Monorail locomotive 1:16 scale

[Scratchman]

Thanks guys for your enthusiasm.The Radiator, Glue-together two A parts for the top flange and two for the bottom flange.(I'm looking for the right size nut-bolt casting for the nut-bolt on this part). Add the mesh Part C one on each side of part B and sand to the correct size. Glue the two E parts together and add to the in-side of Part  D. Add one D part to each side of the B-C part and add the top and bottom flanges.  Add parts F,G,Hand I. (note the thickness of the wood core part B would be better if the thickness was a little thicker  5/32" or 3/16". The size of the spacer part E would need to  be adjusted also)   

Radiator part 3

A (4) styrene 020" x 3/8" x 1 1/4" long (looking for the right size of nut-bolt casting)
B (1) wood 125" x 1 1/16" x 1 3/16" ( look at note)
C (2) brass mesh 1 1/16" x 1 3/16"
D (2) 5/16" styrene channel 1 3/16" long
E (2) styrene 020" x 060 x 1 3/16" + 060" styrene angle 1 3/16" long
F (2) 060" styrene half-round 1 3/16" long
G (2) 060" styrene half-round (around) 1" long (cut to fit)
H (1) styrene 080" x 1/4" x 1 1/8" long (add to the bottom of the bottom flange after taper or round over the sides)
I (2) styrene 030" x 1/4" x 1 5/32" long (shape using a 1 1/2" diameter circle)
J (2) 100" styrene half round 1 3/16" long
K (48) nut heads and nut-bolt heads (? for now)



Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[Malachi Constant]

Gordon --

Mostly following along silently, but I'll throw in an audible "oooooh" and "ah" here ... 

Enjoying your fabulous construction and appreciate the effort you're putting into the descriptive posts.

Cheers,
Dallas

[lab-dad]

YEA!
Keep going!
Very informative and enjoyable to watch over your shoulder.

If I can be of assistance on the axle housing (lathe turning or whatever) please let me know.
-Marty

[JohnP]

Those are actual photos from inside Gordon's brain. The clear, organized layout of well thought-out parts and assemblies is the result of the special wiring he was gifted with.

Thanks for sharing your work. It is inspirational to see the progress from the styrene shapes we all can buy to a complete and unique model.

John

[Philip Smith]

Super impressive work!

[Scratchman]

Thanks guys for your comments and support.

Core for the Transmission Part 4

Glue parts B on the ends of part A. On draft paper draw a simple plane for the side view. draw a rectangle 1" x 2 5/8". Locate  the center location for the 1 1/16" diameter circle up in the upper left hand corner of the rectangle up 11/16" from the bottom and 7/16" over from the left side and draw the circle. Set the A.-B. part on the drawing and cut the wood part C,D,E,F into the circle. The bottom of the circle will set on top of part G. Using the above lay-out cut the circle in part I. and add part K. and H. I cut all the wood parts longer than needed and trimmed them all after the assemble was all together.to finish this up add parts J. over the top of part B. ( note that more parts will be added to the top, bottom and the two sides.     

A (1) ABS pipe around 1 1/16" OD 1/2" long.
B (2) styrene disk 1 1/16" OD 020" thick.
C (1) wood 1/2" x 1/2" x 1 1/2" long
D (1) wood 1/4" x 1/2" x 1 1/2" long
E (1) wood 1/8" x 1/2" x 1 1/2" long
F (1) wood 1/8" x 1/2" x 1 1/2" long
G (1) wood 1/16" x 1/2" x 2 3/8" long
H (1) wood 1/16" x 1/2" x 1/4" long
I (2) styrene 020" x 1" x 2 5/16"
J (2) styrene disk 1 1/8" OD x 020" thick (add (7) nut-bolt casting Grandt line # 128)
K (1) styrene 020" x 1/4" x 1/2" long

Transmission End Cap-Hitch Part 5

Add this part to part K on part 4.

A (1) Styrene 080" x 080" x 7/16"
B (2) styrene 030" x 3/8" x 7/16" (add (4) nut-bolt casting Grandt Line  # 128)
C (1) styrene 060 x 3/16" x 7/16" ( cut a small notch at the back)
D (2) styrene 020" x 100" x 3/16 (shape to a small triangle)
E (1) styrene 060 x 1/8" x 5/8" (drill five 1/16" holes)
F (1) 1/4" styrene hole punch 040" thick  (cut in half and add to the assemble)

Monorail Gear Box Part 6

There are two of these parts one on each side. The list is only for one part.

A (3) ring/flanges 5/8" OD x 3/8" ID (Plastruct # RI 12) ( stack the three around part B.) (sand flat on on one side and add part C keeping the assembly  centered.
B (1) styrene tube 3/8" OD X 9/32" long
C (1) styrene tube 7/16" OD x 9/32" long
D (1) styrene 010" x 9/32" x long enough to go around part A. and B. I added a short piece to go over the joint)
E (1) styrene 020" x 1 1/16" x 5/8" (glue to the A.,B.,C.,D. part and sand to shape)
F (1) 1/4" hole punch 010" thick / with (4) nut-bolt castings Grandt line # 127
G (7) nut-bolt washer casting Grandt Line # 23
H (1) washer 5/16" OD  1/8" ID
I (1) aluminum tube 1/8 x 3/8" long
J (1) aluminum rod 3/32" x 1/2" long / with small washer 1/4" OD 3/32" ID
K (1) styrene disk 5/8" OD x 020" thick (drill a 3/32" hole in the center.) (add ( nut-bolt washer Grandt line # 23)
m (1) 20 tooth sprocket (Serv-O-Link # S-202) (cut off the longer hob and sand flush)
Mounting Bracket
L (1) styrene 030" x 3/16" x 1" long (add (4) nut-bolt casting Grandt line # 128)
M (2) styrene 13/16" x 13/16" (add (12) nut-bolt casting Grandt Line # 128)  (shape)

Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[Scratchman]

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[marc_reusser]

<snip> A turn table only diorama with a turntable long  enough for loco and a car <snip>

Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Why would the turntable need to accomodate a car?....I thought the cars were couple-able from either end, so why would they need to be turned around?  would it nt be easy to do a wye at the end of the line?...one fork with a turntable, and the other to push the uncoupled cars onto while the loco was being turned and then returned to a place before the wye so the cars could be recoupled?

Marc

[artizen]

From a contemporary revue of the Lartigue Railway in Kerry - "The switching is done by eccentric turntables fitted with a curved portion of the rail" - they don't mention turning the carriages at all. Taken from a lengthy account of the line here - http://irishwaterwayshistory.com/about/miscellaneous-articles/the-lartigue-monorail-in-listowel/

Fascinating and very in-depth explanation of the current recreation of a portion of the original.

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks for that link, Ian.

So far, I have not found any photos of a turntable at all, just a patent granted to Thomas Wright. I assume there were turntables at each end, as they would be easy to construct.

Some photos show cars with one brake wheel and the words "front" and "rear" painted on the ends. I think this is because Wright's drag brake only worked in one direction, the same way a trolley pole can only be pulled, not pushed.  The locos also show only one brake wheel, indicating a need to be turned.

Most photos show a loco pulling one car. So I think they would likely turn the whole "train" so all of the drag brakes could be used, at least early on.
Other photos show cars with two brake wheels, maybe indicating that they were later modified to be able to travel in either direction, so they wouldn't need to be turned.

[Scratchman]

Here's a good photo of the bottom of the radiator. This is a great help for one of the harder parts to model on this tractor.



My modeling is going a little slower this week with a colonoscopy on Wednesday and surgery on my umbilical hernia today. Everything turn out good.

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

[Scratchman]

To finish up part 4, the Transmission core, I needed to add sides on the main casting. If I was only building one tractor I probably would have tried a truer profile, instead I went with something a little easier.

Here's a photo of the fixture that I used to cut the pipe into a wedge shape. For a better fixture I would have made the base 1/4" thick instead of the thicker one, and a piece to hold down the pipe from coming up when cutting. I will finish up this part when I can get back in to my shop.

 

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
   

[Ray Dunakin]

Gordon, I'm glad to hear that everything turned out ok and I wish you a speedy recovery. I may be facing the same type of surgery myself in the not too distant future.

[marc_reusser]

Gordon,

Glad to hear all went well with your proceedures, and glad to see you back modeling.

Ray...best wishes with your proceedure.


Marc

[Scratchman]

Thanks, guys it's good to have that all over with, and good luck with yours Ray.

Transmission core parts. part 4a

To finish up the transmission core I started with the two side  Cut on table saw with the fixture and I squared up the ends on the disk sander.


A (2) plastic pipe around 1 1/16" OD (cut to fit )
B (1) aluminum rod 3/32" x 2 3/4"- 3 1/2" long
C (2) Plastruct lamp shade  # LF-10
D (2) styrene tube 1/4" x 3/8" long
E (1) wood 1/16" x 1/2" x 2 5/16" long
F (2) styrene disk 010" x 5/16" diameter These parts are for the two control lever
G () Grandt Line  nut-bolts # 128



Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/