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Luke's Garage & Gas Station

Started by Stuart, June 29, 2022, 10:40:06 AM

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Bill Gill

It seems like the Franklin Mint saw the small angle piece in the photos I posted and turned it into a bigger, double pair of rods thatdid who knows what and that got misinterpreted, moved higher up and became the throttle/magneto advance control.

It still looks like a nice model. Didn't Chuck have to redo a number of things on his first Fordson?


Yes Bill  Chuck made many mods to his 1/16th scale Fordsons - They really look the part with fantastic detailing
Never Let someone who has done nothing tell you how to do anything
Stuart McPherson


Time for an update on the 55 gallon drums I began at the first of the year.  This older version of a drum is finished and will stand as a cast off piece of scrap at the back of my garage model.  I am pleased with how it turned out as I have not had a great deal of experience at aging and rusting methods.  Thank goodness for good reference photographs.

Old drum (small).jpg  

The second 55 gallon drum (kerosene drum) is on it's way to being completed.  The stand is finished and aged appropriately but the barrel itself is still needing some work with rust and kerosene streaks added around the fill opening at the top.  The brass valve is made up of brass tubing, strip stock, wire and a small piece of hexagonal rod all soldered together and inserted into the drum.  Soon I will add a scratch built padlock through the small hole in the valve handle. The "Kerosene Sold Here" sign will also receive a bit of aging.  The whole assembly will stand to the side of the gas station as pictured below.

Kerosene drum (small).jpg



Without know what scale you model in I would have guess it was 1:1 I was looking at. Great work.

New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds


I'm working in 1/12th scale or 1" = 12".


Part of the reason I have been slow to complete the two 55 gallon drums is because I got side tracked with wanting to complete the shingling of the garage roof.  The shingles are about 3/64" thick mahogany veneer cut to appropriate size and then glued in place individually.  The wood glue I used tended to warp the thin pieces of wood so I needed to hold flat each newly glued shingle with a small piece of scrap wood until the glue set.  A tedious and long process as you can imagine.

In addition, I planned a section of the roof to be removable so the interior of the model could be viewed.  This required a little planning and forethought when laying out the shingles so that the removable section was not overly noticeable when the removable piece was in its closed position.

Once all shingles were in place the weathering process began.  The end goal was to create an aged cedar shingle roof.  This I accomplished with thinned brown and black ink washes, thinned gray acrylic paint, weathering pastels and even colored pencils.  The end results can be seen in the photos below.

Shed dormer 2.jpg

Closed roof 2.jpg

Open roof 2.jpg   



I'm no wood worker, but my vague understanding is that sizing the veneer first with dilute glue would help prevent it warping once shingles were cut.

Lawrence in NZ


Hi, Stuart how are you doing?
Love the kitchen detail. the blinds and cord are great.


Extremely adequate in every respect.

Next time you shingle a roof Lawrence's suggestion might work or you might try a non-water base glue or maybe 3M peel-and-stick double side tape.


Bill Gill

Stuart, You posted lots of good stuff to catch up on. The oil drum looks good. The valve on the second drum looks really good as does the weathering of the wooden stand - VERY convincing.

Likewise, there's lots of cedar shingles around here and yours model them just right. I wonder if double sided adhesive would make the shingles look too thick? I've had pretty good luck using acrylic matte medium to glue thin stuff. It seems to have less of a tendency to warp things.


3M 467-MP peel-and-stick tape is 0.006-inch thick, negligible for 1:12 shingles. You might use slightly thinner wood or paper if if you model in HO or even 1:48.

For glue, I use Walthers Goo, a rubber based adhesive I think the Goodyear tire company developed. It bonds anything to anything, really works well for all kinds of situations, and lasts virtually forever. It can be stringy, though, so spend about 15 minutes practicing how best to apply it. I use it extensively when working with cardstock because water based adhesives can result in warped parts. You can roll off any excess with a toothpick.



Thanks all for the useful tips. If I ever venture into the shingle laying arena again I'll keep these ideas in mind.

Ray Dunakin

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World


Finally finished my kerosene drum and stand.  Everything here is scratch built including the drip bucket hanging from the spigot.  All I need to add is the smell of spilled kerosene (or maybe not). 

This has been a fun build. It kind of grew on me and prompted more detail than I had originally planned but, I think the extra effort has paid off.

Next item of business will need to be the lubester standing just to the left of the kerosene drum. 

Kerosene drum 1.jpg

Kerosene drum 2.jpg

Drum in place.jpg