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2 Foot gauge tractor loco in 1/16th scale

Started by Chuck Doan, March 02, 2015, 06:42:29 PM

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Ray Dunakin

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

1-32

looking good chuck but will it work.
kind regards kim

finescalerr

I'm glad you are back at the bench and look forward to watching all this come together. -- Russ

lab-dad

Great solution!
I like what you did.
Very accurate dimensions too and plenty strong now.

-Mj

Bill Gill

That's a nice beam, but i'm impressed with the strength of that toothpick! :) Good to see this project again.

Hydrostat

Very good DIY solution with the beams - I'm looking forward to your progress. I think it would have been a bit difficult to mill the profile's sloped shoulders and fillets, unless there's a 5-axis machining center available.

Cheers,
Volker
I'll make it. If I have to fly the five feet like a birdie.

I'll fly it. I'll make it.

TRAINS1941

Nice job Chuck.  Looks really good and glad your leaving the yacht and girls alone for the winter.

Wait a minute you don't have winter there!!!

Jerry
Why isn't there mouse-flavored cat food?
George Carlin

Peter_T1958

Hi Chuck

I love you "DIY solution" with the beams. What a result with basic modeling techniques!

Quote from: Chuck Doan on November 22, 2015, 12:50:41 PM
All seemed well, but once I started cleaning the wax off, it began bowing and yawning enough to convince me the FUD material was too unstable to use.

I am a bit anxious now as my Transmission wheels (In fact, Volker created them!) are the same FUD material. Is there a risk that they will behave in the same manner one day? :-\

One more question to your JB Weld fillets:
When I had to fill up panel lines to engrave them anew, I had to learn that the filler should have about the same consistence as the surrounding matrerial.  This was the key for smooth surfaces. Up to this day I used SuperGlue with Baking Soda. Now, would that mean, your JB Weld is about equally hard as Styrene ???

Thanks, Peter
"Siplicity is the ultimate sophistication" -Leonardo Da Vinci-

https://industrial-heritage-in-scale.blogspot.ch/

lab-dad

Peter,
Not to hijack Chucks thread but in my opinion the JB weld is darn close to styrene as far as hardness. I have used both quite a bit but never together - yet!
If it is critical you could always use styrene softened  in solvent for the filler.

Mj

Chuck Doan

#99
Thanks Jerry, I will try to dream about the girls and the yacht tonight and remind them.

Peter, I don't think you will have any trouble. My frame was 2.5 x 6.8 inches and the sections were very thin. I have not had any issues with FUD parts otherwise. I just pushed the envelope a bit too far this time.

I used the JB just as a test, and it worked fine. But I wasn't trying to re-work anything afterwards, so I don't know how well it might re-scribe. I have used it to build up shapes, but I haven't cut into it. Might be kind of crumbly in thin sections.

I will write up what I did, it required virtually no re-work after application. It does seem to stick to styrene; I tried soda-blasting the fillets and they stayed fine.


"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

Bill Gill

Last year I experimented with making rivet heads by applying tiny dots of thick CA onto barely marked location dimples on the side of a pair of HO flatcars. The technique worked fairly well. More recently I experimented using JB Weld instead and when the timing was right, the method worked even better because the JB Weld was more viscous and stayed in place better. There are a couple rivet heads that spread out a little in both cases. The CA is very brittle and really hard to clean up. I haven't tried gently scraping away the excess JB Weld yet. The rivets are very small and might just pop off the styrene. Fortunately the piece represents old rolling stock and a couple mashed rivets don't look out of place. However, Some day i will make a test strip of rivets on some scrap styrene and see how ell the JB Weld can be reshaped when that small.

Chuck Doan

The JB weld is easy to scrape or sand. I often use the 5 minute version for minor fills. I used the regular stuff for my fillets so I would have lots of time to work it. As Bill says it is viscous and I had no spreading after my fillets were formed.
"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

Chuck Doan



The prototype frame is welded together, so I started testing some ideas for weld seams. As I had successfully used JB weld for my fillets, I decided to try it for welds.

So far: Apply with a small brush (brush can be cleaned with acetone) along desired seam. Let it set for approx. 3 hours and then work with a tool made from brass tubing. The JB weld is very forgiving and it can be pushed around with a sharp toothpick to even up/form the edges.

This is a test frame. I gave it a quick coat of black primer. Macro shots taken from 1/2" away. Looks promising so far.


Press lightly into seam with the cut side down.


"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/

lab-dad


Ray Dunakin

Ok, I actually thought those were shots of the prototype welds, and wondered for a moment what happened to the shots of the model! Yes, it looks that real!


Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World