1/35 Paper Structure Vignette

[Mr Potato Head]

Marc
What about one of those wordworking corner chisels? for squaring up corners? Just turn it at 45 degrees ?
MPH

[eTraxx]

Followed the link. Thought Dallas might find this interesting ..

http://www.ks-modelleisenbahnen.de/html/boulder_valley_models.html

[fspg2]

Hi davej,

I asked the German dealer for he postal charges to UK.

He (Kalle Stümpfl) told me the price for Europa: Until 1kg (it´s called: Maxi-Brief): 7,00 €.

Each of this 250gr boxes  ,,Landschafts-Bau-Kleber" is be priced at: 5,00€.

Frithjof

[Gordon Ferguson]

Neat work Marc,

just to help you focus I have prioritised your list so that you can start working in the right order for me ;-

1. Metal Gutters & Downspouts
2. Old Concrete Slabs
3. Dirt, Vegetation (including some grass/weeds)
4. Hinges and other misc hardware
5. Asphalt Roofing
6. Wood Doors
7. Steel Posts
8. Clay "Barrel" roof tiles
9. Sheet Metal Flashing

Now look forward to the SBS's   

[Malachi Constant]

Well-played Gordon!  Perhaps you should have put "bricks" at the top of the list, just to butter him up a bit.    -- Dallas

[Chuck Doan]

I want to see the paper dirt.

[Gordon Ferguson]

Dallas, don't think "buttering up" Marc would work, more likely to respond to straight talking and a direct request .... I hope.


Anyway I have found a secret source of 1/35 bricks, I just need to build the flaming wall now

[davej]

Hi davej,

I asked the German dealer for he postal charges to UK.

He (Kalle Stümpfl) told me the price for Europa: Until 1kg (it´s called: Maxi-Brief): 7,00 €.

Each of this 250gr boxes  ,,Landschafts-Bau-Kleber" is be priced at: 5,00€.

Frithjof

Thanks! You are the best.

[finescalerr]

Two very good ideas!

Marc, would it be possible to cut L-shape end bricks from a thicker material rather than to fold a thinner straight/scribed piece? If you can find the right weight of chip board, construction could go a little faster. That might be a workable variation of Frithjof's idea.

Since a laser allows more "artistic freedom" than CNC, it might even be possible to draw interlocking brick panels (emulating Frithjof's machined walls) but you could draw irregularities into your bricks.

This thread has really got me thinking about production techniques ....

Russ

[marc_reusser]

Wow! What a bunch of great info and ideas. Really glad to see all the discussion, input and thoughts being contributed.

To answer a few questions:

Did I understand correctly, that the laser cutted stones are connected to each other by small bridges (half height)?

Yes, the bricks are connected by a tab (bridge) for the purpose of the laser cutting, the top of this is scribed, (not very deep...I am trying to get them to go deeper if possible), mainly as a cutting guide when removing the bricks, and to try an keep the top layer from peeling or lifting in that area during handling of the sheet, and cutting/removal of the individual bricks.

Do you want to grout the tiles later on?

Yes, I will be grouting them...I hhave been playing around with two materials so far; Liqutex Modeling Paste tinted with acrylic coloring, and lightweight wall patching compound; each has its pluses and minuses...my biggest gripe on them is that when cleaning the excess from the brick surface after application, the process of cleaning creates a slight sheen/lustre on the brick surface, and so far, various matte finishes applied afterward have not helped much, or they take away the original surface individuality of the bricks, and make it appear too homogenous.

I really like your idea of using a powder, and the specific adhesive you have referenced. I was going to tre a powdered approach, but was thinking of using a syringe to carefully wick/apply very dilluted matte medium into the joints;  but the problem with matte medium, as you mentioned, is that it does slightly darken the coloring...so if when doing this any gets on the brick surface it will show.

....have you tried this method - http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1424.0
The walls slot together at the corners but done with a CNC machine instead of laser though

...would it be possible to cut L-shape end bricks from a thicker material rather than to fold a thinner straight/scribed piece? If you can find the right weight of chip board, construction could go a little faster. That might be a workable variation of Frithjof's idea.

Both these questions are sim and sort of relate to the same issue, and have some iof the following problems associated with it:

Since we are not talking about a cutting shop with the skill and expertise and eye that Dave at VectorCut has (nor is this shop likely that interested to try too much, and their machine is probably not as refined); I do not see it possible to create a whole half/depth or so scribed sheet of brick pattern...at least not in this scale (their min. parallel line/cut spacing is 1/16"). Then there is the second issue, of board thickness; in order to get a decent looking end width of a brick for an interlocking wall corner at this scale, the board would need to be at least 1/8" (.125") thick....I am told he can cut 1/8, but it takes far longer, and this becomes quite expensive.......BUT....the much bigger problem than expense is the way the laser beam works (is shaped), as I understand it when laser cutting the line is not perfectly straight, the laser has a focal point/center,  (which in my case is in the center of the board thickness), and the beam above and below that point is "V" shaped.....think of an "X" with where the lines cross being the focal point....so when cutting thick material, there is actually a bevel in each direction, on the finished cut edge....this would definitely not be acceptable for a brick face; if doing interlocking ends, one might be able to trim and mitigate this post cutting, but if trying to do an 'L' shaped corner brick, I see no way to clean this up and make it look right.

Lastly...I didn't want a "sheet" of bricks that can simply be glued down, I really wanted the ability to have and create some unevenness/irregularity/randomness in the wall (especially since the reference image I am working from has this)....and as Frithjof mentioned, that is difficult to do when machining a sheet.

The images I am using as reference and guide can be seen here. They are from a workshop area I photographed in Berlin last year.
http://public.fotki.com/mreusser/berlin-workshops/

Marc

[marc_reusser]

Gordon,
I will get right on that....just as soon a the list reorganiztion is checked by the production personell, authorized by the labor committe, approved by the lawyers, and meets all the environmental and ocuppational safety mandates. 

Marc

[marc_reusser]

Marc
What about one of those wordworking corner chisels? for squaring up corners? Just turn it at 45 degrees ?
MPH

Umm...potato dude...it's a laminated paper edge.....good luck with that.    

Seriously though, I personally don't see this working, let alone the difficult in gettin the chisel aligned close enough to the remaining surface edge, and then cutting straight down, the force would deform and likely delaminate the paper long before the chisel got even part way through.


Marc

[Mr Potato Head]

just a thought
I was only trying to help
Can the laser cut from the back, and leave two registration marks?
MPH

[mad gerald]

... me again ...

Today I managed to get some of these rectangular punch outs out of the spiral binding machine ...the colour depends on what you put in - in this case simple white paper, reddish plastic sheet and transparent plastic sheet ... for demonstration glued to a gray sheet of paper.

Imagine punch outs of gray card board/chip board with a thickness of 1,5mm instead the paper ones shown below ...

The punch outs have a slight irregularity along the edges which could make them probably appear more "natural" when coloured and weathered.

They measure approx. 8 x 3,25 mm, which means that they would fit exact neither 1/22,5 scale nor 1/35 scale, referring to the dimension of one common German brick standard (240 x 110 x 70 mm) ... but may be, you have different brick dimensions/standards in your country(ies) ...  

Otherwise we can discard this opportunity ... and I'm supposed to stand in one corner ...

[shropshire lad]

Marc ,

  Good luck with your experiment , I think I'll stick with the "Nutters" way . It looks a bugger sight easier to do .

  Your internal corner looks a bit funny . The bond has gone all to pot , or am I missing something ?

  When you give it up as a waste of time get in touch and I'll send you some proper bricks .

 

Gordon ,

  Looking forward to seeing what you come up with , with your secretly sourced bricks !

  Nick

ps . Now that I'm the proud owner of "The Oily One" ( 1/12th scale critter under repair) I have been thinking about building a small display diorama using suitable scale bricks and tiles . The first think to do will be to make a scale brick trowel to lay them with . And a working 1/12th scale concrete  mixer to mix the mortar in !

  Will the madness never end ?