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1/16 scratched drill press

Started by lab-dad, March 20, 2012, 08:31:16 AM

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Yes Dallas, turned all the handles.
I do them on the lathe with files and set up gauges, especially the double ended one that needed to be the same on each end.



Just keeps getting better and better.

Why isn't there mouse-flavored cat food?
George Carlin


You only need to make the gears work once, video it happening, and then post it on You Tube, and then you can retire them for life... it's what all the cool kids are doing these days  ;D

This is really a great pice.  I was completely thrown off track when I saw your gear frame cut out... until I went back and understood that you were not going with the Camelback as shown in the first photos but the one in the kit example.  I was trying to cypher out how you were going to get that fiddle shape out of those parallel lines... "reading is fundamental"  ::)

While it looks beautiful, the fact that all of the bits traverse, elevate and turn is really, really impressive.  I doff my cap to you, sir.

"Did I mention this is a bad idea?"


Thanks Jerry & Paul.
Working in this scale i feel I "have" to make it is operational as possible.
I will look into the youtube stuff...
For now I managed to get the operational lever (I think) finished.
The lever causes the lower gears to mesh with the upper, basically turning the drill on and off.
While simple in appearance it was not quite...
The upper mount for the lever was fairly straightforward;
Drill a length of .125" tube and thread/solder in a 00-80 threaded rod.
The lower pivot was a little more work.
You see the large gear on the right must attach to the shaft to drive the smaller gear on the left.
However the collar with the stud (same as above) must allow the shaft to spin inside - just like above.
But, there must be a stop opposite the gear so the lever moves the gears (and shaft) in and out of mesh.
FWIW the lever is a piece of .093 brass rod.

I guess now I have to do the darn stepped pulleys...........

Malachi Constant

Oh hum ... more insane detail with tricky little bits.  ;)
-- Dallas Mallerich  (Just a freakin' newbie who stumbled into the place)
Email me on the "Contact Us" page at www.BoulderValleyModels.com


Nonetheless satisfactory. -- Russ

michael mott

So is this thing actually going to drill holes or wot?

Beautiful work Marty.



QuoteSo is this thing actually going to drill holes or wot?

Well that is the plan - sort of...
I am going to "chuck" a 1/16 bit in it when complete and hopefully spin the pulleys and drill a hole in a piece of wood.
That will be where the rubber meets the road.
Theoretically it should work and then I can say it is fully operational.
Will see if I can do the youtube ting with that too.......

Thank you!


Today was a good day; ;D

Largest pulley is .875" then .750" then .625" and smallest .500"
Time for a drink! ;)

michael mott

Ray Dunakin

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

Gordon Ferguson

Marty , nice work ................. always enjoy looking at your stuff

? why did you do all the pulleys as separate parts, would it not be easier and more prototypical just to have a stepped one piece

I know you just liked the challenge of producing exquisite small parts  :D 


Satisfactory. You really do have a talent for metal work. -- Russ


Making it look plausible, very good. Making it work, astounding. Nice job so far Marty.


Thanks Guys!!!!!

Good question!
On several prototype pictures i noticed the pulleys (or big one) being somewhat hollow, and "appearing" to be separate.
I have no way of really knowing if they were one piece or four - like mine.
In the overall scene it made sense to me to do it in 4 pieces for less material and time.
Turning down a piece of .875" aluminum rod would have taken a lot more time and the possibility of error.
As it was I did the large ones fancy and just sliced off the rest from appropriate sized stock and rounded them.
Hope this explains my logic.....