I want to say right from the beginning, that I am not as "nutters" as Nick O., or as exacting as Frithjof. ;D
This project is all about experimenting/playing around with paper. I don't know how much of the project I will or should show, as I want to use it for Russ' upcoming mag build....if he wants more here I will post, otherwise I will save them for later.
On my way out of town last week I dropped a file off a local graphics shop (PenPoint Graphics) that does laser cutting. I had never used them, and I figured from the start that they weren't going to be a "Vectorcut"......but I wanted to see if I could use them for small, quick, stuff, thus giving me another resource in my toolbox.
I picked up the sheet on Saturday, on my way back into town, and here is the result:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FBrickShed%2FBrickShed_1.jpg&hash=e471a4eb31f36223e82143761b7e4fc015bbaf1e)
Unfortunately there was some sort of misunderstanding or something between the cutter and myself, regarding the width of the cut/burnout line, and tolerances needed in the CAD file.....so the individual bricks came out about .015" (.381 mm) too large in each dimension. I know this doesn't sound like much, but when doing bricks...despite there being various sizes of bricks manufactured....it is visually noticeable....and feels "off".
But, still hoping to salvage the sheet of cut parts, I went ahead and gave it a try anyhow. This photo shows the individual cut bricks pieces applied to the substructure (grout spacing is +/- .010 ; .254mm). All the corners were made from special/longer pieces (can be seen at right in above image), which were back-cut/back-mitred and folded, to form the corner brick. I used an Xacto to nick and damage some of the brick edges and corners.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FBrickShed%2FBrickShed_2.jpg&hash=bf0614122f24988c170a00074d1d7928c77d821e)
The LP's thought a mix of Tamiya acrylics (Brown, XF-10 and Yellow, XF-3) for a base coat might help me feel better about the wrong sized bricks.... not likely. :)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FBrickShed%2FBrickShed_3.jpg&hash=039f4c8d09cc5fb3d843195cd931db990e4d4816)
.....so now it looks like it's back to the CAD file and then back to the laser cutter, for another try.
Marc
What kind of paper is this? Or how thick is it? Why didn't the bricks fall out after being cut? Is there a sticky backing, like some of the P.E. Parts out there? How thick can a laser cutter cut on average?
I like the idea! And the corners are cool, how did you do that ???
Thanks
MPH
Looks very promising, great idea on the folded outside corner bricks.
Randy
Thanks Randy. Figured it was the only way to go if I wanted proper looking corners.
Gil:...questions, questions, questtions.... ;)
1.) The paper is 3/32 (.055+) "Chip-Board"....the same stuff the back of writing pads are made of.
2.) They dont fall out, because they are connected by small tabs, where there is only a score and not a through-cut,
that need to be cut to remove/seperate them.
3.) No, there is no sticky backing (not something offered by the cutting shop...or at least I havent asked)...they are
glued in place using Elmers yellow carpenters glue.
4.) 1/8" is the thickest paper that this printer/shop will/prefers to cut.
5.) Here is how the corners were done. The "wedge" is removed/cut from the side with the scribe mark. (the scribe
mark serves as an "eye-balling guide" when making the cuts.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FBrickShed%2FBrickShed_4.jpg&hash=9fcf4ba00c79febfcf9ece0059e770a650e5419f)
Marc
Interesting experiment Marc... it shows some promise once you sort out the size issue.
Paul
I think the finished wall (with the proper bricks) will be all but indistinguishable from actual miniature bricks. It seems pretty exacting and tedious to notch the back of every corner piece. Does that go more quickly than it would seem? -- Russ
HA!...none of this goes quickly, or isn't tedious....but if it did/weren't where would the fun be!? ;D Out of the twelve corner pieces made so far I only cut through one during the backcut...and had to do a new one...not bad odds, (But if someone knows a better way, I would be glad to hear it)...we'll see how I feel about it once I have done the 100 or so corner pieces I will likely need....especially snce the new ones will be smaller! :P :-X
A few of the things I hope to be tackling with paper in this project are:
Clay "Barrel" roof tiles
Metal Gutters & Downspouts
Old Concrete Slabs
Sheet Metal Flashing
Steel Posts
Wood Doors
Hinges and other misc hardware
Asphaly Roofing
Dirt
Vegetation (including some grass/weeds)
...and whatever else pops up.
Heck, I have till August! ;D ;D
Marc, have you tried this method - http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1424.0
The walls slot together at the corners but done with a CNC machine instead of laser though.
Marc, I am excited about your experiment!
Time is relative, if our hobby is fun!
A clear advantage of your method is that you can produce even very "dancing" wall series. The walls I´ve milled looks very straight. To get an irregularity, it requires more rework with a file.
Did I understand correctly, that the laser cutted stones are connected to each other by small bridges (half height)?
Do you want to grout the tiles later on?
For this I sprinkled some edges that were the "rain" exposed to a mixture of greenish vegetation remnants powder. Then a gray tile mortar from the hardware store came to use. For one, he fills the gaps better than the color pigments, on the other hand it is dusty and beautiful covers the stones with a milky - grayish layer.
Alter_Lagerschuppen_198 (fspg2)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8054%2F2903Alter_Lagerschuppen_198.jpg&hash=64b51a7508d12c885fc649d4eb992218aa43ab9f)
Alter_Lagerschuppen_199 (fspg2)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8054%2F2903Alter_Lagerschuppen_199.jpg&hash=6be37b43751a9a6805c4a8c2cb1bdbe8d0f0c75f)
As the stone surface is not abrasive at the moment, the appearance can be easily variieret by using kitchen paper or fingers (use rubber gloves).
Finally, I sprayed everything with a varnish that does not darken the original color after drying.
If I don´t like it, a new layer comes...
@Ian
Here's an example in scale 1:45. The corners are lasered, like I did with my milling machine:
http://www.ndetail.de/spur-0/modell/eisenbahner-wohnhaus-5-650.jpg
http://www.ndetail.de/spur-0/modell/eisenbahner-wohnhaus-3-650.jpg
... only is faster than laser milling: http://vimeo.com/3092137
Frithjof
Hi Frithjof. Are the examples of the building being constructed in 1:45 scale?
Does the powder work better than mixing the mortar with water first and pressing it into the gaps with your fingers (my method). I think I will try a dry application followed by water on the next building to see if that creates a better finish. I'm too embarrassed by all this fine scale wonder on this forum to post my attempts!
Sorry for the (slight) hijack Marc!!!
... great idea, Marc ... ;D
I like this kind of chip board (in German: Graupappe) and do often use it for my mock up buildings ...
So I came recently across the idea, if it would be possible to use "the scrap"/the punched out rectangular things from these machines used for plastic spiral binding (http://www.copierworld.co.in/product_info.php?cat=2&ssss=SPIRAL%20BINDING%20MACHINE#) for brick imitation ... in case of using chip board with a thickness 1,5mm, which seems to be similar to yours with .055 ...
Not quite sure, if there are different sizes, but the punched out things I've seen seem to fit 1/35 scale, but would be too tiny to match 1/22,5 ... ??? ::)
Kind regards
Hi Ian,
for myself I build in scale 1:22.5. The links are 1:45.
The best experience I have done with dry dusting. Finally, I give a mixture of "landscape construction adhesive" vanish with a small flower-vaporizer. A mix in 1:12 - to 1:15 with water is sufficient.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8398%2F2903Alter_Lagerschuppen_200a.jpg&hash=6f6477663627469e704dfe743cd69c739d67c7d9)
This glue is here (http://www.ks-modelleisenbahnen.de/html/kontakt.html) available. It has the advantage that it doesn´t becomes darker after drying (in opposite with mix of wood glue + water + dish soap) . Moreover, it can still subsequently be treated with stains, because it does not seal the surfaces.
@ Gerald
For 1:22,5 I've cut stripes from 3mm thick MDF in 9,48 mm thickness. Out of it 4.74 mm stones. If you want, I can cut a few stones.
... and now I am quiet - awaiting further reports from you, Marc!
Frithjof
This is interesting....just in time for my 1:35 project. ;D
Jacq
Anyone recommend UK suppliers?
Yes, interesting. I was planning to print some brick piers and maybe a chimney with gaps for mortar. This looks promising too.
Marc
What about one of those wordworking corner chisels? for squaring up corners? Just turn it at 45 degrees ?
MPH
Followed the link. Thought Dallas might find this interesting .. :)
http://www.ks-modelleisenbahnen.de/html/boulder_valley_models.html
Hi davej,
I asked the German dealer for he postal charges to UK.
He (Kalle Stümpfl) told me the price for Europa: Until 1kg (it´s called: Maxi-Brief): 7,00 €.
Each of this 250gr boxes ,,Landschafts-Bau-Kleber" is be priced at: 5,00€.
Frithjof
Neat work Marc,
just to help you focus I have prioritised your list so that you can start working in the right order for me ;-
1. Metal Gutters & Downspouts
2. Old Concrete Slabs
3. Dirt, Vegetation (including some grass/weeds)
4. Hinges and other misc hardware
5. Asphalt Roofing
6. Wood Doors
7. Steel Posts
8. Clay "Barrel" roof tiles
9. Sheet Metal Flashing
Now look forward to the SBS's ;)
Well-played Gordon! Perhaps you should have put "bricks" at the top of the list, just to butter him up a bit. ;) -- Dallas
I want to see the paper dirt.
Dallas, don't think "buttering up" Marc would work, more likely to respond to straight talking and a direct request .... I hope.
Anyway I have found a secret source of 1/35 bricks, I just need to build the flaming wall now ;D
Quote from: fspg2 on May 24, 2011, 10:06:06 AM
Hi davej,
I asked the German dealer for he postal charges to UK.
He (Kalle Stümpfl) told me the price for Europa: Until 1kg (it´s called: Maxi-Brief): 7,00 €.
Each of this 250gr boxes ,,Landschafts-Bau-Kleber" is be priced at: 5,00€.
Frithjof
Thanks! You are the best.
Two very good ideas!
Marc, would it be possible to cut L-shape end bricks from a thicker material rather than to fold a thinner straight/scribed piece? If you can find the right weight of chip board, construction could go a little faster. That might be a workable variation of Frithjof's idea.
Since a laser allows more "artistic freedom" than CNC, it might even be possible to draw interlocking brick panels (emulating Frithjof's machined walls) but you could draw irregularities into your bricks.
This thread has really got me thinking about production techniques ....
Russ
Wow! What a bunch of great info and ideas. Really glad to see all the discussion, input and thoughts being contributed.
To answer a few questions:
QuoteDid I understand correctly, that the laser cutted stones are connected to each other by small bridges (half height)?
Yes, the bricks are connected by a tab (bridge) for the purpose of the laser cutting, the top of this is scribed, (not very deep...I am trying to get them to go deeper if possible), mainly as a cutting guide when removing the bricks, and to try an keep the top layer from peeling or lifting in that area during handling of the sheet, and cutting/removal of the individual bricks.
QuoteDo you want to grout the tiles later on?
Yes, I will be grouting them...I hhave been playing around with two materials so far; Liqutex Modeling Paste tinted with acrylic coloring, and lightweight wall patching compound; each has its pluses and minuses...my biggest gripe on them is that when cleaning the excess from the brick surface after application, the process of cleaning creates a slight sheen/lustre on the brick surface, and so far, various matte finishes applied afterward have not helped much, or they take away the original surface individuality of the bricks, and make it appear too homogenous.
I really like your idea of using a powder, and the specific adhesive you have referenced. I was going to tre a powdered approach, but was thinking of using a syringe to carefully wick/apply very dilluted matte medium into the joints; but the problem with matte medium, as you mentioned, is that it does slightly darken the coloring...so if when doing this any gets on the brick surface it will show.
Quote....have you tried this method - http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1424.0
The walls slot together at the corners but done with a CNC machine instead of laser though
Quote...would it be possible to cut L-shape end bricks from a thicker material rather than to fold a thinner straight/scribed piece? If you can find the right weight of chip board, construction could go a little faster. That might be a workable variation of Frithjof's idea.
Both these questions are sim and sort of relate to the same issue, and have some iof the following problems associated with it:
Since we are not talking about a cutting shop with the skill and expertise and eye that Dave at VectorCut has (nor is this shop likely that interested to try too much, and their machine is probably not as refined); I do not see it possible to create a whole half/depth or so scribed sheet of brick pattern...at least not in this scale (their min. parallel line/cut spacing is 1/16"). Then there is the second issue, of board thickness; in order to get a decent looking end width of a brick for an interlocking wall corner at this scale, the board would need to be at least 1/8" (.125") thick....I am told he can cut 1/8, but it takes far longer, and this becomes quite expensive.......BUT....the much bigger problem than expense is the way the laser beam works (is shaped), as I understand it when laser cutting the line is not perfectly straight, the laser has a focal point/center, (which in my case is in the center of the board thickness), and the beam above and below that point is "V" shaped.....think of an "X" with where the lines cross being the focal point....so when cutting thick material, there is actually a bevel in each direction, on the finished cut edge....this would definitely not be acceptable for a brick face; if doing interlocking ends, one might be able to trim and mitigate this post cutting, but if trying to do an 'L' shaped corner brick, I see no way to clean this up and make it look right.
Lastly...I didn't want a "sheet" of bricks that can simply be glued down, I really wanted the ability to have and create some unevenness/irregularity/randomness in the wall (especially since the reference image I am working from has this)....and as Frithjof mentioned, that is difficult to do when machining a sheet.
The images I am using as reference and guide can be seen here. They are from a workshop area I photographed in Berlin last year.
http://public.fotki.com/mreusser/berlin-workshops/ (http://public.fotki.com/mreusser/berlin-workshops/)
Marc
Gordon,
I will get right on that....just as soon a the list reorganiztion is checked by the production personell, authorized by the labor committe, approved by the lawyers, and meets all the environmental and ocuppational safety mandates. ;D
Marc
Quote from: Mr Potato Head on May 24, 2011, 08:54:04 AM
Marc
What about one of those wordworking corner chisels? for squaring up corners? Just turn it at 45 degrees ?
MPH
Umm...potato dude...it's a laminated paper edge.....good luck with that. ;) ;D
Seriously though, I personally don't see this working, let alone the difficult in gettin the chisel aligned close enough to the remaining surface edge, and then cutting straight down, the force would deform and likely delaminate the paper long before the chisel got even part way through.
Marc
just a thought ::)
I was only trying to help :-\
Can the laser cut from the back, and leave two registration marks?
MPH
... me again ...
Today I managed to get some of these rectangular punch outs out of the spiral binding machine ...the colour depends on what you put in - in this case simple white paper, reddish plastic sheet and transparent plastic sheet ... for demonstration glued to a gray sheet of paper.
Imagine punch outs of gray card board/chip board with a thickness of 1,5mm instead the paper ones shown below ...
The punch outs have a slight irregularity along the edges which could make them probably appear more "natural" when coloured and weathered.
They measure approx. 8 x 3,25 mm, which means that they would fit exact neither 1/22,5 scale nor 1/35 scale, referring to the dimension of one common German brick standard (240 x 110 x 70 mm) ... but may be, you have different brick dimensions/standards in your country(ies) ... ???
Otherwise we can discard this opportunity ... and I'm supposed to stand in one corner ... 8)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F05-02-mauersteine-aus-karton%2F05-02-0002-mauersteine-aus-karton-p1030052.jpg&hash=bce1525cb9bfbd4d3c08c7890fde51fd7e64241a)
Marc ,
Good luck with your experiment , I think I'll stick with the "Nutters" way . It looks a bugger sight easier to do .
Your internal corner looks a bit funny . The bond has gone all to pot , or am I missing something ?
When you give it up as a waste of time get in touch and I'll send you some proper bricks .
Gordon ,
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with , with your secretly sourced bricks !
Nick
ps . Now that I'm the proud owner of "The Oily One" ( 1/12th scale critter under repair) I have been thinking about building a small display diorama using suitable scale bricks and tiles . The first think to do will be to make a scale brick trowel to lay them with . And a working 1/12th scale concrete mixer to mix the mortar in !
Will the madness never end ?
... suitable scale bricks in different scales can be purchased here: http://english.miniaturziegel.de/bricks.xhtml (http://english.miniaturziegel.de/bricks.xhtml)
... but making an educated guess - this source has most certainly been already mentioned in some other thread?
Kind regards
Marc - have you looked on here? http://www.mk35.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=12&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&lang=en
Czech supplier - English language website. Interesting stuff for you?
QuoteCzech supplier
Ian, you are refering to the french MK35 site.
Jacq
Ian; I am familiar with that site, they do have interesting stuff.
Gerald; thanks, that is a good link as well. I would be interested in seeing what finished wall of those would look like. I may have to see if there are any in the rubbish bin next time I am at a copy/printing shop where they do comb binding.
Nick; please do tell what I did wrong with the inside corner (am curious, not being sarcastic), I alternated the brick lap, and thought I matched the reference photos quality of construction
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages19.fotki.com%2Fv678%2Fphotos%2F2%2F921732%2F8934705%2FDSCN5441-vi.jpg&hash=f6cbce6a7ece28f92da9ee183fc96e980a382396)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages9.fotki.com%2Fv131%2Fphotos%2F2%2F921732%2F8934705%2FDSCN5444-vi.jpg&hash=16d993055735f20f4225fa56d04a7490763122ee)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv308%2Fphotos%2F2%2F921732%2F8934705%2FDSCN5454-vi.jpg&hash=da53b7be102312e0779960134850b0184ec2c296)
This project has to be completely built from paper, as those are the basic rules for the "challenge" in Russ's mag called "Build a Paper Shed".....I am (as usual for one that doesn't play well with others) trying to stretch and slightly distort it by only doing a falsefront/vignette, and pushing it to try and prove to myself that I can create a scene out of paper that will look up to par, or near, as good as one built using the typical combination of materials like styrene, plaster, scale bricks, wood, etc. It is for me an exercise on building my skill with the material, and learning something new.
Marc
Marc,
It seems to me that you changed the bond on the main bit of wall from ,essentially, half bond to quarter bond when coming out of the internal corner . If you had moved the bricks on the even rows (second , fourth , sixth etc. from bottom ) further into the corner , or cut them shorter , the bond would have matched the other face .
I would have also liked to see you continue the header courses around the two corners . This would have made a more interesting wall . I find stretcher bond so boring .
Of course , I didn't know that you were using these photos for reference when I made my comment so what you have done may well match up with the brickwork in the photos ( I can't really see that well) .My comment was just an observation put in my usual delicate way !
Still ,when it comes to brickwork , anything goes . There will be a prototype for every eventuality ,
Nick
Have you tried Lego Bricks?
To mount the stones easier (see link by mad gerald) I had milled a mounting plate in which the individual tiles were glued.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F7452%2F2903Br_ckenkopf_Unterbau_1.jpg&hash=5cafb709aab91cc579641212d2a3bddd38dee0bc)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F7452%2F2903Br_ckenkopf_Unterbau_2.jpg&hash=eb652df785750088af77ddf03a652d52007f9d76)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F7452%2F2903Brueckenkopf_gefraest_0.jpg&hash=32713ee6ee55cb06d94b6004940d1b04d67c5691)
In the original bridgehead, the stones were not dance so much.
In addition, the distance between the rows of blocks with 0.8 mm was still too big!
I like the machined version better for this purpose.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F7452%2F2903Brueckenkopf_gefraest_5.jpg&hash=a26d3fa6bcab935a72d9ff226dcbcb9eb85fe264)
Model parts are put together only loosely. The corners have to be reworked.
Here again the direct comparison of the original bricks masonry wall
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F7452%2F2903tanzende_Mauerreihe.jpg&hash=18846e99969d46ac7f15706528fa7706d7cbcd56)
The individual stones are often curved slightly due to the manufacturing process.
and the milled version.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F7452%2F2903gefraeste_Mauerreihe.jpg&hash=b04beb9b2bd84e762213437f474dec511adc9345)
The grooves are now only 0.5 mm thick, with the same stone size, which will benefit the whole picture.
Der Maßstab ist 1:22,5.
... to be honest, I dreaded also about to install more than 25,000 stones.
That's why I finally decided on the milling machine.
That doesn´t mean that I will make no further attempts with single brick built.
Frithjof,
I think the end result of your milled bricks looks great. it reaaly feels and looks like a well built brick wall. I also like that you added some surface nicks and texture, makes it almost indistinguishable from a photo of the real thing.
Marc
Until I read the text, I thought Frithjof's milled brickwork was actually 1:1 scale individual bricks.
And that brings up an interesting situation: Most brick walls I have seen, even old ones, are pretty well built with an essentially level surface. Sometimes the mortar erodes or the bricks are cracked or chipped but the brick faces are on the same plane. Frithjof's wall looks very typical of that and, depending on the coloration he chose, could represent a wall anywhere from 30 to 120 years old.
Other brick walls have more "character" -- protruding bricks, broken ones, bricks whose faces are slightly below the surface -- more like what Marc seems to want.
I suspect a laser or CNC mill could mimic either given the right "artwork" but individual bricks might better represent a poorly built or eroded wall. The trick would be to combine both approaches to reduce the need for hundreds of individual pieces. Does anyone have a brilliant idea?
Russ
I picked up the re-cut bricks today (the top sheet is the new ones). I made some changes to the layout before re-cutting, such as making the connecting tabs smaller, and having a couple of rows of brick "ends" included.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FBrickShed%2FBrickShed_8.jpg&hash=6866e81bc34dc5f42fbbb57d348270ecf36f737d)
Not being in the mood to build the building wall substructure, I gerabbed a sheet of some kind of art paper I had laying around, that was the proper thickness, and made the couple of clay barrel roof tiles I wanted for the scene.
Left to Right: Shape as cut from the paper, formed tile, two tiles with base color coats.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FBrickShed%2FBrickShed_5.jpg&hash=feef245f82cb55fa07d8e1ea5fdbfd7b96a69b1a)
To form the tile, the cut piece was soaked in a mix of water and matte-medium, till thoroughly wet, then formed over and old paint brush, and dried with a blow-dryer. Once dry, the underside was coated with a layer of ACC, to help it keep its shape. Once ACC was dru a small hole/slot was drilled in the top of the narrow end of the tile (this is where the wire hanger would be installed to hold the tile in place on the roof).
The four finished tiles with some moss and crud (they came from the north side of the roof ;D).
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2Fmworks%2FBrickShed%2FBrickShed_7.jpg&hash=18c64e69de8df672864e117f7b5984c8d6ee788f)
I should probably have used a smother and less porus paper for these...but this is what was within reach and was the proper thickness.
Marc
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 25, 2011, 03:30:34 PM
Gerald; thanks, that is a good link as well. I would be interested in seeing what finished wall of those would look like ...
... here is an example of a wall of the first chicken shack, structurally finished, but no mortar, no weathering and no weathered wooden beams (representing the framework) added:
approx. 200 bricks (felt like I had placed about 750 bricks), each one individual treated (surface nicks/texture) and glued in place ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2011%2F10%2F07-01-0001-alter-schuppen.jpg&hash=015944ab3a06d8c9dc194dea162dc447b10e9396)
Gerald,
The shed looks good, but I was wondering about a wall made of "bricks" made from the punched hole pieces. :)
Marc
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 26, 2011, 02:02:25 AM
The shed looks good, but I was wondering about a wall made of "bricks" made from the punched hole pieces. :)
... :-[ ... ooops - sorry for my misunderstanding (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F8168%2F3520bricked.gif&hash=9fe10361c7e252bc9b43f21eaf367ba358c343f7) ... did not collect or punched respectively any gray "chip board bricks" yet ...
More bricks for thought. A range of bricks available from Richard Stacy Miniature Brick and Stone Products - www.richardstacey.com he offers an excellent mail order service and supplies bricks in 1/12th - 1/19th and 1/24th scales. The bricks are easy to cut and I have used cut down 1/24 brick slips for 1/35th scale.Another useful product he supplies is "Versi Slips" a card that is brick textured on both sides it come in brick sizes for 1/12th - 1/19th and 1/24th is easy to cut and resize to other scales . Corner bricks and Stone are available in all scales.Photo 1 shows 1/19th scale (16mm to the Foot)
More Bricks showing 1/24th and 1/19th scale
1/24th brick slips
Bricks on left 1/24th -Centre 1/24th Brick Slips - Right 1/19th
Catalogue for WWW.RICHARDSTACEY.COM
Marc,
I think your bricks will be as good as they get considering the limitations for the competion. They already look great to me and so do the tiles! I have saved many of those great Berlin pictures. Are they from an industrial area in Berlin? Just curious ???.
Frithjof,
That´s a brilliant idea for mounting bricks. When I get to my part-brick wall I´ll try your technique. However I´m glad mine are painted WHITE ;D! ;D
Anders
Anders,
The worksop area where those photos were taken is on a street just to the west of the old "Anhalter Bahnhof" station ruin.
Marc
Like those roof tiles Marc, and as usual with your work the colouring is pretty spot on .............the technique is simple but very effective but glad for your sake that you are not modelling a whole roof.
I have to presume the re-prioritisation of the list has not passed the committee stage yet and I hope that I did not detect a touch of sarcasm " The four finished tiles with some moss and crud (they came from the north side of the roof "
Gordon...who me!?...sarcastic!??.....actually it was just a CYA (Cover Your A**), in order to pre-empt your question as to why there was green stuff on them ;) ;D
So, the guys in the shop felt sorry for you, and decided to go against my instructions, and went and did a short gutter test piece....as I understand it it was made from some unobtanium....which turned out to be Clearprint 1020H Drafting Velumn,.......that was formed around a .156" styrene rod (this comes out to be a 5-1/2" half round gutter with 1/2" beading), then hardened with a light coat of ACC on both sides. Painting done with Vallejo acrylics, pigments and guache.
Top view:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FGutterTest1.jpg&hash=d2aa8c6a108f89a8ab091eb2ae0a59c61f17cb91)
Underside:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FGutterTest2.jpg&hash=3c73a3bc5fbb3470fbf66b01ffc6c6dbb5ba420f)
I still need to mess with the approach and shaping a bit and take more care when handling, so the beading doesn't seperate like it did here (though I have seen this rust out like that on an old gutter ;D ) This one is also a bit over-weathered/rusted.
Marc
BTW: the guys have been sent to a re-education camp, to see where their loyalty and commitment lie.
Marc
It just gets better -excellent inspiring workmanship - I mean leaves in the gutter what next pigeon poo - I must learn to observe life more. I take the photos but should look at them closer -Keep the good work I am inspired -Enclosed a few pic's of down pipe and gutter detail.
Barney
pipe 2
pipe3
Interesting leader and hangers. It appears to be cast iron. I have not seen much of anything like it before.
Marc, I'm assuming the gutter is a representation of a galvanized steel. Wouldn't the inside look a bit different from the outside? Your method of building it of paper is a great idea.
Barney, great photos - now in reference file, love the colour and cast iron guttering all the rage here 100 years ago ........ so very useful when Marc's guys get on to down pipes and those nice joints
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 29, 2011, 02:47:35 AM
BTW: the guys have been sent to a re-education camp, to see where their loyalty and commitment lie.
Ah ...... the Land of the free, glad to see the concept is still not dead
OK still being a pain in the A.... the beading I'm guessing you put on separately , micro-strip ? ..... sorry just realised it must be paper for the comp.
I played around with a similar concept few months ago when making pressed steel sleepers
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Foddssods005-1.jpg&hash=e3ecc15ccee6496ddc77c74dd622828e496e5465)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi232.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee275%2Fgfadvance%2Foddssods003-1.jpg&hash=3179ad1680039cea9b600e9b3fb7814068e63abd)
Sorry forget to say.......... great guttering, I like the texture the paper has given them
I like the way the beading separated and, until I read your comment, thought you had done it on purpose. I also think the finish you achieved is outstanding and the couple of leaves you dropped into the gutter are a nice touch. Nothing in the photos suggests you used paper.
Once in a while I still detect a slight anti-paper bias and suspect that, no matter how superbly a model or diorama turns out, someone will think another material could have produced better results. My rather extensive research suggests that might occur when someone tries to pass off stained paper as stained wood but very rarely in other applications. I say that not just from my own experiments but from years of studying the world's best paper models.
If, on the other hand, someone were to argue that paper might not be the easiest or most efficient material to use for achieving a given result I might agree.
As I understand the purpose of this experiment, it is to prove paper can equal wood, plaster, clay, plastic, and metal for representing all kinds of textures at contest winning levels. My guess is that it will.
Russ
Barney:Thanks for the kind workd, and special thanks for those wonderful pics. So much to see in them. I probably will have to stick to simple strap-anchors for the rainwater leades...Luckily the prototype i am looking at used an interesting strap hanger system for the gutters as well...so it saves me having to do something decorative or doing center hung ones. ;D
Chester:
Yes, you are correct, they were ment to be galvanized or bonderized finish, and the outside should have weathered a bit lighter....was having issues thith getting a proper light galvanized look under the old rust...I need to go and read Chucks technique.
Gordon:
I hate to fess up, but the model will likely be 99.98% paper, as I need to use some brass rod in a few areas....the beading being one of those. The beading is appled and then blended .012 brass rod. this helps keep the formed paper from distorting/bowing too much. I figured it wasn't really cheating, as most of the part was from paper. ;D
Russ:
I wasn't necessarily shooting for contest level, but rather just to prove to myself that I can make paper look as good as a decent quality model built from the usual variety of materials....and to disprove the general notion/opinion that one can readily tell if a model is made of paper. The wood doors will definitely be the crux, but I have some ideas on how to work around this by adapting the design and detailin. I am finding that a large part of working with this material is picking your details carefully, and knowing how to address parts that are difficult to represent, without sacrificing overall appearance. (IE. instead of making/showing the split out door bottoms, maybe hiding the majority of that area with a steel/metal kick-plate...possibly chipping rusty sheet metal, or part of an old advertising sign...something that still gets the mood across, but will not reveal the shortcomings of the material [or my skill]. ).
Marc
Modesty will get you nowhere. Go for the gold, Big Guy! -- Russ
Quoting Marc, part ;-
The images I am using as reference and guide can be seen here. They are from a workshop area I photographed in Berlin last year.http://public.fotki.com/mreusser/berlin-workshops/ -: unquote
very intresting set of pics Marc
any idea of the age of those buildings? 1950s onwards additions to earlier ones perhaps?
some beautiful all in one plane work, at bottom of pic 5420 & top far leaf rendered in a rather different hand!!
maybe after the war a shortage of skilled brickies?
an interesting mix of bricks too looks like blue/black engineering bricks mixed with ordinary pressed clays as if a shortage caused a recycle of whatever was available ( demolition of damaged buildings perhaps )
In pic 5441 looks like the brick pier for the doorway of unit no 10 is butted up to the side of unit 9 instead of being bonded in
I always find it as intriguing to work out why a building looks like it does
as to explain why a model turns out as it does when did not intend it to
(Spurious history that is ) ;D :-[
QuoteI always find it as intriguing to work out why a building looks like it does
I whole-heartedly agree!
Unfortunately I don't know anything about this little complex of buildings, But it is as you note likely from shortly after the war, and likely using salvaged bricks from the area.
The image below shows the general area in Berlin where the shops are:
A.) The shop complex
B.) The old Berlin main passenger terminal location (Destroyed during WW2, but a small portion of the entrance facade
remains at the north end as a monument)
C.) This whole area was the main Berlin railway and freight yard (now mostly bombed, falling into decay or demolished
[snuck in and took a few pics of buildings in there as well] there is apparently some kind of museum or such in
there, but it was too late in the afternoon and all was locked and closed)
D.) The remains of two huge loco roundouses.
Marc
Attached is a closer aerial view of the shop complex.
M
Quote from: marc_reusser on June 01, 2011, 02:59:11 PM
Attached is a closer aerial view of the shop complex.
M
Thanks for that Marc
was just going to google Schoneberger Str.myself when I saw your last post
so taking both those aerial shots together, I wondered if the shops, being right in the middle of 'railway country' were originaly used as stables, many raiways used horses for deliveries, & yard shunting in the UK at least,
just speculation
and it would be too early for it to be a cluster of lock ups for private cars
The weird angles in the structures certainly suggest that they were built along or around some tracks.
Ah fooey.... I would have liked a shot at some of that laser cutting...I'm just sayin..
G'day all,
just asked today to clerk at a local copy shop to punch some chip board strips (1mm) in the comb binding machine and collected the punched out pieces ... the two red pieces look quite interesting too ... seem to be some left overs in the tray.
Gonna try to build a small piece of brick wall the next days, but there still will be the problem with the bricks at the corner(s) ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F05-02-mauersteine-aus-karton%2F05-02-0003-mauersteine-aus-karton-p1030101.jpg&hash=fff81764de96804a4667bfb59d26a33a55ad3b21)
EDIT: They measure about 8,4mm x 3,45mm, so in 1/35 scale they could be (or come close to) bavarian or old austrian bricks, regarding this compilation:
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backstein#Formate (http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backstein#Formate)
Kind regards,
... just a short update due to a little progress:
I've chosen an arrangement similar to Marc's - not to copy his but to make the comparison easier ... even this is (or would be) 1/22,5 scale ...
The "bricks" would be to small for using them in 1/22,5 scale, but nevertheless it does not seem to bad/unproportional, does it? And I think Marc's solution regarding the "corner bricks" is far more better, because this chip board "bricks" out of the tray of a comb binding machine have all the same length - and therefore to be cut/parted by hand ... which turned out to be time consuming. Don't know either, if I'd manage to fill/close the gaps at the cuts of the "corner stones" (and make them "invisible") ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F05-02-mauersteine-aus-karton%2F05-02-0004-mauersteine-aus-karton-p1030103.jpg&hash=457c6a22c4e2aed14b470e64467382f46a87db02)
This is how I am getting around corners.
Quote from: artizen on June 04, 2011, 04:51:19 AM
This is how I am getting around corners.
... um, well ... a piece of cake ... with these 3-dimensional bricks (I use them normally too), but quite a tricky bit with these 2- (or 2 1/2) dimensional chip board "bricks" ... ;D
... well, here it is ...
After having glued the punched out "bricks" from the binding machine to the gray chip board I treated the gaps of the corner stones with ACC and sanded them afterwards. Then I coloured the whole thing with a mixture of acrylic paint, which turned out to be too brown-ish after having dried (so they appear more like clinker bricks) ... :o ... followed by a coat of highly watered down watercolour of different shades.
At last I filled the joints/gaps around/between the bricks with real (tile) mortar, using Frithjof's above mentioned method ... (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1468.msg26376#msg26376)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F05-02-mauersteine-aus-karton%2F05-02-0005-mauersteine-aus-karton-p1030120.jpg&hash=64c62a80b4ad5b76ddeeafd453fca8bfbf0eca52)
they are some excellent looking bricks.
That looks good. It's nice to see someone else getting a slight wave in the brick courses! That's why I print a brick template onto adhesive address labels for a spacing guide.
The colours are good. Bricks come in all shades and it's good to see the odd broken brick and distressed edge etc.
Quote from: artizen on June 05, 2011, 02:04:42 PM
That looks good ...
Quote from: nk on June 05, 2011, 10:15:17 AM
they are some excellent looking bricks.
... thx guys ... 8)
Sorry just in case of bothering you (again), but here's the last one on this ...
The bricks and the tile mortar are covered by a layer of Humbrol clear coat, followed by a randomly application of artists pastels (dust and green)
In case of using this variation of Marc's technique/idea, I'd think that a thickness of 0,5mm instead of 1mm chip board would do as well ... ::)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2F05-02-mauersteine-aus-karton%2F05-02-0006-mauersteine-aus-karton-p1030127.jpg&hash=21b7689eaad0a806b450244640e23c3944c4b89a)
Gerald; Thanks for that SBS. those punched bricks work quite well, and give a good result.
Watching the '24-Heures de Mans', tonight I took some time to do a paint test on the out of scale brick section I did previously. Nort perfect yet, and I cind of mucked up the left half with a light wash..but, I now sort of know where to go when I get to painting the final model.
1. Base color of Vallejo acrylic, painting surfaces and in cracks between.
2. Spray on matte artists varnish (from a spray can).
3. Mix lightweight wall patching compound with some grey, beige, and black artists water color; add a slight bit of water to make it a bit more viscous. Brush and dab mixture onto wall and into cracks. Remove excess from surface with soft damp cotton rag, and damp brush.
4. Randomly dry brush/dab Tamiya and Vallejo colors onto the individual bricks.
5. Apply a light downward streaked dusting mix of MIG and CMK light dust colored pigments.
6. Randomly Stain lower brick areas, inside corner, and grout lines with a varyingly diluted mix of AK dark streaking wash, and Abt.-502 oils.
7. Apply the mossy green stains using a diluted mix of dark and light green Windsor Newton artists oil colors (linseed oil was wicked out before mixing).
...and here is where it went a bit screwey on the left side...as I went in and tried to apply some light dust and rain streaking. I think I will leave this out next time, or come up with a better approach to get the desired effect.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FFinishTest_B.jpg&hash=a1a26fdb8434750d35658ff9ee07de6dd93370c6)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FFinishTest_A.jpg&hash=b79ef3b06365f4b0d0e01340ffe58f575e533a4d)
Marc
Excellent "dry run". I like the coloration, discoloration, and moss. I like the slight variation in surface texture. I don't like the warped corner bricks near the top (which won't be a problem when you do the wall for real) or the apparent lack of mortar at the inside corner. It makes me think you miscalculated a little when positioning the bricks on this mockup. That won't be a problem on the next version, either. Altogether I would consider this experiment very successful. No way would I have guessed from the photos of the painted bricks that I was looking at anything but, uh, bricks. -- Russ
Quote from: marc_reusser on June 12, 2011, 12:35:28 AM
Gerald; Thanks for that SBS. those punched bricks work quite well, and give a good result.
... thx, was fun/a pleasure ... ;)
Quote from: marc_reusser on June 12, 2011, 12:35:28 AM
...
1. Base color of Vallejo acrylic, painting surfaces and in cracks between.
...
4. Randomly dry brush/dab Tamiya and Vallejo colors onto the individual bricks.
...
... Marc, would you mind naming the Vallejo/Tamiya colours, as I'd going to see if I can find similar colours among my supermarket acrylic cheapos ... ::) ... apart from dabbling with the idea to buy some, because they seem to give a better result ... just in case of eventually repeating this experiment too ...
"Wow" on the results ... and thanks for the run-down on the approach. Helluva warm-up! -- Dallas
Gerald,
Base color before varnish was a mix of Tamiya XF-10 (Flat Brown) and XF-3 (Yellow).
Dry brushing and dabbing after grouting was done with:
Tamiya XF-10, XF-64 (Red Brown), XF-69 (NATO Black)
Vallejo (Panzer Aces) #310 (Old Wood), #301 (Light Rust), #302 (Dark Rust)
......other colors that could be used or incorporated: Vallejo # 310 (Leather Belt), Tamiya XF-9 (Hull Red).....I just happened to be out of them at the moment.
Marc
Really nice work on the bricks!
Excellent colors Marc. I´ll guess the only limit with this material is if you want to break a brick but you will probably get away with that as well.
Anders ;D
Thanks for the color choice used Marc. Exceptional look you achieved!
Thanks guys.
Anders; I am working on more broken and chipped bricks, as well as odd construction, on the final (though I will likely catch Nicks ire for doing so ;D). I am also considering attempting to cast some full bricks out of paper...so I can create a pile (or a least a couple of loose ones) and some broken pieces.
Marc
Quote from: marc_reusser on June 13, 2011, 08:52:55 PM
Thanks guys.
Anders; I am working on more broken and chipped bricks, as well as odd construction, on the final (though I will likely catch Nicks ire for doing so ;D). I am also considering attempting to cast some full bricks out of paper...so I can create a pile (or a least a couple of loose ones) and some broken pieces.
Marc
Don't worry , Marc , I am used to you doing things the hard way . I must say though , you have got the colour of the bricks on you're test piece down to a tee . I have bricks in my house virtually identical in colour . So you are doing some things right ! Te ,he .
If you ask nicely I might post a picture of the brick piers I'm building using scale bricks made out of , would you believe it , brick .
Nick
Nick, you ol' rascal, if you want to impress us you will have to modify your (rather splendid) house with 1:1 paper bricks. Now go stand in the corner for old time's sake. -- ssuR
Marc
That is some excellent coloring. That is about as close to the real thing as I've seen. Like Russ said if you didn't know it would have to be the real thing.
Jerry
The colours and texture of the bricks are spot on as is the moss and dark discolouration at the base of the building. One thing I have noticed around Boston is that the half-bricks occur on every fifth row. I don't know if this is regional or not. I am looking forward to seeing the final product now that you have done a dry run.
Nice work, Gerald. Marc, those are quite amazing. Super coloring and texture. Lessons to be learned here!
To all you brick crack counters (its the same as the rivet counter brigade) are your brick corners correct and your gaps straight ? photos enclosed that give you permission to do what you want under the modellers artistic licence act
Barney
Pic 2
Pic 3
Pic4
... um, well ... in this case I have another one - bricks in the framework of that old horse-capstan driven mill at Uhlenbuettel ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2013%2F05%2F11-0022-uhlenbuettel-gruetzmuehle-P1030087.jpg&hash=561153c46d4f0892ffbf10d2b6ecb6352f34d6fa)
Brick crack counters
Barney
Quote from: mad gerald on June 20, 2011, 11:47:00 AM
... um, well ... in this case I have another one - bricks in the framework of that old horse-capstan driven mill at Uhlenbuettel ...
Bild 11-0022
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fgallery%2Fimage.php%3Falbum_id%3D11%26amp%3Bimage_id%3D302&hash=b0eebf6411305b5a5cbe1f9be3cf0a05f5166c46)
That's interesting , English bond used in Germany( I suppose the mill is in Germany). Whatever next .
Nick
Quote from: shropshire lad on June 21, 2011, 12:11:41 AM
... That's interesting , English bond used in Germany( I suppose the mill is in Germany) ...
... for sure it is ... ;D ... : http://www.museumsdorf-volksdorf.de/index.php/article/detail/553 (http://www.museumsdorf-volksdorf.de/index.php/article/detail/553)
In german this kind of bond is called "Blockverband" ... here I've got a drawing (http://www.pw-internet.de/images/cms/mauer08.gif) .. and an additional link (http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mauerwerksverband) regarding different techniques/bonds ... in case of interest ... 8)
These experiments are very enlightening the last pics Marc are really getting close to being a dopplegager for the real thing. Some years ago I started to do some brickwork using printed watercolor paper the printed sheets were cut strip by strip and dabs of yellow carpenters glue, applied under where each brick would be. then the rows were cut with a #11 blade to remove the mortar sections her are a few pics. the painting is obviously not in the same league as yours, but it is an alternate way to get the bricks up on the wall.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2FMacton%2FDCP07657.jpg&hash=61ea8467bd9b839dabd2ca06159761b3e222e631)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2FMacton%2FDCP07703.jpg&hash=47677bf12d6a71b4886d020e7a0b8083756953c7)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2FMacton%2FDCP07680.jpg&hash=48f71dcb3cece2fce500db48948102a1fef4ec6d)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2FMacton%2FDCP07697.jpg&hash=8fc582b3567f90441d81fc36a8b0b22fc440e27c)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy169%2Fmy30mm%2FMacton%2FIMG_5590x800-1.jpg&hash=3b79101f2057e8d54b0b2ed077e4ee87117731b6)
regards Michael
For reference material on building variations you could do a lot worse that look at photos by the Bechers. They photographed variations of the same style. Keep and eye out next time you are in the photography section of an art gallery.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_9FmuFIOX1ak%2FS-vSwROtTpI%2FAAAAAAAAAOY%2FONE7zjxQB1k%2Fs1600%2Fbechers%2B1.jpg&hash=d9a416c1b3c5cc7b9b0f16bea79c7a8ca645b0f5)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_5bVN3kXOxFc%2FTTqiX_VsWGI%2FAAAAAAAACyg%2FCrQ-DTubr0c%2Fs1600%2F06%2BGravel%2BPlants.jpg&hash=103f00caf67a65a82bbdb1059db6d1b7b2ff4ce7)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fgelorobinson.com%2Fphotoblog%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2010%2F02%2Fbecher_gastanks_1983-92.jpeg&hash=78ee8e34623ac57dfc7ba9468006055fac0214ee)
Just when you thought this build was dead!
The resurection of this project will serve two purposes.... for here it is to see if I can create a small 1/35 structure wedgie, 90% of it built using cardboard or paper...and have it look comperable, to anything done with resin, styrene, or plaster. Thanks to Alex at Uschi van der Rosten, I plan to also incorporate one of his new/coming products.
I have a grand total of 45 days to get this built, painted/weathered and scenic-ed. No sweat eh?
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/400694_3044705812631_387226378_n.jpg)
That rendezvous with the mother ship has really lit a fire under yer arse! Looking forward to seeing yet another project (gasp) completed ... Dallas
Oh, well. I was hoping to publish your work with paper because it is always so disgustingly good. I suppose, in the grand scheme of things, it doesn't matter. Anyhway, unlike most of us, I will be able to scrutinize it in person. -- Russ
The reason I am doing paper is so that you WILL publish it (the paper part...and finished pics).....the other part...the scenery/vegetation..is for the other mag (TWM).....no conflict of interest. Plus I also get to help out another friend get some product exposure. Best of all, I get some free stuff to play around with.
Do you think I am nutters enough to just do paper for the fun of it!? ;)
Which magazine is (TWM)?
Details;-
http://www.theweatheringmagazine.com/
Quote from: gfadvance on May 27, 2013, 08:39:08 AM
Details;-
http://www.theweatheringmagazine.com/
Does the question mark on issue 5 mean that they don't know what will be in it yet ?
There was no subscription renewal form with my last issue , does that mean I have to go through the whole palava again to get the next four issues ? I guess it does ,
Nick
Quote from: shropshire lad on May 27, 2013, 09:10:56 AM
Does the question mark on issue 5 mean that they don't know what will be in it yet ?
There was no subscription renewal form with my last issue , does that mean I have to go through the whole palava again to get the next four issues ? I guess it does ,
Nick
What he said !!
Quote from: Andi Little on May 27, 2013, 10:54:33 AM
Quote from: shropshire lad on May 27, 2013, 09:10:56 AM
Does the question mark on issue 5 mean that they don't know what will be in it yet ?
Nick
What he said !!
Hi gentlemen.
Issue #5 will be about mud effects and techniques. :)
(BTW, there's always the subject of the next issues written at the very end of the current issue)
It always bothers me when a publisher already knows what will be in his next issue. I never know what will be in mine -- or whether I will have enough material!!! -- Russ
Because each issue of TWM deals with one specific subject....and how different modelers aproach different aspects of that subject......they have created a topic list, and in what order, for a good number of future issues. This also helps when you want to contribute, or when they approach you, as you can see the upcoming subject(s)/topic (s)and work towards that end. I can only believe it can also help in producing the mag, and making sure that they have enough articles/contributors.
For me, the fact that there is a tighter timeline (rather than the once per year which allows my mind and interest to wander too much) and the supplied subject make it easier for me to focus and push through. They also do a good bit of follow-up and contact during the article time period...prodding to make sure everyone is on the ball and will hit the deadline.
Then you just talked yourself into a lifetime position with Westlake Publishing. Your new job is to determine the content of each future book and to round up the authors and articles. While you are busy with that I will cavort with beautiful girls in thong bikinis, each eager to cater to my every whim. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on May 28, 2013, 11:59:10 AM
While you are busy with that I will cavort with beautiful girls in thong bikinis, each eager to cater to my every whim. -- Russ
Which will become less demanding with each passing year , until in the end all they'll need to do is wipe the dribble from your chin !
Yes , I know , I'm going ....
QuoteYes , I know , I'm going ....
Should I leave the corner first ;D ;D ;D
Michael
Quote from: michael mott on May 29, 2013, 04:18:51 PM
QuoteYes , I know , I'm going ....
Should I leave the corner first ;D ;D ;D
Michael
Oh no , we have lots of corners around here for us naughty boys . It's the place to be .
Was able to squeeze in some time and finish the basic part of the first wall section (about 300 brick pieces). Went through a couple of design modifications in the process....nice thing about working with paper is that you can easily hack away and reconfigure.
The surfaces are intentionally nicked and roughed up in areas, these will show as some texture variation/chips/damage when painted. The uneven setteing depth of some of the bricks is also intentional. All based on the reference images I am using for inspiration.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/946755_3064502867545_1157162127_n.jpg)
Even at this stage they look good!
Quotenice thing about working with paper is that you can easily hack away and reconfigure.
Yea, you don't have to dip the whole thing in Di-Sol to remove the paint when you decide you don't like the color! :D
-Mj
Very nice. I love the coloring.
Jerry
Adequate at this stage. -- Russ
Marc,
Quote from: marc_reusser on June 04, 2013, 04:59:39 AM
Was able to squeeze in some time and finish the basic part of the first wall section (about 300 brick pieces) ...
... as it seems pretty tricky to get hold on you via e-mail, I'd like to ask here if your file/drawing of bricks could be up-scaled (i. e. 1/16 ::)) ... and if you don't mind: what did the graphics shop charged for lasering one sheet?
BTW: Looks already very promising ... but not quite sure regarding the corner stones - could we have a close up?
Cheers
Thanks Guys.
Gerald, My apologies about the email, I did see it, and meant to respond...but am so busy with work emails, that any non-work ones unfortunately quickly drop down the page, dissapear, and are then forgotten.
The bricks file could easily be scaled up. Unfortunately I started this idea/project over a year ago, and at that time only did a quick ACAD file for the cutter, and then discarded it. It was basivally just a couple of different simple grids (one for brick ends, one for brick sides, and one for corner bricks), with the different color lines corresponding to different cut depths (I E all the way through for most areas, partial way through for connecting tabs, and light score, for corner brick interior side cut/fold marking.
Because of the time that has passed, I do not really recall what he charged me; I believe it was around $30-40 (maybe I posted it somewhere at the beginning of this thread), which gave me an 8.5" x 11" sheet (was based on cutting time...and would have been less if I had less bricks/lines, thinner material, and was less picky about the quality). For the price I actually ended up with almost 2 sheets, as he did one to as a test piece..that sheet has some flaws, but the pieces can still be used in areas, or cut for smaller brick pieces. The shop that did it for me was not a specialty shop., it was just the local graphics/art supply store across from the art college, that happens to have a laser cutter, 3D-rapid prototype machine, large format printers, and some other stuff...they mostly do stuff for the students...so the quality is okay/good...but not "Swiss". ;D
I will have to take a close-up pic of the corner pieces with my real camera. Will post it when I shoot the next photo(s).
Have a few minutes away from work, while a rendering generates....
Working out the process for creating old weathered roofing-paper/roll-roofing. This is an adaptation/expansion of the old Nash & Greenberg technique, but using the current crop of oil-based washes. 1-ply of Kleenex (un-patterned over tlephone book page (newsprint paper will work also, but is quite a bit thicker...not so scale), random brush painted and dab applications of oil-based washes, random ...sprinkling of dirt, ...when dry dirt is brushed off, and material can be cut into roll width strips. (Note: I have found that the oil-washes do not laminate/bond the tissue ply to the sub-paper as well as the old Floquild paints, so I found it helpful/advantageous to give the dried pieces a light brush coat of Testors 'Dullcote' (and letting it dry), before cutting into strips.
Once applied to the roof it can be further weatherd with washes, pigments, etc.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/984171_3066406595137_1829492970_n.jpg)
...and the requested macro. :)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/841_3066583279554_2120355794_n.jpg)
Hmmm. Looks exactly like paper. Except, of course, for the bricks.
I have a nagging feeling that this little exercise will look rather nice at the end. Nick may decide chipboard bricks aren't so bad after all.
Russ
Quote from: marc_reusser on June 05, 2013, 12:00:04 AM
...and the requested macro. :)
... thanks ... even the (paper) surface structure looks convincing (like bricks) ... :o ... my only nitpick could be (if it's not to blame on my aging eyes), that some cornerstones seem to have a tiny, almost invisible notch ... as they seem not having bent around the corner, but eventually constist of 2 pieces glued together?
Cheers
The notch is where the top layer of paper has slightly lifted at the scribe/score location, when folded. Some areas it is also the shadow of the score line. Neither of these will/should not be visible in the final piece.
Quote from: marc_reusser on June 05, 2013, 02:42:00 AM
... Neither of these will/should not be visible in the final piece ...
... there has not been the slightest doubt ... ;D
Quote from: finescalerr link=topic=1468.msg41965#msg41965 date=137041895
Nick may decide chipboard bricks aren't so bad after all.
Russ
/quote]
Yes . That's what's worrying me .
I have to admit the wall is looking good . Curse you , Reusser .
Wow Marc that looks great!
Thanks Paul.
Quick update snappie....trying to work out final scene composition...FAIL....but no time to change. KBO.
Brick coloring is not finished.....this is only the base wash color.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/969214_3079002990039_385445228_n.jpg)
That sure is an oddly shaped building.
What kind of archatect are you? ;)
The bricks look great. Cant wait to see them done!
Marty
Thanks Marty.
Still tryin' to figger out them protractor thingies....and I done has lots of flags I need to store. :)
It's quite interesting ... in a "where in the hell is he going with this?" sorta way ... guess we gotta stay tuned. ??? -- Dallas
Dallas...you know as much as I do.....dont get your hopes up. :) It's really just a "wedgie" to try/demonstrate a variety of techniques. It will almost definitely become a dust-bin resident when done.
Marc
Marc,
Made these same comments over on FB, but...
Mmmm, not a fail just yet. The various wall angles are working well to make a small scene interesting (and you know all the good stuff happens in "the corner"). With so many little corners, it kind od lends itself to a number of micro scenes of the stuff that tends to collect in these places. And although I know you hate doing figures, a dejected character sitting on the door step seems appropriate for this little piece. I like the curve wall top, that changes things nicely.
Cheers,
Dan
Thanks Dan for the comments.
Another quick phone snappie, after some more select/individual brick coloring, and the initial/basic grouting
Grout/mortar is a mix of premixed light-weight spackling compound, and Badger #16-11 "Concrete Grey" acrylic paint. The Mortar mix is applied and pushed into the joints using a small putty knife; excess is then removed with a dampened soft cotton rag. Before the mix ix completely dry, a stiff stencil brush is used to stab at joint areas to lightly remove and texture the grout. More texturing and color shading will come in subsequent steps.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/999525_3112143938542_985212307_n.jpg)
Marc
Marc Reusser
12 hours ago via mobile
.
Today strated off with concrete work. Shown here is the installed area, with some initial staining and washes. Base color came out a bit more tanthan I was after...but I don't have the time to sweat it...and its always better to be on the warm side in concrete instead of on the cool.
Concrete was made in the following manner:
Plaster mixed with CMK and AK pigments, and some random finely sifted... dirt (to represent aggregate, and to give texture) was poured into temporary molds, made of .060 stip styrene fstened to a piece of glass with double sided tape. When thelaster has started to cure, the excess overflow/ plaster was scraped from the top, using the a piece of sharpened spring steel, and the styrene surface as a guide/level.
While the plaster was still lightly damp, the mold strips were removed, the pieces carefully lifted off the glass with the spring steel. Still leVing them face down, the back was covered with a thin layer of glue (I use Elmers Carpenters Glue, but any white glue should do).... onto this was then pressed/laminated a piece of white tissue paper (leave the paper larger than the piece..it can be trimmed later). When doing this last step, take care not to get the glue on any visible edges or on the surface of the piece, otherwise it won't take staining in those areas. Note- if the feices broke cracked or chipped when lifting from the glass, handling, or attaching to the paper....that is fine....just fit them together, and glue the paer across all of them...this will hold them together.
Once all the pieces have been backed, I flipped them over ( they were still cool/damp to the touch at this point), then using water and a stiff brush, I began to wash and stipple out the the plaster ftom the surface (this is similar to acid or spnge washing real concrete/cement)....the softer and still nit fully cured plaster, can be washed/scrubbed/stipppled put from between the aggregate (sifted dirt), leaving a textured and softened surface, as well as softened edges (the amount of softening and surface texture will depend on the amont of washing/scrubbing/stippling....and how cured the plaster is). Tthe plaster can also be broken more at this point by bending with your hands...or applying heavier pressure during the stippling. He pieces can now be set aside to dry...dried with a hair dryer. Once dry, the peices can receive an initial staining with enamel or water based colors, or pigments.
Lastly, the pieces can be cut to size and shape, using a sharp Xacto, and glued to the base, using white glue. Once the peices are in p, ace additional unifying and specific staining, coloring, and wethering can be done.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1017490_3129666096585_412135321_n.jpg)
Holes/locations for adding details such as grates and sewer covers are easily cut/scored in using an Xacto, and lifted/chipped-out using a small chisel. (Removed ares were painted with LifeColor acrylics, to prevent any exposed edges/areas from showing when the details and dirt are added.)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1006171_3130912887754_1250511249_n.jpg)
Coming along!
Great ideas, thanks for sharing.
I had thought of using gauze or drywall tape (mesh) to support for cracking.
Marty
Repeatin' what I said elsewhere ... super freakin' cool slab work ... BUT ... seems like the extra detail toward the outside edge of the slab (dio edge) draws the eye the wrong way. That busted-up detail looks really freakin' good, just maybe in the wrong place 'cuz it is an eye-catcher. -- Dallas
Oh don't worry Dallas by the time he adds all the "vegetation" and stuff you will hardly notice the stuff at the front!
;D ;D :D ;)
Should have made the sidewalk from paper, too. Cheater.
Seriously, I still recall the things you did with the instructions and box from a truck model. Bet you could come close to the plaster's appearance with card and a lot more time and effort.
Russ
As Gordon , there is still a lot to come, that will hopefully draw you eye inward; though you could be right. I actually never think of this stuff when starting a scene, I have never been good at planning them...I'm way to I indecisive and often to grandiose....so like on this, I just tend to start someplace and keep building.....I have a general idea....but 90% just evolves/develops as I go....till time or interest runs out...or till I realize it's truly rubbish. Also like on this, my purpose is usually experimentation, learning, or showing something....and the scene is just secondary...so it often is lacking in creativity or focus.....and once I get to the point where I have achieved or not, the thing I was trying to learn/see/show, I tend call it done, and bin it or toss it in the closet. :) (reason No.7 why I almost never finish a model :D :D )
Marty, I had thought about the mesh, but for the thickness of the plaster (.060), I feel it would have been too heavy,...thus allowing less random cracking, and I would probably have had to embed it, rather than gluing it to the back, which would then allow the mesh to show in the larget cracked and chipped areas.
Russ, the original plan was to adapt/modify a new printed concrete paper product from Uschi Von Der Rosten products....but there was a delay in the manufacture/printing of it...and thus was limited in time to do an alternate solution....but hey, it still uses paper as a backing. :)
Today, started looking through, and messing around with some of the scenery materials I am planning on using on this....need to try and keep up with Alexandre and Gordon.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/580175_3132261561470_1926734006_n.jpg)
I can't see any Woodland Scenics bright green lichen in that little pile , or are they the ones in the centre at the top of the photo ?
Ha! :)...yes, two bags of olive and med toned fine ground foam at the top. But only there for veeeeeery limited use...so limited, that nobody will likely ever notice it was used. ;D
great mark
my eye was drawn to the corner of the building first
kind regards kim
Marc, You have way to many choice's on scenery materials to choose from ???
I did not understand any of your SBS for your concrete but it came out great! really!
can you please explain in English thanks
Gil
Man, that is one ugly sidewalk -- in a good sort of way!
Thanks Kim and Ray.
Craig.....sadly thats only the half of it.....takes a lot to try and keep up with the likes of Alexandre and Gordon. :)
Gil.....what part(s) were not clear....I'm not being sarcastic, there is just so much there to "re-describe" that it helps to know where to start. :)
I quick pad snappie update to bore you.
Asphalt patch was done using the Hudson & Allen Studio asphat mix, and given washes of Tamiya Deck Tan XF55.
Manhole at right is a 1/48 scale laser cut product from VectorCut, cast grate atleft is a resin casting from a Diorama Debris mold. Both items were AB'd, a dark rust base mix of Tamiya XF1 Black, XF3 Yellow, and XF10 Brown, when dry, given a wash of L...ifeColor UA748 Brown Green, and while this wash was still damp, a thinned wash mix of AK046 Light Rust and AK013 Rust Streaks was applied. When this was dry, the surfaces were lightly burnished with a finger application of AK086 Dark Steel pigment.
The left grate will be closed in the final scene, but "wet" scenic debris was added in case one sees through the slits. This was done using fine crushed leaves and dirt, then wetted with a random mix/application of AK078 Damp Mud, AK014 Winter Streaking Grime, and Wet Effects.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1016512_3133514472792_1933181006_n.jpg)
Looks, um ... grate! ;D (Oh, that's so lame) ::) :P 8)
Okay ... shaping up damn nice .... and forgot to say thanks for all the SBS run-down on the beat-to-crap sidewalks ... very good info there & much appreciated! -- Dallas
Marc
Great info. And some dam nice work.
Jerry
No criticism ... yet. -- Russ
Working on this thing takes FOREVER....its like watching grass grow!
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1044349_3139620345435_433078320_n.jpg)
Mark that just simply blows my mind. The textures and colours look so realistic.
Marc
I had some time and coffee and reread your SBS and now I too can read English.
I totally understand the paper tissue backer. I now see with your latest picture the acid wash effect, very nice. It gave me this idea : what about for texture placing the tissue on the front side and when the plaster was still green embossing it in and it would give the surface booth texture and tooth? I am going to try it, thanks you've given me the tools.
MPH
The stains and colours of the concrete really show up nicely in this latest image, looks exactly like the real thing IMO. Brilliant!
Cheers
JT
Very interesting process and an excellent result.
A couple of days ago I was kidding you about using paper instead of plaster for the sidewalk. I really don't think it would be feasible to get that kind of result from paper no matter what you do. In fact the sidewalk now looks more real than the bricks. -- Russ
Thanks guys for the kind comments and interest.
Gil,
Not sure what you are suggesting would work...if you are planning on just pressing the tissue paper in, and then lifting it back off, I dont think that will give you any good texture as the paper is pretty smooth (might get a spalling look where the paper and plaster bond, and you lift off some of the plaster surface).....also if the paper starts to fall apart from moisture, it could leave tissue fibers in/on the plaster, that could haunt you later. Something like a sandpaper will give you a better embossing texture...but it als has a greater possibility/risk of lifting the surface (maybe to a positive result) when you lift the sandpaper back off.
If you were planning on embossing/pressing it in an leaving it as the finished surface, that definitely won't work, as the tissue paper on top will not allow the cracks to be seen, and when it comes to coloring or staining, tissue paper is a horrible medium, and does not take staining well, so I dont feel you would get good coloring.
Marc,
I second what the other chaps said ... but I also have a question:
Comparing these two pics below it appears to me, as if you treated the "concrete" with another layer of a yellowish colour or wash ... am I right? And if so: what did you do/use? Or is it just caused by a different light arrangement ... or white balance? Sorry, if I overread it somewhere in your SBS/building report ...
Quote from: marc_reusser on June 30, 2013, 01:56:48 AM
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1006171_3130912887754_1250511249_n.jpg)
Quote from: marc_reusser on July 03, 2013, 04:36:17 AM
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1044349_3139620345435_433078320_n.jpg)
Cheers
Gerald,
The top color does have a slight bluish tint, but yes,......in the second photo, I had done some of the initial greenish and brownish shading washes along the walls, and some of the larger cracks, or where lichen/moss/algae would begin to show, or discolor the surface,due to dampness. I used some acrylic color washes for this. (You didn't miss it, as I didn't post it, as it is part of the upcoming AK article on moss/lichen).
Just more of the same...except that today is 'Giant Penny Day'...and I am finally done with the first round of weeds in the concrete, and can now move on to the first round of stuff on the walls....yay.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1005927_3144189059650_2126647484_n.jpg)
Excellent progress as ever Marc' ............... it looks to be coming together very nicely. I honestly think that now with this level of modelling excellence one has introduced, wittingly or not? A further element into the arena - a non the less tangible element but one that is far more esoteric ... and that is time.
It's been said often that these dio's are snap shots in time - but now, with this and Chucks "Store" scene, it is being modelled, physically!
If you only start to consider the season the scene is placed in that's a current platitude, but it's taking on so much more an aire of portent - even now I'm weighed heavy with the setting of the scene: awaiting the story to unfold.
Sounds pretentious? Not so much ...............I really do think these little scenes are now realising their true pathos as "snapshots in time".
I am anxious to see what magic you weave with the brick finish.
This little diorama is so elegantly simple and simply elegant.
Russ
Marc,
This is just superb. I can't add anything more.
Paul
Marc
My only criticism is,.........................................................
O.K. the penny's to shinny ::)
Great job
MPH
Thanks Paul,Russ Gil. and Andi, for the knd words.
Andi...most overwhelmed...and at a loss for what to say. Thanks.
Yesterday it was time to work on "the back forty"..... more to go.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1005422_3150719302902_64198478_n.jpg)
Today was "start the doors day" (image shpwsthem just loosely set in place). Not reLly happy with the result, but it wil have to do....hopefully the coming details on them will help.
Wood is Balsa strips, cut to needed size from a sheet. Knot holes were done with cut toothpicks.
Wood graining done with a wire pencil, fiber-glass pencil, and 400-grit sandpaper.
Wood staining was done "working wet..." with Tamiya acrylics, and Tamiya lacquer thinner.
Blue paint is Ranger crackle paint, applied over the wood sealed with Dullcoat, then dampened with Turpentine. Once the paint is applied, hair dryer is used to spped drying and increase crackling, then peeled with Tamiya masking tape.
Additional staining done with a mix of AK "Winter Streaking Grime", and "Dark Mud", additional staining at cracks, edges, and to accentuate crackles was done with ABT502 "Starship Filth" oil color.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1016155_3153292407228_338039630_n.jpg)
Fantastic door.
I wonder, is this shade of blue from Ranger out of the jar or did you mix it with another classic color.
It's been a while since I've ordered mines, but at this time there wasn't a so nice blue in the catalogue.
My ranger Crackle Blue is really ugly, and yours shows nice grey/pale blue tones.
Or is it the result of the filters and dull coat and weathering?
Alex,
The color is straight from the bottle..nothing added to it. I was thinking of doing this, but decided not to in the end, because I thought the latex content from most acrylic paints would likely cause the crackle not to work, or work well.
It was ugly and pale, when it came out of the bottle, but after drying and peeling I added an overall and random thinned wash of the AK "Winter Streaking Grime" (the incorrect bottle one) to each board, and aside from accentuating the cracks and wood grain, it also darken the blue tone of the color, and gave it the shift towards the grey-blue tone.
I have in the past gone in and done oil color filters for more color as well as fading using a sponge and LifeColor TSC212 "White Oxide".....you just need to make sure you dont get any on the wood, or cause chips to fall off. I find that once I amdone peeling and post-staining, a coat of DullCoat works pretty god to help hold the chips.
Marc
This could be some of your best work! :o :o :o
But the door is to simple, I'm not feeling it, I think it should be metal
I know your on a time constraint, so after the contest is over change it to a metal door and then throw it into that drawer of yours with all the misfit models ::) ::) ::)
MPH
I would have thought balsa to soft to work with. Seems to have worked here!
Yeah, I'd be pretty disappointed, too -- no matter what the other guys say. -- Rus
Beautiful! :o
need to try soon something like that :)
Quote from: Mr Potato Head on July 08, 2013, 05:38:03 AM
Marc
This could be some of your best work! :o :o :o
But the door is to simple, I'm not feeling it, I think it should be metal
I know your on a time constraint, so after the contest is over change it to a metal door and then throw it into that drawer of yours with all the misfit models ::) ::) ::)
MPH
Better idea . Parcel them up and send them to me and I'll build a nice concrete block and brick loco shed around them !
Nick
Quote from: shropshire lad on July 08, 2013, 01:27:05 PM
Quote from: Mr Potato Head on July 08, 2013, 05:38:03 AM
Marc
This could be some of your best work! :o :o :o
But the door is to simple, I'm not feeling it, I think it should be metal
I know your on a time constraint, so after the contest is over change it to a metal door and then throw it into that drawer of yours with all the misfit models ::) ::) ::)
MPH
Better idea . Parcel them up and send them to me and I'll build a nice concrete block and brick loco shed around them !
Nick
I really like them Marc. Beautiful job. Send them to me an save the postage.
Jerry
Gil;
Thanks, appreciate the morale boost...though probably not hard to be "best ever", if it is only the the diorama one has ever built ;D ...and "diorama" is stretching it...more like square peanut butter lid. ;D Door is getting more details. I was at one point considering a metal door, as it would have been quicker and easier, but the original sheds I am using as a rough guideline, had wood doors, and I like the interplay/inclusion of wood as another material, and paint finish/texture....besides, once its in the closet or rubbish bin, I won't be able to see it anyway. ;D (actually this one probably wont end up in the bin..it will be saved so it can be stripped for parts when needed for some future project). BTW. not building this for a contest...this is just for a small sidebar article on "Moss" in the upcoming TWM "Vegetation" issue.....but hmm could bring it to the NNGC Just for fun. :)
Arno;
Thank you. I am sure that with your scratchbuilding skills, whatever you build would be quite spectacular.
Chuck,
The balsa has some real pro's and con's; the softness, making it easy to break, and lack of greater size variety being among the cons. The other negative points which can cause issues are the softness when cutting (say cros grain cuts), it easily deforms/compresses, so one needs to use a very sharp blade, and even then it is most advisable/necessary to sand it a bit to it's final length (even more so on thick pieces)...and also an issue, when painting, the red grain/checking in the wood...these areas do not accept stain well at all, so one needs to be selective in the wood pieces, and experiment with getting these areas to have some/enoughcolor, or be placed where it wont be an issue. On the plus side, I do like how easy and fast the wood is to work with, and it does take/absorb the Tamiya stain coloring far better than the Basswood. Gordon and I did a number of tests for wood satning and coloring about 6 months back, and the Balsa took the coloring in a far superior manner over the Basswood, and did not leave that semi transparent wood surface/depth that one often see's on stained baswood (I know that your technique makes it very nice and opaque, but at the time we were trying to figure out a way of doing it for modelers that do not have access to Silverwod, or heavy duty Acetone.) I do also like the ease in which the Balsa can be grainesd and worn.....really nice when one needs to work fast, and just get the idea/effect across....though because it is so soft, it is easy to quickly overdo it.
Thanks for the info. Your results certainly look good and don't give anything away regarding materials used.
Sweet!
What are the dimensions of the base?
Thanks Chuck and Ray.
Ray; The base is 4x6 (10x15cm).
Quote from: Mr Potato Head on July 08, 2013, 05:38:03 AM
This could be some of your best work! :o :o :o
... um well, at least one of his best ... ;) ... anyhoo ... I second Gil, already looks the part ...
Quote from: Mr Potato Head on July 08, 2013, 05:38:03 AM
But the door is to simple, I'm not feeling it, I think it should be metal
... I always suspected you still have your focus on
this ... ;D
Quote from: marc_reusser on May 25, 2011, 03:30:34 PM
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages19.fotki.com%2Fv678%2Fphotos%2F2%2F921732%2F8934705%2FDSCN5441-vi.jpg&hash=f6cbce6a7ece28f92da9ee183fc96e980a382396)
... may be, I'll give your technique representing and designing concrete a try too ... eventually this could help to finalize my own attempt of making plaster look like concrete (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1759.0) some time ago (feels it could be years by now) ... :-\
Cheers
OK then ::)
I'll wait for the finished product,.......................
yes bring it to the convention, i'd like to see it
MPH
Boy, trying to keep pace with Alex is a job in itself.
Slow going, still working on "the back forty"....but at least I have finished a bucket I can cross off my list.
Bucket interior was made by adding a disk 3/4 of the way up, and sloping it to counter the bucket/ground-plane angle. This was painted with a greenish gray color; when dry, leaf debris was added.
AK "Engine Grease" mixed with "Wet Effects" was added in layers, with a brush, until enough of the "leaves" were covered/below the surface,to create the look/effect I was after.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1069218_3158486217070_1556071665_n.jpg)
Really enjoying this build. You mentioned earlier you will probably bin it when it's done, I hope you have changed your mind?
Jim
Thanks Jim.
No, I won't bin it. I plan to save it in case I need parts, or as a test piece for a future build/finishes.
Ground cover looks splendid, nice colouring and variety of textures.
Not for me your realise, but think somebody else will be interested in the source of that "modern" plastic bucket .... Or did you make it yourself
Quote from: gfadvance on July 10, 2013, 03:56:05 AM
Not for me your realise, but think somebody else will be interested in the source of that "modern" plastic bucket .... Or did you make it yourself
I don't know what you mean ;D
Splendid work Marc indeed. It looks fabulous in this close-up, from the brick to the ground cover to the bucket. I love this bucket.
These white and yellow lichens on the stone look fabulous too.
Wandering in here... Some really excellent work across the different mediums, Marc. I love the lichen effect on the rock, and the creep of the moss/mildew. The one thing I would suggest is going one gauge smaller on the bucket's wire handle (if possible) - it looks just a little bit clunky?
Love the knackered ironwork... But I agree that the door is wanting some love - not sure what, as I think the blue finish is solid looking, but the little final jump outs are still waiting. Great little study.
Paul
hey
Nice Bucket
Looks terrific overall. As good as anything I've seen on this forum.
Here is a really tiny observation: To my eye the cardboard bricks don't quite measure up to the other materials. Not the finish or the weathering but the material itself. In that magnified close-up you can see how some corners have a raised ridge thus making the adjacent part of the brick look sort of concave. Possibly the overall texture is a little smooth (although I have seen brick of almost any texture so maybe that doesn't count).
I can say this because I know the brick is paper. If I didn't know I might never have noticed the imperfection. Also, there's been a lot of stuff here recently about bricks from other materials (but also in larger scales) so I suppose the constant comparison has made me hypercritical.
I'm curious about your take on it.
Russ
hi all
russ because you know it is paper makes the difference.
i think it is a terrific exercise in weathering.
kind regards kim
Quote from: finescalerr on July 10, 2013, 11:56:55 AM
... Here is a really tiny observation: To my eye the cardboard bricks don't quite measure up to the other materials. Not the finish or the weathering but the material itself. In that magnified close-up you can see how some corners have a raised ridge thus making the adjacent part of the brick look sort of concave. Possibly the overall texture is a little smooth (although I have seen brick of almost any texture so maybe that doesn't count).
... that's exactly what I tried to say here ...
Quote from: mad gerald on June 05, 2013, 01:26:30 AM
Quote from: marc_reusser on June 05, 2013, 12:00:04 AM
...and the requested macro. :)
... thanks ... even the (paper) surface structure looks convincing (like bricks) ... :o ... my only nitpick could be (if it's not to blame on my aging eyes), that some cornerstones seem to have a tiny, almost invisible notch ... as they seem not having bent around the corner, but eventually constist of 2 pieces glued together?
...even "notch" might not have been the exact matching term, but I meant the position, where the chip board has been bent to fit 'round the corner ... but Marc promised, this "... will/should not be visible in the final piece ..."
Nevertheless an outstanding piece of modelling and weathering ... and already one of my favourites ... !
Cheers
The moss / lichen is really nice! It adds such wonderful depth to the whole thing.
Only a modeler would have "build a bucket" on their bucket list.
Wonderful work Marc. I too think the wire handle is a bit beefy though. Love the ground cover and algea green.
This is looking pretty bloody good Marc. I really like your method of controlling the cracking of the plaster. Its something I will try myself. I think the groundcover looks spot on as does the bucket, except the slightly overscale wire handle...before you change it I like the think that some things look right to the eye and its only in a photo that something like pops out (at least that's what I tell myself when I see a photo and my gut looks overscale!)
This is way better than I could ever build so I vote yes for the bricks. And the weathering. And the concrete cracks. And the bucket. And the moss.
Quote from: nk on July 10, 2013, 06:34:33 PM
This is looking pretty bloody good Marc. I really like your method of controlling the cracking of the plaster. Its something I will try myself. I think the groundcover looks spot on as does the bucket, except the slightly overscale wire handle...before you change it I like the think that some things look right to the eye and its only in a photo that something like pops out (at least that's what I tell myself when I see a photo and my gut looks overscale!)
Like brooms.... ::) ;)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1069218_3158486217070_1556071665_n.jpg)
Quote from: nk on July 10, 2013, 06:34:33 PM
I think the groundcover looks spot on as does the bucket, except the slightly overscale wire handle...before you change it I like the think that some things look right to the eye and its only in a photo that something like this pops out ...
Yes ... but photos are how it will most likely be "displayed" ... and therein lies the rub ...
Alrighty, this is a tough one ... I sure as hell can't do any better ... and would struggle to do as well as what you've done here with the bucket ... BUT ... it did jump out at me. EVERYTHING ELSE looks better-than-model and approaching/achieving photo-realism ...
The bucket jumped out to me looking like a well-made 1/35 casting done by a "skillful" modeler ... which is at least a couple steps below however I'd describe what you're doing here ...
In addition to the handle, the ribs look funky ... looking at photos, there ARE
many different rib patterns to use ... the bottom rib looks good ... often there's a "structural" rib there to support the handle ... the upper rib looks beefy and out of place and also seems to add "heft" to the diameter of the top, which makes the wall-profile look thick and heavy ... like a commercial casting ...
And then it needs a little "something" to anchor it ... seems to sitting in wet leaves ... maybe a wet shadow at the bottom, I dunno ...
If you're on a deadline and the point is moss and such ... then you don't need any of this crap ... not that you would ever need any of this crap ... except you're one of the few who'd want to know the divergent opinions ... so there you have it! 8)
Now, I sincerely hope that I can do nearly as crappy a job when it's my turn to make a bucket! ;D
-- Dallas
Quote from: Chuck Doan on July 10, 2013, 09:12:35 PM
Quote from: nk on July 10, 2013, 06:34:33 PM
This is looking pretty bloody good Marc. I really like your method of controlling the cracking of the plaster. Its something I will try myself. I think the groundcover looks spot on as does the bucket, except the slightly overscale wire handle...before you change it I like the think that some things look right to the eye and its only in a photo that something like pops out (at least that's what I tell myself when I see a photo and my gut looks overscale!)
Like brooms.... ::) ;)
We weren't going to mention them , but now you've brought it up ... !
Wow. Thanks all for the comments and critiques. Much appreciated.... now let me see if I can answer them :)
Quote from: gfadvance on July 10, 2013, 03:56:05 AM
Not for me your realise, but think somebody else will be interested in the source of that "modern" plastic bucket .... Or did you make it yourself
.
No, the bucket was not built by me (thus most of the issues mentioned by Dallas)...time ticking away, I decided to use one from Verlinden (who I generally avoid, because I find most of their stuff middling at best). It came from some "Tank Workshop Set" that also contains the cool metal shelving unit that Dallas used on his garage dio. I chose the best of the 3 castings, and tried to thin the walls at the upper edge as best/much I could,....I ignored the ribs around the outside...because of time and impatience...and as Dallas so correctly noted, they are usually a bit thinner, especially the top one.
Quote from: pwranta193 on July 10, 2013, 04:36:42 AM
The one thing I would suggest is going one gauge smaller on the bucket's wire handle (if possible) - it looks just a little bit clunky
Yes, it does look, and is, a bit thick, but it was the thinnest/closest wire (.0009) that I had on hand. and it was a real PitA to anneal and work with :)...the plastic handle part is also not great, but after 12 tries of drilling out a piece of .020 styrene rod with a .0012 drill, I said the hell with it..it was going to have to do. :)
Quote from: pwranta193 on July 10, 2013, 04:36:42 AM
I agree that the door is wanting some love - not sure what, as I think the blue finish is solid looking, but the little final jump outs are still waiting.
The door still has strap hinges, hold-back loops, latches, and some misc. sheet metal details coming....unfortunately these take a bit of time to do, and I needed to get the doors done to this point, so I could continue on the other parts of the dio that are affected by their location, and in case I needed to call it quits because of deadline, there would at least not be a black hole where they were supposed to be. :)
Quote from: marc_reusser on July 11, 2013, 12:31:45 AMYes, it does look, and is, a bit thick, but it was the thinnest/closest wire (.0009) that I had on hand. and it was a real PitA to anneal and work with :)...the plastic handle part is also not great, but after 12 tries of drilling out a piece of .020 styrene rod with a .0012 drill, I said the hell with it..it was going to have to do. :)
Do yourself a favor and order several sizes of thin-wall tubing from Ngineering:
http://ngineering.com/tubing.htm
The smallest is .018" tubing with .002" wall ... so that will slide right over the handle without drilling! ;D
Get the other sizes too ... will come in handy when you need tiny telescoping shapes, etc ...
While you're on the site, some of the stamped metal shapes may be useful:
http://ngineering.com/stamped.htm
Shipping is reasonable and I've had good/quick service from them ...
You did a damn fine job on that Verlinden bucket (which explains what I'm seeing) ... do a little something to "anchor" it in the muck and maybe tone down the muck inside toward the top ..
Cheers,
Dallas
G'morning all,
Marc's building report encouraged me, to give his technique producing concrete from plaster a try (so I will be eventually able to finish my attempt to make plaster look like concrete). I followed Marc's reference, except that I chose a thickness of 3 mm as I did not have 0.060 styrene for a mold (I used wood strips) and 3mm in 1/16 scale would match the prototype of paving slabs with a thickness of 50 mm and dimensions of 31 x 31 mm (instead of a larger sheet to cut in shape), which would match the prototype measuring 500 x 500 mm as well. Unfortunately my stipple treatment happened a little too late, as the surface was not cool/damp enough anymore ... anyhoo next step will be staining the 2 test pieces with water based colours. As my attempt seems far to humble compared to Marc's and not to spoil this thread, I'll continue with my approach over here (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1759.0) ...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.de.feldbahnmodellbau.de%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2013%2F07%2F07-07-0042-1zu16-betonplatten-P1010551.jpg&hash=e81ba22a7e537b765b0b202fbbba7c4b06314ecf)
Cheers
Everyone
I think your being hard on the bucket :o
It works convincingly
I like it, weather it's kit or not.
I hope my brickwork and scenes come out as good
MPH
Quote from: Mr Potato Head on July 11, 2013, 06:27:25 AM
Everyone
I think your being hard on the bucket :o
Nobody criticizes Marc more harshly than he criticizes himself!
Quote
It works convincingly
I like it, weather it's kit or not.
I hope my brickwork and scenes come out as good
MPH
Yeah ... me too! Well, I mean I hope that my scenes (eventually) come out that good ... and yours too! ;D
Cheers,
Dallas
Trying to analyse the bucket scene...I like it because it adds some contrast to the diorama, but that may also be the part of it that is making you look at it more closely to see those minor flaws. Put other more modern items around it, and it would probably blend into the scene easier with less focus on it. Wondering if an older metal bucket would sit more comfortably in the scene. Perhaps a metal bucket would be more predictable in this sort of model (but I do like the age comparison of different items in the scene).
Cheers,
Dan
Chuck.....Thanks for getting the joke. ;D ;D
The bucket and type was a very intentional addition, in order to give the scene a "timeframe"/context....this can help validate/explain the reason why the buiding is in the condition it is (IE instead of a heavily weathered 1920's building in 1930)....it is also one of those items that is very universal...so it can act as a touchstone/reference to a wide variety of viewers...plus it is an extremely common item in junk amd trash piles, as well as around any number of places. Yes, an older bucket would have blended better..... but as Dan mantioned, it would be trite, expected, and offer nothing to the "story" or "history" of the scene.
Today I had to tackle the concrete roof slab edge.
After the cardboard roof piece was sealed with a layer of Dullcoat, a toothpick was used to apply a thin layer of thick ACC (Superglue) along the edge/face, while still wet, this was pressed into a mix of small pieces of dirt/gravel. Overscale or unsightly pieces were removed with tweezers. When dry this was given a brush application of Dullcoat, to help hold the gravel pieces in place, and to slightly infil around the larger pieces.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/988247_3163424780531_1463926786_n.jpg)
Lightweight Spackling compound was mixed with very finely sifted (.00024) dirt, and Badger "Concrete Grey" acrylic paint. The mix was then applied to the face and top and bottom surfaces with a spatula. to straight/square/flatten the front edge/face, it was pressed afainst a flat surface. Before the mix was fully cured an old brush wetted with water was used to "wash"/stipple some of the mix out from some areas between the previously applied gravel.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/32611_3163424860533_1388076998_n.jpg)
When dry the edge/face received additional coloring:
Wash made of a mix of Tamiya XF-54 & XF20
Spray of Dullcoat
Wash of LifeColor #UA748 "Brown Green"
Drybrushing of Badger #16-11 "Concrete Grey"
Thin pin washes of AK #405 "Dark Brown"
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/971660_3163425020537_127316512_n.jpg)
The other end of the finished edge.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1070088_3163424500524_1641809492_n.jpg)
Showing the asphalt roll roofing apllied. (there will be more detailing, tar sealant at edges and seams, dirt, and leaves)
To use the tire or not to use the tire...that is the question. (hollow resin tire was made for me by Gordon ..and it's quite neat)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/255035_3163424540525_56317145_n.jpg)
That looks damn good! And, you know, when the bucket isn't the focus of a super close-up, it works exactly as intended! ;D -- Dallas
Thanks Dallas, this project is like Alzheimers....every day its the same thing, but something new one has to figure out.. :)
Now I really like the concrete edge and the roofing felt ........ The combination of texture and materials is one I have never seen modelled before and it makes a huge difference to the totality of the picture you are making.
But! ...... Is there not always one ..............
The tyre, while I would love to be responsible for the one major defining piece in this diorama ;D not sure about it?
I am guessing/hoping you will sort of be burying it in debris, leaf litter, etc,etc are you using is as a visual stop for the rear corner? ...... Think it's the relationship between the the current placement of the tyre (appreciate you have just placed it almost as an aside at the moment) and the round drain cover in the cement that is jarring with me?
Maybe have the tyre on a tilt, resting on and in the detritus on the roof, ...... Don't really know
Will stop waffling now.
Personally, I would never think to have a tyre on a roof. I have never seen a tyre on a roof except when used to hold down really old galvanised iron sheets on country buildings. I would never expect to see a tyre on a concrete roof at all as it is not doing a job and few people would bother to throw one up there.
Gordon...it is those same issues I was waffling with. :)
Yes, it was intended as both a visual stop, and to pull over the debris idea from the left. I know the tire on the roof routine has been done over and over, mioriginal thought had been to have an accumulation of silt and small detritus around it...then do weeds on the interior...but as the leaf thing came along on the left, the new intent was to place the tire in an accumulation of leaves....and maybe a McDonalds cup, or discarded Vodka bottle.
The real workshops had some old barrel roof tiles and loose bricks laying around....I could do this...but it isn't quite clicking....or my other thought was to make a simple cinder bloch, and just have that sitting in the leaves. (was also thinking of doing a cinder block to hold the door shut at the bottom.)
Iain...that is part of what is bothering me as well.
Worst case, I know a guy in France I can ship the tire to. :)
Well, here's a thought ... you did the modern bucket to justify the aging on the structure ... and that works nicely ...
What ends up on garage roofs? Frisbees, dammit! 8) (Not to mention kites, model airplanes and so forth) ...
Of course, this may be over your head (so to speak) ... I don't think Verlinden makes a Frisbee. ;D :P
Marc,
The time marking with the bucket is good for explaining the rest of the buildings age. And as Dallas suggested, once you pull back from the shot, the bucket then isn't such a big focus. As more little micro scenes come into play, I'm sure we'll all lose interest in the bucket :)
Tyre on the roof...not sure. Yup, bit cliche. Not finished yet, I know, but something feels wrong to me, and I think its the combo of multiple round features (manhole, bucket, and now tyre). I know groups of three are good, but something doesn't feel right about it. Wondering if something like a collection of pipes would be better? A selection of sizes, lengths and age, and a good collection point for more of those leaves. I reckon it also needs a discarded cigarette packed and some butts collected in the damp corner.
Dan
How about a used condom?
Nevermind,....thats round too.
Marc...best leave the tyre there ;D
Dan
I've often seen shoes or trainers discarded is such a place. Usually only one. Result of a practical joke I guess?
Jim
Perhaps an old cardboard box on the roof. Or some left overs scraps from the tar paper roofing guys.
I love the cinder block as a door stop idea.
Excellent! I just don't see the real problem with the bucket but understand the comments. It does do the job you intended.
The tire on the roof, not so much. I never understood those models with tires on the roof. And that tire has too much good tread left on it to be a junk tire.
8)
Nice roof.
Why not cut a round skylight in it and use the tire as trim?
Russ
look at how you handled the compositional placement of the manhole, now tell me why the tyre doesn't work...
Have any of you ever tried to actually "throw" a
tire 8 or 10 feet in the air onto a roof?
And why would you?
Its a silly thing, sorry but just my opinion.
Mj
I already put tires on a real roof, but on a tin roof, to make it heavier against the wind! It was a hen house... hey I'm a country guy! ;D
I have seen a lot of rural buildings with tire hold downs. It stands out on our models since the roof is so prominent unlike when we look up at it in real life.
Here's a nice F-U to wake up to......just knew my luck couldn't hold out.
Before going to bed, decided to add the first layer of leaves and dirt to the roof. Used some Gravel & Sand fixer to hold everything in place, and some Turp, to try and ease any gard edges, or glossiness that often occurs......woke up today to find that all the coloring where it had been applied had washed-out. Granted, it w...as my fault, because I spaced out on sealing the roof with Dullcoat first, and I was pretty much working enamel over enamel.
After staring at it for a while, I felt the back area actually could work better than my original finish....especially if I can figure out how to eas, soften those hard edges on the reamining dark grey areas.....but those light spots on the front ....those are really troubling, especially since this piece does not seem to be washing out in the same manner (IE underlying/remaining pattern and color, as the back pieces). ARGHHHHHH!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1004063_3169429770652_1470078830_n.jpg)
Thanks to some reassuring comments and suggestions from Rick and Chuck, and though it took all day, and a few spots still damp, I think I will call it fixed and good enough....though it could use a paper McDonalds cup in the left corner leaves. Decided also not to do any gutter pieces...just the old hangers.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1001479_3170111107685_256602207_n.jpg)
Really nice!
So what is sand and gravel fixer? Is it a glue for sticking down leaves and stuff?
The first try turned out better than you thought. The "save" really worked. You may want to nitpick yourself but in reality there's nothing to criticize. -- Russ
Thanks Ian.
Yes, it is some sort of clear enamel based solution from AK-Interactive.
Plus side of it, I that it seems to have zero surface tension issues, and wicks well.
Downside, is that it can tend to leave a ring if used on smoother surfaces (such as armor, or on my roof)...and in doing so, cam leave shiny areas.......some of which dissapear in a day or so, but some seem to stay.
I have started messing with mixing the enamel based fixer with Dullcoat (lacquer based) in a 50/50 ratio, and then mixing this 50/50 with Mr Color thinner (similar to the Tamiya yellow cap lacquer thinner).......then applying this with a fine brush. I used this miz on the concrete slab areas of my scene to fixdirt and weeds in the cracks and joints, and it drieddead flat, and left no marks or discoloration or stains on any of the surrounding areas, neither the concrete nor the manhole/grate covers.
Don't ask me about the chemistry of this...I don't even know if it is supposed to work......I was just trying to come up with a quick fix for the shine and ring issue. :)
Thanks Russ.
Problem is if I don't nitpick myself, I won't know what to do with myself. :)
Nice save Marc. That looks great now. So much better than before.
One tip that I have found for making foam coffee cups is to use the foam label on Gerolsteiner mineral water. because it is thin foam it cracks in just the right way for crushed scale coffee cups. Another thought for your coffee cup is to do something local to the scene rather than the ubiquitous MacDonalds...for example in Boston Dunkin Donuts is much more common than anything else, and in South Boston there is a v. popular place called Doughboy which all the long-time locals/cops/tradesmen go to, so the choice of labelled trash in a diorama can be a reflection of a very specific demographic. Just a thought
I think it's a whole lot better now. Super job on the leaves!
Stunning job Marc, as usual! ;)
Where does the tire come from? Verlinden?
Franck
I think the discoloration is one of those "disasters" that can be used to advantage with a little extra effort, which is what you've done quite nicely.
Thanks guys.
Narayan,
Funny you should mention Dunkin Donuts and Boston....the construction crew there leaves the darn cups all over the project site.....so last month when I did a site visit, I asked them where the Dunkin Donuts shop was, and they all looked at me like I was from anpther planet....till one realized what I was asking and said "Oh...you mean 'Dunkies' "......they did forgive me for the error of my ways, putting off to me being from "Cali", as they seem to think its called. (Guess ineed to go find my old Tone-Loc cassette) ;D ;D
I absolitely agree with your reasoning. In this case however the reason for the McDonalds cup was actually not arbitrary, or because it was an easy out...I chose it, because it actually doesn't define geographic location.....I have seen and beenin McDonalds all over the world (in Argentina, for instance, it was the only place you could get change for the large bills the atm machines gave you; and in Paris, it was the only place you could get a cup of coffee and something to "eat" at 6 or 7 am, .....I could go on ;D...) secondly, a client/friend of ours is heavily in with McDonalds....so sort of a poke in good humor, and thirdly there was actually McDonalds trash at this place in Berlin...granted it was a bag....never the less :) .....there were also Curry Wurst wrappers....but again, I am trying to do the scene to have a feel/touches of, familiarity for a wider range of people.
Thanks for the styro cup trick tip, will definitely have to give that a try.
Frank, the tire was a piece that Gordon cast and fabricated.
Thanks Ray...it was a bit nerving to fix...but I think it worked out okay in the end.
Nicely done on the roof... while I know it wasn't what you were looking for, I have to echo Russ and say that your first go wasn't anything I would have called out as an oops. We have so many different stains and splotches on our surfaces around here that something like that would have been considered tidy. That being said, the final result is pretty darn sporty. The plank and leaf set up is top drawer.
Micky Dees... Yep - pretty much ubiquitous. I've seen bags and cups strewn from Bangkok, and eddying up in the dust dunes in Kuwait ;D
Getting to be about that time to step back from the project?
Well, now that you've had a "happy accident" ... all you need is a pet squirrel and some curly hair to be a "true" artist! ;D
PS -- I didn't prod nk to suggest the foam cup ... but since he did ... nudge, nudge ... -- Dallas
Marc,
if you are going for a Berlin Hinterhof / Werkstatt feel, you clearly hit it spot on! I can just smell the tar from the roofing, the musty wood and the wet brick by looking at this diorama.
As far as trash goes, I would think that the most likely thing to find would be empty beer cans or bottles, hidden beneath the leaves.
Thanks Paul, Dallas, & Christian,
Had to cram some time in today to get the doors moving (still a a couple of details missing)....they aren't great...and the conc block is definitely lacking,..it's all unraveling on me......but, between me wanting to bin it right now, and the fact that time has run it's course, it will all have to do.
Still have the moss and leaves to add, then it will be called done.
Suggestions:
1. Replace figure with Mr. Mudgeon
2. Take a couple of days off and look at it again. It's way cool. By then you may realize that.
3. Then trash it.
Russ
Hello Marc,
but please open the door times, I would see if o does not this still a Trabi is behind it.
Helmut, How did you guess!?
Quote from: Malachi Constant on July 14, 2013, 11:39:41 PM
Well, now that you've had a "happy accident" ... all you need is a pet squirrel and some curly hair to be a "true" artist! ;D
PS -- I didn't prod nk to suggest the foam cup ... but since he did ... nudge, nudge ... -- Dallas
And a happy little tree!
Actually that's not a bad idea in terms of some sort of wildlife, perhaps a couple of foxes?
Jim
Hi Marc, yes I am looking for just such a view (http://home.chemonline.de/astepanek/Trabi_Garage01%201%20Rand.jpg).
Quote from: finescalerr on July 16, 2013, 12:34:47 AM
2. Take a couple of days off and look at it again. It's way cool. By then you may realize that.
I agree completely! Sometimes you just need a little time to see it for what it is.
I agree - 'tis bliddy brilliant - I fear you are suffering from a bout of the classic - "Analysis Paralysis" ......... the bane of all thinking men.
Quote from: Andi Little on July 16, 2013, 11:51:24 PM
I agree - 'tis bliddy brilliant - I fear you are suffering from a bout of the classic - "Analysis Paralysis" ......... the bane of all thinking men.
Oh thank God, one more thing I don't have to worry about getting.
Quote from: chester on July 17, 2013, 06:00:23 PM
Quote from: Andi Little on July 16, 2013, 11:51:24 PM
I agree - 'tis bliddy brilliant - I fear you are suffering from a bout of the classic - "Analysis Paralysis" ......... the bane of all thinking men.
Oh thank God, one more thing I don't have to worry about getting.
Went to the store today to get some ... stood there staring ... couldn't decide which kind to get! ;D
Micro update...
Doors Done. signs and numbers are taken from the original photos. Number signs were enamel, while the no parking sign was printed on, or laminated to, a thin wood sheet or something of some such ilk.
Moss/lichen is started...upper leftcorner/top of wall shows the end product...other areas still in progress and much more to be added around.
Enjoying this little adventure.
Glad the tire is gone too.
Thanks!
Mj
It appears to be slightly more than adequate. -- Dallas
Thanks guys.
I think we will call this done. There are still a good number of things rolling around in my head, that I could add.....but sometimes you just gotta call it quits.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1069808_3199494682256_1054363155_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1005759_3199494482251_1349897673_n.jpg)
My work here is done for today.
It's a remarkable piece of work, and the black & white shots just add to the atmosphere :D
NEXT ??? ;)
Just terrfic.
The time and effort taken to create something so small really shines through Marc.
Whats next????
Very evocative - very effective: Huzzahs from me Marc'.
In fact if you look at it through a telescope [Biro' tube] there's NOTHING to give the game away what so ever. it really is very , VERY convincing.
I should be so good!!! ................. Well done that man.
If your going to go Black & White on us, you'll need some Vaseline on the lenses, or sepia tone
Hey look at it this way, you finished something
MPH
... ugh ... Marc heap good modeller ... ;D ... (and what the others said) ... 8)
Acceptable. -- Russ
Bravo! It's been a great ride with lots of useful SBS and references (thanks for those!) -- the B&W is a nice finale! -- Dallas
Thaks guys!...have no idea what is next....the world is my oyster. Maybe even a hiatus from model building.
I know, this build is so over....but here is an accident pic while shooting final pics today....I like the Chuck Doan-sh sunlight
Marc
Oh brother! I thought we were done with this crap ... c'mon man, pull yerself together ... get over it ... move on! ;) -- Dallas
(The color pix do show off the moss effects & such a little better. Streaks of sunlight don't hurt.) 8)
Came out really nice. Good composition and very interesting features. Now, where's my leaf blower?
Stunning work!
What I really like about this is that, to borrow a phrase from Jerry Seinfeld, "it's a diorama about nothing!" Using a little bit of brick wall, a couple doors, a section of old sidewalk, you've created an interesting and attractive scene that isn't just a backdrop for something else.
I think it's superb so don't you dare bin it!!!!
Very very nice Marc. I like that last photo with the beam of light raking the wall. You have really captured a contemporary moment with an older structure, and that comes across clearly in every decision you made with the build. COngrats on getting it done.
A little ray of sunshine!!! A very nice diorama showing some awesome work.
Jerry
Hi Marc,
What a pity that you are finished! I liked to follow your steps - please do not break. Simply wonderful model building.
Frithjof
Excellent result in the end Marc. Its also been a valuable one to watch and seen some different products in use, so thanks for keeping the build SBS going.
Don't lock the piece away in a cupboard just yet...it will be a good little test environment for when you get into the figure painting ;)
Cheers,
Dan
A most excellent job Marc' ... you are nothing if not the Vanguard.
Just a little glimpse of something seen somewhere, evoking memories and emotions. That's art mate!
Cheers
JT
Quote from: marc_reusser on July 22, 2013, 07:57:11 PM
Thanks guys!...have no idea what is next....Maybe even a hiatus from model building.
So far, no-one takes the bait! ;D
Quote from: Malachi Constant on July 24, 2013, 07:40:13 AM
Quote from: marc_reusser on July 22, 2013, 07:57:11 PM
Thanks guys!...have no idea what is next....Maybe even a hiatus from model building.
So far, no-one takes the bait! ;D
... because it's obvious, Marc was just Joe King ...
Modelling and
Marc - (almost) inseparable as siamese twins ... ::)
Ha...no bait ;D.....I have a , lot of real work projects that need focus.....for modeling, there are some SBS steps I need to go back and reproduce and photograph in the next two weeks, and 3 pieces I need to flush-out/touch-up and finish weathering by the end of August......so with no other upcoming mag committments....I want to use my spare time to hopefully do a bit more cycling.
Thank you all for the kind words and comments, and for your interest during the project, its helped me along through what was often a quite nerving build. ;D
Marc
Lovely 8)
Thanks Arno.
Had to go back and do the steps for an SBS article on making the broken concrete for the shed project. As you can see, they don't all always crack in a manner that you want them to, :) >:( or that looks good and correct; so it's always good to make extras. But don't throw the not so good ones out, they can always be cut or broken, and used in pieces on another project, or as filler in areas where they won't be very visible.
(These are fresh out of the mold, and just dry after the surface washing. Coloring , staining and weathering still needs to be done. In 1/35 scale the square pieces are about 1m x 1m. Thickness is .060")
(https://sphotos-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/934668_3224586269530_722722950_n.jpg)
1 m (meter) might be a little bigger than you meant. Would the size be closer to 1 inch square? -- Russ
I'm taking cover Russ and suggest you do so ........ He did say in 1/35 scale
Quote from: finescalerr on July 31, 2013, 12:50:58 PM
1 m (meter) might be a little bigger than you meant. Would the size be closer to 1 inch square? -- Russ
A couple of points here , Russell , Old Bean . A meter is something you read when you want to find out how much electricity you have wasted typing all the drivel you do . And I suspect that if you were to scale the pieces of plaster that Marc has cast up to 1:1 they would measure about 1 metre square Only a guess mind you .
Nick
Oh, fiddlesticks. I read his post carelessly. I shall flog myself with a cat o' nine tails tails.
By the way I thought that electricity gadget was a metre. This is all very confusing.
Russ
Wait! I just found what it is missing:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/110741/thread/1375210007/Spider+in+the+web
Dig it back out and place it back on "the never to be completed to my satisfaction" pile ;D
Quote from: pwranta193 on August 01, 2013, 01:55:17 AM
Wait! I just found what it is missing:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/110741/thread/1375210007/Spider+in+the+web
Dig it back out and place it back on "the never to be completed to my satisfaction" pile ;D
Yeah , it's alright , but I don't see the fly that is caught in the web and is just about to be devoured !
Quote from: pwranta193 on August 01, 2013, 01:55:17 AM
Wait! I just found what it is missing:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/110741/thread/1375210007/Spider+in+the+web
Dig it back out and place it back on "the never to be completed to my satisfaction" pile ;D
Well heck, at that scale anyone can make spiders and webs. :D I am saving my spiderwebs for the abandoned Russian institution/factory toilet stall model.....Oh you think I'm kidding do you? :)
My stars! How pleasant! -- Russ
Well at least I can look forward to describing your modelling as crap!
Sorry just could not resist
I wonder if it will stink? (in scale of coarse!) ???
Mj
Nice stall, one of the better ones I've seen. Really.
Usually there is a high mounted tank on the back wall, a pull chain, and a copper tube or steel
pipe running down to the opening..... Some old news print...
Nice water/rust stains running down the wall.
6 years back and forth to the small Russian villages, you see some things...
Ken
Ken,
My sympathies on this being one of the better stalls you have seen.
There does seem to have been some sort of pipe that ran up the wall at the right....I was wondering what that might have been...thought maybe a vent,....but your comment of pipe to a tank makes much more sense. Thanks!
Will have to see if I can find a photo of an appropriate tank design to include.
Russ said a while ago
QuoteHere is a really tiny observation: To my eye the cardboard bricks don't quite measure up to the other materials. Not the finish or the weathering but the material itself. In that magnified close-up you can see how some corners have a raised ridge thus making the adjacent part of the brick look sort of concave. Possibly the overall texture is a little smooth (although I have seen brick of almost any texture so maybe that doesn't count).
My goodness I thought I was picky. I am sorry to be late to this party but Marc the big birch seed leaf jumps out like a sore thumb to me. Sorry for not speaking up sooner. The other work just blows me away, you really are a master at this!
And if I am wrong about the birch seed then you can flog me with a withe.
Michael
Quote from: michael mott on October 22, 2013, 12:02:46 PM
Russ said a while ago
QuoteHere is a really tiny observation: To my eye the cardboard bricks don't quite measure up to the other materials. Not the finish or the weathering but the material itself. In that magnified close-up you can see how some corners have a raised ridge thus making the adjacent part of the brick look sort of concave. Possibly the overall texture is a little smooth (although I have seen brick of almost any texture so maybe that doesn't count).
My goodness I thought I was picky. I am sorry to be late to this party but Marc the big birch seed leaf jumps out like a sore thumb to me. Sorry for not speaking up sooner. The other work just blows me away, you really are a master at this!
And if I am wrong about the birch seed then you can flog me with a withe.
Michael
Bend over , please . ( We're not saying you're wrong , but we all fancy a bit of flagellation after supper ) .