud, and also like the realistic look of the rims, with the rusty lugs.
Looks good!
I've seen worse. -- Russ
Great job Gordon ... that's pretty much how they look round here. Excellent mud - colour and splatter.
Gordon I really like the way the wheels look.
Michael
Well its as near as dammit finished , there are things I know that are wrong with and sure others will spot more , but as it was an experiment I can live with it .................... just need to remember the bits to sort for the 1957 Series I
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FLand%2520Rover%2520Series%2520III%2520SWB%2FSWBLandRoverSeriesIII047.jpg&hash=71621f122fd34ba8d79263146fb2c2e053d4dd9b)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FLand%2520Rover%2520Series%2520III%2520SWB%2FSWBLandRoverSeriesIII050.jpg&hash=f71d68d7de0722f663f0604b27f80bcf7572e7cf)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FLand%2520Rover%2520Series%2520III%2520SWB%2FSWBLandRoverSeriesIII046.jpg&hash=194f1b440e9a1dc56136ed5e9f8acbf9228b5856)
Will get the proper lights out and take some decent pics at weekend, & post them in the Gallery as a "finished piece" ...... a rare event which I might as well enjoy
Well, still blissfully ignorant of all the "nit-picky" Land Rover stuff, I gotta say that looks like a damn fine model to me! The finishes look great ... as does the muddy/grassy base ... really like those irregular edges on the scenicked bit too. Congrats on getting 'er done! ;) -- Dallas
What he said. (Dallas)
A great feel of a country Rover. Add a couple of Golden Retrievers looking out of the back and it would fit in with the Weekenders who come down to the Northern Neck of Virginia to play each Friday night then go home on Sunday.
Quote from: Malachi Constant on January 31, 2013, 12:55:39 PM
Well, still blissfully ignorant of all the "nit-picky" Land Rover stuff, I gotta say that looks like a damn fine model to me! The finishes look great ... as does the muddy/grassy base ... really like those irregular edges on the scenicked bit too. Congrats on getting 'er done! ;) -- Dallas
Dallas ,
You're best to remain ignorant . Life's too short to start going into all of the different Land Rovers and their variants .
Gordon ,
Good job there , Old Bean . Although it looks pretty "civilianised" for a military Landie ,
Nick
Congrat's on reaching the tape Gordon, a dear diary moment if ever there was one.
It looks pretty fab' alright ... it certainly carries the flavour of a Landrover, and for most of us - that's probably good enough?
Great model, great base work ... very well done.
Good job! I like the combination of dust and mud effects.
Satisfactory plus. -- Russ
I'll say, and pretty darn good too.
For an on-going project I needed to make some 1980's type metal fence panels.
These are 1/35 scale, each panel is approx 50 x 25 mm.
Constructed out of plastic rod
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FPripyat%2FPiripat019_zpsabc37ab6.jpg&hash=4648e15dd3964d4d7b4256a6b42c6114587e840e) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/gfadvance/media/Pripyat/Piripat019_zpsabc37ab6.jpg.html)
the now standard mix of various rust colours
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FPripyat%2FPiripat022_zpsff12437f.jpg&hash=4b78f7d9ffa6adb9ba692b0ebdfd803699263caa) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/gfadvance/media/Pripyat/Piripat022_zpsff12437f.jpg.html)
followed by one fine coat of hairspray, then various over sprays of different off whites. Left to dry for about 30 minutes and then chipped with a fine brush and water
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FPripyat%2FPiripat026_zpsf0fe44c4.jpg&hash=9a254901c39f0202b44e809ad73f2d7c571d363c) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/gfadvance/media/Pripyat/Piripat026_zpsf0fe44c4.jpg.html)
A well thinned coat of dark rust oil over whole panel, left to dry for a few minutes and then cleaned off enough to leave a "rust stain". Specific areas then then touched in with the dark rust followed with some slight touches of lighter rust tones
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FPripyat%2FPiripat034_zps2f089232.jpg&hash=72a5c05e9aaa13a1195860a15c37329b3ca4fd1a) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/gfadvance/media/Pripyat/Piripat034_zps2f089232.jpg.html)
Finally a close up of the top rail , each panel is being done separately as I need to be able to find out if I can replicate the finish
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FPripyat%2FPiripat036_zps736265e0.jpg&hash=b4cc7b0e71eb4237ad390c1c353d2760f620f7e1) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/gfadvance/media/Pripyat/Piripat036_zps736265e0.jpg.html)
Excellent little model/detail Gordon.
Great process too - looks do-able even for a lacksadaisical little so-and-so like myself.
Cool!
Splendid little detail piece, and nice paint an rust. Perfect.
Been wanting to build a sim barricade fora while :)
Marc
Wonderful! How on earth do you do that? Sounds so easy ... :'(
Cheers, Peter
Gordon,
Quote from: gfadvance on May 05, 2013, 03:05:49 AM
For an on-going project I needed to make some 1980's type metal fence panels.
...
Constructed out of plastic rod
... is this styrene ... ??? ... and how do you treat/bend it, that it remains in (new) shape ... ?
Cheers
BTW: Panels really look the part!
Incredible finish.
This is really scale replicas of the very ones!
Bravo.
Thanks for the positive response to this little piece.
Gerald
Yes it's styrene, will post some details later
Alexandre
Thanks, but it would not have been possible without your photos.
Nice work, very authentic!
How does this man do it - every day items that we just take for granted made from plastic but built just like the real thing !! amazing stuff and its little things like this that just seem to make the model become alive and its something you can finish - excellent workmanship and with a difference.
And one other project which I think is on the forum somewhere is the second hand door with little touches like the door hinges that are not there anymore and the holes to secure the letterbox -just little bits of detail that makes a world of difference to the finished model.just keep it coming
Mr Gordon.
Barney the unfinished
I want to add my admiration. Most satisfactory. -- Russ
That is one helluva nice job of styrene fabrication! The curves look even, the panels look rectangular and it looks like the proportions are good too. I suppose you can just retire now, before you screw something up! ;D -- Dallas
Quote from: Malachi Constant on May 05, 2013, 06:23:33 PM
I suppose you can just retire now, before you screw something up! ;D -- Dallas
Could not have put it better myself Dallas ;D
Anyway, I promised an SBS .............. so here it is in all its complexity !
Various bits of plastic sheet stuck together and the internal shape of a 6 x 3 panel out-lined with alignment tabs to hold the styrene rod.
I have to admit this was the second one I made, on the first I had the proportions all wrong and the corner curves were miles out ......... the amended one has the corners with 2mm radius's
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FPripyat%2FFenceSBS004_zps51ecba6a.jpg&hash=ca59e1f40487b28f14e60d8e080e41dac532f832) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/gfadvance/media/Pripyat/FenceSBS004_zps51ecba6a.jpg.html)(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FPripyat%2FFenceSBS006_zps91a433cb.jpg&hash=db269d875d311064bf4f9c0dd899c9efe304cc48) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/gfadvance/media/Pripyat/FenceSBS006_zps91a433cb.jpg.html)
For the main frame tubing I used Evergreen 3/64" rod (1.2 m) which is just slightly too large for prototypical 1.5" tube used in real life.
Because of the tight radius, before bending rod around the mould I let it sit in boiling water for a couple of minutes just to soften it and then bent it around, leaving the joint overlapping on the bottom.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FPripyat%2FFenceSBS007_zps7c40ad18.jpg&hash=03a4366ed5780079e85ffd2813cf296199a156ca) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/gfadvance/media/Pripyat/FenceSBS007_zps7c40ad18.jpg.html)(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FPripyat%2FFenceSBS009_zpsbf2307e9.jpg&hash=e9f3e7a4078a02f939a138b1225d6d2dcaf25c16) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/gfadvance/media/Pripyat/FenceSBS009_zpsbf2307e9.jpg.html)
The overlap was cut of through both bits of rod to get a tight joint and then the mould was placed in boiling water , let it sit in it for a couple of minutes to let the rod have a chance to absorb the heat.
Then taken out and left to cool down for 3 or 4 minutes then rod removed from the mould.
After that it was just a case of gluing ends together, marking of and drilling holes through the bottom of the main tube for the verticals (20 thou rod) ........ then laying the piece over a drawing with a number of parallel lines at the right spacing ... I just butt jointed the verticals to the underneath of the top tube.
(as an aside, during this I discovered that Evergreen appear to have a +/- of about 4 thou tolerance on their rod ... not that much on the larger dia rod but it shows up on this sort of work on 20 thou rod. My stocks varied between 23 and 17 thou)
Thanks for posting the SBS.
Very clever way to reproduce them.
Almost missed this. Very nice rendition Gordon.
Quote from: gfadvance on May 06, 2013, 08:17:29 AM
... Anyway, I promised an SBS .............. so here it is in all its complexity !
... thanks for the SBS, Gordon ... very much appreciated ...
Quote from: gfadvance on May 06, 2013, 08:17:29 AM
... as an aside, during this I discovered that Evergreen appear to have a +/- of about 4 thou tolerance on their rod ... not that much on the larger dia rod but it shows up on this sort of work on 20 thou rod. My stocks varied between 23 and 17 thou ...
... I recently bought some Evergreen strips (1,5 mm thickness) - some of 'em have a few thou more (1 strip measures up to nearly 2mm!), others some thou less ... ::) ... so I make my choice using my caliper to make sure being within the necessary tolerance ...
Cheers
I have found Plastruct rods to be more round than Evergreen.
Thanks for the SBS.
So the mold/form doesn't deform or warp after being heated in the boiling water?
Marc
Hi Marc,
No mould is fine as long as you make it sturdy enough .......... Think I glued 3 pieces of 40 thou card together and I also added a couple of lengths of 3mm square rod as well to the back
Typical old fashioned over engineering on my part ::)
Gordon, Gordon, Gordon. What is your aversion to metal, other than Russ sending you to the corner!
Might I suggest a trip to the store for a pair of round nosed pliers to bend some brass rod a little practice and voila a frame that you could glue in some vertical rods. Just sayin' or you could solder them.... a little more practice.
It would save all that aggro of boilin' water (potential of scalded fingers an all) and complex jigs that are only good for one size.
I guess bein' a Luddite I like using simple solutions for the job ;)
Superb modelwork by the way!!!
Michael
When I grow up, I wanna model cool little gizmos like Gordon's always coming up with ... so, I'm tucking this one away in my Gordo folder! ;D -- Dallas
PS -- Only found the one photo:
http://www.catskillarchive.com/rrextra/loadbox.Html
Morning Dallas,
Don't worry that one is already on the build list, well actually a slightly earlier version , if you look under Clark Trucktractor you will find some more pics.
Edit, just remembered this can be a bit difficult, if you go to Clark Material Handling global page, and then select history you will see some more versions, and I think the the un-cropped version of your picture.
I have posted some shots of these before here, but blowed if I can remember on what thread?
Since you've been asking for greater participation, here are some details I've done for a future diorama. It is 1/35 scale.
Feel free to comment, criticize or suggest improvements.
A lathe from Verlinden:
Pelle
And one more of the lathe:
Ahhh...equipment!
They look good, man is that lathe tiny!
In the compressor I would make the cylinder heads darker from the heat and progressively lighter toward the crankcase. Also (on mine here at the shop) the top surfaces are covered with dark "dust" and just plain yuck.
On the oil tank some fresh spilled oil (artists oil will work good; mix some brown and black) and some of the AK oil stains too.
And then may be some unifying dust on both.
-Marty
Marty:
Thank you for your input!
Pelle
This big tank is promising.
I'd add some chips (smaller) with a sponge or a 000 brush to vary a bit with your larger worn area. At the moment I think this area is a bit too uniform in the chipping. With a sponge/foam and both greens and dark brown this could add more realism and interest.
And just like Marty said, fresh oil leaks.
AK products such as engine oil, engine grime or dark brown wash are practical for this, but you can also have perfect results by mixing your own oil paints.
You could also mix some dust pigments to it, to show the glued grime and dust by the oil leaks.
Had no place to drop this..so thought I'd put them in this thread.
Had so much fun with the leaf litter on my last build, decided to use some of the left-over and add it to some home-made pine needle litter, to finish off the weathering on one of my 1/48 scale "shelf-queens".....this one being about 8 years or more
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/971393_3213473511718_620805515_n.jpg)
....made a quick base for it as well.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1002137_3213482711948_1740664880_n.jpg)
Great litter [How un-PC is that]? ... Base is dead FAB.
Thanks Andi.
A simple little touch that adds a lot. Idea filed. Thanks Marc.
And ditto the base...very neat and simple, making the model the obvious focus.
Cheers,
Dan
Very realistic ... except for the missing tree that dropped the leaves. -- Russ
Spent a couple of hours last night trying move from a theory discussed with Marc to an actual example.
These are approximately 1cm square. On the left was an attempt to model an internal concrete support with a polished or plaster top surface. The right is meant to be an external concrete post
These made from expanded foam, the type used as insulation in houses and my drystone wall, with the reinforced wire added at the end, the "plaster" was made from a fine water soluble modelling filler finely applied but with no attempt to completely cover the total surface
As I said very quickly done and just built and painted from what was lying around on the bench, there are a lot of faults but think the basic concept will work and with a bit more care a realistic finish could be obtained.
Very good ... and although I'm sure you/someone could pick it to bits; I recognised it for what it was immediately.
Shows a lot of potential for uber realism but would work pretty much as it stands for most lesser folk.
My only concern is the uniformity of the "concrete"
I think using plaster with the aggregate added would yield better results..... ???
At a scale distance though they are very cool!
-Mj
Inclined to agree with you Marty, had slight fixation about trying out the foam.
Looking at them after 24 hours beginning to realise just how bad they are ....... Back to the drawing board !
After 24 hours I think the one on the left with the polished or plaster top surface has promise.
I wonder if you could "embed" some small aggregate in the foam before covering?
Marty
A small Sunday relaxer and time waster build. Had all the extra pieces and debris left over from the last build, so decided I could use it all to build a display base to use for the NNGC.
Marc,
on first sight I thought it was a prototype picture. The colour of the long time rusted rails is spot on - as the concrete and the greenery is, too. Having had a longer look at it the leafs reveal it as a model. I can't tell you how to improve it. It's their thickness and maybe smoothness. Still searching an adequate material for myself.
Volker
Far more than adequate. Looks real to me, too. Vastly too sophisticated for the convention. -- Russ
Thanks Volker and Russ. Much appreciated.
Russ, re. the conv...that's okay...wasn't doing it for them...was just wanting to have some modeling fun, and do something so as not to just plop the model on a white tablecloth.
this is turning out to be an olympic competition USA-France ( Marc-Alexander) in groundworks :D
Marc is gaining up, ... and, ... it's a photo finish :D :D
Guy
haha, we don't run in the same circle.
Marc has always been better than me! :D
Great scene Marc. Wonderfully done, if Wonderfully exists in English.
Ha, that's funny Guy ;D
Boy can that Frenchman lie! Don't believe him.....I am merely riding around on his coat-tails.
There is supposed to be a third party in this scenery debacle as well...but he has been holding out....probably down at the pub...... typical Scot.
Superb! That concrete is perfect IMHO!!
Very impressive Marc, you mining a rich seam of of little scenes beautifully executed .
As for the slanderous suggestion that we Scots like a drink, I'm so shocked think I need a drink to get over it ;D
Me, I am half way between concrete and vegetation ;)
Gordon, if you were hoping to get that thing published in the December Modelers' Annual you'd better wrap it up. I've already started the book and wanted all submissions by Friday the 23rd. -- Russ
Well Russ was not aware of your deadline, mind you I never asked.
It ain't close to being finished , so maybe next year ...... In digital ;D
Quote from: finescalerr on August 20, 2013, 11:19:16 AM
wanted all submissions by Friday the 23rd. -- Russ
Haa! :'(
C'mon boys...shake a leg! You still have a few days to get it done...hell, next to chuck, I am the slowest builder here, and I actually managed to do a project in a day (granted, I already had all the bits laying about).
Knew finishing stuff would turn your head , now you are boasting about it.
We'll see ........... Of course I could just concrete it ;D
Yep...the head is just swelling up.
No worries....will deflate shortly.....just finished clipping and downloading some 100-200 reference images I need to sort through for my next build ....gaak...feel the air leaking out already. :)
That little sidewalk and rails scene is beautiful! That could go right alongside one of NK's street pieces.
Time to add another "bit" to this thread.
Needed to make one of these, an olld cast iron radiator
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FCast%2520iron%2520radiator%2Fimage_zps19e5fbe3.jpg&hash=ebab5ba1ab496461ba38317e1f0839907654d694) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/gfadvance/media/Cast%20iron%20radiator/image_zps19e5fbe3.jpg.html)
If my drawing skills were any good it would have been an ideal candidate for 3d printing, but they are not, so did it the manual way. Plastic card, tube and some cutting& sanding ....... Silicon mould and resin casting
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FCast%2520iron%2520radiator%2Fimage_zps8ecb5797.jpg&hash=c65b3ab7502dafe02909ed1d60ee454a47c9cec2) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/gfadvance/media/Cast%20iron%20radiator/image_zps8ecb5797.jpg.html)
Then just a matter of repeating and building it up
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FCast%2520iron%2520radiator%2Fimage_zpsa8ee2fe6.jpg&hash=c560271f6525cce3eb098675fbd14e2e8fe0b81b) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/gfadvance/media/Cast%20iron%20radiator/image_zpsa8ee2fe6.jpg.html)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FCast%2520iron%2520radiator%2Fimage_zpsd2fae351.jpg&hash=e9864fe70a9c0a3e76ab73a2d352b1c1b37caec0) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/gfadvance/media/Cast%20iron%20radiator/image_zpsd2fae351.jpg.html)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FCast%2520iron%2520radiator%2Fimage_zps68646eeb.jpg&hash=9a9eca993f882494c5e8988005e11a8461eeb2c3) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/gfadvance/media/Cast%20iron%20radiator/image_zps68646eeb.jpg.html)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FCast%2520iron%2520radiator%2Fimage_zps06a7b5d3.jpg&hash=9e9d67450010fdee17339b2c68df7aa4effa7d96) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/gfadvance/media/Cast%20iron%20radiator/image_zps06a7b5d3.jpg.html)
Struggled sorting out the end pieces which need to include the cast supports/feet but hopefully got that sorted , so will post final details soon
Well done it is Gordon.
The old "handmade" school still got some ammo.
:)
Good job! Nice to see something done the old-fashioned way.
Thanks Alex and Ray,
Got the end piecess with the cast in legs sort of sorted , not sure about them but will leave for the moment.
Radiator placed in context in a small test piece
That is a nice looking radiator, and more or less made like the original. Thanks for the step by step on it.
I like that-nice method.
I used to get in trouble in school by sitting by the steam radiator at the back of the class and melting crayons. Those dudes get HOT!
I need to model a dozen or more in 1/48 scale for a project I am working on, so happy to see how you built yours. I may find it easier to go with Builders in Scale (builders-in-scale.com) steam radiator kit 7421 since I already have three and they are nice kits. You can add more sections to make them longer but that takes more kits of course. I have much experience with casting in resin using silicone molds so will probably make my own. Need to order more Castolite SRP (the only one I have used to good effect) and make my own more like your style here, since that is the kind I remember best.
So if there was a melted crayon somewhere on your radiator, a bit of color could be added to balance what will be a good composition anyway.
Max being silly in MI
Very fun and cool...liking the the progress. More please.
Knowing where/what the scene is inspired from, maybe melted human on the raditor instead if crayon ;D
Ya know, I really enjoy a good "slice of life" movie ... far more than any overblown Hollywood production ...
Likewise admire the ability to envision a little vignette like this and then go all-out to perfect all of the textures and finishes ... fascinating work!
Dallas
I, too, am rather interested in this little exercise. It is adequate. -- Russ
Can't let Gordon get all the attention. :)
1/20 scale build to get the feel for the scale. The completed basic frame/structure so far. Some 140 pieces of styrene so far. Lots of detail bits and spot-welds still to do.
(https://sphotos-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1173764_3351076151698_476806182_n.jpg)
Inspiration/reference for the scene.
(https://sphotos-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1236985_3351093152123_1609726484_n.jpg)
nice job for your first time in the "bigs"
Cool subject
MPH
Quote from: marc_reusser on September 09, 2013, 03:37:42 AM
... 1/20 scale build to get the feel for the scale.
... come on, Marc ... just a little step further (in scale) ... and you'll reach 1/16 scale too ... ;D 8) ... 1/16 offers even more richness of detail and weathering galore ... :D
Cheers
Quote from: Mr Potato Head on September 09, 2013, 08:10:21 AM
nice job for your first time in the "bigs"
First time in the "bigs"? No, no! " That will surpass everything that has gone here before. Such a ferris wheel will take a lot of space in your "vitrine". At least three meters in diameter ... ;)
Seriously... I watch closely and with increasing interest that spreading Prypjat stuff here in the forum! Cool subject indeed!
Cheers, Peter
He did a 1/25th scale pick-up that was pretty good... ;D
Yes....The Pickup....I really liked that build ;)
Completely off topic - or I get awarded cross reference points, I'm not sure:
The really weird thing in all of this for me, is that the only 1st Person Shooter game I have ever played has a seriously good scene that takes place in this compound - I don't even remember the name but it is in the Call of Duty series. There is a level that takes place with a couple of SAS guys (no - not the old Swedish Airline with the cute stewardesses, Mr. Bikini Guy), and there is a serious set of CGI scenery that takes you all over the amusement park and the surrounding areas. The final shoot out of that particular mission takes place with you behind the Ferris Wheel on a small berm looking back towards where Marc's shot is taken from...
Paul
Paul, I have heard that one of the CoD games or such has a section played there...also not sure which game it is. However, there is actually an entire 1stPS game that takes place completely in and around Pripyat, it's called "S.T.A.L.K.E.R.; Call of Pripyat" http://www.stalker-game.com/ (http://www.stalker-game.com/) Can be played/downloaded from the web onto your computer.....I have not played it.
Hi All,
for a new quick build (another present for my future son in law who is a beach rescuer) I would need a scale-model rubber boat like the ones on this site:
http://www.zodiacmarine.nl/
I searched the net without result.
Could anybody help me?
Guy
Not sure if you are you looking for a kit, or planning on scratch-building one?
If the latter there seem to be enough general drawings online to put one together.
Google Image search results for "zodiac boat drawing"
https://www.google.com/search?q=zodiac+boat+drawings&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=fEcwUpzyJ4GMiAKE_IGYDg&ved=0CDIQsAQ&biw=1385&bih=952&dpr=1#imgdii=_ (https://www.google.com/search?q=zodiac+boat+drawings&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=fEcwUpzyJ4GMiAKE_IGYDg&ved=0CDIQsAQ&biw=1385&bih=952&dpr=1#imgdii=_)
Just a thought....what about any of the R/C boat forums or shops?
Here is a place in the UK that seems to have some kind of an R/C kit...not sure if it is the exact one...but maybe a start/basis.
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/mar2830.html (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/mar2830.html)
Here is a link to a 3D Model of what appears to be a sim Mil Version of the one you referenced. 3D model is $139...wonder if the file could be converted to a rapid prototyping format, or .stl format...and it could be used to print/machine part of it.
http://www.turbosquid.com/3d-models/military-inflatable-boat-zodiac-3d-3ds/625399 (http://www.turbosquid.com/3d-models/military-inflatable-boat-zodiac-3d-3ds/625399)
I am pretty sure you could probably take one of the file formats, and export it into 2D CAD files and then print plans from that.
Thanks very much Marc !!
I forgot to mention that I'm searching for a kit, I'm realy not capable to make this from scratch :-[
I will contact Cornwall Model Boats? Thanks again.
Guy
More clutter, will end up with the radiator, Russian Gas Mask
Excellent job Gordon...................you really are getting quite good at this aren't you.
Satisfactory. - Russ
Doing some experimenting to try and get that dirty grey spotting and build-up that tends to occur on old/abandoned Trabants.
The experiment is for a 1/24 build, but the experiment shown is on an already painted 1/32 scale piece I had laying about.
It still has a ways to go, but I feel the look on the far side of the trunk is getting closest...though still too heavy handed and dark (though might be okay for the larger scale).
Effect was done by dipping a makeup sponge into Turpentine, then dipping that into a mix of grey and green Vallejo acrylics, then dabbing/sponging onto the surface. Once dry, the leaves were added just for scale effect and context. Everything was then given random spot washes with a mix of AK Dark Brown, and Interior Wash.
(Sorry for the image quality, this was all just real quick)
(https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1382298_3448536308141_1744317281_n.jpg)
That looks great! And the effect will be "scaled" even better when transferred to the 1/24 project, as you noted elsewhere ... ("facepalm" or some such). ;) -- Dallas
Looking very real Marc, at first the effect seemed a bit "upscaled" but looking at the prototype pictures it seems to be spot on!
As a side note: I've been reading AK weathering magazine and loved your article on the diesel.
I've been also watching MIG's and AK's DVD's and it's amazing the amount of work involved in painting/weathering models, it's like an hobby inside the hobby!
Marc I really like the overall look of the leaf litter but the big birch seeds need to go, they give it away.
michael
A rare foray, for me , into brass ...... 1/35 scale dustbins (garbage cans)
Concept from Dallas, paint from Chuck ..........
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fimagejpg1_zps6ad9f1b9.jpg&hash=a38f72b12ce9b1995aa88dee3f42099057b68faf)
Satisfactory. -- Russ
Absolute rubbish! And a nice job of it. ;) -- Dallas
Nice bins Gordon, info on them please?
Les
Those are beautiful Gordon! But what is that strange foreign manhole cover?
Thanks folks.
Oh Chuck, now you will have started something ........ We will have Nick on muttering about colonials rubbishing our glorious Monarchs currency, etc, etc ,etc ............
Esteemeds gents, I'm simply amazed of what I see here, generaly speaking.
And here's my humble contribution - a 1/16 sewer lid, if I'm correct.
Made of some bits of styrene, as you may see, just in few hours. But the weathering ... some days ...
Painted with acrilics, 3-4 layers, pastels with turpentine and, in the end, real rust.
If you ask me ... I like the resulting texture.
Alex
Gordon, those trash cans are amazing! I'd like to know how you did them.
Alex, nice work on that sewer grate!
Alex, the results justify your effort. Very adequate. -- Russ
Nice one Alex!
Love the texture you achieved on that Alex.
Similar idea in 1/35 scale on a small test piece, this is a modified resin piece from Diorama Debris mould
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fimagejpg1_zps5de60a2d.jpg&hash=8944b16d837957d8c6b85c65f4e99b9ca8f95edd)
Much oblige, guys, glad if you like what I've done.
Gordon, I like your test, and I know now what to do with my grate.
Do you have, by any chnace, a color photo?
Alex
Here you go Alex
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fimagejpg1_zps9b876f89.jpg&hash=43f1f7208171ca12d04560253d91f876f1c0d358)
Thanks, Gordon, both files are in my deposit now.
Nick must be asleep so with reference to our Monarchs Drain covers " God save the Queen " and happy birthday on your 88th year.
Barney
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages9.fotki.com%2Fv1518%2Fphotos%2F2%2F1908522%2F10721944%2Fphoto-vi.jpg&hash=cc26a3f0c866b074b9a1d7042654386ea5007c89) (http://public.fotki.com/SRMacc/my-first-album/5221186-the-union.html)Hosted on Fotki (http://www.fotki.com)
If is about me ... then is 58th ... ::).
At 88th maybe I'll say "Too old to die, too young to rock'n'roll" ... if I remember me well ;).
Thanks and agree with you - Long live the Queen! I like her very much and I'm so sad not having a King also ... on the throne.
Alex
Now you really have got me going - Its Saint George's Day today so its throw out all your old Dragons plus its Shakespeare's 450th birthday - well past his sell by date ! all these goings on all in one week ! and of course lets not forget the engines with no headlamps so come on Nick wake up and come out of the corner
Barney
Progress...phone snappie.
That's some damn good-lookin' concrete & metal work! -- Dallas
Thanks Dallas. Appreciate the comment, as it is still a long work in progress, and it has been one long and frustrating road so far.
Now, if only I had been able to glue it down straight. :/
Nice! What is this a part of?
Thanks Ray. It is part of a 1/35 dio/vignette piece, coming later this year.
We were wondering where you have been. Now it is apparent you were lost in a diorama. Thank you for posting an image of your adequate work. I was about to refill the Saint Bernards' cask with brandy and lead a search party to Pasadena. -- Russ
"It's ALIVE!"
:o :o :o :o
Gene Wilder from Young Frankenstein
MPH
Missed Ya
That cannot be for real! In the last few weeks I tried to build up a reasonably correct gear wheel ... and Marc does such an amazing example almost overnight!!!
Any chance of a "how to do"?
Congrats, Peter
Well the gear is exceptional but the concrete is equally realistic.
Always glad to see anything you are working on!
Thanks guys. High praise coming from the likes of you.
Peter...the gear weel is easy, it's just styrene :D
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthumbs2.ebaystatic.com%2Fd%2Fl225%2Fm%2FmoYz1lBLTtbMfRKvTOGOldA.jpg&hash=c1ea1e387f41466903e381424789ec3f9e607d93)
So Real - looks like something I tripped over the other week - just a quick run down on how you achieved this little piece of art - please don't leave us dangling in the dark !
Barney
The One I tripped over
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages108.fotki.com%2Fv1629%2Fphotos%2F2%2F1908522%2F10721944%2Fphoto4-vi.jpg&hash=cb08033702d81b90d7bf6e0a78ec4306e555164b) (http://public.fotki.com/SRMacc/my-first-album/wheel-1-jpg.html)Hosted on Fotki (http://www.fotki.com)
So what is the purpose of these gears on sidewalks?
To trip over - then you can say dam it or similar !
Barney
Shucks Barney...you're going to make me blush. Thanks for the kind words. Love your real one.
How I did it is somewhat convoluted...I was trying some new things, as this dio requires numerous different rustes surfaces/finishes due to the different steels and wear.
On these pieces the steps were:
Grey Mr Surfacer Primer
Base color a mix of Tamiya; Brown, Hull Red, Yellow, Black
Dampened and ground sea-salt applied
Airbrushed over with 'Ammo' "Tracks Rust" acrylic
Salt washed off
Very liberally applied dirt brown pigment mix (no mfr on this mix, as it is basically just a concoction/result of leftover pigment and pigment dropping from other projects, that I throw/save into various "color range" containers.....this was piled into the recess of the webbing under the wheel, where wind and time blown dirt would accumulate.
Water was then applied to flow and set the pigment into the areas and let dirt
Once dry, some excess tapped off, and some adjustments done using water....one dry this was slightly softened/blended at some edges.
An oil based Dust colored wash run into/around some details/edges/items.
A light finger tip application, and artists stump burnishing, of AK "Dark Steel" pigment, at the top/raised portion of the gear ring, and at the teeth ridges/points.
A random application of a random mix of pigments: MIG "Allied Fading Green", my a medium rust color (this was another of my leftover pigment concoctions), and some of the original dirt colored pigment concoction.
All was fixed in place with AK "Pigment Fixer"
Sound like a lot more work and steps than it is.....it took about 1.5 hours to do, start to finish...including plenty of breaks to stare at it and wonder what to do next.
Oh go on Barney, you know you want to do all these steps , add all those pigments , etc, etc ........ So much more creative than OD or khaki , and you do do complicated now
Look forward to seeing your example soon :D :D
Humbrol Rules -Enamel of course just stocked up with 6 pots of green and khaki
But and there is always a but did buy some Tamiya bought it home in a brown paper bag and I used it with some good results thanks Mark for the info looks straight forward enough
Barney
Amazing. No one would ever guess that gear was plastic.
Thanks Ray.
Finally startingto add nature.
Simply: Wow. That's amazing!
Volker
It needs one more speck of dirt over on that side, just above the thing there ... otherwise, looking pretty darned good! ;) -- Dallas
It seems to be shaping up. -- Russ
Thanks. Slowly getting there.
Super Marc, curious to know whether you had to strip factory paint off of the wheel as it came from the package.
Thanks Chester.
To be honest, it never even occurred to me that it was painted...I thought it was that plastic color....but now that you mention it, I guess it was painted. I lightly sanded the raised rim and center rim on some 400, to get them into the same plane, and I used my fiberglass pencil to lightly dull/rough the other surfaces, to help the primer stick better.
Dang, where's the Like button?
Fantastic work , Marc !!!
Excellent as usual.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Not to everyone's taste I realise ::) , but 1/35 scale discarded cigarette butts
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fimagejpg1_zps38369866.jpg&hash=d26d963b1136f283525ab4fbabc84fdacb93c72d)
Okay, Gordon ... how the heck did you do that? You've got the shapes, the coloration ... what-the, how-the?
Nice work!
Dallas
Actually that photo was taken outside Barney's house today and demonstrates the total disrespect he showed for his host by not disposing of his old fag ends properly after his numerous breaks from bating and generally winding up his afore mentioned host .
It was good fun !
Thats just great!
Mj
Amazingly realistic!
It's always nice to see bad habits modeled well.
Dallas
0.3 mm brass microbore tube from Albion Alloys, 0.2 would have been closer to scale but didn't have any.
Cut to various lengths, between 30 to 80 thou.
Bent and or flattened with tweezers, cut extra as you will loose a few as they ping off into obscurity.
Primed and then painted with Vallejo off white , then light brown for "filter" ( 25 thou in length). End lightly touched with German Cam black brown.
Attached to base with gravel fixer and then dusted with some light grey dust pigments
Found the brass tube better than plastic rod as I could flatten and bend it better , might try annealing it next time.
Nick
Great comment, & how true ;)
Is this April Fool's Day or is that actually a model? -- Russ
Russ, just for you ....... un-cropped version which shows I lifted paint off on one of the butts with tweezers
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Fimagejpg1_zps701705b0.jpg&hash=7ca3114f1b5ab7310dd3dc260745c475215ddac6)
I like that very much, Gordon. The model. Not the prototype.
Volker
just amazing !
top notch job !
Thanks! Was wondering how the heck you got both the cylindrical shapes AND the "squished" look -- the micro brass tubing is a brilliant solution! Agree with you on the off-white ... I don't use actual white on anything any more ... the Vallejo "chalk white", camo whites, etc work much better in these situations ... even the "whites" of the eyes are done mixing off-whites into very light skin tones ... nice work! An extremely realistic and "ordinary" detail that's easily overlooked ... and not easily so well done. ;) -- Dallas
A bin to catch the swarf off the lathe.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2F1A71BD9F-A4A4-4884-A807-444CC2156D25_zpsaz4bl5ov.jpg&hash=e5f70da7521a9f10eb2230cde4442a476a3ea7e8) (http://s263.photobucket.com/user/lab-dad-jones/media/1A71BD9F-A4A4-4884-A807-444CC2156D25_zpsaz4bl5ov.jpg.html)
Nice to be able to use the scrap from my work.
Mj
Now that looks realistic !!
When are you getting back to the floor boards? The picture will get even better with some wear & tear, oil & coolant stains, etc.
Two great additions to the thread. I don't know how expensive ciggies are over there, but a couple of those are still worth picking up. :P
Nice detail Marty.
Yeah, what Chuck said. What a couple of terrific models. -- Russ
Quote from: Chuck Doan on May 18, 2014, 01:31:28 PM
Two great additions to the thread. I don't know how expensive ciggies are over there, but a couple of those are still worth picking up. :P
Nice detail Marty.
Now you mention it , it is surprising that Gordon , being a frugal sort of chap from north of the Border , discarded those fags before they were completely smoked . Maybe he had things on his mind . Like the thought of spending even more money on the impending nuptials of his delightful daughter , ( never met her , but I'm sure she is ) .
Triffic modelling , by the way , Marty . looking forward to seeing the finished model .
Nick
And the English wonder why we want independence.
Still in this PC world, I reckon for that racial slur I could take your "still unfinished" house, your money and your series one Land Rovers off you via the courts, no problem ;D ;D ;D
If My Learned Friend would indicate to what he is referring ,then my client might see his way to forwarding an apology
To you good self . Until then.....!
Horace Rumpole
Too late for editing Nick, already printed it and forwarded the original to my solicitor, my daughter in law .... Handy that ;D ;D ;D
P.S. Perhaps our learned friend Mr Rumpole would like to explain to the jury why his client subsequently went back and attempted to alter the original document , deleting and amending the phrase in question.
Is this not by his very actions confirming his guilt.
Yes, a little cutting oil on the floor (and everything else if I was doing the turning) and some debris and you have a terrifically realistic scene Marty. Love the catch box.
Amazing work by all.
Jerry
Quote from: Gordon Ferguson on May 19, 2014, 12:14:51 PM
Too late for editing Nick, already printed it and forwarded the original to my solicitor, my daughter in law .... Handy that ;D ;D ;D
P.S. Perhaps our learned friend Mr Rumpole would like to explain to the jury why his client subsequently went back and attempted to alter the original document , deleting and amending the phrase in question.
Is this not by his very actions confirming his guilt.
Stop jawing already, and do what any proper Scotsman would do when it comes to slander and legal matters....knock him upside the noggin with a copy of Blackstone's Law Dictionary.
In progress (1/35). Styrene...and rivets. Top of weight-trolley box, and wheel stop, are intentionally wonky. (..and yes, the ratchet track and gear do interlock :P )
Interesting!
Wonky indeed. And neatly built. -- Russ
That is pretty interesting!
I like the missing wing nut.
Will the (missing) handle eventually move the box too?
Mj
Yay! This must be a detail part for the long anticipated continuation of the "Watery Grave"!
Yes?
Yes?
Could this be the surprise we all have been waiting for??
Jerry
Nice! What is your source for the spiral spoked wheels?
Marc
Another cool project, those are cool wheels, where did they come from?
MPH
Thanks Guys.
Christian; No :)...sorry, not Watery Grave .....think it I will call this one more something like "To/From/Dreams-of, Distant Shores"...or some such drivel. :)
Marty; the cart won't work because the vandals stole the handle.
Ray/Gil; Wheels are from an O-scale Grant-Line "mine car" kit.
Marc,
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 21, 2014, 01:29:19 AM
Christian; No :)...sorry, not Watery Grave .....think it I will call this one more something like "To/From/Dreams-of, Distant Shores"...or some such drivel. :)
... I do not have the foggiest idea about the purpose of that "vehicle" ... seems some kinda "ballast" (water?) has to be balanced/adjusted ... hmmmm - does not look like tractor pulling ... ??? ::)
Cheers
I know...strange;...almost looks like it could be something along these lines....but probably not. :)
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 19, 2014, 09:20:32 PM
In progress (1/35). Styrene...and rivets. Top of weight-trolley box, and wheel stop, are intentionally wonky. (..and yes, the ratchet track and gear do interlock :P )
Hello Marc,
which is certainly a great model of a ballast boom.
I'm curious how the construction progress continues.
Thanks Helmut. At the moment it is progressing slow...and behind schedule. :D
Marc,
I will patiently wait for the rust and dust to come...
A little more progress....and rivets.
You made a positive remark on my crane Marc (the one on the Ruston in the Gallery section), yours is definitely a good few points better. Rivets are wonderful things that enhance any model.
Les
Hi all.................
Been lurking in the background - pretty much most days actually, anyhoo, haven't felt able to contribute much but whilst irritating Gordon over the weekend with a phone call he mentioned perhaps I ought to at least let folk see what I'm about. Well it's a WNW Sopwith Pup, I haven't posted a build thread here so thought "Bit's and Pieces" might be the best place for it?
.......... Some of the blurb will seem a bit abstract but I pinched it directly from it's build thread over on the WWI airyplaney forum ................Without much further ado then.................
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi180.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx248%2FAndismodelpages%2FSopwith%2520Pup%2FPup-26_zps55ac0a5b.jpg&hash=47d86b2e1f2f4ce133475e21f80eb55bd5a236f1)
I have her shoes and socks on - plus her whirly bit. Some final modelling and paint around the wing root to hopefully tie them together.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi180.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx248%2FAndismodelpages%2FSopwith%2520Pup%2FPup-25_zps7ffe3b9b.jpg&hash=fa6255cc2c5f5f7a3446ea0c761ea0e6fb906283)
Annnd the other side for evenness sake............same again - bit of fidlin' with the paint and stuff.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi180.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx248%2FAndismodelpages%2FSopwith%2520Pup%2FPup-27_zpsb914d5cf.jpg&hash=43a61c5f2c58fe9a246c93c12fdb50b832c9026e)
Back round again for a squarer shot in order to see how all that rough stuff along the fuselage now hopefully marries into the other parts of the aircraft?
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi180.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx248%2FAndismodelpages%2FSopwith%2520Pup%2FPup-30_zps2231625e.jpg&hash=abfcc158867a70065f7a8e1b2736ab77321d2764)
On her nose in order to see where she has rather embarrassingly dribbled - in the destructions there's an upended aircraft which is decidedly filthy in this department - so I was encouraged to really go for this!!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi180.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx248%2FAndismodelpages%2FSopwith%2520Pup%2FPup-29_zpsd6f7f318.jpg&hash=ca1508de854d902e44eee7055651a7ddbc5b89c3)
And a miraculous flyby -(No top wing etc) - just for the effect?
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi180.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx248%2FAndismodelpages%2FSopwith%2520Pup%2FPup-28_zps3f7c18be.jpg&hash=20e19920e742fbb2344231b695893411b326146f)
Annnnd she's gone!
Just working up the courage now to tackle the top wing and it's associated demons - oh! and of course those couple of frighteningly tiny runs of wire between the bottom wing and the undercarriage legs - every fibre in my body is telling me to walk away from those!!!!
And I know I have to paint the rear of the propeller boss too - it, like the wheels are just posed at the minute.
Feel free to mutter ............ until next time ...............
Soon-ish - hopefully.
Cheers cheps!
Andi Little, I like it so far...
Andi, you were right ..... You can't paint, no idea of colours, weathering how to capture different materials and surfaces ..... Yea absolutely crap !!
OK now that we have cleared that load of bullshit you sold me out of the way ........ That looks pretty good to me mate, you might even have achieved "satisfactory" status :D
Really pleased you posted this, although it does not help my fight not to buy any of these Wingnut kits ...... Mind you I do hear that most of the production is being accumulated by someone trying to corner the market and make a killing sometime in the future. ....... Bloody speculators!
Keep the pics coming Andi, especially the setting for this one ....... Flying of a 15"gun turret I hope .
P.S. Yes you really did make a mess of those wheels :P
Wow, I like that Andi! Those kits are great; I have been seeing some excellent planes lately, and here is another one.
Rigging those must be a trying experience?
Marc, nice job on that crane boom!
Andi, that Sopwith is a beauty! I love the weathering and overall patina, very well done!
We see very few aircraft models here, Andi. Please keep us up to date with yours. It is most satisfactory ... so far. Marc's most recent meticulous mayhem ain't bad, either. -- Russ
Wow, Andi! What a truly lovely piece. Though I have to agree with Gordon...the paint and weathering are utter crap! :D :D :D ...I think when you are done with it, you should send it directly to me so I can figure out how to fix it. :D :P
I do very much like the oil weathering effect. How di you go about creating it
Many thanks guys - I really do appreciate your kind comments, I still think the pic's flatter to deceive ... but I'll take 'em anyway: Cheers!
Marc' ... I wish I could lay claim to some rarefied and esoteric technique that I learnt whilst contemplating my navel at some Tibetan mountain retreat, but! ...
I can't ... I can't even really tell you how I did it because I just fart about going backwards and forwards repairing and ruining effects in equal measure!!!
I can however tell you that the oil staining on the canvas areas was achieved with "artists" oils in the large, one proviso is the use of pure turpentine as a thinning agent. It's as non greasy as you can get for a mineral based thinner and doesn't hold the paint back - whilst Turp's substitute (think refined diesel) will just take ages to dry. Once it's been on for a little while I would "feather" it with a large soft brush (#12 Watercolour brush - cos' I is got millions of 'em) ... any oil "wet spots" were then put on over the top for effect.
The Castor staining under the chin and fuselage is various mixes of Burnt Umber and Black waterproof inks - drizzled and drawn back along the aircraft with a bit of fine airbrush work to show airflow build-up behind any features or fittings that get in the way.
Hope this helps? But I suspect nothing you haven't done already or couldn't figure out in a heartbeat.
Thanks again everyone.
PS .............. did I not post this??? .......................
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi180.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx248%2FAndismodelpages%2FMorane%2520Saulnier%2FMorane-26_zps7cdf27ee.jpg&hash=89aebc8a746f64fd108689b94c984ed39a805a82)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi180.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx248%2FAndismodelpages%2FMorane%2520Saulnier%2FMorane-33_zps75730b54.jpg&hash=95b569a7ae237998d07cdf173bf0f490825fba39)
I've seen worse. -- Russ
Andi, These are absolutely superb builds. Takes me right back to my childhood visits to the Aircraft hall in the Aust. War Memorial in Canberra. You are able to get all the details to add up to the right overall feel. Hats off.
Narayan
Narayan, where have you been hiding? -- Russ
Russ, Sorry for my low profile. Real life has kept me very busy with a move from our temporary (5 years) location to the renovated museum and some big projects one of which recently got some press coverage:
http://www.bostonglobe.com/arts/theater-art/2014/05/20/harvard-rothko-murals-seen-new-light-with-revolutionary-new-projection-system/UspSbL0csFjeM2cwSflKON/story.html
http://artery.wbur.org/2014/05/20/harvard-rothkos
But I have some small dios that I will post this week, I promise.
Narayan
The first article suggests the solution the second article describes. Only a creative scientist with the kind of twisted mentality that many of us here seem to share could come up with such a brilliant and nondestructive solution. -- Russ
Nice to hear from you Narayan! Those articles were very interesting. Pretty neat to be part of that!
On another note, I found this on one of my searches:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages108.fotki.com%2Fv1629%2Fphotos%2F9%2F777399%2F10366138%2F266792899_405ec345aa_o-vi.jpg&hash=f7de08bce221f25508655cee436001ae1416dc0f)
Chuck that is very cool. Thanks for sharing.
Still at it...
closer....
Always good to see progress!
Nice!
Progress ;D
Looking forward to seeing some paint
Good to see you moving forward.
Jerry
Bit of fun, few bits from VectorCut & some plastic ...... And finally some paint equals an old garden roller
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2FGarden%2520roller%2Fc0a87d52-a520-496c-a7ce-b6a9009ef2cb_zpsf643b20a.jpg&hash=c547a8c1a5c27eff4abb187cf6fbba18824f249c)
That's pretty cute! - Got most of it figured out but would like some clarification on how you did the roller surface - it works well.
Well done chap ... pip pip!
Looks good!
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on November 02, 2014, 04:56:03 PM
Looks good!
Ditto. Especially the 'flattened' rust is very well captured.
Volker
Credible. Adequate. -- Russ
Turned these pieces last night eventually some of my future clutter, etc.
Philip
Working backwards thru this thread.
Man, .....many great ideas.
The 1/35 cig butts made me laugh.
A packet of those a day, would help me quit smoking
Mario
PS... nice to be back, looking at non railroad miniature's
A distraction... (in progress)
...from the actual build
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 01, 2015, 12:20:45 AM
...from the actual build
Talk about compressed storytelling!
Both look VERY interesting!
I'm curious about the origin of that two-seater "rocket sled".
What materials make up the diorama? Do I assume you have primed everything at this point? Can I come over and ride on the rocket sled? -- Russ
Ah, grooved rail - this is going to be interesting ;D!
I assume the disturbing rocket's origin in a former rather lefty orientated country. Chernobyl?
Cheers,
Volker
Quote from: Hauk on May 01, 2015, 02:51:41 AM
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 01, 2015, 12:20:45 AM
...from the actual build
Talk about compressed storytelling!
Hauk,
I was really trying to create a compressed scene on this side of the wall, to sort of hint at the concept of an encircled (claustrophobic?) city that is forced to develop within it's confines...the details are pretty much as such in areas along the wall, but by moving it all closer to the edge I feel I was able to increase the effect. The other side of the wall in contrast will be far more open....but far more barren, and grey.
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on May 01, 2015, 11:33:20 AM
Both look VERY interesting!
I'm curious about the origin of that two-seater "rocket sled".
Thanks Ray. The rocket sled is a photo of a piece of playground equipment, from I believe one of the old East-Bloc countries. I ran across the image on FB somewhere.
For some reason I just couldn't pass up giving it a go before Gordon did it out from under me. :D
Quote from: finescalerr on May 01, 2015, 11:53:44 AM
What materials make up the diorama? Do I assume you have primed everything at this point? Can I come over and ride on the rocket sled? -- Russ
Russ,
The wall pieces are resin castings by Alex Friedrich, (the image shows them in various stages of prep/surfacing with tinted Liquitex "Modeling Paste"). The cobble stones are heavily modified Verlinden resin cobbles (individual stones). The guardrail is fabricated using brass tubing; the tram rails, curb, and everything else is fabricated out of styrene.
If you can get Slim Pickins off it, you are welcome to.
Quote from: Hydrostat on May 01, 2015, 12:02:11 PM
Ah, grooved rail - this is going to be interesting ;D!
I assume the disturbing rocket's origin in a former rather lefty orientated country. Chernobyl?
Cheers,
Volker
Volker,
Yes, grooved rail....but a poor step-child to yours. :D
I think the rocket is just plain East-Bloc somewhere. Can almost definitely say it wasn't Chernobyl....though, that (Pripyat) is probably, where I will be placing it. :)
Is this project tied at all to the abandoned swimming pool from the same continent?
I like the uptight feel with the short distance to the edge. If you're standing there you don't have much choice except to peek inside.
Thanks Bill.
No, nothing tied together. ..all just random thoughts and projects rattling around.