I finished the window for my ½" scale garage. I used the same construction methods as I did for the one in my barn diorama. I made the frames from O scale 1 X thick basswood and I filled them with panes of microscope cover glass secured with Squadron white putty. The upper pane was deliberately cracked, but the lower one cracked in handling. One pane has unpainted putty simulating a more "recent" repair, perhaps the reason for the security bars. The shade is spray painted tracing paper and the security bars are .02 x .06 styrene strips with Grandt Line rivet heads. After cutting and adding the rivets, the bars were first sprayed with Pactra flat black and allowed to dry overnight. Then I painted them with several water-thinned coats of Polly Scale green. After about 10 minutes dry time, I took a short stiff brush, dipped it in water and carefully brushed the piece until the paint softened and began to chip, exposing the flat black. Then I used gouache and weathering powders to add the fading, streaking, rust colors and bleed thru. The backs of the windows were dusted with fine powdery dirt. A few sawdust chip leaves were added to the sill as a final touch. The Champion decal is from Microscale decals, and the closed sign was printed from a picture found on Flickr.
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Chuck, very nice work.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Hello Chuck,
with you, the only "problem", that become impossible to recognize reality with the model, or the model with reality!
You work with a microscope?
Wonderfull work and great quality of photograph
Sincerely!
Lloyd
Chuck
As one would expect a very nice job indeed, great photo's. And a very good tutorial.
Jerry
Holy moly!! I think you just "raised the bar" again! Amazing work!
Are those the street numbers by the upper right corner of the door? Where did you get those?
What did you use for the screen?
Chuck, I am exasperated by your abuse of this forum. You continally try to pass off actual derelict structures as models. If you continue with this charade I may be forced to take punitive action.
On the other hand, your photos do provide inspiration to all of us so some lenience is possible. Besides, the fictitious techniques you have described actually do work when real modelers employ them.
Finally, your penalty for humor a couple of weeks ago was to attend yesterday's Terrapin meet. You failed to appear. Your parole officer may force you, at gunpoint, to attend my meet in November at which time you will be subjected to intense interrogation (and perhaps admiration) by all modelers present.
On a less serious note, if it is even possible, the current model may be your best yet. I have run out of superlatives to describe my reaction.
Russ
I will not spoil the moment with words, just enjoy looking at it.
thanks
Jacq
Thanks very much!
Ray, the numbers are Grandt Line HO building date numbers. The screening is made from Stainless steel wire cloth. I think it was 180 mesh. I got it from Mcmaster-Carr industrial supply in a 12" square piece. I cut the pieces and dipped them in printed circuit board etchant to thin them a bit (careful, they will eventually dissolve!) and to darken the color. Final coloring was with thinned Burnt Umber Gousche applied with a cosmetic sponge so as not to fill the fine holes. It is easy to add distressing if desired.
www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-steel-wire-cloth/ =1ddbc9
www.mcmaster.com/#85385t712/=1ddd0z
Russ, I can't recall what attempt at humor got me into so much trouble. Wished I could have made it to the meet.
Fabulous work as usual Chuck. Interesting rendition of the metal drip originally painted like the siding. Thanks for the how-to. It's quite possible that your optician is the best in the world as you see things more clearly than anyone I know.
Very very nice... as always Great Chuck!! You are a great teacher for all!! Thanks for sharing!
Quote from: Chuck Doan on July 20, 2009, 02:38:26 PM
Thanks very much!
Ray, the numbers are Grandt Line HO building date numbers.
I'm having trouble finding those on their website. Are they part of a kit?
Thanks for the nice words! Chester, I thank FLickr. A whole bunch of weathering enablers over there.
Ray, It it is P/N 5219, building plates and numbers. Its 3532 in O scale architectural details with a picture. the HO numbers are .100 high I believe.
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Ah, I see. Thanks Chuck!
Awesome, outstanding...As always Magic Chuck! ;) :P
Chuck,
The security bars aren't quite parallel........................................ ;D
Would probably score quite badly as a NMRA structure;
poor paint job, boards not square, cracked glass during construction (note to builder, be more gentle with your technique), poor transfer of decals and signage, needs more glue where numbers have fallen off, incomplete paint finish on window, could do with a general clean...
About time you introduced some of this piece to the forum!
Dan
Thanks Franck!
Dan, it's been a long time since I filled out an NMRA contest form, but you are probably right! After taking pains to be so sloppy some judge would likely dock me for it. I should just add a smeary fingerprint and be done with it.
Chuck -
Amazing attention to the seemingly insignificant details that aren't at all insignificant to the whole. Such as...
> the paint on the door frame showing the frame was at some time painted after the numbers were installed
> the subtle signs of water damage at the bottom of the window frame just above the sill
> appropriate wear, grime, and burnishing where countless hands have opened the screen door
You've done a fantastic job of breaking the weathering apart into smaller, focused applications appropriate to that specific spot. Much more realistic than an overall mist of the dust-colored paint. Bravo!
Mark
Hello Chuck,
That is some remarkable work.... It is a level of detail I rarley see. :)
thanks for sharing your workings with Us....
Mike
Chuck showed this on another Forum and is getting the same responses over there.
He not only observes and absorbs the smallest details imaginable, he can replicate them perfectly.
This is simply other-worldly. Chuck's gotta be some sort of alien or something.
Amazing creation!! Pure eye candy....
Thanks Guys!
Here is another try of the hairspray method. A vent pipe for an underground storage tank made from .06 diameter Plastruct styrene. Since I am airbrush illiterate, I have a problem if I want to hand-brush acrylics, since they will cut the water based hairspray. So I tried the following:
Testors Flat Black spray can base coat-dry overnite. (Floquil Roof Brown is good too, but takes too long to dry)
Fairly heavy aerosol Treseme hairspray-dry 10 min.
Light seal coat of Flat Black spray-dry 10 min. (I think Dullcoat could work too)
Water-thinned, brushed on coats of Polly Scale colors that match the wall. Dry 10 min.
Start removing paint with small water wet stiff paintbrush. Came off easy.
Fade with white gwosh, seal with Dullcoat.
Add rust gwosh (Burnt Sienna), Bragdon powders to chipped areas using sharp brush, sponge and stump. Seal with Dullcoat.
Streaks added with rust gwosh with sharp brush n spit. Still playing with that.
The crackle finish near the top occurred after I applied the first coats of Polly Scale and held it up to a Halogen desk lamp to speed dry. I couldn't get it to repeat predictably though. The clamp was made from .002 shim stock, folded around the pipe. Added a rib with half shaved .010 Plastruct styrene rod and super glued on. Screws are Tichy plastic rivets with slots cut in.
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A few quick shots in 100 degree sun (not counting that it's 24 times larger for this model!)
It doesn't get more real-looking than that, Chuck. The vent pipe is amazing.
I keep saying I have to try the "water-based-hair-spray/picked-off-peeled-paint" technique.
This clinches it.
Chuck ,
As usual your finishes are second to none .
I know that the crackled effect came about accidentally , is it an effect you want to reproduce more often ?
If so , have you tried using artists cracking and aging varnishes ? I believe a number of companies make them and thought that they might produce the effect you were after . I saw this on a 1/24th scale Opel Blitz truck by Stefano Zaghetto that came out particularly well . I think you may be familiar with the article .
Nick
Thanks Ken, Try it it's easy. Test on a scrap part though. But you knew that.
Hi Nick, I hadn't thought of doing that effect at first, but it would be nice to add now and then. Most of the craft store finishes seem too big. I forgot about that article, I'll look it up to see what he did. That was the best use I have seen!
Found it:
http://www.gmpat.it/images/images%20galmezzimil/Opel%20Stefano/TETTO%202_rid.JPG
http://www.gmpat.it/images/images%20galmezzimil/Opel%20Stefano/PARAFANGO_rid.JPG
Thanks for the link, Chuck. I've seen that, too, but didn't he use some obscure brand of crackle-stuff
that was only available in Europe? I might be wrong on that source, but my experiments with craft
store crackle paste have never turned out results like THAT.
PS: I ordered an "air eraser" from Harbor Freight last week (on sale for 20-bucks) that should be here any day.
I'm anxious to see what kind of worn-paint effects it'll create. Either way, it should be worth $20 of fun.
Have any of you guys used one for weathering?
Geez Chuck,
You don't miss much! The "experiment" looks pretty darn close to my eye. Incredible combination of chips/rusts/streaks running down the pipe. The clamp detail is a really nice little piece in itself.
The garage door is a bit too bright for my liking though ;D
Dan
I can't believe how excited I got over viewing a mere pipe but it really is super Chuck. Hey, that's it!.... SuperChuck! The caped model crusader.
Thanks, Dan! Next time I'll print it on some plain brown wrapping paper.
Ken, I have used mine with the baking soda for dulling the paint on the boards for this project. Marc has done some tests on wood and metal as well. Should be fun to play with!
Thanks, Chester, that's just Super. :D
Hey Chuck,
just when I think I have seen your best ..here you come with more of that finescale detail stuff... ;D
Great work... I'm lovin it..
I did look at those pictures... that paint cracking affect is well known in the autobody industry.. except it is not a desired effect... it would normally mean a new paint job on that part. (they call it "checking paint" or "spidering")
If any of you were not already aware of how...next chance you get stop by an autobody paint shop with that picture. (and I'm sure you will find out how that can be done on purpose with ease, in any desired scale)
the weathering part you could teach the autobody painter...hehehe
Mike
Wow... not many people would even think to put in the rib detail on that pipe clamp!
Quote from: Ken Hamilton on July 27, 2009, 12:22:10 PM
Thanks for the link, Chuck. I've seen that, too, but didn't he use some obscure brand of crackle-stuff
that was only available in Europe? I might be wrong on that source, but my experiments with craft
store crackle paste have never turned out results like THAT
Ken ,
The aging and cracking fluids that Stefano used are made by Maimeri , an Italian company , and I would guess may not be readily available in the US .
The ones I have are made by a French company called Lefranc & Bourgeois , but I'm not sure that they are exactly the same sort of stuff . I did try experimenting with mine but didn't get very far .
I think "cracking" and "crackle" are two different effects . In order to achieve cracking you need two different fluids the second of which reacts to the first when it dries . After it has dried a wash of dark oil colour highlights the cracks .
Nick
Chuck, nice vent pipe finish!
Franck
Vallejo makes a cracking/crackle fluid specifically for model use.
Marc
I'll look that up, thanks!
Me, too.
Thanks Marc.
Chuck
Not much one can say about your work and the detail you put into it!!! Just outstanding.
Jerry
Thanks Franck and Jerry!
I found a couple of forum sites where they discuss the Vallejo crackle. Seems like it it hard to get consistant results. Saw something about using thinned PVA as a base coat...
Crackle mediums will probably work better (don't know about consistant....but then what the hell in nature ages in a consistant fashion) if you use a paint that dries hard(er) over it. By this I mean something like Floquil or maybe the Tamiya acrylics...and applied in a thinner layer/coat....the process depends on the shrinkage of the crackle medium, to be different from the shrinkage and expansion properties of the paint....so a paint that shrinks less, and is less flexible, should tend to crack more, whereas the more flexible acrylics like Vallejo or Pollyscale, might not do as well, because they can stretch/move in conjunction with the medium.
......basically something to that effect.
Guache would likely work well as it dries pretty hard/stiff.
Something to be very careful of (and test first) when working with a crackle mediums, is that they (at least the ones I have used/seen) tend to "reactivate" when paint is applied over them....especially when it is brushed, applied too wet, or "worked" too long. This then starts to lift/blob/smear/intermix the medium...and this cause a potentailly unwanted surface finish or goopy mess, which will likely not react as you wanted it to. This may be desirable for some finishes at certain scales...or at 1:!...but can more often than not be detrimental to a scale model.
Marc
(FWIW, my limited experience with crackle mediums comes from doing 1/1 scale furniture and wall paneling finishes/effects....have not really pursued it much on scale models.)
BTW. Chuck.....as always, the work is most stunning...haven't said much, because it has all already been said, and I really don't know what to add to them. Thanks for the SBS's...they are inspiring, great fun and really helpful.
As with all your work, they say not to try to model a model... but I really have to question that saying with your work. True eye candy.
Quote from: marc_reusser on July 29, 2009, 12:58:35 PM
Something to be very careful of (and test first) when working with a crackle mediums, is that they (at least the ones I have used/seen) tend to "reactivate" when paint is applied over them....especially when it is brushed, applied too wet, or "worked" too long. This then starts to lift/blob/smear/intermix the medium...and this cause a potentailly unwanted surface finish or goopy mess, which will likely not react as you wanted it to. This may be desirable for some finishes at certain scales...or at 1:!...but can more often than not be detrimental to a scale model.
That's very true, Marc. Last night I started playing with "Folk Art Crackle Medium" (readily available is just about all craft stores) and "Jo Sonja" acrylic paints (my favorite dead-flat tube paints). You really do have to put it on quick, not work it too much and keep the water content under control or you DO end up with a mess. Several areas turned out pretty well - now I need to figure out how to duplicate those results.
It appears the "cracks" follow the direction of the brush strokes used to apply the crackle medium, which is great for wood. Since I'm trying to duplicate spiderweb cracking on metal surfaces, I'm wondering if the cracks would be more random if the crackle-stuff were stippled onto the surface. That's tonight's experiment.....
Ken,
I have considered...but not gotten around to trying it....of slightly thinning and then airbrushing the crackle medium using one of my cheaper airbrushes.
From my experience/observation, the "following the brush stroke" issue with the medium seems to be due to the different thicknesses and density (even minute ones) in the thickness of the medium left by the brush strokes/bristles. This can be exascerbated by the brush strokes/thickness of the paint (and reactivation of the medium) as well. I have found that Airbrushing the color/paint over the medium helps a bit with this issue, so does slightly diluting the medium to get a more even/smooth/thin application.....but on larger areas/surfaces it still could be an issue.
Since these mediums are really meant for "art" and "craft" applications where scale is not generally an issue they are on the heavy and thick side, and are applied fairly thick (in comparison to our model needs)......and for art and craft projects brush strokes are not really considered an issue. The thickness of the applied medium also directly affects they type and quantity of crackle....so we really need to be either thinning/modifying this stuff to a more scale material/medium, or trying to find one that is maybe meant for very special high end (museum quality use).
I am sure that there are other materials/ways that can be used to create this effect in scale, as it really is just a matter of disparate shrinkage between the under and over coat ....one might be a ble to get a sim and finescale effect by say using a standard more flexible acrylic paint for the base layer, and then shooting something more hard and rigid for the top layer.....maybe placing it under a heat source such as the a desk lamp to dry for a short ...or longer...period...thus causing the materials to dry, shrink and react in their different manners........just a thought.
Marc
there is this method.. one could try...using just plain old thinned out laqur paint on top of an enamel base hold under heat lamp for a couple miniutes and watch it crackle as it dries......
I do know there is a hardner that can be added to automotive paint...add to much and you end up with that checking/cracked paint job (due to the exspanding and contracting of the metal base surface) maybe there is one for acrylics and such?
Mike
Thanks MArc! I'll be intrested to see what you all come up with...what this country needs is a good scale crackle. And then its just a short step to alligatoring!
I fired up my lathe (Foredom drill press laid flat) and turned a "porcelain" light fixture from Plastruct styrene rod, and a bulb from clear sprue. Before I parted off the bulb I chucked it in a Makita drill and tranlucentized it with my soda blaster followed by some thinned gwosh and a coat of semi gloss spray. Dusted the top side with pigment powders. Briefly considered lettering the end with "Sylvania", but I let the moment pass. "GE" was much easier.
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Not as impressive as a working Corliss, but more my speed!
Chuck, that light bulb detail just made my day. You're amazing.
Could we get a close-up of that fixture?
Beautiful job!
PS: If you letter that bulb I'm going to throw myself out a window.
Thanks, Ken! I meant to take a shot in the lathe, but I forgot. Here's a blow-up:
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You gave me incentive to letter the bulb, but then I remembered you live in a one story house. ::) ;D
With a smear of green paint on the side?
I can't take it....(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fbestsmileys.com%2Fsilly%2F8.gif&hash=2eeb8f1b2cc3f5695640aa98c920ee99c8e35951)(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fbestsmileys.com%2Fbeatup%2F2.gif&hash=d4e7acaf24255e91ecfe33081471f80d721b3ceb)
Quote from: Ken Hamilton on August 04, 2009, 08:31:49 AM
Chuck, that light bulb detail just made my day. You're amazing.
Could we get a close-up of that fixture?
Beautiful job!
PS: If you letter that bulb I'm going to throw myself out a window.
Ken ,
If you look really closely you can see where Chuck fed the filament in the end of the bulb . And it screws into the holder ! .....NO , Ken , don't do it , I was only joking .
Nick
1/24 offers a lot of potential doesn't it? Man this is awesome work
Chuck, go stand in the corner. And no peeking. -- Russ
Chuck,
How did you color the light bulb to look so real? Do you think the method/technique used could be used in a smaller scale like HO or O?
I'm afraid the contest judges would be merciless with the sloppy paint. The filament was a pain, and it burned out the first time I plugged it in. Fortunately I was modeling a burned out bulb so it was all good!
Russ, I don't even leave the corner any more.
Thanks John, and welcome! I am really liking 1/2" inch scale.
Hon3, I used thinned gouache for color because I started with clear styrene. I have used the Grandt line ones in HO and O, that come in a frosted color. A dab of thinned gloss and they look good. I used semi-gloss on this one while turning it in a drill, thogh the later dusting killed some of the sheen.
I can only shake my head anymore Chuck. You constantly go beyond what I think is possible.
As always, Chuck, simply incredible modeling! :o And I hate you. You make me sick! ;D ;D
(A quick question: what did you use to thin the gouache before applying it to the styrene. I'd think water or anything similar would cause 'beading' on the plastic.)
Thanks Chester! Thanks Mike (i think)
I did use water, but while it was spinning. Took a few tries but it finally evened out. I think the soda blasting helped give it some tooth. Very tender though even after the seal coat (model master lacqer semi gloss)
I glued it in using white glue in case I screwed it up.
Thanks, Chuck. Your explanation about the soda blaster pitting the styrene just enough to give some tooth for the thinned gouache makes sense. I hadn't thought about that possibility/likelihood.
(And you know that I love you..... well, sort of.... ;D ;D)
Quote from: Ken Hamilton on August 04, 2009, 08:31:49 AM
Chuck, that light bulb detail just made my day. You're amazing.
Could we get a close-up of that fixture?
Beautiful job!
PS: If you letter that bulb I'm going to throw myself out a window.
Ken
I'm lucky I live on the first floor!!!
Jerry
Chuck
There is no more words to explain your work. Everytime you post it is just something out of the ordinary. What's next???
Jerry
There literally is nothing in this model that would give it away as not being real.
Simply amazing, Chuck.
Quote from: Ken Hamilton on August 05, 2009, 08:10:53 AM
There literally is nothing in this model that would give it away as not being real.
Simply amazing, Chuck.
Ken ,
You gotta feel sorry for Poor Chuck . He has achieved perfection and he is still only a boy . Where can he go from here ? Anything he does from now on would only be repeating himself . Maybe a layout ? ! ? At the speed he works that should take him the rest of his life.
Chuck ,
You've got this wood weathering thingey nailed . It is time for you to get out of your comfort zone . How about doing some scenery , or even paint a figure ? You know you want to .
NickO .. always full of helpful advice
When you turned the bulb, how did you prevent the plastic from melting and deforming? I tried turning a bottle from acrylic rod once, couldn't get it to work.
Nice bulb Chuck!
I recently painted headlight bulbs for a French railcar with Tamiya acrylic paint clear yellow X-24. I turned like you my bulb from a translucent styrene rod... I use too, clear red X-27 for sidelights...
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Thanks Jerry!
Certainly a good point Mr. Nick. There are a few new things in this project, plus the new scale. But yeah, pretty much same old same old. But it's fun. We'll see what turns up next.
Ray, I use a speed control on the "lathe". I run it pretty slow and use mostly files to do the shaping . I had no melting issues with either part. I haven't tried acrylic, but too much speed or a dull cutter may be the culprit.
Thanks for the heads up Franck. I haven't colored clear parts in ages.
I haven't tried it for modeling but in my work have turned clear Lexan at a medium speeds in the lathe with no melting. I've even been able to achieve a highly polished result.
Don't know if this is pertinent to the conversation or not, but.
A while back I was making some lamps for a coach, 1:20 scale
and I turned down some large (plastic/acrylic?) beads on the drill press with a file
of course it left the finish cloudy, I had resigned myself to telling everyone
that they were frosted glass. When I glued them to the finish washer shades
with AC they became crystal clear where the glue made contact. So smearing a little AC over the entire bead cleared up the whole situation, so to speak. Don't know if that was a fluke
or if it would work in other situations.
For what it's worth.
Rick Marty
Thanks for the tip, Rick! I like accidental discoveries like that.
Quote from: NORCALLOGGER on August 06, 2009, 03:30:17 PM
the entire bead cleared up the whole situation, so to speak. Don't know if that was a fluke
I don't believe it was a fluke, Rick. Basically, you added a clear coat which filled in the
light-dispersing peaks & valleys on the surface and created a smooth top surface that
"cleared" the part.
You would get similar results (ie: a smooth finish) by dipping the parts in Furture floor wax
or sprayed them with clear gloss. Car modelers to that all the time.
Chuck, i seen on your Fotki site that you are going to change the 7-up sign's to coke :-\ i think the 7-up signs look real good!!! and the coke signs are a whole lot new'er than the 7-up.....i think the new'er coke sign's dont fit the age??? of the building and the way your weathering the garage ;D dont want to get anyone mad at me, being im NEW just throwing my 2 cents in. signage and getting it right for the time frame your modeling in, i think is real important. a-lot of signs were put up when the building was new and aged with the building as time marched on. Craig MICH.
Not a problem, Craig! I haven't fully decided which sign to use. I also have no idea what time period I am modeling, but it could be the nineties or even later. The Coke signs came out in '69, so I would be covered...Flickr has a lot of great weathered ones on it. I am even considering a third attempt at a sign...
QuoteI don't believe it was a fluke, Rick. Basically, you added a clear coat which filled in the
light-dispersing peaks & valleys on the surface and created a smooth top surface that
"cleared" the part.
You would get similar results (ie: a smooth finish) by dipping the parts in Furture floor wax
or sprayed them with clear gloss. Car modelers to that all the time.
Hey that "quote" thing is cool, first time I ever used that.
Ken,
What you say makes good sense and I should have realized what was happening at the time.
I wonder if the Future or the clear spray would interfere with the binding of the AC to the surfaces being glued?
I have used the Future "wax" over flat paint on wood to give a good "Varnish" finish to wood passanger coaches before so am not surprised that it would work on the beads.
I guess we are poaching on Chuck's thread here and better quit.
Thanks for the info.
Rick Marty
Stunning work as always Chuck. Now I know who swiped my back porch door ;)
Paul
I haven't gotten a lot done lately, but I did finish a ubiquitous hose reel wheel deal. I modified a Galaxie Limited '48 Chevy wheel by turning the rim to a more correct profile and then drilling out the lug nuts. I then added a raised center hub with aluminum tubing, and some raised lug bumps using .050 brass tubing. I finished it off with some hubcap clips (correct for the '48) made from .005 styrene. I embossed a rivet, but they all but disappeared after painting. I only did 3 clips, and drilled out the rivet holes on the other locations.
I painted the wheel the same as the vent pipe I did previously: Testor's Flat Black from a spray can, and then hairspray, another Flat Black coat to seal, then Floquil Polly Scale brushed on in water thinned coats. I used a hair dryer to speed up the drying and got the crackle effect again. Then it was chipped with a stiff brush and water. Gouache and pigment powders finished it off.
I glued it onto a couple of pins topped with model RR nuts. Still needs some old red air hose wound around it, and a connector pipe. For reference, it is .68 in. diameter, about the same size as a U.S. dime.
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Original kit wheel on the left. Posed on a print of a '48 hubcap clip I found on the internet.
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http://images50.fotki.com/v393/fileME4f/3e9de/9/777399/7342487/3874940006_883cd7516b_b.jpg
Bigger pic
Going from "before" to "after" is rather a stunner. Is it real or is it Memorex? -- Russ
Hey Chuck,
That last photo... would fool anyone I know
(think I would have a harder time trying to tell/convince someone is was a model)
love the dirty around the wheel on the siding too.. ;D
fabulous work...
Mike
Looks perfect to me!
I was gonna say something about the hole for the valve stem but silly me, you would never forget something as important as that!
Thanks for the SBS, good info!
Thanks for posting!
-Marty
Wow just keeps getting better everytime. When I think you have done it all you come up witht the detail part no else has thought of.
Thanks for the info on how to do it and for posting the pictures.
Jerry
Ps Stay away from those fires out there!!!!!
Thanks all! Marty, they cast a valve stem in, so it was easy to remember! I almost did a wheel weight, but that would have been silly.
Thanks Jerry, we are away from the flames, but not the smoke.
Chuck,
Very nice as usual. Sorry I don't sign in very often but your work always leaves me wordless. Now you need a piece or two of old hose laying on the ground, and is there going to be a hose-bib of some sort near?
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Thanks Gordon!
Yeah, I'll do some hose and a valve, but probably after I finish some of the rough handling construction and get it mounted. I keep breaking things!
Oh sure... not only did you take the old screen door off my back porch, but now I know where my old Chevy wheel went too... ;)
Outstanding work as usual Chuck
Paul
Paul. all you gotta do is slap some new paint on all that stuff and I'd never touch it!
I reaching for the Krylon right now.... ;D ;D ;D
Paul
Quote from: Chuck Doan on September 02, 2009, 07:09:00 AM
Paul. all you gotta do is slap some new paint on all that stuff and I'd never touch it!
By all means please stop by and bring a big truck. Nothing I own has much paint on it.
Not much progress lately. I did test fit the garage doors. They still need some nails and other hardware.
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(...I wish I could at least pretend not to be insanely jealous of you....)
On a more civil note, the initial sketch in your Fotki album shows a gas pump.
Is that still in the equation? And you did say you're wrapping a hose around
the wheel, right?
Howza'bout some closeups of those garage doors, too?
That will give me one more reason to bang my head against the wall.
Okay just so you know I'm paying attention to this. What happened to the Coca Cola sign???
Outside of that your little progress is just unbelievable, and please do a close-up.
Jerry
Thanks! The Coke sign was temporarily attached and I removed it for safe keeping until I finish dropping and knocking this over.
I am still planning a pump, probably between the window and garage doors. The hose is coming, but I need to mount the wall on the foundation first for the same reason as above!
This was the best shot I got...my camera has turned Cubist and keeps doing a Picasso number on my pics, slicing them up and re-arrainging them. I will try to sort that out this weekend.
Chuck, the new protrusion on the left-hand edge of the building is reminsicent of a similar one on the barn diorama. And the lack of depth (so far) on the right-hand side suggests you may be planning to put the store in the background and some kind of surprise, although probably not a Fordson tractor, in the foreground. Want to offer a clue as to your ultimate intent? -- Russ
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This is the basic layout. It will be on the same kind of base as the barn, but set at a slight angle. Other than a gas pump I don't have anything else planned yet. This has been a poorly planned thing so far.
A nice Indian motorcycle ;D ;D ;D ;D
Jacq
An old sofa, ice chest (freezer), and tires.....staples of Southern front yards.
M
Chuck, did i hear gas pump? ;D ;D ;D you got my attention. what kind of pump and what age? visible, clock-face, computer dial ? here's a title of a book on gas pumps....an illustrated guide to Gas Pumps[identification and price guide] buy Jack Sim www.krause.com Craig Mich
Quote from: marc_reusser on September 15, 2009, 02:18:59 PM
An old sofa, ice chest (freezer), and tires.....staples of Southern front yards.
M
Well once you have the sofa, you've got to have an ice chest... saves all that wear and tear on the shoes going in and out of the house for another beer ;). You know though you live in a bad neighborhood when you have to chain the fridge to the front porch so no one will steal it...
I'm with Jacq on this... definitely an old Indian or a knucklehead (that's a vintage Harley, not an aspersion on any forum administrator ;D ;D)
Paul
Hmm, a Motorcycle might just fit...
Thanks for the link, Craig. I haven't decided on the type or era of pump yet. If I get bored, it might just be a rusty pipe sticking out of the island!
I finished the garage doors and mounted them to the wall. They still need a bit of touch ups and some chains and padlocks to keep them closed.
Same window construction using real wood, glass and putty. The decals are from Microscale. The ones on the glass were applied and then lightly wet sanded with 1500 grit sandpaper. The one under the window was doused liberally with Micro-Sol, and then carefully soda blasted at 15 PSI to remove some color and to dull it. The no parking sign was found on Flickr. I straightened it and added some chips and drips in Photoshop. It was printed on Epson presentation paper, and then covered with burnished Scotch magic tape. I cut it out and embossed some nail heads with a homemade punch and die in my drill press. Then some soda blasting to dull the tape and a touch of powders N gwosh.
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Yes Mr. Doan has shown us once again why he is one of the best. Its the details, details, details.
Just excellent. Great on how to do it, now if I could only do it.
Jerry
Chuck,
Could probaly cut and paste a comment I've probably made on your work somewhere previously...I think I've run out of different ways of adding appreciation and praise. Not really much chance of the standard dropping, the workmanship is simply outstanding. Is that an old version of the "Groveland Garage" sign chopped up and mounted behind one of the garage door windows? I like the slipped glass pane as well, something different as opposed to a bit of cracked glass.
Top notch viewing,
Dan
Extremely inspirational, Chuck. Thanks for the update. You are setting an international standard. -- Russ
Thanks Jerry! Get busy!
Thanks Dan. Yes, I found a use for my cast-off signs. I broke a big chunk out of one of the panes while carving the putty.
I also found several photos on Flickr showing old windows with whole panes slipped out and stuck in the frame...seemed like an interesting thing to try. Amazing how far they can go and not break.
Thanks Russ!
Thanks for sharing your work - inspirational and full of ideas i would like to copy one day ................ after I have practiced for a few years!!
You probably know about this but in case not you might be interested in this
http://www.migproductionsforums.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=7506&start=0
Gordon
Thanks Gordon! I had been following that one during construction but I had not seen it finished. Spence is the MAN! Just amazing.
Quote from: Chuck Doan on September 21, 2009, 03:05:36 PM
Thanks Gordon! I had been following that one during construction but I had not seen it finished. Spence is the MAN! Just amazing.
Chuck ,
I saw it yesterday ( because I was at the show ), and it certainly was a fine piece of work . However , it didn't quite have the " used and abused" look that sets your work apart from everyone elses . It was one of the standout dioramas with more imagination used than most on offer . I did take some photos but haven't downloaded them yet so I haven't a clue how well they turned out . I don't expect them to be better than what has been posted .
Nick
Chuck, stunning work as usual can't wait to see all your detail after seeing Spencer's diorama. Pat
Nick, where were the pics of show posted? Thanks Pat
I can't believe you actually glaze your windows in but then when I see what they look like I can't imagine any other way to achieve the look. Great stuff Chuck, hat's off.
Chuck, the doors look great.... ;D cant wait to see the diorama when it's finished Craig Mich
Thanks! Pat, I won't even attempt that level of detail! Spence must have a spare room full of parts.
Heres a couple of window pics from Flickr I used as reference:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/marcygallery/1758840308/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/arielarielariel/1618498502/
Quote from: Belg on September 21, 2009, 04:35:52 PM
Chuck, stunning work as usual can't wait to see all your detail after seeing Spencer's diorama. Pat
Nick, where were the pics of show posted? Thanks Pat
Pat ,
Not sure I know to which pics you are referring . My own photos are still in the camera the others mentioned above are at the MIG Productions Forum .
I'll post any usable photos here when I can ,
Nick
Quote from: Chuck Doan on September 23, 2009, 09:19:04 AM
Heres a couple of window pics from Flickr I used as reference...
Your window is weathered better than theirs.
Quote from: shropshire lad on September 21, 2009, 03:50:35 PM
Quote from: Chuck Doan on September 21, 2009, 03:05:36 PM
Thanks Gordon! I had been following that one during construction but I had not seen it finished. Spence is the MAN! Just amazing.
Chuck ,
I saw it yesterday ( because I was at the show ), and it certainly was a fine piece of work . However , it didn't quite have the " used and abused" look that sets your work apart from everyone elses . It was one of the standout dioramas with more imagination used than most on offer . I did take some photos but haven't downloaded them yet so I haven't a clue how well they turned out . I don't expect them to be better than what has been posted .
Nick
This is the quote that let me to ask about the photos Nick. I saw that Marc has now posted a link to a 17 page photospread. Forgive me for asking but there is one tank that is half in excellent condition and half in derelict condition, I have never seen this before would there be text by the display explaining what the modeler is trying to portray? Sorry to run this into your thread Chuck but don't know to put all the info together elsewhere. Pat
Quote from: Belg on September 23, 2009, 03:49:16 PM
Quote from: shropshire lad on September 21, 2009, 03:50:35 PM
Quote from: Chuck Doan on September 21, 2009, 03:05:36 PM
Thanks Gordon! I had been following that one during construction but I had not seen it finished. Spence is the MAN! Just amazing.
Chuck ,
I saw it yesterday ( because I was at the show ), and it certainly was a fine piece of work . However , it didn't quite have the " used and abused" look that sets your work apart from everyone elses . It was one of the standout dioramas with more imagination used than most on offer . I did take some photos but haven't downloaded them yet so I haven't a clue how well they turned out . I don't expect them to be better than what has been posted .
Nick
This is the quote that let me to ask about the photos Nick. I saw that Marc has now posted a link to a 17 page photospread. Forgive me for asking but there is one tank that is half in excellent condition and half in derelict condition, I have never seen this before would there be text by the display explaining what the modeler is trying to portray? Sorry to run this into your thread Chuck but don't know to put all the info together elsewhere. Pat
Pat ,
To be honest I don't remember seeing the tank you describe as I would have taken some notice of it . I'll keep an eye out for more info .
Any further talk ought be over on Marc's thread and leave Chuck mullion over his windows !
Nick
Pat,
If the tank is on those pages, and If you can, send me a link, or copy paste the image in the euromiltaire thread, and I will see if I can tell you more about it....I think I may know which one you mean...also, a nuber of those models were built by guys that post on MIG, and there is likely an SBS thread of them there.
M
Quote from: shropshire lad on September 23, 2009, 04:11:26 PM
Quote from: Belg on September 23, 2009, 03:49:16 PM
Quote from: shropshire lad on September 21, 2009, 03:50:35 PM
Quote from: Chuck Doan on September 21, 2009, 03:05:36 PM
Thanks Gordon! I had been following that one during construction but I had not seen it finished. Spence is the MAN! Just amazing.
Chuck ,
I saw it yesterday ( because I was at the show ), and it certainly was a fine piece of work . However , it didn't quite have the " used and abused" look that sets your work apart from everyone elses . It was one of the standout dioramas with more imagination used than most on offer . I did take some photos but haven't downloaded them yet so I haven't a clue how well they turned out . I don't expect them to be better than what has been posted .
Nick
This is the quote that let me to ask about the photos Nick. I saw that Marc has now posted a link to a 17 page photospread. Forgive me for asking but there is one tank that is half in excellent condition and half in derelict condition, I have never seen this before would there be text by the display explaining what the modeler is trying to portray? Sorry to run this into your thread Chuck but don't know to put all the info together elsewhere. Pat
Pat ,
To be honest I don't remember seeing the tank you describe as I would have taken some notice of it . I'll keep an eye out for more info .
Any further talk ought be over on Marc's thread and leave Chuck mullion over his windows !
Nick
Yes for some reason Tanks and windows do not go together unless your blowing out the window in a battle scene.
On the other hand Chuck maybe you should give Mother Nature a hand on how to weather windows. Most excellent.
Jerry
Nice one Jerry! Thanks Ken but I ain't gonna claim to have bested Ma Nature.
No problem with some cross talk; I was wondering about that half and half tank too. I'll pop over to the other thread.
I haven't been doing much modeling lately, but I have been doing some more concrete experiments. This is a test for the front step. Not yet concrete ala Reusser, but I have to start somewhere!
Hydrocal
Arizona rock powder (thanks Jerry! (trains1941)
Woodland scenic ballast (fine and medium)
Water, of course
tap tap tap (bubble release)
Soda blast when dry
It cracked coming out of the forms, but no worries. Coloring tests next.
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And of course, thanks to Ken Hamilton for the plaster/ballast idea from his diorama book!
Yup....looks like a poured step to me. And they look better when they break!
Looks great, Chuck
(PS: you're welcome)
That is disgustingly realistic! -- Russ
Chuck, Turned out nice.....curious on how your going to weather the step...... In your mix you mention Arizona rock power?? was this something that jerry got on his own? Craig
Thanks! Jerry was kind enough to send me some when I was last doing some cement work. Here is their website:
http://www.rrscenery.com/
He sent me some of the Ghost city concrete.
Hot damn, nice. Can't wait to see the next step.
(sorry I had to)
Very nice, like the texture of the aggregate/exposed areas. Overall coloring looks good almost as is......maybe just some very light washes and stains in some areas.
The guy from AZ Rock company is very nice. I have had good service from him.
What color/mix did you use? "Riverbottom"?
MR
Amazing how we all like the busted stoop!
If it were done on our house we'd be pissed!
Looks like Chuck has nailed another one.
I have some samples waiting for trials for coloring on the foundations for the Corliss.
I think I'll wait and see what Chuck comes up with!
Some moss/geenery in that crack would be nice too?
-Marty
Quote from: lab-dad on December 12, 2009, 11:28:18 AM
Amazing how we all like the busted stoop!
If it were done on our house we'd be pissed!
...-Marty
That's the magic of miniaturization. The common things that are overlooked in 1/1 world, even things that are ugly, dirty or broken often develop a definite charm and appeal when shrunk down small. The reduction in scale is all the "whimsy" a good model really needs to be interesting.
Dave
After making my first step, I decided to try something a bit bigger. I made a re-useable form from 3 high ¼" square styrene strips made into a rectangular box which was screwed down to a styrene covered Masonite base. The mix was about 2/3 Hydrocal to 1/3 Arizona Rock powders. I found that too much powder resulted in a crumbly casting, while all Hydrocal made one that was too hard to soda blast well. The powders don't do much for coloring since they dry so much lighter. I added Woodland Scenic medium and fine Gray ballast "aggregate" to the wet mix until it looked liked concrete to me.
When the casting hardened, I dismantled the forms and removed it. The first step was chipping and gouging some areas. Then I carefully cracked portions of the casting and glued it back together. I hand scribed some cracks, but the real ones look best. I didn't add any control joints since I found some pics of slabs that didn't seem to have them. I then did some (baking) soda blasting at about 25 PSI. This roughed up the surface, and when concentrated, exposed the ballast.
The coloring so far has been a dilute wash of Polly Scale Concrete with a touch of Dirt. The mix is very thin like a watercolor wash. Several coats were applied with a broad soft brush, with full drying allowed tween coats (a hair dryer can speed thing up a bit.) I am currently trying wet and dry Bragdon powders for more accenting. I am still playing with the whole thing and studying photos for reference. It's funny that Floquil has one "Concrete" color, when the real thing can be so varied. Sort of like when I used to buy Testor's "Flesh" in a one-color- fits-all bottle.
For now everything is just hung together for evaluation. The square pad is for a gas pump, but I will likely make a longer one for two pumps. The new "porch" was unplanned, and it changes the dynamic of the scene. I am still deciding if I like it. But at least I am getting to use some concrete ideas!
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Chuck,
why don't you try tiling or grouting cement ? Mixing it with seeved river sand makes it even better.
In Marty's concrete post I will put up some photo's, together with the additional coloring from oil and grease.
Jacq
I'm pretty happy with the texture/aggregate, but the coloring is still in flux. THe problem for me is that there is such a wide variety of how concrete can look. I have too many example photos I reckon.
Chuck, If your going that high with the cement now?? how are you going to solve the extra height, on the rest of the garage being that high off the ground. The cement looks good... but wont this cause you alot more work down the road or are you just going to SINK most of it in the ground. :) Craig
Ahh the challanges of bad planning! Not sure, probably a sloped entry to the garage and down to the front. We'll see...i will do some mock ups before i make a final decision.
That concrete looks fantatic, Chuck. The aggregate really works out great and the color is superb.
I'm wondering about the height aspect, too. The big slab looks a little thick for the rest of the scene.
I could buy into it as a porch if were about half as thick.
(I still REALLY like that hose-reel wheel on the wall!)
I think the concrete looks excellent and I'm sure you will make it look even better. But, in this case, the tail might be wagging the dog were you to raise the structure off the ground for the sake of the cement. At least as it currently looks, as you describe what you would do, and as I visualize the finished diorama, a ramp to the garage and a big porch could seem contrived.
I'll be very interested to see what you decide and how you proceed.
Russ
I think the "porch" slab looks great, very realistic -- much better than the two smaller slabs, IMHO.
Looks like some regular Doan work...
I quite like the porch variences with the concrete steps and pump footings. As far as the height difference, I don't know if this is a real pain in the a**e to do Chuck, but could you cut down the right hand edge of the garage door architrave, and lower that whole section to floor level? Would have to adjust the edgings at the top accordingly, but might be more logical than ramps into the garage etc...
Just thinking out loud,
(unless you thought that porch now ruins the whole effect, so you might as well scrap the whole idea and just stick it in a box and post it over to Australia...as is)
Dan
Thanks for the nice words! Be careful what you ask for Dan!
Here is a quick mock up of some sloping ground. Might not be too bad. Its only a 15" high porch. The wall attaches to the back with screws so a change of base plans won't affect it. Scrap bases can then be mailed to remote foreign countries. Scenery laundering or something like that. ::)
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And a couple of prototypes I liked:
http://images41.fotki.com/v305/photos/7/777399/2992336/flickerphoto1-vi.jpg
http://images17.fotki.com/v374/photos/7/777399/2992336/flickrphoto2-vi.jpg
That little slope does the trick, Chuck, and adds a ton of subtle visual interest as well.
Those of us who doubted the direction of your step treatment are now officially wearing egg.....(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fbestsmileys.com%2Ffunny%2F2.gif&hash=a60c70e0ee0f6866f1721a24a502f86bfbed88b1)
Truly amazing, as always.
PS: Could the base coincidently be the shape of one of your Dad's cases?
Thanks Ken. Yes another of my Dad's cases. The wall seemed to fit best parallell to the front, which is a bit boring. So I am hoping some contour in the groundwork will liven it up a bit. Probably just a dirt/grass/gravel ground cover, as this is a rural building.
Hmmm, I don't mind the yolk Ken, but I hate trying to get the white part of the egg out of my beard!
Ok Chuck, save yourself the postage costs, that gentle slope works really well. For some reason I was only thinking about the slope up to the garage, not the porch as well. Creates a few more subtle angles again with the triangle along the edges of the concrete slabes. Any discrepencies with slope joins and height variences would easily be disguised with some well placed weeds or abandoned materials (ie junk!). Nice.
Dan
The tail no longer wags the dog. -- Russ
Very nice.
I rarely if ever can find anything to add or suggest, in this case I feel that though the concrete texture is great...The color to me is a bit to beige overall....maybe it's just the lighting....I think it is missing some of the greyish/darker areas...especially in the spalled and heavily pitted areas, where dirt and grime would tend to accumulate (note the two photos you posted).....though on the other hand, you probably already are aware of that and were planning on doing it later on.
How do you plan to treat the space/display case wall, above the facade?
MR
Hi Marc,
Yeah, I'm still working on the colour. Almost ruined it last nite, so there may be a do over in the works (or at least outgoing mail!).
I have no idea what to do above the wall. There isnt much visable when in the case, but I havent figured anything out yet. The gap to the back is about 1/2". Open to ideas.
Any way to trim it to match the roof line and still support the glass cover? -- Russ
That concrete looks fantastic Chuck and an excellent solution to the grade problem... as expected. Is this the one you're planning to park the classic motorcycle in front of? A weathered Indian or Knucklehead would look a treat... ;)
Paul
Thanks Paul! I only have room for a bike, so well see!
Russ yeah I might just fill in the notch in the wall and make it straight across...then put it just to the top of the case so no background is required. just need a few more peeling claboards...that ough to work!
or you could put a sign on the roof above the garage doors that would fill that spot nicely.....and paint that little bit on the other side black??? Craig
Quote from: Roughboy on December 23, 2009, 12:12:37 PM
That concrete looks fantastic Chuck and an excellent solution to the grade problem... as expected. Is this the one you're planning to park the classic motorcycle in front of? A weathered Indian or Knucklehead would look a treat... ;)
Paul
Hey buddy, sign says "no parking" !
But seriously, that's a work of art.
Dave
I agree, the slope looks great.
I'll mock up a sign filler-thanks Craig. Dave you just saved me a bunch of time!
Thanks Ray!
A masterpiece by the "Master"! Just exceptional work once again from you. Always amazing how you come up with the right solution to the problem.
Jerry
I am worried that by adding something at the top to fill the space, will take away from some of the interest, will loose a 'natural' feel, and become more staid...too flat.
If it were at all possble, maybe moving the entire building facade forward a bit and adding a roof that slopes from behind the parapet towards the back wall, might provide some more depth and wisual interest (of course it could also just make a bad negative space that draws attention ::))......you would probably have to finnagle something like a small section of intersecting side wall on the taller portion for the roof to die into, as well.
MR
Yeah, I mocked up a couple of notch filling ideas. Losing the notch is not good when the wall is viewed on its own, but when it is in the case, the notch is a liability because it highlights the exposed back wall of the case. I can't think of any backdrop that would help.
Compromise, always compromise. Oh well, it was badly planned from the start.
Well, I managed to play around with my concrete porch until I ruined it. Then I found an old article I had saved on a country store in Sage Ca. It had a neat fieldstone porch and wall capped by concrete, and I decided to give it a try. So while the rest of you drank yourself silly, I got stoned (sort of).
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Reference photos by Jeff Scott, scanned from the August 1975 Railroad Modeler (defunct).
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The wall in later years:
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Chuck
I like it. Nice stone work. Sometimes getting stoned is half the fun!!!
Like I said. Always amazing how you come up with the right solution to the problem.
Jerry
Chuck, that is a great look and I all so like it, looking forward to your how to.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Chuck, I have to dissagree with the views on the stone and concrete, I think it looks too busy, I much prefered the concrete porch, this is just my two cents worth, if I were you I would do another concrete one. Sometimes to quote a famous architect "less is more"
regards Michael
Woah! Stunning, unexpected, and very different. Flawlessly executed...loooks just like the real thing. Tell us more.
If you are changing your setting/locale to the foothills of the Sierras in CA, I think this is a perfect match......if going for the deep south, I would go with the concrete.
Marc
It's not really a model!. Chuck is pulling our legs. The concrete is full size. He actually builds over scale garage business to try and convice us it...
Wonderful! :D :D :D ;)
Franck
I think it looks great, but of course I've always been a sucker for stone.
Those prototype pics are cool too.
Thanks! My O scale store was a Deep South item. I have always envisioned this in the California foothills, hence the Groveland name (near Sonora). So rocks or concrete will work. Rocks suggest a more rural theme to me, so I might go that way. The busyness will calm down I think when it gets bedded into the dirt, and the step and pumps go in.
Ray, I have always dug that store. If you look for Sage Ca on Google earth (or maps?) you will find a couple of more contemporary pics. I have found though that the store is now gone.
I am doing the front step and will document the process. when i did this I didnt know if it would come out, so I didnt bother with photos.
Heres one more scanned shot:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/4245002632_c8b6cb6984_b.jpg
Wow Chuck! Your stone and concrete work is unbeleivable!
David
You've done it again Chuck... looks fantastic. Marc is right, it does have something of a Sierra feel to it now, amazing how much the character changes with addition of the stone work. Really looking forward to seeing how you did this...
Paul
This morning, when I looked at your latest attempt, my impression was that it would sit perfectly in the landscape if it had some tufts of typical northern California green grass growing at the base. Then you post the flickr photo showing even more grass than I had imagined. So I think some green vegetation will be key to making the stonework and cement look at home.
In all the models you have built so far, foliage has been scant and, generally, dried out. So I am looking forward to seeing how you approach greenery in a less arrid climate. Go for it! I want to see how you make Woodland Scenics pale by comparison.
Russ
Chuck ,
A packet of pigmy grass seed is in the post , because , for you , nothing but the real thing will do . Forget your bits of string and macrame for phoney grass , only grass looks like grass .
Nick
Chuck,
As I need to be doing a window in a bit, I was wondering how are you going about making the dirty glass panes???
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MR
Thanks David and Paul!
Nick, is that like Chia Pet grass?
Russ, my high school art teacher said I was afraid of color. I thought this wall would dispel that notion and now you want green grass? I will have to do some learning on what all works. I need to review Nicks latest pics or just send this over there for some landscaping.
Marc, I started with Dullcoat on the back and then Alcohol vapors to fog (isoprpyl, not Guiness). Then I removed most of that mess except around the edges with a cosmetic sponge and a toothpick. Then Bragdon powders, browns and tan, dufted on with a soft brush tip and then breathe on it like warming your hands. Worked back and forth until happy. The trick is not to muss it in subsequent handling.
(Hey, Marc.....Sounds easy on paper, doesn't it?)
Love those little green paint drips on the glass.
Just so this doesn't sound like your typical "atta boy" response Chuck, I'll say that your stone and concrete work is entirely acceptable.
(I'm actually floored by it, great work)
Chuck,
where'd you get the stones?
Just fragments off the larger ones?
-Marty
But it IS easy, Ken! Thanks Chester!
Marty, I have been using some rock material I have had for years. As you say, I break them up for different sizes. Neat stuff, I wish I documented where I got it.
I was thinking may be some stuff for the fish tanks?
I think the real thing busted up would be best, will look around.
-Marty
Any university chemistry department or any local artisan that blows glass, here in little 'Ol Boise there is a store that sells glass supplies and teaches classes, I am sure you have one somewhere close to you.
Just a thought
Gil
in exile in the home of the national co-champion undefeated Boise State Broncos ;D
For what it's worth, a method for concrete frosted rocks:
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First I glued rock fragments to a piece of wood using carpenters yellow glue.
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Then I slathered some Hydrocal around the top to create an even edge. I added grout between the rocks using wallboard joint compound mixed with Arizona powders applied heavy with a brush. I wiped the rock faces with a damp sponge. I then added spacers to the piece of wood...
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Which, when inverted, serve to space the rocks above the top of the cement slab. My tooling is usually quick and dirty due to my impatience.
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This is the form for the Hydrocal. I made two sides removable for easy mold release. This was originally the form I used to do the large porch slab.
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And these are the rocks sitting in the wet Hydrocal mix. I used approx. 2/3 hydrocal and 1/3 Arizona powders and a bunch of Woodland Scenic fine grey ballast.
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This is what it looks like removed from the forms after an hour or so. There was a small leak in one side of the form that caused the exposed aggregate, but since I was trying for crumble-create, this was acceptable.
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And after drying and some chipping and soda blasting.
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And then after coloring. For the concrete I used grey Bragdon Powders applied heavy and wet with a sponge. Then I slowly took it back with a clean damp sponge. For the rock grout I applied some heavy dry Bragdon powders (grey and brown) across everything and then carefully wiped off the excess with a damp sponge. Everything is just temporarily set in place. All pieces will receive some final touch up after they are attached to the base.
Chuck, Thanks for the ..How to... on doing the porch. Turned out great ;D Craig
Thanks for this really useful SBS - I have always struggled with concrete both the look and the colour, hopefully if I follow your instructions & practice I may get some better results.
As always will look forward to your next posts Chuck.
The project turned out beautifully. Now I have a question about where the structure meets the steps:
First, would there be gaps, as in the photo, or would a carpenter have nailed a kickboard or done some other kind of work along the bottom edge of the siding?
Second, on a structure where they may not have hosed off the porch very often (if ever), do you still need to adjust the coloration of the boards meeting the cement to reflect the effects of puddling or absorbed moisture?
Two or three years ago I might never have thought of such questions but, after studying your other models and the comments of our more observant participants, I'm beginning to notice such details. So how about it, Boy Wonder? How do you plan to handle those issues?
Russ
I have seen many examples where the siding comes right down to the cement, Batman, so that is what I am going to do. (Holy Clapboards!) You are correct, I will be adding new, more surface weathered pieces there, since the original plan had them up above the grade, and there also won't be the same gaps. Unless I decide to something completely different.
Thanks Craig and Gordon! If the coloring came out, it was luck. Concrete color is hard to do!
JUST SPLENDID CHUCK!
Russ:Quote from: finescalerr on January 11, 2010, 12:07:59 PM
.....on a structure where they may not have hosed off the porch very often (if ever), do you still need to adjust the coloration of the boards meeting the cement to reflect the effects of puddling or absorbed moisture?
Yes, as the heating (from the daytime sun) and cooling (the cool and moist night air) and moisture absorption and retention differences between the concrete and wood at this point tends to cause a harsher environmental condition for the wood.
Quote from: finescalerr on January 11, 2010, 12:07:59 PM
First, would there be gaps, as in the photo, or would a carpenter have nailed a kickboard or done some other kind of work along the bottom edge of the siding?
This would all depend on the builder/carpenter at the time. Unlike today, and esp. on these types of rural structures, there were no applicable building codes and requirements. It is possible that the builder at best would have had some forethought and put some tin/galv or building paper for flashing between the wood framing behind the siding and concrete....but again, this was up to the builder and most often unlikely in these types of structures. It would also depend heavily on how the foundations and slabs were configured and in what sequence they were erected. Also coming into play is whether the porch as shown would have been original to the building, or a later addition (or was the porch and foundation re-used from an earlier maybe burnt down building..or a building with a different function)...and then again what the builders whims and knowledge were at the time. Though there were construction standards/rules of thumb....on much of this type of rural period architecture, most everything was "purpose built"...it needed to perform the required task in the most expedient, efficient, and cost conscious manner.....and it is often difficult to determine the actual sequencing and assembly method from the photos without a forensic field investigation.
MR
Thanks Marc!
I got some Silfor delivered today for some green grass trials. Of course I remembered after placing the order that we are in a drought and dead grass would be more politically correct.
Dead grass would only be politically correct if your model is supposed to be in Southern California, Boy Wonder. Since you said it's from farther north, you are not only politically but environmentally correct to use green grass. (I think your mask is too tight and has cut off blood circulation to your brain.) -- Batman
No, it's those damn green tights!
I did notice that the Buffalo grass is way less shiny than the Silflor grass mats I had before. With those I used Dullcoat spray to take back the shine, but this new stuff is quite nice out of the box.
Looks great, and thanks for the SBS.
FWIW I have used Vallejo (tans & earth) to "dry out" the ends of the grasses before & after planting.
-Marty
Nice! I think you've really nailed the color and texture of old concrete.
Chuck
Beautiful! The best colored concrete I'v ever seen.
Jerry
Chuck, Here's one for your garage ;) A-lot of garages-service stations used them in there business. Hey Paul, does this make you happy?? Craig
Yes... absolutely, it would be perfect... :) :) :)
That's beautiful Craig... what's the story on it?
Paul
Paul, We both have been trying to get Chuck to put in a motorcycle in his garage scene....thought i would throw something cool Chucks way... give Chuck something to think about ;) The Diecast model i bought years ago at a Harley dealers sale table...just for i would have one to model off from just in case i ever wanted to try to scratch build one for my old gas station build ::) The diecast model in the picture is a 50's harley Servi-Car.. Harley called theres Servi-car....while Indian Motorcycle Co. called theres the Dispatch-tow. Both had Bars on the front of the cycles so you could hook to the back bumper of a car. So if a customer wanted his car serviced....ride servi-car to customer's house to pick-up car...hook servi-car car to back bumper...drive car back to station un-hook...do service on car...after service drive car back to customers house with servi-car in tow...deliver car...drive servi-car back to gas station..or..garage. And the police used the servi-car big time to!!! They were mini billboards when they drove around town....haveing the owner's name on them I think there COOL... Craig
That is cool! Something like that might just fit, no room for a car. Total violation of the no parking rule though.
Craig:
I was curious about the origin of the model, wasn't sure if it was a diecast or just what. I haven't seen a diecast before of the Servi-Car. I suspect it's probably just about as rare as the prototype is now. I did see a partially restored Indian version though, about ten years ago in Hollister... even incomplete it was gorgeous.
Chuck... you could always change the No Parking sign to a Harley Parking Only sign.... ;) ;)
Paul
Paul, Yes it is a diecast model. Looked at bottom of diecast says 1949 servi-car as year.... made in china....and was made for harley davidson....dont have the box anymore... made in 2002. theres a guy in local flea-market that has one in the box wants 50 bucks ??? Im going to call a friend of mine that has a-lot of old cycles and orig paper and see if he has some old lit. on servi-cars i can copy? I did See a Indian years ago restored at a antique motorcycle meet in Ohio. Craig
Craig:
I'm thinking it might be an Ertl... they've made several series of die-cast Harleys over the years. Franklin Mint has also produced a Servi-Car model, but it sells for $195.00 or thereabouts.
I've done some quick research in my HD library and I believe the Servi-Car was introduced in 1932. They had several models 32G (small box with tow bar), 32GA (small box without tow bar), 32GD (large box without tow bar), and 32GE (large box with air tank). In 1933 they introduced the 33GDT (large box with tow bar). All had a 45" V-Twin flathead engine. It appears they continued in production in various forms until 1969 when Harley was purchased by AMF although I have seen some undocumented references to some 1970s era versions. In 1932, according to the records, they produced 41 Servi-Cars... helps to explain why they're so scarce. The picture below is of a 1933 version with tow bar. This is back when service station attendants wore ties and knew how to wear their hats the right way round... ;)
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And here's a pic of a fully and beautifully restored 1949 Servi-Car. No tow bar on this one and what would appear to be a smaller box, with just enough room to carry your beer... ;) Needless to say, I'd love to have one of these to tool around in... ;D
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Paul
Here's one a little less traveled
Gil
Those are some nice pics! It would be neat to have, except when does one stop looking like a service guy and start looking like an ice cream vendor or a meter maid? Pretty similer hats.
It's the badge, they wear "Badges"...................
Ice-cream vendors don't need no "stinking badges" ;D
Gil
I vividly remember the sight of my fathers cars coming up the driveway after being serviced, with a Servi-car behind. The dealer was Faulkner Olds in the suburban Philadelphia area.
Here's another nifty old Harley trike. The driver's appearance dates this photo almost as much as the trike.
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You guys are all leading too fanciful of a life seen through rose colored glasses...c'mon...this is in the foothills outside of Stockton and Sacramento.....thats Hells Angels home turf (at least it was in the 70's)....what you need is a nice Harley panhead chopper, and a guy drinking some JD while peeing on the corner of the building. Or for a real challenge....do 10 different choppers all lined up out front (and maybe a scared store clerk peeking out the window). ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Marc
(ex N-Cal)
Those are RED coloured glasses Marc...
Paul
Quote from: Roughboy on January 18, 2010, 06:20:25 PM
Those are RED coloured glasses Marc...
Paul
yeah, right .....you, Janice and Tim Leary ;D ;D
MR
Oh, man, Chuck, you sure know how to ignite the inspiration! Wow.
Thanks Virgil!
I got a chance to get plastered this weekend. First, the various foundation elements were arraigned, spaced off on stripwood shims, and glued in place. Then I slabbed on successive layers of Hydrocal to fill in the contours for the scenery. When dry, I sanded the Hydrocal smoothish, and then painted it with Polly Scale Dirt. Then came fine sifted dirt applied over thinned white glue, and then I added some Silflor Buffalo grass and some jute Macramé. I hit the Silflor with Dullcote spray while it was still on the mat. In spite of being less sparkly then the previous grass mat I had, it still had some sheen. It does peel off nicely, and the adhesive remnant makes it easy to glue down.
I have begun adding additional texture items and some gravel as an experiment. I'm still playing around with it; I just hope it's enough green grass to satisfy Uncle!
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Hopefully a weathered old gas pump will sit on this pad someday. I will also add a tank filler pipe in the weeds to the left. Since taking this pic I have touched up the front edge of the pad now that the messy bits are done.
Looks real to me!! :o
Not to be critical but shouldn't the area in front of the step be matted down/dirty from traffic?
Or is it abandoned?
-Marty
Its abandoned.
This just gets better and better, if that's possible.
The groundcover is perfect, Chuck. It really accents the
poured-concrete-over-stone deck. Outstanding...........
Chuck
Perfect. Just goes so well with the concrete and stonework. Just the right touch of green Russ should even be pleased with this. If not we have a corner still open!!!
Jerry
Okay, okay. I'm satisfied with the model's appearance. In fact, it is superb. But one thing still bothers me. You wrote, "...various foundation elements were arraigned". In what courthouse?
Chuck (and everyone else), it should be more than obvious by now that I am well beyond help. -- Russ
Thanks for the nice words all!
Russ, it wasn't me it was Billy Gates spellcheck. Yeah, that's it.
Quote from: finescalerr on February 08, 2010, 12:27:45 PM
Chuck (and everyone else), it should be more than obvious by now that I am well beyond help. -- Russ
Admitting it Russ is the first step to recovery... ;)
Paul
Very nice, the grass looks great!
Quote from: finescalerr on February 08, 2010, 12:27:45 PM
....it should be more than obvious by now that I am well beyond help. -- Russ
And this is a man capable of influencing thousands of impressionable minds through this publications?
Oh, the Humanity...........
Nah, it's only the music keeping you just barely on this side of SANE! ;D
Looking great Chuck... the grass with the concrete and stones is very convincing. It's a minor point, but the light gravel on the path way looks somehow out of place. I would expect it to be more packed down... just a thought.
Paul
Chuck...I hate to say this, because I probably couldn't do better,.....though beautifully installed and represented, the grass color really bugs me......it just doesn't say California foothills to me.....I would have preferred more yellow....and if you wanted green, maybe a dendelion or some such weed here and there in a nook/corner.
I agree with Paul on the current state of the gravel....probably because it's just so bright& contrasty......but I am assuming that part is not done yet
Marc
Thanks for the comments. The gravel was a first coat and now there is a more smooshed layer with larger chunks and other debris. I have never tried gravel covering before so it will be interesting to see how it comes out. Fortunately there are 23,000 or so gravel road pics to peruse on Flicker! And I have a large putty knife at the ready to scrape it clean! :o
The grass is late summer. They don't really have a yellow in this series; the next color is more darkish brown. I will be adding more Macramé grass, so we'll see how that comes out. This green stuff is all new to me too as is the Silflor. I only got one color so it may be a bit monotone, but I didn't have enough stimulus money to send to Scenic Express for more. I am planning an additional shrubbery (nee!), and that may help.
Ultimately, the (maybe)credit/(likely)BLAME will go to Mon Uncle, for his suggestion! This is why I'm afraid of color! ;D
Is this coming close ? http://www.realityinscale.com/epages/61537336.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/61537336/Products/GL012
or this one http://www.realityinscale.com/epages/61537336.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/61537336/Products/GL018
This is wel made and easy to use.
Jacq
Thanks Jacq! I actually don't hate the green grass yet. I just may have to move the location if it ain't Cailforny enough!
Chuck, by the time you add your usual tidbits and touches, I doubt anyone will be able to nitpick the vegetation to any great extent. And if they do castigate you on coloration or texture, then it will help you develop as keen an eye for scenery as you have for everything else. Knowing you, if you think they are correct, you'll rip everything out and start again!
By the way, the grass color looks, to me, more like late spring than late summer. So those who would criticize it can put THAT in their pipes and smoke it! (Uh-oh. I hope they don't get high from smoking scale grass or the Drug Enforcement Agency may raid this forum!)
Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on February 11, 2010, 12:48:59 PM
Chuck, by the time you add your usual tidbits and touches, I doubt anyone will be able to nitpick the vegetation to any great extent. ......
Russ
For shame....after all these years, and you still don't know me at all! (and this revalation so close to Valentines day SOB, SNIFF :'( :'()
MR
Quote from: Chuck Doan on February 11, 2010, 07:19:48 AM
I am planning an additional shrubbery (nee!), and that may help.
Well just so long as it's nice.... ;)
Paul
Quote from: finescalerr on February 11, 2010, 12:48:59 PM
I doubt anyone will be able to nitpick the vegetation to any great extent.
Russ
You're just jealous because we're not picking your nits... but with all those thong bikini clad young things in your office, I would think they'd be able to handle that for you... ;)
Paul -- on the way to the corner--
Okay, okay. Paul and Marc, no hard feelings. Will you be my Valentines? -- Russ (already thinking he may have made a grave error here)
Quote from: finescalerr on February 12, 2010, 01:26:24 AM
Okay, okay. Paul and Marc......Will you be my Valentines?
Oh, sure. Play favorites.
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Okay, I'm a whore. Anybody can be my Valentine. Satisfied? -- ssuR
Quote from: finescalerr on February 12, 2010, 01:26:24 AM
Okay, okay. Paul and Marc, no hard feelings. Will you be my Valentines? -- Russ (already thinking he may have made a grave error here)
Always and forever... ;D Afterall, you're the bloke with the office-full of thong-clad cuties ;)
Paul
Slowly adding to the groundwerks. I have added grass clumpage to the left side and more layers to the dirt/gravel (dirtvel?) Still have lots more macramé twine grass to blend in amongst the green. Prior to the groundwork I cut the wall in half and kicked it back for interest, sort of like the Sage store posted earlier. This also allows a slight angle mounting in the case. I have yet to heal the siding from this trauma. The color on the front edge is just primer and will be re-painted a hopefully better color (I believe "Hopefully Better" is an actual Sherwin-Williams color). It's looking more like Hwy 395 than Hwy 49 to me at his stage.
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That'll do for now. I agree that the grass clumps look a little "stuck on" at the moment but you will fix that in short order. I like the garage setback. Clever and subtle and it works. The "dirtvel" already looks much better (as I knew it would).
As much as I love vegetation (as is evident from the vegetative state of my own mind) I wonder whether there is actually too much dense grass, especially right in the front, across from the tire rut in front of the gas pump. Also by the left hand garage door. It would seem the tire track areas should be wider. If the structure supposedly recently was in use, then you probably need to consider that stuff.
On the other hand, if it has been abandoned for a year or more, then you probably need some small, thin weeds starting to grow where the tires used to roll. I doubt I could model either effect convincingly myself but you probably could. And how about those ubiquitous little yellow flowers we seem to find all over throughout the year? Or dandilions? And puncture weeds?
When a model gets to the stage where it's an almost perfect replica of reality, it becomes easier for a club fisted, crosseyed dunderhead like I to notice such things.
Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on February 15, 2010, 12:26:10 PM
When a model gets to the stage where it's an almost perfect replica of reality, it becomes easier for a club fisted, crosseyed dunderhead like I to notice such things.
Russ
Oh , Mr. Russell , you flatter yourself !
Nick
( And no , I'm not going into the corner because there is a great big spider already there )
Maybe you think I didn't see that, Nick. But I did! To the corner with ye, spiders notwithstanding!! -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on February 15, 2010, 12:50:37 PM
Maybe you think I didn't see that, Nick. But I did! To the corner with ye, spiders notwithstanding!! -- Russ
You're a cruel and hard man .
Chuck
I like the change to the lines on the front walls. Moving the garage back that fraction creates a nice little collection corner. I particularly like the shadow it has now created...makes you sort of peer into it to see what might be there.
Cheers,
Dan
Getting there!
That new corner is perffect for a discarded "thingy" may be an old tailpipe, motorcycle handlebar, gas can or barrel.
-Marty
Chuck,
this really is out-standing work, and I am amazed when looking back through the thread how much the character of the piece has changed by moving the garage wall back that fraction back. I hesitate to use the word better because because of what that then implies, but certainly the composition and the new possibilities it creates gives the whole piece a great new twist.
Could you just share the secret of how you keep your concentration and quality of work over, to me, a long time in the gradual evolution of these pieces?
I really like the result of your decision to set the garage back a bit. It really enhances the composition and feel of the scene.
Marc
Thanks! Gordon I have no secret, just a shallow mental In basket! Its easier to keep track of one project at a time. This one has suffered from bad planning and that has added some rework time, but it seems to be working out finally.
amazingly inspiring work Chuck!
all there butt the cigarette butts
8)
Philip
Quote from: Chuck Doan on February 16, 2010, 07:24:13 AM
...but it seems to be working out finally.
You master of understatement you...
It's amazing how much more dynamic the front has become with the new setback, small as it is. Also, I'm pleased to see the change in the gravel and ground cover... much more convincing. Looking super Chuck...
Paul
Looks fantastic! I keep expecting to see a lizard sunning himself on the porch!
Looks even better with the setback. Most people would love to have that stuck on grass clump look you have created. Hopefully if I ever get to that stage mine will look that good.
Jerry
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on February 16, 2010, 09:02:29 PM
Looks fantastic! I keep expecting to see a lizard sunning himself on the porch!
Chuck,
If you want a lizard, I have one from a 1/35 figure set that I can send you....let me know.
Marc
A quick lathe exercise; a fill pipe for the gas tank. I found several pics of older stations with this pipe next to the pump.
Made from styrene, turned the top part and glued it to 1/8" Plastruct rod. Glued the hinge and hasp and sanded them to shape when dry.
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Thanks Marc, I might be making a pile of boards that could be a perfect lizard perch. I have a Backshop lizard that would more like an iguana in this scale.
Whoa...that looks absolutely like the real thing.
What did you use for the galv. color....it's spot-on.
I'll put the lizzard in the mail.
Marc
Thanks!
I sprayed it with Testors Flat Black from the can. Then thinned Polly Scale L and N Grey which let a bit of the black come thru. Then Gwosh rusty color sponged on and Dullcoat sealed.
Then dufted on Bragdon white and grey powders, blew off a bit and then Dullcoat spritz from a distance for some mottling.
The slight texture from the spray can helped too.
Most old ones I found had a rusty head but not the fill pipe...don't know why.
I clicked to open the "new messages" on this thread, and then turned away from the computer for a minute to work on one of my own models. Turned around and thought, "Cool prototype pic of an old fill pipe." Then I read the text and realized I'd been fooled! Nicely done, Chuck! It actually makes the surroundings look more real as well.
Satisfactory. -- Russ
Chuck,
Inspirational standards as usual. Like Marc pointed out, thats a great rendition of the galv colouring and texturing. The great "natural lighting" also compliments the modelling work...hard to beat sunlight for great shadows and light intensity to give a true impression of the colours. As the environment starts to build up around the garage, its all starting to come together as another superb example of real life modelling.
Cheers,
Dan
Well that beats all!! I thought I was standing outside for a minute then realized I'm in NJ an it's raining here.
No words just drooling over your work, just when I think your at the top of your game you surprise everyone once again.
Jerry
Our company pulls underground storage tanks every day and, for what it's worth,
I can vouch for the fact that Chuck's fill pipe is so real it's frightening.
Chuck:......"Most old ones I found had a rusty head but not the fill pipe...don't know why..."
(The pipe is galvanized - the cap isn't)
Presume its different in the states, but here the pipes were galvanised and the "cap" was threaded on and was brass...... something to do with reducing the chance of sparks ;)
needs a padlock ;D
Perfect color! thanks for the recipe!
-Mj
Ken,
I thought ...."the vandals took the handle" and not the padlock. (that's why "the pump don't work"). ;) ;D ;D ;D
MR
....wants eleven dollar bills - you only got TEN....
Thanks all! Ken, thanks for the informed info. Gordon, that makes sense since the hose nozzles were non-ferrous, but most of the pics show really rusty covers. Guess they closed 'em reaaly carefuly!
I might do a padlock Marty, but I have to do one or two for the garage doors and I might make an extra if I don't get tired of making them.
Dan, one advantage of my locale is pretty abundant lighting! I notice the Euro military guys almost never shoot outdoors-guess I take the sunshine for granted!
Heres a tall fill pipe:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/windsurfgirl/221961130/
Neat pic. Interesting detail of the marks of the old circular gas pump and bolts under the "new" pump.
Marc
At the risk of overdoing a technique, I re-did some of the flashing/patches using the hairspray crackle method over .005 styrene material:
Testors Flat Black base coat-dry 20 min.
Fairly heavy aerosol Treseme hairspray-dry 10 min.
Light seal coat of Flat Black spray-dry 10 min.
Water-thinned, brushed on coats of Polly Scale colors that match the wall. Wait till just dry. (airbrushing should work too, perhaps even better)
Hit with hair dryer on hot, crackles appear.
Start removing paint at bottom edge with small water wet stiff paintbrush.
Fade with white gwosh applied with a sponge, seal with Dullcoat.
Add rust gwosh, Bragdon powders to chipped areas using sharp brush, sponge and stump- seal with Dullcoat.
Apply thinned gwosh along crackles with brush, then blend with a sharp wet toothpick.
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Very nice! You keep finding ways to improve upon perfection!
Hi Chuck,
fantastic work as ever- really love the crackled finish you got on that flashing. Attached a picture of the hoppers on my house which currently display exactly the same weathering pattern- great to see this kind of finish on a model but the reality not so much fun- can feel some serious shot blasting coming on!
Thanks also for the info on how you accomplished your crackle and the galv filler pipe.
James
Chuck, I've been experimenting with all sort of things trying to get a scale crackle effect,
but nothing has worked so far. This is FANTASTIC! Thanks for not keeping it to yourself.......
PS: You did say at one point that you just use rattle-cans, right? (IE: No airbrushing)
Wow!!! I'm really blown away by the small scale crackling!
Thanks! James, that is a great downspout! Ken, yes, I only used spray cans for the under and seal coats. I think airbrushing would work for the acyrlic coat too instead of brushing, I don't think it would effect the result.
I'm going to practice on some styrene tubing to simulate the gas pump body to see if it will work for that.
Adequate. -- Russ
Chuck
Just when you think you've seen it all you have to go one step more.
But then that's what we all have come to expect from you.
Or in the words of Unc...Adequate to say the least.
Jerry
WOW... that is great Chuck, absolutely convincing. I'm going to have to give this one a try.
Paul
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Looks like the grille and bumper of something is hiding just behind the doors. Maybe a great barn find in waiting.
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I finally got the doors locked. Hasp and padlock made from styrene with brass wire bits. Chain is 40 links per inch from Builders in Scale.
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As I am just about to permanently fasten the wall, I thought I'd take a shot of the backside for posterity. Nothing like bad planning and impatience!
Really cool!
I think that last shot should be on the cover of the annual next year!
Love the bumper & grill behind door number one!
-Marty
AWESOME!!!!
Hell I thought you were going to say that you had built an old truck to put in there.
I'm not sure which one but one of them should be on the cover of the "ANNUAL" next year.
Jerry
Chuck,
my compliments, super.
QuoteI finally got the doors locked
A hell of a job, getting the chain ends together ;D ;D not something to be done every day.
Jacq
Beautiful! The slight glimpse of grill and bumper is a nice touch.
I am delighted to see that I'm not the only one who puts together models with thumb tacks and chewing gum. The shot of the back side look like the back of my own models (all the result of ad hoc construction and bad planning). The front side, by contrast, further erodes my self confidence yet is most satisfactory. Young Charles, this could be your best diorama to date. -- Russ
Chuck,
I can't really add anything more to what has already been said.
Besides the only thing that comes to mind is just, WOW!
Thank you for sharing this project.
Rick
Chuck, both sides are awesome, for very different reasons... One could believe you've shot a cinema studio.
What, no duct tape?
Bravo, I love that behind the scenes look!
Really gives traction to the phrase "cobbled together".... ;) ;D ;D ;D
Marc
Love the bumper and grill peaking through the doors Chuck. Seems to me I remember a suggestion to that effect somewhere earlier in this thread ;)
Backside shot is interesting, though I'm a little concerned about the bar codes. Have you been pulling our legs all along and actually bought this over at Wally World???
Excellent job...
Paul
QuoteBackside shot is interesting, though I'm a little concerned about the bar codes. Have you been pulling our legs all along and actually bought this over at Wally World???
It looks like he found them in the bargain section where they get rid of the worn and handled promotion products. :o :o
Chuck,
this was a very nice enjoyable journey and in the end you showed us all you are a mortal......... thanks.
Jacq
Chuck,
Just thinking that if the back of the timbers was stained and dusted, it would probably just look like a real life 1:1 backyard repair job...bit of this, bit of that...there, fixed.
Certainly a nice novel view of your work that no one would normally consider...fully detailed interior???? ;D
Cheers,
Dan
Thanks All! Yes, Paul I always forget to remove the price tags! It's that dang Midwest wood-they ruin a bit of one end with barcodes. At least larger pieces have a stickum label. I must have sublimized a suggestion for the grill, except it should have been a motorcycle in there! BTW, I read on a model car forum to use Dullcoat to dull (duh) car chrome-works good!
Chester, I noticed a piece of scotch tape and even a hair back there (ick). No duck tape though.
Frederic, it's all smoke and mirrors, though I hope real stage carpenters do a better job than this!
Actually Dan, I have thought of 2 more displays for this-a back wall with an old car or something and an interior section maybe showing what the grille is attached to. Maybe if I get reincarnated as something with modeling skills and digits.
Quote from: The modeling BuddhaMaybe if I get reincarnated as something with modeling skills and digits.
The joke of the year!
amazing work Chuck!
Thanks Philip!
Here's a quickie...a remnant of old air hose on the reel wheel. Made from solder. Painted with Polly Scale Zinc Chromate primer and weathered with gouache and pigment powders.
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Details, details. -- Russ
Chuck, Air hose looks like the real thing its got that faded out rubber look thats been out in the weather and sun.... How are you attaching the air hose for air... is there a pipe going through the wall or behind the Rim, that we cant see in the picture. ;) and the pipe with the handle on it is for water?? Looking Good Craig
Chuck,
Very nice hose, great colours with the sun bleached red rubber. Something I also don't think I had noticed before were the split weatherboards butting up to the window frame. Very nice touch with the nails that have cracked the bottom edge of those boards. I know I've said it before, but shots like this highlight so well how natural sunlight, and the shadows it creates, can add so much more to the models photographic presentation.
Cheers,
Dan
I don't often visit this forum, cause of time, but I just spent the last 3 hours reading and saving info from this thread. Amazing work.
Thanks Mario! Thanks, Craig, I was planning that valve to be the old air connection. The hose is just an old piece with the fittings cut off. That's the nice thing about modelling an abandoned something-if you don't feel like making it, then it must have been removed/stolen/lost. I wanted a more knobally valve handle, but I haven't found one in this scale yet.
Thanks Dan, I am lucky to have a lot of sun available. Even if it is 24 times too big!
"knobally" ? Can't find that word in my Concise Oxford Dictionary . It must be an oversight on their part . I'll get onto them first thing in the morning to have it included in the next edition .
Nick
Please do, I have been waiting a long time. Can't imagine what else they have to do over there.
Chuck, is it okay to move this thread & your tractor/barn thread into the Diorama's section?
MR
Sure, no problem.
I haven't had much modeling time, so I decided to have someone else do it for me. Here are some detail parts I had made at Print a Part. I created the 3D solid models in Solidworks, and sent an STL file to P-A-P. There is a 16" light shade, two 7" angled sign light shades and two weatherheads for an electrical service mast. I just got them in and started some sanding tests. The material sands easily. The layer lines remove quickly, but due to the translucency, it is hard to see when they are smooth. This looks like an ideal application for Mr. Surfacer. I'll need to get a hold of some.
These took about two hours to research and create. I sent the file in on Wed. and got the parts the next Monday using the least expensive path (overnite service can be had for a price) I plan to try some other items. I should also be able to combine more things onto a common sprue for better value. I think they will work out well and give me some unique purchased detail parts for my dio. I'll give an update when I get further along.
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Shade
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Weatherhead
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Sign lights
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Okay I'll be a cad and ask; "How much were they?"
They look pretty good! and the service sounds great!
Are you planning on illuminating the lights?
-Marty
HOLY CRAP, Chuck. What 's the 4-1-1 on this stuff???
What?
Where?
How?
That's just amazing.
(....and, as Marty so boldly asked......."How Much"????)
What you see cost 21 bucks plus shipping in addition to my 2 hours. Fortunately I don't have to amortize the cost of the program or the computer!
I should be able to combine more parts in one file to keep the costs down. I certainly couldn't fabricate these for 20 bucks worth of my time.
Marty, I am not planning to light these, but I suspect it would work well if the paint kept the light from coming thru. They say to clean these with Acetone or Lacquer thinner, so the material is not like normal plastic. I primed the shade with enamel paint and it stuck great.
The Print a Part site is easy to use and the service was great. You can track the progress of the order and see when it shipped. You can upload a file to get pricing before you order. So far I am pleased with my first attempt.
Could be exciting!
Great job on the parts Chuck. I guess if you wanted to you can make just about any detail part you want?
Jerry
Wow! This is nothing short of amazing! Now if I just had the $2,500+ for Solidworks!
Chuck, I haven't waded in yet with all of the typical congratulatory BS because, frankly, I think you're more than a little nuts and I'm afraid that you'd track me down like a wounded rhino. BUT, you are among the guys who are giving me inspiration/confidence to take my modelling efforts to a new level AND the information on how you do what you do. Thanks for that!
Chuck, Thats some neat Shit!!!! I take it you have to know how to Run this type of program or have the big bucks to buy it. ?? Sounds like the average modeler like myself wouldnt have a chance to use this ??? I sure could think of a few things i would like to have made ;) Craig
This is exactly the kind of excitement that technology can bring to modeling and now some of you can see why I am so much in favor of using computers to enhance what we do. Is Chuck the first of us to go that route? Has anyone else here used rapid prototyping? I sent CAD files to Crystal River Products to laser cut doors, windows, and a component for Marty's Plymouth gas mechanical. Some of you have your own lasers and maybe other gadgets. What have you done with them? Let's start a new thread.
Way to go, Chuck!
Russ
Thanks! I have mentioned this before, but I am very fortunate to have access to the program and the computer thru my boss, who is perfectly fine with me doing personal stuff in the off hours. Otherwise I could not afford it either. Now I just need to convince him to buy a 3D printer!
WOW! Stunning...opens up a whole new world. Thanks for looking into and trying this. I will definitely have to give it a try.
Did you draw the items 1:1 and then have them scale the .STL/print-out, or did you draw it to 1/24 scale?
BTW. For those that are basic CAD savvy,...you do not necessarily need Solid Works......you can use Google "Sketch-up" (there is a downloadable free version that lacks some of the bells and whistles of the pay for "Pro" version").......and can the use an .STL conversion program to check your drawing for errors/holes and convert it to the required .STL file for 3D printing.
Marc
Russ,
Dan Rowe, over on the 7/8ths.info Forum is using CAD drawings to make 3D printed parts (in metal!) for a Mapleton Shay model he is developing. An example... http://www.7-8ths.info/index.php?topic=16680838.0
Follow that thread around for more details of the process.
Carlo
I made the items at 1/24th size. I started with O scale models I had made before, but I changed the dimensions rather than applying a "scale". I didn't know how a scaled part might work.
If something from Sketchup can work, that would bring this into a more cost practical realm, which would be awesome! If you are making basic part models only, SW is way overkill. And I might not have access to it forever!
Wow, those are great parts. It all comes into play, so it's worth the price.
Quote from: LLOYD on July 20, 2009, 09:28:00 AM
Hello Chuck,
with you, the only "problem", that become impossible to recognize reality with the model, or the model with reality!
You work with a microscope?
Wonderfull work and great quality of photograph
Sincerely!
Lloyd
The first time I saw one of Chuck's models was in Finescale... I emailed Russ to tell him I thought it was an April Fool's joke article, writing about a model while showing photos of a 1:1 building. Man, I love his stuff. Gary
Just an FYI, check out this link to see how some in the live steam model world are using RP:
http://ferrington.8k.com/Chaski/RP/
I am curious? With the parts on a sprue, couldn't a person make a rubber mold and cast them in resin or wax and produce them in mass? Seams like there are so many common parts we all want, and all a person would have to do is invest in the art work, have them made and then send them out to be cast, and or do it themselves? This seams to put some details that were out of reach for the common man, very doable?
Gil
Gil, you are talking about the kind of projects I have advocated for a decade. Let's say we all like Porter locos and want them in 1:32 scale. One or two guys with CAD programs draw a catalog of parts common to many engines and get them CNC machined or rapid prototyped, other guys with good mastering or modeling skills clean them up and prepare them for replication, and still other guys crank out the parts in resin, metal, or something else. For cabs, passenger cars, cabooses you send artwork to the laser guys, waterjet guys, whatever. And all the hobbyists who want the parts pay for the labor.
The hobby is shrinking, narrow gauge in particular and, in another decade, our segment will be TINY. Probably not big enough to warrant our own convention; it would be more like a "meet". The future will depend on groups of hobbyists working together to provide each other products.
Russ
Exactly! Think about Kemtron, even now there original stuff is still popular, forty years later! Stock Shay's and Porters were the prototypical norm in 1:1 why can't you have stock 1:32 or 1:24 parts catalog to build from, let's form a CO-OP of detail parts!
There are simple standard parts that everyone can use; the amount Chuck paid is peanuts compared to the PE parts or kits that are available. Lets start with Porter Side frames
Gil
Whew....looks like I'm already out of the co-op.....as long as you guys insist on doing US prototypes (and done-to-death Porters at that) I would be unable to muster any interest and enthusiasm...(I would rather have another fall on the bike).
MR
Like this???? ;D
Hey beggars can't be choosy! Give us something we can live with and I'll be happy
Gil
Thanks Gary!
Geez Gil! Guess I don't want to get on your bad side!
I was able to get my first Rapid Prototype part painted and installed. I first added a socket from brass tubing. After careful sanding, I primed the shade with flat black spray. When dry, I gave it a coat of hairspray followed by flat white spray on the bottom side, and Model Masters medium green on the top. I chipped it with a damp toothpick trying to copy the type of chips seen on porcelain shades. Then I carefully color sanded the surfaces as smooth as I could get (after overnight drying).
The bracket is bent brass wire, a 000-90 nut and washer to "fasten" the shade, and a wall mount turned from styrene with Tichy rivets for screw heads. This was sprayed with flat black, then hairspray followed by the Polly Scale cream. Then chipping with a damp stiff brush, followed by assembly to the shade.
Final weathering was with gwosh applied with a sponge, brush and damp toothpick, and Bragdon powders. I only lightly dusted the green with tan powder, since the porcelain stays glossy even when quite old. Some of my reference pics came from Flickr and several from E-bay, where I searched for barn lights and found many helpful close-ups of old shades for sale. I need to re-whiten my rusty socket, but otherwise it's done and installed (I am still debating turning another bulb).
So far, I'm pretty stoked about the whole experience!
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Print a Part advocates using these parts as casting masters. They do require clean-up, but someone with casting ability should be in good shape. You can easily make duplicate masters in case one is damaged.
Chuck, I really like the finish on the light shade very realistic ;) adding a bulb would be the finishing touch. Craig
Chuck, really neat finish just fits so well with all the rest, think you could say it was a very successful experiment..
Suggest that as you have already done one bulb you should really try to challenge yourself a bit more ;D how about a broken bulb ........ oh of course you need to show the filament ;)
Very nice. This kind of photorealistic modelling forces us to pay attention to the lowliest of features, like the lamp shade and its hardware, litter, smudges of oily hands on the garage door, all the things people overlook as they go about their business in 1/1 reality. Somehow the mundane becomes fascinating in miniature and every little component complements each other to create believability in the finished work. Very, very nice.
Ho-hum. About average for you, Chuck. I don't see what all the fuss is about. You can do this stuff in your sleep. Nevertheless I wouldn't mind publishing 20 pages about the diorama. -- Russ
Beautiful result, and great attention to detail, as always. I really like it. Also like the blanked-off junction box below the current light loc.
Marc
That is ridiculous! Unbelievable, great job!
As far as being on my bad side, no worries, I just have this sibling rivalry with Marc, I kinda whish he would have been my little brother, someone to boss around and pick on, he's got inner demons, I could have been one of more of them, I just miss the heck out of him, his misery brings me so much joy ;D ;D
Love ya marc, ware your helmet! I don't want your melon scrambled anymore than it already is ;)
Gil
Shucks Gil, thanks. You would have made a great big bro. ....someone to antagonize me, give me wedgies, and generally cause me all sorts of phsychological anguish.
Miss not having ya around here.
Marc
Great detail. But then we all expect that from Chuck. All the little things most people miss you seem to have found.
Just watching you move forward is a pleasure to watch.
Jerry
....you gotta be freakin' kidding me......
Outstanding as always Chuck... just an amazing eye.
Actually, I think Chuck has been pulling our leg here with this "model." As has happened in the past, specifically the wheel and the screen door and now the lamp, these items magically appear on Chuck's project within days of them disappearing from either my porch or backyard shed. At first I blamed it on the pack of hooligans living next door, but Chuck has admitted to taking these items. In his defense though he said he wouldn't bother with the midnight raids at all if I just cleaned this kind of stuff up instead of leaving them in such a tattered condition... ;)
Paul - off to buy some Krylon
Thanks Paul! I already scouted your new digs...you won't know what your missing!
A few more toys came in. Some oil lubester parts, a different style light shade, insulators and some electrical fittings for the sign lights. And an electrical box and empty meter insert. Now for the time to put it all together. I have some on order, but it hasn't arrived yet.
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I have been putting these on a "sprue" so they stay together for cleaning (by PAP). It also gives me a handle; I can cut them off and chuck the sprue in a pin vise as I do the smooth sanding (at least that's the theory!). I tried some thinner sections on these shades...looks OK, now to see if I can clean them.
The 3D models assembled:
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Chuck -- This PAP option looks VERY promising. What's the ACTUAL size of these? Going to use the "sprue" idea on my parts as well.
Fred H.
The shades are just a bit over 1/2" diameter. The hole in the front of the meter box is 1/4". (forgot the big penny shot!)
Chuck, Have you thought of doing these detail parts in Mass quantities and selling ??? to us less fortunate modeler's like myself :( that don't have access to this technology ;) The stuff your doing has not been done before...in 1/2 inch. I think there would be a market for it. [ thats my 2 cents worth] Craig
I agree, Craig but first I would need to purchase the software and a new computer to run it. Currently I only have access to some very high dollar stuff for personal use, and only a limited amount of that. I am watching Fred's use of Sketch-up to see if more cost-reasonable programs can be used. I would like to have full control of the 3D model process someday so I can do whatever I want without restrictions.
Of course then I would need to learn how to make 2 piece molds and castings in soft metal or resin. Maybe when I retire! (IF I can afford to. IF I make it to that age. IF I have all my faculties...)
Very interesting, thanks for showing us Chuck!
Boys you are all witnessing the future (for us real modelers) grin! ;D
-Marty
Yeah, what Marty said.
Chuck, you are doing the kind of stuff I have fantasized about for fifteen years. I have been waiting for the technology to catch up to my hopes and it looks as though it is getting there.
What kind of cleanup do the parts require? Any filing or sanding? Have you noticed any stepping? Are the parts as robust as styrene or good quality resin? Can you fill us in on the pros and cons?
Oh, one other thing: Do you think we could do an article about this "breakthrough" technology for a Modelers' Annual? (You don't have to write it; I could phone you.)
Russ
Well, from my very limited experience so far:
There are noticeable steps, but they are very shallow. I think a good coat of Mr. Surfacer would cover a lot of them up (yet to try this though.) The material sands easily, but since the translucent material can make it hard to tell when the surface step is gone, it is best to prime first to see the things you are trying to remove. I also have to stratagize my parts to allow for the sanding-small boltheads for example will be added later so I don't ruin then in sanding although they could easily be done in the 3D model. It seems hold paint very well, and ACC or epoxy works too (it's not a solventable glue material) It can also be cleaned with Lacquer thinner or Acetone.
You can't really scratch it with a fingernail, but it is fairly brittle. I could remove the smaller parts with a good finger thwack. There is also a tiny bit of warpage over the long sprue. I'm not sure how bad this can get, or if it can be corrected like a warped resin part.
The cost is reasonable to me since I could never fabricate these things easily, and almost certainly not 2 or more matching items. The cost and need to clean each part up could put a crimp in plans to do a lot of parts. The best use really would be to use them as masters for casting more. Then the cleanup time and costs (including the 3D model) could not be beat over a hand fabricated master (just look at the live steam guys-you could never fab a wood or other material pattern this easily-especially a mirrored part). But since I am doing a few items, and I only finish something about every 2 ½ years, it's looking good!
My outlook is that these are no different than any detail part I might buy from a manufacturer or scrounge from a kit. In fact, most of my modeling has been centered on using other people's parts for many years now. The only difference is the cost per part, and the fact that I get to decide what the item will be.
Somebody will eventually offer this kind of service; you specify the item and provide research, and someone will model it and send you the STL file to do with as you please. I also anticipate that the resolutions will keep improving and the costs will come down at least a bit. Eventually these things may become standard tools on modeler's workbench. Why not, I never dreamed I would be doing it and now I am!
Thanks, Chuck. Your answer is consistent with the few parts I have seen and from a conversation I had last fall with Bill Meredith (an excellent modeler from Ottawa). His conclusion was that 3D modeling is most effective when creating parts with compound curves. I didn't get to go into as much detail with him as you provide, though.
When you write that the parts you received "are no different than any detail part I might buy from a manufacturer or scrounge from a kit", do you mean they require about the same level of cleanup?
As Marc Reusser and I concluded this evening, at the rate hobbies are shrinking, twenty or so years from now we may buy many manufactured parts and complete models from individuals who design and output items from 3D CAD programs based on our specifications. They may replace at least some of today's mass produced plastic kits. I probably will be too old to build decent models but some of you guys may have a field day.
Russ
Great parts and you have given me some good ideas for my own work!
One thing, what is "PAP"?
Sorry...Print A Part. (I hate typing)
Russ I just meant it as a comparison to using something someone else made. There is extra cleanup required, but it is mostly light surface sanding, no flash or mis-matched mold distortion or worn out mold flaws...or sinkholes or air bubbles...so maybe in comparison to bad castings, it is better!
awesome venture!
Philip ;D
Thanks for the info Spencer! I saw a used Invision machine for 13k...maybe I'll get two!
I would love to see that show and see what the near future is bringing.
Chuck, if you want to know a few things about resin casting let me know. I have been getting good results with my techniques.
I'm going to be trying the PAP as well once I get my drawings done. Normally I build masters by hand with some laser cut parts but I have curved casting to make for an old iron bridge.
Y'all- for cheaper CAD look into TurboCad Deluxe. It works great in 2-D and is quite functional in 3-D for $130. I have been using it for about 7 years now. Not quite like SolidWorks but a good value.
John
Quote from: Spencer Grant on May 13, 2010, 11:55:31 AM
For example, SOLIDWORKS, that Chuck mentions, normally cost $2,500 or more but is available as a student edition for $99.00 for one year. (can be renewed)
Spencer Grant
Does it come with instructions? ;D
Thanks for the info, John!
Here some quickie checkpics I took of my hanging sign. The triangular bracket is old school, made from 1/16 diameter brass tubing, .025 brass wire and a piece of .015 x .08 flat styrene. A couple of McLeod nut castings finished it off. I used several applications of Polly Scale paint to build up some slaggy weld joints where the pipes meet the wall mount.
The light bracket is all Rapid Prototype parts save for the brass wire conduit and the two Tichy .02 rivet "screws" I added to the junction box (with the obligatory slots cut in). The ratty wiring is based on several old signs I saw. I found examples with standard flexible conduit, but several others had either bare Romex or extension cord material which seemed much more interesting (if not up to code!) I made it with annealed .012 brass wire that was first painted with a smooth coat of Polly Scale black. Once it was wrapped and glued in place, I took the same paint and applied some thick clumpy coats to certain areas, and then picked at it with a sharp toothpick to simulate crumbling insulation.
The metal finish is the same hairspray method I have been using with the exception of a gray undercoat on the junction box to simulate a galvanized item. The mounts for the light shades were also done in bare galvy for some variety. I'll do the final touch-ups after I get the light shades painted and mounted. I haven't decided yet if there will actually be a sign or just a couple of empty hangers.
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Looks like the PAP parts worked great!
The failing insulation with paint is another great trick.
I must say though; the weathering on the alligator clip is not consistent with the rest of the model.
-Marty
Yeah, it was probably dumb of me to print an alligator clip too!
Here are a couple of close-ups showing the kinds of layering apparent on the RP parts. It is inconsistant, and it varies in spacing from part to part. It may have to do with the part orientation when it is formed. The layers sand easily, but part designs should anticipate this need. The meter box is about 3/8" x ½".
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Okay, I'll be the first to ask: How do you sand those small parts without obliterating detail? -- Russ
Wow nice job as usual Chuck!
Thanks Franck!
Russ, I havent tried that meter disc yet, but for the other parts I have just carefully hand sanded using fine flex sticks and bits of sandpaper held in an aligator clip (smooth jaw heat sink type) or tweezers. THis is why I have omitted bolt heads and made the meter back an insert rather than one piece. This is also why these are best as masters or low-volume use. It still beats from-scratch fabrication time by miles for me.
I wasn't anticipating using RP parts in this project at all and it has been a nice surprise.
Chuck, based on this last post, I'm rethinking how I do that reefer ladder I've been working on. In 1:24 bolts/nuts can be pretty damn tiny, can't they?
That sign bracket assembly and finish, absolutely floor me. Just stunning.
Thanks for the close-up of the PAP. I was thinking/wndering about the layers/stepping vs. orientation benefits the other night.
Marc
That looks awesome, Chuck! I love the rotting insulation on the wire.
Thanks for the answer, Chuck. I was hoping you had invented a faster or more efficient way to sand small parts but I guess it's just the usual meticulous drudgery.
Need I add my praise to what the others have written about the sign bracket?
Russ
Once again, I'm speechless.
Chuck
I see you found your penny!!! As for the parts just as always another excellent job and a great how I did it.
It is worth the time between posts to see more of your work.
Jerry
It's probably worth pointing out here that Havard started a thread to draw attention to another rapid prototyping company. The examples on their site suggest cleaner output (less stepping and texture). -- Russ
The sign bracket...it's...I just...Chuck your work makes me want to be there, feel the small dry breeze that gently moves the sign (you need a sign, man), listen to the squeak of the hangers as I cup my hands to the dirty window to look inside, wondering if anyone is around so I can go in and poke around for old bottles and magazines.
I think we need to be realistic about the 3D printers, especially folks offering services to the modeling community on the smaller, less costly machines. I'm finishing up drawing a couple iron castings that would have been complex to scratch. So I will accept the lines and take the time to smooth and prime them as a master for casting. It is a miracle machine for those parts like the lamp shades.
Chuck, I am wondering if you simply primered, painted and applied weathering, would those layer lines show?
John
John, ill let you poke around for old bottles and magazines......while ill be looking up in the rafters for then old porcelain signs....NOS gas globes still in there orig box...oil cans....and calling a tow truck to pull out that old pickup thats behind them old doors ;D Chuck you got to put a sign on that pole ;) Craig
Thanks for the nice words! Yeah, Jerry my penny is back!
Thanks for those pics, Craig-just the kind of weathering I was looking for. I was just sanding the parts for the lubester last night. 20 min tops, and I was ready to assemble. Still beats scratch fab time and gets me to my favorite part of modeling faster. Even the pump is cleaning up easy and so far I haven't broken the pipes off.
John, the layer lines are inconsistent so some are more noticeable than others. The penny pic above shows a part just primered and the lines do show. But they look worse than they are. They sand off easy and I think a light sanding with a coat of Mr Surfacer would make it go even faster. The lines go thru the part, so in the pic of the meter box, it looks worse than it is-some of what you are seeing is inside the part. If you go with really crusty weathering then maybe even less sanding required! Russ, don't be afraid of a little modelling work!
I have gotten a hold of some decal paper to try a homeade decal sign, another new thing for me.
I finished one shade and mounted it. I almost finished the other and then ruined the paint. Do over time.
I also added the wiring coming out of the wall. At least they thought to put wire nuts on the exposed wires. I found a lot of pics with wiring just going through a hole in the siding. We don't need no stinkin' codes!
I also finished the flashing over the top boards.
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You love to do these little details, don''t you..................
amazing............inspirational.....
Jacq
Okay....how in the world did you do the wire nuts???
exceptional!
And; yea, how'd you make the wirenutz?
-Marty
If I could remember half the things you do to make a model come to life I'd be a wizard!!!!!
I ran out of words a long time ago for the things you do!! Let's just say Chuck is Chuck and it don't get any better than this.
Jerry
Chuck, Your weathering and finishes are spot on ;) Craig
Thanks! THe wire nuts are just a piece of Plastruct .020 rod, chucked in the drill press and hand sanded to a taper. Then cut to length and put a .008 drilled hole for .006 wires. Paint and serve. There is also a bit of electrical tape made from a strip of alum foil.
Jacq it is a sickness...best not to stand too close.
I thought the model already looked pretty good. This has brought it into the realm of sufficient. -- Russ
Well if Russ says it's OK, I guess it is. ???
Fabulous stuff Chuck. You are without a doubt, 'da man.
Oh sure, .020 rod chucked in a drill press, sanded to a taper, then drilled to take .006 wire ... no knurls on the outside, no little springy-threads on the inside. This is obviously much, much easier than it appears and we should all be doing it! And, if it's that "easy" to make scale electrical tape, then should be no problem to make scale duct tape and fix anything we screw up along the way. :D
QuoteJacq it is a sickness...best not to stand too close.
Chuck, if I wanted to catch it too what do I have to do??? :o ::)
John
Chuck,
I am a little disappointed, those wire nuts are not fluted ;) ;D
Stunning work.
Rick
talk about attention to detail. You win Chuck! You should write a book on how you do what you do.
Philip 8)
Quote from: Philip Smith on May 24, 2010, 11:25:09 PM
talk about attention to detail. You win Chuck! You should write a book on how you do what you do.
Philip 8)
Philip ,
He has written a book , or should I say he has written enough for a book , the only problem is that it is spread around the interweb and needs bringing together and collating . Can I put your name down as a possible volunteer to do that job ?
Chuck ,
Would you please take it as read that every time you post a picture or two that it meets with ones approval even though one might not post a note saying as much . That way , one can save one's typing finger from getting to sore ,
Nick
Chuck,
Would be nice to see one of the stuff ups one of these days, just to make us all feel a bit better. Other than that, I guess you just moved that bar a little higher.
Nick,
Voice recognition software...though it might struggle with the accent.
Cheers,
Dan
Thanks very much! Yes, the wire nuts fall short, but they were my first. I know someone who uses .003 diameter end mills; maybe I can do flutes next time! Dan, most of my stuff ups hit the wall too fast for my camera to capture.
Chuck-
amazing work and fascinating to see your processes coming to fruition.
Quotemost of my stuff ups hit the wall too fast for my camera to capture.
I don't know about anyone else here but a clip of one of your stuff-ups hitting the wall might be just as good! ;)
James
Quote from: shropshire lad on May 24, 2010, 11:48:02 PM
Quote from: Philip Smith on May 24, 2010, 11:25:09 PM
talk about attention to detail. You win Chuck! You should write a book on how you do what you do.
Philip 8)
Philip ,
He has written a book , or should I say he has written enough for a book , the only problem is that it is spread around the interweb and needs bringing together and collating . Can I put your name down as a possible volunteer to do that job ?
Nick
Not me Nick. It would have to be a big collective hunt. Some how in this age of digitization with server errors, nothing beats a hardcopy. Psst...Russ..Chuck 8)
Philip
Chuck has let me publish each of his dioramas since the Red Oak Garage a few years back. As outstanding as the earlier models may be, the more recent ones simply are in a league of their own and each gets a little better. So, if you have the last couple of Modelers' Annuals you have everything you need (I think). -- Russ
Chuck, Any progress on the oil dispenser?? and will there ever be a gas pump on that cement slab?? Heres a pic to get you motivated
Nothing beyond new plans!
I think R and D unique made a resin kit of that style. Thanks for the pic!
Chuck, Yes.... R & D Unique did do a pump like this....Tokheim model 850. Very nicely done i think. Craig
Wire nuts!???....I think you must be going a bit nuts! ;) ;D
Impressive and inspiring as always.
Marc
Thanks Marc!
I got the pump parts smoothed. These items have been primed to check smootheness and then stripped so I can apply the finer details.
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I got really lazy and had a tank printed. The fill hatch and the pump were done seperately to allow for sanding the surfaces. Hopefully I can get a run on this while watching the races this weekend!
I didn't get as much time as hoped this weekend, but at least I finished the sign bracket and got it mounted. Hopefully I won't bump it during the rest of the building.
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Shades were sanded, primed with Testors flat black and then sprayed with Testors flat white. Color sanded when dry, and then weathered with gwosh and pigment powders.
What 1100 miles of racing not enough?
I guess I am gonna have to break down and get some of that gwosh.
Any suggestions what colors to start with?
Oh and the scene looks great (as if you didnt know!)
-Marty
Thanks Marty! Actually there was a lot more than that including the Nationwide race on Sat. and the Grand Am on Monday.
I mostly use Burnt Sienna, Black and seriously mislabeled "Permanent" White. I mix these up to vary the shades.
For this project I also have Green and a shade of yellow for the siding. I need to get some Red for my gas pump.
Chuck, Marty -
GWOSH? Please tell me what this is?
A real newbie here,
Carlo
http://www.spirito.biz
Quote from: Carlo on June 01, 2010, 08:12:34 AM
Chuck, Marty -
GWOSH? Please tell me what this is?
A real newbie here,
Carlo
http://www.spirito.biz
They are 'pronouncing' gouache. Alternatives evidently are Gwash, Gowsh, Goo-ash (uk), Gwarsh, around London is Goo-aaaah-sh, France is Goo-w-ash, from Dictionary is (gwäsh, g-äsh), Australia is evidently .. gwarrshshmate ... :)
http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/archive/index.php?t-192859.html
Thanks for that! I had no idea all the different ways to say it. Sorry Carlo, I just get tired of needing spell check every time I try to spell it!
I thought you said " Garsh it sure looks good to me" ;D
To bad the race didn't last longer you could have almost been done.
Jerry
Ps Chuck is there any brand that you use or are they all about the same??
Thanks Jerry!
I have used the Windsor and Newton brand only. Garsh, I have no idea if different brands can vary.
Chuck,
You must stop trying to pass off pictures of the real thing as your models.
No wait, you made a time machine...I mean shrinking machine...and you make the real parts small, like scale model.
Ah Ha, ah ha ha...ah HA HA HA HA...I am the funny!!
Ahem...seriously though...some real kickass modeling.
Tom
Quote from: Carlo on June 01, 2010, 08:12:34 AM
Chuck, Marty -
GWOSH? Please tell me what this is?
A real newbie here,
Carlo
http://www.spirito.biz
Carlo
Guoache (sp?) is an opaque water color, it comes in tubes like water colors, oils etc and thins with water. It is great for rusting effects and chipping because it dries very flat, both in sheen and level. Plus (or minus) it is always workable, meaning once it dries it can be reactivated with water.
HTH,
Tom
Actually, in Australia its refered to as "bloodygwarrshshmate"...
Superb stuff Chuck. I really like the nice touch with the rusting iron capping, the small kinks and dents look cool. Still pinching myself with every new photo, looks more realistic than the real thing???
Cheers,
Dan
I thought the colors were "goulash" and they were thinned with vinegar ... nevertheless, Chuck does do a very nice job with them!
Further to what Tom said, they do remain "workable" ... or, they can be "fixed" with clear flat spray to avoid accidental re-working of the colors. ;)
Quote from: danpickard on June 01, 2010, 08:59:28 PM
Actually, in Australia its refered to as "bloodygwarrshshmate"...
Superb stuff Chuck. I really like the nice touch with the rusting iron capping, the small kinks and dents look cool. Still pinching myself with every new photo, looks more realistic than the real thing???
Cheers,
Dan
Dan ,
Actually , I believe you have given the abbreviated form . Shouldn't it read "bloodygwarrshmatewannanuvvertinny?"
Nick
Okay, everybody except Chuck -- go stand in the corner!! Oh, heck. Chuck, you may as well join them because you probably deserve to be there anyway. -- Russ
So is The Corner the new Middle Of The Room ? As Russ is the only one left in the middle of the room that must make him the naughty boy .
What he hasn't realised yet , is that it is more funner in the corner .
Nick , making himself comfortable facing the wall
As a long-standing permanent resident of the corner, I can say that it is definitely the place to be, though it has been getting a little crowded of late. Marc keeps taking my whisky and Chuck likes to grab my comfy chair, so it's getting harder to defend my territory... ;)
Thought for the morning tho... if the book were called "Average Expectations," it wouldn't be worth Dickens...
Paul
Don't know why I haven't thought of it before but just had a hideous flashback to my school days when one was sent to stand "IN THE BIN, IN THE CORNER", but that was the good old days of an English Grammar School.
Russ, if you need to go up a disciplinary level I'd suggest a collection or 'flock' (if that is the collective term) of bins would add an extra frisson of humiliation.
James
Thanks guys! Paul, the book "Average expectations" sounds like a Microsoft manual.
Finally got back to it and finished the oil pump for the lubester. It's a composite item using the RP part I had made, and brass wire tie rods and styrene bolt heads ( BTW, the concept of cutting bolt heads from Plastruct hex material is easier said than done!) I also added a handle lock from brass shim stock and a styrene vee on the drain pipe (used to klop the glass bottle against and push drain pipe out of the way.)
Primed with Testors flat black
Hairspray
Dullcoat seal
Thinned Polly Scale Red Chromate brushed on
Chip with wet toothpick and stiff brush
Weathered with gwosh and pigment powders.
I'll do some final touchups when I finish the tank portion.
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I tapped the bottom of the part and threaded in a screw to hold it while painting.
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Marc, I used some Vallejo red to play with differing shades. Didn't do a lot, but I did find the paint to work nicely for the task.
Geez, Chuck....don't you ever get tired of making the rest of us look bad?
That pump is uncanny. We have a couple of real ones here at work that
don't look as realistic as yours............
I'll do some final touchups when I finish the tank portion.
Why I ask? Nature couldn't have done a bettter job of weathering!!!!!
Jerry
I agree with Ken and Jerry. I can't imagine touch ups making a noticeable improvement.
Let me add this: That one insignificant little pump is so terrific it, alone, would be worth an article. Most satisfactory!
Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on June 14, 2010, 01:40:02 PM
I agree with Ken and Jerry. I can't imagine touch ups making a noticeable improvement.
Let me add this: That one insignificant little pump is so terrific it, alone, would be worth an article. Most satisfactory!
Russ
And if all those articles on "insignificant little objects " that Chuck builds were put together what would you have ?....
The World's greatest bloody modelling book . Ever . Bar none .
So what are you waiting for Russberg ? Get on with it . That could be your swansong and legacy to the hobby as you ride off into the sunset on your motorised wheelchair and sidecar with a bevvy of bikini clad beauties clinging onto you worn out and broken body !
And don't start bleeting on about having it all already published throughout you Annuals 'cos I don't want to know . I want all of Chuck's published and unpublished work in one place so I don't have to go rummaging around all my Annuals to find what I'm looking for . Surely that is not to much to ask for ?
Nick
Quote from: Chuck Doan on June 14, 2010, 07:10:18 AM
Primed with Testors flat black
Hairspray
Dullcoat seal
Thinned Polly Scale Red Chromate brushed on
Chip with wet toothpick and stiff brush
Weathered with gwosh and pigment powders.
I'll do some final touchups when I finish the tank portion.
a) It looks unbelievable ... no, actually, it looks extremely believable ...
b) I'll take a copy of that book ... of course Russ will make me figure out how many days there are left in the month and divide that by Pi and then I'll have to subscribe to the remaining pages of the book left after the cut-off date ...
c)
QUESTION: Is that correct (above)? Hairspray ... THEN a dullcoat seal ... then brush on the thinned Polly S? Dullcoat gives a base for brushing on the Polly S over the hairspray ... or ... ??
Inspiring stuff -- thanks!
Dallas
Nick, you made me laugh out loud with that utterly insane description of me in the motorized wheelchair and side car. Go stand in the corner! -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on June 15, 2010, 01:15:35 AM
Nick, you made me laugh out loud with that utterly insane description of me in the motorized wheelchair and side car. Go stand in the corner! -- Russ
Not until you say you'll do the book . Then I'll happily go and join whoever is there this week . Oh , it's only me . At least I'll be able to have an intellegent conversation with myself !
Nick
Quote from: shropshire lad on June 15, 2010, 05:53:15 AM
Oh , it's only me . At least I'll be able to have an intellegent conversation with myself !
Nick
Hey now... I'm still in permanent residence in the corner having been banned here for life, so you don't have to be talking to yourself, unless of course you feel compelled to do so, in which case move your chair just a little further over there.... ;) ;D ;D
Paul
Corners aside, you talked me into it, Nick. I'll get together with Chuck (and maybe a few others of you) and create a book (or books) on the most effective ways of modeling various things. Don't expect it soon; it will be one of those projects I'll tackle in a few years, after the social security checks start arriving.
Why so long? Because the books won't sell that well. In fact they may have to be available only as digital files. The strength and nature of the market will dictate the format.
Russ
Hurray , the irritating bloody Brit wins again ! Well ,almost .
I realise that it would be a long term project but we all know that after retirement you would soon get bored with empty headed blondes lapping up your every word , so it wouldn't be to long before you were looking around for something new to get your teeth into . And this is it .
Nick
QuoteWhy so long? Because the books won't sell that well.
I wouldn't go off right away being Chicken-Little and screaming "the sky is falling".......look at the MIG "FAQ" book....that thing sold out in no time, and some copes were selling for close to $100, if you found one. Yes, Mig, already had a market and following amongst the armor guys....but still. You just need to create a book that is modeling and technique oriented...and not too RR oriented, cause almost none of the RR guys will ever pony up $100 for a high quality modeling book. Not if the can buy a Dave Frary book, or a CD from that what-his-name-on the east-coast that does all tha FSM type crap.....for under $10 in the amazon discount section, or the sale table at the swap meet (or for that matter by a prebuilt model by that Mad-Mike doofus, or someone sim, for less than the book.)
MR
Goodness Marc you are on a role lately! But I do share your thoughts. Why have railroad modelers been lead down a bath of dumbing down? (Idiocracy on flanges wheels?! >:() It seems military modelers continue to step up their game.
The "book" sounds good no mater what the format. I'll take one.
John
I was going to comment on all this wish-full thinking of all this Shit that everyone wants everyone to come out with......but ill just say.......... Wish in one hand and Shit in the other and see which get's full the quickest.
Well, I'm full of shit. So hold out your hand!
Seriously, I think Nick's idea is good. So good I thought of it three years ago, around the time I was working on the first Modeler's Annual. So if my mind and body are capable of creating books in a couple of years and if you guys want me to publish your artistry, I promise to offer the first book. If it sells, we'll do another.
Russ
I'll place my order now please Russ, and consider it a very worthy coffee table modellers book, that I think even the non-modeller would be interested in having a browse through its pages.
Cheers,
Dan
PS: I only think you're full of shit when you talk about the number of bikini clad models strutting around the office. Hugh Hefner, maybe...Uncle Russ, maybe, with his eyes closed and imagination working overtime ;D
Quote from: danpickard on June 16, 2010, 02:10:47 AM
PS: I only think you're full of shit when you talk about the number of bikini clad models strutting around the office. Hugh Hefner, maybe...Uncle Russ, maybe, with his eyes closed and imagination working overtime ;D
Funnily enough , Dan , this is about the only thing Russ says that I actually believe . The rest is hogwash !
Nick
I like the sidecar idea for the wheelchair, got to have a thong clad nurse ready at all times!
Any book should feature models on models. Take that any way you want ;)
Dallas you are correct, I used the Dullcoat as a sealer over the hairspray since I handbrush the thinned Polly scale. It is not in the original recipe where an airbrush is used.
I seem to have credibility issues regarding both publications and bikini girls. How humiliating. -- ssuR
Develop a system that involves bikini girls delivering the books ... and I think you'll have the problem licked. So to speak.
Perhaps a chain of Gentleman's reading rooms.
Both excellent suggestions although Chuck's wording wins the Clever Euphemism Award. -- Russ
Quote from: shropshire lad on June 16, 2010, 06:20:23 AM
Quote from: danpickard on June 16, 2010, 02:10:47 AM
PS: I only think you're full of shit when you talk about the number of bikini clad models strutting around the office. Hugh Hefner, maybe...Uncle Russ, maybe, with his eyes closed and imagination working overtime ;D
Funnily enough , Dan , this is about the only thing Russ says that I actually believe . The rest is hogwash !
Nick
Well put Sir Nick!!!! ;D
Jerry
I finally finished the tank for the oil dispenser/lubester/highboy. I mounted the fill hatch, and added a hinge stop, hinge plates a dipstick knob. And thanks to Craig's suggestion, my garage now has brand affiliation.
Finishing steps for the tank:
Testor's flat black primer
Coat of Treseme Tres 2 extra hold aerosol.
Coat of Dullcoat sealer
Polly Scale white mix airbrushed on
Quick dry with hair dryer-created a "micro crackle" effect.
Chip with damp toothpick, short stiff brush dipped in water
Apply decal
Gwosh rust and black applied with cosmetic sponge-seal w Dullcote
Gwosh rust streaking with small brush/wet toothpick-seal w Dullcoat
Apply pigment powders to exposed chips
Add oil with gwosh and pigment powders for texture.
Slight touch of thinned Floquil High Gloss on oil.
Decal:
I found a lubester decal image on the web, and modified it a bit in Photoshop. I imported several copies in Word and made them an appropriate size. I printed them on Testor's white decal sheet for ink jet printers and when dry, I sealed them with the Testor's decal seal spray. Cut out and applied as normal. I found the decal film a bit thick and rubbery. The image around the edges deteriorated some, but it was OK for this. I plan to try some different paper next time (hopefully by a different mfg.)
For reference, this is 2.125" high.
I'm really pleased with the results of the 3D printed parts so far.
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Thanks Marty, good idea!
Well........just kidding!
Looks great, neat to see the composite images.
Any way to put the computer drawing next to the raw part & finished one?
Would be kinda cool to see the drawing evolve to the model.
Great SBS too.
-Marty
Superb !!!!
That blue 3D model looks very good next to the real one. ;D ;D ;D
But why so many photo's of the real one ??
Jacq
Sublime ................... Simply;- "Sublime".
Geez, Chuck.....that is SO perfect.
Ditto, ditto, ditto ... and damn that's good!
Cheers,
Dallas
Chuck, Glad to help in your pick of brand Affiliation ;D The Flying Red Horse... great choice. The oil Lubester what can i say ......the color and weathering is just.... Spot On....Look's great ;D ;D ;D Craig
That is absolutely the most hideous attempt to emulate reality I have ever seen, an embarrassment to all concerned. Disgusting. Revolting. Crude. Immoral.
But not bad.
Russ
Devoid of """caricature""" and """charm""""
I love it! ;D
Dave
I thought a few pages back you said I'll do some touchups!!!
God Chuck it's perfect. And the step by step hell anyone could do that now. I think not.
Jerry
Excellent Chuck, and when you find a white decal paper that doesn't get rubbery, let us know.
Absolutely perfect! In the photos, it's indistinguishable from the real thing.
It is a thing of beauty. I am though finding myself wishing for just the smallest of dents in one of the front edges ;) ;D
MR
Holy crap.... :o :o
Paul
Thanks all! This was a funner piece of the project. I love that hairspray method!
Hmm, dents, I didn't come across any noticeable dents in my prototype searches-I think these were pretty heavy wall tanks. Of course now I will go back and see nothing but dents! I will make up for it on the gas pump though... ;D
Chester, this was the first time I tried homemade decals. I take it rubbery film is normal? At first I tried to chip the edges, but it just pulled like a vinyl decal would. Then it wouldn't go back to flat, so I had to do another one. Once I rolled the water out from underneath it seemed OK. I need to do more playing around.
What about "air erasing" the edges of the decal before applying (or may be after)?
I think Marc did this didn't he?.........
On large scale models each piece becomes a model in and of itself.
-Marty
I did try Marc's idea...it faded nicely, but I was looking for chipped edges. A Microscale decal does it nicely, but not this stuff. May try pre cutting chipped edges before applying.
Chuck, your model is again very inspiring! Perfect to the smallest detail! Thank you for the beautiful pictures!
Marcel
Wow Chuck, awesome!
The weathering is not caricatural, only perfect!
Chuck, The sign on the lubester if your going to do another one and think the decal was to thick or hard to work with... you could make the sign as a small porcelain one that would be attached on with 2 screw's...which you could make out of thin styrene. This would be correct as Mobil did have these. ... And if you really want to go the extra mile use PAP and do another lid that has a Gargoyle logo.... with the weight of the oil Cast in the lid ;D Craig
Thanks Marcel and Franck! Thanks Craig for the additional info. I did see some lids with cast in lettering...maybe if I do one in 1/12th scale!
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Into a summer slowdown. I did get the lubester planted, but that's been it for a few weeks. :(
That is the most realistic scene I've ever seen.
Jerry
Certainly looks completely part of the scene and not just an add on.
Out of interest Chuck the chain you have used for the padlock do you remember how many links per inch or where you got it from ?
Thanks Jerry!
Gordon, I used Builders In Scale 40 LPI blackened chain. I got it at my LHS, but I think CC Crow has it.
A masterpiece.
Appreciate info Chuck ............ explains why my padlock & chain don't look right!
Satisfactory. -- Russ
This last shot is one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen, Chuck.
It looks amazingly real Chuck, is the glass on the window purposely out of place? Shouldn't it be cracked or something?
I noticed you were into a summer slowdown because I've seen you trough the forums more often!
When I look at Chuck's stuff I think this is the best anyone can do, then Chuck does better.
amazing detail & finish Chuck. Are those long small 1/4-20 bolts printed or were they add-ons ?
philip
A real masterpiece!
Thanks Guys! Nelson, I copied a couple of neat windows found on Flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/marcygallery/1758840308/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/arielarielariel/1618498502/
Phil, if you mean the ones in the Pepsi sign, they were dimpled in with a punch and die in my drill press (not spinning) The sign was printed on Epson presentation paper, then covered with Scotch magic tape and burnished. Then I added the "bolts" from the back. Then soda blasting for tooth and Gouache N Powders. I also Dullcoated the backside for humidity protection.
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It's hard to get a good crop from this side; someday I will learn how to paste in a scenic backdrop.
Great stuff Chuck
Do you do your photography outside in natural light or do you have some kind of studio set up?
Cheers
Jim
I like the real (and hot) sun. I haven't mastered Russ's indoor sunshine shots yet!
I should have been more clear. I was referring to the lubester. :-[
sorry me, philip
Ah, got it. I accidently left the tie rods on the computer model view. I put them in the 3D model to check the fit, but left them off the file I sent for printing. I did print holes for them and used .010 brass wire, then topped them off with sliced Plastruct hex stock for bolt heads.
The knob and handle were printed as shown and I added an NBW casting for the mounting bolt.
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Corrected view
Chuck,
First off good stuff, but you knew that. Thanks for sharing everything!
Now, about the background shots.
If you get a piece of lime green poster board (like kids use for science fairs)
Use that as the background to take the picture.
Then send that image and the background you want to me I can use my "green screen" program to merge the images.
I did this at my daughters sock hop.
Took pictures of all the girls and their dads and made it look like they were in a 50's diner.
Also used it on the tool shed pictures you saw recently.
-Marty
Chuck --
The diorama's been looking good from the start ... and now it's way beyond, um, my capacity for appropriate superlatives. ("Crazy cool" isn't very clever, but I like that!) Thanks for all the progress shots and tips & techniques along the way ... extremely inspiring and much appreciated.
Cheers,
Dallas
These guys keep beating around the bush, Chuck. What they're really trying to say, in a very polite and roundabout way, is that you really should try to polish up your modeling skills. -- ssuR
You mean it wasn't obvious? :-\
Chuck, Here's a picture of a mobil sign hanging showing the brackets and the way it was back then. Im sure you have this info if not.... this might help. That is if your still going to hang the flying red horse off the sign bracket ;)
Thanks for the offer Marty. I'll look into a green backdrop when I get closer to doing the finished shots.
Thanks Dallas!
Thanks for that Craig! Great old ad too. I'm still planning to do that sign if the decals cooperate.
Chuck, would it be possible to do the sign without using decals? Maybe by printing on two sides of some kind of card or paper, then sealing it and adding stiffness with a clear coat? Seems as though you have used that approach in the past with excellent results. -- Russ
That may be an option, but since this is a two sided sign, the thickness will be visible plus aligning both sides. Will have to see....
I spent a bit of time playing with some artsy crops...should have been building but didn't didn't feel like it. Who needs to model when you have Photoshop?
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Chuck, Just picked up Adobe Photoshop Elements 8 is this a good one?? Havent installed it yet. Or should i get something else. Craig
I've got Elements version 7. So far it is enough for me, but I am sure there are others with more expertise who could weigh in on benefits, etc..
One option for the sign would be to print it on adhesive vinyl. Put one on each side of a thin base material such as sheet brass, then weather it to look like an enameled metal sign.
Well, I haven't done an update here yet, but I did a tin sign for the 1/35 garage by printing it on .0025" thick paper and smearing the back with ACC a couple of times to stiffen it up. Finished thickness is no more than .005" -- still "too thick" if someone uses calipers and a calculator while viewing the thing, but looks about right! ;)
Anyway ... point is, even with some "stiffening" of the very thin paper, it still has a tendency to CURL a bit (see photo below) ... and I think that would be incredibly extremely annoying on a hanging sign ... and my gut feeling is that the curl would worsen over time. (Mine is glued flat on end of building, so no worries in that case.)
Might be tricky and annoying to cut ultra-thin sheet metal to the desired shape, but seems like that would be the best bet for a sign that's thin enough AND hangs properly.
Also, I just did a quick search out of curiosity and quickly found one place that lists ultra-thin plastic shim stock all the way down to .0005" (yes, triple-0-five ... 1/10 the thickness of the thinnest Evergreen stuff if that's true):
http://www.artuscorp.com/shim_stock.htm
They also list aluminum at .002" thick, brass at .001" thick, stainless steel at .001" thick. Think you can probably get similar size aluminum by cutting up a soda or beer can!
So, if the thin metal doesn't work out, you might want to see what you can do with thin plastic ... maybe somewhere between .001" and .005" would be "adequate" to achieve the desired look and still have some rigidity.
Look forward to seeing your actual solution! ;D
How 'bout lead foil?
Further thought, I have a pack of Verlinden Lead Foil set aside:
http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/VER00000050/product.php?kw=VER00000050
Seems to measure about .0065" thick ... perhaps thicker than you'd like, but lead foil would win a "hanging contest" by a mile (yeah, I'll head for the corner) ...
Also, some crappy extreme close-ups below ... sorry, I didn't have the patience to work out extreme close-up focus on shiny metal surface ... BUT ... there's a lot of potential here if you want creased metal or mangled edges. The bare lead foil has a nice aged metal look to it. Also, think this might be available at hardware stores as lead flashing ... probably somewhere to find it even thinner ... or you might be able to roll it out thinner in a pasta press (and then get lead poisoning when you use that to make pasta, but that's how these things go!) ;D
PS -- After posting this, I can see that the thumbnails actually look better than the enlargements as far as showing the crinkled edges and creasing possibilities. So ... no clicking required!
Thanks for the ideas! I haven't done a two-sided sign before, so there are new things to try. I have some .002 steel shim stock, but cutting the shape could get tricky as you say, Dallas. Last resort, an empty sign bracket and the footprints of a collector!
Empty sign bracket.....and footprints of a collector ::) ::) yes...I like that one. Craig
How close to completion is the diorama? It seems you are only a few hours away. -- Russ
Currently it is sitting quietly, acquiring a thin and realistic coating of dust.
Quote from: Chuck Doan on July 28, 2010, 02:11:27 PM
Currently it is sitting quietly, acquiring a thin and realistic coating of dust.
Will this be the first time dust is really realistic in a model ;DChuck use some of the energy you have stored away and go forth we are waiting.
Jerry
Quote from: Chuck Doan on July 28, 2010, 09:14:18 AM
Thanks for the ideas! I haven't done a two-sided sign before, so there are new things to try. I have some .002 steel shim stock, but cutting the shape could get tricky as you say, Dallas. Last resort, an empty sign bracket and the footprints of a collector!
Chicken!Enough about how tricky it is to cut out a shield shape ... now "man up" and do the flying horsey by itself!
Which, actually, could be a lot easier than doing a two-sided sign with printed lettering. Here's my horse-brained logic on that: print the logo to desired size ... one seller says 30 x 16.5" actual ... paste that to .005" styrene. Cut out the shape ... which is no big deal in styrene ... paint it red ... scratch off the red where the white appears a la making an etching ... repeat on the other side. Once the shape is cut out, the "alignment" issue is gone ... it's just facing the other way on the other side. Since there's no layering of decals, etc, then some of the issues of thickness are diminished. And, the solo horsey is a really cool and subtle detail. (C'mon, man, you made scale wire nuts for crying out loud!) ;D
PS -- Did you know they made little Pegasus charm bracelet doo-hickeys ... that measure about 1-1/4" across? Hmm ... (search "Mobilgas pegasus charm" ... plenty of results)
Do know that Sinclair used plenty of 3-D dinosaur promos ... don't know if Mobil ever hung 3-D signs ... but interesting (and damned easy) possibility
cheap surrogates.......................
Only an exact model will do here. You have to be in the mood to make one..... ;)
Chuck wonderfull how this has grown, thanks we were allowed to participate....
Jacq
Hey I've your chicken right here bud! ;D
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Thanks for the ideas Dallas! Mobil had a bunch of interesting signs and I doubt I have seen but a fraction of them.
This is the one I am looking to do:
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Just a quick paper doll cutout to judge a good size. I haven't really applied myself too hard yet, if I can get my decals to apply OK then it should be easy. ::)
This is another neat one:
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Quote from: Craig_H on July 29, 2010, 07:50:06 AM
...any questions Gas related i might be able to help ::) Here's a few of my orig Mobil gas pieces :) Craig
Craig --
Good to know and thanks. Interesting that the little keychain fob you've shown has the 3-D pegasus on it ... did they ever do any signs with relief to them or only flat? The "chicks for sale" version that Chuck posted with the cut-outs is a cool variation on the flat sign!
For Sinclair, the little brontosaurus charms that are available would work for certain of their promo items (like die-cast banks in the larger scales) ... and various brontosaurus toys would work for the big 3-D Dino's that perched on and around the stations ... interesting stuff.
And, while I'm thinking of it ... below is a photo of an old BP gas pump in Europe (NOT to start any "BP" related discussion) ... but I have a nice little resin gas pump from Verlinden that looks just like this. Was anything similar used in the U.S. in the "pre-visible" era ... or is this a strictly European design?
Thanks!
Dallas
Quotebut I have a nice little resin gas pump from Verlinden that looks just like this. Was anything similar used in the U.S. in the "pre-visible" era ... or is this a strictly European design?
Dallas
I'm pretty sure that's a pump made by the French company Satam. They were certainly exported (we had them in New Zealand -- there was some connection with a local company called Pallo Engineering who later made their own pumps) and the company was taken over by Tokheim in the 90s, but whether their early pumps made it to the States I don't know.
Craig & Kevin --
Thanks for the additional info! Hopefully, Chuck is off rolling up his sleeves and actually making a sign as we chat in his thread! 8)
Dallas
Here's a nice petrolina auction: http://www.matthewsauctions.com/gallery.php?action=get&id=417 (http://www.matthewsauctions.com/gallery.php?action=get&id=417)
Lots of nice Mobiloil signs:
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Mark
Thanks for the link Mark! Some nice signs for sure.
Dallas my fingers are caught in my sleeves...now what?
You had 666 posts to your name when I saw this message ... therefore, I respectfully suggest that you bang your head on the table and shout "out, demon, out!"
Then have a beer or what-not and get to work on that sign. ;D
Dallas, I stand corrected about the Mobil sign here's a picture i just found of a relief horse both sides :o never seen one before ??? Might of been made special for a promotion they were doing. Anyway its COOL and would love to own it. Craig
Wow, cool combo ... now, just by eyeballing, if you took one of those little charms (which are available pretty inexpensively) and wanted to make a model of this car & trailer ... what scale are we talking? HO, S, O ... or ???
I know that I scared you a bit with my "creative" (or more likely "offbeat") approach to looking at things ... appreciate your factual knowledge to rope that in ... and pleasantly surprised to find that fact is just as strange and visually appealing as fiction! What a great little advertising vignette that would make. Yeah, I know, you want the REAL big pegasus ... I'd settle for time to put one of the charms into a scale setting! ;D
PS -- Maybe Chuck already modeled the advertising trailer and THAT's what is hidden away behind those locked garage doors ... safe from collectors. 8)
PPS -- Did you notice the detail on the hubcaps?
Cheers,
Dallas
Now that would be an amazing thing to find today!
I decided to try scratchbuilding my gas pump. Slowly making progress:
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Nice progress Chuck, are you going to print any parts on this one to? How about the transparent parts?
Hi Nelson,
Most everything will be printed except the tie rods and probably the piping. Mark Layton generously supplied me with a couple of 1/2" OD glass test tubes for the cylinder. I got a hold of a tubing cutter but I haven't tried it yet (fingers crossed). At least I have enough material to scrap a few. The hose material is yet to be determined.
I'm basing it on a 1928 Wayne 615 pump that has fairly simple details (for ease of sanding). One thing I have learned is that I do not like sanding the RP parts.
Of course all plans subject to change without notice!
Up to a point, I'm willing to spend more money if it saves tedious, boring work. Designing windows on CAD and sending them out to be laser cut rather than spending hours fabricating them is one example. So, in your case, I, too, would evaluate a hi-res rapid prototype option to avoid tedious hours sanding parts.
None of us here seems to spend the thousands of dollars on our hobby that some guys with huge layouts do. So the additional couple of hundred we may "squander" on higher quality components often makes a lot of sense.
Please report back on the service you choose and the quality of the output.
Russ
Chuck, On your gas pump I'm surprised your not useing a R&D Unique gas pump as a starting point ??? there a nice quality kit.....i thought you had some? or are you just showing off again useing PAP ;D Craig
Hi Chuck,
A few pages back there was talk of doing a two sided "flying Pegasus" sign. A method I use for 1/48 truck mudflaps may be of interest. The downside is it requires he use of a laser cutter. Start by printing the desired color-in your case red-on both sides of some double-sided-matte paper. Etch the design and the white shows through. Cut a reverse of the design in the paper, remove waste, flip the original, drop into the hole you just made and etch that side. The cut doesn't need to deep, only enough to get through the color. This reduces discoloation of the white underneath and makes it look painted not etched. You should be to put tape over the top of the paper, if desired, before cutting. I seal the paper with dullcote or whatever and haven't experienced any problems with curling of the mudflaps(leave it alone Russ ;D). Hope this helps. I know it gave me some new ideas. Guess that 's why I hang out here.
the other Craig
The flying pegasus is a really nice sign, but I'd question its use in this diorama. It goes back to Russ's nice commentary on consistency over in another thread. Chuck is building a model of a mundane gas station; its visual impact comes not from the artistic quality of the subject matter, but from his photo realistic execution in miniature. A mundane station calls, IMHO, for a mundane sign. I would think the shield is the more typical sign for a location such as this one, and would not call too much attention to itself, letting the rest of the scene sink in. Which is not to say that Chuck couldn't pull it off perfectly in any case.
Dave
Sounds like a good technique, Craig, but I'm really confused by your description. Specifically:
1.) Print the color with an inkjet? Or does it matter what kind of printer you use?
2.) By "etch the design and the white shows through" do you mean laser cut the design into the printed paper? If so, then see my fourth question. And if not, then how would you etch it?
3.) "Cut a reverse of the design in the paper." How? What design? This is completely unclear to me. Maybe a photo or a sketch would clarify it.
4.) When you again refer to etching and to discoloration, are you suggesting the laser would scorch the paper. Because, if it does, how would the laser cut paper retain its original white color?
Got a photo of the mudflaps on your truck? That would help, too.
Russ
Sorry for the confusion...
1.) I've only used Epson double sided matte paper for this project. I chose it because of the thickness, the way it takes ink and it's printable on both sides. I suppose any paper would work but when doing a two sided object(haven't tried it yet) the thickness may be needed to keep from cutting through. Yes, I used an inkjet printer and printed on both sides.
2.) Sorry, used the word etch as that's what most people call what I do. Engrave or cut is a better term. Engraving would not cut all the way through the object, cutting will. Yes I would engrave the white parts of the design, in the example of Pegasus, the white parts of the wings, facial features, etc. and then cut the outline releasing the design from the paper.
3.) The reverse cut would be the outline of the design only. Remove the first design, turn it over, drop in the hole ( for lack of a better word ) you just cut and engrave that side.
4.) My job involves engraving and cutting acrylic mostly. The mudflaps were done after hours (that what the boss thinks) a couple of years back. I don't remember if the paper discolored or not, if it did looking at the two flaps I have here, I don't know how I would have filled the white in. The power involed for this job would be minimal, so I don't think discoloration would be a problem.
Now having said all that, I'm going to have to try this when I get a chance The two sided part is the only tricky thing about it. If that didn't work you could always cut two designs-one reversed-and glue them back to back.
Hope this helps
the other Craig
Russ, I will investigate the more expensive process, perhaps for an article on same? (I will call re my expense account needs) ;D
Craig, I was going to use the RD Fry pump, but after looking at reference pics I decided to try a more full bodied pump. ;) We'll see how it comes out.
Other Craig, that sounds like an interesting process. I'll keep it mind for future applications. Dave is correct about my mundacity in this dio, so I will attempt the boring sign first.
I finished the pump design up to the hose and nozzle:
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Re. the drawing: Wowsers.
Re. an article: DEFINITELY!!!!! This is something I really want to pursue in print. Money is no object; I'll have my cats print up some new hundred dollar bills for you at once.
Ideally I would try to incorporate the experience and information from you, Havard, and Marc in one very comprehensive article. If everyone is up for that, we could run it in the December 2011 book. I would place no limit on its length; whatever it takes to tell the story. At the very least I want a full report on your experience with PAP and any other service bureaus you try. By that time the entire diorama may be complete and we could do a separate article on it in the same book.
On a related topic, maybe I could do a sidebar article with Dave Krakow on how he's pushed the envelope with lasers, concentrating on his brickwork and those amazing wrenches and gears.
I hope this won't be wishful thinking because we never did cobble together that multi-author article on modeling bricks ....
Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on August 09, 2010, 01:27:27 PM
Ideally I would try to incorporate the experience and information from you, Havard, and Marc in one very comprehensive article. If everyone is up for that, we could run it in the December 2011 book. I would place no limit on its length; whatever it takes to tell the story. At the very least I want a full report on your experience with PAP and any other service bureaus you try. By that time the entire diorama may be complete and we could do a separate article on it in the same book.
It is an honor to be asked to contribute to the annual.
I say that without a hint of irony.
Regards, Havard H
I received my gas pump "kit" yesterday (the square-ish parts are an electric meter). The pump body is just under 3" long and is hollow to use less resin.
I gave the gallon indicators a quick spritz of primer; I should have cleaned them first so there's a touch of wax residue still on them. Wayne pumps had 3 sets of cast aluminum indicators so there are 30 tiny bits to keep track of. They are .010 thick, .07 high by .125 wide. The numbers are .006 thick. It looks like maybe a good cleaning and a coat of Mr. Surfacer (gotta get some) should take care of these without further sanding. These sit on tiny sprues and are very fragile...high marks to PAP for cleaning these without dislodging them.
Looks promising!
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That is impressive and a fine advert for your drawing skill as well.
Look forward to seeing this one develop through construction and paint .... was thinking of doing a UK pump of the 1950's but think I may be getting out of my league, or two !
Your drawings look great and glad to see the resolution on the tiny parts came out so well.
Stupid question: the gallon markers are numbered 0-10 from top to bottom ... I know that's correct (after looking at proto pix to try to sort this out) ... but never seen one of these old pumps working and it seems counter-intuitive. If you put a gallon of gas in a 10-gallon cylinder, there should be a gallon of gas at the BOTTOM of the cylinder. Did they use some sort of floats for the counters or ... howzat work? ???
On further thought, maybe that's the gravity-feed aspect ... if they had to FILL it with 10 gallons and then mark off how much is drained from the cylinder, then the top-down numbering makes sense. Still, since at least a couple of you guys actually KNOW things about these pumps, I'd be curious about an actual explanation to replace the guessing to understand the fine modeling going on here! ;)
Duh,
Dallas
Thanks Gordon!
Dallas, I have seen them numbered both ways. Mostly they were like this one. Normally they would pump the cylinder full and drain the desired amount, so you are counting what you are getting as it empties.
What I don't know is how they figure in the amount in the hose.... ???
And did they calculate the volume used up by the pipes and indicators in the cylinder?
This project just keeps getting better. The resin parts look amazingly good all things considered. The whole diorama is a master class in how to scratchbuild whatever you want to uncompromising standards. -- Russ
Of course you could buy a real one ?
www.christies.com/LotFinder/lot_details.aspx?pos=10&intObjectID=4532516&sid=
I wasn't actually looking for your pump but trying to get some information on National Benzole, my Dad used to work for them when I noticed this.
Chuck
See you got your penny back!! Looking forward to you doing this pump.
Jerry
Dang that looks good. I placed my first order with print a part while ago but I'm starting very very simple .. unlike this masterpiece! :)
counter-intuitive ;D = bass ackwards :P Always wondered myself.
Parts look great Chuck!
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Thanks! Here are the major parts together. Once I stopped learning how to shatter test tubes, I finally made a good cylinder from the last remnant. Thanks again, Mark!
It just gets better and better. Very cool!
Looking good, Chuck!
Did you have to do a lot of sanding, or was the surface finish good enough?
It might just be wishful thinking, or have the quality of PAP gone up a bit lately?
Cant wait to see that pump painted and weathered!
-Haavard
Thanks Geoff!
Haavard, I did get the body sanded and primed this weekend. Seemed about the same to me. I added trouble by including the base mounting bosses and the little gussets under the cylinder pad; more stuff to sand around carefully. As you noted in your parts, some places are smoother than others especially the round parts. Oh well, it is still a good deal for me considering that I couldn't make something like this from scratch with my skills and tools. I just have to get "up" for doing the sanding and get it over with. Then the fun should kick in!
Chuck,
Your usual standard of work. Why do I have the feeling this is going to be so realistic looking.
Jerry
Those little gallon indicators are incredible!
I dont know if any other method would have worked, and sure as hell I would not have wanted to do THREE!
The surface detail on them is acceptable, I'd think some degradation would have taken place.
Looking forward to the finish.
-Marty
One negative about PAP occurs to me: Chuck is working in 1:24 scale. The resolution issues confronting him are somewhere between 2 and 4 times LESS than what we would have with a 1:48 scale part. So what is acceptable for a large scale might be unacceptable for a smaller one. So I hope you guys working in the smaller scales will keep us informed with good photos so we can see whether the technology is ready yet. -- Russ
I have a simple part being printed for 1:48 .. my 'test run' so to speak.
Chuck,
amazing work- really looking forward to seeing the painting process. Seeing your PAP parts is really mind expanding in terms of what is possible in terms of detail on a model.
Probably not much use to you as this is a semi restored version but recalled seeing a similar fuel pump in Tomales on a photographic reconnaissance trip I took a couple of years ago for a painting of the NPCRR. The filling hose and nozzle may be of use as a reference though.
Enjoy!
James
...another...
...last one.
James
Well, Ed's oven door frame was related to the Print-a-Part issues ... I'm wandering a little off topic by replying to the specifics of oven doors ... (sorry) ... but here's some oven doors I did in O scale, cast in resin. First photo shows the pattern. Second shows the door in place with extra bits. Crappy old photos before I got a decent digital camera. But, if you end up needing O scale oven doors, I probably still have a mold and/or some extra castings for these.
Cheers,
Dallas
Chuck -
You're most welcome!
How did you cut those test tubes?
mark
Quote from: marklayton on August 18, 2010, 07:38:59 PM
Chuck -
You're most welcome!
How did you cut those test tubes?
mark
Chuck, from eyedroppers to test tubes. Your on the hard stuff now. 8)
Your little gravity pump looks nice! I cut eyedropper tubes with a dremel cut-off tool because I didn't have a diamond scriber like described on your flickr page. Worked great , just had to score all the way around several times and then dremel sand square.
Philip
Thanks James for those. Don't know why, but I just like those old pumps.
Mark, it was trial and error. The glass tube scriber I got was useless. The pressure required to make a mark shattered the tube. I tried the diamond scriber, got a nice line, but the "quick snap and clean break" promised by so many internet articles didn't happen-just more shattered glass.
I finally took the last remnant and ground back most of the jagged edge with a Dremel wheel like Phillip mentions. Then I put it in a plastic vee block and carefully sanded both ends square on my disc sander. That worked very well. I think these were glass as opposed to Pyrex.
I wore safety glasses and work gloves when handling-good thing too!
In a book on WW1 trench warfare, I read about cutting glass bottles in to make candle holders and oil lamps by using a burning string and water. Tie a string around the cut line, douse it in lighter fluid, light it up and dunk in water as soon as the string burns up.
Video here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_A4J7RcdsfM
Found this on Youtube .. Cutting wine bottles (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=iv&v=sFXngPx3w3M) .. might be helpful
I read that method too Dave, but me and fire... :o
The Youtube vid is simply a light scribe and then hot water + cold water. Looks promising
Interesting Ed. So basically, score, hot water then cold water? Surprised he didn't wear gloves. The test tube has a wall thickness of about .03. i think a lot of methods I found are for thicker glass tubes.
I got the gas pump body primed and ready for final paint. First I added a number of "composite" items to the printed body. The Wayne 615 pump had an unusual "coat hook" style of nozzle hanger. Although I could have printed this piece, the .02 diameter hooks would have been lacking in strength and difficult to sand. Since I plan to hang the nozzle and likely heavy brass "hose" on this hook, I fabricated one from styrene strip and brass wires that were glued into holes drilled in the pump body. A couple of NBW castings finished it off.
The prototype outer "skins" were joined by tabs held together with screws and nuts. I printed .01 x .03 slots in the body and fitted pieces of styrene strip into them to make the tabs. Tichy rivets (as round head screws) and Grandt NBW's were then added to each side.
I also added some I.D. tags (or builders plates) to the body using Scotch tape embossed with screw heads. I removed the adhesive with paint thinner and wound up with a plate that was .001 thick. These will be painted over as seen on many older pumps thus saving me the need to figure out a way to represent the tiny embossed lettering. Sometimes the lazy man dost prosper after all (or tries too).
Finally I added some base bolts using McLeod NBW castings. I had printed holes for the stems and they pressed right in.
Oh, and a few dents!
I primed the body with some flat black spray from a can. When it fully cures I will lightly sand the sheet metal "skins" smooth but leave the texture on the cast parts.
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Chuck
Looks like you had a very good weekend.
Nice update and picture and thanks for the how to.
Jerry
I wish I had something intelligent to say other than "KOOL!" or "BITCHIN"
Oh well, as always impressed.
-Mj
Quote from: lab-dad on August 23, 2010, 09:18:38 AM
I wish I had something intelligent to say other than "KOOL!" or "BITCHIN"
Oh well, as always impressed.
-Mj
" TRIFFIC " works well , try that .
Nick
Satisfactory. But it's not done yet. -- Russ
Good Gugga Mugga!
Amazing work fabricating the little coat-hook hanger so neatly ... the thin scotch tape plates is one to file in the brain cells ... etc.
Question: How d'ya do the dents so neatly? Tricks?
Cheers,
Dallas
Thanks! Yes Jerry it was nice to do some modelling this weekend.
Dallas I just used some round and half-round Swiss files to cut the basic shape and then sanded them smooth.
"Dallas I just used some round and half-round Swiss files to cut the basic shape and then sanded them smooth."
Aw, c'mon Chuck. When are you going to admit that some of these distressed things are plain old accidents that happen to look OK and not intentional. ;)
Lookin' good btw!
Chuck, nice work ... those brass hooks are a good lesson for me, need to try harder to keep high standards at every stage .... its probably what I admire most about your work that you achieve the same level of accuracy and detail over the whole model/diorama and be able to do it over a long timescale.
I hope you will provide an in depth SBS when you get to the nozzle/trigger (some dimensions would be nice) as I have tried on several occasions to successfully model one of these and never got close to a satisfactory model.
Chuck, just remembered I had this in my files, you probable have it but if not may be useful ?
Guy's Your all forgetting that Chuck has a Real.... Visible Gas Pump.....like the one he's modeling. ;) So he's got the real thing to look at ;) and model from. Don't get no better than that. {I'm Jealous} ::) Craig
Quote from: Craig_H on August 24, 2010, 04:15:44 PM
Guy's Your all forgetting that Chuck has a Real.... Visible Gas Pump.....like the one he's modeling. ;) So he's got the real thing to look at ;) and model from. Don't get no better than that. {I'm Jealous} ::) Craig
That's ok, the gas pump pics are useful for those of us who aren't so lucky!
I painted the pump body and have begun the long and tedious chipping and rusting process. I'm afraid this pump has seen better days. The oil dispenser I did previously exhibited mostly in-service chipping; wear and tear from regular use plus a touch of surface rust. The gas pump has a little of that, but most of the chipping, (or actually flaking) seen is paint failure, along with more serious surface rusting. I suspect the pump was going downhill even before the garage closed.
I painted and chipped the pump body the same way as the oil dispenser. The rusting also uses the same sequence. I did try to preserve some of the lifted paint chips by using Dullcote and a touch of diluted white glue. We'll see if they survive further handling. I also took a small round wire wheel and pressed the edge of it into the softened paint and wiggled it in spots near the chips. Easy to overdo, but an interesting lifting texture effect.
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Right after the initial chipping.
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Some checkpics after first applications of surface rust and streaking. Lots more to do.
I was waiting for this weekend update the whole morning. Thank you very much for posting all these great progress updates! Your documentation of the work process is just as excellent as your eye for detail and your amazing craftsmanship!
Oh crap, I quit! >:(
Speechless! All of it ... especially that last photo. :o
Cheers,
Dallas
great information, I like the idea with the wire brush.
FWIW It looks a little too far gone right now, more like one found on a saltwater marine fueling location.
But what the hell do I know. May be it has been abandoned that long?.....
The labels/emblems really look good!
-Marty
The Monday morning update. Good way to start the week.
Well you have out done yourself in the creativity department once again. But we all knew it was going to be perfect anyway.
Most excellent.
Jerry
You're really starting to bug me, Doan.
Could you...like...take up Airplanes-or-Something so the
rest of us can at least THINK we're good at this?
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Quote from: Ken Hamilton on August 30, 2010, 08:41:54 AM
You're really starting to bug me, Doan.
Could you...like...take up Airplanes-or-Something so the
rest of us can at least THINK we're good at this?
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I don't care who you are. THAT'S funny!! ;D
Thanks very much! It has been nice to make some progress. Marty, one of my reference photos was a pump out in the desert! But no rust streaks on that one.
Here are the pumps that once sat in front of the old Sage Store that I have been using for inspiration on this project:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/matt_bruensteiner/2571470237/
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I also printed some new gallon markers on the mounting rod. I originally thought it would be too fragile, but hopefully it will work and speed things up. I was not looking forward to gluing 30 of those suckers! And then get them sealed in the cylinder only to have one fall off. Fingers crossed.
Ho-hum. How boring. We've seen it all before. What can you do that's NEW? -- ssuR
P.S.: Please send hi-res shots of your progress to my personal e-mail and I'll update the article. You may actually finish work on the pump (or almost finish) by the time I get to page layout.
Yes, folks, watch the upcoming Modelers' Annual for future developments.
Chuck,
Given the state of the pump base, I almost reckon you need to sift through the rubbish bin to find a few of the test tube glass pieces that broke when you were trying to cut them. The old glass bowl on a disussed pump is bound to have had a small rock, or even a bullet, put through it by now. The complete glass bowl might lookout of place along side every other broken window pane, split board and rusty streak that surrounds it.
Maybe as another test for you...glass bowl with a crack, but repaired with a bit of old rag and wrapped in wire!
Cheers,
Dan Pickard
I see the giant penny has returned... ;)
I can't accuse you of stealing this one out of my backyard Chuck... I've never owned an old gas pump. Certainly is more of the outstanding work we've come to expect from you. Gorgeous....
Paul
Incredible work! Darn near indistinguishable from the pic of the "real thing".
Thanks guys! I know what you mean Dan, but after the effort to get one good cylinder I'm leery about trying anything. I didn't get enough recognizable broken bits anyway! Fortunately many (like at the Sage Store) survived years at the side of the road intact. If the cylinder inside details go badly I can always wrap it in expanded mesh screen like many were in later years.
I always admire and seldom comment, Chuck. The paint on this pump - and again, the texture effect on the rusty parts in particular - are something wonderful to watch.
Thanks Frederic! This is a good scale for texturizing. I color sanded the white bits a little smoother, and now back to rusting. Both the Gwosh (sponged on) and pigment powders can leave a nice rusty texture. I just hope the lifted flakes survive, 'cause I like em!
Yes, they are certainly one of the more delicate elements to keep as you wish.
Chuck, I wanted to ask how you got the rusty texture that looks like pitted metal? But i believe you answered it?........Gwosh {sponged on} and pigment powders to get this type of look on metal or iron?? Do you sprinkle the powers on when the paint is wet...or do you use mig pigment fixer after use of the powder's. Craig
Hi Craig,
Some is the texture from the spray can black undercoat. When you dab the Gwosh on with a fine cosmetic sponge, it also leaves a bumpy texture. This can be controlled by how thin the Gwosh is-straight out of the tube or mixed with a bit of water. I usually seal the Gwosh with Dullcoat spray. I apply the powders dry with a sponge or an artist stump. I usually do this last and without a sealer because it tends to lessen the powder presence.
I haven't tried the Mig pigments or fixer yet...could be worth some tests.
Thanks Chuck :D The rust effect looks good it looks like pitted metal.....here's a pic of a pumps weathered paint......and a glass cylinder to give you the color of the glass as it ages......they could clean the outside but couldn't get to the inside to clean so most of them looked like this after years of service. Plus alot of cylinder's were tinted blue from the factory. The last pic is of a real scummy one i found in my files :o Craig
Thanks for those Craig! I have to choose between a typical dirty frosted cylinder and hiding all the detail in there >:(
Got a little more done. Added the fill and overflow pipes. Used aluminum tube and rod.
• Etched in Ferric Chloride
• Rinsed and Dulcoated
• Dusted with grey and white pigment powders
• Spritzed with Dullcote spray from a distance to mottle the finish.
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Also did a quick "see what its going to look like" pic on the diorama:
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Still working on the rust. Streaks are a pain.
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I think it looked good ... but I'm still feeling around on the floor for my eyes after my head exploded. :o
Thanks a lot! >:( :P 8)
Dallas
Dallas: LOL! I think that image sums up my response as well.
So that's the best you could do over Labor Day weekend. Now my head really hurts just thinking of you and your rust streaks. Just how good are those about as good as it gets!!!
A Gas Pump that is becoming a thing of beauty.
Jerry
What you hear is the sound of one hand clapping. The other is typing this. -- Russ
I've been watching this topic for about a month now and love it. So much to learn from here. Great work!
There is just no end to the great stuff coming from Mr. Doan (thank God)
There's really nothing I can add to what has already been expressed here by everyone else Chuck.... simply outstanding.
Paul
I felt like leaving the post blank and signing my name. I do not know what to say. The perfection of finishing. Thanks for sharing all this Chuck.
John
just "spiffy"!
Really like the texture & finish on the pipes.
On the rust streaks; have you tried using artist oils? I put a small dab at the bottom where I want the streak to start then using another brush with just a little thinner on it drag it through the spot. I find doing this w/ the oils is very controllable.
-Marty
Thanks all! It's turning out to be a fun sub project.
Thanks for the idea, Marty. I'm worried about using the thinner for the oils. The exposed chips are enamel, and the white is acrylic with a Lacquer overcoat. Not sure what thinner would do, :o and I'm not much of a gambler.
Got some branding done though. An N scale Microscale signpost decal is a perfect 12" wide in my scale.
I'll try for better pics this weekend (sans effects), if the decal is still stuck.
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Chuck, The mobil sign is looking good ;) Craig
Chuck: I had an enamel issue with chips on my motel sign. I'm not used to using them and I basecoated it with Color Place flat black spraypaint from Walmart. Under $1 a can and goes on great! I applied a Mig Filter over my post-hairspray chipped finish and their harsh thinner started to eat away the basecoat. I almost had to restart the painting, but caught it quick enough that I was able to clean up the mess.
What I did find that works though for thinning oils over that spraypaint is Weber Odorless Turpenoid (hereby known as OT). (blue can from Michaels) I sprayed some scrap with just the black spraypaint, let it cure 24 hours and started scrubbing it with pure OT and a toothbrush. I scrubbed for about a minute before a ever-so-slight tackiness began. And even with a wash of the stuff left to sit or working with a soft brush there was no issues.
Give that stuff a shot on scrap of course and see if that works for you. My usual mineral spirits and the Mig thinners and wash/filter products (that use their thinner) are too harsh.
Thanks Craig!
Thanks Micheal, I will look into that stuff. How long do the oils take to dry?
Sorry, did not realise about the thinner issues.
I usually leave the oils for very near the end, but in a day or two they seem dry (I never tried to touch them).
supposedly they take a long time to dry, but I never use that much.
Decal is kickin' what you do to it?
I want to try air erasing one....
-Marty
No Prob! The dry time usually depends on the thickness of the oils. If you're painting figures for example with straight oils then the dry time can be days to a week depending on heat and humidity. For what we do weathering wise, a day or two is usually sufficient. They'll feel dry after a few hours, but can still be worked with thinners until completely dry which is why one would have to wait a few.
Thanks for the info, guys. I have it bolted it to a flat plate for now, so I should be able to keep my mitts off it. Maybe a trip to Michaels tonite!
Marty, the decal process:
Draw cracks with pencil onto decal
cut cracks with sharp xacto but leave some attached-dont cut the full crack to help keep it together.
sand with 1200 grit (dry of course) to fade, soda blast on low PSI should work too
cut out and apply a few coats of Dullcote spray
wet and apply
wonder what the hell you were thinking of all these fricken pieces goin everywhere!
settle and smooth out with damp brush, toothpick, some cursing
use a touch of setting solution.
remember this is supposed to be fun!
Sounds like that decal was a real pain, but the results sure paid off!
Thanks Ray! Here's a sunshine shot of the decal:
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Small progress this weekend. Rusting and streaking continues, but it is finally starting to abate. I started the drain back pipe on the side. This was used to drain the gas from the glass cylinder using the hose. A composite of brass tubing, a brass elbow casting and scary-delicate printed cap parts. The pump handle mount was also installed, made from brass wire and Plastruct hex stock. Ready for painting.
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Holy Crap. That's perfect.
what he said!
Glad to see you using all sorts of parts, not just the PAP stuff.
Decal looks better than excellent.
-Mj
MIND-BOGGLING!!!
Chuck, I really like the way the pump is coming along ;) Here's some suggestions i got kicking around in the old melon :D about how to paint or color the drain back pipe. You can paint the pipe the same color as the pump from the cap down as this would be right !! then another way would be galvanized pipe from the cap down. [see picture] and a nice old rustie lock would look good locking the CAP. On the pump handle i was trying to find some pictures to see if it had any wood on the top of the handle on each side of the cast handle top....but couldnt come up with anything :-\ if that style of pump would have wood on the handle or not. Notice the color of the part were the handle goes to. Craig
Thanks All! Thanks for that Wayne pic Craig! Good ideas; I'm pretty sure I will try for some galvy grey poking thru. All the 615 pics I have show an all metal handle. I did a greyish pump mount with some old white. I would like to do a pump in that mega rusty condition too.
Chuck, you have lost your cotton pickin' mind! (A good thing.) -- Russ
I think I should say something, but
but
but
...whatever.
IT'S ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL!
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OK, I'm looking at the photo from Craig and Chuck's pump and ... well, sorry Craig, Chuck's looks more real.
Chuck,
You know, I have been looking at your modeling work in Russ's magazines for a few years and enjoying the build logs here on the site for the last year or so and I really can't say anything that would be new, different, or original, about your model work.
Every time I see a new post by you I quickly check it out and just sit and shake my head and think
"so that is how Michelangelo did it"
Thank you for sharing your rare talent.
Rick
Thank you very much! I think our toys would amuse Mr. Angelo.
Quote from: Chuck Doan on September 22, 2010, 07:23:26 AM
Thank you very much! I think our toys would amuse Mr. Angelo.
Or in your case vice versa!!!
Jerry
I really love this overall piece and the tips you're giving. You're one of those people that I love to follow as it gives me something to strive for and work towards as well as learn from. Keep the updates coming!
Painted drain back pipe in white over galvanized. Used same technique as the filler pipe I did a while back. Did the rusty cap and pipe threads as seen on real ones.
Testors Flat Black from the can
Then thinned Polly Scale L and N Grey
Hairspray then Dullcoat sealer
Polly Scale White brushed on
Chipped
Gwosh touch ups on exposed grey portions and gwosh rust
Will do the usual touchups when I install it.
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Awesome Chuck, as always! It's a work of art!
Franck
I'm glad you have found a little time on weekends to keep working on this project. It is adequate. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on September 27, 2010, 01:52:27 PM
I'm glad you have found a little time on weekends to keep working on this project. It is adequate. -- Russ
Geez Chuck!!! I thought it was a lot better then adequate. --Russ.
Personally I think it's just another outstanding step toward finishing the pump. But I guess Russ would have done this in paper, I'll join Nick. ;D
Jerry
Absolutely flawless, in the sense that every real flaw is perfectly portrayed with utmost realism!
perfect! ;D
Thanks! But.
After a break I came back to my gas pump project and decided I was not happy with the direction it was going. I had made some mistakes that kept bugging me, so like Paul and his Coke cooler I opted for a do-over. This time I was able to get some crackle in the paint, even though I used the exact same process as before. The only difference is the day was cold when I painted, but I don't know if that is the reason. The paint is still mostly failing in nature, but I have done less severe chipping and cut way back on the surface rusting.
I scanned a real Contains Lead sign and printed a homemade decal. This is one time the thick white paper worked out; in fact it is the exact correct thickness. I used Tichy rivets to simulate round head screws. The .020 size was a bit too big, so I sliced off thinner heads. I had to cut about ten before I got four that matched, and I epoxyed them onto the previously applied decal.
There is still the inevitable touch-uping to do, but hopefully the second time will be the charm and I can make some forward progress now.
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It was wonderful. It is wonderful. It will be wonderful.
HOLY CRAP!!! ;D
Yeah.....this pump's better. That last one was pretty bad.
I agree with , Ken . The last one was dreadful and this one is only marginally better . I think it would benefit from a bit more time being spent on it and not being rushed !
Oh , if only my modelling was this bad , I'd be a happy chappy ,
Nick
You know Chuck.....third times a charm!.... ;)
-Mj
Chuck, don't you ever get tired of surpassing yourself? -- Russ
This is over the top! Who is even close? ??? Magnificent ;D
Anders
That does it!...I quit!
Marc
Marc, I agree .. it IS rather depressing .. :-[
Is this the best you can do??
This is were excellent means excellent!!!!!!!!!!
Jerry
Quote from: marc_reusser on November 01, 2010, 02:23:09 PM
That does it!...I quit!
Marc
Marc ,
If you're quitting can I have your Fantastical Fish ?
Nick
And Marc, I still am still lusting after your O scale box springs.
Chuck, I still remember the first time I saw your O scale engine house. My buddies and I drooled all over the photos.
The amazing fact is that your work continues to improve all the time.
Thanks for sharing.
Perfectionism is indeed a curse, but the results are always worth it. Thanks for this Chuck... it's brilliant.
Pual
I repeat myself, but who cares.
This is the gold standard of scale modelling.
-Regards, Haavard
Thanks very much! Hope I don't mess it up again.
Quote from: Malachi Constant on September 07, 2010, 09:02:22 AM
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bouldervalleymodels.com%2Fimages%2Ffsrr%2Fhead-explode.jpg&hash=8d1a85246d6b54f4022d739098bb2f2cf33bdd27)
I think it looked good ... but I'm still feeling around on the floor for my eyes after my head exploded. :o
Thanks a lot! >:( :P 8)
Dallas
After reading this thread over the past two evenings, I am sitting here amazed. I can't say anything that hasn't already been said, but Dallas came closest to expressing my reaction to this modeling epiphany. Wondering if I should take up basket weaving...or maybe crochet...I am getting crochety already, does that help?
Chuck, you may be interested in this , posted by a fellow forum member on the MIG board
http://www.migproductionsforums.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=8513&start=0
Funny how things spread. I saw that on yet another forum yesterday, and I have some of it on order! Looks very interesting. Thanks for the heads up!
That does look interesting... I noticed in the thread that Virgil says he found it at Michaels. May have to have a look next time I'm near a Michaels.
Paul
It's amazing that the paint will craze so finely . . . gonna have to look for that stuff.
Wonder if a dead-flat overcoat would help replicate the chalkiness of crackled paint? Or does it even need it?
Good luck with Michaels. I have a large store near me and they had never heard of it. I ordered some from Amazon.
I have seen both flat and sheeney paint that has crackled.
I like the effect of that crackled paint :) It looks very promising, ill check my local Michaels and see if they have it? Craig H
I went by Michaels yesterday on the way to my sister's. We were going out to eat (Applebees Veterans Day meal thing). I looked around the section with the paints and as Chuck said .. no luck. Later, after a fine meal we stopped by Michaels again. My niece was looking for some scrabooking stuff so I showed her where it was in the store. I wandered over to the next aisle where the stamping materials were .. and .. WOAH .. what do you know! Found the Distressed Crackle Paint. Seems that it is part of a stamp pad art thingie .. go figure.
At my local Michaels, the crackle materials are located in with the 2 ounce bottles of acrylic paints like Cacker Barrel, Ceramcoat and Americana. They are located at the top of each rack.
I used to make my flat Testor's paints "crackle" by flowing on a coat of acetone after the enamels had dried.
This worked good on plastic.
Lowes and Home Depot carry large bottles of crackling materials.
Went to Michaels tonight....they carried the Ranger brand was only able to get 1 bottle White-picket fence, the other 2 colors ...old paper...frayed burlap...didn't carry....asked if they could order the 2 colors i wanted?? said NO?? [how's that for customer service] ill call another michaels and see if they have the colors. Craig
Craig,
Your Michaels sounds every bit as friendly and helpful as mine. Sorry.
I joined this discussion late and misunderstood what you were looking for at Michaels.
The items I was suggeting were either Crackle by Delta Ceramcot or Weather Wood Crackling Medium by DecoArt.
Both come in 2 oz bottles.
For crackled paint on metal or plastic, paint on your base color of, let's say Rust. Let dry.
Brush on a coat of the crackling medium and let dry.
Follow up with a coat of your top color, let's say White, and let dry.
As your top coat dries it cracks and breaks up.
Darryl, I know there's other brands of crackle paint out there... but this is the best i seen as far as looking very believable so the Ranger brand is what i was after ;) Craig
If you ever need to order any painting supplies online I recommend www.dickblick.com.
I order quite a bit of stuff through them.
I don't know if they carry the Ranger item.
Hi Guys,
Been following along here and it sounded interesting so I went by the local Michaels and found the Ranger product Distress Crackle Paint. They had it in about eight different colors. I picked up; Picket Fence (white), Black Soot, Peeled Paint (green), and Tarnished Brass a metallic color.
I tried the four colors on small pieces of Styrene scribed siding. The "paint" is very thick and difficult to spread evenly on the Styrene. After it dried there was a small amount of "crackle" and I could wipe the paint right off the Styrene with very little pressure of my bare thumb. The only one that gave a satisfactory finish on the Styrene was the Tarnished Brass It did not "crackle" but it adheared to the plastic and didn't wipe off.
I'm sure these may give more satisfactory results on other material like paper or wood but bare styrene and probably bare metal seem to be out. I'm going to run some further test pieces of primed Styrene, metal, etc. as well as wood and paper.
I will try to do a little research on this product but does anyone know; what do you thin this with, or can you? Can you use some other brush, besides the tree stump that comes in the bottle, and what would you clean it with.
This product may have great potential but so far it hasn't shown me jack.
Later
Rick
Rick, On the mig forum he use's water to thin the paint... Craig
Hello, and I hope I am not joining the conversation too late.
For all those of you who are guessing other crackle paint products will work, I have to say negatory.
Nope, it's not the same. Trust me I've been at this for almost three years.
By chance I stumbled upon the TIM HOLTZ (RANGER INC) DISTRESS CRACKLE PAINT, which comes in 3 metallic colors, and 24 basic colors, five of them very friendly in terms of our uses concerning slats and planks . . .
No other crackle paint is going to give you such minute cracking. As a matter of fact, my interest in this involved my search for a product that would reproduce the surface of the Salt Flats at Bonneville.
I don't know how many Michaels carry this stuff, but you might want to save yourself the trip and the heartache and simply order everything through AMAZON.COM. I put in order in for all the colors. Why fools around, right?
Anyway, if you have any other questions, I hope we can answer them.
Also, I would like to do some experiments airbrushing the stuff.
Oh, one more thing. Those of you who already have a samply you might be surprised when you open the bottle and find that the paint is really goopy, not syruppy like normal paint.
You can thin this paint down with water. When you apply it, make sure you apply it with a sponge so that it gives you volume and texture at the same time.
Give it a try. I hope you get mind-blowing results the first time around.
Here's a picture of my second try . . .
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages54.fotki.com%2Fv459%2Fphotos%2F4%2F684514%2F9237868%2FIMG_4223-vi.jpg&hash=82036a8cc9adf9940023dcaab9b920aae775e403)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages107.fotki.com%2Fv70%2Fphotos%2F4%2F684514%2F9237868%2F020-vi.jpg&hash=09bb9619c980df145fd0f47a76c6142e32bed1e3)
Chuck, sorry about this, I didn't mean to commandeer your thread . . . .
Another thing, my friends, this crackle paint gives such fine small cracks, but if you put a little thickness in spots, the paint actually rises and looks like it's going to fleck off . . .
Again, I hope you all experiment with this exciting new find, and please please PLEASE post your results--that means you too Chuck D. and Marc R.
And the ever-silent Ken Hamilton!
And no, I don't own stock in Ranger Inc. Not yet anyway! ;D
I got some coming Virgil! That looks promising, I have a project in mind already.
In other news, I installed the gallon indicators on the gas pump:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv1621%2Fphotos%2F7%2F777399%2F2992336%2FDSCF9553-vi.jpg&hash=43c4350c2efa66a34af52fb6bf905f2afb6179d5)
Each one was printed with a groove in the back of the vertical post. I glued in a .015 brass wire to keep them straight. Not a 100 percent protototype, but they wouldn't have worked otherwise. Ready for the cylinder and cap.
Beautiful, Chuck . . . you are getting closer to finishing it.
Chuck,
Looking so good. Can't wait to see the rest of it finished.
Jerry
You seem gradually to be getting the hang of this modeling stuff. -- ssuR
Chuck, Im looking forward to see how your going to weather? or color? the glass cylinder ;) as you know most had a light blue tint or are you just going to leave it clear. Craig
Chuck, that's just the best. I'm not terribly experienced with these but the ones I've seen in real life have an almost pink color in the glass.
Thanks! I'm currently testing ideas for the glass. I have many pics of old cylinders to try to copy. I'll probably stay with clear as I'm not sure how color tinting might come out. I do know it will be filthified a bit!
If you absolutely decided you wanted to tint the glass, you could probably try using a one of Tamiya's 'clear' colors, that was heavily diluted/mixed with their gloss clear, and then thinned and shot through the AB.
Marc
I recently had a project where I wanted to tint my tail lights and I used red ink and "Future" polish, I mixed up the color and the future and then dipped my lenses into the mixture and let them sit, then I carefully pulled them out and let them drain and dry, I did it a few times to get a deeper color. Now they had ridges to catch color and it made it easier to get depth. So on your "glass"? I am not to sure if there's anything to catch the color? But this worked for me. Just a thought
Gil
So , I'm in the computer room , looking at this thread .
My dear wife is in another room , quietly reading her favourite book on the Queen Mum ( British Royalty ...not somebody from South Beach ;D )
Suddenly she jumps as she hears " Holy Crap , look at that ....what a model ...what weathering ...look at the detail ...I don't believe it , it HAS to be a real building .....no way .....are you kidding me ? "
My Wife - " Teejay , are you looking at Red Oak Garage again ?"
Me - Uh , No , hon .
My Wife - " Every time you look at Red Oak you yell and scare the hell out of the dog "
Me - I tell you I'm not looking at Red Oak
My Wife - " That's what you said last time ...poor Darla was shaking for an hour "
Me- I'm telling you it's NOT Red Oak Garage .....this time . ::)
T
Here is an example of the un-thinned/diluted Tamiya Clear red, on a piece of slide cover glass. was applied with a brush on the inside surface of the glass.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rbadesign.net%2FTERRAPIN%2FReusser%2FMR_135Caboose%2FMR_CB_Lantern3.jpg&hash=9ce406957b3307037fa2a2a6cd61ec303759309f)
M
Satisfactory. -- Russ
Thanks Marc and Gil. Thanks Terry! Someday I hope to get back to this.
I stole an hour and glued the glass cylinder in place. Used highly sofisticated tooling to insure everything was straight....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages54.fotki.com%2Fv451%2Fphotos%2F7%2F777399%2F2992336%2FDSCF9816-vi.jpg&hash=94bea04d61a8fe1c46362d751123d8eec02529ae)
Incredible Chuck! Can´t wait to mess up my 1/87 version for Krakow.
Anders ;D
These are the things that ruin my day. I was just all excited about Anders' auto shop and then Mr.Doan comes along, casually slapping a new picture of his incredible work in our faces. And raising the bar further...
Chuck, I see you didn't weather the glass to much.......i was hopeing for more Gunk and Dirt.... like the one in this picture
My concept of highly sophisticated tooling is Lego blocks.
Find another hour and work on it more. -- Russ
Ah ha... the secret is revealed in the highly sophisticated tooling... ;)
Paul
Chuck,
the pump looks fantastic- just not sure about the weathering on those engineer's squares! ;)
James
Chuck, I hate you. When I didn't know your work, I quietly modelled some decent mountains and a pleasant railroad crossing them to bring ore and logs to people in the valley.
And now, I'm always wondering what new desire you're going to create with your insanely realistic models. It's very very bad from you, because if there are people who say they will go back to their toy soldiers, others are motivated to try to approach what you do.
Very, very bad.
But please, don't stop.
I couldn't agree more.
Now, about those guys and their toy soldiers, that is not just humor. More than a few people have told me they don't like or read the Annuals because they find the books intimidating; they could never aspire to such modeling so why look at it?
Why doesn't such a person just wear a T-shirt that says "I lack confidence, am lazy, and a loser"? Yet that same guy will open Playboy and drool over women who would never so much as give him a glance. At least, with model building, he has a chance!
Fortunately, what intimidates the masses also may inspire the few. I hope Chuck and the rest of you continue to intimidate forever!
Russ
Russ ,
What you need are some articles by modellers who aren't very good .
Just putting the finishing touches to my article for you as we speak ,
Nick
Russ,
Thats one of the best observations of your annual's I've heard in a long time! ;D
I can understand why some modellers would be a bit too intimidated to contribute to this forum, but that's a poor reason to avoid looking at the inspiring content of the annuals.
Chuck,
You know I'd expect no less an effort from you. Its always a bit of a reality check to see a piece of your work in amongst some 1:1 items, to give a true sense of scale (or are they just really massive squares from the same guy that sold you the huge novelty quarter?).
Cheers,
Dan
We need more contributions by modelers with Nick's level of mediocrity! -- Russ
Russ,
don't give him such stimulating idea's. Going on like that and he feel himself too good to help me or Marcel during exhibitions.
Jacq
Quote from: Chuck Doan on December 09, 2010, 09:40:28 AM
I stole an hour and glued the glass cylinder in place. Used highly sofisticated tooling to insure everything was straight....
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages54.fotki.com%2Fv451%2Fphotos%2F7%2F777399%2F2992336%2FDSCF9816-vi.jpg&hash=94bea04d61a8fe1c46362d751123d8eec02529ae)
Isn't modern technology wonderful!!!
Jerry
Thanks! Russ I agree with Dan, that is a great comparison! I also vow to take better care of my squares James, all I need is a ladder.
Well, I took a day off this weekend and did some modeling. Let the toilet run, leave the leaves in the gutters, and ignore the leaky roof (I mean it ain't rainin' today!)
Instead I got the tie rods attached around the cylinder on my pump. Made from .015 brass wire, blackened, hairsprayed, Dullcoted and brush painted with thinned Polly Scale. Chipped and installed and the rusting just begun. I clopped its (unfinished) little domed hat on and took it out in the sun for some quick checkpics:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv62%2Fphotos%2F7%2F777399%2F2992336%2Fweg-vi.jpg&hash=177cbb2e39af0f00228b2227a5e05980757f2f00)
Couldn't resist an "artsy" shot:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages16.fotki.com%2Fv272%2Fphotos%2F7%2F777399%2F2992336%2FDSCF0021-vi.jpg&hash=6a02a6f03a5a30324a6c8b471bb696b67d48d673)
Craig, the glass is somewhat dirty; I couldn't bring myself to hide all of the interior detail.
Peace, Fredric! ;D
Very nice!! That cracked paint looks great!!
Chuck, I like it ;D I kind of figured you didn't want to dirty up the glass to bad and hide the details.....the one in the picture i posted was real dirty :o Are you going to do lenses for the metal globe?? If you do a little Tip....they were not flat....but you probably new that. Craig
Chuck,
Please remove that sign from the side of the pump...its false advertising.
As far as I was aware, it was made from some sort of PAP polymer resin sort of plastic material...not lead ;)
Dan
Thanks! The cracked paint was just happenstance. I have tried and failed many more times than successes.
Craig, the lenses will be long gone-seems more forlorn that way. And much easier for me!
Dan, I am sure there is something harmful in there somewhere. California will probably ban it.
Still needs the hose outlet, hose and nozzle, as well as the pump handle and price box. Should be finished by June (year unspecified)!
I like the artsy shot. And it shows off the detail really well. -- Russ
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.earthlink.net%2F%7Erbadesign%2FClapping.gif&hash=31a696c76b393b5c52dcbb9165a1676024a5af62)
Thanks Russ and maybe Marc. At that point in the movie, he was clapping for someone who was awful. :-\ ;D
Beautiful! That "arty" shot is great, no way to tell it's a model.
Chuck
It just gets better with every post. Hopefully it will be this june. The leaves can wait!!! :D
Jerry
WOW.... just gets better every time. Love the "arty" shot... course you realize if you leave the glass off the top sign, you're going to have to put a broken bulb in there... ;)
Paul
Chuck, Paul is right .....you got to put a socket and a light bulb broken in that Globe Holder ;)
Yeah, bulb, socket and a big shard of the broken globe still in place. Anything less is cheating ;D
Dave
Quote from: Chuck Doan on December 13, 2010, 07:12:02 AM
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv62%2Fphotos%2F7%2F777399%2F2992336%2Fweg-vi.jpg&hash=177cbb2e39af0f00228b2227a5e05980757f2f00)
Maybe it's just me and/or my faulty eyes ... but the dome over the glass cylinder looks whiter than everything else. Actually, it looks like a "cooler" white compared to the (seemingly) warmer white on all the other parts. Nitpicking perfection here, but something about that dome cap just sticks out a little in a slightly odd way. Can't quite put my finger on what it is .... just mentioning FWIW, if anything. Not sure.
(And, yes, it's still a pipe dream to get anywhere near this level on my own stuff. Really amazing.)
Cheers,
Dallas
Quote from: Malachi Constant on December 14, 2010, 08:30:48 AMsomething about that dome cap just sticks out a little in a slightly odd way.
The cap doesn't have the brown rust and streaks like the bottom so it has a cooler look to it.
-
Thanks!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages116.fotki.com%2Fv715%2Fphotos%2F7%2F777399%2F2992336%2F4875814948_45ed5063c9_b-vi.jpg&hash=7d6ee8eb3434a14c8ec146db4d03ffcc314492e7)
On this model pump, the bulb was horizontal under the cap so it lit the gas and the globe. Not too visible.
I did write that the dome was unfinished... ::) ;D I still need to rust it up. I was just impatient to see what it all looked like.
Quote from: Chuck Doan on December 14, 2010, 09:25:48 AM
I did write that the dome was unfinished... ::) ;D
Oh crap, don't tell me that this stuff now requires actual reading & comprehension! I was having so much fun just looking at the pictures. ??? :P
QuoteI still need to rust it up. I was just impatient to see what it all looked like.
Well then, that all makes sense ... and, in the words of Emily Latella ... never mind! ;)
(With my failure to read and/or comprehend, it actually looked like you missed something. Couldn't believe that would happen. Glad it didn't ... would hate to see you start slipping at this point.) ;D
Cheers,
Dallas
Boy there's an name from the past!
I don't have time to read either Dallas!
Good eye, Tim! I was so dazzled by the overall appearance I never stopped to note inconsistencies. Besides, Chuck always ties everything together to perfection. -- Russ
I only wish my finished looked as good as Chuck's unfinished. But then I know that's been said (and thought) before here.
Chuck, The Wayne 615 pump your modeling does only have one light ??? I thought that wasn't right....it didn't make sense to me that was the only light to light up the glass cylinder and the Gas Globe too?? That globe sits way above that light.....couldn't of lit that globe up to much :( Being the globe is just sitting there Empty with no lens... no bulb socket.... to me it just doesn't look right...sitting up there bare.....[just a suggestion].... leave it of and put a old coffee can in its place with a rock on top of the can... :) i bought plenty of old farmers pumps... that there was no globe on them but the farmer had a old coffee can over the hole with a rock on it.... to keep out the rain.
Thanks Chester!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages35.fotki.com%2Fv1153%2Fphotos%2F7%2F777399%2F2992336%2Fwayne-vi.jpg&hash=091714cd521cb74d25030befbf70175c7026eb00)
Here's part of the plan I was using. My GB T-176 at home has the same setup and it lit the globe fine. I have seen other pumps with a socket up inside the globe though.
Since this plan shows the little beanie cap, I'm wondering if there was a different setup for the Wayne if there was a globe? Hmmm.
Anyway, the coffee can idea is great, but I have already glued the globe holder to the dome. :(
I finished the price box for my pump. These displayed the price per gallon on a card inside a metal frame with glass sides. At the bottom are the words "Plus 5 cents tax". On the right is a listing of the price (tax included) for one thru 15 gallons to help the math challenged. I'm not sure how they handled fractions of gallons. Each time the price changed, a new card would be required, though I'm sure they wouldn't have changed them 3-4 times a day like now.
I 3D printed the basic frame and then added facia strips from .003 Mylar drafting film so the edges around the glass would be thin. A styrene cap and Grandt Line NBW finished the box. The price card was copied from the internet and inkjet printed to scale. I faded and water stained it with Gwosh and Silverwood stain, using prototype photos as reference. I slipped it in behind a piece of .006 thick cover slide glass and installed a .005 styrene back plate to hold it in. I didn't intend to break the glass, but as I installed the back plate I heard the familiar tink of tiny glass breaking. Oh well. The box was painted and chipped the same as the rest of the pump. I slid it over one of the tie rods and glued it a tad askew.
Final rusting continues on the rest of the pump.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages43.fotki.com%2Fv504%2Fphotos%2F7%2F777399%2F2992336%2Fpricebox-vi.jpg&hash=8bb8b9a422c9d763291054e1855d3fa527617263)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages54.fotki.com%2Fv461%2Fphotos%2F7%2F777399%2F2992336%2FDSCF0169-vi.jpg&hash=a22f72700eceda367513f30b851abbdb9b0c9313)
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Coming along nicely, great work. This is becoming reference material.
Jacq
Chuck, Nice job on the price box ;)
So did you do any modeling over the Christmas break? -- ssuR
Looks like you were busy during the rain storms!!! Excellent.
Jerry
Not too shabby, but I am sorry you broke the glass.
I would re-do the whole sign and start over.
All kidding aside, a really educational thread.
-Marty
When do we get to see the whole diorama together?
Please?
Please?
Please?
;D
Cool. Did you do the price card from memory or were you able to find good reference pics?
Shazam! Every little thing .... and all so neatly done. Glad to see the cap matches the rest of the pump now too! ;)
Cheers,
Dallas
Amazing. Again.
Thanks! Ray, Google gas pump price (or pricer) box and do an image search. Not a lot of results, but some typical versions will come up.
I am also a member of the Oldgas forum where I found the price card image. Ebay has also been a big help for nice photos of individual parts. I became sentient in the 60's, so I missed the visible pump era and have no idea why I like them. Probably a past life thing.
Ian, I am also impatient to see the pump installed, but I dare not unscrew it from its handling base until I'm ready to fasten it down. I am too clumsy and this is too top heavy to be trusted loose!
You are not clumsy. That would be virtually impossible. I am clumsy. -- Russ
Ok Chuck, Im going to put you on the spot?? Will the diorama be finished buy Jan 2013 ???
Very inspiring!
I hope so Craig!
I got a fair bit along on my pump this weekend, but the only thing I was able to document before the rain was the outlet pipe for the pump. I copied the "dry hose" version that had a valve at the top of the hose, allowing it to be drained. I thought it was more interesting than just an ordinary elbow. I found some great photos of a Wayne pump cylinder base for sale on Ebay that clearly showed the valve and actuating handle details. I 3D printed the valve and elbow together, and the handle as a separate piece. The outlet pipe is aluminum tube and I used a brass wire insert to strengthen the assembly, and another wire to mount the handle. I painted and chipped the assembly the same as the other parts using a grey "galvanized" undercoat for the valve parts.
I also finished the pump handle and continued more of the final rusting. Pretty much all that's left is the hose and nozzle which should be here from PAP this week.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages17.fotki.com%2Fv62%2Fphotos%2F7%2F777399%2F2992336%2F5319761921_b511abd2a1-vi.jpg&hash=8e950641975451c167f727d1a36aaa78a44926e3)
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The obligatory giant hand photo for size comparison. It's 5 inches tall over the globe ring.
NO TOUCHING!!! >:(
WHAT DO YOU DO HOLD YOUR BREATH WHEN YOUR THAT CLOSE TO THE SUBJECT MATTER!!!!
A MASTER'S HAND.
Jerry
No kidding, Marty. I have had that happen and seen it happen in contests where someone just picks up a model to look at it, turn it over, etc. >:(
Thanks Jerry, yes, it was cold that day, had to keep from shakin'...I dread someone grabbing the pump handle to see if it works. :o
:o Your the King!...... King of modeling!
We should be buying gas from your station!
Thanks Phil, though I won't be chargin' those prices!
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Washed out photo, but I was lucky to get a hint of sun. Got the hat and pump handle glued on. Just needs the nozzle n hose.
Stunning work Chuck. There a quite a few people who can make a model, but transcending the model world to achieve total believability is a rare gift!
I think it's your eye for color and texture that makes the difference.
What Erik said....
This is a masterpiece. Absolutely nothing gives it away as a miniature.
Awesome Chuck! As always ;) :P
Franck
Is this the best work so far by Mr. Wizard? Impossible to rate as everything from The Doane Valley Shops and up to the present work is just SUPERB ! ;D
It's pretty scary when you can't tell a model from the real thing.
Would this be "BEST IN SHOW" no they would have to make a new category for Mr. Doan's work!!!!
Jerry
Thanks very much! Apparently my profile was hacked and wizardry was bestowed. ::)
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain! He's just weathering the control center to make it look more realistic .... ;)
PS -- Hope they gave you a nice hat to go with the new title!
Cheers,
Dallas
Quote from: Malachi Constant on January 11, 2011, 09:33:05 AM
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain!
That's what I was taught! Smoke and mirrors, bluster and bull. I didn't even get a wand. :'(
Quote from: Chuck Doan on January 10, 2011, 11:26:39 AM
Thanks Phil, though I won't be chargin' those prices!
I guess not, someone stole your hose ;D
looks like you got er whipped!
Every time I look at that gas pump, I have a hard time making myself believe it's only about 3.5" tall.
I really don't see what all the fuss is about. This is simply another ho-hum unit Chuck popped out over the weekend, typical of his shoot-from-the-hip approach to the hobby. His paint jobs don't even stand up to the weather; look at all those peels and rust. Please don't encourage him. -- ssuR
I agree, Russ. I am going to slow down and try to do better.
I am finding that I enjoy taking pictures of my models almost as much as building them. Here is an artsy shot from "Sun"day:
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Rusting is pert near done. It's very tedious, so I have been doing it over many sessions.
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Chuck, I really like your artsy SHOT ;) ;D
Thanks Craig!
This one is a little more artified. Shows more of the garage.
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The lighting and composition also are better. That is a nice photo. -- Russ
Hey Chuck
Beautiful pic....I feel like I've passed by that place in my travels in Maine as a boy.
Kevin
Chuck
Great picture, and for sure it does look like a old run down station along the roads of upstate Pa. or NY..
Jerry
Great pic, looks absolutely like the "real thing".
Thanks! It's hard to get an angle that doesn't include the roofs across from me.
A quick test shot on the dio:
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Simply outstanding Chuck! :o
Anders ;D
Very nice Chuck. All around perfection.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
I just saw Anders update on his shop. Yesterday Dallas with his update. And now you have to rub it in even more. I think I'll just watch TV tonight. Why even bother...
But it's good to finally see the pump in the complete scene.
Most satisfactory. -- Russ
Incredible Chuck.
Wonderful, Chuck.
Quote from: Chuck Doan on February 08, 2011, 08:45:09 AM
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Chuck --
It's fantastic! In addition to all the superb finishes, there's something (or many things) about the 'simple' composition of the scene that invites a long, lingering look at the scene. Really like the curved corners on the base in that regard ... and the "OPEN" sign leaning sideways against the front of the building and partially obstructed by a piece of scrap really "seals the deal" on what we're seeing here. You've got a nice array of "ground level" foreground elements, like the lubester, pump and even the crumbly porch step ... likewise with the "skyline" details with the garage lamp, sign hanger and roof over the entrance.
Maybe I've just been staring at a white painting too long and I'm starting to see things, but here goes: repeating zig-zag element in the "rotting" effects at the bottom of the garage doors, along the seams in the crumbling concrete and, of course, in the corrugation ... mimicked by a zig-zag line from the lubester to the lamp over garage to the hose reel to the pump ornament.
So, I guess what I'm saying is ... if you strip it all down and see that you're really only working with two dang squares (building/garage faces) ... how the bleep did you make it so dang cool and interesting?! Must be some kinda voodoo.
Now, regarding the actual modeling ...
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and also quite inspiring! ;)
-- Dallas
More closeups please! ;D
After giving us this masterpiece, what's next? Maybe a real railway layout? :D
Fantastic stuff. Always inspiring. And somewhat intimidating at the same time.
Chuck,
thanks for this wonderful piece of modeling. Marvelous.
Jacq
The modeling is superb, of course.
The scene almost begs for a figure and/or a vehicle -- a focal point (aside from the pump). For example a motorcyclist or bicyclist who has stopped for a look. Maybe a rusting vehicle, or part of one, on the driveway. Know what I mean? Is that something you already had in mind?
Russ
Terrific idea Russ! My guess would be he has someting else in mind that will make us freak out AGAIN!
Anders ???
Chuck
Just wonderful your best work so far, I don't think so. I think your just getting started.
Well back to my knitting!!!!
Jerry
Gentlemen, I have to disagree with all of you in regard of a vehicle or figure. I think the beauty of this diorama is the absence of a traditional focal point, because the eye keeps wandering around to discover all the beautiful details. I think one of the reasons why Chucks work is so impressive, is the abundance of figures. A figure creates a "frozen" image, revealing the truth of the model. But a lonely scene that has been left alone is a lot more powerful.
I think it is part of our model culture that we expect figures or vehicles to be part of diorama. And usually that figure or vehicle is meant to be the focal point. But I don't think that is the case here.
Chuck, Amazing Diorama !!!
Thanks for the nice words! Dallas, thanks for the close look, you have seen things I hadn't noticed. For me, splitting the wall kept my interest; I almost stopped because it was too boring looking.
There are still a couple of things to add, like the pump hose and a sign mounted to the hanger and a meter box and mast. I'm not sure what else could work on such a shallow display. A figure is out; I'm just not interested in doing one.
Some dioramas make a deliberate statement but I haven't really tried to tell a story or focus the viewer, I just modeled things that appealed to me and arraigned them in a scene. It's something you might come across on the side of a road and either or notice or not. I am more technical, so my models reflect that.
Heres' a pic with a mocked up sign:
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Quote from: BKLN on February 09, 2011, 06:06:16 AM
Gentlemen, I have to disagree with all of you in regard of a vehicle or figure. I think the beauty of this diorama is the abundance of a traditional focal point, because the eye keeps wandering around to discover all the beautiful details. I think one of the reasons why Chucks work is so impressive, is the abundance of figures. A figure creates a "frozen" image, revealing the truth of the model. But a lonely scene that has been left alone is a lot more powerful.
I think you meant "absence", rather than abundance, and I agree. Adding a vehicle or figure would detract from the scene -- the fine structure and its surrounding details would become merely "background". Also, no figure I've ever seen would look as real as the rest of the diorama.
oops. I did mean indeed "absence". Thanks, Ray!
Chuck, I was going to ask in my last post if you were going to add the mobil sign ::)....is there going to be a sign over the door & window.....as Name of garage with them cool 7-up signs on each end !!!! I like the 7-up signs i think there more interesting than the 60's coke sign you showed us. Chuck....this guy is looking for a job.
Thanks Ray! Craig, the Coke sign is out because it de-laminated on me. I'm not sure I want to cover up my siding, so we'll see about any further signage. I like that old Edward Hopper Gas painting; I might copy his minimalist feeling.
The Artist has spoken. The diorama is almost complete. I don't have to wait for the final photo to offer my highest praise: SUPERB. -- Russ
Every square inch is modeled to the max and there's
nothing in this scene that looks like a miniature.
Chuck, this is the most astounding model I've ever seen.
Thanks Russ, and Ken!
I finished my pump this weekend. I tried for a badly tarnished aluminum finish on the nozzle, and then installed it with a hose made from heat bent styrene rod. The hose was sprayed with flat black and then dusted with Bragdon powders. The nozzle was also primed with flat black and then painted with Gwosh and powders.
It's been fun, and I'm really happy with the result. I certainly could not have scratchbuilt this using traditional methods with the same results (or time frame).
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I used this nozzle for color reference-got fairly close
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Chuck, The pump look's Great.....the color on the nozzel is spot on ;)
Thanks Chuck for all the info and SBS stuff.
Has been a fun ride!
Any idea what is next?
-Marty
So it´s done! :o I agree it´s been a great and fun ride!
Anders ;D
Rusty, crusty, tarnished and yet somehow beautiful. Bravo! -- Dallas
There's nothing to add to this extraordinary model, Chuck.
You've left very little space for further improvements...
Really beautiful work Chuck!
Nádherný! Prachtig! Superbe! Hervorragend! Subarashii! Wspaniały! Excelente! .....and just plain old Superb!
Your piece makes the right hand image in the side-by-side, look like a so-so 1/48 model. ;D
Marc
"Nádherný! Prachtig! Hervorragend! Subarashii! Wspaniały!"
Marc took the words, uh, right out of my mouth.
Russ
I may add in dutch : GEWELDIG, GRANDIOOS.
You took modeling to the extreme .....
challenging your abilities without a deja-vu feeling will become difficult.
Jacq
Chuck,
Well this wonderful thread is finally coming to a close. Thanks for all the info and letting us watch this all come together.
It was just excellent.
And now Mr. Wizard do have any idea what will be next??
Jerry
Looks like the next Modelers Annual will have a centerfold, huh?
Thanks for sharing this amazing work!
Muchas Gracias
Wa'-do
Lac jak ko ih lu
Dank je
Dank schön
Arigato gozaimashita
Thanks and hopefully this will not create an international incident! I still have to mount it on the dio and finish a couple small dio things. The next project is unknown, but I have a long list to choose from. Hopefully somthing in the sub-two year range... :-\
"Crikey, she's a fair dinkum bloody ripper mate!"
Sorry, had to throw in some native Australian for the compliment list...
Its just another one of your fine and simple details that has been finished off to perfection, and will aid in making what sounds like a very plain scene (front face of an old garage), into a work of art. Inspiring stuff as usual Chuck...never really disappointed with your work for some funny reason.
Cheers,
Dan
Well here in Maine one would apply say it's of the "Finest kind".
Great stuff Chuck, thanks for walking us through a magnificent build.
Truly marvelous work, Chuck!
Another bit of detail: a tired old meter box (sans meter). Researched on Flickr. I 3D printed the box and the interior insert. I added a conduit fitting turned from .06 styrene hex and a plug also made from styrene. The bottom lock tab is .010 styrene and the mast bolts are from Plastruct hex stock. The wiring is annealed brass wire. (The black post is temporary). I finished it off with a few leaves stuffed inside.
The finish:
• Sprayed Flat Black from a can
• Thinned Polly Scale grey brushed on
• Gouache, Dullcote, light soda blast, gouache and pigment powders. Applied with paint brush, toothpick, cosmetic sponge and artist's stump. I also added some yellow paint slop around the edges.
Next is the service mast and weatherhead.
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Great Chuck! Is there a picture of the real thing on Flickr. ? In any case I´m sure it´s identical to this miniature masterpiece.
Anders :)
Search the tag "electric meter" over there and you will get plenty of ideas. They seem to be a popular subject, both old and new.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/christmasnotebook/2806906228/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sue_10512/2987027511/in/pool-electricmetering
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lopolis/2583139208/in/pool-electricmetering
Outstanding detail! (Of course) ... and, er, it seems maybe you've changed the name of this thread? ;D
That made me curious, so I went back to page one which is dated almost two years ago (and think that was when it was titled "already in progress" or some such) ...
Anyhoo, I find your slow modeling delightfully inspiring as I approach the one year anniversary of my building project with only two walls! ;D
Oh yeah, and it's nice to savor the flavor as things go along ...
Cheers,
Dallas
Oh, anybody could toss together a detail like that. Still, all things considered, it's not bad. -- Russ
really nice Chuck!
Thanks!
Dallas, after two years of chawing the flavor is pretty much gone.
For years and years, I've tried to find new ways to tell the feelings this kind of modelling creates in me...
Apart from superlative words, I've tried to imitate.
What's the size of the box?
Wow!
HE IS A FRIGGIN' SORCERER!
Look how the part is just floating above his fingers!
He didnt build it! He conjured it up with some eye of newt spell!
No fair!..... >:(
ARE YOU SURE YOUR FROM THE SAME WORLD WE ARE!!!!
Perfect!!!
Jerry
Thanks! Marty, I was just trying my levitating again. Glad I haven't lost my touch! Thanks Frederic, it's 3/8" x 1/2" x 3/16 thick. (9.5mm x 12.7mm x 4.7mm)
Wow Chuck, you are amazing!! Thanks for the inspiration!
What is a "light soda blast"?
-
Quote from: lab-dad on April 12, 2011, 05:04:16 AM
HE IS A FRIGGIN' SORCERER!
Look how the part is just floating above his fingers!
He didnt build it! He conjured it up with some eye of newt spell!
No fair!..... >:(
that is scary woooooohhooo... just noticed that...
grinnin
Jester, I use baking soda in a Badger mini sandblaster to mostly dull things at very low pressure (about 15 PSI) Its a fine line between dulling and removing.
Usually works great, but the surfaces are so flat any touching can leave a shiny spot.
Thank you, Chuck.
I wonder if I could make it in Z...
cirederF (I know, I'm just copying from Russ aka ssuR).
PS : Chuck, great power. You might try a Buddhist career in Nepal. :)
Quote from: JESTER on April 12, 2011, 07:57:37 AM
Wow Chuck, you are amazing!! Thanks for the inspiration!
What is a "light soda blast"?
-
Isn't that when you wave the cap from the tonic over your gin?
Every time I look at your work Chuck, I turn back towards my work bench and wimper.
Thanks Chester, I like that soda application better...another Highball my good man!
I installed the meter box and mast to the wall. Added some cloth wrapped conduit made from squished-to-oval solder with some texture applied with a file. Finished with thickish acrylic paint that I picked at with a toothpick to simulate crumbly insulation. I found numerous photos showing this stuff just looping up thru holes in the siding. Guess it worked. Still needs some clamps though, to bring it up to code.
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Excellent Chuck! Adds a nice color contrast to the green and yellow too. As close to reality as it gets. :o AS USUAL!
Anders ;D
Real nice! And the fake wire is quite convincing. -- Dallas
Chuck
Thanks always, for your articles that appear in magazines and forums.
They are a constant reference
Just thought I'd say hi
Mario (Australia )
I would write a glowing compliment but my cat, Mr. Greystoke, is sitting on my hand. -- Russ
But Russ - you still managed the compliment with the other hand anyway!!!!
This build has become a legend for its detail and accuracy. Not to mention really scary levels of modelling goodness.
If this appears in the annual, I might be tempted to buy a copy.
Not Lord Greystoke?
Chuck, Isn't that Electric box so close to the door a safety HAZARD :o ........... Looking Good !!!
code........... your kiddin right ;D
That box is so perfrect it's making my head hurt.
Only Chuck can make squashed solder a work of art. Maybe just a gob of caulking where it enters the house. They do make cover plates for entrance wires, once stamped galvanized, now plastic of course.
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Thanks very much! Hi Mario! Good to hear from you. Craig, you may well be right. In looking at a lot of rural stores and such I have seen amazing electrical work. The conduit through a hole seems hard to believe. Like Chester says some had covers, but many didn't (or maybe they fell off). I found meters in all different locations including many well above head height and even just below the roof eaves. Crazy stuff.
Here is the whole mast. It is .08 Plastruct styrene and the weatherhead (cap) and insulator were 3D printed. I'm planning a lot of wire and cable remnants and maybe some phone lines. Emmanuel Nouaillier's wonderful buildings are a good inspiration for all sorts of wires snaking around and got me to looking more at such things.
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Chuck, who are you using for your 3D printing? FineLine? If so, their Invision HR material? Curious. I uploaded a model and the only one I could even think of affording was in that material.
Chuck -
Could you provide a link to Emmanuel Nouaillier's fine work that you mentioned?
Thanks, Carlo
Hi Ed, I used Print a Part which is now Fineline. I haven't had any parts quoted from the new organization yet. Yes they are the Invision material, and I found PAP to be reasonably priced. I will have to get a new quote and see if there are any changes.
Carlo, I think Frederic or Nick or another European member may be of help. I have only seen pictures here and there, but I know he has been published in magazines. I don't know of a website that features his work, which is a shame. I came across this set on Flickr and I thought at first it was M. Nouaillier's work. He does a lot of old cement or stucco buildings with superb faded signs just like the ones in that Flickr album:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54472716@N04/sets/72157625764161017/with/5364443787/
UPDATE: http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b375/fvtavernier/Emmanuel%20Nouaillier/
and here: http://www.lrpresse.fr/trains/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25938&start=300
Google his name and search images.
Chuck:
Fabulous work as usual... I can't imagine how it could be any better.
The Fineline pricing seems to be about 11-12% higher than it was on PAP for the same Invision material. There are more options presented during the quote process including part orientation on the printing platform which is very helpful. The service is just as good if not a little faster.
Paul
Thanks for the info Paul. I had great service from PAP. I look forward to doing a project with the new entity.
Quote from: Chuck Doan on April 20, 2011, 09:20:41 AM
Carlo, I think Frederic or Nick or another European member may be of help. I have only seen pictures here and there, but I know he has been published in magazines. I don't know of a website that features his work, which is a shame. I came across this set on Flickr and I thought at first it was M. Nouaillier's work.
I have seen some of mister Nouaillier's work at Houten (NL) in 2009. He often writes articles for "modelspoormagazine" and "Art of Modelling" (both belgium magazines) and he is a member of the Proto 87 club. I have found a link to this club and there are some pictures where you can see some of the buildings he made.
http://www.club-proto-87.com/crbst_28.html
Leon
Chuck ,
I have been collecting Emmanuel articles for a number of years . The latest ones I have got are from earlier in the year and are in two different British publications . Military Modelling and Continental Modelling . I don't get either of them regularly but pick them up when I see an article by him . In the case of Continental Modeller an article by Emmanuel is the only reason I would buy one .
I have sent copies of earlier articles to your part of the World , either to Russ or Marc , I don't remember who , and I figured you will have seen them by now .
This reminds me that I need to sort out all his articles I haven't cut out yet ,
Nick
PERFECTION.
Marc
QuoteI have been collecting Emmanuel articles for a number of years . The latest ones I have got are from earlier in the year and are in two different British publications . Military Modelling and Continental Modelling.
A couple of Emmanuel Nouaillier's older articles are on the milmod website http://www.militarymodelling.com/ (http://www.militarymodelling.com/). Franck Tavernier posted a number of photos on one of the Yahoo groups (weathering?) a few years ago – unfortunately they got the usual clodhopper response from a couple of the self-styled modellers there.
Mr. Wizard could I borrow your hat for a day or two.
MAGIC AT IT'S FINEST!!!!!
Jerry
Chuck,
I have no words ... I keep getting big eyes when I see your great miniaturization here. Thanks for showing!
Frithjof
I'm aware of no web site for Emmanuel Nouailler's work (but see on the previous posts that his models have indeed be displayed on the web). He has published in a number of French mags, and I think he is still a regular contributor to "Le train".
Thanks for the additional info on Emmanuel's work.
I finished the (mostly disconnected) wiring for my garage. I used .022 annealed brass wire for two of the incoming lines and some Vintage Reproductions stranded cable for the third (ground?) line. Two lines are clipped short while one is longer with a splice still attached. I wrapped the splice with strips of aluminum foil to represent old electrical tape. I painted the wires with Polly scale black painted on dryish to get an old insulation texture. Final weathering was with pigment powders.
I made the ubiquitous phone box from Evergreen styrene. In order to carve the corner radii I used the old trick of coloring the styrene with a black Sharpie pen and then using a sharp X-Acto to carve the edges, first as a chamfer and then smoothing to a curve. The exposed white styrene allows easy gauging by eye to keep the corners equal and even. I used grey and white Gwosh over flat black primer to represent tarnished aluminum. I added the wiring with .012 and .008 annealed brass wire and staples formed from .006 brass wire.
I made a conduit clamp from .002 steel shim stock and a Tichy rivet/round head screw. The service mast was attached to the wall with a U-bolt. The three (now unused ) insulators were 3D printed.
Most everything was based on various prototype pics found on Flickr.
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this sure is fun to see come to fruition! ;D
-marty
You truly are the "MASTER" at making things so real. Just love all the little details that you keep adding to complete the scene.
Jerry
Normal people would merely shrug at someone who devotes hours to such detail and maybe think he's crazy. But I must be the one who's crazy because it get's my motor running. -- Russ
It's not often to see traces of paint on rusted nail heads or other remnants of previous wiring remaining on a model. The 3 insulators are a nice touch with the upgrade on the left. Even that tiny stick of wood on the lean-to spells realism!
Patients I suppose? 8)
Philip
No, its crazy. But its mostly peaceful crazy. Mostly.
Baah....Stunning!
Marc
Wow, that IS completely insane ... and very well done. You deserve some nice tapioca and a couple free rounds of bingo ... don't forget to stop at the nurse's station to get your meds. ;)
(Additionally: "Holy Crap!" on the manipulation of all the tiny little bits needed to make up that arrangement of wiring and hardware. Impressive just on that consideration, but the effect of "extra" photo-realism is dramatic with all those "hum-drum" details so carefully arranged.)
Cheers,
Dallas
They made a mistake yesterday at Rome. They should have beatified - and even canonized - Chuck. He accomplishes miracles every week!
Once again you've caused my jaw to hit the floor.
Hey Chuck --
Gotta ask ... when you started this project, were you planning to do all these tiny details? Or did the project just take on a life and will of its own?
Cheers,
Dallas
Chuck, just magic! Five stars.... :o
Anders ;D
Quote from: Frederic Testard on May 02, 2011, 03:43:38 PM
They made a mistake yesterday at Rome. They should have beatified - and even canonized - Chuck. He accomplishes miracles every week!
Has a nice ring to it Saint Charles Doan. This way we won't have to buy you a wizard hat or wand ;D
Jerry
Thanks all, very much! I think sainthood is a bit presumptuous though, especially the part of being put thru a cannon!
Dallas, the whole thing started on a whim with a screen door and has just gone on from there. Pretty poorly planned actually. I keep seeing interesting details that I want to try. You know how it is, like those electrical outlets of yours. Being able to do the 3D printing definitely extended this one though and allowed me to try some details I would have probably passed on otherwise.
Just one more little detail to go and then I will try the hanging sign and be done!
Wow just the screen door got this started?
Canonized ? When I was in High school, our history teacher explained Canonization, unknowing to me at the time, hey I was 14, he said they took the saint and blasted them out of a canon, and that's how that Ringling and Barnum Bailey circus act got started! He even had that as an answer on the test. I have learned since to question authority???
MPH
No saint
I finished a telephone ringer for my garage, a detail I noticed on several prototypes. Made from styrene except the 3D printed bells ( I would be hard pressed to turn two identical anythings) In the top photo you can see the radius carving thru Sharpie pen coloring on the styrene box. There was a little clapper ball, but I noticed in the final photos it has fallen off. >:(
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Chuck, Nice little touch, telephone ringer ;) GREAT
You're going to have a hard time summoning the bats to the belfry if your clapper ball has fallen off. :-X
Meanwhile, all these "normal little things" from real life that usually DON'T get modeled really bring the place to life ... oh wait, it's abandoned ... um, they bring it to ... let's see here ... well, it looks really real. ;)
-- Dallas
WELL RING MY BELL!!!!!!! ;D
Another reason they call you the "Wizard"!!
Jerry
At this point you're just showing off! -- ssuR
What else could he do, ssuR : shoot the magic wand?
I'm amazed that you still keep finding more of these great little details to add to the model! And without it looking "overdone" at all!
Quote from: Chuck Doan on May 12, 2011, 07:50:26 AM
There was a little clapper ball, but I noticed in the final photos it has fallen off. >:(
Now that's a phrase you don't see very often...
Paul
Hi Chuck, First thing I did after not looking in on this site for a long while was check and see what you are building. You did not disappoint!!!
I just didn't expect it to be the same building as 2 years ago ;D ;D ;D ;D
Randy
You and I live life in normal time, (well since I live in Potato Land maybe my time is less than normal) more about that later,... But Chuck my friend; well his clocks were Salvador Dali's inspiration!
There's Pacific, mountain, central, eastern, and standard time and then there's "Chuck time"
It's finished when it's finished! It's really very simple easy to understand.
MPH
Did you know that 60% of U.S. Potato products come from Idaho?
Thanks! Randy I am practising Bonsai weathering. :D
Paul, I just hope I never hear a doctor tell me those words. :-X
Time for some more of Gil's french frys!
Hey that ORE-IDA potato processing plant for McDonalds is right around the corner from me! I always wonder? there's a McDonalds just across the street from Oreida and do they walk the French fry's across the street, or do they ship them all the way to the distribution center and then ship them back?
Inquiring minds need to know???
MPH
Most Potato chip potato's come from Pennsylvania, because they grow round potato's
The world's largest Potato Chip is in the Potato Museum, in Black Hawk Idaho!
I finished the hanging Mobil sign this weekend.
Research: Mostly from Flickr. Searching the tag "Mobilgas" scored many nice pictures of the old shield design, with some nice weathering references too.
Artwork: In one Flickr album there was a large size picture of an old print ad. I imported it into Photoshop and cropped it and cleaned it up so the colors would print well. I then drew some chips onto the "porcelain" based on some of the pictures I had found. They should have some depth, but I had no interest trying to cut tiny holes in the rubbery decal film so I compromised. I did different artwork for each side of the sign.
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The magazine ad and cleaned logo
Decal making: I imported the JPEG artwork into a Word document and sized it to a scale 30" wide to fit under my sign bracket. I made two rows so I would have extras for screw-ups (and they were needed!) I printed them on Testor's white decal sheet using the Best Photo option on premium glossy paper. I also disabled the High Speed function on the printer so it would print the most solid colors (albeit slowly). I let the finished print dry a couple of hours and then coated the sheet with several light coats of Dullcote spray from the can.
The sign: I made the sign from .010 styrene sheet. I cut a square a bit larger than the artwork and sanded the pebbly side smooth. I cut out one of the decals from the sheet and used a sharp X-Acto to carefully cut around the print, right on the edge of the blue border. I cut through the film only and not through the sheet. I dipped the piece in water and slid it off onto the styrene, and carefully rolled the water out with a piece of plastic tube. When dry, I carefully cut the excess styrene and sanded up to the edges of the decal with sanding sticks. I used a round file on the radiused corners. I stopped with about .005-.010 to spare all around the sign. Then I applied the other side decal and carefully stretched and smoothed it to fit up to the edges of the shield shape. It took a few tries to get it done without trapping some goober under the decal, which usually ruined the thick "vinyl" film trying to lift it up. The final result was Dullcoted on both sides.
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Finishing: I painted the white edges of the sign with thinned Polly Scale ATSF blue. I used gouache to add the rust and rust streaks to the various chips. The hanging bracket was made from styrene with hangers bent from brass shim stock and then I primered the assembly with flat black spray. I used hairspray and the blue paint to finish it off.
I don't know if any of this will be useful, but at least I can refer to it in the future to remember what I did!
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Other than some final touchups, that is it for this diorama. Finally.
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Chuck,
fantastic work. Pity this is finished :'(
Thanks for the ride with all it's extremely useful building sbs.
Jacq
Very nice, not bad for your first attempt!
Was nice to see you use several different techniques and try out some very new ones too!
Wondering what is next, I am having a hard time lately getting inspired to do anything.
Do you have any plans for the next project?
-Marty
I can't believe its over!
I really, really love that you didn't add a car, bike or figure into the diorama. Them pump is the focal point, just the way it should be! But it doesn't dominate the scene, so the eye can wander around to discover all the other beautiful details.
Thank you for sharing your work and the process!
... still haven't finshed this whole thread and read all of the contributions ... and already yearning for more ... ::)
Massive cheers
Chuck
Hate to see this one end. All the new stuff that you used and explained how you accomplished every little detail.
Like Marty can't wait for you to rest up and start the next project.
Jerry
3d Photo realism in Doan style, it turned out great! I like the harmony and the subtlety of the many little details, everything is as it should be. More proof that the most mundane things become so interesting, when miniaturized in a harmoneous and believable way. I enjoyed watching you build this, and I look forward to your next thing.
Dave
Outstanding tutorial on the sign's creation. As for the diorama itself, well, uh, it's okay I guess. Might make the cover of the December Modeler's Annual (out of pity). -- Russ
Thanks for sharing your techniques all along the thread, Chuck. Not only is this sign wonderful, but we may even hope to make something decent following your description of the process.
Thanks for bringing this one to us Chuck. Can't wait for the next one either. Or the hard copy of the build in the annual!
Great! What's next? ;D
Sure, YOU might be glad that it's all wrapped up ... but for the rest of us, it's kinda like the last good show on TV got cancelled. :'(
Will you be doing a voice-over on the DVD set? Maybe some out-takes and bloopers?
Bravo and thanks for the great show! -- Dallas
Extraordinary work Chuck.
I've watched this unfold from the beginning, and your willingness to re-do work you're not satisfied with has really helped me with my own modest projects.
I like the fact you work to your own standards. Insanely high standards, but yours none the less.
What can I say that hasn't already been said? The diorama is perfection, and watching it "grow up" has been both highly educational and a real pleasure.
Thanks! This was a fun project. The best part was trying the 3D printing.
I'm in the same boat as Marty just now, I have a lot of possible projects but no strong inclination to build any of them. I did just find two new (to me) pictures of the monorail though! ;)
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Chuck, The Mobil sign turned out Great ;D It was great to follow along on this build.....learned some cool weathering tip's and what can be done useing PAP. Whats next ? how about a Gas Station in Gilmore gas in the 30's with a fully detailed interior ;)
How about the Death Star in 1/2" scale? :/
A little late here - missed the grande finale! Congratulations Chuck to another landmark piece in the history of modeling!
Anders ;D
Chuck, this is the most incredible miniature masterpiece I have ever seen.
We'll all be mesmerized by this for a very long time and I, for one, will be
revisiting these photos for...like...EVER.
Thanks for sharing.
Chuck, Congrats on completeing this project. The signs really are the olive in the perfectly stirred martini. Thanks for taking the time to explain the build step by step. Somehow the whole is greater than the sum of the parts.
Thanks very much!
I received my garage dio back from my Dad for some cleaning this weekend and I decided to try a couple of quick tree shadow pictures. It's interesting to me how a simple thing can change the feel of a scene so much. I just used an old ratty sagebrush tree to cast the shadows.
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That is just impressive!
Absolutely real , as you say the shadows just add something ...... Which to be honest I di not think was possible !
Chuck
I thought it was so realistic before. There is no way anyone could tell its a model for sure now. Just a beautiful picture. Thanks for posting it.
Jerry
The tree shadow definitely gives it a spark of life!
WOW. Im going to have a look at those pics again.
Have to wipe the drool up first.
wonderful pictures.
Chuck,
The photo's are outstanding
Brings a new meaning to shade tree mechanic
A question to you is:
The peal paint is outstanding however if you were to have used Rangers paints as you have just used on "Back To The Big Stuff" do you think there would be a big difference?
Mike Sigmon
Jacksonville, Fl
Thanks very much! Mike, I would probably try it thinned for a smaller scale. I would also try some version of regular paint and hairspray too, though I would think the wood should be sealed.
Very nice, Chuck.
Gordon Birrell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Chuck,
Your pictures are absolutely disturbing! The realism they give off is really impressive, and someone who does not know that it is a diorama would be unable even to say this is modeling!
I think you've reached the top of your art!
Franck
Absolutely unsurpassed. -- Russ
scarey good
regards kim
Love the shadows on what is a spectacular model Chuck. Thanks for bringing it to us.
Chuck,
I've got nothing else to add to what the previous writers said. And I don't want you to get you bored of repeating.
Volker
GAAAAAK!!........
I am reeeeeally beginning to dislike you! ;D ;D
I know it sounds faintly ridiculous............
But the thing it has gained to my eyes is nothing less esoteric than a "heartbeat"!! Now it's no stretch to wait for the bird to flit through the scene, or see an insect scamper across a surface.
It now carries a spark!!
Quote from: Chuck Doan on May 06, 2013, 08:25:25 AM
It's interesting to me how a simple thing can change the feel of a scene so much.
It certainly does! And as Andi noted, gives a sense of life to the images ... damn cool!
-- Dallas
I don't know...I've been looking at those two new shadowed images for about half an hour, and still can't find anything wrong with them ;)
Freakin awesome!
Cheers,
Dan
QuoteI received my garage dio back from my Dad for some cleaning this weekend
"Cleaning"?
Seriously Chuck?
I think he wants you to paint the walls, fix the screen and mow the weeds!
That place sure could use some tidying up! ;D :P
Always nice to see a different version of a beloved project.
Is it in a case?
-Marty
Thanks very much for the nice words! The shadows do bring some kind of life in. Makes it look like a nice place to pull over and stop (well at least to me).
Marty, it is in a case, but the clear front gets static dust on the inside. It's been in there 2 years now, I don't know where the time goes.
Quote from: Chuck Doan on May 07, 2013, 07:18:11 AM
Thanks very much for the nice words! The shadows do bring some kind of life in. Makes it look like a nice place to pull over and stop (well at least to me).
It reminds me of when I was a kid (many,many years ago) Traveling through small towns in NY state to go vacation with my parents. Kind of miss seeing places like that.
Jerry
Speechless and started to dribble again !! It's alive
Barney
Chuck, I really like what you did adding the shadows....it just adds some much to the building. On the other hand I'm going to the township offices and make a written complaint early Monday morning about this building being the Eye-sore that it is :( the owner needs to start fixing this building up... everybody on the street is complaining >:(
Chuck, I check in and you raise the bar again, I am tall but it is beginning to be a bit of a pain in the A@# to keep reaching up so high!!!!
michael
Good grief. The man adds a shadow to a model he finished 18 months ago and everybody (including me) goes nuts. How humiliating, especially since if I added a shadow to one of my models, it would earn nothing more than a yawn. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on May 19, 2013, 12:59:37 AM
Good grief. The man adds a shadow to a model he finished 18 months ago and everybody (including me) goes nuts. How humiliating, especially since if I added a shadow to one of my models, it would earn nothing more than a yawn. -- Russ
Ain't life a bitch .
You are so cruel. So terribly cruel. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on May 19, 2013, 01:09:26 AM
You are so cruel. So terribly cruel. -- Russ
Cruel , but kind (for your own good ) .
Nohting more to add other than this is the only thread where after more than a year "someone" posts 2 pictures of the same thing and I am busy reading the thread (again) for an hour !!
Looking foward for the next photo in e.g. some scale rain in lets say 6 months ?! ;D
If he can pull-off scale rain, I will truly worship him as a Modeling God. :O
Thanks very much! I haven't been doing much modeling lately, so I have to milk my old stuff for all it's worth ::)
I am sure someone somewhere has already figured out scale rain 'cause Iv'e seen the mud!
Quote from: Chuck Doan on May 20, 2013, 08:48:52 AM
Thanks very much! I haven't been doing much modeling lately, so I have to milk my old stuff for all it's worth ::)
I am sure someone somewhere has already figured out scale rain 'cause Iv'e seen the mud!
Don't worry , Chuck . You take a well earned break . Young Marc will fill in whilst you are resting . He seems to be very motivated at the moment . Well , the competition room at the next Narrow Gauge Convention is calling him .
Nick
We should expect very little from the NG Convention. Don't forget, those are the folks who were incapable of awarding Chuck prizes for the Red Oak Garage and a gorgeous little locomotive maintenance facility; who eschewed Mic Greenberg's first diorama in 30 years (not even a mention); and who gave a Bachmann geared loco with garish rusty weathering, chains, and antlers first place over Mal Ferrell's scratchbuilt Mich-Cal Shay!
Yes, the good ol' National Narrow Gauge Convention certainly has degenerated over the past 15 years.
Russ
Sounds like you're not too impressed sir.
Michael
Quote from: shropshire lad on May 20, 2013, 09:44:33 AM
He seems to be very motivated at the moment . Well , the competition room at the next Narrow Gauge Convention is calling him .
Nick
??????????. Not for a $90 registration fee it's not. .....but maybe it would be worth it to get a chance say no to the Gazette (I enjoyed it last time.)
That is correct ... up to a point. While I am not impressed with either the convention or all contest results, sometimes the best models really do win. On the other hand I'm afraid Marc may enter models better than anything else in the room and fail to earn Best of Show.
If there is a silver lining, it is that I have published photos of the best models (those that should have won) and more people have seen and appreciated them than could attend any three conventions!
I love it when a plan comes together....
Russ
Russ said
QuoteI love it when a plan comes together...
Ah yes! It is music when that happens.
Michael