Westlake Publishing Forums

Hi Russ good one I am trying but the selfy just misses the spot.
Hi Bill yes a different approach very little painted surfaces and more natural materials ,wood, card,
Halfway through this build I started to get the hang of the technique now I just want more.
The only roughed-up and painted part is the fence, contrast The ground cover is sandpaper. The roof corrugated paper cut as one piece.
A more stylized approach to miniatures.
The actual model is of a building that once existed close to where I live , long since gone.
The style was Australian Federation Cottages common about 100 years ago.
Simple living on the beaches.
Cheers

Hi Frithjof.
Wonderful.
I really don't think you should paint any of this, just use a bit of solid colour and a styled presentation much like what you would see at a top-line museum.
cheers Kim

I agree with Russ. I'm also looking forward to the mining locomotive.

Bernhard

Nice parts!

Bernhard

You certainly seem to have mastered your craft. Sea Biscuit is most satisfactory. Now let's see how the others turn out. -- Russ

Just a few more Dabbles "Sea Biscuit" nearly there a few bits of touching up and some oily bits on the engine fuel lines in just waiting on speed control/choke cable /tools and a few wires
The mining loco well on its way and flat car
The AWFUL TRACK is from the PECO SM32 range and is way over scale even for 1/16 scale models
Just using it for Demo purpose
Barney   

Please send before and after photos of your bald spot. -- Russ

As we have seen here many times, it is almost impossible to avoid tiny parts in model building unless the scale is almost 1:1. -- Russ

Thank you all!

@Lawrence
That should be the norm 

@Bernhard
The base shown in picture 08 has the following dimensions: 263.7mm x 157.25mm x 44.45mm.
The scale of 1:22.5 is only 1.42 times larger than 1:32. After my change from 0-scale (1:43.5) to 1:22.5, it also seemed huge to me at first!  However, this is increasingly put into perspective - even now some parts seem quite small to me.

Since I have no further information about the interior of the Münzel harbor crane, I searched for old drawings on the WWW and found an interesting site with many drawings of old harbor cranes:

https://www.kran-info.ch/technik.htm


Antriebszahnrad 11 (fspg2)

Detail of a drawing from 1900 - found at: https://www.kran-info.ch/technik.htm


I based the assembly of the drive gear on the drawing above.

Antriebszahnrad 01 (fspg2)


Antriebszahnrad 05 (fspg2)



The 3.0 mm thick silver steel axle is ball-bearing mounted in a profiled brass tube.

Antriebszahnrad 07 (fspg2)


Antriebszahnrad 08 (fspg2)



I turned the profile part from a 14.0 mm MS58 bar.

Antriebszahnrad 09 (fspg2)


Antriebszahnrad 10 (fspg2)



As soon as the ordered spur gear (module 0.5 with 15 teeth) arrives, the holes for the 5.0 mm center hole and the six 0.8 mm fastening screws in the base plate of the crane housing can be drilled.


In the meantime, the capsule slip ring has already been positioned in the crane housing on a trial basi

Kapsel Schleifring 03 (fspg2)



The upper part, which is only 12.5 mm x 12.5 mm thick (instead of 15.0 mm x 15.0 mm in the description), is later screwed to the base plate.
 
Kapsel-Schleifring Montageansicht 01 (fspg2)


To prevent the part of the slip ring that can rotate through 360° from twisting after the crane housing has been mounted in the slewing ring base, I divided the inner guide tube into two sections at a 45° angle.
The lower tube section (colored green) is then glued into the outer guide tube of the base (colored red) with Loctite 648.
The upper part (colored yellow) is firmly glued to the lower rotatable segment of the slip ring.
The 45° bevel of the two pipe sections prevents the lower part from twisting.
However, the upper part of the crane can still be easily dismantled for maintenance.

Kapsel-Schleifring Montageansicht 02 (fspg2)

Kim, looks like the head scratching is working, that's a good looking building even though it's a bit more 'kempt' than your usual structures