Westlake Publishing Forums

I thought I would try starting a thread which everyone could contribute to as they wished, of stuff they have been buying for building and painting their models.

I don't mean for this to be an endorsement or advertisement of any product, manufacturer or supplier...nor to show of how much something costs or doesn't.......but merely a point of interest thread, for us to see what we use and buy for our modeling, and thus maybe helping others or giving them ideas of/for things they may want to try, or have not heard of, thought of, or seen......or may be unsure of where to get, quality, use, etc...........and have questions, or comments about.

Maybe it will answer some questions and encourage some to try new things, or help someone find that item they were looking for....and maybe also help in keeping someone from making a mistake or wasting their money by buying something.

I received two packages of supplies yesterday that I had been waiting for.

The first was an order I placed wit Great Models:  www.greatmodels.com

The Milliput ($14.35)  was purchased to make some weld seams and do some more sculpting on figures. Since I did not have any real sculpting tools I ordered a 4-piece set ($15.32) they had that is made by Squadron. The tools are pretty nice quality for the price, they will take a bit of refining/personalization, but I look like a good starter set. They have a nice heft.

The second set of items in the order were some CMK pigments ($4.30 ea). I got these because I wanted to see what the colors and quality was like (plus I really like having a wide choice in my pigment colors that I have on hand). They seem to be of pretty good quality density. I like the colors/shade of the "Light Dust" and "Dark Dust"...this will be come in handy for numerous effects. The "Dirty White" is nice, but will obviosly have limited applications. The two rust colors are REALLY dark....though definitely useable to represent areas of really old dark rust (which I often need), I don't seem them having much use beyond that (They could probably also be used as part of a dark mud or wet soil mix.)

Lastly, were some items from ABER: Different diameters of copper wire (.2mm -.5mm) that can be used for wiring, cablie and "plumbing" lines. (it was just easier/quicker for me to get the sizes in one batch than trying to hunt them down by stripping various wires around the house) Also shown are two sets of 1/35 PE parts for "workable hinges" these contain different styles and sizes. The hinges barrels need to be formed around a wire, that then functions as the hinge pin. Though best for 1/35 and up...some might be usable for 1/48. They are fidely to work with and take a bit of practice/getting used to, but add a nice detail to any dor window, or other item that has a hinge. Also shown is a package of 1/35 "Bucles and straps....these will be used for misc detailing on 1/35 figures, boxes, stowage, etc.


Marc

The Aber parts.

The second package that arrived was from MIG Productions USA:  http://migproductions-usa.com (http://migproductions-usa.com)

The first image shows:

Blue Filter ($7.00)...in the past I have used artist oils for this purpose, but I though I would give this a try on my current TACO project.

502 Abteilung Odorless Turpentine ($8.50). I have used the Grumbacher odorless thinner in the past..and still do for some things, but found this one to work better in disolving the oils (esp. when paired with the 502 oils) for washes and filters...it also seems to dry better on the surface and not leave (or as often) the drying rings that the Grumbacher can.

MIG Thinner for Washes ($8.75)...pretty much use this for any of my oil paint and wash thinning...same positive comments for this as for the odorless thinner above.

MIG Wet Effects & Damp Earth ($8.95)...this will be my first try at using this...so I amcurious to see how it works.

502 Abteilung Oils ($6.00 ea): IMO these are some really nice oils, the pigment is very fine and disolves wonderfully with the MIG or 502 thinner. I have used and still do use, Grumbacher, Windsor Newton & Rembrandt artists oils, but these seem to be of a finer grind for better dillution, finer detailing and better blending...they also seem to dry more "matt" than the typical artists oils. The colors I odereed this time were (L to R): #035 Buff [I use this for fading, rain streaks, filter, wash, etc.], #130 Mud [for washes, stains, and coloring of dirt and grime], #160 Engine Grease [speaks for itself], #080 Wash Brown [for washes, stains, and coloring of dirt and grime], #070 Dark Rust [ for pin washes, rust spots, and rust streaking].


The second image shows some MIG Pigments ($5.75 ea) I wanted to try/see: (the left side of each spot is plain pigment put down with a brush, the right side shows the color when it is wetted and held down with thinner.)

The consistance and quality of the pigment is great, and they will work beautifully for the purpuse their name implies (as well as others). The only one that was a bit "interesting" to me was the "Lunar Dust"...it looks like a simple grey pigment when just plopping it down on the cardstock, but when worked, it begins to take on a greenish hue, and when the thinner is added, this really becomes pronounced....I will definitely do some test pieces before putting it on a model...but I can see some applications for it.


Marc

I'm going to get a sheet of these little 3d rivets to experiment with for my next project.  They are raised rivets printed on decal film.   

http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html


Marc, do you have a special preference for Milliput?  I haven't used that stuff in years, since I discovered Aves. 

http://www.avesstudio.com/

Pretty much the same thing, but cheaper and comes in more varieties and consistencies.  Good little company to do business with, they promptly answer email questions and can help you choose the right putty for your application.   I personally found Milliput was too too hard and brittle when it cured. 

Dave

General lubricant for the soul...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Froughboy.net%2Fimgs%2FJD.jpg&hash=ec945dcd7b6f52d9757306b523cba522f47688bb)

Sorry Marc... couldn't resist  ;)

Paul — [on the way back to the corner, glass in hand...]

Oooh...I stopped by the local liquor agent this evening to pick up some supplies. I ought to be right well "inspired" in a about an hour or so.

Tom

Quote from: DaKra on February 26, 2010, 06:34:07 PM
I'm going to get a sheet of these little 3d rivets to experiment with for my next project.  They are raised rivets printed on decal film.   

http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html


Marc, do you have a special preference for Milliput?  I haven't used that stuff in years, since I discovered Aves. 

http://www.avesstudio.com/

Pretty much the same thing, but cheaper and comes in more varieties and consistencies.  Good little company to do business with, they promptly answer email questions and can help you choose the right putty for your application.   I personally found Milliput was too too hard and brittle when it cured. 

Dave

Dave I recently got asked about the archer rivets, and gave this reply:

"I have used them, but do not use them......I found that they were a bit too much of a PIA.
Once the strips were cut from the sheet, and softened in the decal solution the strip of rivets started to break in certain areas along the length....they were also a bit of a pain to keep in a perfectly straight line once on the surface...esp. once it started to set.

I feel the rivets are too small for most "general" rivets in 1/35...meaning the type that we are most accustomed to modeling on boilers, cabs, etc....but they do work well for small riveted things we don't always think about detailing, like sheet metal covers on machines, hinge strips on tool boxes, piano hinges, or any type of fabricated sheet metal enclosure type thing.

Bottom line....I would not recommend them (but I do like their Casting Mark decals).....go buy yourself the Waldron "Micro" punch and die set.....it is really sweet...and I have easily recouped the $100 that it cost with the amount of rivets I have made, and the level of additional detailing I have been able to achieve/add."

If/when you do start using them I would be interested in your impression of them.


I cant speak to the Milliput......this will be my first go around with it. I needed it mainly for making weld seams (I needed a different type of seam, and thicker, than can be realisticlly represented with streched sprue of softened styrene.), and I figured since I was also doing some figure work I might as well give it a try and learn something new.  I have never tried the Aves....but it looks interesting and like something I will have to try incomparison.


Marc

Paul...can we at least up the quality a bit? ;)


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.winesnliquors.com%2Fimages%2Fdetailed%2FGLENFIDDICH%252030%2520Year%2520Old%2520750%2520ml.jpg&hash=e5bb8b14b6ec0efbdb00f5f746f71c77fa53d6b4)



.....or change to this?...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthehouseofglunz.com%2Fimages%2Fproducts%2Fdisplay%2Fpechuga.jpg&hash=26d67baf9aad76e7a9284e583bd2ea1d351371e3)




I used to have a bottle of the lower at my bench....but ran out. :'( :'(


Marc ;D

Here's where my money went this week:

Plumbing trouble: $1200
Car trouble: $2700
Wife's trip to the doctor: (Haven't got the bill yet).

Sigh.

When it rains, it pours.

I did manage to buy some styrene, though.

Ouch!...sorry to hear that. I know those kinds of weeks or months...they can be a real downer.

Hope everything is now fixed, and your wife is doing well.


Marc

After the wonderful goodies Marc bought, my little $5.00 watercolor kit seems ... well ... banal. But it may serve its purpose on wood or paper.

Now for the important stuff. Gentlemen, single malt Scotch and Jack Daniels are fine drinks but an excellent cognac beats anything, hands down. Such liquid ambrosia is the nectar of my downfall.

Russ

Useful post Marc,


Those Aber hinges look interesting and worth getting hold of.

The MIG pigments are good, if you haven't got it yet would recommend you try their Industrial City Dirt, P039.

Not purchased yet but have left a few hints around the place just in case my wife doesn't know what to buy me for an anniversary present ... you know the subtle way  leaving the suppliers web site open on the computer, purchasing a book "Learning how to use Your Mini Lathe" and  may try using this photo as the screen saver 

Paul, I'm with you on the choice of lubricant, country boy at heart I guess. You could be a redneck if ..........you like Jack Daniels??

Marc, I was looking at the sample dots you put out of the rust colors and have to say those look like they are really dark, was it just the lighting or are they really that color? Also I wonder why would the odorless turp be so different between manufacturers? Pat

Hi Marc

By "decal solution" do you mean a softening agent like solvaset or microsol?   Might have contributed to the breaking up problem?   

Although advertised as "resin" I suspect the rivet decals are printed by the same thermograph process as those fancy invitation and business cards, with the raised glossy lettering.    If anybody knows more, I'd appreciate the info. 

Try Aves and see how it works for you.  I get outstanding results with it, sticks well and sands out to a beautiful feather edge.  I almost never use autobody filler anymore, only for pin scratches and hairline gaps.     

Dave

PS as for drinks-- Wintertime, I usually keep a mug of tea warm on a hotplate on the workbench.  Picked up the tea habit while working in the UK.  Helps to keep the hands warm as the basement workshop hovers in the 50s from December to March.   

   

Quote from: marc_reusser on February 26, 2010, 11:14:07 PM
Paul...can we at least up the quality a bit? ;)
Marc ;D

Marc - your allowance is obviously much greater than mine... ;) However, as a long-standing member (inducted in 1976) of the Academy of Malt Scotch Whisky, I have had the pleasure of consuming a great variety of single malts over the years and I have not yet met one of which I did not approve. Regrettably tho for the past couple of years, the forced reduction and near-elimination of my allowance have prohibited me from indulging my passion for single malts. This prohibition is eased somewhat by the mundane selection available in our back-water of civilization and the regular medicinal soothing of JD...

Paul

Quote from: finescalerr on February 27, 2010, 01:41:56 AM
Now for the important stuff. Gentlemen, single malt Scotch and Jack Daniels are fine drinks but an excellent cognac beats anything, hands down. Such liquid ambrosia is the nectar of my downfall.
Russ

Also an excellent choice, though I understand too much of it leads to fantasies about young thong-clad women... ;)

Paul

Though not a recent purchase, these Alvin 450 Proportional Dividers have been of tremendous use to me over the years. A precision tool made of machined-aluminum with replaceable steel points, they're designed for scaling dimensions up or down from technical drawings and dividing lines and circles into equal parts. The version I have is 8" long point-to-point. They are still being produced in a couple of different sizes and though relatively expensive, have paid for themselves many times over. You can find them online or at any good art supply store.

I'm currently using them on the 1:24 Heywood Brake Van project. The prints I have of the technical drawings for the van, though drawn to 1:32 scale, did not print out at that scale. By taking dimensions off the drawings using the long-pointed end of the dividers, I can read the correction dimensions off the 1/2" scale on an architect's rule with the short-pointed end of the dividers. It was simply a matter of finding the right position for the divider's adjustable pivot point.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Froughboy.net%2Fimgs%2FPropDividers2.jpg&hash=c5b9edeaff2f01dfdbb9b340079f86a79537e35f)

Paul

Have a pair of those also, very useful tool.   But sometimes the pivot shifts with use, and the proportions go off a little.  So if I am working from plans in a different scale, I usually scan, rescale in photoshop or adobe, print and use the tool for taking 1/1 reference points.   Compass works for 1/1 reference points, too.  Slower to adjust but holds the setting reliably.             

That's curious, I've never had that problem Dave. They've always remained fixed where I've set them. I've found greater inaccuracies generated in the printing process. I can print the same drawing file on three different printers and get 3 slightly different sized drawings. We also have to remember that paper, like wood, is a flexible medium and is constantly changing. These dividers do an excellent job of resolving the inaccuracies.

Paul

Its easy to check for printer output precision-- draw a ruler file in Adobe, just little tic marks at 1mm increments along an X and Y axis.  Print it out and line it up with a steel rule.   I see no distortion in my printer's output, maybe .002" along an 10" span, more than precise enough for model work.   

I'd figure its much less precise to take many measurements by hand, rescale each measurement individually with a mechanical divider, and transfer them to the workpiece.    But still within tolerances for model work, can't go splitting hairs too finely or nothing would get finished!   :)

Rescaling using a copy machine is a whole different matter.

Dave

Good tip on checking accuracy of a printer Dave.

I agree, too much opportunity to introduce inaccuracies by multiple mechanical transfers of dimensions. That's why I only do it once, from the original drawing in a different scale to an architect's rule in the scale that I'm modelling. The time-saving feature of the dividers is there is no math involved for those of us who are mathematically challenged. The resulting dimension is then transferred into the CAD software which outputs the dimensions needed for the finished part to within .0001". Accurate enough for our needs I'd say...  ;)

Paul

Quote from: gfadvance on February 27, 2010, 01:52:45 AM

Not purchased yet but have left a few hints around the place just in case my wife doesn't know what to buy me for an anniversary present ... you know the subtle way  leaving the suppliers web site open on the computer, purchasing a book "Learning how to use Your Mini Lathe" and  may try using this photo as the screen saver 

Ah the hinting game...I know it well...though for me if it works it generally just ends up as her saying "Why don't you order it...that way it will be the right thing" ::)

The lathe looks nice, is that the one from Micro-Mark? Good Luck with the hints!

Quote from: gfadvance on February 27, 2010, 01:52:45 AM

The MIG pigments are good, if you haven't got it yet would recommend you try their Industrial City Dirt, P039.

I think I might have that one  ;) ;D


MR

Paul,

That's a nice set of dividers.


Dave,

Thanks for the printer calibrating scaling tip. Might save me time from having to scale it into or draw it in AutoCad.


MR

Quote from: Roughboy on February 27, 2010, 09:26:38 AM

Quote from: marc_reusser on February 26, 2010, 11:14:07 PM
Paul...can we at least up the quality a bit? ;)
Marc ;D

Marc - your allowance is obviously much greater than mine... ;)

Paul

....errr....I was hoping you were buying. ;) ;D ;D My allowance doesn't extend to that level.....I've just been fortunate to have some very gracious and appreciative clients. :)

My latest adventures meant buying an etching tank, and then sourcing a good supply of ferric chloride and sheet brass at the right price.  The tank normally has an aquarium heater in it to get the ferric up to a good working temperature, but given the Australian summers, it wasn't really needed today!  A small air pump is mounted behind the timber splash screen to provide the bubbling/agitation.  So far I've done a few test sheets, and need to work on alignment issues.  Only out by approx .5mm, which is ok for the current parts I'm working on, but need to adjust for some other future ideas.  I know the "cabinet work" is a bit rough, but it was from shed scraps, and does the job, knowing it was only going to get stained with ferric, so its finish wasn't high on my priority list...

Dan

Hey Dan

Nice!  Hope you'll start a thread on your home etching and show us how you do it.     

Dave   

Quote from: marc_reusser on February 28, 2010, 02:32:05 AM
...I've just been fortunate to have some very gracious and appreciative clients. :)

Very fortunate indeed...  :)  I dare say we could all use a few more such expressions of appreciation, not that we feel under-appreciated, just strapped and thirsty...  ;) ;D ;D

Paul

That looks like a decent and practical setup Dan and yes, please share some more info on your etching project.

Paul

Etching is to metal what lasers are to wood and paper. It is a necessary but underutilized technique. And the process requires no expensive, specialized equipment. Please think about a detailed S-B-S. I would publish it in the next Modelers' Annual without question. -- Russ

A good thread going here...  neat stuff.

My new spray booth is getting a good workout.  Made by Artograph, it is 30" wide... just big enough for a 1:20 Mike.

I prefer Floqul paints, so venting to the outside is a must. 

In the end, the engine weathering project turned out nicely (I have yet to photo the end result).

The cost is easily justified as I have so many models that have been waiting for the airbrush treatment.  Just today I made big progress on one of my EBT steel boxcars.

Geoff

I had to restock my tubing from Plastruct (code TB) These are O.D. (1" -  1 1/8" -  1 1/4") 1/16" wall  (1 1/2" -  1 3/4" -  2") 3/32" wall  (2 1/4") 1/8" wall  (2 1/2" -  2 3/4" -  3") 5/64" wall. These go at 1/4" intervals up to 6" These ten pieces cost me a little over 100.00

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2718%2F4395977835_aa0faff371_b.jpg&hash=b142abbe0594f372a8346e865ed3c8f426ab276d)

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

As an update to the "etchtank" purpose, and some of the reason why I bought it, here's a link to a flickr page of mine, showing some of the brass etches I've been doing.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dans-stuff/

There are 2 sets of pics there.  The "Building G41 in On30" set has some of the brass etch stuff midway through the collection.  The other set is for "Triple Creek", which is the progress of my home layout, which has been slow since I started to play with the brass (and also start thinking about the next layout!)

Cheers,
Dan

Quote from: marc_reusser on February 28, 2010, 02:23:45 AM

Ah the hinting game...I know it well...though for me if it works it generally just ends up as her saying "Why don't you order it...that way it will be the right thing" ::)

The lathe looks nice, is that the one from Micro-Mark? Good Luck with the hints!
MR

Our respective wife's obviously work to the same logic - I've just heard the same statement , word for word !

The lathe is from here http://www.amadeal.co.uk/acatalog/7_X_14.html, very similar to the Micro-Mark one which is not surprising as these mini-lathes all seem to be built in one of two factories in China ..... although I think the Micro Mart has an induction motor which is a more powerful beast.

A review of the version available in the US is here http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Reviews/Big_dog/bigdog2.htm

Not a recent purchase, but one of my best tool buys in a long time has been magnetic tool holder strips.  Mount them on the wall, and steel tools stick to them.   Much better than a peg board or jars and drawers.

I bought mine at the local hardware store, but HFT carries them.


Dave

Excellent practice Dave... a place for everything and everything in its place... a man after my own heart. There's nothing more frustrating or time wasting at the workbench then to be rummaging around for the tool you need and can't find.

Paul

   A bit late, but eh ......What allowance, are you lucky guys getting an allowance for modeling  :o :o
   I have to earn my modeling money...... ::) ::)

   Jacq

I spend a hundred bucks on paper. Does that count? -- Russ

Quote from: finescalerr on March 02, 2010, 01:06:53 AM
I spend a hundred bucks on paper. Does that count? -- Russ

And what do you do with that paper , Uncle Russell ?  Origami ?

  Nick , off to look for a corner in his circular tower .

Quote from: Scratchman on February 28, 2010, 04:35:43 PM
I had to restock my tubing from Plastruct (code TB) These are O.D. (1" -  1 1/8" -  1 1/4") 1/16" wall  (1 1/2" -  1 3/4" -  2") 3/32" wall  (2 1/4") 1/8" wall  (2 1/2" -  2 3/4" -  3") 5/64" wall. These go at 1/4" intervals up to 6" These ten pieces cost me a little over 100.00

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Thanks...very helpful. I did not know they came this large...particularly fond of the wall thickness of the larger dia ones ......I assume they were special order, as I have never seen them at the LHS.

Marc

I don't have much use for a lot of the Plastruct stuff but you can't beat this tubing. I sent this order by snail mail and had it back in six days. They are located in City Of  Industry Ca.

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

I need to sift some very fine dirt for a current build, so I ordered some wire mesh/fabric samples, which came in the mail today. I found them pretty darn cool. I have not tried removing the screens from their paper wrap, but by the looks of it, my actual sample pieces are from 1.75" to 2" wide and 2.75" to 3" tall. The really fine mesh looks almost like a silk fabric...but it's stainless! The wire size/dia is not relevant for what I need them for (but could be of great help for use on a scale model), as I was more concerened with the screen opening size. You can see by the text on the wrappers that the openings range from .0010" (.0254mm) to .0078" (.1981mm)...that is some freaky fine mesh.

I plan to make some small rectangular sieve boxes out of styrene, so I can use them to sift the dirt.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg820.imageshack.us%2Fimg820%2F6185%2Fmesheg.jpg&hash=ea441d4f62a60b3146e0b42c1c985c12d6610647)


M

Where did you get them??

Ray,

I'm a bit reticent to post it online, as the finer material runs as much as $115 per sf.....and I don't want the company to be inundated by a couple hundred requests for samples (since they are only a distributor) from people that are only visitors or lurkers here, and then post the info elsewhwere for people that don't "really" need it, but order it just because. I'll send you the link/info in a PM.


Marc

Here is some other cool stuff that came in the mail today, courtesy of AK Interactive Products. These (except for the Engine Grime and Fuel Stains) are their newly released products:

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There are two chipping solutions, a thicker and thinner (one for larger and one for smaller sized chips), a Pigment Fixer, Light Rust Pigment, Medium Rust Pigment, Light Dust Pigment, Africa Dust Pigment, Dark Steel Pigment, Black Pigment. I haven't had a chance to try them on a build yet, but simply looking at them, they are extremy finely ground, and very solid coloring (no visible dilution by addatives). The Dark steel is very cool, unlike most metalic pigments, it does not look metalic when in the container, it is so fine it looks matte dark grey...but it rubs on in a smooth opaque steel sheen finish. The light and medium rust colors are also very nice. All these new pigment colors integrate into and augment my pigment collection beautifully.

Just for fun/info...since were on the pigment subject....below is a pic comparing the container size of some of the various brands on the market (I am missing the Vallejo pigments). Left to right: AGAMA, MIG, AK, CMK, Bragdons, Dr. Bens.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg135.imageshack.us%2Fimg135%2F9483%2Fpigmentcomparison.jpg&hash=49bf2d100278347bb098d4598cb74cea201de957)


Marc

Another cool thing that was sent to me a week ago, courtesy of Alex at 'Uschi van der Rosten"  ( http://www.uschivdr.com/ )are scale plywood pattern decals. I am really curious to try these, as I have seen some stunning results done using them. The big sheets are two from his current line, while the smaller sheet is an early test/preview sample of some future patterns.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg18.imageshack.us%2Fimg18%2F8272%2Fushiplywooddecals.jpg&hash=473a59ceca2c5db27e8ef7d6d4ffd6d2af9e4122)


Here's an image from the UdvR site showing the product in use.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fu.jimdo.com%2Fwww9%2Fo%2Fs463a6c435f9b616d%2Fimg%2Fia95283b63e503659%2F1298569282%2Fstd%2Fthe-closer-you-get-the-more-you-discover.jpg&hash=97cee4aa78a658b02399529e3dc9ebd3639ffbd5)


Marc

Lastly and by no means the least...actually quite the most amazing, is a set of custom painting masks for my current build, graciously supplied by Mal Mayfield, of Miracle Masks in the UK ( http://www.freewebs.com/miraclemasks/ ) [Thanks to Alex at UvdR) for putting me in contact with Mal], this set of lettering masks is so fine, and he was able to get the type so small, that I can't even see the cuts on the mask without a magnifying lupe (I first thought they were blank sheets, and was wondering what the heck!?...but under the magnifier they really came to life). I really look forward to using these. The masks came on the sheet shown, with full written and illustrated instructions.

M

Aw, heck! Now there's nothing left to get for Christmas! -- Russ

Some neat stuff, the plywood seems like a good idea.

Ray, Mcmaster Carr has stainless fine mesh screen that can be had pretty reasonably. The really fine stuff can get pricey though.

How do the masks work?  When there is an opening in a letter, for example, how does the interior of the O stay in place?   Is it on a carrier film that's removed?   

Dave, there's a SBS on the masking on the website

http://www.freewebs.com/miraclemasks/apps/photos/album?albumid=120106

Hey Ed, yeah saw that, but without having the product in hand, I'm still unclear as to how it works, particularly with very fine lettering as Marc mentioned.   Interesting also that the stencils are made with a high end plotter.  We had a thread here about plotters a while back, but it didn't go anywhere.  Still have a lot of interest and questions about these tools.   

Dave

Dave, Ed,

Yes, there is a transfer film process, then after placing that is pulled off, and the parts that are to receive paint are removed, leaving the mask (including letter interiors). I have not tried it yet, as I am not at that point on the build. But Mal sent me enough masks so that I can experiment (screw up) on a test piece first.

Dave,  from my email corrspondence with Mal, he seems like a really nice and helpful fellow. You might just try dropping him a note with your questions.

Marc

I know this is a bit off-topic, but this is what I spent my allowance on today!
Like most years, this went on sale this morning at 10 and was sold out before lunch.   I've never been able to get a bottle before, but this year I knew a guy who knew a guy and I was able to buy one.
It's especially cool because the rarity is not because its a commemorative or collectible bottle intended to sit on a mantel: they just don't make very much each year.  It's meant to be enjoyed slowly, and I intend to do just that during the winter months as I finish the long list of unfinished projects on my bench. 

Anyway, I'm going to smile at my new purchase for a bit while everyone else gets back to the topic at hand.

Not OT at all. A very important tool....and yours seems to be of exceptional quality. Congrats!

M

FWIW, here are the sieves that I constructed with the two of the screen samples. While I was at it I also did a quick fabrication of a small scoop that I can use to place the irt and pigment exactle where I need (it should also come in handy for scooping small amounts of pigment ot of their containers).


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg689.imageshack.us%2Fimg689%2F4360%2F201110080058557561.jpg&hash=348d5fa85e8946e893ba86d6656c75384091b0c7)


M

I'm glad to see you are trying to get away from your usual "slap-dash" methods Marc  ;D ;D

I have also come to the conclusion that your Wife needs to cut your allowance down considerably, then you would need to operate like the rest of us and pr-order stuff as presents ------------- some of of us are buying stuff now against  2014/5 Xmas presents.

I've put down the cheap Harbor Freight table saw but since starting my kit business, I found I need a fast way to get stripwood for the kits.   The 10" contractor saw just wouldn't cut it (sorry for the pun).
So I plunked down my $39 (got a discount on that) and then took it home.   Of course the table was too small and there's no fence with it.   I had some scrap countertop so cut a 12" square piece and mounted it to the original metal table.   I then made a fence from some PVC lumber I had left over.
It really worked great.   Cut enough stripwood for 40 or so kits in 1/2 hour last night.

Crud. Now I have a sudden desire to visit Harbor Freight. :) .. looks good but .. what's PVC lumber?

Very neat. ....Hmmm, I think HF just happens to be sort-of on the way to my client tomorrow.  ::)

The Harbor Freight chop saw is also a reasonable tool if you can go through the trouble of constructing a new table/fence.  Be sure to get extra blades for the saws, they tend to be hard to get!

dave

The saw is crap without a modification.   So plan ahead.
PVC lumber is the "plastic" stuff like they use on homes nowadays.   AZEK is one of the brand names.   You can glue it using MEK or similar, I used the plumbing stuff.
The blade that comes with the saw is way too wide of a kerf for stripwood cutting.   It cost me $15 for the fine kerf (.020) blade here: http://www.thurstonmfg.com/cut-off-saws.html (http://www.thurstonmfg.com/cut-off-saws.html) # I-294.   It should last a long time as I'm only cutting wood that is 1/32 to 1/16 thick.
And you definitely want that narrow slit in the table to prevent the stripwood from falling into the cutout.
If you plan on building this, drop me a note off list and I'll give you some tips I learned when building this.

And while we're on the subject, if you have a contractor saw and want to rip cut some small stock, get a thin kerf blade.   I use a Tenryu 7¼"; 52 tooth; .063 kerf blade on my 10" saw http://www.mytoolstore.com/tenryu/thinke.html (http://www.mytoolstore.com/tenryu/thinke.html) and can rip 3/4" scrap pine boards down to 1/32" thick strips.   You do need a thin kerf throat plate for the saw though, or else the strip will get sucked down into the saw.

G'evening all,

this stuff arrived on MY workbench (=desk) recently - bought a couple of bags, brought along by a friend returning from a business trip to Chicago ... yummy ...  ;D

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fgallery%2Fimage.php%3Falbum_id%3D1%26amp%3Bimage_id%3D332&hash=f8a3c18cfd9ad6a6511bb1413d2d4b3204aa35ef)

As a chocolate lover with a good knowledge of the US vs. Germany candy market I have to say that Reese's Peanut Butter Cups are some of the better chocolate products the US has to offer. (Those waxed bricks called Hershey's can't even be considered chocolate) However, the Americans are the masters of chocolate chip cookies!

Those bricks look pretty tasty too!   :)

Gerald, are you another of those madmen who builds with individual bricks? If so I applaud you. -- Russ

Quote from: finescalerr on October 21, 2011, 12:54:53 AM
Gerald, are you another of those madmen who builds with individual bricks? If so I applaud you. -- Russ

... yes, Ssur ... I am ...  ;D

It's my second attempt building a half timbered shed, but it's still in progress - and I'm not quite sure yet, if it eventually turns out still to crappy to be shown here ...  :-\ 

Quote from: finescalerr on October 21, 2011, 12:54:53 AM
Gerald, are you another of those madmen who builds with individual bricks? If so I applaud you. -- Russ

     We're not mad . Just different .

Nick, you are the exception: both different AND mad. But that's part of your charm. You do not have to stand in the corner today. -- Russ

Quote from: finescalerr on October 21, 2011, 12:21:26 PM
You do not have to stand in the corner today. -- Russ

Whatsup , you going soft in your twilight years ?

DaKra -

Which Aves product(s) have been using?  I'm looking for something I can use to make "welds" on a 1:13.7 model.

Bill Martinsen

Quote from: billmart on November 05, 2011, 02:21:02 PM
DaKra -

Which Aves product(s) have been using?  I'm looking for something I can use to make "welds" on a 1:13.7 model.

Bill Martinsen

Milliput....fine grain.

Wanted to thank Barney for his post here  http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1465.msg29512#msg29512  (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1465.msg29512#msg29512) noting a UK source for PE handwheels. I received my order today,and must say that upon first inspection they are beautifully done, and service was outstanding. Ordered on the 3rd, they shipped on the 4th, and arrived on the 10th. The site is not the most easy to find what you want, and payment from overseas could be easier, but do-able; and shipping cost me more than the small bundle of items (I should have bought more pieces as ship stays the same)....but IMO it was all well worth it.

When I get some time, several of them will be very useful to restart, or at least move forward, a couple of builds that have been stalled for lack of a good/proper size, handwheels

M

Marc, those are nice.  Speaking of gears and handwheels,  I'm drawing a Gear & Handwheel Volume 2.   If you or anyone still need a specific type / size, LMK, email me a photo.   The .0145" thickness of the material I use works out pretty well.  Brass can be a bit too thin in larger scales.

Dave

Here again are some parts from the current set.
 
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.vectorcut.com%2Fimages%2FGearAssortmentSmall4.jpg&hash=1ca912cafb63b702c94fb7279c8d086263dba787)

Wow. -- Russ

It was the big IPMS show at Telford ( England) over the weekend , and I spent a big wodge ( technical term) of my birthday money from my Mummy and Mummy-in-law on stuff from the show . The bulk of it went on AK Interactive washes and weathering fluids , but the one I was really after , the worn effects fluid , was all sold out. So I'll have to scour the country for some .

  I also spent what many people would regard as silly money on some 1/35th scale barbed wire made by this lot http://www.rmgresinmodels.com/ , but when it is rusted up will look better than any etched brass stuff . It is only available intermittantly from the company so you have to grab it when you see it .

 I spent £6.00 on two pieces of rubberised horsehair , which I'll use to make hedges and shrubs . I had previously dismissed it as being on a par with lichen and coloured sawdust for realistic scenery , mainly because I hadn't seen it be used properly . But I saw some on these people's stand http://www.treemendusmodels.co.uk/ that convinced me that it could be made to look pretty realistic . I have been playing around with a piece over the last day and I'll post a photo sometime , if I can be bothered .

The last thing I bought was a copy of this book . It has three or four articles devoted to aging and weathering vehicles using many of the latest methods with great results . One of them is by Rick Lawler , who if you know his work , is worth buying the book for just his article alone . There is also a gallery at the back of a number of other modellers work , some of whom are familiar to everyone here . £25.00 . Expensive or good value ? You decide . Me ,I think it is worth the money .

 Nick

I wasn't going to say this until I ordered myself a copy , but as a way of a heads up, there is Volume 2 of Mig 's FAQ book is going to be available at the end of the month for a limited time . This will cost an eye watering 57 Euros but I think will be worth having if you are into weathering your vehicles nicely .
 

Bloody typical , it would appear that AK Interactive's Worn Effect Fluid is now unobtainable in the UK . I have been unable to locate a bottle anywhere . Hopefully , this is a temporary shortage but it is rather annoying as I could do with some at this time . I do have some of their Heavy Chipping Fluid and some hairspray so that'll have to do for the time being .
  I guess there are worse things happening in the World ,

   Nick

Michigan Toy Soldier......Had a whole shit load of the AK worn Effect Fluid.....i picked up a bottle and a bottle of Heavy chipping fluid last week. :)

Yeah, Mich Toy (http://royaloak.patch.com/articles/michigan-toy-soldier-owner-gets-jail-time-in-director-peter-jackson-credit-card-fraud).. a stand-up establishment if ever there was one.

Just saw this! I have a used copy of an earlier volume of this book. Very nice books!

Quote from: shropshire lad on November 14, 2011, 03:54:50 PMThe last thing I bought was a copy of this book . It has three or four articles devoted to aging and weathering vehicles using many of the latest methods with great results . One of them is by Rick Lawler , who if you know his work , is worth buying the book for just his article alone . There is also a gallery at the back of a number of other modellers work , some of whom are familiar to everyone here.

Quote from: JESTER on January 26, 2012, 06:31:15 AM
Just saw this! I have a used copy of an earlier volume of this book. Very nice books!

Quote from: shropshire lad on November 14, 2011, 03:54:50 PMThe last thing I bought was a copy of this book . It has three or four articles devoted to aging and weathering vehicles using many of the latest methods with great results . One of them is by Rick Lawler , who if you know his work , is worth buying the book for just his article alone . There is also a gallery at the back of a number of other modellers work , some of whom are familiar to everyone here.

  I think that Volume 6 is almost as useful as Mig's FAQ book at less than half the price . But that would be sacrilegious to say out aloud . So I won't ,

    Nick

Quote from: shropshire lad on January 25, 2012, 03:07:32 PM
Bloody typical , it would appear that AK Interactive's Worn Effect Fluid is now unobtainable in the UK . I have been unable to locate a bottle anywhere . Hopefully , this is a temporary shortage but it is rather annoying as I could do with some at this time . I do have some of their Heavy Chipping Fluid and some hairspray so that'll have to do for the time being .
  I guess there are worse things happening in the World ,

   Nick

Somebody should look into what the magical potion really is. I have somewhat mixed feelings on the modelling industry´s way of relabeling quite ordinary stuff with fancy names and logos. MIG´s line of washes & thinner has to be the most overpriced dilluted oilpaint and turpentine ever sold. Quite convinient, but people should be aware of the cheaper alternatives that can be found in any art supplies store. (A tube of oilpaint and a litre of white spirit will go a *very* long way)

I also have mixed feelings on the FAQ books by mr. Jimenez. On one side they are excellent sources of very good modelling info, with awesome pictures of first rate modelling. On the other hand they are quite shameless advertisements for specific products. FAQ volume 1 plugged the MIG line of washes and pigments. In volume 2 almost all references to MIG products are gone, pigments almost non-existent. AK-Interactive products havetaken their place, and I this is of course due to the fact that AK-I is the publisher. I accept that techniques evolve, but I just dont buy that all the MIG products/techniques suddenly have become obsolete.

But all said, I reccomend the book, but it does not hurt to hunt for cheaper, generic prodcts to replace the fancy AK-Interactive potions.
(Sorry if this really belongs in another thread, but I felt it had some relevance here as well)

Miguel mentions that his old powders aren't as finely ground as the new AK ones. The AK washes are premixed and take a lot of guesswork out. They seem pretty convenient. I also think it's normal for Miguel to talk about the new products that he now endorses/uses. Why would he plug MIG anymore?? I doubt he has any input on their products.

I agree and don't think pigments are obsolete at all. It's what I use most but they've been talked about in depth so that's why he doesn't cover them in the new book plus it's nice to get info on all the new washes.

All that being said, I really only use Tamiya paint and Bragdon powders.

-

Quote from: Hauk on January 26, 2012, 10:17:25 AM
I also have mixed feelings on the FAQ books by mr. Jimenez.

Quote from: JESTER on January 26, 2012, 01:50:35 PM
Miguel mentions that his old powders aren't as finely ground as the new AK ones. The AK washes are premixed and take a lot of guesswork out. They seem pretty convenient. I also think it's normal for Miguel to talk about the new products that he now endorses/uses. Why would he plug MIG anymore?? I doubt he has any input on their products.

I agree and don't think pigments are obsolete at all. It's what I use most but they've been talked about in depth so that's why he doesn't cover them in the new book plus it's nice to get info on all the new washes.

All that being said, I really only use Tamiya paint and Bragdon powders.

-

Quote from: Hauk on January 26, 2012, 10:17:25 AM
I also have mixed feelings on the FAQ books by mr. Jimenez.

  I believe there was a big falling out in the MIG Production empire with Mig himself leaving with not alot . Therefore it is not surprising he is plugging AK and not MIG , although there is a photo or two with MIG pigments in .

   He used pigments in Volume 1 quite extensively and says he doesn't want to repeat what he put in there in the second volume . So if you haven't got volume 1 you are out of luck .

I also have mixed feelings on the books , but until something else better comes along they'll do fine .

  Whilst he says quite clearly that it is a book about painting and weathering AFVs his section on building the dioramas is pretty weak . So I still think that the market is still wide open for Russ to produce a decent book on building dioramas properly . From my observations this is one area where railway modellers win hands down over the military guys . Russ has got enough article writers "on his books" to be able to produce something that could be of use to all modellers .

  Nick ( just causing trouble again )

Nick, you may come out of the corner for a moment.

One idea I have had for a couple of years is to produce either one book or a series on the "Art of the Diorama". It would include detailed information about how to construct every aspect of a top notch diorama, from scenery to structures. (Vehicles are an entirely different subject so I would omit them.)

How much overall demand do you gentlemen think there might be for such a book (in thousands of units)? Do we have enough modelers here, with enough interest in contributing information, to put together such a publication? Do you think we could create the "definitive" book?

For the past few years Marc has told me the real demand for quality modeling information is not the model railroad guys (most of whom I've given up on) but the military and vehicle modelers. Yet few of those people buy the Modelers' Annual despite its general, rather than railroad, focus.

Any thoughts?

Russ

Russ although I wouldnt dare contribute anything to the book, I would be one of the first in line to buy it.

Ive looked all over and books about building a diorama are no where to be found. So you definately have my vote.

Im sure a book with ideas from the talent pool we have here will be in grrat demand and will sell like hot cakes.

Quote from: finescalerr on January 27, 2012, 01:21:49 AM
Nick, you may come out of the corner for a moment.

One idea I have had for a couple of years is to produce either one book or a series on the "Art of the Diorama". It would include detailed information about how to construct every aspect of a top notch diorama, from scenery to structures. (Vehicles are an entirely different subject so I would omit them.)

How much overall demand do you gentlemen think there might be for such a book (in thousands of units)? Do we have enough modelers here, with enough interest in contributing information, to put together such a publication? Do you think we could create the "definitive" book?

For the past few years Marc has told me the real demand for quality modeling information is not the model railroad guys (most of whom I've given up on) but the military and vehicle modelers. Yet few of those people buy the Modelers' Annual despite its general, rather than railroad, focus.

Any thoughts?

Russ

  No it's alright I'll just shout from the corner . There is a rather attractive view just walking passed the window and I want savour it for as long as possible . No ,don't bother coming over, as you won't be able to see because the window is a bit to high for you !

The way I see it , you would get a number of different modellers producing articles on specific subjects i.e. groundcover , vegetation or building construction , and you would arrange them in order so that the book would take the reader through the whole process from start to finish . This sort of thing has been done before , by the likes of Model Railroader magazine but yours could be a great deal more comprehensive . You could include up to the minute techniques and all the latest products that are available ( many of which have been documented on this website ). As you are not a manufacturer , like AK Interactive , you don't have any products to push , so your coverage can be neutral and not biased . It would even be possible to produce chapters on reviews of different products and comparisons on their relative merits . This hasn't been done before on this subject to my knowledge . If you are trying to appeal to a global market you might like to try and find out which products are available in which countries .

   You need to be trying to increase your possible contributor pool from modellers outside of our little enclave , and from different modelling disciplines . But you know that already .

  The reason the military and vehicle modellers don't buy your Annuals is down to marketing . Check out some of their Forums and see who else advertises there . Just remember Mig's book will probably sell out before it gets reviewed by any magazines mainly through word of mouth and mentions on Forums like yours . This is where having a Faceache page will help .

  I honestly believe that there is a definite opening for a book that makes all previous books on scenery and diorama building redundant . And I reckon you're just the chap to do it . You need to be starting to be proactive now by lining up people to produce articles/chapters and working out how you want to set it out . That way you could have a book out in two or three years . You will probably need to commission model builders to build  dioramas to illustrate specific aspects of the process .

  So come on then , get your finger out , climb off the fence , jump to it and get producing . Your public is waiting ,

   Nick

Marketing and presentation is key! I never buy a book without looking at it first. Do a book review with video showing the pages and post it on Youtube like this site does: http://parkablogs.com/content/book-review-sculpting-galaxy-inside-star-wars-model-shop

Youtube is another great advertising area like Facebook and Twitter.

The Images you show for the Modeler's Annual are really good but the presentation could be more dynamic and your Publishing site could be more organized and professional looking.

Quote from: finescalerr on January 27, 2012, 01:21:49 AMFor the past few years Marc has told me the real demand for quality modeling information is not the model railroad guys (most of whom I've given up on) but the military and vehicle modelers. Yet few of those people buy the Modelers' Annual despite its general, rather than railroad, focus.

Any thoughts?

Russ

I definitely could use help to make my website(s) more appealing and, as Marc knows, at best I am semi-competent when it comes to Internet marketing. Clint Eastwood's, "A man's got to know his limitations" is one I live by.

If any of you guys wants to talk about contributing to a proposed diorama book, don't hesitate to contact me here, by e-mail, or by phone. I'd love to kick around some ideas.

Russ

Not my allowance, but a Wedding present from my wife 6 years ago!  It is a tablesaw popular with boat and glider modelers.  I now can make all of the custom sized wood strip I need without the hastle of trial and error associated with the cheaper saws from Micromark and other vendors.  Making accurate 1/48 scale sized pieces can be addictive.  And with the Micrometer attached to the fence, you can make one piece at a time and not have to produce a year's supply of a given size at once.  And, yes you can cut balsa thin enough to see through it.

I've even itused to produce marketery (SP?) in the cabinet shop from holly and other hard woods.

Just a satisfied customer without any connection to the company

Follow the link to see it:  http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/index.html?id_mm=1220MM920589

Quote from: Lawton Maner on March 03, 2012, 02:52:28 AM
Not my allowance, but a Wedding present from my wife 6 years ago!  It is a tablesaw popular with boat and glider modelers.  I now can make all of the custom sized wood strip I need without the hastle of trial and error associated with the cheaper saws from Micromark and other vendors.  Making accurate 1/48 scale sized pieces can be addictive.  And with the Micrometer attached to the fence, you can make one piece at a time and not have to produce a year's supply of a given size at once.  And, yes you can cut balsa thin enough to see through it.

I've even itused to produce marketery (SP?) in the cabinet shop from holly and other hard woods.

Just a satisfied customer without any connection to the company

Follow the link to see it:  http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/index.html?id_mm=1220MM920589

Oh no! They offer 230V machines now! I have drooled over the Byrnes disk sander and saw earlier, but the urge to spend was kept in control by the fact that only 120V versions was available.

I am *very* tempted by that disk sander. I have a Proxxon disk sander, and it is the most useless piece of crap in my workshop.
Anyone that hav tried that sander? I am looking for a machine that can handle sanding the ends of wood of about 1/4"X1/4" to precise angles.

I have found that the mitre guage which comes with Byrnes Saw and a spacer block clamped to the rip fence to prevent binding and kickback is a simple way to repeatedly cut parts such as the posts for a railroad trestle.  And once the rip fence to saw blade distance is set, both the straight and angled posts are cut to length with out any complicated math to find the length of the angled posts (the parrallel line thingy from high school geometery).  The only thing the Byrnes saw won't do is cut compound mitres.

Not exactly tools or stuff for the bench....but hey....felt like I won the lottery this week when the mailman brought these

Michael Fichtenmayer/Industria Mechanika "Remora" kit, and Paul Ranta/Big Red Collective "Factory Drill Press" kit.

Have not had time to really go through them yet, but hope to over the weekend.



01001101

Nice Marc. I'm interested to see what you do with the drill press.

Marc ,

   Glad to see that you have got yourself one of Michael's Remoras . I think it is a stunning kit and goes together without any problems . I have finished mine and will take some pictures over the weekend . It is not as subtle as Michael's but I am fairly pleased with what I've done . All I need to do now is finish the floating island it goes with .

  I hope he does produce a lightship sometime in the future as that would be a monster .

Nick

Congrats Marc!
Are you going to build a floating machine shop?
Guess it wont have a lathe in it......
=Marty

hey "M" whats the deal with the drill press? I don't see it on their website? New item not out yet or did I miss it?
thanks
MPH

MPH -- Have a look here:
http://www.bigredcollective.com/Accessories/35-accessories

-- "D"(M)

How long did it take that Remora to get to you?

Bexley,

The "pre-order" wait was about 30-40 days I think (can't remember exactly when I ordered it).....and once I got the shipping notification from the PO./iMech, it took about 5-7 days to get to me.

Thanks "D"
MPH

Hm. I ordered two of the welder girls a few weeks ago, and the store listed them as in stock. I guess I will have to contact them and see what's up. I suppose it was possible that it was a pre-order and I wasn't paying attention, but my recollection was that they were listed as in stock. Though, I suppose the stock quantity could have just been set to whatever their expected first run was.

Quote from: Bexley on March 25, 2012, 01:25:37 PM
Hm. I ordered two of the welder girls a few weeks ago, and the store listed them as in stock. I guess I will have to contact them and see what's up. I suppose it was possible that it was a pre-order and I wasn't paying attention, but my recollection was that they were listed as in stock. Though, I suppose the stock quantity could have just been set to whatever their expected first run was.

  Blimey , give the poor chap a chance he only announced Sasha on 13th of March and it clearly says on his website that they are not going to be delivered for a few weeks . A bit of patience is required .

Anyone pre-order a "Sasha" they dont want?
My Hornethropter needs some welding done! :P

Also anyone have a Russian Tank girl Natalia they want to part with?
I'm thinking an all girl crew for the 'thropter.......

-Marty

1. I (apparently) missed the part about not being delivered for a few weeks, and I had no other reason to think there would be a delay in getting it sent out.

2. My worry was not that it hadn't been sent, but that it had and had gotten lost in the mail, or that due to some software hiccup the order had not been received.

3. Given that I inquired from Marc how long it took to get his order, rather than a) ranting about how long it was taking, or b) emailing them a complaint, I feel I am giving the poor chap a chance.

I just got my order from Trackside Details. Parts for my 0-4-0 and the two Tozers.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7238%2F7027436383_259ace9a4c_b.jpg&hash=5fca70b67ab16e1957273a5a41078265c946edfd)

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Did you order direct from TD? How quickly did you get the parts?

I've ordered some from Caboose Hobbies in the past, which is fine except they don't use the TD part numbers, they don't show any photos, and they don't provide a good description of the part, so it's often difficult to be sure which part you're ordering.

Ray, here's the link to Trackside Details

http://www.tracksidedetails.com/

I emailed  my order to check if I had the right prices. David emailed me back that it was OK. I sent a money order on Thursday of last week, and got the parts today. He will take checks or Pay Pal. The web site has photos of all the parts.

Gordon Birrell 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Gordon,
Those fittings look great. I am always on the hunt for pieces like this. thanks for posting the link and info.

Marc

G'evening all,

getting the Special Hydrocal was a piece of cake, but getting some Floquil/Polly Scale colours "concrete" and "aged concrete" as well turned out to be the tricky bit ... but I finally managed it - today.  ;D

So I got some new stuff on my bench (desk) and am going to give it a try soon ...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F09-verschiedenes%2F09-0001-allowance-p1040136.jpg&hash=66786bcf978d645e0d67c2dc8597047797ccabdc)  

Cheers

Gerald;  Sweet! Now, I look forward to your newest concrete creations!


I only had a box of Japanese stuff sitting on my doorstep today. :-\  Hopefully it will clear things up.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.xx.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ash3%2F522727_2032110778388_1712727761_991118_1849407754_n.jpg&hash=4f1730def1bc26e73d29471d7585ca96d1725eeb)

Quote from: mad gerald on April 20, 2012, 12:40:37 PMgetting the Special Hydrocal was a piece of cake

What makes it "special?"

Quote from: Bexley on April 21, 2012, 01:34:56 AM

Quote from: mad gerald on April 20, 2012, 12:40:37 PMgetting the Special Hydrocal was a piece of cake

What makes it "special?"

... don't know if there ever has been a "normal" or "regular" type of Hydrocal - the advantage seems to be IMHO more volume combined with less weight, compared i. e. to plaster or any common compound being used for landscaping. (package insert says: "... half the weight ... twice abundant ... plain surface ...")

Cheers

So, special as in "hydrocal is special compared to other plasters" and not "this hydrocal is special because it's better than boring plain normal hydrocal."

Quote from: Bexley on April 21, 2012, 02:06:57 PM
So, special as in "hydrocal is special compared to other plasters" and not "this hydrocal is special because it's better than boring plain normal hydrocal."

... I'm afraid so ...

G'day all,

... hmmmmmmm ... no one posted here since April ... ?

Well, this arrived on my desk today: The Weathering Magazine "Rust", 502 Abt. odorless turpentine, some 502 Abt. oil colors and additional Vallejo acrylic colours ...  8)

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Cheers

Quote from: marc_reusser on April 21, 2012, 12:32:44 AM
Gerald;  Sweet! Now, I look forward to your newest concrete creations!


I only had a box of Japanese stuff sitting on my doorstep today. :-\  Hopefully it will clear things up.

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Hi Marc

Do you order direct from Mr hobby or do you have another source that I could look at?

Thanks in advance

Wesley,

The last couple of orders were through sellers on Ebay, I think one ws out of Taiwan, and the other out of Singapore.  Chose them, because the price was better than here, and I could buy numerous cans, and they gave a somewhat consolidated shipping cost. Took 4 weeks to get...but all told still less than if I ordered it from a shop here.

There are a number of shops that sell it here online, that I will often buy a can from if/when I am placing an order for other items anyway.

Well here's a quick post - and a few snatched pic's. Kind of looking for a bit of advice too, not the smart alecky kind, but some genuine honest advice.
You see - I've finally managed to purloin myself a Lathe, not a fancy all singing all dancing mega lathe but a rather old and a bit tatty "watchmakers" lathe. I love the size of it as it fits really well into my available space, doesn't have to go outside and will do most stuff I can imagine doing on it??
Done a bit of research online and it appears to be a "wartime or shortly thereafter" BTM "Geneva" style (don't actually know what that means) But it comes boxed with a fair assortment of accessories, most of which I don't understand or can't figure out how they work - it looks as though a few bits have gone walkabouts but most appears to be there?
There was a lot of other bits chucked in the box and .... well, you best have a look at the pic's and see what you think to my haul?

Here you go then .........

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi180.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx248%2FAndismodelpages%2FLathe%2520stuff%2FLathe--Stuff.jpg&hash=f04f2e3b57c676bd77932a5f114c9f451e661490)
The "Haul".


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The Box.

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The basic Lathe on it's baseboard with motor.

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Other assorted tools.

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And a Dremel tool.

There is a great "mechanical coping saw" that I forgot to take a detailed pic of too - that looks pretty groovy.
Don't make me feel bad if this isn't the latest in tool fashion or it's not mega "the dogs dangleys" as I'm quite thrilled with my apparent recent good fortune - it pretty much is what I've been after for a long long time - and I don't think I was robbed either!

Would appreciate some positive opinions or advice on the usage of this kind of kit.

All the best ..........

Well can't really comment on your questions Andi ........

But it looks as good as you described it, whose a lucky boy!

Wow!...what a wonderful piece, and incredible collection of "bits" and other tools that came along with that. Truly do love these. I Unfortunately cant help either....but do covet your "haul".  I a number of older and even just postwar, tools (some even from during the war, as my father-in-law was a master machineist at Douglas Aircraft), and they are some of my favorite tools to work with. The feel much better, are more solid and work just as good (if not better at times) than the vast majority of my newer tools.

Congratulations. I hope you gat a lot of enjoyment from them.


Marc

Nice! I like the small size, should be good for most modeling type work.

This is what happens when a hobby starts becoming more like work.  :-\ :)

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Marc ,

   Glad to see a pile of Diorama Debris moulds amongst your little haul . I notice you have one of the Spanish barrel tile moulds there . I think you will find it challenging to use . One tip , us the hardest plaster you can find because they are a fiddle to get out and break easily .

   I just started making a small sample roof last night using them and they do look good . The trick is to cast a big pile of tiles that are slightly diferent shades of terracotta then the roof won't look monotone .

   Don't throw the tiles that come out of the mould less than perfect as it is possible to use many of them without the defects being noticed .

  I look forward to seeing how you get on with their moulds ,

    Nick

Thanks for the tip Nick. Much Appreciated.

I need to get in touch with Diane(?) over there and ask her what colors (and ratios) she used for the bricks they show on the site, that she assembled an weathered, then order the pigment(s)......hard to tell from the pics what the pigment colors actually are.

Your just showin off :P
MPH

Quote from: Mr Potato Head on October 11, 2012, 05:46:41 PM
Your just showin off :P
MPH

Ha!  :D...wish it were so...but unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on what day it is  :) ) not.

Gil....

Now I'm showing off.  :P ;D  ;D (though all it means, is that I will be busy).


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   Is that all you need to start a new exercise ?
   I spend my allowance on differnent hardness pencils, rubbers and lots of heavy drafting paper for the new 1:35 project.
   Hope to show soon some carton mockups of the " Erftmühle" and waterwheel.
   
   Jacq

I notice all the products come from the same company. Something tells me you might be stretching the truth about spending your allowance ....

I spent my allowance on a new MacBook Pro and a few peripherals and a lot of software. The most elegant computer I have owned -- including those I have built myself.

Russ

Well , I bought this book on Sunday from the money I made selling off a load of stuff I'll never use . Rather profitable day , I must say .

  Hopefully it will be used during the construction of my project after next ,

  Nick

Ooooh, nice looking book Nick. Look forward to what you will be creating with this information.

Russ, actually it is the truth...in a sense :)..... the money I would have earned for the mag work was simply traded/exchanged for goods.

Quote from: shropshire lad on November 01, 2012, 01:59:18 AM
Well , I bought this book on Sunday ...

... but ... it's all about modelling trees ... not bricks ...  ::)  ;D

Quote from: mad gerald on November 01, 2012, 02:26:32 AM

Quote from: shropshire lad on November 01, 2012, 01:59:18 AM
Well , I bought this book on Sunday ...

... but ... it's all about modelling trees ... not bricks ...  ::)  ;D

  I know , Mad G , but there isn't anything I don't know about bricks whereas I need to brush up on my tree making skills if I am to become a World authority on the subject like I am with brick making !

I guess your working on that "Master Modeler" status Sir Nick!
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D

Seriously;
Please let us know how the book is, just don't tell us how it ends.
-Mj

Actually , I'm quite impressed with the book , it has some useful information in it . His tree making methods don't really break any new ground but the results he gets are good and even though I guess he is aiming at the 00/HO/0 Scale modellers his trees would be perfectly acceptable in the one true scale , 1/35th .

  By and large he is copying photos of actual trees so he has adjusted the shapes of the trunks and branches to match the originals which give some of them an interesting shape . Most of the materials he uses are readily available , though for some getting hold of HEKI static grass might be tricky , but there are plenty of alternatives .

   Although I haven't studied the previous book devoted to deciduous trees in depth I have the feeling that it is easier to make coniferous trees look convincing using this book . However , to get a more accurate view ask Gordon who gave his purse a major coronary on Sunday by buying both books . I don't need to buy the other one now as I'll just borrow his copy !

  I give it about 8 out of 10 .

   Nick

  Don't tell Marty , but it was the butler wot dun it .

If you are interested, you can buy the book and its twin here:  http://www.pendonmuseum.com/shop/index.php?category=6

The problem is they want that funny money which doesn't have pictures of dead presidents on it. ;D

I think I'll add them to my Christmas list.  No reason for SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) having an easy time in her shopping.  ::)

Lawton

Quote from: Lawton Maner on November 01, 2012, 11:07:50 PM
If you are interested, you can buy the book and its twin here:  http://www.pendonmuseum.com/shop/index.php?category=6

The problem is they want that funny money which doesn't have pictures of dead presidents on it. ;D

Lawton

  No , we have pictures of our wonderful living Queen !

I'm sure those who live in untamed countries like the US should be able to find a copy more locally and exchange some beaver pelts or blankets for one ,

  Nick

Quote from: shropshire lad on November 02, 2012, 01:40:34 AM

.... and exchange some beaver pelts or blankets for one ,

  Nick

You must have us confused with Canadians.  ;D ;D

I was more impressed with the first book, which contains a number of interesting and original ideas. The second volume doesn't really add a whole lot to Jos Geurts' methods, which you can read about for free on t'internet. Gravett does, though, put furnace filter pines in their rightful place as quickie background scenery.

Kevin,    Furnace filter pine's :P :  I was thinking of ordering the book ...but after hearing Furnace filter pines  :-X and they want funny money?? [No Thanks]

 Thought i had better post a few pics from Nick's book  ;)

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Elm Tree

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Silver Birch

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Craig, the conifer book is a lot better than you may think

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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2F1456.jpg&hash=f24e3042fc34fd06c091713b80e746acf58d44d3)

Although as far as I can tell he does not mention a scale I would hazard a guess from his last layouts that these are about 1/50 to 1/43.
I think the techniques would work for 1/35, will find out ::) but it might be pushing it for 1/24

Gordon,    The pine trees dont look bad ;) now that i see a bigger picture of them.  How is he makeing them? 

Craig,

Think it would be bit unfair on the author if I just gave away the details of his process , never mind copyright issues.

Send me your e-mail address and I will drop you a line with a quick summary on one of his trees which I hope will encourage you to buy the book.

Quote from: Mobilgas on November 02, 2012, 07:11:41 AM
Kevin,    Furnace filter pine's :P :  I was thinking of ordering the book ...but after hearing Furnace filter pines  :-X and they want funny money?? [No Thanks]

  No furnace filters were used in the making of trees in this book . He used scouring pads and old floor polishing pads . The effect is pretty good considering .

Actually, the scouring pad trick is quite good.  When we used to make solid surface tops for our customers, we polished them with varying grades of finer and finer pads.  After that, the pads went to my kitchen for a couple of weeks, and then to the shop.  By then they had lost most of their stiffness and were easier to shred into branch forms for trees.  Most of the finer ones are already a grey colour and didn't need to be painted prior to finishing.  3M makes them for the DIY home finisher to sand between coats of finish.  I still buy them at the local big box and still go from project to kitchen to shop.  My wife has called me a Scotch-Jew more then once for pinching pennies.  ::)

My college roommate was a war gamer and we had 2 7'X14' sand tables in the garage where he would construct battle fields on them.  He used scrap horse hair padding covered with ground foam to represent hedge and other vegetation.  Looked good at the time. 

I don't know how you Brits can tell one bill from another, they all have the Queen's smiling face on them.  Our dead president's are different on each bill and you can tell them by the picture.   ;D

Lawton

Quote from: Lawton Maner link=topic=733.msg37773#msg37773 date=

I don't know how you Brits can tell one bill from another, they all have the Queen's smiling face on them.  Our dead president's are different on each bill and you can tell them by the picture.   ;D

Lawton

I am going to resist the temptation but sure Nick will be able to explain  ;D

Quote from: gfadvance on November 06, 2012, 11:08:33 PM

Quote from: Lawton Maner link=topic=733.msg37773#msg37773 date=

I don't know how you Brits can tell one bill from another, they all have the Queen's smiling face on them.  Our dead president's are different on each bill and you can tell them by the picture.   ;D

Lawton

I am going to resist the temptation but sure Nick will be able to explain  ;D

  Words of one syllable needed here don't you think , Gordon?


Right here we go .

   On English banknotes you have the picture of our wonderful Queen ( don't you agree , Gordon ? ! ? ) and on the other side we have pictures of other people . At the moment there is Elizabeth Fry on the £5 note , Charles Darwin on the £10 note , Adam Smith on the £20 note and ( Gordon will confirm this as I've never seen one ) on the £50 note there is Matthew Boulton and James Watt . Now if this isn't identification enough each note is a different colour , blue for £5 , brown for £10 , a sort of purpley for £20 and red for £50 . Now if this still isn't identification enough for you all the notes are of different sizes , starting with the £5 being the smallest up to the largest , yes you've guessed it , £50 note . This last feature is particularly useful to blind people so that they can identify the notes by touch . You see , one American president looks much the same as another if you can't see .You do have blind people in America , don't you ? Not much concession to them then  .  Common sense really .

  There is a good book by Lee Childs that uses as it's central theme the fact that all the American banknotes are the same size and the baddies found a way of bleaching the colour off $1 notes and reprinting them as $100 notes . I won't tell you how it ends .

  Clear enough for you , Lawton ?

  Nick

Quote from: shropshire lad on November 07, 2012, 12:51:48 AM

Quote from: gfadvance on November 06, 2012, 11:08:33 PM

Quote from: Lawton Maner link=topic=733.msg37773#msg37773 date=

I don't know how you Brits can tell one bill from another, they all have the Queen's smiling face on them.  Our dead president's are different on each bill and you can tell them by the picture.   ;D

Lawton

I am going to resist the temptation but sure Nick will be able to explain  ;D

  Words of one syllable needed here don't you think , Gordon?


Right here we go .

   On English banknotes you have the picture of our wonderful Queen ( don't you agree , Gordon ? ! ? ) and on the other side we have pictures of other people . At the moment there is Elizabeth Fry on the £5 note , Charles Darwin on the £10 note , Adam Smith on the £20 note and ( Gordon will confirm this as I've never seen one ) on the £50 note there is Matthew Boulton and James Watt . Now if this isn't identification enough each note is a different colour , blue for £5 , brown for £10 , a sort of purpley for £20 and red for £50 . Now if this still isn't identification enough for you all the notes are of different sizes , starting with the £5 being the smallest up to the largest , yes you've guessed it , £50 note . This last feature is particularly useful to blind people so that they can identify the notes by touch . You see , one American president looks much the same as another if you can't see .You do have blind people in America , don't you ? Not much concession to them then  .  Common sense really .

  There is a good book by Lee Childs that uses as it's central theme the fact that all the American banknotes are the same size and the baddies found a way of bleaching the colour off $1 notes and reprinting them as $100 notes . I won't tell you how it ends .

  Clear enough for you , Lawton ?

  Nick

Anoher lesson in History.  I thought you only knew about bricks. :D

Jerry

But, Nick, you never explained why a one pound note doesn't actually weigh a pound. And why a 100 pound note weighs only fractionally more than a one pound note. I find all this business with queens and presidents and Darwin and colors and sizes very confusing. Personally, I advocate going on a chickenfat standard. -- ssuR

Quote from: TRAINS1941 on November 07, 2012, 05:42:36 AM

Quote from: shropshire lad on November 07, 2012, 12:51:48 AM

Quote from: gfadvance on November 06, 2012, 11:08:33 PM

Quote from: Lawton Maner link=topic=733.msg37773#msg37773 date=

I don't know how you Brits can tell one bill from another, they all have the Queen's smiling face on them.  Our dead president's are different on each bill and you can tell them by the picture.   ;D

Lawton

I am going to resist the temptation but sure Nick will be able to explain  ;D

  Words of one syllable needed here don't you think , Gordon?


Right here we go .

   On English banknotes you have the picture of our wonderful Queen ( don't you agree , Gordon ? ! ? ) and on the other side we have pictures of other people . At the moment there is Elizabeth Fry on the £5 note , Charles Darwin on the £10 note , Adam Smith on the £20 note and ( Gordon will confirm this as I've never seen one ) on the £50 note there is Matthew Boulton and James Watt . Now if this isn't identification enough each note is a different colour , blue for £5 , brown for £10 , a sort of purpley for £20 and red for £50 . Now if this still isn't identification enough for you all the notes are of different sizes , starting with the £5 being the smallest up to the largest , yes you've guessed it , £50 note . This last feature is particularly useful to blind people so that they can identify the notes by touch . You see , one American president looks much the same as another if you can't see .You do have blind people in America , don't you ? Not much concession to them then  .  Common sense really .

  There is a good book by Lee Childs that uses as it's central theme the fact that all the American banknotes are the same size and the baddies found a way of bleaching the colour off $1 notes and reprinting them as $100 notes . I won't tell you how it ends .

  Clear enough for you , Lawton ?

  Nick

Anoher lesson in History.  I thought you only knew about bricks. :D

Jerry

  History ? This is the here and now .

   Well , now you know that I'm not the " One Brick Pony" that you took me for . Ha , ha , ha .

Something for the bench;

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I use my chopper a lot and have never had a place for it.
Just look at the bench, I like most of you have several square feet of bench but only 6 square inches to actually "work"!  ;D
Often I am chopping with it on my lap!
Now I have a dedicated location and when not in use I swing it out of the way (somewhat)
I placed the leg right under the blade.
The leg is temporary until I turn a proper one. The hinge pin is removable in case I want to move it.
I also put a pin in the center hole of the hinge to take any load off the hinge.

-Mj

Okay, now that we understand the swinging Chopper platform ... what's with the bucket full of table legs set in red clay or mud?  And how often will you bang the Chopper attachment into the open drawers on the cart and knock all the stuff off the top.  ???  8)  (Does it show that I'm used to creating little disasters in the workplace?) -- Dallas

Ill take a shot at the bucket under Marty's bench ???     It's PVC tubes for holding strip wood and wire??

Ding ding ding!
We have a winner!
Yes, Craig - stripwood.
And they are stuck in a piece of plywood, with lots of holes.
The color is off due to taking the pic with my phone I guess.

As far as how often I bang and create a shitalance, your guess is as good as mine!
Plenty of room to open the drawers though.

-Mj

Dude,....I am so calling OSHA.  ;D

Just got the "chipping" edition of the AK
Weathering magazine!
Man is it thick!
Looks like another winner!
Mj

Quote from: Andi Little on October 08, 2012, 12:23:39 PM
Well here's a quick post - and a few snatched pic's. Kind of looking for a bit of advice too, not the smart alecky kind, but some genuine honest advice.
You see - I've finally managed to purloin myself a Lathe, not a fancy all singing all dancing mega lathe but a rather old and a bit tatty "watchmakers" lathe. I love the size of it as it fits really well into my available space, doesn't have to go outside and will do most stuff I can imagine doing on it??
Done a bit of research online and it appears to be a "wartime or shortly thereafter" BTM "Geneva" style (don't actually know what that means) But it comes boxed with a fair assortment of accessories, most of which I don't understand or can't figure out how they work - it looks as though a few bits have gone walkabouts but most appears to be there?
There was a lot of other bits chucked in the box and .... well, you best have a look at the pic's and see what you think to my haul?

Here you go then .........

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi180.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx248%2FAndismodelpages%2FLathe%2520stuff%2FLathe--Stuff.jpg&hash=f04f2e3b57c676bd77932a5f114c9f451e661490)
The "Haul".


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The Box.

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The basic Lathe on it's baseboard with motor.

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Other assorted tools.

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And a Dremel tool.

There is a great "mechanical coping saw" that I forgot to take a detailed pic of too - that looks pretty groovy.
Don't make me feel bad if this isn't the latest in tool fashion or it's not mega "the dogs dangleys" as I'm quite thrilled with my apparent recent good fortune - it pretty much is what I've been after for a long long time - and I don't think I was robbed either!

Would appreciate some positive opinions or advice on the usage of this kind of kit.

All the best ..........

Andi - Okay, a little slow to view this, but what you have there is some very expensive tooling especially if you were to 'try' and purchase individual items.
The lathe - used as per a standard lathe except collets are normally used rather than a chuck. For small scale brass and plastic I would definitely term that as "the bees knees".
I spent a few months sitting behind one similar during my intern time, the quickest and easiest way to get to know and learn is to just jump in - forget what all the books and taweb say, small scale machining is an art learned by doing. Those little machines can tolerate a fair bit of mistreatment (not recommended though  :D).
I think you should post some shots of your 'achievements' on it  ;)
Incidentally there are about +$600.00NZD (300Pound) just in the measuring gauges in the first photo.
Hope you are cranking it up regularly and making swarf  ;).

Thanks Roger ............

But posting a picture of my achievements is always going to be a problem, no matter how they're produced!

The lathe has become a rather cherished piece of kit - I really do enjoy fiddling around with it - and it gets used on a surprisingly regular basis. I am a little stymied by the fact that I don't have much in the way of material: so I'm tending to turn anything I need in styrene. Which I already knew - but soon had confirmed: is waaaay too soft, I might as well be trying to turn old chewing gum.

I need to get a hold of some acrylic rod, which has been described as sufficient for my needs (largely) and in truth after your revelations of the past few weeks I'm a bit loathe to post pictures of anything I've done!!!!  ;)

Here's a pic' though of something I'm trying to make at the minute, and the best can be said is that I turned the portholes out of styrene sheet - and learnt how to work with those "stepped collets" while I was at it.


(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi180.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx248%2FAndismodelpages%2FCanal%2520Tug%25201-35%2FCanaltug-12a_zpsef8ea9bc.jpg&hash=d9a12112d8221199e7e42473d9bffb63c356aea1)


In my own defence this is going to be a derelict so the lack of finesse is to be excused - which is just as well!!!


Thanks for you interest ............. Andi.

Andi, before you lash out and waste your hard earned readies on some VERY SOFT acrylic rod, have you ever had a look in a scrap bin of a Plastic Sign Maker. They have off-cuts from different thickness acrylic sheets, these off-cuts normally end up in the scrap bin bound for the tip, the acrylic in the sheets is far harder than what is in the acrylic rods.
The sheet material turns up far superior to that of the soft rods, the stuff in the rods can and will melt onto the lathe tool, where-as the sheet material just turns like magic.
You really have to do something stupid to ruin the sheet acrylic material.
If you can find some place local, go and have a talk to the owner and explain why you are after the sheet acrylic, he may even hand over a bit of material that is 25 mm thick for FREE.
Try it ( the sheet acrylic ) before you decide to buy any rod acrylic.

Oh, I do a tad of dumpster diving after working hours, and the rewards are amazing.
To turn the sheet acrylic, say it's 10mm thick, then cut a piece however long you want by 10 mm wide in a band saw set-up for cutting timber, into the four jaw with this 10 mm square bit and use the live centre to steady this bit and into it with the tooling, soon you'll have a 10 mm rod of the REAL good stuff.

regards  greenie

Forgot to add that the acrylic can be glued to polystyrene real easy, ask what the Plastic Sign Maker uses for gluing his stuff with, or even use a tad of good ole super glue to attach whatever to whatever.

Greenie, did you realize you no longer exist -- at least as an icon? Your little icon space now shows a white rectangle telling us that the Photobucket image no longer exists.

Suggestion to everybody: DO NOT use links when posting images. If you go back and read older threads you will find hundreds of missing images, all linked to sites that removed them or shut down altogether. It is pretty frustrating when you want to refer to an old thread and find only the text!

Russ

Styrene is actually very easy to machine cleanly, the trick to it is a slower RPM speed plus slow feed speed plus very sharp cutting tooling with a steep chip-breaker angle - a blunt cutting tool with a shallow chip-breaker is the cause for heat build-up = ugly parts. With sharp cutters you can increase the drive speed but still use a slow feed speed.
Ain't no shame in what you've produced there, at least you are spending time at the bench  ;) and enjoying the experience  8).

On acrylics, you want to look for cast material when machining......not extruded.  There is a large difference in working and finishing quality of the two.

Yes, cast acrylic is what/how the different thickness sheets are made.

Good stuff to work with, have a look at this 1/16th scale Detroit Diesel 6V-92T, all the bits of acrylic are machined from the sheet material.

regards  greenie


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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv629%2Fradish1us%2FBeenliegh%25202010%2F10520744_1415540542039737_322164530482647535_o_zpsc029a266.jpg&hash=3ba50b1b5b821a88becd3c11585768dd1bd7ff0e)

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Nice job on that engine. Got any pics of it painted?

I never got around to painting it, it's another failed project languishing in a deep dark box.


regards  greenie

Nice engine. You definitely should resurrect it......but then who am I to throw stones. :)

In a rather surprising move, due to some company restructuring and a merger, I received a substantial bonus on top of my normal sales-goals-based annual bonus. As in, around 22% of my annual salary. (In fact, so surprising, I was a more than a little thrown by it, and suspect my boss may have felt I was a bit under appreciative when in fact I was more in shock.)

I'm going to sit on it until my taxes are done, so I know exactly how much of it I get to keep. At which point, I'm getting me a 3D printer. Most likely the newer HD version of the B9 Creator. Even with my windfall, it's a lot of cash (about $4000) to spend at once on something for modelling, but I suspect I can make a good chunk of that back by printing for hire.

I have an idea about where some of your clients may come from. -- Russ

If you ever let them out of the corner.

I stumbled onto a used machinery dealer in Richmond, Va last month (or as many on this forum would say a second hand toy store) and came home last weekend with a 4 horsepower woodworking shaper.  May not be doing much modeling this summer as I will be working in 1:1  scale to finish a couple of projects around the house and make a piece of cherry furniture.

COOL!
Wish I had someplace like that near me..........um, may be not?...... ;)
Marty

Marty:

Come on over.  We can run up  to Richmond and you can help me move a Myford Lathe into my basement.  Then I'll really be set.

Santa dropped off one of the Chinese Mini Lathes which many have called "an assembled kit".  I'll try it as is and then see if it needs anything other then a tune up.