1/35 Paper Structure Vignette

[marc_reusser]

Marc Reusser
12 hours ago via mobile
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Today strated off with concrete work. Shown here is the installed area, with some initial staining and washes. Base color came out a bit more tanthan I was after...but I don't have the time to sweat it...and its always better to be on the warm side in concrete instead of on the cool.

Concrete was made in the following manner:

Plaster mixed with CMK and AK pigments, and some random finely sifted... dirt (to represent aggregate, and to give texture) was poured into temporary molds, made of .060 stip styrene fstened to a piece of glass with double sided tape. When thelaster has started to cure, the excess overflow/ plaster was scraped from the top, using the a piece of sharpened spring steel, and the styrene surface as a guide/level.

While the plaster was still lightly damp, the mold strips were removed, the pieces carefully lifted off the glass with the spring steel. Still leVing them face down, the back was covered with a thin layer of glue (I use Elmers Carpenters Glue, but any white glue should do).... onto this was then pressed/laminated a piece of white tissue paper (leave the paper larger than the piece..it can be trimmed later). When doing this last step, take care not to get the glue on any visible edges or on the surface of the piece, otherwise it won't take staining in those areas. Note- if the feices broke cracked or chipped when lifting from the glass, handling, or attaching to the paper....that is fine....just fit them together, and glue the paer across all of them...this will hold them together.

Once all the pieces have been backed, I flipped them over ( they were still cool/damp to the touch at this point), then using water and a stiff brush, I began to wash and stipple out the the plaster ftom the surface (this is similar to acid or spnge washing real concrete/cement)....the softer and still nit fully cured plaster, can be washed/scrubbed/stipppled put from between the aggregate (sifted dirt), leaving a textured and softened surface, as well as softened edges (the amount of softening and surface texture will depend on the amont of washing/scrubbing/stippling....and how cured the plaster is). Tthe plaster can also be broken more at this point by bending with your hands...or applying heavier pressure during the stippling. He pieces can now be set aside to dry...dried with a hair dryer. Once dry, the peices can receive an initial staining with enamel or water based colors, or pigments.

Lastly, the pieces can be cut to size and shape, using a sharp Xacto, and glued to the base, using white glue. Once the peices are in p, ace additional unifying and specific staining, coloring, and wethering can be done.




Holes/locations for adding details such as grates and sewer covers are easily cut/scored in using an Xacto, and lifted/chipped-out using a small chisel. (Removed ares were painted with LifeColor acrylics, to prevent any exposed edges/areas from showing when the details and dirt are added.)

[lab-dad]

Coming along!
Great ideas, thanks for sharing.
I had thought of using gauze or drywall tape (mesh) to support for cracking.
Marty

[Malachi Constant]

Repeatin' what I said elsewhere ... super freakin' cool slab work ... BUT ... seems like the extra detail toward the outside edge of the slab (dio edge) draws the eye the wrong way.  That busted-up detail looks really freakin' good, just maybe in the wrong place 'cuz it is an eye-catcher.  -- Dallas

[Gordon Ferguson]

Oh don't worry Dallas by the time he adds all the "vegetation" and stuff you will hardly notice the stuff at the front!

[finescalerr]

Should have made the sidewalk from paper, too. Cheater.

Seriously, I still recall the things you did with the instructions and box from a truck model. Bet you could come close to the plaster's appearance with card and a lot more time and effort.

Russ

[marc_reusser]

As Gordon , there is still a lot to come, that will hopefully draw you eye inward; though you could be right. I actually never think of this stuff when starting a scene, I have never been good at planning them...I'm way to I indecisive and often to grandiose....so like on this, I just tend to start someplace and keep building.....I have a general idea....but 90% just evolves/develops as I go....till time or interest runs out...or till I realize it's truly rubbish. Also like on this, my purpose is usually experimentation, learning, or showing something....and the scene is just secondary...so it often is lacking in creativity or focus.....and once I get to the point where I have achieved or not, the thing I was trying to learn/see/show, I tend call it done, and bin it or toss it in the closet. (reason No.7 why I almost never finish a model )

Marty, I had thought about the mesh, but for the thickness of the plaster (.060), I feel it would have been too heavy,...thus allowing less random cracking, and I would probably have had to embed it, rather than gluing it to the back, which would then allow the mesh to show in the larget cracked and chipped areas.

Russ, the original plan was to adapt/modify a new printed concrete paper product from Uschi Von Der Rosten products....but there was a delay in the manufacture/printing of it...and thus was limited in time to do an alternate solution....but hey, it still uses paper as a backing.

Today, started looking through, and messing around with some of the scenery materials I am planning on using on this....need to try and keep up with Alexandre and Gordon.

[shropshire lad]

I can't see any Woodland Scenics bright green lichen in that little pile , or are they the ones in the centre at the top of the photo ?

[marc_reusser]

Ha! ...yes, two bags of olive and med toned fine ground foam at the top. But only there for veeeeeery limited use...so limited, that nobody will likely ever notice it was used. 

[1-32]

great mark
my eye was drawn to the corner of the building first
kind regards kim

[Mobilgas]

Marc,   You have way to many choice's on scenery materials to choose from

[Mr Potato Head]

I did not understand any of your SBS for your concrete but it came out great! really!
can you please explain in English thanks
Gil

[Ray Dunakin]

Man, that is one ugly sidewalk -- in a good sort of way!

[marc_reusser]

Thanks Kim and Ray.

Craig.....sadly thats only the half of it.....takes a lot to try and keep up with the likes of  Alexandre and Gordon.

Gil.....what part(s)  were not clear....I'm not being sarcastic, there is just so much there to "re-describe" that it helps to know where to start. 

[marc_reusser]

I quick pad snappie update to bore you.

Asphalt patch was done using the Hudson & Allen Studio asphat mix, and given washes of Tamiya Deck Tan XF55.

Manhole at right is a 1/48 scale laser cut product from VectorCut, cast grate atleft is a resin casting from a Diorama Debris mold. Both items were AB'd, a dark rust base mix of Tamiya XF1 Black, XF3 Yellow, and XF10 Brown, when dry, given a wash of L...ifeColor UA748 Brown Green, and while this wash was still damp, a thinned wash mix of AK046 Light Rust and AK013 Rust Streaks was applied. When this was dry, the surfaces were lightly burnished with a finger application of AK086 Dark Steel pigment.

The left grate will be closed in the final scene, but "wet" scenic debris was added in case one sees through the slits. This was done using fine crushed leaves and dirt, then wetted with a random mix/application of AK078 Damp Mud, AK014 Winter Streaking Grime, and Wet Effects.

[Malachi Constant]

Looks, um ... grate!     (Oh, that's so lame)     

Okay ... shaping up damn nice .... and forgot to say thanks for all the SBS run-down on the beat-to-crap sidewalks ... very good info there & much appreciated!  -- Dallas