1/35 Paper Structure Vignette

[Barney]

1/24th brick slips

[Barney]

Bricks on left 1/24th -Centre 1/24th Brick Slips - Right 1/19th

[Barney]

Catalogue for WWW.RICHARDSTACEY.COM

[Junior]

Marc,

I think your bricks will be as good as they get considering the limitations for the competion. They already look great to me and so do the tiles! I have saved many of those great Berlin pictures. Are they from an industrial area in Berlin? Just curious .

Frithjof,

That´s a brilliant idea for mounting bricks. When I get to my part-brick wall I´ll try your technique. However I´m glad mine are painted WHITE !

Anders  

[marc_reusser]

Anders,

The worksop area where those photos were taken is on a street just to the west of the old "Anhalter Bahnhof" station ruin.


Marc

[Gordon Ferguson]

Like those roof tiles Marc, and as usual with your work the colouring is pretty spot on .............the technique is simple but very effective but  glad for your sake that you are not modelling a whole roof.

I have to presume the re-prioritisation of the list has not passed the committee stage yet and I hope that I did not detect a touch of sarcasm " The four finished tiles with some moss and crud (they came from the north side of the roof   "

[marc_reusser]

Gordon...who me!?...sarcastic!??.....actually it was just a CYA (Cover Your A**), in order to pre-empt your question as to why there was green stuff on them


So, the guys in the shop felt sorry for you, and decided to go against my instructions, and went and did a short gutter test piece....as I understand it it was made from some unobtanium....which turned out to be Clearprint 1020H Drafting Velumn,.......that was formed around a .156" styrene rod (this comes out to be a 5-1/2" half round gutter with 1/2" beading), then hardened with a light coat of ACC on both sides. Painting done with Vallejo acrylics, pigments and guache.

Top view:


Underside:


I still need to mess with the approach and shaping a bit and take more care when handling, so the beading doesn't seperate like it did here (though I have seen this rust out like that on an old gutter ) This one is also a bit over-weathered/rusted.


Marc

BTW: the guys have been sent to a re-education camp, to see where their loyalty and commitment lie.

[Barney]

Marc
It just gets better -excellent inspiring workmanship - I mean leaves in the gutter what next pigeon poo - I must learn to observe life more. I take the photos but should look at them closer -Keep the good work I am inspired -Enclosed a few pic's of down pipe and gutter detail.
Barney

[Barney]

pipe 2

[Barney]

pipe3

[chester]

Interesting leader and hangers. It appears to be cast iron. I have not seen much of anything like it before.
Marc, I'm assuming the gutter is a representation of a galvanized steel. Wouldn't the inside look a bit different from the outside? Your method of building it of paper is a great idea.

[Gordon Ferguson]

Barney, great photos - now in reference file, love the colour and cast iron guttering all the rage here 100 years ago ........ so very useful when Marc's guys get on to down pipes and those nice joints

BTW: the guys have been sent to a re-education camp, to see where their loyalty and commitment lie.

Ah ...... the Land of the free, glad to see the concept is still not dead


OK still being a pain in the A.... the beading I'm guessing you put on separately , micro-strip ?  ..... sorry just realised it must be paper for the comp.

I played around with a similar concept few months ago when making pressed steel sleepers



Sorry forget to say.......... great guttering, I like the texture the paper has given them

[finescalerr]

I like the way the beading separated and, until I read your comment, thought you had done it on purpose. I also think the finish you achieved is outstanding and the couple of leaves you dropped into the gutter are a nice touch. Nothing in the photos suggests you used paper.

Once in a while I still detect a slight anti-paper bias and suspect that, no matter how superbly a model or diorama turns out, someone will think another material could have produced better results. My rather extensive research suggests that might occur when someone tries to pass off stained paper as stained wood but very rarely in other applications. I say that not just from my own experiments but from years of studying the world's best paper models.

If, on the other hand, someone were to argue that paper might not be the easiest or most efficient material to use for achieving a given result I might agree.

As I understand the purpose of this experiment, it is to prove paper can equal wood, plaster, clay, plastic, and metal for representing all kinds of textures at contest winning levels. My guess is that it will.

Russ

[marc_reusser]

Barney:Thanks for the kind workd, and special thanks for those wonderful pics. So much to see in them. I probably will have to stick to simple strap-anchors for the rainwater leades...Luckily the prototype i am looking at used an interesting strap hanger system for the gutters as well...so it saves me having to do something decorative or doing center hung ones.

Chester:
Yes, you are correct, they were ment to be galvanized or bonderized finish, and the outside should have weathered a bit lighter....was having issues thith getting a proper light galvanized look under the old rust...I need to go and read Chucks technique.

Gordon:
I hate to fess up, but the model will likely be 99.98% paper, as I need to use some brass rod in a few areas....the beading being one of those. The beading is appled and then blended .012 brass rod. this helps keep the formed paper from distorting/bowing too much. I figured it wasn't really cheating, as most of the part was from paper.

Russ:
I wasn't  necessarily shooting for contest level, but rather just to prove to myself that I can make paper look as good as a decent quality model built from the usual variety of materials....and to disprove the general notion/opinion that one can readily tell if a model is made of paper. The wood doors will definitely be the crux, but I have some ideas on how to work around this by adapting the design and detailin. I am finding that a large part of working with this material is picking your details carefully, and knowing how to address parts that are difficult to represent, without sacrificing overall appearance. (IE. instead of making/showing the split out door bottoms, maybe hiding the majority of that area with a steel/metal kick-plate...possibly chipping rusty sheet metal, or part of an old advertising sign...something that still gets the mood across, but will not reveal the shortcomings of the material [or my skill]. ).

Marc

[finescalerr]

Modesty will get you nowhere. Go for the gold, Big Guy! -- Russ