I have begun another unfinished project, a 1/16th scale M.A.C. Skagit tugger hoist. I have been drawing up the parts in Solidworks for eventual 3D printing. For reference I used the pictures I took of the one at Willits Ca, a few found pictures online, and a sparsely detailed, but scale drawing in the Timberbeast magazine. The tractor will be another converted die-cast. I have designed the hoist and tractor to be built separately and then joined together on the sled.
Time will tell if it gets built, but it has been fun so far.
http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/prototype_pictures/skagit_tugger_hoist/
Link to prototype pictures
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These parts will be lost wax cast in brass, so they can support the heavy die-cast tractor. 00-90 screws will join them together.
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Chuck, that's going to be an exquisite model. Please keep us up to date. Your drawings are just superb! -- Russ
Hi Chuck,
Simply great design performance.
Just how is this to be solved with the roller chain or will it remain motionless?
"CHUNK" away, Chuck! This will be another good one to follow along.
When I saw this thread this morning I became dizzy by such marvelous engineering work. In contrast, one feels like carving wood with a Swiss Army knife :-[
Very, very ... very inspiring work!
Thanks guys! Peter, there will be some wood carving to do! Helmut, I am planning to use the Kyosho roller chain, and the gear teeth mesh, so technically it all could rotate. But it will be a static model, though I will probably test the rotation anyway while making motor sounds (when no one is looking). Theoretically, the opportunity for weathering is very great, which is what I like the most.
Chuck-- For those of us who like things that bolt together, THIS thing is downright pornographic. There is a little of everything! What do we have to do to speed you on your way? It would be great to include a representation of Mr. Do-Right from the ad photo-- ever seem a CLEANER lumberjack? DF
"I will probably test the rotation anyway while making motor sounds...."
That may be the funniest hobby related line I have ever read or heard.
Russ
What a way to start the New Year off...
Your usual excellent drawings and research.
Question will this need a gas pump along side it for fuel?? ;)
Jerry
You are right Dave, it has a lot in a small package.
People often say our models are toys...that doesn't bug me, but what does is that I don't get to play with them!
Thanks Jerry, I am sure a gas pump will appear somewhere.
Beautiful renderings Chuck!!
I am curious, how do the rear axles of the tractor engage the tugger sprockets?
Are they keyed, splined, or some other way?
Great project, looking forward to seeing it happen
Rick
Thanks Rick! The Skagit sprockets are designed to re-use the splined bushing that normally mounts the rear wheels.
Fantastic! I've been wondering what you were up to lately and when we'd be treated to another of your fascinating builds, so I'm very glad to see this.
Phew, what a bright look-out! Don't forget rolling the front wheels through some modeling clay and inserting some grass stalks to the gears and chains while making the engine noises ...
Aside of that premature praise I've got to say I'm simply glad you didn't stop posting at all ...
Cheers,
Volker
Sorry to nit pick on such a beautiful set of renderings, but you left the throttle (?) rod in the second picture out. And, in same picture note that the tractor on the skidder in the background still has at least one headlight.
And don't forget the hocked up wads of snoose on the foot board.
hi chuck.
it is going to look amazing.
Its looking good - great drawings - the bit I don't understand is why 2 winding drums how where they used
Barney
The rear drum did the hoisting, and the forward drum was the haulback line for pulling the main line back out to the load point. I'm sure there were other uses as well for different rigging setups.
I pretty much finished it up, and should be ready to build:
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Looks good Chuck.
Is the Fordson one from the Franklin Mint?
Jerry
Danbury Mint. Yep, another diecast conversion.
How long did it take you to draw that? Did you use Sketchup or some other CAD program?
SketchUp probably couldn't produce as clean an image of such a complex subject. You use SolidWorks daily, right? Given your expertise, I'm curious how long it took you to crank out that drawing. -- Russ
Yes, Solidworks. It's hard to say about the time. A lot of it was spent looking for and at pictures for research. That part is the same regardless of the build method. If I knew the size of the parts and what they looked like at the start, it would probably take me two work days or less to model the items (less the Fordson that was done a couple of years ago.) There aren't any really hard shapes to figure out on this one.
One cool thing was the chain. SW has a fairly new chain pattern feature that lets you make a rotatable model really fast. I modeled the inner and outer chain links. Then I drew a sketch of the chain path and mated the two links to it, then it automatically fills the path with all the links.
To figure the chain, I used a motorcycle sprocket calculator I found online. I knew the pitch (distance between the chain pins) and I knew the number of sprocket teeth from a Skagit factory spec someone found for me on the Yahoo logging group. The calculator showed me the pitch diameter for each sprocket and the centers between sprockets for an even number of links. Easy!
"Easy!"
Oh, yeah...easy... :)
This will be another good one.
Beautiful rendering, can't wait to see it in model form. One suggestion, there should be a slight slack in the chains.
Only two days of actual drawing? At my current level of incompetence that would take me two months!!
Incidentally, I've drawn chain in both AutoCAD and SketchUp ... link by link. Not fun at all.
Russ
Very cool subject!
I'm sure we will all be impressed and dismayed at the same time.
The weathering on top of the engineering will likely push the envelope again....
-Marty
John Geigle of J and S Technologies invited me to send a file of one of my parts to try on one of his printers. My first impression after receiving it was that it was injection molded. I gave it a quick coat of primer to see how it looked. I used Mr. Surfacer 1500 black, which I have found to be the least forgiving and most revealing primer for finding print lines. This part has the least amount of visible print lines I have ever seen on a part. On most surfaces, there are no visible lines at all, even on the curved sections, which is usually where the lines are most prominent. The lettering came out perfect, it is .06" tall .008 wide and .010 high. The material is grey in color and seems stronger than Shapeways FUD/FXD parts, though I am not inclined to test it. Best of all, there is no wax residue to remove. I can't gauge the cost difference yet; I have more parts in for quote so I will soon find out, but the time saving in cleanup will be a factor.
After seven years of working with 3D printed parts, I am finally seeing some of the better quality prints becoming available to modelers. And just in time for my new project!
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Grey primer after clean-up. I spent less than 10 minutes on it as opposed to 2-3 hours (or more) on a Shapeways parts.
Good thing I read the whole thread before asking how you modeled the chain. I had to do one a few years ago, and it was a nightmare. Is the chain feature new for SW 2017, or was it in 2016?
I think it first came out in version 2015. We have 2016, and it worked like a peach. I just recently added some sag (thanks Bill!) just by changing the path sketch.
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I will have to check that out at work on Monday.
Ah, it's an assembly feature. That's why I hadn't seen it before; I rarely work inside assemblies.
Awesome quality print Chuck!
You found the holy grail of 3D printing!
And everyone can work with these guy's? Do they have a website?
Franck
Chuck,
that looks promising. I'd be interested in the provider, kind of printer, material and so on, too (just for industrial espionage purposes).
Cheers,
Volker
Chuck, Like your sag.
That is impressive resolution! It would be interesting to stress test a scrap piece of the material to compare it to Shapeways resins.
http://www.jandstechnologies.com/
When I received the part, I asked if could post it with their info. John said fine, they are looking for customers!
I haven't broken the part yet, so I don't really know it's properties. I don't think it's any worse than the FUD. I haven't tried any solvents either. Not having any wax to deal with is really nice. The Shapeways FUD/FXD is basically the same tech and material as the parts I first got from Print A Part back in 2009. And they were around before that. Most industry based companies using newer tech don't want to bother with model builders.
I haven't received my quotes yet for the parts I need, so it could still be a surprise for the wallet. So it is promising, but...
BTW, Form 2 printers don't seem to be that expensive...
Perfection. And please let us know about that fabrication outfit. -- Russ
Yay! That finish look perfectly like cast iron!
Would love to try that service provider.
Amazing quality on that printed gear!
Absolutely beautiful, but please put a bolt/screw in that sprocket guard where it meets the frame ;D
Added a builders plate and some wire rope, a great way to really slow down the computer.
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Will that twisted filament cable print? -- Russ
I have found some miniature wire rope that is pretty flexible from Mcmaster-Carr. So the 3D stuff it is just for illustration purposes.
Beautiful work.
Jerry
Thanks Jerry!
I received the brass parts for the front section of the hoist. They needed to be strong to support the die-cast tractor. I will probably pin and solder them together. Printed in wax, and then lost wax cast by Shapeways.
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Quote from: Chuck Doan on January 23, 2017, 08:13:16 PM
Thanks Jerry!
I received the brass parts for the front section of the hoist. They needed to be strong to support the die-cast tractor. I will probably pin and solder them together. Printed in wax, and then lost wax cast by Shapeways.
The brass parts look really good!
In fact, much smoother than the brass part I got from Shapeways some years back.
Do you have a closeup image of your parts, It would be very interesting to see if the quality of Shapeways brass parts have improved.
Here is a link to my brass part (http://www.folk-rovere.org/mj/bilder/SW_brass_cp_01) for comparasion. The whole assembly of all the coupler pockets is about 10mmX20mm)
I envy you your Solidworks skills, by the way!
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See if this helps. There were no lines, just some mild texturing. Each part was about 18 bucks.
The seem close to jewelry quality. -- Russ
I think that industry has really driven many of the advances in 3D printing.
The quality of those castings is impressive!
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More parts in progress. The prices were a bit less than Shapeways. Should get them next week.
Quote
More parts in progress. The prices were a bit less than Shapeways. Should get them next week.
Looking delicious.
Are these from J&S Technologies as well? Did you ask if they are open for general business?
As far as I can see they use a Objet printer, so If they are not taking business from everybody, moddler.com should be able to offer the same quality. They are using Objet printers as well.
Looks like there's a lot of support struts to cut off.
Those pinions look like sh__t
I think the little more $ @ SW might be worth it.
I'll gladly get them printed so we can compare! ;D
Mj
Yes, J and S are open to anyone. I think he said it was a Form 2 printer.
They cut off the support material, but offer lower prices if I do it. I am having one clump sent with them on to see how hard it is.
I'll let you know how they come out Marty.
Quote from: Chuck Doan on January 27, 2017, 09:45:24 AM
Yes, J and S are open to anyone. I think he said it was a Form 2 printer.
The large gear you showed earlier looked far better than the Form 1 prints I have seen. If it really is prints from a Form 2, some dramatic improvements have been made.
And it is a printer that my local model railroad club could afford!
This is all very exciting!!! It'll keep getting better.....Allan
Your model is shaping up beautifully...could we expect anything else. The 3d printing is amazing.
I am going to have to learn how to do the computer drawings o that I can get some decent manhole covers made.
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I received the bulk of my parts from J&S. There are some nubs left from the print supports to sand off, but for the most part, the quality is very good. On one drum I left the nut/bolts on (they are .06 wide BTW) and they printed very cleanly. I have never done that before, and it will be a big time saver. The material is fragile, about like the frosted parts from Shapeways. But like those parts, the breaks are clean, and ACC makes a strong repair.
For the record, the gears all mesh perfectly, and they turn with or without engine sounds.
They came out pretty clean.
I see you started the sled. I'm really interested on how you stain the wood parts.
Jerry
DAMN!!!!!!!!!!!
Makes we want to build a steam donkey!
Thanks for posting!
-marty
The results look spectacular - and in such short time! Drawing and 3D printing is definive the way to go ... :'(
(If you can avoid drooling or spraying you definitely should make engine sounds. They will add so much to the model's realism ....)
Less seriously: Overall, do you prefer the output from Shapeways or the other place -- or do you have a preference? How would you compare strengths and weaknesses?
Russ
Great stuff this - have you any info' on the colour of the paint work - would the tractor/engine be the same as the winch assembly or was the winch supplied separate and bolted to a tractor and come as a different colour ?
Barney
Nearly solved the problem - should have looked at the beginning !!
Just looked at the advertisement for the MAC hoist /winch (on page one of your post) and it looks like they used a Ford power uint/tractor - but I wonder if they supplied the hoist unit separate to bolt to your own tractor unit
Barney
Barney, I don't have a clear idea on the color. Logging guys only remember the post-war grey. I am probably going to go with black. They made this unit with mountings for different tractors. I have also seen a John Deere and a Hart-Parr tractor connected to one of these. Supposedly there were others too. I know there is more info out there, but the demise of all but one logging magazine has limited our access.
Russ, I'm not drooling yet, at least as far as I can remember. The two materials have different issues. The FXD has the wax that needs to be thoroughly cleaned, and somewhat more prominent layer lines depending on the print orientation. The new parts are printed on supports that need to be trimmed. These can imperil finer details and edges and must be trimmed with care. Both materials are brittle, but can be easily repaired if broken. I am leaning towards the newer stuff, but I still don't know the true cost difference yet. I am looking at another local source; I'll report on results when known.
The sled will be a challenge due to the size. I can't fake anything in this scale.
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Here is the brass load bearing front with the rest of the frame. I thought of building this a couple of years ago, but I couldn't figure out how to duplicate the delicate Skagit design in material strong enough to hold up the die-cast tractor. Thanks to a previous unfinished project, I learned about the brass "printing" available at Shapeways.The brass part will be screwed down to the sled, isolating the plastic parts from load. When finished, the difference in materials won't be detectable.
Very awesome!
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Test fitted the chains tonight. Seem to fit.
Great project Chuck, love the use of 3D printed parts and the engineering involved.
Chuck, this project is progressing rapidly and coming along well.
All as the others say + a big dribble ! nice chain is it one of those DIY jobs separate links that replace the plastic 1/12th motor bike kit ones
Barney
The chain is from Kyosho, and it's made for big scale RC motorcycles. Thankfully it comes assembled, but it is pretty easy to press the pins out and shorten it up, or to join for longer lengths. The number is GP 15. Kinda pricy, but very accurate for my scale and I don't need a lot. Shop around, the prices vary a lot.
Gets better with every passing day.
Jerry
Awesome as usual Chuck!
Philip
A joy to watch this unfold...Allan
I got a little time in and worked on the brass front section. Everything is bolted and/or soldered together.
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lovely fine work Chuck.
I have rarely or never seen you work with metal. Now this. Your skills are just depressing .... -- Russ
Just beautiful.
Jerry
These are the Shapeways castings with some brass wire truss rods. I just drilled them out, assembled and soldered the parts. I really don't care for working with metal. I don't have the skills or tools.
Nice!
BTW, we saw your folks again at the miniature show on the 4th -- always a pleasure.
Quote from: Chuck Doan on February 13, 2017, 08:08:23 AM
These are the Shapeways castings with some brass wire truss rods. I just drilled them out, assembled and soldered the parts. I really don't care for working with metal. I don't have the skills or tools.
Come on over then!
You can play with my metalworking tools. In return you can teach me Solidworks and some weathering skills. ;D
Finally got the hoist frame assembled, textured and primered. Nice to get some modeling done.
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The texture is JB Weld sponged on, and then lightly sanded when dry. I also used JB Kwik for touch ups.
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Very nice! The texture is quite effective.
... And you've kept your fingernails clean. -- Russ
Very effective texture. JB Weld is pretty versatile stuff.
Chuck the texture is really nice.
Jerry
Chuck the texture is spot on. Which J B Weld product did you use?
Narayan
Thanks Guys! Narayan, I used the regular JB Weld, and some JB Kwik for small areas and touch up.
Main difference is the dry time, overnight for the regular and 4-5 minutes for the Kwik (making it best for smaller areas). The regular can be worked for 1-2 hours before it starts to become un-workable.
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Finally got a start on the paint and the beginning of the weathering. I have found that a good paint stripping method is as important as any application method. This is the sixth try. I have a vat of Windex, and I'm not afraid to use it!
Lot's more to do.
Not bad for a sixth attempt. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on May 23, 2017, 11:25:02 AM
Not bad for a sixth attempt. -- Russ
Yes and it came out so perfect. Amazing.
Jerry
Looks great!
Thanks Guys!
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Some more weekend progress. Added some nuts and the adjusting struts, and continued with the weathering. For what it's worth, here are the steps. So far this is just a big experiment.
Base coat was Mr. Surfacer Mahogany primer. Followed by hairspray (from a spritzer bottle) airbrushed on. Then a spray can coat of Tamiya enamel Dull Red as a thickener coat for more defined chip edges (multiple or heavy coats of acrylics only tends to make rubbery peels). Then the color coat mix of of Tamiya XF-1 Flat black and XF-63 German Grey airbrushed on. Chipped with a sharp plastic stick after dampening the surface.
Started weathering using Prismacolor Premier pencils. Dip tip in water and rub on sandpaper to get "paint" (can mix colors, no problem) Apply with damp cosmetic sponge: Dab in "paint", then tamp on a hard surface to unload as desired, and then lightly duft on the model. Build up or remove, to desired effect. Can be removed with a damp sponge if it goes to heck. Seal with lite Dullcoat spray, which does not affect the penciling. Final step is sodabrushing using a Mini sandblaster and baking soda at 15-20 PSI to dull.
Oil residue is Black and Brown oil paints mixed with very fine powdered dirt. Applied with a soft brush and edges blended with the sponge. Assuming final coloring/dulling/ glossing will be done when the oil paints finally dry (someday).
Excellent , as to be expected ;)
Thanks for the detailed explanation , think I will be " borrowing " your paint mixes, etc, etc for the loco
Chuck, That is terrific! Thanks for the how-to.
Excellent. The coloring is just perfect. Your eye for realistic coloring is unbelievable.
Jerry
Beautifully done Chuck!
There is nothing that gives it away as a model!
The giveaway is that it's on a white background. They'd never get a dirty, heavy item like that on a seamless backdrop without making a big mess. Gee, anyone can fool you guys .... Elementary. -- Sherlock
Thanks for the step by step Chuck. Its really helpful in appreciating what we are seeing.
hi Chuck how many layers are you up too now.
cheers.
Quote from: Chuck Doan on May 29, 2017, 04:49:14 PM
Started weathering using Prismacolor Premier pencils. Dip tip in water and rub on sandpaper to get "paint" (can mix colors, no problem)
Apart from the fact that you use Prismacolor pencils to get paint (never heard of that) I especially like your oil residues.
QuoteOil residue is black and brown oil paints mixed with very fine powdered dirt.
That's something I will try out too. Thank you for the turorial.
Peter
Chuck-
Amazing. For the JB Weld texturing (which looks spot on) are you just working it with a brush? Ive seen similar texturing done in 1/35 for castings for armor with Mr. Surfacer but never with epoxy. Very interesting. Also JB Weld seems to remain a bit gummy, has that been an issue at all?
I use a cosmetic sponge to dab it on. It does remain soft for a long while and will "self heal" until it reaches a certain surface cure time (3 plus hours). So I come back and re dab for a while to re-texture. It dries plenty hard (overnite), but can be sanded. I give it a light sanding to knock down the texture a bit. The JB Quick is too quick for large surfaces and I wish there was an in between version that surface cured faster.
Got the front truss rods installed. Truss rod tips (.025 diameter) made from styrene rod, threaded through a screw plate made from an old watch. Nuts from Scale Hardware.
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Also started to weather the inside. The inside details won't be easily seen when done, but it's fun to do. Inside debris fastened with liquid Dullcote. Larger pieces with white glue.
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That's looking really good, Chuck. How did you do the small numbers on the heavier rods as seen in the first two photos?
Just raised lettering on the 3D model. The prototype had part numbers cast on most of the parts.
Fantastic paint and weathering!
Thanks Ray!
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Made a bit of progress this weekend. Working my way around the other side and back (actually the front of the hoist). It is bolted down to a handling pallet with an open center for holding during assembly and weathering.
That's terrific, Chuck!
That could easily pass as a piece of real equipment on a shipping pallet.
Beautiful work Chuck!
You're light years ahead of me with weathering. I really appreciate you describing your methods and posting photos along the way!
Inspirational.
Satisfactory.
Russ
Chuck-- This is looking fantastic! Very happy with the plant debris inside and that beat-up rear (front?) beam. Please stay motivated! DF
Chuck,
Quote from: Dave Fischer on July 06, 2017, 12:10:23 AM
... plant debris inside ...
how do you fix that/attach it to the item? I do not spot the smallest mark of glue (or glue surplus) ...
Cheers
Gerald, I use Liquid Dullcote applied with a brush. I cover it with the dirt and brush off the excess when dry. Larger items are placed with white (PVA) glue. I sprinkle fine dirt over these items also, so any glue spots will be covered up.
... ah, OK ... thanks!
lovely stuff this -you make it sound so simple -
Barney
Chuck
That is just fantastic work. You just keep setting the bar higher with every new post
Just keep motivated.
Jerry
Builders plate fresh from the printer. 16 micron print layers. .375 x .75" (9.5 x 19mm) Letters are .028 high. True size would be 6" x 12" This is the same as Shapeways FXD, but this was not printed by them.
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Hmm. It looks a little newer than the rest of the model ....
Enough of my nonsense. Do you think the lettering would have worked and looked clean had the height been more like .014-inch?
Russ
I did a smaller version, maybe .019 high. The letters were legible, but they were more blobby. The text tool in Solidworks doesn't allow kerning, so I can't adjust the space between letters. If I could it might be doable.
I don't know if you have Photoshop, Illustrator or something similar, but I have had success creating the graphic in one of those programs and importing into, in my case, SketchUp.
Greg Hile (new member, first post!)
Thanks Greg! And welcome! I need to do some research to see what can be done for Solidworks. I'm sure there is something.
Chuck, is SolidWorks able to import dxf or dwg data? Illustrator exports those files. If you have any vector graphic file of the artwork (as pdf as well) I can export it for you.
Cheers,
volker
Yes it can!. I did the artwork in SW based on a photo of the prototype. It should be possible to do in another program and bring it in.
great rendering Chuck
Chuck, I've been trying out Inkscape, a free open-source vector program similar to Corel Draw. Its .SVG file worked well for getting custom decals with HO scale 2 inch letters printed.
Nice render!
Greg, welcome aboard!
Thanks Ray! I will be posting an introduction and what I am working in the next day or two ...
Added the idler gear. Grease and oil made with oil paints mixed with fine powdered dirt. When dry, a touch of thinned gloss was applied to bring it to life.
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Great work! The grease really looks spot on.
Not bad. -- Russ
Incredible!
Extremely realistic. It does not look like a painted scale model.
Chuck, you topped even yourself with this project. It is GOOD!
Now that is what you call the real thing. Beautiful work.
What did you sift the dirt through?
Jerry
Thanks Guys! Jerry, I used some 400 mesh fine stainless filter screen I bought at Mcmaster Carr. I also use it for window screens.
Chuck,
That's as sweet as it gets.
Thanks for sharing your great talent.
Rick
Gunge - crud - rust what more could we wish for - I just love it
Barney
Really, really impressive work Chuck!
Chuck, that is just perfect. Did you have to smoothen the gear's teeth surface to achieve that extremely convincing look of greased sheer metal?
Thank you for posting that. I once knew a guy who made printed magazines. This for sure would have been a more than worthy topic to publish.
Volker
Incredible as usual! I never thought grease could look so awesome!!!! Allan
Thanks very much!
Volker, the teeth were sanded smooth, and then I used a pencil to apply the metal shine. This was covered with a light coat of Polly Scale high gloss. When the teeth catch the sun, they are quite shiny. I applied the oil paint and dirt mix to the valleys and tops of the teeth, and then the gloss when it dried. The large gear on the rear drum should be neat when done, though I am not excited about the 72 teeth on it!
Awesome job Chuck, as always! ;)
Franck
Thanks Franck!
Finished the builder's plate and mounted it. McLeod model RR nuts finished it off. These were made of cast steel, but I don't know if the letters were polished or not. So, I just painted it.
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Looks fantastic Chuck! The little details like the builder's plate really make a huge difference in the overall effect.
Most satisfactory. -- Russ
That looks right, and good!
Extremely nice job!
chuck i think you should give up your day job -nice
Fantastic work , as always , Chuck ........ Very inspiring for us mere mortals ;D
Thanks for the info on grease and wear & tear on the gears might well come in useful to me shortly
Very nice indeed
Jerry
You are really one of the best modeler I've ever seen!!!
Jean
Thanks for the nice words!
I made some more progress this weekend. Dry fitting the haulback (trip) drum (pardon the drill bit). The 3/8" diameter (.024 actual) wire rope is 7 x 19 strand stainless from Mcmaster-Carr (the more strands, the more flexible it is). I wrapped 25 tedious feet around the core using super glue to hold it (excess easily removed with acetone). Hardest part was keeping it from kinking and away from the cat. The core is separate from the ends to facilitate handling and do-overs (already needed). I used a heavy wash of black oil paint to simulate well kept and oiled rope. Will make a nice contrast to the war weary look of everything else. The end fitting (closed spelter) was also 3D printed and buffed with Rub N Buff and oil warshed.
Much more to do, thankfully. I haven't enjoyed a model like this for a long time.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2utfWeGxU6NJ5.jpg)
Sacré bleu! -- Russ
Chuck, Sacré noir! The wire rope looks well oiled. Glad to read you are really enjoying this project, I'm really enjoying seeing it.
It is the subtly of your work which is the real joy to look at , that and the accuracy of your observation ..... The way the inside of winch drum is rusted being a great example . Lovely just lovely
p.s. Thank for info on the wire you used, managed to track down some 0.8mm dia stainless steel wire in the UK which should work for a 1/35 scale project
Most excellent Chuck! I echo Mr. Fergusson's comment on your observational skills. This is the key ingredient in making the model believable!
All those little details. Your the master at making them look so real.
As always exceptional work.
Jerry
All what the others say - meanwhile I will take a big gasp followed by several pints of Larger
Barney
Quote from: Buster95 on September 03, 2017, 08:14:27 AM
You are really one of the best modeler I've ever seen!!!
I would go further: Chuck Doan IS the best in his field - far ahead from all of us (and I hope I will not offend anybody here ::)). Ok, there are a some others too, but all in other branches, and they can be counted on one hand, e.g.
Chris Flodberg, Kim hyun-soo - maritime modelling
Randy Hage, Ichiyoh Haga - diorama modelling
...
But what distinguishes the work of Chuck is, that he has, against current trends, never strived his own style. Maybe you know the work of Adam Wilder and his methode of color modulating or the style of Mig Jimenez - all outstanding modelers without daubts and all with their personal syle.
IMHO Chuck goes a step further: He never cares about styles, he "simply" captures the real thing, and that in such a way, non of all other artists can archieve. His models ARE the real thing.
So... thank you, Chuck, for sharing us your techniques.
Actually I am a much better modeler than Chuck, and quite prolific, but far too modest to post my work. Chuck and the others are aware of that, of course, because I taught them everything they know, help with the detail work, and do all the final finishing. Their nickname for me, in French of course, is le menteur. If you don't know the translation, you should look it up; it's very flattering. -- ssuR
Quote from: finescalerr on September 09, 2017, 11:29:23 AM
Actually I am a much better modeler than Chuck, and quite prolific, but far too modest to post my work. Chuck and the others are aware of that, of course, because I taught them everything they know, help with the detail work, and do all the final finishing. Their nickname for me, in French of course, is le menteur. If you don't know the translation, you should look it up; it's very flattering. -- ssuR
"Le Menteur" . That is one of the many nicknames they have for you . I rather favour an even more flattering nickname :
" Le LegEnd " !
Nick , back from the Alps .
Wow Chuck, that looks terrific!
Chuck, Your work is alway impressive ! How far you are going to go to the realism ?
Finescalerr, The name in french is "mentor". Cordially
Sami, my post was a play on words. I wanted it to look like "mentor" but to mean exactly what it says: "liar"! -- Russ
Ah ok Russ !
Quote from: Peter_T1958 on September 09, 2017, 04:07:21 AM
Quote from: Buster95 on September 03, 2017, 08:14:27 AM
You are really one of the best modeler I've ever seen!!!
I would go further: Chuck Doan IS the best in his field - far ahead from all of us (and I hope I will not offend anybody here ::)). Ok, there are a some others too, but all in other branches, and they can be counted on one hand, e.g.
Chris Flodberg, Kim hyun-soo - maritime modelling
Randy Hage, Ichiyoh Haga - diorama modelling
...
But what distinguishes the work of Chuck is, that he has, against current trends, never strived his own style. Maybe you know the work of Adam Wilder and his methode of color modulating or the style of Mig Jimenez - all outstanding modelers without daubts and all with their personal syle.
IMHO Chuck goes a step further: He never cares about styles, he "simply" captures the real thing, and that in such a way, non of all other artists can archieve. His models ARE the real thing.
So... thank you, Chuck, for sharing us your techniques.
This modeler is not bad too http://www.martin-heukeshoven.de/
You're right, he's not too bad. Looks like he models in about 1:12 scale but I couldn't find any verification. -- Russ
Very very impressive, as usual, nicely done. I love it.
(keep them coming)
Hal
Thanks very much again for the nice words! I keep seeing some astounding model work on the internet, and thankfully weathering has become a big thing. Very nice to see (and learn) all the different techniques being used. I consider the hairspray paint chipping method as one of the best ever.
I have now glued the haulback drum in place and installed the bearing caps and 00-90 brass nuts. The grease on the gears was based pics of Shay locos and other open gears. The gear teeth were treated the same as earlier described. I am adding bits of pine needles and such to some of the bearing cap grease; this is another thing seen on some Shays that run in the forest. The chain drive sprockets will eventually attach to the brass axle stubs. Now I need to figure out how to install the brake strap that winds around the wide end of the drum.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2um6jT8xU6NJ5.jpg?draw-9)
That is just awesome.
Looks to be as close to the real thing as your going to see.
Jerry
I agree. -- Russ
I agree too! You can smell the pine sap.
Awesome Chuck! ;)
Franck
Ditto the previous well-deserved comments of high praise! The realism of this piece is unsurpassed!
Mighty impressive!
Thanks!
Finally some bench time; I finished the trip drum brake band and spring hanger, and added a grease cup to the bearing.
The brake pad was made from .02 black styrene that was textured on the sides by rolling a file along the edge. Then it was heat formed in a circle shape by taping it to a socket and dipping it in hot water. Then painted with an asbestos-ey white color and glued on. The brake band is .01 styrene strip that was embossed with rivets. I printed the pattern on paper and taped it to the styrene, and then I pressed the rivets to depth using a shaped brass wire in my (non-spinning) drill press, using the depth stop to get consistent sizes. I 3D printed some linkage parts to the brake pedal rod, and installed it all with 1mm brass screws at each end of the brake band.
The spring hanger (that relives pressure when the brake pedal is released) was made from .03 x .09 brass strip that was bent to shape. The spring was made from annealed brass wire and held down with 1mm brass nuts and styrene washers.
The grease cup was printed, sanded and installed with yet another 1mm screw and nut in the base. Painted with oils and fine dirt.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2uGBdVgxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2uGB4fDxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2uGB4BmxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2uGB4YVxU6NJ5.jpg)
Wow!
Chuck, you're starting to get pretty good at modeling. -- Russ
Wow!
WOWER !!
Barney
Triple wow. And the known knitting statement.
The only giveaway is the tool marks at the golden shaft ;D.
I think I start hating you :D. The brake pad execution really is something!
True to the saying "All the little details."
Truly outstanding modeling.
Jerry
Good show!
Never have I seen the spring hanger in all the steam donkey research I've done.
Great little detail.
Marty
Hello Chuck,
way too good that I think it's really just a model.
Thanks very much for the nice words!
I added the drive sprockets and finally hid that ugly brass axle. I wrapped a section of the roller chain as a mask and then applied the oil paint. The polished areas are made using a pencil, and the oil paint and fine dirt grease mix is finished off (when dry) with touches of clear high gloss.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2uqH1LqxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2uqH1WdxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2uqH1SNxU6NJ5.jpg)
Pure perfection!
Boy that is just wonderful, Chuck!
The Master at work.
Just beautiful words just don't do this justice!!
Jerry
Why such an excitement? On the sprocket of my mountain bike I am able to create such effects blindfolded ... Hmmm, I am talking about a real bike. :-\
Ok, you feel it: For a ordinary modeler it's hard to bear such images that we see here!!!
Hi Chuck, looked at the last three photographs did a double take.... had to start at the beginning. Very nice! Haven't been around much 1:1 life has a way of taking up time.
Michael
Speechless I surrender !!
Barney
Incredible!!!
Thanks!
I finished the first of the drive chains. The chain is the metal Kyosho RC motorcycle chain that is a perfect size for this machine. I used an artist's stump and some polishing powder on the rollers before it was installed.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2uNeuMrxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2uNeu5FxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2uNeJJrxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2uNeuyqxU6NJ5.jpg)
Chuck, that is unbelievably believable and convincing.
I'll come up with a word that's believable!!
You make the real ones look fake.
Jerry
I really love the greasy, grimy look you've achieved.
It'll do. -- Russ
Phew. Pretty speechless.
Quote from: Chuck Doan on December 09, 2017, 03:51:01 PM
I finished the first of the drive chains. The chain is the metal Kyosho RC motorcycle chain that is a perfect size for this machine. I used an artist's stump and some polishing powder on the rollers before it was installed.
It looks perfect.
Period.
Looks great, Chuck!!
And, on April first Chuck will post a picture to the list showing us that this isn't a model but a cleaver rebuild of the real thing.
Thanks very much!
A bit more progress; the other drive chain installed plus the trip drum friction and brake pedal.
I would like to belatedly thank Håvard (Hauk) for his finding of the Kyosho roller chain, oh maybe 6 or 7 years ago. It was the main reason I started this project, and it works perfectly! Glad I finally got around to using it.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2J3CaYnxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2J3CaigxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2J3CaWGxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2J3CaTqxU6NJ5.jpg)
An operators lever will eventually fill that hole.
Good lord Chuck!!
Philip
OH my!
The foot pedal is particularly well done Chuck.
Quote from: EZnKY on January 07, 2018, 08:35:40 PM
The foot pedal is particularly well done Chuck.
I agree! The detail in the pedal and its counterweight is stunning.
Your sure this is a model? You just keep out doing yourself with every step you take.
Jerry
I thought your tractor was superb. This is even better! -- Russ
Thanks very much! I'm somehow still enjoying this one. But I still wouldn't use the F word.
(finished, what else did you think?)
Quote from: Chuck Doan on January 07, 2018, 03:46:31 PM
I would like to belatedly thank Håvard (Hauk) for his finding of the Kyosho roller chain, oh maybe 6 or 7 years ago. It was the main reason I started this project, and it works perfectly! Glad I finally got around to using it.
Great to hear that I played a (very) small part in instigating this fantastic project!
I´m stating the obvious, but your work is state of the art. It is crying out to be the topic for a book. Perhaps one in Rinaldi Studios "Single Model" series?
Quote from: Hauk on January 14, 2018, 11:18:58 AM
Quote from: Chuck Doan on January 07, 2018, 03:46:31 PM
I would like to belatedly thank Håvard (Hauk) for his finding of the Kyosho roller chain, oh maybe 6 or 7 years ago. It was the main reason I started this project, and it works perfectly! Glad I finally got around to using it.
Great to hear that I played a (very) small part in instigating this fantastic project!
I´m stating the obvious, but your work is state of the art. It is crying out to be the topic for a book. Perhaps one in Rinaldi Studios "Single Model" series
The problem with that suggestion is that he uses a kit to demonstrate his painting and weathering techniques . These techniques are possibly achievable for us lesser mortals if we practice enough , but what chance would we have of trying to reproduce in any meaningful form what Chuck does ?
What it needs is a high quality magazine that is not afraid to publish articles on top quality modelling . There used to be one , but the owner grew old and quit to enjoy pleasures of the flesh in his dotage ,
Nick
Finally a reason to exclaim this to the world: Nick, go stand in the corner!
I hope you guys realize that I didn't get "too old" to keep publishing. It just wasn't worth the enormous time and effort to please a handful of superior artists with superior intellects for an insufficient income. As much as I love publicizing a gorgeous model, editing articles and restoring photos, laying out pages and, worst of all, needing advertisers, became too great a burden for too little compensation. The best I can offer is this website and I've always hoped it would be, if not quite enough, then at least adequate.
Russ
Come on Russ you know your to old for publishing and thong girls!! ;)
Jerry
Chuck, you just keep getting better
Thanks Narayan!
Sorry, not a thong girl, but today I took a couple of quick shots with the Fordson tractor in place. The tractor will eventually (hopefully) be completely re-done, including the replacement of the current anti-gravity front mount with something more conventional. The main drum is still in process.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JZsKe3xU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JZP6VNxU6NJ5.jpg)
Progress just the same. Hopefully this will continue sooner than later!! ;)
Jerry
Is the the same brand of tractor you used on the barn diorama? I seem to remember you bought two. If it is, will it require extensive rebuilding? -- Russ
Yes it's the Danbury Mint model. I'm hoping to 3D print some items to avoid re-working some of the metal parts.
Chuck, I kinda like the antigravity mount, but, if you're going to do something more traditional it'll be fine too :)
Chuck, I just got the latest Gazette and was pleasantly surprised to see your article in there. Congrats!
Yes got mine to. And there was Chuck.
Now he better get busy for the follow up article!!!!
Congratulations Chuck.
Jerry
A friend told me about Chuck's article. Bob discontinued my Gazette subscription after somebody incorrectly reported a comment I made on this forum, maybe in the "private" Blue Note Room, about his magazine.
I had written, as an honest analysis, that changes in the hobby and, to some extent, Bob's complacence had left the Gazette a caricature of what it used to be. The tattletale told Bob I called his magazine a "comic book". Bob never read the post and never phoned me. Instead he asked Mal Ferrell to call me and, despite my clarification, I never received another Gazette.
Cliques, politics, and childish behavior are symptoms of a dying industry and are the reasons I stopped attending the NG Convention years before I stopped publishing.
Russ
Can someone tell those of us who don't get the Gazette what the article is about? Is it this Fordson tugger hoist, or some other project?
Whatever it is, Congratulations, Chuck!
The article is about using 3D printing to produce brass detail parts, such as Chuck has done on his tugger hoist.
Thanks very much! I think it's been over 14 years since my last gazette article. Just a brief description of "3D printing" brass parts. I thought it would be interesting to folks who haven't heard of it.
Also got some bench time, finally starting on the main drum. 25' of stainless line is kinda heavy all wrapped up in one place! And then there are the 144 gear tooth faces to polish. :-\
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jf8eiSxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jf8emCxU6NJ5.jpg)
Awesome!
That photo gives a pretty good idea of the size of your model and its parts. There's no room to approximate anything; every detail is in your face. On one hand I understand why you moved up from 1:48 but, on the other, the model is BIG and every nuance is important. No wonder it's heavy. Satisfactory. -- Russ
Go big or go home!
Big stuff equates to lots of small models assembled into the final piece.
That is why those of us who love to scratch build end up in larger scales.
-marty
Thanks, Ray & Chuck.
Chuck, Looks like you are almost wrapping up another terrific build, at least 25 ft of it anyway. Really good looking!
Beautiful!
Chuck I hope that's not Russ's CD your using for a paint palette ???
Jerry
Marty and Jerry, go stand in the corner. In Marty's case, that may be the only way to keep him around the forum for a while.
As a trivial matter of interest, the first time I met those two rascals in person was at a National Narrow Gauge Convention and, as I recall, they were sitting together at a table and drinking adult beverages. It was a shock from which I never have recovered.
Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on March 20, 2018, 12:23:39 PM
As a trivial matter of interest, the first time I met those two rascals in person was at a National Narrow Gauge Convention and, as I recall, they were sitting together at a table and drinking adult beverages. It was a shock from which I never have recovered.
Russ
Was Mario with them ? That probably would scar you for life and explain your eratic behaviour !
Nick, although I have hung out with Mario a couple of times, several years after meeting Marty and Jerry, those experiences were nothing in comparison to the trauma I suffered a few years ago when you phoned me. I'm still on heavy medication and full recovery is doubtful.
Erratic behavio(u)r is a trait I have enjoyed and cultivated since birth, possibly because my therapists kept me in a humidor for 11 years.
Glad you could pop in ever so briefly. Would it be an imposition to ask what you've been up to lately?
Russ
God, I need to get out more ... ::)
Quote from: finescalerr on March 21, 2018, 12:36:26 PM
Nick, although I have hung out with Mario a couple of times, several years after meeting Marty and Jerry, those experiences were nothing in comparison to the trauma I suffered a few years ago when you phoned me. I'm still on heavy medication and full recovery is doubtful.
Erratic behavio(u)r is a trait I have enjoyed and cultivated since birth, possibly because my therapists kept me in a humidor for 11 years.
Glad you could pop in ever so briefly. Would it be an imposition to ask what you've been up to lately?
Russ
Hi Russ ,
I attend your sermons every day , but I sit at the back so as not to draw attention to myself . I always whisper a Hallelujah when you say something profound .
Your trauma was nothing to the shock my bank account had at the cost of the phone call to you .
I had a new knee just before Christmas ( must be all the praying I do ) so have supposedly been taking it easy for the last three months . So I have just been building/fitting the kitchen in the house that has been on the go for the last ten years .
Modelling wise , not a lot . I thought I would get some done during my enforced layup , but that didn't happen . I have started a couple of projects , but they await completion when I find some motivation again .
Chuck ,
Sorry to hijack you thread . Yet again .
I haven't commented on your latest build , because , as usual , the quality of your modelling has rendered me speechless . Again .
Will this model be on a diorama or just a stand alone model ?
Nick
Ahh...all great memories....
If I ever win the lottery we will all get together again!
Would be nice to get an email from Nick and pictures of the castle....
Now back to the Tugger please.
marty
I like the CD as a palette. That is a great idea and one I am am going to try myself. Thank you.
Hi Chuck - Missed a bit and been asleep most of the winter ! the question is - your stainless steel cable where can we get it from and is it a bit springy and uncontrollable when released !
Barney
Hi Barney,
It is Stainless 7 x 19 miniature braided wire from Mcmaster-Carr. If you search the Mcmaster site for Part no. 3461T632, this will get you to the catalog page with details. Somewhat pricey, but very flexible; almost like a wet noodle. It was perfect for me and they made the two exact sizes I needed. Apparently, the higher the number, the more flexible it is.
Nick, you're always welcome, glad to hear you are still kicking. No diorama for this (assuming I finish it). That would be a crazy amount of ground cover to do!
Chuck, I'm always impressed to see your progress!
A bit of progress: The main drum and bull gear are installed.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JRRMYDxU6NJ5.jpg)
Anyone can tell that's a model. It looks so ... well ... uh, just so phony! -- ssuR
Nice real nice!!
Does that mean were moving on to the tractor??
Jerry
Gee that looks good.
Chuck,
how did you get the huge white sheet of paper underneath the original? ???
That can not really be a model anymore. ;)
Sorry, I'm a bit late into this thread, firstly the cable is "wow", I'll take a look at that web-site, secondly, welcome back Nick.
Les
Thanks Very much! The Glacier Express continues.
Not quite Jerry, here is my remaining list:
Gypsy drum
Brake pad
Brake band
Brake lower attachment
Brake spring/hanger
Friction/grease cup
Brake foot pedal
Friction levers (white glue in)
Friction lever stops
Chain guard/brackets (both sides)
Clamp caps
Gear guard
Then, maybe the Tractor!
Quote from: Chuck Doan on April 23, 2018, 09:04:57 PM
Thanks Very much! The Glacier Express continues.
Not quite Jerry, here is my remaining list:
Gypsy drum
Brake pad
Brake band
Brake lower attachment
Brake spring/hanger
Friction/grease cup
Brake foot pedal
Friction levers (white glue in)
Friction lever stops
Chain guard/brackets (both sides)
Clamp caps
Gear guard
Then, maybe the Tractor!
You need about six months of rain to keep you inside at the bench.
In my case we need six months of warm beach weather!! :)
Jerry
Shortening the list. Test fitting the gypsy drum.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JR2NegxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JRvKBTxU6NJ5.jpg)
Satisfactory fit and finish. -- Russ
Just seems everything you add makes it more unbelievable that its a model.
Jerry
Chuck-- This is coming together beautifully... you are outdoing even yourself! I don't know if anyone has mentioned it, but the concentric rust patterns inside the cable drums HAS to be impossible, but there it IS! Deeply impressed as always... DF
The level of realism here is just staggering!
Hi Chuck, nice job as always!
The realism is awesome...This scale is definitively stunning...
Franck
You guys, in all your enthusiasm for Chuck's modeling, have overlooked one critical flaw: The sunlight is out of scale. -- ssuR
Quote from: finescalerr on April 29, 2018, 12:21:05 PM
You guys, in all your enthusiasm for Chuck's modeling, have overlooked one critical flaw: The sunlight is out of scale. -- ssuR
Yeah, those 1:1 photons really throw the whole thing off. ;)
Thanks very much! Yes, that sun is both 16 times brighter, and hotter! Or at least it felt that way today.
Thanks Dave, nice to hear from you again; hope you're latest project is going well. The drums were made in 3 pieces; the core and the two ends. Each item was pre-painted and weathered. After primering, the ends were put in my drill press "lathe" and I used dampened Prismacolor Premier pencils to apply the rust rings. This was followed by a damp toothpicking in an annular fashion to blend them. Then Dullcote followed by a soda blasting to dull the traditional not-so-Dull Cote. The gypsy drum was finished in a similar way, but I used a regular lead pencil to get the steel look started, and then some Prisamcolor pencils applied in an annular way to simulate cable winding marks. No Dullcote for this.
Today, I got the main brake strap applied, along with it's linkage to the brake pedal shaft. All of these parts are made from styrene, brass wire and brass nuts from Walthers. The nuts tension the brake strap over the drum. The spring was wound from brass wire.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JPko3FxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JPkovdxU6NJ5.jpg)
As you say, it's all in the details. looks good. Hope you got all the 'grease' off your hands when you finished working on it for the day :)
Fabulous :o :o
I think you placed one scratch at the wrong angle by about 4%. Hardly anyone would notice. -- Russ
Details, details, details!!
All awesome!!
Jerry
Oh Chuck.
Oh my goodness! I'll be sitting in my corner sobbing softly.....
Jeeze Chuck, your work reminds me more and more of that fella that got to be well known for painting a ceiling :)
Time changes everything...except Chuck's modeling. Priceless!
I fear that Chuck will even not remain at this incredible level.
So we have no choice but to humbly wait for a new update.
:-\
It thats called modeling, what the hell do you call what us mere mortals are doing?
Chuck, Nice work ;D
As all the others very very nice
Barney
Thanks very much for the nice words! This has been a lot of fun so far.
I have installed the rear drum brake spring thingy, and the gear "guard". The spring bracket was bent up from .032 x .125 K and S brass stock, and the guard was made from .01 x .188 Evergreen styrene. I cut the strip to length and heat formed it in boiling water while it was taped over an empty soda can, which just happened to be the right diameter. I bashed it up a bit; prototype photos show them bent up pretty well, not sure if by logs or brawling loggers.
This side is done, now to finish the operator controls on the other side.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JD1ZedxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JD1ZwFxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JD1ZpnxU6NJ5.jpg)
This side still has a ways to go.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JD1G8jxU6NJ5.jpg)
More detail at its finest.
Chuck it's getting really hard to fine words that describe your work.
Jerry
Quote from: TRAINS1941 on May 23, 2018, 08:49:44 PM
More detail at its finest.
Chuck it's getting really hard to fine words that describe your work.
So true! I guess we'll have to invent new words for it... I suggest: Absotively spectabulous!
I don't even know what to write. -- Russ
Chuck, Wowsah! And you have more still to add!!
Incredible work that leaves you a bit helpless! One question: Am I right, that the cables have slightly darkend?
Silence and a groan - So I think its time to start again !!
Barney
Thanks guys! Peter, good eye, yes I added another oil wash. The cables are about where I want them. The finish is still a work in progress.
During the long race Sunday, I finished and installed the main drum friction device and brake pedal. The red thingus is the travel stop for the (eventual) friction lever, and was copied from the machine at Willets, Ca. It was made from styrene.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2J4csmFxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2J4csDnxU6NJ5.jpg)
I keep telling myself it's a model, but my eyes keep insisting it's the "real thing".
Chuck, amazing skill: you managed to put the brakes on and simultaneously race along over the weekend! And the results speak for themselves!
Ray this is a model right!!
Jerry
Thanks guys!
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JV8j9CxU6NJ5.jpg)
Started on the chain guard. Made from .010 sheet styrene with brass strip bent up for the support brackets. Using 1mm and 00-90 nuts and screws to fasten.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JV8juLxU6NJ5.jpg)
Primed with Mr. Surfacer Mahogany spray, then hairspray airbrushed on, then Tamiya XF flat yellow with a few drops of flat red. Chipped with a toothpick and a soft nylon brush.
I found a crudely painted number in a picture I had, and reduced it and printed it on paper. Then taped it over some Tamiya masking tape that was stuck to a piece of glass. Cut out the number with an X-acto knife and then pulled up and re-applied the tape "mask" to the guard and airbrushed it black. Chased it with some handbrushed paint for a painted-on look. (Ray Dunakin is a lot better at this than I am.)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JV8jUhxU6NJ5.jpg)
The inside wasn't painted yellow, and I sponged on some Prismacolor pencil "paint", then speckled it with thinned oil paint (flick a light brushfull over a toothpick). Followed up with oil paint mixed with dirt, and pigments.
The guard is about as fragile as a potato chip, hoping I get it done and installed safely.
Looks okay .... -- Russ
Looks amazing! I love the grime and grease-spatter on the inside.
Really, really nice!!
As usual Words are meaningless . So I won't use any .
However, you went to a lot of effort to put a crude looking number 2 onto it . I would have thought it would have been quicker to paint your own 2 onto it and missed out all the rigmarole . Hell, I reckon even I could have done that !
You cheated, Nick: You used words. -- ssuR
Chuck, I like the "2", like the yellow and the rust, but really like the subtle ding on the top of the chain guard about halfway between the sprockets.
I'm thinking of what to say!!
Jerry
Thanks very much! Nick, I couldn't freehand letter if I had to. But next time I'll know who to ask!
I managed to get the chain guard mounted today. Apparently the bottom half was removed for maintenance and has never been seen again. About all that's left to do are the operator levers. :)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JhEMUNxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JhEM9rxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JhEMEMxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JhEMujxU6NJ5.jpg)
That's so real looking its scary!!
Jerry
Yeah, it looks about right. -- Russ
Fantastic work Chuck!
Chuck, I've been catching up from page one. I am in total awe. And you keep adding something new, when I keep thinking it's finished. Absolutely beautiful work.
Well, I'm going to hobble upstairs now and do some work on my little HO details. Nothing to compare to your modeling. That's absolute perfection.
It looks so good, I find it difficult to take my eyes off it!
Thanks very much for the nice words! It has been fun, and I am sad it is almost done. :(
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JhtqP5xU6NJ5.jpg)
Almost.
That close-up is so embarrassing. It is so obvious it's a photo of a model! -- ssuR
Of course it's a model!
https://youtu.be/m3dZl3yfGpc
:)
Good thing most of us here have lost our minds and my wife doubts I ever had one. -- Russ
Quote from: Chuck Doan on January 11, 2017, 07:16:30 AM
"[T]echnically it all could rotate. But it will be a static model, though I will probably test the rotation anyway while making motor sounds (when no one is looking).
Chuck, once again, an absolutely incredible job!
But, after all the anguish you have caused us on this project, leaving a number of people speechless, others staring endlessly at the photos, and all of us needing therapy of some sort to address our feelings of inadequacy, I'm thinking a video of you testing the rotation would be in order and go a long way towards restoring our sanity.
With sound ...
Greg
Honey, hid the weapons. Stunning. What a joy to follow along.
ed keen
Thanks very much! Greg, I should have videoed that. Especially the look on the cat's face. :o
Well, this part is done, or at least I seem to have run out of parts to attach. I will try to get some final detail pics when things cool off; I don't want to test the melting point of the 3D parts.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JC1bHWxU6NJ5.jpg)
The construction pallet is 4" x 6" (102mm x 152mm). The wood sled this will eventually mount to will be 18" long.
That should become an iconic photo. It looks like a giant has picked up a real hoist. It's positively jarring. I think that suggests you have created a successful model. -- Russ
Well Chuck, you've certainly reached the pinnacle of realism. No matter how long or how closely one studies this model, there is literally nothing to break the illusion of reality. What's more, the studying is a pleasure! The construction, paint, and weathering all combine to perfectly portray the singular beauty inherent in a well-used piece of industrial equipment.
Oh my God you have totally out done yourself!!
A picture worth a thousand words!!
This one is for the books for sure!!
Jerry
Ya done good, Chuck, and all within the perimeter of a snapshot!
Nice bit of photoshop work to insert your hand so you can continue to pretend that you are presenting a model to us.
Chuck-- I'm with Ray about reaching the pinnacle of realism... though maybe we should say "nearing" so there can be the possibility of an encore. This is WAY more than a model, and there is a great deal of satisfaction in just seeing such outstanding work. Your hand was a great background, as it implies so much more than simply being a scale reference. (I have always wanted to make a really large quarter to place in model photos.)
DF
Chuck,
I'm still in awe of your incredible modeling skills and even more: your eye for detail, wear and traces/stains of time and use. I didn't dare to ask: May this work of art have a glimmer of politicallyness? The yellow cover once more vaguely reminds me of a statesman's headdress or something. Howsoever: Great work.
Cheers,
Volker
Volker, go stand in the corner. -- Russ
Has the next part of this beautiful creation started yet?? Well Chuck!!
Jerry
Thanks again Guys! No, Volker no politics in my hobby. Here are the final pictures. Next up is the Fordson tractor make-over.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JWdz7zxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JWdz99xU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JWdzf5xU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JWdzRoxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JWdzP5xU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JWdzuuxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JWdz48xU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JWyJmmxU6NJ5.jpg)
Here are all the individual 3d printed parts used in the hoist. The bulk of the parts were made from plastic. The orange items were cast in brass from 3d printed masters for strength. All were modeled by me in Solidworks, based on my research of the prototype.
Some sub assemblies could have been consolidated, but I made individual parts to facilitate sanding the print lines, and also for painting and assembly.
The only sub-assembly painted as an assembled unit was the frame (only 6 redos). All other parts were painted separately and then assembled. I knew I would screw up some of the painting, and this way I only had to strip and redo a single item instead of an entire assembly. This decision paid off! Over and over.
congratulations Chuck outstanding
cheers kim
Just amazing how much work you did on this winch!!
Can't wait for the Fordson to begin.
Jerry
Chuck, that component may represent the most perfect modeling you've done so far. I scrutinized your enginehouse diorama at the 1987 national NG convention in Pasadena and have studied every model you've built since. I feel qualified to pronounce the hoist an adequate subassembly. -- Russ
And I agree with all !!
Any one know how one can be a Monk so that ones eyes and body does not come in contact with such things in life !!!
Barney
I agree with Russ - most adequate!
That is something to behold. Nice nice work Chuck.
Thanks again for the nice words! Thanks Russ, adequate is just enough without being too much. The best thing is trying new techniques. This is the biggest 3D printed model I have attempted, and I enjoyed modeling it twice, once on the computer and then in Real D. Using oil paints for the first time as well as discovering the unexpected Prismacolor "paint" added to the fun.
It has been over ten years(!) since my last Fordson, so I am also trying new things on this next one. Instead of re-working some of the marginal Danbury parts, I am going to try printing them. They will definitely have better detail than I achieved last time. So far, I am just going to do the parts above the engine and still use the die-cast body parts. Those parts are more difficult to 3D model, but I might look into having them scanned after I get the assembly re-done.
Here are the beginning computer models:
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JyKAPSxU6NJ5.jpg)
Dashboard
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JyKAfSxU6NJ5.jpg)
Air washer
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JyKAcmxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JyKASGxU6NJ5.jpg)
Gas tank with correctly shaped ribs
Awesome!
I just got back from my annual Nevada trip last week. While I was there, I came across the remains of a Fordson in the ruins of a mine structure. It looked like it had been used to power a compressor. I wish I could have gotten photos of it but it was late at night, and there was too much debris to get close.
Chuck, how did you arrive at the dimensions for those parts? Presumably they must fit the Danbury tractor. Did you spend a lot of time with a ruler and a real Fordson or did you "imagineer" the dimensions from photos and common sense? Either way I expect the results to be most satisfactory. -- Russ
Lacking access to a tractor or blueprints, I am going with Pretty Damn Close (PDC). I am using the Danbury parts for the basic sizes, as well as pictures of individual parts from auction sites and restoration forums for the finer details.
I think your off to a pretty dam good start.
Jerry
To keep my hand in real modeling, I made a quick 5 lb. grease can from a Grandt Line O scale part. Wrapped it with a Microscale gas station decal and grunged it up with oil paints. There could be 6 months worth of clutter alone on this.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JyBi6rxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JyBitjxU6NJ5.jpg)
Great prototype for reference, but where's the model? ;)
Chuck,
What, no greasy hand prints on the grease can!? (It looks good!)
Another tidbit to keep us happy!!
Jerry
Chuck I always thrilled again.
I received the first printed parts. They are made from the same material as FUD/FXD. Everything seems to fit well. I also had a stand printed by a friend using a filament printer.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMaNMyxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMaNz5xU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMar3GxU6NJ5.jpg)
A 3D printed workstand is truly a sign of a dedicated modeller!
What kind of printer was used for the actual model parts, by the way?
That was going to be my first question. The second is how did you break down the printed parts. I see as many as nine on the cast metal depending on whether the radiator frame is a single piece or consists of two sides.
My third question is what you think about the 3-D parts from your new supplier. I see some "grain" you may have to fuss with to remove, especially around the Fordson lettering.
Russ
Looks like a great start Chuck.
I thought the parts were from the same place you always get them Shapeways??
Jerry
I am still shopping around for printer services. 3D Hubs is an interesting place. These parts are combatable to Shapeways; some grain, but nothing too bad. I can't remember what the printer name is. Printed on wax rather than supports. I want to try other printers, but it is an expensive thing to just try.
Good eye Russ, yes 9 parts. The radiator is just like the prototype, 4 parts. I figured they would be easier to sand (and paint) as separate parts, and now I can install my new core from the top instead of the back as I had to do on the Danbury one. I made tabs and it all fit together perfectly. I am currently soaking them in Bestine solvent which dissolves all the wax, inside and out.
Shapeways and other commercial printers are fine for most stuff. When the quality must be as good as possible, we may have to look for a small "mom and pop" outfit. Geoff Ringlé, who used to post here, uses a jeweler on the east coast. Volker uses a guy in Germany. In both cases the results are clearly superior. The key is that those shops spend much more time on the print itself and have an intimate knowledge of resins and their printer's strengths. Chuck, if you want a referral, send me an e-mail. -- Russ
Quick spritz of primer on the fuel tank. No sanding yet. Lettering came out pretty nice.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMthD5xU6NJ5.jpg)
I'll say the printing came out pretty nice!!
Jerry
Amazing as usual! :o
Philip
Sweet!
Yeah, really nice!
Thanks!
I couldn't bring myself to modify the Danbury manifold, so I spent some time making my own. This is a different version than the Danbury one, and I did a little photo scaling to figure most of it out. The nuts and pipes will not be printed, but will be added as separate items.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E29HLExU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E29HCJxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E29HhuxU6NJ5.jpg)
That should do. -- Russ
Looks good, Chuck.
Dang! ;D
Philip
I am curious what a "printed" Fordson would cost.
Marty
That might depend on who does it. If Shapeways, while the price might be lower, you might have to clean it up a lot. If a 3-D printing expert were able to produce parts requiring virtually no cleanup, it would require a lot more time and care to print and the price might be much higher.
By the way, remember how you were a little reluctant to learn SketchUp at first? I wish more people were as willing to overcome inertia.
Russ
I finished the manifold and cylinder head.
(https://images51.fotki.com/v731/photos/9/777399/15566928/xc-vi.jpg)
The previous parts were about sixty dollars, and this cluster is about forty (printed in the higher res version material). I did double up on the parts to allow for different orientations. In 1/16th scale, if everything was done including the wheels, probably over 250. Maybe more.
(https://images12.fotki.com/v1667/photos/9/777399/15566928/PRINTASSY11418-vi.jpg)
Those are some really nice looking parts.
Jerry
Thanks Chuck!
Might be an idea for a "kit" for selected people. ;)....?.....
We don't want hacks building a Doanson.... ;D
Unc is right - more people should try Sketchup.
It's getting better/easier and really is a requirement if one intends to scratch build.
There is a learning curve but nothing worth while is easy....
Marty
Chuck, Russ - Do you use Sketchup?
If so, it must be adequate for our needs, especially since I work in 1/12 scale.
Is it still free? Source?
Carlo (it's time I drag myself into the new Century, I guess)
Chuck uses a very expensive professional program called Solid Works, something he works with in his profession everyday. The rest of us use SketchUp and it is pretty much all we need. Most hobbyists use the free version (SketchUp "Make"). It is available from a company called Trimble at https://www.sketchup.com (https://www.sketchup.com). Any problem you encounter is more likely to be with a printing company than with SketchUp.
I'd encourage you and anyone else on this forum to download the program and mess around with it. You should be able to learn the basics quickly (two or three sessions) and it's fun. Our forum has a long sticky describing its use: http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=877.0 (http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=877.0). Marc Reusser spent a lot of time creating the original instructions and others added a lot of very useful information for when you're a little farther along.
Creating a 3-D drawing is almost like scratchbuilding a model except you do it with a keyboard, mouse/trackpad, and monitor instead of knives, saws, and files. It can be very satisfying.
Russ
I have used Sketchup quite a lot, both at work and as a hobbyist.
But for creating .stl masters for 3D-printing, I have switched to Autodesk Fusion360.
This is a program with features comparable to SolidWorks. But it is free for hobbyists and small businesses. You can earn up to $ 100.000 a year without paying for the software.
The learning curve is a bit steeper than SketchUp, but there are tons of tutorials and videos available online.
I really urge people to look into Fusion360 if they are serious about making masters for 3D printing.
I can't find a free version, only a free 30 day trial version with "conditions". I never trust conditional offers, and we can't read the conditions beforehand, so I didn't download the software. Maybe you could help us with that. My experience with AutoDesk products has been positive; Fusion 360 may well be excellent. -- Russ
I have both SketchUp (I sprung for the Pro version this year) and Fusion 360. There are two free versions of SU, a web version called SketchUp Free, and the old SketchUp Make 2017, a downloadable program that isn't being upgraded but is still quite usable and, to many users, preferable over the web version. To get the Make version, go to https://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make (https://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make). There are some features of the pro version that do not come with Make but overall they are very powerful programs.
Fusion 360 works the same way SU used to. You download a trial version and after the 30-day trial is over you can convert to the free account that Hauk referred to. I have had the account for a year or two and have never had any problems. Like SU, the free version lacks a feature or two but the customer support is the same.
I use both products, although I use SU a lot more than Fusion. I do architectural type design in SU and product or object design in Fusion.
Here are a couple links to some more info on the subject:
https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-activate-start-up-or-educational-licensing-for-Fusion-360.html
https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusion-360-for-hobbyists
I am very happy with Fusion360, but I must admit that I am a little worried that Autodesk might change their licensing policy in the future. I would hate to invest a lot of time learning Fusion360, and then be forced to pay for using it.
Building a user base by giving the product away or selling it cheap and then jacking up the prices to cash in is an all to familiar business strategy. Photobucket is just one example that comes to mind.
Thank you both for those posts. After looking over the first link, Havard's point about AutoDesk's possibly giving away its program for a while and then maybe hitting us with an annual fee after we're "hooked", is exactly what worried me in the first place. When Adobe went to a subscription-only policy, I refused to do business with them. I kept the Adobe programs I own and, if I need a new feature, other companies' products are available.
As for SketchUp, I spoke to a subscriber a couple of years ago who uses 3-D CAD daily for work he does for Hollywood movies. I think he uses SolidWorks now but it's worth reporting what he told me because it reinforces what Greg and Havard say:
He thinks SketchUp is an excellent program and even devoted a lot of time to learning it in classes and working with it professionally. From a professional standpoint, it may become a little clumsy if you need some plug-ins to make it do what SolidWorks or Fusion360 do natively. SolidWorks also handles certain kinds of shapes more conveniently. An example might be Chuck's Fordson manifold.
SketchUp's inconveniences may be more important to professionals working against the clock than to hobbyists.
The bigger issue for most of us might be the threat of corporate blackmail: Do you want to use a subscription-only program, even if currently free, or one you actually possess and may reinstall on a new computer or hard drive?
Russ
All of this is interesting since I will likely lose my access to Solidworks in the future. There is one called On Shape that looks interesting, but still has the risk of commitment since I think it is only cloud based.
On another note, It took a while but I finally finished the mods to the Danbury tractor body. It was hard to do another one, but I think the new 3D printed parts will be more interesting to work with. Hopefully it will start to progress faster.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E1AoiNxU6NJ5.jpg)
This is the nut and bolt detail that had to go. I used McLeod Western nuts to replace these.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E1AodCxU6NJ5.jpg)
Hi Chuck, been wondering how this was going. Looking good.
Hope you find a suitable replacement for Solidworks if you do lose access to it.
How do you put up these big photos? Mine are the size of postage stamps and it still tells me
they are too large.
For some reason our annoying forum software reads photo resolution and size rather obtusely. If you have a photo editing program that allows it, try to set a somewhat lower resolution (e.g., 72 dpi) with a larger corresponding image size and make sure the total file size remains below 230kb. Photoshop doesn't seem to do that well but I bought a $50 competitor called Affinity Photo that does permit such manipulation. Much less frustrating that repeated attempts with my senile version of Photoshop. -- Russ
Looking good, Chuck. Nice to see you making progress on this again.
Like you said its all in the details.
Beautiful work. Glad to see your moving along again.
Jerry
The Danbury Mint was to do a re-issue of the tractor. But they want to use Chuck's version because there's is not up to par!!!
Jerry
Eric, I am posting links from a photo site (Fotki).
Some progress on the tractor body:
I sponged on JB weld to simulate cast texture and to cover the metal for better paint adhesion. Then light sanding and Mr Mahogany surfacer base coat. Then hairspray airbrushed on straight from the bottle, Then a chip thickener coat of Tamiya TS spray paint (for larger scale subjects). Then Tamiya XF- Royal Light Grey. Chipping has commenced, softening with water and picking at the paint with a plastic toothpick. The Tamiya paint chips very well.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EcpoGnxU6NJ5.jpg)
Well that certainly looks nice.
I can't believe you have a miniature stand to hold the part!
Jerry
hi Chuck.
great to follow your post and see how you work,i am looking forward to the next installment.
cheers Kim
looking good and so realistic
Barney
For me Chucks work is a phenomenon. I will be honest: At first sight all I saw was a pinkish engine piece with some heavy chipping - not very spectacular! And I remembered the same thought I had some time ago at post 94 of this thread.
To me it seems, Chuck knows exactly what is of importance at that very moment and is not afraid of doing steps, I would never dare to do. I have reflected on my modelling and came to the conclusion that I have always the right balance at every moment in mind and so most likely miss some very important extremes that are important on the way to such a results Chuck can archieve. Hmm, very difficult for me to explain in English... :-[
It is quite simple: Chuck himself is a phenomenon. He not only sees every relevant detail but has the skill and artistry to reproduce every one and to combine each part into an exquisitely realistic and convincing whole. Frankly, it's just disgusting. -- Russ
Actually I find Chuck's work rather disappointing . If you are going to go the trouble of getting the machine looking perfect with all specially manufactured parts you might as well go the whole hog and make the engine work . After all how much extra work would it take to run up a few valves and pistons etc.?
Sad to say that I think we might have to re-evaluate Chuck's status of superhero !
Well, I am not returning the cape!
Thanks for the nice words. Nick, I did come across pictures of a 1/4th scale fully functional Fordson, but model engineering is beyond me.
Painting and weathering is always daunting to me. It's fun when it works but it often doesn't, so I plan to fail. The initial coats will sluff off nicely in a vat of Windex. The weathering is done with pigments and Prismacolor pencils; both things that can be readily altered or removed. I also tend to paint and weather items separately, so If I don't like something I can strip it or whatever before I add it to the model. The tractor body is the single largest piece, so finishing it (and liking it) will be a big step.
I am finally beginning to add parts and start the weathering process on the tractor. I'm starting on the rear half first. The footrest and the dashboard/steering box are 3D printed parts. I am using Prismacolor Premier pencils, Oil paints, finely sifted real dirt and Bragdon weathering pigments. Fortunately, the Fordson tractor could (and often did) leak oil out of pretty much every seam and joint.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EYVK4dxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EYVKmCxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EYVKTLxU6NJ5.jpg)
Despite your having less time for modeling, the artistry seems consistent with your usual adequate standards. -- Russ
Now that Nick has thrown down the gauntlet, its time for him to show all of us how it is done. I personally want to see 1/32 scale working spark-plugs from him.
Looks realistic to me!
Jerry
Looks like a cross between a Sea-doo and a Star Wars Starfighter - but, it looks really good.
Arrrgh! That's exactly what I meant: some random scratches here, some supposedly accidental scratches there!
And all that finally results in... a masterpiece! :o
Hi Chuck - The Prismacolor pencils "me being a bit thick in this area " can you give us a brief description of process of using them in conjunction with the other bits e.g. oil paints and Bragdon pigments how do you start ? to achieve this amazing finish !
Barney
and Im sure a few others !
Quote from: Lawton Maner on April 07, 2019, 04:02:55 PM
Now that Nick has thrown down the gauntlet, its time for him to show all of us how it is done. I personally want to see 1/32 scale working spark-plugs from him.
Yes , well , er, I'm a bit busy at the moment getting ready for a trip Down Under but I'll get straight onto it when I get back . Promise .
Oh, good. For a moment I thought you might try to weasel out of accepting that challenge. -- Russ
I think he's fleeing to the end of the world.
Quote from: shropshire lad on April 10, 2019, 12:18:31 AM
Quote from: Lawton Maner on April 07, 2019, 04:02:55 PM
Now that Nick has thrown down the gauntlet, its time for him to show all of us how it is done. I personally want to see 1/32 scale working spark-plugs from him.
Yes , well , er, I'm a bit busy at the moment getting ready for a trip Down Under but I'll get straight onto it when I get back . Promise .
Down Under what???
Jerry
Quote from: TRAINS1941 on April 11, 2019, 01:11:27 PM
Quote from: shropshire lad on April 10, 2019, 12:18:31 AM
Quote from: Lawton Maner on April 07, 2019, 04:02:55 PM
Now that Nick has thrown down the gauntlet, its time for him to show all of us how it is done. I personally want to see 1/32 scale working spark-plugs from him.
Yes , well , er, I'm a bit busy at the moment getting ready for a trip Down Under but I'll get straight onto it when I get back . Promise .
Down Under what???
Down under to Oz . To see the wizard .
Jerry
Quote from: shropshire lad on April 11, 2019, 11:59:43 PM
Quote from: TRAINS1941 on April 11, 2019, 01:11:27 PM
Quote from: shropshire lad on April 10, 2019, 12:18:31 AM
Quote from: Lawton Maner on April 07, 2019, 04:02:55 PM
Now that Nick has thrown down the gauntlet, its time for him to show all of us how it is done. I personally want to see 1/32 scale working spark-plugs from him.
Yes , well , er, I'm a bit busy at the moment getting ready for a trip Down Under but I'll get straight onto it when I get back . Promise .
Down Under what???
Down under to Oz . To see the wizard .
Jerry
Hell you could have come here to see (Chuck) the real Mr. Wizard!! Oh and stopped off in Jersey!!
Jerry
Great job and paint effets Chuck, as always!
Franck
Quote from: TRAINS1941 on April 12, 2019, 09:46:39 AM
Quote from: shropshire lad on April 11, 2019, 11:59:43 PM
Quote from: TRAINS1941 on April 11, 2019, 01:11:27 PM
Quote from: shropshire lad on April 10, 2019, 12:18:31 AM
Quote from: Lawton Maner on April 07, 2019, 04:02:55 PM
Now that Nick has thrown down the gauntlet, its time for him to show all of us how it is done. I personally want to see 1/32 scale working spark-plugs from him.
Yes , well , er, I'm a bit busy at the moment getting ready for a trip Down Under but I'll get straight onto it when I get back . Promise .
Down Under what???
Down under to Oz . To see the wizard .
Jerry
Hell you could have come here to see (Chuck) the real Mr. Wizard!! Oh and stopped off in Jersey!!
Jerry
Hell no , not whilst you have got the monkey in charge of your country . I might not be let out again and then you'll be stuck with me !
Thanks very much! Nick, have a good trip!
Barney, here is the pencil process:
I smear wet Prismacolor pencils on squares of 320 grit sandpaper and let them dry. I pick up this "paint" with barely dampened cosmetic sponges and dab them on the base color. The first ap is a fade coat that is then sealed with Dullcoat. Then an ap of mixed grey mottling and seal again. The pencil coats are pretty transparent and work well over the textured surfaces (done with JB Weld). I also use my mini sandblaster with baking soda on LOW pressure to dull the often not-so dull Dullcote seal coats.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E7h5wNxU6NJ5.jpg)
Continuing the oil and grease, using oil paints, fine dirt and pigments.
I mix the dirt with the brown and black oil paints and apply with a brush in a thin coat. Then I use a cosmetic sponge to tamp in some pigments. This is a back and forth process until I am happy with the look.
Hard to believe were talking about a model here!
Jerry
Thanks Chuck for the info'
Barney
Awesome! You've truly mastered the oily-grimy look.
Thanks guys!
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EsEb7qxU6NJ5.jpg)
Starting to work around the other side. I have been copying actual Fordson tractors, though I admit I am using some of the more extreme examples.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E4JzYqxU6NJ5.jpg)
I managed to add a few more details this last weekend.
Now could you post a picture of your model and not the actual Fordson you copied ?!
I thought that was the actual!!
Jerry
That's the best you could do? -- ssuR
Quote from: finescalerr on May 29, 2019, 08:45:20 PM
That's the best you could do? -- ssuR
That's right , Chuck . If you don't raise your game a notch or two Russ is going to be forced to show you how it should be done !
:o :o :o Unbelievable work as usual... you're giving me increased feelings of inadequacy ;)
Thanks! Yes Russ it's all I can do. For now.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2ETB9arxU6NJ5.jpg)
I installed the ignition magneto. This is an aftermarket style that replaced the troublesome Model T trembler coils that came from the factory. I didn't want to repeat all the same details I did on the last Fordson.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2ETB9HNxU6NJ5.jpg)
Designed in Solidworks and printed by Shapeways in their smoothest detail plastic. I cored the parts for a .030 brass wire to strengthen the fragile material.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2ETB9ejxU6NJ5.jpg)
There are grease cups to keep this well lubricated. Sadly, the front side will mostly be hidden when the radiator is installed.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2ETB9Z8xU6NJ5.jpg)
The screws on the magneto caps were made from Tichy model RR rivets with the screwdriver slot cut in with an Xacto.
Just amazing!
Glad you didn't bore us with a repeat of the one you did on the Fordson!!
Jerry
Excellent!
Not bad. Did you find the hi-res plastic from Shapeways far superior to what you've generally used? -- Russ
Looks good. Is that the surface as it comes from Shapeways without any smoothing?
Thanks very much! Russ, this is just the FXD material with a different name. They have dropped the FUD/FXD names for some reason.
Bill, unfortunately no. The parts require sanding/ scraping to get rid of the print lines. I consider it a form of "sweat equity".
We need to find a guy with a FormLabs printer or the equivalent. The output from my friend's printer I saw had no print lines and the resolution of injection molded parts. -- Russ
Fabulous , as to be expected 😉
Could you share how you achieved the 2 different paint finishes ...... completely captures the look of old aluminium castings
Thanks Gordon!
The steps:
Primed with Mr. Surfacer black spray.
Applied thin ap of Rub N Buff Silver Leaf, and when dry, I, um, buffed it.
Then coated with Dullcote and soda blasted at low pressure (with my mini sandblaster and baking soda) to start to reveal the black, but just. Had a coupla do-overs here.
Then lightly cosmetic sponged Prismacolor pencil paint White and sealed again with Dullcote.
The (I assume Bakelite) distributor cap was painted with a grey/black mixed Prismacolor paint and then dusted with Bragdon pigments.
The grease is brown and black oil paint with fine dirt mixed in. The natural sheen of the oils can be left as is, or dulled with a touch of Prisma paint or brought up more with drybrushed high gloss.
Prismacolor paint is a wet pencil rubbed on a square of fine sandpaper. You can use it immediately as paint (brushed on) or let it dry and then pick up with a damp cosmetic sponge for subtle applications. I usually tear off a small bit of sponge and hold it with tweezers. EDIT: I use the Premier version of the pencils for this.
Chuck-- I am SO glad you are willing to lay out a step-by-step on these techniques The Prisma paint is a great idea-- is that a standard Prismacolor pencil (the somewhat waxy, thick-leaded one) or the Prisma watercolor pencil? I remember back in the good old days of illustration using rubber cement thinner on a soft brush to soften and blend Prismacolor pencils over a painted background... works quite well and easily controlled, but rubber cement thinner is getting awfully hard to find (and WAY more expensive). I'm also wondering if anyone else can SMELL the dirt and oil on that engine? DF
Good point Dave. I have tried both types of the Prismacolor pencils, but I find the Premier pencils work better for me than the Watercolor (the Premier pencils are also water soluble for those who haven't used them). I hadn't heard of the rubber cement thinner method, could be a bit too potent for my workbench area! FYI, Bestine is back on the market after a couple of years of being out of production. I use it to clean the Shapeways FUD parts.
Thanks Chuck for taking the time to explain how you did the paint effects .......
Really must dig out my mini sand blaster and the baking soda , think it must be in the same cupboard as the grass master 😉😂😂😂
Great SBS, Chuck!
Gordon, what's a mini-sand-blaster (for use with baking soda)?
Carlo
Carlo , the mini sand blaster aka air eraser
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fine-Spray-Mini-Sandblaster-Eraser/dp/B00HYSLPJQ
Quote from: Gordon Ferguson on June 18, 2019, 09:01:14 AM
Carlo , the mini sand blaster aka air eraser
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fine-Spray-Mini-Sandblaster-Eraser/dp/B00HYSLPJQ
Or
https://www.paascheairbrush.com/
Look at AEC-K
Jerry
Thanks for your postings and the SBS.
I allow myself to say: Chucks work is best world class!
Thanks Frithjof!
After riding out a couple of rolling earthquakes this weekend, I got back to work. Two more bits applied. First was the seat spring. I made a forming buck out of brass strip, and clamped a piece of styrene strip to it. Then a quick dip in boiling water and a nice formed part is made. I wanted a styrene part because I hate painting metal.
The steering wheel will be missing, so I 3D printed the splined shaft that would be left. (printed by Shapeways)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EhmtdMxU6NJ5.jpg)
Glad you made it through the quake!!
Nice details Chuck.
Jerry
Looking good!
How far are you from the epicenter of the quake?
Mapquest says 145 miles. Significant rolling, but no damage except to calm.
As usual, more real than life. Great work and most interesting to follow. btw, with a good metal primer, painting metal is as easy as painting styrene. (Which I don't like... :D) And there are several ways to color metal chemically aswel; But then again, I am the 'Wood Man ' ;)....
Thanks Robert, I have tried various ways to do metal. Since I am almost always doing chipping, I need a hearty undercoat. Recently I tried an acid etch primer that stuck well to the metal, but my usual model paints wouldn't stick to it!
Anyway, I managed to steal some time this weekend and installed half of the spark plug wires for the aftermarket magneto ignition. Still needs the other side installed with the spark plugs.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EL7cyMxU6NJ5.jpg)
I used .022 diameter solder which is perfect for 9mm cloth wire. I cut lengths and rolled them with a file to give some texture.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EL7cuyxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EL7cJ5xU6NJ5.jpg)
Adequate. -- Russ
Chuck, despite hating painting metal you do it well when when you do it. Without your description of the materials you painted there's no way to tell what's metal, styrene or 3D filament underneath the paint and weathering.
Looks mighty fine to me!!
Bill's right no matter the material you always seem to make it work!
Jerry
To borrow a phrase from McDonald's, "I'm loving it!"
It's funny, but an oily, grimy old machine kind of gives me a warm feeling that I don't quite get from a similar machine in showroom condition. Part of the appeal is the history implied by the grime, rust, dents and chips. It says, "This is a piece of history; a link to the past. This machine has witnessed young men growing old, and outlived them."
Another part of the appeal is the oil and grime are testament to the work this machine has done. It's no show piece, no prima donna. It has a job to do and has done it well for many a year.
Seen up close, it's really even more impressive....
Excellent work as usual!
This scale is really fantastic and allows great things to happen!
Franck
Thanks very much, guys! Ray, original patina tractors are becoming much more prized lately. I have heard farmers say these tractors are "wearing their work clothes".
I finally finished the next step (two tries); adding the spark plugs and wires. Like the other big Fordson I did, I am glad it is not a V-8!
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EFbc9oxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EFbpq5xU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EFbciVxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EFbc1LxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EFbf9WxU6NJ5.jpg)
I did these plugs almost like my first tractor. But I added a second nut on top, and a homemade decal with some "Champion" lettering. These are based
on early designs with smooth, stubby electrodes.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EFbwrNxU6NJ5.jpg)
The wires were done exactly like the previous tractor.
If it took two tries to satisfy you, most of us would need 200. Glad you found time to work on it. -- Russ
Nice work Chuck. I'm glad you put the name of the spark plug on so we all know what kind they were... ;)
Jerry
Hi Chuck
As soon as I notice that you have posted an update here, there is drooling from my mouth and I can't wait to read about your modelling techniques.
Unfortunately due to the language barrier it takes a while until I'll really understand every step - sometimes I can't handle it.
What I can't make out: Is the spark plug wiring is one single device (also the eylets!) made of solder wire? And if so, how did you archieve such a clear dividing line between the textured part and the smoth one?
Impressed again!
Peter
Chuck, you turned lead into cloth;even better than into gold here. Those sparkplug wires look just like ones I've seen on a very old truck.
Awesome!
Thanks very much! Peter, yes I make the wire from one piece. I just stop the file texturing at a certain point, and then I modify the remaining smooth part for the eyelet. It can take several tries to get a nice set of four, but I have a really long spool of solder.
I am finally making some progress on the manifold, almost exactly one year since I modeled it up in 3D cad for printing. After sanding the print lines, I textured the exhaust portion with a sharp dental pick, and then added separate nuts and bolts. Everything was primed with Mr. Surfacer Mahogany, and then painted with Prismacolor "paint". The final coloring was done with Bragdon pigments. The exhaust pipe is 1/8" brass tubing that I bent and then I thinned the open end. Primed with Krylon metal primer and then the Mr. Surfacer and pigments. A final application of spots was done with a sharp, wet tipped Prismacolor pencil. There was a lot of back and forth applications, nothing was a linear step x step. Next up is to finish the throttle and other control rods that connect to the carburetor.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E8WNgJxU6NJ5.jpg)
Just amazing!!
Nothing else to say...
Jerry
Ditto. -- Russ
I can literally smell the oil and grease! Wonderful!!!
Good stuff, Chuck, I backed away from the monitor to avoid getting grease and oil on my sleeves.
Incredible, not indistinguishable from the prototype.
That has to be THE best work I have seen on an engine.
The exhaust pipe is perfect, everything is perfect.
Brilliant!
You know, young man, with some hard work and dedication you could get pretty good at this. DF
Stunning!!
I love your work, Chuck!
This approach you have to detail, is always impressive, difficult to guess that it's a scale model!
Franck
As above comments + just like the real thing can smell the oil and grot from over here
Barney
Do we have an update on this yet??
Jerry
Quote from: TRAINS1941 on November 26, 2019, 05:40:48 AM
Do we have an update on this yet??
Jerry
Some people are so impatient . You know how fast Chuck works , so don't expect anything until after Christmas .
I , on the other hand , churn out models by the dozen . If you like I can show you a picture of an oil drum I've been working on for a few days !
Nick
That poor Shropshire guy is hopeless, utterly hopeless .... -- ssuR
Anything New??
Question is will Chuck be finished before Nick's house... ???
Jerry
Quote from: finescalerr on November 26, 2019, 11:14:47 AM
That poor Shropshire guy is hopeless, utterly hopeless .... -- ssuR
Ooh Russ, you say the nicest things .
Quote from: TRAINS1941 on November 27, 2019, 08:59:13 AM
Question is will Chuck be finished before Nick's house... ???
Jerry
Probably .
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2H2NBS2xU6NJ5.jpg)
Not much to update. I fitted the Danbury wheels in order to begin designing replacements in Solidworks. And then trying to stay interested in cutting and assembling 200 pieces of radiator fins and spacers (which is about 23.7 percent more interesting than watching paint dry, but only because a sharp knife is involved.)
Nick, feel free to add on a couple of rooms, you have plenty of time. (and where is that oil drum picture?)
The new bright red wheel is the most realistic and fascinating detail so far. Love it to death. -- ssuR
Chuck
Only 200 pieces? Wait till you see how many pieces are in Nick's barrel...
Love those front wheels gives it a lot of class. ;)
Jerry
Last bit of modeling for the year. I built and started weathering the radiator core, using the same exact method as the previous tractor I did. Eighty five .003 Mylar laser cut fins, .010 styrene spacers and .02 styrene rod for the tubes. Easy, but tedious.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HUGTDCxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HUGhLTxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HUqYtFxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HUGTgCxU6NJ5.jpg)
Nothing wrong with that subassembly. -- Russ
Cool! (right to the core) :) looks like a greta detail to wind up the year with. Merry Christmas, Chuck!
Chuck that is looking really nice. Glad you have the patience.
You have lived up to your title Mr. Wizard once again this year!!
You can take the rest of the year off!!! ;)
Jerry
Awesome!
Thanks Guys!
I test fitted the core into the 3D printed shell. Thankfully it fit. The Fordson shell castings often broke on the front edge. I am using that feature to show the edges of the fins, since they are otherwise hidden by the shell.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HuZdqLxU6NJ5.jpg)
I'm glad you had time over the holidays to do a little more modeling. -- Russ
Very impressive! I love the details that can be reproduced on this large scale.
Bernhard
Your work is just perfect.
No matter how hard I try, I can never find areas that can be improved.
It is the gold standard of modelling. Your models should be kept in a vault in Paris for reference.
Even when you break it (on purpose) it's perfect.
Excellent - better than the real thing !
Barney
Two I knocked up earlier
Barney
rear of rad
I think the model looks better !
Barney
That looks amazing!
That's not possible, there isn't, Chuck proved us again.
Thanks very much! Nice pictures Barney!
I received the brass front axle parts from Shapeways and cleaned and assembled them. The axle had some minor print lines that were easily sanded. The round parts had no lines at all. The v-shaped radius rod was assembled with 00-90 screws.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HHVFLLxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HHVFWWxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HHVFqqxU6NJ5.jpg)
The parts turned out very well. Do they seem as durable as cast parts? -- Russ
Unbelievable!
I'm actually building a 1/35th scale resin kit for a Fordson critter. No comparison. I could cry.
Bernhard
Quote from: finescalerr on January 26, 2020, 12:04:00 AM
The parts turned out very well. Do they seem as durable as cast parts? -- Russ
Shapeways brass parts are in fact castings. They use a wax printer for an one-off master and cast the final part in brass.
So it is basically a good old lost wax brass casting.
Nice Bernhard!
Exactly as Hauk said. The axle was 17 dollars, and for a custom one-off lost wax cast part, that is almost miraculous to me.
Thank you both for the explanation. I guess we live in the golden age of model building. Too bad our craft/art-form seems to be losing participants. -- Russ
Nice looking axle Chuck.
Jerry
Quote from: Chuck Doan on January 26, 2020, 09:12:05 AM
The axle was 17 dollars, and for a custom one-off lost wax cast part, that is almost miraculous to me.
Amazing!
Thanks Guys!
I painted the radiator shell and set it in place and took some sunny shots. The Fordson did not have a pressurized radiator; boil overs and prominent rust streaks were common, and I was happy to oblige. I used oil paint and gouache for the rust.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HbSsWWxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HbSs55xU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HbV4FrxU6NJ5.jpg)
Looks good, Chuck. Are those a couple bits of grasshoppers in the radiator fins?
Quote from: Bill Gill on February 29, 2020, 05:45:10 PM
Looks good, Chuck. Are those a couple bits of grasshoppers in the radiator fins?
Good eye Bill. Not sure what they are but there dead for sure.
Jerry
I guess it looks alright.... -- Russ
Wow!
Plu a bigger WOW !!!!
Barney
This is absolutely amazing.
More realistic as an original, my respect.
Chuck,
mostly I don't know to say a word to what you show here. It's just amazing. Again I'm trying hard to find any flaw, but I fail. Maybe I'm completely wrong: the rust stains are from overboiling water? So some 'fresh' ones with a rather matte appearance might add to it. At the moment to me it looks a bit to oily.
Cheers,
Volker
I hope everyone is successfully dealing with everything.
Thanks all! Yes, Bill, but don't tell the PETI folks, I don't want to get in trouble. I'm still working on the rust Volker, it's a bit tricky.
I have managed to add some more items; fuel caps and fuel line, clutch pedal and the front choke and hand crank. Almost time to start the front axle and wheels. I may be slow, but at least I'm not fast.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Hf1btqxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Hfa31jxU6NJ5.jpg)
How sweet it is!!
Jerry
I was looking at your last Fordson build and this one looks even better. I didn't think that was possible. Satisfactory. -- Russ
Absolutely flawless!
I may be slow, but at least I'm not fast. Chuck
It's like watching a fine wine age...except for all the grease, grime, rust and grasshopper bits.
Can something always be made a little better? Yeah, you sure can!
Bernhard
Thanks!
Getting dangerously close to finishing. Front axle, steering drag link and gearshift extension added; just need the front wheels. Oh, and the sled.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2H66fR5xU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2H66fsNxU6NJ5.jpg)
Marvellous. A pleasure to watch.
Volker
An iconic piece of work. Satisfactory. -- Russ
A Beautiful piece of work. Looking forward to the sled.
Jerry
Awesome!
This really can hardly be surpassed in reality!
Bernhard
Speechless again
Barney
Chuck going back an looking at the pictures. I see the engine block has a patch on it!
I am correct right?
Jerry
Thanks guys!
Hi Jerry, yes I added a patch to the left side. I finally found a simple one.
While test fitting the front wheels, I fired it up for the first time...seems to run a little rich, but otherwise OK. :)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HtJGDnxU6NJ5.jpg)
Unbelievable!!!
Jerry
incredible!
Cough, cough, gasp, very lifelike.
Chuck,
how do you manage to keep Nirvana's surface that clean?
Cheers,
Volker
The Environmental Protection Agency wants a word with you. -- Russ
I just love those old Fordson tractors!
Bernhard
OUTSTANDING!!!!!
incredibly realistic
Thanks!
Last night I glued the front wheels on and finished the tractor. This is almost exactly two years to the day I finished the hoist, and just like then it was too hot for more than a couple of outdoor shots. I hope to get some more pictures when it cools off.
The sled is up next. I haven't worked with wood for a long time, so it may take a while to get re-acquainted. Hate to slow the project down, but it can't be helped.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HPCH4zxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HPCHfrxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HPCHwNxU6NJ5.jpg)
That is a joy to behold!
Not bad. Build more. -- Russ
The detail on that Thumb and the so realistic nails and the hairs on the back of the Hand -well just unbelievable - the tractor model in the rear of photo thats quite good to - Well what can we all say but just Fantastic don't panic about the amount of time it takes The Guy who done St Paul's Cathedral ceiling took longer !
Barney
Great Chuck
All I can say is that the last several years have been a great exercise it photo shop work.
A work of art!!
Jerry
PS Looking forward to the sled!!
Thanks very much! Barney, that hand came out a bit too wrinkly for my taste.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Hk3rZNxU6NJ5.jpg)
Quote from: Chuck Doan on July 14, 2020, 09:42:36 PM
Thanks very much! Barney, that hand came out a bit too wrinkly for my taste.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Hk3rZNxU6NJ5.jpg)
But Chuck clearly shows the age group in which there are very good model builders. After all, the older ones have more experience, peace and time for such excellent model making. No matter from what perspective photographed it is a very beautiful model.
Chuck, after all the effort to masterfully weather your models are you telling us the weathering of your own hands falls short? Go stand in the corner! -- ssuR
Looks terrific, Chuck. I'll bet building the sled will be just like falling off , uhm, riding a bike :)
Chuck-- Once again, it is great to see this project all come together so perfectly! Having it all look like it happened at once is particularly difficult over such a stretch of time. Inspiring! (Though just short of enough to shake me from my current slump...) I am twisting my hat in my hands, but would like to offer a suggestion-- those front wheels would not have rolled in some time, and from what I have seen of idle steel wheels, they would have a layer of rust on the once-polished rims that would get thicker and browner as they sat, especially on the top. Also, the rain washes the mud and crud that had collected inside the rim into a puddle at the bottom. I am certain that as soon as I hit "post" you will show the latest photos that reveal that you have already done all this, but see what you think... Again, FANTASTIC WORK! DF
Russ, I like to weather, but I don't want to BE weathered. Thanks Bill, time will tell.
Hi Dave, glad to hear from you.
No hat twisting required, I appreciate the advice! I found many examples of very rusty wheels, and several examples of polished rims (thanks to antique farm plowing meets). But nothing that showed the shiny rims after a longish hiatus. I looked at long parked railroad wheels, but I never saw that style of rust on a tractor rim. So I used an example of a dark brown and slightly sheened set of wheels I saw on an old running Fordson. There is a bit more accumulated mud in the bottoms, copied from tractor show examples. It's a little scary to mess with these since they are glued on, but I might re-visit it when I see it on the sled with all the debris and all. And if all else fails, I will use the excuse that it is supposed to represent a California machine, and everything here is a bit off (!)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HkLkerxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HkLyzNxU6NJ5.jpg)
I hope you find your muse again, so we can see more of your fine work!
Chuck-- I'm glad I brought it up so we could see a couple more nice close-ups of the front wheels... I was looking at photos of older steel-wheeled Farmalls on Google and remembering the long-unused tractors parked around the ranches here in Arizona where rust takes years to build up-- used steel looks like it has been painted dark brown without much loose orange oxide anywhere. The California line is a good one, and if ANYONE is OCD enough to even bring it up, you can use that as a root for a much more involved story! The metal effect on the rims right now is perfect, but you are right, once all is in place, you can bet that there will be some adjustment. Keep it up-- I suspect that there are many of us living through you right now... DF
Of all the things on this project, these rims gave me the most head scratching on how to finish them.
To paraphrase the artist James McNeill Whistler, no matter how much work has gone into a painting, it should look like it was effortless. I'd say that about sums up what you've done here! DF
Chuck, I admire your perfect models and the absolutely perfect paint jobs.
Bernhard
The Wheel rims look absolutely right - looked at a lot of my photos from the tractor shows and they look just like that - if they have been running through grass or a forrest floor - lovely workmanship - after the wooden bits whats next !!
Barney
Thanks Guys! Here are some final pictures to close out this part of the project.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Hih5sjxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Hih5DdxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Hih57NxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HihyBnxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HihytFxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HihjBjxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HihjtqxU6NJ5.jpg)
It looks terrific ... but it needs a bath and a paint job. -- Russ
A Masterpiece!!!
Jerry
Only one thing I don't understand is that such a great machine has been so little maintained. ::) :o
A true Master piece - better than the real thing !!
Barney
Stunning, absolutely stunning, a "jewel". I could look at it for hours and still find more and more incredible detail. I think back to Chuck's early days and thought then how amazing and detailed, also the days of Greenberg and Nash with their beautiful dioramas - but now it gets even better I've probably said it before but will say it again, thanks goodness for the forum. I've got a lot of catching up to do to get anywhere near this quality but it always provides inspiration.
Les
This is really model making at its very best! The dirt encrusted oil and grease marks are absolutely realistic.
Bernhard
Masterful work, especially the weathering effects. The coloration and texture of the wheels (and everything else) is spot on. I could put these photos alongside pics of many old machines I've seen and it would be nigh impossible to tell which is real and which is the model.
You have said it one Les + this Forum beats them all - if you want quality and not quantity This is the place
Barney
You might (or might not) be surprised to learn that most guys who want to join the forum change their mind when I ask for a couple of photos of their work and tell them we often offer constructive criticism. -- Russ
Thanks very much for the nice words! It has been a lot of fun, with many do-overs but none that drained my interest. Helmut, it least it has been well oiled and greased!
I certainly agree with the thoughts on this forum. It's been true for a long time.
Quote from: finescalerr on August 03, 2020, 02:48:35 PM
You might (or might not) be surprised to learn that most guys who want to join the forum change their mind when I ask for a couple of photos of their work and tell them we often offer constructive criticism. -- Russ
This is true many just want to be admired and suggestions for improvement are seen as nasty criticism. I have already learned a lot here and have been able to improve. But it is also true what Russ has written the realization we have just been able to read in the BBF (http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?t=13740).
I'm starting to make some progress on the first the sled runner. Started with a basswood square and am slowly carving out a log with a flattened top to mount the machinery. The knots are sanded from basswood sticks and tapped into holes. Then I Dremel the surface with a burr to make then seem raised. Damage added with a knife and a coarse wire wheel. I'm cleaning the fuzz with high pressure baking soda blasting using my Badger mini-sandblaster. The big holes are for the truss rod nuts and washers. About 1 and 3/16" square and 18" long. Still a long ways to go.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HTer2GxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HTeroWxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HTervqxU6NJ5.jpg)
Great texture! Looks good already!
Yes, it does look terrific. And thanks for the short "how-to" info. -- Russ
Never has a piece of driftwood received so much praise!
(sorry, I am just seriously jealous ;D)
amazing! - speechless!
Barney
Chuck, "Knotty but Nice" :) Even without coloring it's convincing.
Quote from: Bill Gill on September 02, 2020, 02:18:07 PM
Chuck, "Knotty but Nice" :) Even without coloring it's convincing.
I'm completely with Bill. Those protruding knots are phantatstic.
Volker
For me, it's the first time I've seen someone recreated the branches, just exemplary.
This is going to be about as realistic as it gets.
Next to cutting down a tree in the forest!!
Wonderful!!
Jerry
Hi Chuck.
I never thought you were a Wittler I think that is the word.
Fantastic as ever . I would like to see them being made out of styrene and see how realistic they would turn out !
Excellent observation of the prototype and accurate implementation into the model!
Bernhard
Thanks! Not sure I could get the effects I want from styrene, Nick.
I've been making some more progress on the sled. Got the second runner carved and have started the headblock where the fairlead rollers will mount. I'm using a square tipped X-acto blade to make the hand hewn effects. I watched some online videos to get an idea of how it's done. Reckon I'm about ready to build a real cabin now.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HhQgk2xU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HhQgszxU6NJ5.jpg)
Chuck, the effort you put into modelmaking, is clearly contributing to the excellent result.
That is really some nice chopping.
Jerry
Excellent work as usual. I like the hand-hewn look.
Thanks! I have your wood wall article out for coloring reference, Ray.
First fitting...
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HhBGWzxU6NJ5.jpg)
Well, of course it fits. And it is going to be quite a model. -- Russ
Perfect fit! Would you do anything but have the sled as perfect as the tractor!!
Jerry
Looking good an excellent bit of chipping !
Barney
I think it would be fun to watch you build a 1:1 cabin with an Exacto Knife.
Started playing with the wood coloring on one of the runner ends. Silverwood stain and Prismacolor Premier pencils so far. A long ways to go.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HCPQr3xU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HCPQjvxU6NJ5.jpg)
Morning Chuck.
As always -great.
cheers
Holy carp, that looks amazing already!
Great guns, Boy Wonder, that's already really swell! -- Russ
Whaever you turn your hand to is absolutely great!
Les
Realism and inspiration - and I can smell the wood Chipping's
Barney
Really good! Did you use anything to blend the Premier pencils into the wood?
Chuck your every post just gets more and more realistic.
Is there no end to your talent??
Jerry
This is really amazing. Great job!
Bernhard
This is sublime.
That's exactly the right word, Volker. -- Russ
All I need now is a description of how you can do something like this yourself, maybe even about it yourself.
Chuck,
I always admire your great implementation in the model - it is simply a super model building!
Frithjof
Thanks again for the nice words! Sorry for the delay, Bill I am using turpentine and also mineral spirits to work the pencils. I use an artist's stump, toothpicks and my finger to blend.
I have made a bit of progress: the first runner is almost finished.
This project has gone "off script" a number of times. My second plan for the sled was to use peeled logs as was usually done. But while doing research, I came across a few donkey sleds that still had bark, in whole or part. I had some old twigs that I bought 25 plus years ago for my O scale railroad, and now they finally found a use. Just a bit of bark peeling and re-assembly on the sled is all it took. I also got the hold down loops and tie rod bolts installed on this side.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HWQzw9xU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HWQzBzxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://images14.fotki.com/v1315/photos/9/777399/11270393/DSCF8275-vi.jpg)
(https://images40.fotki.com/v1075/photos/9/777399/13054556/DSCF8287-vi.jpg)
OMG!
Even without the bark your wood texture and colors are perfect, but the few bits of bark still clinging to the log really sells it!
OMG!!!!!!!!!!!
Jerry
Superlative work!
Not bad. -- Russ
Going off script certainly wasn't 'barking on the wrong tree' :)
It's looking very good.
Stunning job, as always!
Congratulations Chuck, You've set the bar very high!
A superb bit of workmanship with realism and inspiration
Barney
Chuck That is an incredible piece of work. Well done. I have to say that I love the numbered yellow chain guard...it turns the vehicle into real eye catcher.
Narayan
Very cool Chuck
Continuing work on the sled. Playing with more wood effects and debris. Just installed the tractor axle support blocks and the decking that will be underneath it.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HrrQkNxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HrrQP3xU6NJ5.jpg)
It's just fabulous , the grain, the spits , the colour and the staining , the mix of debris and just the overall control of every little bit and nuance
I agree. Nothing there to nitpick. -- Russ
Like Gordon said, the colors, texture and everything else are spot on!
Especially the second pictures with the oil and gasoline blotches looks phantastic.
I just have to laugh in disbelief.
There is absolutely no way to top this.
This is really almost indistinguishable from the original. Especially the oil stains are absolutely realistic.
Bernhard
Chuck,
which kind of wood did you use for the planks? Did you do the saw marks by disk sander?
Cheers,
volker
I too want to know how you did the saw blade marks.
Or is it possible that once finished you are going to smile and say "April Fool!" because you've been working with a full sized restoration all along?
Awesome Chuck!
More, The traces of sawing on the boards are also present... :o
Franck
Absolute perfection! I doubt anyone could make a full-sized replica that looked as good as this.
Thanks very much!
This is the saw mark maker, a simple basswood fence clamped to my 4" disc sander. I use a feeler gauge to set the distance from the disc. The adhesive sanding disc is stuck on approximately 1/16th inch eccentric to give me a flexible "cutting" edge. I just slide a piece along the fence past the edge of the disc to make the marks. I can vary the cut marks by the speed I move the piece. This setup can do about a 5/8" wide piece. It "cuts" either forward or backwards, and a piece can be redone if needed just by running it through again.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Hjo2MjxU6NJ5.jpg)
The wood is all basswood. I get my dimensional cut pieces mostly from Midwest Products. The inch fractional sizes match nicely to my 1/16th scale needs. I make sure to avoid any "speckle grain" pieces that won't take the finish properly.
The boards were made in this sequence:
• Cut to length
• Add knot holes; burr out a hole and spin sand some basswood sticks to a close fit with a slight taper, then glue and tap them in. Then cut off flush.
• Run the boards through the saw mark sander.
• Add very light wire brushing. This is not very old wood, just well used.
• Add splits and cracks based on real wood photos.
• Color with Silverwood stain.
• Final color with oil paint mixed with oderless turpentine washes. Grey followed by browns mostly.
• Seal with Dullcote when dry.
• Add freehand Prismacolor Premier pencil graining. Several of the deck boards had some nice grain detail before someone covered them with oil.
• Seal again with Dullcote.
• Soda brush low pressure to dull. (Baking soda in an air eraser at 15-20 P.S.I.)
The oil stains (after boards were installed):
Mix Prismacolor pencil "paint", black and dark umber mostly.
Lightly apply to the the boards with a water dampened cosmetic sponge. The Dullcote sealed wood can take light dampening without issue.
Once a pattern is done, follow up with a mix of black and dark brown oil paint, dufted on lightly with the cosmetic sponge, a very thin coat. Then sprinkle finely screened bark and gently sponge press it into the oil paint and let dry.
I usually favor the brown more in my oil mixes because it's easier to bring up the black than to take it back if it is too heavy.
The final step was adding nails using Styrene rod pressed flush into drilled holes, and few popped nails made with fishline and heat formed heads.
"UNBELIEVABLE"
Jerry
Fantastic!
Since I work in a smaller scale I'm going to have to scale the diameter of the cutter down so that the tooth marks are close to scale for me. There have been several early 20th century models I've been stuck on because I couldn't figure out how to make the surfaces properly.
Thanks for the inspiration.
Excellent tutorial. That's what I appreciate about this forum, that you can always learn something. Thank you!
Bernhard
Yes I learn stuff all the time and Chucks stuff leaves me speechless !
Barney
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HjEm3nxU6NJ5.jpg)
A little better view of the loose nails. Put a piece of .015 diameter fishline in a pin vise. Cut it so 1/32 was protruding. Held it to a candle flame until it balled up and then pressed it against a flat surface. Same thing I did on a barn diorama some years ago.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2HjEmUFxU6NJ5.jpg)
Come on Chuck those are real nails. Who you kidding?? ;)
Jerry
Quote from: TRAINS1941 on January 22, 2021, 05:46:58 AM
Come on Chuck those are real nails. Who you kidding?? ;)
Jerry
Quite frankly , Jerry , the thing is so damn big they might just as well be .
Nick
Chuck, once again you have raised the level great so realistic,
cheers Kim
Chuck-- Still the best entertainment on TV. Is that the finish line just coming over the horizon? The sled is looking fantastic, and I really appreciate your distinction between wood that has worked hard and wood that is just old. The saw mark jig is first class-- now I want to make something in heavy timbers. How could rough-cut tree trunks be so inspiring? DF
Thanks! Dave, I try not to use that F-word. But I am enjoying the first wood modeling I have done in several years.
I installed the decking on the hoist side of the sled. This end would collect debris pulled in from the logs by the hoist ropes. It was also used to store cable rigging and tools; those still need to be 3d modeled and printed.
The debris is various grades of screen sifted bark and dirt, applied with water thinned PVA (Elmer's white glue) and a cosmetic sponge. Using PVA glue makes it easy to edit the debris if needed with a damp sponge or toothpick. Everything you see is glued down and has been brushed with a soft brush and blown off with a low pressure air gun. Now it's ready for some serious dust and lint catching.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Hj8NrnxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Hj8NjqxU6NJ5.jpg)
Not bad. -- Russ
Looks like the top of my work space without all the paint spilss :)
On the other hand, it is indistinquishable from a real sled!
Just phenomenal - it just looks awesome!
As Bill already wrote, indistinguishable from reality!
Just dam right scary that anyone could make the real thing just better than the real thing.
A MASTER at work!!
Jerry
You can almost smell the wood and feel the texture, absolutely stunning. You are a master in whatever medium you use!
Les
Realism perfected!
Thanks for the nice words!
I worked on the operators' running board this weekend. I made it the same way as the sequence above, using the Prismacolor pencils for the grain. I found an image of a nicely grained timber, scaled it and printed it out for reference. The grain lines are hand drawn and then lightly burnished with my finger and/or an artist's stump. Then sealed with Dullcoat and soda brushed to dull.
The supports were copied from a Canadian donkey and bent using .060 aluminum rod.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2H8dS8HxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2H8dSM2xU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2H8dVovxU6NJ5.jpg)
Just got out the knitting needles! Think I'll make a winter sweater for the dog!
Jerry
I was happy banging rocks together, then I heard the sound of the symphony orchestra...
Quote from: TRAINS1941 on February 07, 2021, 09:27:22 PM
Just got out the knitting needles! Think I'll make a winter sweater for the dog!
Jerry
What sort of wool are you going to use and will the sweater cover his/her whole body or just it's chest ? I've got some lovely patterns I could let you have !
Well, there's not much else to do when you're stuck in the corner , now that I've pick all the plaster off the walls , so a bit of knitting helps to while away the time .
Nick
Nick, why don't you come out of the corner and maybe we can coach each other as we try to emulate the kind of stuff Chuck is doing. I'd probably be pretty good at burnishing colored pencil lines with my finger if you can draw the grain. -- Russ
This work is both inspiring and depressing ....... you just hope that one day you might get close to this level .
It's the accumulation of all the little details that add up ..... like the oil stain ring , but you could go on and one picking out these details
Chuck, What kind of stump did you use? I have a spruce and a maple stump in my yard :)
Russ, I can help sharpen the pencil.
Nick, I'm not ready for knitting something as complicated as sweaters, maybe I'll try simpler at first, like an ashtray.
I can't come close to this! Maybe Nick would like to help me empty the whisky bottles I think I am capable of collecting.
Speechless!!! ::)
Or may be: Thank you very much for the short tutorial... Although, to be honest, it won't help much, as we can sharpen and hold the pencils in all possible ways, we will never ever get results like this :-\
Quote from: Gordon Ferguson on February 08, 2021, 02:59:00 AM
This work is both inspiring and depressing ....... you just hope that one day you might get close to this level .
It's the accumulation of all the little details that add up ..... like the oil stain ring , but you could go on and one picking out these details
Gordon , you do yourself a dis-service . Your standard of modelling is very high and you can hold your own against Chuck . Whilst he is the master at what he does and no one ( and I truly mean , no-one )can match what he does with wood he does have his limitations (not many I grant you ), but when was the last time you saw a figure on one of his dioramas? He doesn't do figures , which is fine , but I guess he knows that they wouldn't come up to the standard of the rest of his work .
Like most of the rest of us modellers , Chuck works within his comfort zone and does what what Chuck does best , but sometimes I can't help thinking that it would be interesting to see what he could come up if he modelled something he had never tried before .
So dig that Land Rover out of the box you dumped it in and get it finished so that I have no excuse not to finish the diorama it is going on !
Nick
Chuck ,
Like everyone else I am in awe of your work and would love to say more , but I have just dropped a stitch on the swim suit I am knitting and have to go back and put it right !
Loved the picture so much I went out and brought one of the Prismacolor pencils. If I can't model to that standard I can at least make sure I have the right pencils in my photos!
Lawrence
I agree with Nick, Gordon does excellent work, both fabrication and painting. I also agree that if I did a figure it would be awful. Fortunately I have no interest in painting figures (although there were two on my Red Oak diorama) (and they weren't very good).
Actually there have been some new things on this project, like using an airbrush for virtually everything, making some complex 3D models and using oil and Prisma paints for the first time. But yes, mostly I like a project that is enjoyable to work on with minimal head banging. I get enough of that from Real Life. Maybe after I retire I will try more challenging models. Or I may just stay in my comfortable jammies and have fun!
And yes, please fix that hole in your suit Nick!
Marvelous work, Chuck! Each piece of wood a perfect model in itself.
Heavily inspired by your desert shack wall Ray!
I'm glad Chuck mentioned that. My final Modelers' Annual has an article about a shack Ray built from styrene. But it looks just like weathered wood because Ray painted and shaped each plank to duplicate its full size counterpart on the wall of an actual shack. The two photos are side by side a page and the similarity is remarkable.
If anybody wants, I can post the photos here.
Russ
Quote from: Chuck Doan on February 09, 2021, 07:20:25 PM
Heavily inspired by your desert shack wall Ray!
Wow! Thanks Chuck.
Hi Chuck.
Man is this your pre-retirement efforts, I cant wait to see the real deal.
cheers.
Please do post those pictures Russ.
Here is the comparison. Ray's wall is 100% painted styrene. Click on the image to enlarge it. -- Russ
There is no bettering this.
I'm surprised you can remember back that far Unc!!!
I'll wait until till December to bring up one of your famous quotes!!
Jerry
Quote from: finescalerr on February 10, 2021, 12:02:49 PM
Here is the comparison. Ray's wall is 100% painted styrene. Click on the image to enlarge it. -- Russ
That might be the finest example of painted and weathered styrene in the entire history of scale modelling. I mean that in a literal sense.
I agree. -- Russ
Quote from: Hauk on February 11, 2021, 12:27:47 AM
Quote from: finescalerr on February 10, 2021, 12:02:49 PM
Here is the comparison. Ray's wall is 100% painted styrene. Click on the image to enlarge it. -- Russ
That might be the finest example of painted and weathered styrene in the entire history of scale modelling. I mean that in a literal sense.
Yep.
I bought that issue because of that shack!
Thanks, everyone! Now I remember why I never finished the rest of the building... it's the one thing I've done that I felt was too good to put outside.
Ray.
great what a paint job I have never seen it before.
cheers
That's outstanding Ray :o :o I've never seen styrene weathered so convincingly.
I added a board for the operator to use when cranking the tractor. More Prisma pencil graining.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aoFHTLxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aoFHSgxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aoFHVWxU6NJ5.jpg)
Chuck,
how did you make this tiny pine cone?
Volker
Quote from: Hydrostat on March 02, 2021, 10:56:52 PM
Chuck,
how did you make this tiny pine cone?
Volker
I havent noticed the cone until now.
What a great detail!
Nice! The pine cone is a added touch. I hope you show the tree it came from? ;)
Jerry
Holy crap... :o :o Now the daVinci of modellers is making scale pine cones!
Just astonishing work as always Chuck. You never fail to inspire.
The pine cone is the result of a 25 year project to grow a scale pine tree specifically for this project. Oh, wait it's March 1st, not April.
They are from a neighbors' tree. Probably stunted from years of smog, I don't know. But free for the taking.
Phew - you must be lucky.
IT just gets better - I need a lay down
Barney
Quote from: Chuck Doan on March 03, 2021, 09:20:39 AM
The pine cone is the result of a 25 year project to grow a scale pine tree specifically for this project. Oh, wait it's March 1st, not April.
They are from a neighbors' tree. Probably stunted from years of smog, I don't know. But free for the taking.
Looks like there is a marketing opportunity for you , Chuck . Scale bonsai pine cones . $10.00 a bag .
It's really details like this that bring a model to life. Outstanding!
Bernhard
Dang, Chuck. I'd hoped you'd carved the pinecone, following the correct fibonacci sequence for the clockwise and counter clockwise spiraling sequences for that particular specie's cone scales...
I made an operators seat for the tugger hoist. It's a close copy of one on the donkey at the McLean mill in British Columbia.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2au3Fp5xU6NJ5.jpg)
The seat is from the Danbury mint die-cast Fordson, but it was sanded down to be thinner on the bottom side. It is made of a brittle translucent plastic. Painted black and buffed with pencil lead.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2au3qRCxU6NJ5.jpg)
The seat post was heat formed from styrene strip. I made a former from thin brass. I clamped the strip with alligator clips and dunked it in near boiling water, and made close-to shape bends around the former. Then I clamped it tight and dunked it again.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2au3FjCxU6NJ5.jpg)
The strip matches the former perfectly with no springback.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2au3FMgxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2au3qkWxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2au3qsLxU6NJ5.jpg)
Why didn't you just use the strip of brass for the seat post? The model looks absolutely stunning at this point, by the way. -- Russ
I hate painting brass.
A great answer. It's like asking Babe Ruth why he hit so many home runs and his answering, "I hate striking out." -- Russ
So awesome! I could sit and stare at this model for hours!
Quote from: Chuck Doan on April 18, 2021, 08:51:46 PM
I hate painting brass.
Tinning and blackening with a fluid from a tiffany shop leads to a somewhat rusty appearance and a reasonable subsurface for coloring. And there's no yellow brass if some color should chip off. Or be chipped off :-X.
A piece of art already in itself! :o
Because Russ that wouldn't be Chuck!
And the model is a beautiful thing!
Jerry
Chuck, Take your seat at the head of the table!
The operator's seat is terrific.
Thanks All!
I finally got some model time, and I finished the fairlead assembly. These are the rollers that guide the ropes from the hoist drums to the load. I copied them from a donkey at the Mclean Mill museum in British Columbia. I also referenced a lot of old donkey pictures for ideas.
The rollers were painted on my drill press "lathe" and I used a soft lead pencil for the burnished places. Prismacolor pencils were used for the basic rust coloring. Oil paints and pigments were used for the grease. Various grades of sifted bark were glued down using diluted white glue.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aEqzhWxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aEqzCGxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aEqzLnxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aEqzgqxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aEFoJ5xU6NJ5.jpg)
The dark parts were 3D printed, the lighter parts were made from styrene, and the gold parts came from purchased .6mm, 00-90 and 0-80 brass nut and bolt hardware.
Details, details and more details. Such beautiful work!
Jerry
Goodness gracious! -- Russ
Every time you post an update, my jaw hits the floor!
Great stuff! I like it very much!!!
Rolling right along , Chuck, with more amazing details.
He did it again. Great touch with the striae.
Could a fellow 1/16ther purchase a fairlead?
I like the worn grooves never seen that in a model.
Martin
In truth it doesn't get any better and more inspiring than this...
Thanks Very much! Marty, I can send the STL files if you want. Need to supply the hardware and styrene tube rollers is all.
In the home stretch now.
I finally made the vertical exhaust I had originally designed. Made from 1/8" (3.2mm) styrene tube. I glued a piece of solid styrene rod in the lower end and heat bent the tube around a Sharpie pen after dipping in boiling water. I sanded some wrinkles in the bend to simulate homeade construction, and added a dent. Then I glued on a styrene support bracket, and primed it with Krylon Grey primer sprayed at a distance to create a textured surface. Then a base coat of Prismaclor pencil "paint", browns and rust colors. Then sponged with rust, brown, tan and black pigment powders and the spritzed with Dullcoat, also sprayed at a distance to create a mottled effect. Then some dark brown dits added with the wet tip of a Prismacolor Premier pencil. Not a hearty finish, but it'll do.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aZ33zdxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aZ3voyxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aZ3v25xU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aZ3v3gxU6NJ5.jpg)
Bought an 0-80 die and threaded some .06 diameter brass wire for the axle hold downs. Secured to the sled with 0-80 nuts.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aZ3vJFxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aZ3vBGxU6NJ5.jpg)
Stunning! Superb modeling, exceeded only by your sublime texturing/weathering.
A truly unique model in all parts and especially in the color design.
Has to be one of the most amazing models ever created. Words just don't describe your talent!!
Jerry
Everything is exceptional on this model.
It'll do. -- Russ
Almost there.
Did you "thin" the end of the tube to make the wall thickness scale?
I would have thought you'd use brass tube for the pipe at least.
Going to have to try the pencils.
Marty
Awesome Chuck!... ;)
Everything is perfect in every detail.
Franck
I agree in every way to what others have said + superb modelling
Barney
Whats next ?
Always a pleasure Chuck-great.
Extraordinary work for a great result !