5x5x7 project (1/35 scale)

[marc_reusser]

Thanks guys!

Paul:
As shown in the poorly lit attached photo, To hide the glue I used that concept of a "splash" type board on both sides (as it was only fastened on the sides). This hides the glue residue, and because the bench seat extends almost to the wall sheathing, it creates kind of a tray/cubby in that area where I plan to place some crew-clutter.

What's wrong with those pants? I wore pants like that all through elemtary school! 



On a neat note and likely of minimal interest in case anyone runs into a sim issue like this, instead of trying to get into the small space with my hand and using a blade, chisel or such to remove the bond between the seat/blocking and the vertical studs, I used an approx 3/16" x3/8" piece of styrene that was smooth on the ends, set it vertically on the seat at one side (so it projectred about an 1" beyond the top of the caboose), close/tight to the wall framing, and with a small hammer hit the top of the styrene firmly and quickly downward in a clean vertical blow...then repeated on the other side. this sheard the wole seat and mounting block assemly clean off the studs in one complete piece, without any damage to the walls or anything else. The whole seat and blocking assembly was then simply glued back in at the correct height.

MR

[finescalerr]

Everything looks just outstanding except one floorboard deep under the bench. It projects about a scale 1/16-inch too high and probably will require scrapping the whole project. Oh, well. Easy come, easy go. -- Russ

[Gordon Ferguson]

Marc,

as with all your builds really neat and clean and a great SBS.

Sure is tempting me to have a go at this strange new fangled stuff called wood instead of the more traditional plastic I usually stick to

Gordon 

[TRAINS1941]

Marc,

Great job!  Coloring is perfect.  And does Marty know your almost done with a project??


What's wrong with those pants? I wore pants like that all through elemtary school!
So that's what's wrong with you!!!

Jerry 

[Gordon Ferguson]

Hi Marc,

I know I have gatecrashed your threads before but this time only doing it to show your hard work producing these SBS is used by us watchers.

2 shots of the floor of my workmans shed "on wheels", followed your techniques plus have been experimenting with some of the MIG powders .... pleased with the colour effect although these shots certainly prove I am no carpenter ( floor size 3" x 2")





The "hole" is for me to fit a concrete hearth for a stove to fit on ... will be practicing with someone else's SBS for the concrete !

Gordon

[Chuck Doan]

Its looking really good, Marc!

[marc_reusser]

EDIT: Sorry, I was too tired yesterday to do the write-up to go with the photos,...so here it is now...better late than never .

The usual 'home rolled" corrugated made from alum. baking pans was not scale appropriate, and I did not feel like making a jig to make my own for this project, so I used some Builders In Scale 'O-scale' (1/48), material I had on hand. The corrugations space out pretty good compared to some of the real world material, however instead of being perfectly smooth waves, the material has a bit more of a kinked/jagged look to it....it is also much thinner than the home rolled.

The material was etched using a Ferric-Chloride solution (Printed Circuit board Etchtant) [yes, I have heard of people using Drano to do this as well....but I did not care to try and wait several days to see if that worked]. Contrary to what Gil assumes, it was done outside, wearing long sleeves, gloves, goggles and a respirator with a 'gas' filter.

All pieces were cut to the reqiured size prior to etching.

Since this is a proces most modelers are familiar with I will skip some of the etching explanation.

I always make sure that I have/etch at least 50% more material than needed. This way you will be sure to have enough useable pieces in the end (if you have extra you can just save them for the next project). The image below shows some of the pit-falls with this method. the piece on the left was left in the solution too long, and this began to disolve completely; the piece in the middle was not left in long enough, and shows some of the un-etched alum surface., the piece on the right also shows some un-etched area, but it also shows spots where air bubbles prevented the etchtant from coming in contact with the surface (when when the piece is in the etching solution you want to tap and turn it with several times, using tweezers, to prevent this).




After rinsing the pieces several times with water, each piece is then "scrubbed" on both sides, in order to obtain that nice warm-grey look of oxidized corrugated metal. The scrubbing is done in a flat enameled artists tray, using an old toothbrush with cut-down bristles. The left side of the piece is unscrubbed, while the right has been scrubbed. Once scrubbed the pieces are again rinsed in some cold water to remove any residue [NOTE: Th scrubbing not only servers to obtain the grey color, but also removes any residual etchtant, which can continue to slowly eat away at the material over time.)




This image shows a piece before and after "scrubbing".




Next step was to add rust to the panesls I wanted to represent the type of rusting often seen where the ridges rust before/more than the valleys.  To do this I used a small piece of fine sponge (the kind used in the cheap/inexpensive "sponge brushes" available at most paint and hardware stores), and MIG "Standard Rust Effects". The rust coloring was dabbed on in several layers (allowing for about 10 mins. dry time between)



Once the Rust Effects was dry, the piece was curved to shape, and given a light dusting of CMK "Dark Dust" pigment across the individual piece, this was then "washed" over using clean "Odoerless Thinner"  (I used the odorless thinner, because it is less aggressive tha regular thinner, and thus does not attack the "rust effects as easily/quickly) [In another application I might consider sealing the "Rust Effects" before doing the pigment wash.)








When all dry, the pieces were glued to the sub-roof using thick ACC.

The bright/Shiny spots on the roof seen in the images is not exposed metal, it is shiney/not fully dried residue from the turpentine......this will not be visible in the finished model.

MR

[Chuck Doan]

I like the homage to the old wordless workshop articles. What did you use to affix the corr.?

[Mr Potato Head]

Were you wearing eye protection? Good boy with the gloves, but it looks like you were inside the house? Boy it's no fair! Jerry gets to bring axels into his living room and you get to paint and use etchant inside the house? And I am the one who lives in B.F.E.
Nice job the color looks great.
Gil

[shropshire lad]

Come on , Marc , speak . I've got a pile of corrugated waiting for the etching treatment and I'd love to know what you used to get the finish on yours .

  Nick

" I love the smell of etchant in the morning . It clears the sinuses a treat ! "

[Gordon Ferguson]

Looks great Marc.

Can add to the questions - noticed a few people using sponges as you showed in your SBS, its something I would like to try but have struggled to get hold of that type of sponge, looks open and wiry, all the stuff I can find seems way too dense ..... any suggestions as where I could get hold what you are using would be appreciated.

Thanks

Gordon

[Franck Tavernier]

Really nice color effect Marc!

What did you use for the corrugated?

Franck

[marc_reusser]

Thanks guys. I went back and addied all the SBS text into the post if interested.


Gordon,
Great coloring and look to the wood. Can you tell me a bit more about the colors you used, and your application method.
I really think you should start posting SBS threads on your projects here in the forum. Starting with the crane.....


Marc

[Gordon Ferguson]

Mark, thanks for info .... " sponge brushes",  talk about obvious I really am getting stupidier as I get older.


Thanks for the positive comment on the wood colour, photos can lie ... don't look so brown in real life which is not surprising when you consider the colours I used  Vallejo German trk blk (333), German highlight Fieldgrau (338) and Hull red (146) ...... your technique applied on wet wood then well watered down colour and mixed wet on wet. Afraid the very technical part was rubbing in the colour with my fingers! Final finishing with rubbed in MIG Ind city dirt pigment and light dusting of MIG black smoke pigment after nail holes were punched .... here are a couple of very rough shots in natural daylight





(concrete hearth based on Chuck's recent SBS)

SBS, well your right I should be trying to put something back into this forum after the amount I have got out of it but you have seen most of the crane photos and the quality is not there ...... been trying to improve my photo set up and it is getting better, lighting is still not right yet! ..... may start with the "road roller"


Gordon

[Ray Dunakin]

Marc, the rust coloring on your corrugated metal looks great. I'll have to give that method a try. How did you manage to curve the corrugated sheets, without it kinking?