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General store in O scale (learning exercise)

Started by lab-dad, October 19, 2008, 04:15:25 PM

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finescalerr

Seal plaster before painting? HORRORS! I tried Randy Pepprock's method years ago when he sent me a kit sample to review. I managed to come up with something somewhat acceptable after hours of work. I think the results would have been much better had I NOT first primed the plaster.

By contrast, when I wanted to color a cast resin stone wall, I came up with the idea of first coating it with white acrylic indoor house paint because I noticed the paint produced a color and texture similar to plaster. I applied two or three coats and let them dry for a couple of days. Then I brushed on an India ink/alcohol wash. When that was dry I brushed the casting with a very dilute wash of Polly S acrylic paint. The result was outstanding. The paint seemed to soak up the stain as plaster might and the coloring process was quick, accurate, and controllable.

Maybe one of you guys will try it and report back. I'd be curious to see if it works for everyone.

Russ

lab-dad

Okay, it has taken several days but I have progress to report.
I redid the bricks the way I should have done them the first time;

The motor has been added but no further weathering as of yet. Still need to put in some burnt bricks too.

The front wall is assembled;


And the first attempts at painting styrene to look like wood;

I think I am on the right track, have not used any powders or ink, just a base of solvent paint and oils, yes real oils, I looked at the waterbased oils but opted for the real ones as I already had a couple of tubes.

Okay, so what do you all think?
Marty running for cover..

jacq01


  Marty,

  very couragious, but you don't need to run.
  Outstanding effort, I have a long way to go to get styrene to look like your lumber.

   Jacq
put brain in gear before putting mouth in action.
never underestimate the stupidity of idiots
I am what I remember.

TrevorCreek

Marty,

The brick looks much better.  The styrene coloring looks great.  How about a little how to on what you did.

Frank

TRAINS1941

Mj

Brick is much better with a little weathering I think you'll have just what your looking for.
The wood (styrene) is looking extremely well done.  Kind of lean toward the reddish look of the lumber.
Very nice indeed, but one would expect that from you.

Jerry
Why isn't there mouse-flavored cat food?
George Carlin

marc_reusser

Marty,

Very nice job on the lumber. Would also be interested in how you acheived it.

Here is a little trick for working with oils, that may help keep some of the sheen away.

Before using the oil paint, place a dab of the paint you plan to use on some cardboard/chipboard (like the kind used for the back of writing pads), and let it sit there for a bit, so as to allow some of the Linseed oil to leech/get sucked out of it. Then use that dollop for your project/work.


Marc
I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....

M-Works

John McGuyer

I too would like to know how you did the wood. I'm trying to do the floor of a plastic gondola and right now it looks like excrement. I need a class in painting plastic to look like wood 101.

John

finescalerr

Way to go, Marty, with both the brick and the styrene wood. Both need a little final finish but you are very close already. The step-by-step "clinic" on the styrene wood would make a great feature for publication. -- Russ

Krusty

What everyone else said. That's some of the nicest styrene wood I've seen (way, way better than my crappy efforts). It'd be great if you could give a few more details.
Kevin Crosado

"Caroline Wheeler's birthday present was made from the skins of dead Jim Morrisons
That's why it smelt so bad"

danpickard

Marty,
The styrene treatment has come up better looking than timber, how ironic.  I really like the aged look of the far left piece, but each colour variation you have certainly has its own place depending on level of exposure to the elements.  The darken start of rot in the knots is a very nice look.  I guess if you do a "how to" for the rest of the mob, I'd be interested in hearing about your efforts as well.

Dan

lab-dad

Geese guys, I didnt thin it looked "up to spec" guess you never know.

The short boards were painted with "earth" floquil, the long ones were done with a basic gray.
All the boards were pre-grained with a wire pencil.

I used black, white, raw sienna, burnt and raw umber, a 18/0 brush and also a 1/4" wide brush, both were red sable.
Using the colors and making a mixture of various grays I streaked the boards.
I did use the color blobs like Marc indicated, not because I knew though...
Then using the wide brush dry I blended the colors.
The knots were done with a "dot" of black or burnt umber and then (very lightly with the wide brush)
streaking them up and down to resemble a real knot.
The dark stains were done by painting on black at the ends and dry streaking the color up.

I still think they need more work, and some powders but due to the overall praise I am encouraged to continue.

Any more questions please ask, thats why I'm here doing this.

Thanks!
-Marty

Chuck Doan

I think it looks very promising! Looks like a good way to do grain patterns that would be virtually impossible on real wood.
"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

John McGuyer

Did your advice on painting plastic to look like wood. I painted my gondola Floquil Earth and have streaked it primarily with white and burnt umber. Looks much better than my previous attempts. Not as good as yours, but much better than it did.

John

Hauk

Quote from: lab-dad on November 06, 2008, 07:27:17 AM


I used black, white, raw sienna, burnt and raw umber, a 18/0 brush and also a 1/4" wide brush, both were red sable.
Using the colors and making a mixture of various grays I streaked the boards.
I did use the color blobs like Marc indicated, not because I knew though...
Then using the wide brush dry I blended the colors.
The knots were done with a "dot" of black or burnt umber and then (very lightly with the wide brush)
streaking them up and down to resemble a real knot.
The dark stains were done by painting on black at the ends and dry streaking the color up.

I still think they need more work, and some powders but due to the overall praise I am encouraged to continue.

Any more questions please ask, thats why I'm here doing this.

I am very impressed by your results!
By the way, did you use the oil paint full strength?

Best regards,
HÃ¥vard H
Regards, Hauk
--
"Yet for better or for worse we do love things that bear the marks of grime, soot, and weather, and we love the colors and the sheen that call to mind the past that made them"  -Junichiro Tanizaki

Remembrance Of Trains Past

lab-dad

Yea! John, glad it worked for you.
How about a picture or two?

Yes Hauk, no additional oil, and I let the paint sit a bit and worked from the thicker areas, but only picked up a tiny bit of paint.
-Marty