I thought I might revive the tractor locomotive I started a few years ago. But for that project I need a Fordson "N" version, which has quite a few differences from the older "F" model I did before. I did not want to try to modify another Danbury die cast; I wanted to do the whole thing this time. So, I have been chipping away at producing the CAD parts that I will get printed at a later time.
Many of these parts have been quite challenging for me. The machine parts I usually design are simpler than the castings from this tractor. I have been watching some online tutorials to learn how to make the more complex shapes required. It is hard to imagine how the Ford designers did it all on drafting boards, almost a hundred years ago.
So, we shall see. The only reason I would do one more of these is because there are a lot of differences from the previous ones, plus I don't have to paint it grey! And even if I don't finish it, it's been fun stretching my CAD legs.
I am using Solidworks for this.
(https://images42.fotki.com/v1423/photos/9/777399/16396812/LO-vi.jpg)
(https://images20.fotki.com/v1666/photos/9/777399/16396812/LOO-vi.jpg)
(https://images40.fotki.com/v1668/photos/9/777399/16396812/LLO-vi.jpg)
(https://images42.fotki.com/v886/photos/9/777399/16396812/z1-vi.jpg)
(https://images42.fotki.com/v1416/photos/9/777399/16396812/22-vi.jpg)
(https://images46.fotki.com/v1645/photos/9/777399/16396812/23-vi.jpg)
(https://images41.fotki.com/v1673/photos/9/777399/16396812/23MM-vi.jpg)
(https://images15.fotki.com/v1674/photos/9/777399/16396812/289-vi.jpg)
(https://images15.fotki.com/v1674/photos/9/777399/16396812/KJ-vi.jpg)
Very cool!
Creating such a drawing must be almost as satisfying as creating the model itself. At least it has been for me. -- Russ
As something of a CAD junkie myself, those are nicely done Chuck. Older, traditional media technical drawings have always been a source of fascination and inspiration, at least for me, but what is really impressive are the traditional skills of the die and pattern makers.
Chuck, Even when you're in learning mode you're still way ahead of the pack.
Chuck,
Excellent 3D drawings. Way ahead of my small knowledge of 3D modeling. I'll be following along.
One question I have that a lot of modelers never mention is where they got their dimensions from. Do you have drawings of the individual parts. I guess what I'm asking how did you know the dimensions of each part?
Bernd
The "Master" takes on another challenge!!
Beautiful work Chuck.
Jerry
Quote from: Bernd on September 22, 2021, 05:10:47 AMExcellent 3D drawings. Way ahead of my small knowledge of 3D modeling.
But I am very grateful when Chuck writes about his learning by numerous tutorials too. I have taken a quick search relating Solidworks tutorials. Very interesting!
Unfortunately I always have to peer to tutorials for other CAD software, as there is about nill to my CorelCad.
Cheers, Peter
P.S. Perhaps you or someone else has a hint/link for CorelCad users?
Wonderful, I love such constructions!
I'm curious how it goes from here.
Frithjof
Mind - blowing stuff this is Chuck - just keep it coming
Barney
Thanks for the nice words! Russ, I find it satisfying too, the hardest part is containing my OCD and realizing that "good enough" is sometimes good enough. Thanks Paul your own CAD work is the gold standard. Sorry Peter, I only know a bit about Solidworks.
Bernd, I started with a nice dimensioned drawing I found in a Facebook Fordson group. I already knew the wheelbase was 63", so I printed the drawing and measured the wheelbase and divided by 63. That gave me the (closely approx.) dimension to scale the drawing. I also brought the drawing into Solidworks, scaled it to 1/16th size and overlaid my CAD model to see if I was in the ballpark. I also did the same thing with a nice side view photo. For the parts without dimensions, I just guessed using photos to size them the best I can. Ebay and similar sites are a great way to find separate parts, often with a lot of photo angles, and sometimes dimensions. I also found several restoration videos on Youtube, where intimate views of normally hard to see details can be found (hubba!).
Without factory blueprints or an actual tractor I know it won't be perfect, but it's Pretty Darn Close (AKA good enough).
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2atocTyxU6NJ5.jpg)
From Allan Condie on the Fordson Tractors 1917-52 group on Facebook. A VERY knowledgeable fellow.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2atocQnxU6NJ5.jpg)
The overlay drawing with some actual size dimensions added for reference. The CAD model is the cheesy yellow thing.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2atocbqxU6NJ5.jpg)
Photo overlay to compare with my CAD model, while making the engine block.
Chuck,
Thanks for taking the time to explain how you did that. Still quite baffling to me, but you've put some light on it for me to understand how it's done.
Bernd
Glorious beginnings.
I may be new to the forum, but I'm certainly no stranger to your work, Chuck.
Excited to finally have a front row seat on a new build of yours though. I'm here for the long haul, too.
Chuck,
I stop by from time to time to see what's up here. I'm happy to see you start any new project.
Although this work is mind baffling to me, I'm sure you have the ability to keep thses fellows motivated.
Everything you touch turns to gold.
Rich
Slow progress. Was hoping I could just do minor alterations to the 3D models I made for the tugger hoist tractor. But there are more differences than I realized.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aRUmJdxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aRUmvjxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aRU4zyxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aRUVJ8xU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aRUVEMxU6NJ5.jpg)
Just stunning, Chuck.
I'm curious, do you ever share/sell the STL files?
Just design it from scratch, Chuck. It may take longer but you'll be more satisfied with the result and it will be exactly as it should be. Besides, you're not on a deadline. -- Russ
Amazing work!!
Jerry
Inspirational work as always, Chuck... Beauty eh!, as they say in these parts.
Excellent CAD work, Chuck. I'm sure you put a lot of hours into it. But it's fun to see something come to life on the drawing board.
Bernhard
Hi Chuck you make it all look so easy great project.
cheers
Playing around with a possible paint scheme. This model year of the Fordson N was painted a dark blue.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aDeB25xU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://images41.fotki.com/v1670/photos/9/777399/11270393/ss-vi.jpg)
(https://images14.fotki.com/v1676/photos/9/777399/11270393/assd-vi.jpg)
That may be how it looked when new. Your model won't reflect that appearance so the color scheme may be less important than the weathering. The scheme you created looks good and, when you've done your magic, it will look even better. -- Russ
Nice color scheme.
Chuck, I think when you're done with that, the model won't have much in common with this design.
Very Nice - and the colour is looking great to
Barney
Or perhaps a bit dirty
Looks great Chuck but the real question is?
Is that the way it's going to look or is it going to be down and dirty?? :-\
Jerry
I like your choice of colors. But I also expect a Chuck-like weathering.
Bernhard
Very nice Chuck, colour combination is excellent. But, like Bernhard says, I also expect to see another example of your brilliant weathering.
I like the blue -- it's a nice change from the usual tractor colors.
Bernhard's wonderful project reminded me I haven't posted an update for a while. I have finished the first group of CAD parts and have had them printed at Shapeways. I'm going thru a bad case Modeling Malaise just now, so hopefully I will get back to this soon.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2a4WwndxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2a4WwGFxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2a4WwWqxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2a4WfVWxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2a4WfCnxU6NJ5.jpg)
Chuck, has Shapeways improved the resolution of its prints to keep up with that of companies offering affordable printers? The Elegoo Saturn, for example, costs $400 and produces prints much finer than what Shapeways was making a couple of years ago. -- Russ
Those parts look good!
Those parts do indeed look very good Chuck... clean and crisp.
Its such a pity that the Di-Cast people don't take so much attention to finesse and detail
Another Impressive Fordson to take your breath away "I just Love it" its so fine with incredible detail
Barney
Chuck, As russ noted, the parts do look cleaner. Excellent details I see some faint horizontal print lines in the first photo. And that material also looks whiter than the other photos which seem to be smoother and a very light gray. Or is that just the lighting?
These parts are the Fine Detail Plastic at the highest resolution. Still some fine layer lines in places. Bill, I soak them in Bestine to remove the wax inside and out. They turn opaque white (upper photo) when they are fully clean. The parts in the lower photo have a coat of grey primer so I can see what needs to be addressed. Still a huge time saving over scratchbuilding them, even if I could. (Which I can't)
Over the last two years, 3D printing in the model world has exploded. It is verging on being "common". I am also impressed by how many modelers are taking up the CAD end of it and designing their own original parts to print. I have been monitoring several of the Facebook 3D print groups, as well as individual modelers who have bought their own printers. I see stellar work, and, well, not so great parts too. The printers can be fussy, and I see mixed opinions on how easy/hard they are. There is a lot to know about print angles and support placement and resins and temperatures and curing and cleaning, etc. I'm pretty sure I will dive in one of these days, but for now it is super easy (lazy) to have them done for me.
That's awesome, Chuck! There's certainly a lot of work that went into it.
Is it possible to scale the model down to 1:35? Because I'm not really happy with the resin model from plusmodel that I always use.
Bernhard
Bernhard, it is quite easy to scale the 3D models down. The problem is that some of the edges and details will become too small or thin to print successfully. I am hoping to see some of the parts printed in 1/25th. That will give me an idea if anything smaller is possible.
The building of this tractor looks good.
I wait patiently for the rest.
Hello chuck,
It's just great how you progress step by step!
The prints look great!
Chuck,
the printed parts came out well - great CAD work. How did you make the radiator mesh? Several layers of some sheet material with spacers?
Cheers,
Volker
I found this image this afternoon on the photography website I visit. Looks as though Chuck paid a visit to the desert and got a little enthusiastic with his weathering powders. -- ssuR
Quote from: finescalerr on January 27, 2022, 04:44:35 PM
I found this image this afternoon on the photography website I visit. Looks as though Chuck paid a visit to the desert and got a little enthusiastic with his weathering powders. -- ssuR
What a beautifully weathered machine! I wonder where that is?
Love that!
I like rust!
Bernhard
You sure that's not one of Chuck's models?
Jerry
If that tractor in the desert was close to me it would sitting on my property Now ;D
I'd love to try printing some of these pieces at 1:87 scale! Love your work, Chuck. As always.
Another great project.
All the best Kim.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aLC2h5xU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aLC2CNxU6NJ5.jpg)
I finally got some time on my project. Applied the yellow to the frame and started the chipping.
Why have you been so short of modeling time? Or are you just not in the mood sometimes ... like the rest of us? -- Russ
Looks good! I like that yellow.
What remains to be said?
Keep up the good work!
Looks great. Can't wait to see the chipping all done.
Jerry
A good start as usual !
Quote from: Chuck Doan on December 30, 2021, 06:56:29 PM
Bernhard, it is quite easy to scale the 3D models down. The problem is that some of the edges and details will become too small or thin to print successfully. I am hoping to see some of the parts printed in 1/25th. That will give me an idea if anything smaller is possible.
Chuck
I have a couple of resin printers and would be happy to have a look at scale downs if you are interested.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2agaDGnxU6NJ5.jpg)
Added some safety stripes and some more chips.
Well what can we say !! - but I will try - excellent as usual - just keep it coming it gives me inspiration
Barney
Starting to shape up. -- Russ
Perfect!!
Jerry
Quote from: Chuck Doan on March 19, 2022, 02:40:22 PM
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2agaDGnxU6NJ5.jpg)
Added some safety stripes and some more chips.
Hi Chuck, what technique do you use to do that with the chips? That looks great on the model.
Chuck, Yep, you got it!
Thanks Guys!
Helmut, It is the hairspray technique.
The primer coat was Tamiya TS-1 Red Brown from the spray can. Let it dry thoroughly; in this case about six years, but normally at least a couple of days.
Then I applied hairspray using my airbrush. I use the type of hairspray that comes in a pump bottle (full strength). I did approx. two coats. I like the control I get, especially around a model like this one (inner and outer surfaces to reach).
After an hour, I airbrushed a custom mix of Tamiya XF red and yellow (Rellow or Yed, whichever you like), building up thin coats.
I let it dry for about 3 hours and then added the stripes. I drew the end beams in CAD with the stripes. I printed this drawing full scale, and taped it over some Post-Its and cut some masks. I applied the masks and airbrushed some Tamiya black mix. The Post It stickum is just right for this purpose.
Then I started the chipping. I use a small nylon brush...apply a bit of water to the area and begin lightly brushing until the paint begins to chip. Sometimes a toothpick can be used to break the paint up, but be careful. The exposed surface you see is the Tamiya Red Brown undercoat. I will go back and add some variations to some of the chips.
I love the technique, but it is subjective. This is the second try for this; I got impatient with the yellow coat and built it up too quickly, and my chips were too thick and rounded. So a quick dunk in Windex removed the yellow, but left the enamel undercoat untouched. The next time I built up the yellow color in thinner coats, and the chipping was better. It will also probably help to have a higher quality airbrush than mine. I have seen some sublime chipping done on 1/72 scale tanks.
I love the weldseams.
Thanks!
I got the side numbers on, using the post-it mask method. First productive modeling weekend in about 8 months.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2agcpJzxU6NJ5.jpg)
Beautiful!
Glad to see you pulled this one out of the archives!!
Your work goes without saying anything!
Jerry
And now the ordeal for all ,,normal" modeler starts over again...
Cheers,
Peter
BTW. Chuck, this might be your next project? No?
(https://images42.fotki.com/v1658/photos/4/3824994/14463210/Fordson-vi.jpg)
Well done, very subtle and realistic.
Bernhard
Excellent work as usual Chuck... loving the yellow.
Peter: That Fordson with the sidecar is bloody brilliant. Someone is going to have to model that.
Looking Great - and a very nice colour to it just looks industrial
Barney
The tractor with the side car is yet another proof that there's a prototype for everything!
Finally starting to throw some dirt n oil on it.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aqN3YNxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aqN3RjxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aqN37rxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2aqN3s8xU6NJ5.jpg)
That is some fantastic grime and crud!
For some reason it looks better with dirt. -- Russ
Your talent of dirt and grime is just so realistic!!!
Jerry
Chuck, That's some dirt slinglin'. Looking like it's been 'round the block a few... thousand times.
Amazing - Just amazing
Barney
Bloody perfect... as usual.
Hello Chuck, absolutely realistic
The weathering effects are very realist. I'm impressed.
Thanks very much! Craig, that might be cutting it close.
Slowly spreading the filth...
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2ayfPLvxU6NJ5.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2ayfPgUxU6NJ5.jpg)
Whow!!!!!!
Chuck, could it be that you described once before how do you archive such hyperrealistic worn metal surfaces like those on the wheel cases (even though we will never archieve a similar outcome ;-)?
Disturbingly but enjoyably perfect. -- Russ
Superlatives fail me... just incredible work Chuck :o :o
Thanks guys!
Peter, it was first chipped with the hairspray method described earlier. Then I rubbed a soft lead pencil on some sandpaper, and picked that up with a cosmetic sponge held in tweezers. Dabbed the sponge on the bare metal areas, and then lightly burnished it with a cotton swab. Then some back and forth with black oil wash and more burnishing. I tried to keep the sheen without it being too bright. Then rubbed the pencil directly on the corners for just a touch of bright. Then a bit of tan pigment "dirt". Very old school.
Is that chain actually made of metal?
Yes, it's 1/8th scale chain for an RC motorcycle. Made by Kyosho. Scales perfectly for 2" pitch roller chain in 1/16th scale.
Chuck, Do you find a significant advantage intially applying graphite with a cosmetic sponge rather than just rubbing the soft pencil over the area?
I ask because when I first saw the effect you got using graphite (years back) I started using it also to add a little highlight or create a burnished weathered iron look, but maybe because my stuff is smaller HO scale, it seems like there's better control using a penil and burnishing it with an artist's paper stump.
Your wonderful weathering front and center!
Jerry
Thanks Jerry. Bill, that works too, I was trying to get a duller sheen here. I did apply the pencil directly on the edges.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2ayg7AzxU6NJ5.jpg)
Adding more grease. I am using a mix of black and brown oil paints, mixed with fine powdered dirt. Stippled on with a brush, and/or dabbed on with a piece of cosmetic sponge held with tweezers. Also sometimes mixed with Bragdon pigments.
Looks like an old CD works pretty well as a palette.
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on June 12, 2022, 09:13:35 PM
Looks like an old CD works pretty well as a palette.
Finally, one of Russ's CDs finds a good use. !
Alright, I'm going .
Nick
My CDs may not be art but at least they can contribute to it. Nick, you may come out of the corner in 2028. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on June 13, 2022, 12:01:46 AM
My CDs may not be art but at least they can contribute to it. Nick, you may come out of the corner in 2028. -- Russ
Cor , that soon ? Does that mean I can come out early if I behave myself? That might be asking too much of me .
Nick
That depends on how many of my CDs Chuck uses as pallets between now and then. -- Russ
Don't worry, not yours Russ, it was the soundtrack to Paint Your Wagon.
Quote from: Chuck Doan on June 13, 2022, 03:23:52 PM
Don't worry, not yours Russ, it was the soundtrack to Paint Your Wagon.
Don't you mean Paint Your Fordson ?!
I have that Paint your wagon CD - still play it sometimes....
Can't say much Chuck I just agree with the rest of the gang.
What more can I say about quality of work than other members ?
That chuck wagon is pretty bloody good .
Chuck,
I'm always speechless - but also very excited!
Only the far side and front left to do. I am still using the black and brown oil paint mixed with fine dirt for the oil/grease. I made cotter pins for the spring shackles by scraping some .015 brass wire half flat, annealing, and then bending around to make the pins.
This is how the other side looks.
Yeah, that new oily dirt should do pretty nicely. -- Russ
One can only say so many things about your work.
It is just so impressive with each step you do.
Jerry
This oily dirt is so incredibly realistic!
Bernhard
Chuck, your photos look like shots for a service manual of an actual frame being worked on.
Oily, grimy, greasy dirt never looked so good!
Stuart
Ah For the smell of grudge - dirt - oil and grease - things just get better around here
Barney
I love the way you do the oily crud. It looks incredibly realistic.
Hi Chuck.
Such an interesting project to follow.
cheers
There's nothing I can add that hasn't already been said. Just love watching the progress.
Thanks!
Got some more filthing done on the front.
Looks pretty good so far. -- Russ
I must agree with Unc on that!!
Jerry
A quick sandblast and a trip to the spray shop and that will look good as new!
It is cool to see the gold standard of weathering beeing hammered out right in front of you!
Grot and rust most realistic - and I agree with all
Barney
Thanks very much!
I skipped ahead a bit and finished one of the side chain drives. Made with 3D printed sprockets and Kyosho RC motorcycle chain. Grease is a mix of brown and black oil paint mixed with fine powdered dirt. Sprocket tips were polished with pencil lead. Chain guard (such as it is) made from .01 styrene. Painted a slightly different yellow as it was a later addition.
Acceptable. But please note the lower right hand sprocket tooth needs more pencil lead. -- Russ
I can almost smell the grease!
This is really high art!
Bernhard
Well done.
It's just so realistic!!
Jerry
With Chuck we are never disappointed.
Great work as usual !
Working on the wheels. Adding The Shining with Rub N Buff and Uschi steel polishing powder, using my hi-tech Foredom "lathe". Chasing it with thinned gouache also applied while spinning.
Far and away the nicest reproduction of tyre steel I've ever seen. But we expected that.
Those fine and ultrafine striae, dents, scratches on the polished parts are absolute incredible.
And those slight nuances on the running surface between particularly stressed parts and the outher side is just phenomenal.
I am convinced it isn't just a matter of modelling at ist best, it is also a matter of observation skills...
Wowed again!
Peter
Just another masterpiece by the "MASTER"
Jerry
The work on the wheels is impressive.
Pretty speechless, Chuck.
Cheers,
Volker
Amazing, just amazing work. :o
Amazing Grot and fester
Barney
Stunningly great work, as usual!
You obviously are cheating by using such hi-tech tools but the results are nonetheless adequate. -- Russ
Thanks for the nice words! I was happy that an old fashioned product like Rub N Buff was still relevant.
Here is the toolbox for the front of the locomotive. Basswood, oil stains and Prismacolor Premier pencil freehand grain.
box z 20.jpg
And the finished pics of the chassis.
b 20.jpgc 20.jpg
Outstanding work as usual. Think I'll give a try on using Prismacolor pencils for wood grain on one of my projects. Thanks for the tip.
Stuart
Great guns, Batman, look at that fantastic model! -- Russ
Outstanding from every point of view.
It all looks great but that wood grain is especially impressive!
How on earth is that possible? :o
That wood grain is.....wow!
Les
Like the others have said...amazing all around!
It looks like the darker wood grain is actually a smidge higher than the lighter grain. Is that for real? If so how did you accomplish that so evenly - careful pencil pressure? If instead it's colored pencil shading that created that almost imperceptible effect, how in the world did you do that!?
Some great Art !
So inspirational! I'll scurry back to the workbench invigorated.
Gasp - Cough - and Spit With A Few Wow's
Barney
Simply brilliant, always great to see!
All the best Chuck as always most interesting.
Fantastic as always Chuck, always a pleasure to see one of your updates.
Karl. A
One for Fordson lovers everywhere.
A future project perhaps...
Just amazing! Love that tool box and done with pencil!!
Jerry
One for Chuck
a 2ft gauge petrol/kerosene Fordson built by W. Day & Sons, South Melbourne, Victoria, Australia about 1930. Worked at Fairymead Sugar Mill, Queensland til around 1969. Now on display at Illawarra Light Railway, south of Sydney. Apparently it's a pig to operate, difficult to start, rough riding and sharp on the clutch.
Les
2ft gauge Fordson.JPG2ft gauge Fordson.JPG
Donm't know why its appears twice!!
Thanks for the pics Les!
Seems it's been a while. I have been slowly plugging away at the tractor portion of my locomotive. Got some paint on it, it's a mix of Vallejo acrylics applied with an airbrush. Grease and oil with the usual oil paints mixed with fine powdered dirt and/or pigments. I recently got back to it and finished the ignition magneto and its control rods. A mix of 3D printed parts and some simple fabricating. I have almost finished all of the CAD, save the seat and the gas tank end with the lettering. There are a lot of details on this thing.
Some of the CAD stuff:
Wow, what a lot of complicated little details!
Overwhelming. I'm glad you're still modeling and sharing your progress with us. -- Russ