Can anyone guess what it is?
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I cant be just laying bricks, so i started on the next machine.
Those paying attention can likely guess, and it is based on a CHB kit.
-Marty
Looks like a serum injector, used by Dr. McCoy, in the original Star Trek series.
Did I guess correctly!?
M
Big Ass Band Saw? :o :o :o ??? ??? ???
MPH
Horizontal milling machine?
What is the blue material?
Paul
I have no idea but I like the color???? ???
Jerry
Hello Marty,
how each model of you certainly great.
I'm looking forward to the continuation of you.
Universal milling machine.
Good Job! Paul & Chuck!
A Brown & Sharpe #3 Universal Milling machine.
I have not found too many images on the 'net or any very useful information.
The main/blue part is some sort of acrylic Mr. potato Head sent me.
-Marty
Marty,
I have a book that might be useful, let me take a look and see whats in there, I can post some scans.
Paul
OK I checked my book and its not as good as I thought for pics, lots of text about dividing and such.
Try this link, scroll down to the B&S stuff, lots of other info too.
http://pounceatron.dreamhosters.com/docs/index.html
You've got a bunch of work to do before Marc's guess stops looking like the right answer! ;D
Looking forward to more miniature machinery madness! -- Dallas
Dammit Jim, I'm only a Doctor!
I'm still working on my serum injector...er...um...Milling machine!
Paul
That link is excellent! Thank you!
I have a question; May be you or Russ (NEBrownstone) can answer?
On the back of the machine there is a guard,
runs from the driven pulley shaft to an idler then to the gearbox or "variable feed mechanism"
In Charlies 1:48 model he calls it a "chain guard"
It looks more like a belt cover than chain.
And a chain seems very unlikely to me.
Any thoughts or knowledge?
Thanks!
-Marty
Hi Marty,
Do you have a picture by chance?
From what you are describing it IS a chain guard. My old mill had a "silent chain" kind of like the old timing chains on engines that was hidden under a cast iron guard. It transfers power from the spindle shaft to the gearbox that drives the table. There is a shaft that connects the gearbox to the table through a couple of universal joints. All of this had to be "timed" when using a universal power dividing head when milling spirals (twist drills and spiral mills) so that the path would remain the same, with only the tool depth being changed for another attack on the material. You could change the speed of the table and the dividing head gearing to produce helix paths of varying degrees depending upon the requirements. Simple indexing didn't require this timing and most of the time the gearbox was simply for table feed speed.
Some of the earlier mills used small belts to power the feed, but that went out of favor since belts have a tendency to slip.
Hope that answered your question.
QuoteHope that answered your question.
PERFECTLY!
Thanks!
Now how to model that "silent chain"...............
-Mj
Put cover over it and pretend it is in there.
Good idea Chuck but I will know!
FWIW;
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Marty
Coming along nice Marty. If I missed it I'm sorry but do you have in mind what kind of shop this is? I mean is it attached to a RR shop, or just general machine shop? Only reason I ask is if it were a general shop you should make all the cool dividing accessories and other stuff! A RR shop would likely not have had such stuff.
Paul
Young Martin, are you turning the aluminum pieces yourself? -- Russ
Paul
I was planning a RR shop and now that you mention the tooling
Definitely! But I would like to do some of it.
Still need a steady rest on the lathe.
Russ
Yes, making everything so far.
That was kind of the focus doing these machines and in 1/16
Trying to stay challenged.
Thanks!
Mj
As you know, I really like the way you work with metal. Those turnings are gorgeous and the whole model looks good so far. -- Russ
Trying to stay challenged I'll say.
You are just so dam good at this. Maybe you should be a teacher or something!!!! ;D
Jerry
Thanks guys.
I have always enjoyed using a lathe, wood or metal.
In the link Paul posted I found a neat
"drip pot" I thought it would be a cool detail.
So far;
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Marty,
That thing looks great, I recognized it right away! Where did you get that little valve? Or did you make it!
Paul
Thanks Paul!
Parts list;
Pot
Grandt line wing nut
Grandt line O scale stove pipe cap
End of uniball vision ink pen
Precision scale O scale 1 1/2" valve
.025" wire
Bracket
1/16 tube & 1/16 x .014" brass
CHB donkey sled plate
The arm pivots like it should too.
Now that is awesome!!!!!!
Jerry
Overarm to spindle support;
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Had to do it in brass, just could not find suitable material in styrene.
-Marty
Quotejust could not find suitable material in styrene.
I'm Shocked!! Ya mean you couldn't find some evergreen flat stock that you could laminate and then bore out. Your slipping Sir.....
Very nice Marty.
Michael
Never thought I'd say this, but ... WOW! That drip pot is a beauty! ;) -- Dallas
Quote from: lab-dad on January 20, 2013, 04:46:32 PM
Had to do it in brass, just could not find suitable material in styrene.
Hello Marty,
where is the problem, I love brass as you also can see in my work.
In the metal parts like me even better.
Some progress
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2FBCCFA914-6CA4-40E4-B260-75FE8F6A5A0B-14723-000001A333DCCF97.jpg&hash=172cdb22d1c44822b6b328116dd35346054569f4)
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Just cant seem to get styrene to take a curve and not break
when i use MEK to "glue" it.
Hence the brass belt guard.
-Marty
Could you replace it with a metal part? After all, you are rather skilled in that department. -- Russ
Russ,
That's why the chain guard on the back is brass and not plastic.
In all honesty the brass turned out way better anyway.
Working on the knee and then the table.
Mj
Marty this is all just a ploy to wean yourself off of styrene, first a bracket, then a cover guard , pulleys, shafts ;D Before long you will be making the whole thing out of metal and have them working and cutting materials.
Michael
Thanks Michael.
The styrene is sometimes easier, sometimes not so much...
BRASS? Like this?
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This is the engine for the machine shop..........
Show-Off ;D
Marty that is beautiful, when did you make it? the ribs on the flywheel look like they came from the centre of a brass Boston gear.
Michael
Marty's mom made it. And she helps him with all his stuff even when he swears he does them himself. I know because my mom builds all my models, too. -- ssuR
Darn Russ!
You were not supposed to tell about our moms!
Now everyone will know yours does the magazine too!
Michael, (you've seen it - you commented on it!)
The large flywheel is a casting I found on *bay
I started the Corliss in May of '09
Finished it about Jan of '10
I wanted to paint it but still cant bring myself to completely disassemble it paint it and put it back together!
Someday though....someday.
The thread is here;
http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=398.0 (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=398.0)
Mj
Marty thanks for the reminder, crikey that was 2 years ago, you can't expect me to remember everything :-[
Michael
No Michael,
I dont expect any one to remember!
Too many distractions in this group.
Alas, poor Yorick! I knew him,
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Hopefully this gives a sense of scale, and pleases Sir Nick that I am
quoting Shakespeare.
Here is an overall shot as of yesterday.
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The knee goes up & down.
Table goes right, left, in & out and rotates.
The cutter is not staying. Hoping to find something more better.....
Working on the handles next.
Marty
That is looking nice! Maybe a brake pawl could be turned into a cutter?
Quote from: lab-dad on January 29, 2013, 05:03:43 AM
Darn Russ!
You were not supposed to tell about our moms!
Now everyone will know yours does the magazine too!
Mj
Well ,that explains why they are so good . I did wonder .
Ahh! - I'm beginning to see it now. You really are very good at this aren't you.
A smattering of applause from me.
Satisfactory. And you seem to have solved your earlier problems. -- Russ
QuoteSatisfactory. And you seem to have solved your earlier problems. -- Russ
Not Marty himself.......His mum did.
very nice. Did you come across unknown items / parts scaling up from 1:48 ?
Jacq
Thanks guys! I'll tell mom.
Chuck, that might work, may not be thick enough though....?...
I need to find someone who can cut thick(er) material with a laser like Vectorcut who is also as easy to work with as Dave.
Quotevery nice. Did you come across unknown items / parts scaling up from 1:48 ?
Jacq
Not really.
Charlie was an incredible modeler. All the motion on the knee is present in the 1:48 model, just amazing.
I did have some trouble with the stops on the front of the table.
Hard to see in 1:48 and no real good pictures on the 'net.
SandiaPaul came to my rescue with some google book finds.
Those really are a great resource and can not thank him enough for finding them for me.
-Marty
Hello Marty,
I've already said that is definitely a great model.
I think I was right.
You still need for a router for your model of what diameter should I have?
Maybe could fit Dremel 546 (http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=546).
-MJ
Can't say much else. Everyone seems to have covered your work pretty dam good.
Jerry
Hi Marty,
Lookin good.
As for a milling cutter, I don't think the dremel one will look good...it will immed be identified as a dremel cutter, the teeth are too deep and large.
I really like Chuck's idea of a brake wheel pawl, that actually has the right look. Maybe Ozark or Hartford has something. Plus it will be white metal and you could polish the teeth to appear to be bright like a real cutter would be.
Paul
Or maybe you could just make one!! Hell you made everything else what's one more part!!! ;D
Jerry
Knee update
Levers handles, knobs and clutch gearbox.
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Trigger finger surgery tomorrow (3rd one) so I will be
left handed for a while- not that you could tell!
Marty
WOW-o-WOW! Very best wishes on the trigger finger! -- Dallas
Finger surgery doesn't sound like much fun! Hope it all goes well and you can quickly get back to making cool models.
I hope you won't need any more surgery of any kind for the rest of your life. The model looks decent, by the way. -- Russ
Been there done that (8 trigger fingers, 2 carpal tunnel surgeries). Good luck with it, Marty.
-Younger
Get well soon - have some time out and join us in the armchair of thoughts or even join the "gunner society " ( I'm gunner build one of those one day) looking forward to your next project for your workshop superb modelling and fantastic detailing
Barney
Thanks guys. Healing well.
Finally getting a "handle" on things
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Not bad for a temporary lefty!
Marty
Is there any beer in there???? Nice handle for a "Lefty" :D
Jerry
Well the "construction" is all done, I think.
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Some "obvious" bits & pieces missing but they go on after paint.
I could not put the shaft from the gearbox to the knee on due to the spring inside pushing the gearbox off it's mount.
I wanted the shaft to extend & retract like the real one when i move the knee up & down ;)
I hope i didnt miss anything!
I took it completely apart after the pictures to prep for the paint work.
Next time you see it it wont be so funny looking! (I hope!!!)
This was the most complicated machine I have done so far!
-Marty
Oh :o
Love to see what's behind that door ??? ::) ::)
LOL
MPH
Hi Marty,
I really enjoy your way of modeling with its combination of different materials. And I even more like the way you paint your items - I'm really tense how this will come out. There's one technical part I don't understand: What is the visible thread for (the aluminium one above the footplate)? It has another thread inside that seems to be used to higher or lower the table.
Great work!
Volker
Wow!!! That is beautiful, Marty. I love your use of multiple materials.
Bill Martinsen
Adequate. -- Russ
Martin............. I'm sorry bloke, but every day I log on here and I'm faced with examples of such elevated quality ...........
Seriously ........... I'm running out of superlatives!!!!
So in order to simplify things let me say that the tube and pipe for the cutting oil [pigeons milk as we used to call it] is a rare example of understated excellence ................ "I know" - but sometimes the humblest of thing
Great Marty!
What did you use for the cutter, it looks good.
One idea and then a story about what kind of job you could have in it.
Castle nuts.
When I was 16 or 17 I worked in this great old shop, the guy was a collector of old machinery just like this one, plus old gas engines, a steam tractor and shovel, etc...
So I was slotting castle nuts on a horizontal mill. It was in a fixture that held maybe 20 nuts or so. You would take a pass and then loosen a nut on the fixture then turn the nuts for the next slot.
Well, the cutter, which was about 6" in diam and maybe3/16" thick, jammed and broke into a bunch of pieces. One piece flew across the shop and just tweaked the kid(who was even younger than me) in his hat brim. Everyone always picked on this kid and he thought I threw something at him.
I told him he didn't even want to know what almost happened to him!
Paul
Very, very cool Marty.
You inspired me to pull out some of my old catalogs. Found this in a 1941 one from B&S.
I'm amazed at what we used to know how to do...
Thanks guys!
Volker
The threaded part you ask about was used to (manually) raise & lower the "table" (actually called the "knee".
MPH
"Denise, lets see whats behind door number one.......a 12 pack of beer, a bottle of rum and a train porn magazine!
Paul
Funny story! I was gonna post a picture of a figure without his head next to the machine but it is already in 126 pieces.
There are two things missing though and i am surprised no one caught me on them.
Last night while going over the pieces in preparation of paint i realized I had not attached the wall around the base that forms a sort of well (I guess for spilled coolant)
And also the bosses for the bolts that secure it to the floor.
More things to add! :-[
-Marty
Really a lovely piece. Beautiful detail bits and fabrication. Look forward to what you do with the painting.
This is just amazing stuff such attention to detail - how is the workshop building coming on
Barney
Thanks Marc, glad your still checking on me! ;)
Barney, also thanks.
The building has been paused waiting on windows.
They arrived last week, now waiting on the glass.
Microscope glass ordered also.
Still trying to decide on flooring but updated pictures soon!
Thanks for asking.
-Marty
The workshop will be no doubt amazing to behold.
Quote from: lab-dad on February 27, 2013, 01:09:14 PM
Thanks Marc, glad your still checking on me! ;)
-Marty
Heck, I'm just hanging around waiting for you to do a Shay at this scale. :)
who squealed?
What? Really? Funny.....I was just making a comment based on your interests, new modeling scale, and reaction to that big foam Shay, by what's his name (wanting to say Revelia....but I know its not)
I have this old Brown & Sharpe mill in my shop. Bears a brass tag from the Bureau of Naval Ordnance from 1943. Came from a university lab where it wasn't used much, so it's still accurate and tight. Thanks to the mass of the machine, and the 5 hp motor, it can hog a lot of metal per cut. There's only one motor that simultaneously drives the spindle, the x-axis, and either the y- or z-axis. It's strictly manual, so the types of work are limited.
Mark
Marc
Well you get the prize for paying attention!
It is still early but something I want to do!
Mark
THANKS!
Thats a great picture!
Especially since I am in the painting phase!
More soon!
-Marty
Marc you where right it is Dave Revelia.
MJ can't wait to see the plans and the first metal shaving's on the floor.
Jerry
Marty -
If you'd like some detail photos of the painted and machined surfaces, oil seepage, and signs/labels, I'd be happy to take the camera to the shop tomorrow.
As you can see in the photo, last time I used the machine, I retracted the support bars, stowed the spindle support bearings in the rear, and was using a regular end mill - a 2" diameter roughing mill to thickness stock for a power hammer forging tool.
Mark
Why YES, Mark.
That would be great!
Thanks!
-Marty
Marty -
I took some photos of my old Brown & Sharpe No 2B Plain standard-type horizontal mill. Forgot to take my tripod along, so these are all hand-held, and may not be a tack-sharp as I'd like. Lighting in the shop is high-intensity florescent, which yields a green cast - I tried to correct the color.
I'll start on the left side:
1. Overall view
2. Detail of an access door casting and cast-on lettering
Mark
Continuing on the left side...
1. Detail of the table drive shafts - the lower moves the table at the selected feed speed, the upper is for fast traverse
2. Detail of paint - note the chipping and crazing
Mark
Continuing on the left side...
1. Detail of the cast-on Brown & Sharpe lettering
Mark
Now around to the knee...
1. General view of the knee from the front. Lots of levers and cranks:
Large crank wheel manually moves the table front-to-back
Large crank with the tennis ball (to protect my shins!) manually raises the table up and down
Strange black crank left of the ways dials in the feed speed
The lever above the ways engages the table feel to move left-to-right
Black lever to the right of the ways engages the fast traverse for which ever axes are actively being driven
The two levers to the right and below the ways engage the vertical and front-to-back drive (one or the other)
2. View of the right side of knee (where a machinist would stand when watching an end mill that can't be seen from the front) - the levers duplicate the x, y, and z drive engagement levers on the front
Mark
Looking at the table...
1. Top view showing t-slots for clamping, and screens that keep chips from being drained off with the coolant. Sorry about the chips - didn't clean up after myself last time!
2. Detail of the coolant drain with no hose attached.
Mark
Now for the back side...
1. Cast iron drive chain cover and drip oiler. The chain is like like 8 bicycle chains in parallel.
Mark
Around to the right side, where the spindle speed and feed speed controls and indicators are located...
1. General view. Lots of cranks and levers...
The lever to the right of the speed placard controls the rotation direction of the spindle
The crank to the left and below the speed placard controls the spindle speed. The little lever below it engages the back gear to provide a slower speed range
The lower crank adjusts table feed speed. Notice that the crank we saw on the front of the knee is linked via shafts and universal joints to allow speed control from the front of the machine
The T-handle at the top will extend and retract the massive steel bars that hold the outboard spindle support
2. Label detail
Mark
More right side details...
1. The etched speed placard showing all the available spindle speeds
2. The etched warning label for the electrician - get the phases wire up right! (Sorry, this one isn't a sharp photo)
Mark
More right side details...
1. Detail of the spindle speed control. The speed is viewed in the little round glass window.
2. Detail of the machine name plate
Mark
And now for spindle...
1. A view of the spindle with an arbor mounted (no cutters attached)
2. A close-up of the end of the spindle where the 50-taper arbor attaches
Mark
And last, but not least, one of the outboard spindle supports. There are two of these, one with a large bearing that matches a sleeve on the arbor to support long arbors in the middle, and one with a smaller bearing to fit the end of the spindle. With the short arbor mounted, I only have the support with the smaller bearing in place.
Overall comment on color. As you can see, I wasn't following a rigorous workflow, so the color varies. I'd say the best color match is the photo of the front of the knee.
Mark
Mark,
the pictures are very much appreciated!
Ill definitely be revering to them as I process.
I'm glad I didn't do such a modern machine-even more levers!!!
thank you
Marty
Nice detail pics Mark!
Well it's done!
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And a size reference (thats the good hand)
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Special thanks to Paul, Russ NeBrownstone and Mark for their assistance, guidance and pictures!
And to Mr. Potato head for the large chunk of ABS that yielded the cabinet! that really got me started!
-Marty
Jeez, they are getting better and better!
Strike a light! ...... if you came to those images cold you'd think they were your reference not the subject matter.
Bloody brilliant..
Marty -
WOW! You got it right. Your paint work really brought it to life.
One minor nit - if this machine is going into a working machine shop, suggest some lube on the ways. That's one place a working machine wouldn't be allowed to rust, as it will affect machine accuracy. Mine has a coating of grease.
Mark
Spot on!
It looks great, down to the flash rust on the ways.
Marty, This is over the top ;D
Just wonderful .. wonderful work. When I was working as a machinist that machine (ok .. it's son) was mostly used to cut gears. Now .. if you could make another .. and a real itty-bitty milling machine you could make a killing on cutting little gears! :)
Wonderful work Marty, your paint finishes on these pieces really do look spot on.
Would look great seen thro a certain 1/16 scale window :D
Most satisfactory. -- Russ
Thanks guys!
Glad you enjoyed the model.
I have some (minor) errors to correct I see and then I will post updated pic or two.
No big deal to add some more grease!
Also going to change the material used for the support arm.
More soon.
-Marty
Marty,
Wow that looks really, really good! I will take the contrarian point about the rust on the ways here, as soon as I saw it I thought "wow he even got that right!"
Yes ways are and should be lubed, but one often sees this, esp. at just where you put it. If the table is not used much and the Y axis ways are uncovered light rust can and often does form on them. Sometimes this rust is just a light film that will wipe right off. Anyway the whole thing looks great!
(I might add more chips in the base ;)
What's next?
Paul
After the comments I have made some improvements.
The top bar always bothered me.
Finally i had a "duh" moment; use steel for the steel, duh.....
Also had the shop apprentice lube up the knee screw and wipe down the table (I hope the sheen shows up to you)
I will call this one done. I dont want to go too far and screw it up.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2FAfinishedLF_zps975c0bdc.jpg&hash=accfe18ecc9ec325bd71f315b10943b09b1be91e)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi263.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii121%2Flab-dad-jones%2FAfinishedRF_zpsc2045f54.jpg&hash=859c269175ec2eea185dde09c90429c000ce704e)
The shop needs to have some progress now that I have my window frames. So that takes priority.
And it still needs a grinder, a drill bit sharpener, another lathe or two, some benches, a heater......
And the other big project I have in mind.
Thanks!
-Marty
It takes your breath away - stunning workmanship
Barney
Hello Marty,
simply unsurpassable.
If I had not followed the report with the birth, I could not believe it.
Now a workpiece in a vise on the machine table and it's just perfect.
From "superb" to "superber". -- Russ
Nice (er)!
Brilliant craftmanship
Awesome! The steel rod is definitely an improvement.
What are you using to simulate the lubricant?
Simply Beautiful. (The "improvements" did make a difference; good catch).
Stunning work.
@Marty
Just a great job! I always like to follow your fantastic work!
Not only the color finish is convinced!
Yesterday I showed my colleagues the picture of the finished machine.
His first words: "Great machine, which weighs 1 ton ... surely!"
He was amazed as he saw the hand in the picture below.
I was really impressed with version 1, but the improvements really take it to a whole new level.
You've got a great eye for making things look just right.
This is spot on, Marty. Great work! I'm always amazed how you turn your models into 'living' things.
Volker
Thank you all for the kind words.
But it is yourselves you should actually be thanking.
No way i could get away with a half-ass attempt here!
Even though the first finished was good, your nudges made me kick it up a notch.
The main reason I got into the modeling I do was to build it all myself (as much as possible).
The rewards have been great.
Again, Thank you for your honesty, I am humbled.
Marty
Marty, Hurry-up and get going on your next machine ;)
Marty,
I have followed along as you have built the machinery for your shop and they have all been great builds.
This one however, this one is exceptional!
Thank you for sharing this.
Rick
Marty, what did you use to create the oily sheen on the table? It looks exactly like oil.
Well it looks like oil because it us!
-Marty
Marty, aren't you afraid that the oil will damage the PS or will attract dust and scatter all over the model later on?
Volker
Volker has a excellent point! I'd assumed the oil was gloss varnish with some black tint added.
Using real oil takes realism to a new level so you can experience the same problem I do in my mixed-use shop - despite a good dust collection system, stray sawdust or airborne grinding dust has a way of settling onto oiled ways making a mess!
Mark
I never really thought about it.
I'm not worried.
If when it gets dirty I will wipe it off and re-apply.
If the table melts, I'll make a new one and use something different.
-Marty
Wonder if Armor-all would work?
Lip gloss came to mind last evening while..........nevermind
That´s a fabtastic piece of machinery Marty.....simply stunning!
Here is a great product for fresh oil: AK Interactive 084 Fresh Oil. The fresh oil can be seen in the attached shot taken during construction of my bike shop. The work table has a few stains but it can be better viewed in the little can on the floor and also on the funnel next to it. They are dry to the touch in the picture. AK 082 also works great for used oil.
http://www.ak-interactive.com/ecomm/index.php?acc=Catalog&idc=3&IDCat=593&p=3
Anders
Pic. (http://)(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj344%2Ffiffistorp%2Fwestlake%25202013%2F12-02-07_184920_MB_R8_S4_02.jpg&hash=007470a5195a2f3ce4b344bd06da97c2701805a4)
He lives! Awakened from his long winter slumber, Anders emerges and share some thoughts with the modeling community .... -- ssuR
HI Anders!
Thanks for the compliment!
I have the used oil, did not know they had a new oil.
I used to use artists oil, gloss medium or, high gloss clear.
Thought of the oil and figured I'd give it a test.
Will get some "new oil" with the next order. Thanks.
-Marty
Marty
The accolades are more than well deserved, when I saw the finished photos I thought that it was a reference picture then the hand and then up-scaled the finish another notch. My the talent on this forum is second to none.
My head is bowed in reverence.
Michael