Westlake Publishing Forums

Hi there

It's been very quiet around me in the last month. One reason for this is, that I call my latest project (Steel Cable Transmission) done and I didn't wanted to stick my neck out with my forthcoming project.

Now that the first clarifications are carried out, I would like show you what is on my workbench (or better on my desk, as I have no machinery at all...). I take a lot of inspiration in the work of Havard Houen and Volker Gerisch, also members of this forum. Above all, I want to build a locomotive out of brass. I know, without machinery this is a near impossible task, but this is one of my dreams for a long time.

Some of you may remember that most of my projects are rooted in my region; I always want to recreate a period in history.  And so the object of desire is a narrow gauge tramway loco that operated in my hometown from 1913 to 1971. And here ist the beauty (Ok, at the end of her career, her beauty faded slightly...):

(https://images40.fotki.com/v1075/photos/4/3824994/16308211/strassenbahnschaffhausen1klein-vi.jpg)

My technical and handicraft possibilities lie in particular in drawing etching templates and recently in 3d printing too. Nevertheless I require some assistance from you guys from time to time. I hope to post here my next steps soon.

First impressions:
Bogie side printed by Shapeways:
(https://images51.fotki.com/v1654/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20201106_155453-vi.jpg)

Coupler still in plastic also by shapeways:
(https://images20.fotki.com/v682/photos/4/3824994/16308211/8_33007374_17447379_1603871451-vi.jpg)

Etched brass parts
(https://images51.fotki.com/v1654/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20201118_174009-vi.jpg)


Cheers,
Peter

Volker, Helmut, and Frithjof seem to have found an outstanding guy for 3-D printing. You might want to find out more before settling on Shapeways. I look forward to watching your model come together. -- Russ

Very nice project, Peter. What scale is it ?

Bernhard

It's 0m gauge, 1/45 scale. ::)

Quote from: Peter_T1958 on November 18, 2020, 12:45:35 PM
It's 0m gauge, 1/45 scale. ::)

Ahh, perfect!

I can´t wait to see how you will tackle the pantograph. I  desperately need some inspiration to tackle the pantographs for my next engine.
Reallyl looking forward to follow this build.

What are the wheels like, by the way? And what standards will you build the model to?

Looking good!

Very interesting project, and you're off to a good start! I like the look of that electric loco, and love the weathered appearance. Will you be giving your model a similar appearance, or newer looking?

Thanks for your hints and questions. I am aware of the high standard in that forum and that's why I am prefere to post my work here. It's the only place I know, where not only nice words but constructive criticism is given.
But at this time it is still too early to expect answers about the planned work from me. Why?
Needless to say, the Proto 48 standard, would be my fist choice, but in lacking any machinery, that remains a dream. So I have to muddle through with what I am able to archieve. The Wheels for instance are from Slaters (I have read they are Finescale standard?!?) To match the 0m track the axles had to be milled some tenth of a millimetrer. Fortunately I found a watchmaker in the vicinity, tha made that for me - for money needless to say! He is also willing to rework future castings such as the motor and gear unit. In 0m scale all components have to find their place in a very small space.
With regards to the costs of such a project I had to go through rough times. Learning through trial and error meant, that the reject rate is very high, what increases the costs tredemous. That's why I concentrate now on the motor/bogie unit first not least because of the family bliss ;-D

@Ray
Of course, I would like to give my model a very weathered appearance. In my opinion such an "outfit" has much more charcter, is far more interesting!

@Havard
The pantographs are not on my focus yet, but I have a slight idea how to do them in the future. At "Jaffas-moba-shop.de" you can find an interesting approach (see -> download pdf document).

Cheers
Peter

Hi Peter! Two questions...can you point out the link about the pantographs for this non German speaker?
Also who is your vendor for the etchings?

Hi Paul
I don't know if it's allowed to linkt a thread with a commercial site. So I have attached a screenshot. Here you can see the download area with the kit instructions in pdf. on the mentioned address.

(https://images40.fotki.com/v1668/photos/4/3824994/16308211/Jaffa_Shop-vi.jpg)

May be Havard could do some changes on such a commercial kit or (much better) create some similar brass parts. I'd probably do that in the distant future. To me the construction looks promising.

My etchings I ordered at Ätztechnik Herbert Caspers GmbH & Co. KG in Germany. The owner, Thomas Engel, is a modeller himself.

     Before you bash yourself over the lack of tooling to do the work for you, look at some of the objects which were all hand made centuries ago by craftsman whose access to tooling and raw materials were quite limited.  Some of the pre-Roman work discovered in the UK is exacting even by this crowd's standards.  Also remember that practice makes you better as does a trash bin for parts which do not work out. 
     Remember that small parts take magnification to be able to see them, and clever ways to hold them while working on them.  Antique watches will provide inspiration beacuse of the challenges of size and accuracy.  Make it as good as you can now, and if necessary you can go back and replace parts once you get better.
     A mentor of mine told me years ago that when modeling you make the part the same way the full sized is done, only smaller.

Thank you Peter!

1/48 scale outstanding.

Quote from: Lawton Maner on November 19, 2020, 11:33:16 AMMake it as good as you can now, and if necessary you can go back and replace parts once you get better.

Oh yes, that's what I am doing right now ;D Each part has to be replaced one or two times. And that is not as cheap when those parts are in brass! Although I am missing some tooling indeed, this is just one point. What I am missing most is that I have absolutely no experience in that sector. Let me add an example:

In drawing the bogie on my PC I was asking me how to construct the pivot bearing. As may have guessed already, I had neither an idea nor could find a concrete answer in the www. So I set off straight away and tried to find a solution. Perhaps this will work; otherwise it will become rather expensive again....

Here what I am planning: A pivot with a small turntable underneath (red in the screenshot).
(https://images20.fotki.com/v682/photos/4/3824994/16308211/y_Strassenbahn_SchSt_Ge4_473_K-vi.png)

To prevent the tilting oft he superstructure I intend to install small spring elements (orange in the second drawing).
(https://images34.fotki.com/v1212/photos/4/3824994/16308211/GetriebeB-vi.png)

May be someone has a great deal of experience or can provide some pictures?

Cheers, Peter

   

Don't waste money or time. Just post your question here and somebody will give you the right answer. -- Russ

With the Xrot R12 I solved the following dimensions:

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.design-hsb.de%2FR12Drehgestell01.jpg&hash=62b4d7b8b02ef0c15e4e256041c1f4188bda6598)
There are 2 different bogion frames and this is the rear.
However, the front bogie is already ready.
Since the slingshot has a gigantic model weight, the boguas actually have no suspension but end stops. These end stops are adjustable via the counter nuts. From these end stops, the wheels can still spring out of the springs by means of small compression springs.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.design-hsb.de%2FR12Drehgestell02.jpg&hash=b7a4a974ccdef05f1690b0ab6e4232caa8b338ec)
Here the counter bearing from the bogie with an axial ball bearing like the model.

On the side, as with the model, there are only sliding plates, so that rocking prevents the construction. If your tram has to enter and exit in control tracks, it is recommended to make a bogie around the longitudinal axis tiltable and the other bogie to the other bogie. The axles of the R12 are minimally spring-loaded, but you can also achieve this excellently by a rocker technique of the bogies. For this purpose, the bogie must be divided lengthways and additionally made movable in the middle at the pivot point.

Definitely a very interesting project.

Peter, I would suggest to fix the bogie to the locomotive body with a screw. If you tighten it carefully, you can adjust the axial play very small. The pivot and bore should have as little play as possible.
I would not recommend a spring preload. The bogie cannot turn freely with it, which can lead to derailment in curves.

Bernhard

Quote from: Design-HSB on November 21, 2020, 02:15:37 PM
For this purpose, the bogie must be divided lengthways and additionally made movable in the middle at the pivot point.

Hmm, this could work, even in such a small scale compared to your ,,huge" Xrot! Would that mean, the second (rear) bogie should be non-motorised?!?

Quote from: Bernhard on November 22, 2020, 02:45:11 AM
Peter, I would suggest to fix the bogie to the locomotive body with a screw. If you tighten it carefully, you can adjust the axial play very small. The pivot and bore should have as little play as possible. I would not recommend a spring preload. The bogie cannot turn freely with it, which can lead to derailment in curves.
Bernhard

Thanks for your hint - I didn't realise that! At some threads in different forums I could make out coils springs around the screw. Here a quick sketch:

(https://images15.fotki.com/v1669/photos/4/3824994/16308211/Pivot-vi.jpg)

This corresponds approximately what you are proposing, yes (?)

Regarding the attachment of the trucks (bogies) to the body; I used the "three legged stool" principle for my Westinghouse engines.  One bogie (A) is allowed to rotate freely in both planes. This is just like the drawing you postet right after I first posted this message!  The other (B) is allowed only to move in the horizontal plane.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fskisse_boggie_A_web.jpg&hash=0990e043df2e0bb5272ca7bd663b0708c3d23a37)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fskisse_boggie_B_web.jpg&hash=cffc3bb5ba2f18b3e369dabc5d4e31dfa678d6ef)

I use that same principle for the wheelsets. One axle is fixed to the bogie (two "legs"), and the other is allowed to swivel sligtly (one "leg"). This works well for my bogies, since only the fixed axle is powered. A more elegant solution for making sure that all the wheels are in contact with the track would be to use sprung axleboxes. Unfortunately, mys skills are not yet up to that task.

When it comes to the wheels, have you compared the prototype wheel profile against your chosen Slater Wheels? I dont know If you you are planning a stand-alone model or have plans for more rolling stock and perhaps a layout. If the latter is the case, you should consider a complete set of standards. This would include wheel profile, back-to-back, exact track gauge, check gauge etc.

Sorry for the delay in my replay – although the number of cases still is stagnating in Switzerland, the daily work has become demanding too due to the legal guidelines, huh...   

Thanks for your inputs, Bernhard and Havard!
@ Harvard
It may well be that I am slow on the uptake, but I do not really understand what you mean with the first sketch. How exactly should I interpret that bearing points? Sorry!
Anyway, I have to point out, that the space between the upperside of the motor/gear unit is limited due to the motor located very (!) close to the centerin pin...

(https://images42.fotki.com/v1416/photos/4/3824994/16308211/Antrieb_01-vi.jpg)

All the best,
Peter

Hi

It has been quite some time since I could post an update here. Some further work happened in the meanwhile – not only successful...
First, an attempt to print the +GF+ coupler (widespread in Switzerland) in steel. Almost this would have worked  despite the thin walls... but only almost!
Unfortunatel the thin walls wraped slightly:

(https://images52.fotki.com/v1211/photos/4/3824994/16308211/Coupler_2B-vi.jpg)  (https://images46.fotki.com/v1660/photos/4/3824994/16308211/Coupler_1-vi.jpg)

So back to square one!


Much more successful were the reworked etching parts. Here the superstructure, the cab interior and the frame.

(https://images54.fotki.com/v101/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20210205_162603B-vi.jpg)   (https://images15.fotki.com/v1669/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20210205_162609B-vi.jpg)

I'am afraid of messing these parts up when soldering (here the lack of experience is noticable).
However, a first try with some spare parts in hard soldering with soldering paste looks promising.

Hopefully I will be able to show some successful results soon!

If that coupler is made of steel, perhaps you could heat it red hot, then press the thin part back into correct shape?

The couplers look beautiful. Too bad they warped. Given your skill and artistry, I am certain you ultimately will solder together the etched parts perfectly. The project looks extremely promising. -- Russ

Peter, wouldn't pressure in silver perhaps be the better solution? It can be if the steel is too hard that you can't straighten it.

Is the etching board from Solingen?

Definitely a nice project.

Maybe it would be better to print/cast the couplers in brass. You could certainly straighten them better if they are warped.

Bernhard

Hi gents

Concerning working with brass I have to go through a long and steep learning curve. After some (or more) unsuccessful attempts with soldering, success is growing slowly but steadily.

First trials in bendig and soldering the etched parts (@ Helmut: Yes, from Solingen):

(https://images46.fotki.com/v678/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20210208_210934-vi.jpg)

(https://images15.fotki.com/v1669/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20210211_2127172-vi.jpg)


Then I received the gearboxes from my local caster. Now they have been sent to a precision mechanik to be reworked. But even as raw casts, all bores worked already fine !

(https://images20.fotki.com/v1666/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20210304_134342-vi.jpg)

(https://images54.fotki.com/v1224/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20210306_162417-vi.jpg)

And here my present efforts in hard soldering. It is easy to identify the first attempt  ;)

(https://images44.fotki.com/v802/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20210311_145010-vi.jpg)

Nothing wrong with any of that. I can't see any problems from those photos. -- Russ

i Agree with all + great work
Barney

Nice work, Peter!

Bernhard

Wow, nice work!

Both the bogie sides and castings for the mechanism looks mighty fine!

I am especially interested in the drive system. It will be very interesting to see how well it performs. The design looks very good, but the proof of the pudding is in the driving!

Hello Peter, absolutely all around everything succeeded.

I have been using successfully for decades, a GRIFFON - S-39 Universal flux from the Netherlands.

This allows even dirty corroded metal to be soldered.

Hi Helmut

I have just ordered it! Hmmm, a respectable price with those shipping costs! But it will last for another few years::)

Thank you all for your comments!

Quote from: Design-HSB on March 13, 2021, 05:06:41 AM
I have been using successfully for decades, a GRIFFON - S-39 Universal flux from the Netherlands.

Thanks to Helmut's hint I made some progress in soldering. Step by step it etched and printed brass parts are coming together:

(https://images42.fotki.com/v1257/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20210803_195553-vi.jpg)

The motorisation of the bogies is on its way too. Only the fact, that the wheels (Slaters) aren't exactly to scale dampen the joy, but I will try to design my own wheels - a great challenge for me...

(https://images44.fotki.com/v1644/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20210604_171246-vi.jpg)

Hi Peter,

I am pleased that you have first successes in soldering with S39.
The housing of the locomotive also looks good.

Excellent, neat fabrication. -- Russ

Fantastic! Very clean work.

Excellent work Plus- very neat and clean - and well worked out
Barney

Hi Peter,

I'm the new guy here, but I've been on the net and forums for some time now.

I saw your question about pantographs. A while back I built four freelance design electric box cabs. I had to build mu own pantographs. Back in many years in a Model Railroader magazine was an article on building pantographs. Bob Hegge explained how he built them for his 1:48 scale electric engines.

Here's a couple of ones I built for my HOn30 box cabs.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kingstonemodelworks.com%2FRLF%2FHOn30%2FElectric%2520Boxcab%2Felecboxcab77.jpg&hash=58e54c5b88efda155ab5315a6aaca98d302c277c)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kingstonemodelworks.com%2FRLF%2FHOn30%2FElectric%2520Boxcab%2Felecboxcab84.jpg&hash=c51948e8fa5503d967107fed40546376f34f2742)

I have a whole write up but haven't posted it yet to my website.

Bernd

Peter, that is impressively clean  and precise assembly. Your soldering skills have developed exceptionally well.

Bernd, Welcome to the forum. That is a good looking pantograph, and it's HO scale.

Thanks Bill.

I hope this is some help to Peter.

Bernd

Wow! That is some mighty fine work!

Thanks for your feedback, gents!

After a long lean period, soldering is already fun – when you possess the correct tools😉

Here some progress: the engine stands on ist own feets and, unsurprisingly I decided to rework the vehicle frame. It simply wasn't sufficiently exact!
(https://images46.fotki.com/v1671/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20210808_155126-vi.jpg)

The same problem with the wheels. After a long back and forth and after looking up the various standards I had to realise that the wheels don't fit any of these standards – they were too narrow. So I am going to design my own wheels. Here a first attempt. No idea, if these printed steel parts are machinable at all...:-\
(https://images40.fotki.com/v1668/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20210817_104544-vi.jpg)


@Bernd
Your pantographs are looking very fine! I have ordered two 0-gauge Sommerfeldt pantographs to dissect them and to do my own ones in the right dimensions. Some oft the parts have to be replaced with brass castings. Here the CAD drawing. It looks, as if they can be printed in brass in such filigrane style...
(https://images40.fotki.com/v1668/photos/4/3824994/16308211/Stromabnehmer-vi.jpg)

Cheers,
Peter

Thank you Peter for the kind words.

I'll be following along to see how you make your pantographs with great interest.

Bernd

I've never built locomotives and I admire your work.
It's beautiful !

Quote from: Sami on August 19, 2021, 07:44:32 AM
I've never built locomotives and I admire your work.
It's beautiful !

Thank you very much.

It has taken many years on the acquisition of tooling and failed projects.

Bernd

Nice work!

Inspirational. -- Russ

Quote from: Peter_T1958 on August 19, 2021, 05:35:58 AM
The same problem with the wheels. After a long back and forth and after looking up the various standards I had to realise that the wheels don't fit any of these standards – they were too narrow. So I am going to design my own wheels. Here a first attempt. No idea, if these printed steel parts are machinable at all...:-\
(https://images40.fotki.com/v1668/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20210817_104544-vi.jpg)

The engine seems to be progressing very well!
But who printed the metal wheels?

And I´m looking forward to hear how the machining of the wheels turned out!

Hi Hauk

As you know, first I wanted to use Slaters wheels. But you can make it out here: they are more then one millimeter too wide.

(https://images41.fotki.com/v1673/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20210824_163819-vi.jpg)

The idea with the printed steel wheels came up when I received the price calculation from «my» watchmaker. A brass wheel with a steel tyre would have been far too expensive. So I printed the whole wheel in Fine Detail Steel at i.materialise.com.

Cheers, Peter


P.S.  Some minutes ago my watchmaker wrote me, that the milling of the two prototypes was successful. I am very keen to see the result and will post an update here as soon as possible!

Superb - the detail is excellent
Barney

Quote from: Peter_T1958 on August 31, 2021, 12:23:54 PM

The idea with the printed steel wheels came up when I received the price calculation from «my» watchmaker. A brass wheel with a steel tyre would have been far too expensive. So I printed the whole wheel in Fine Detail Steel at i.materialise.com.

Cheers, Peter


P.S.  Some minutes ago my watchmaker wrote me, that the milling of the two prototypes was successful. I am very keen to see the result and will post an update here as soon as possible!

I fully understand your concern for the wheels.
When you are going to dress up, the shoes are important!

Looking forward to see the machined wheels.

Quote from: Hauk on September 01, 2021, 12:47:02 AMWhen you are going to dress up, the shoes are important!Looking forward to see the machined wheels.

And here they are. To me they look quite fine and so I ordered some plastic insulations from shapeways to put together one prototype wheelset. What do you mean with shoes? Brake shoes?

(https://images42.fotki.com/v1416/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20210901_103503-vi.jpg)

He is comparing wheels on a locomotive or on rolling stock to the shoes we wear. The wheels (i.e., locomotive "shoes") you produced really look good. -- Russ

Quote from: Peter_T1958 on September 01, 2021, 01:58:39 AM

Quote from: Hauk on September 01, 2021, 12:47:02 AMWhen you are going to dress up, the shoes are important!Looking forward to see the machined wheels.

And here they are. To me they look quite fine and so I ordered some plastic insulations from shapeways to put together one prototype wheelset.

The wheels look great!  Think I will try to test this route myself.
How well did the the dimensions of the printed parts compare with the STL-file you made?

Hi Håvard

So stupid! I didn't catch the saying with the shoe... :'(

It's difficult to judge the accuracy of the dimensions after turning them on the lathe. As I can make out the wheel width is exactly 2.0 mm as drawn on the CAD program. And the inner wheel diameter (16.2 mm) matches exactly the drawing too. So I can't find any shrinkage...

(https://images15.fotki.com/v1674/photos/4/3824994/16308211/Prototype-vi.png)[/URL]

Quote from: Peter_T1958 on September 02, 2021, 05:03:32 AM
Hi Håvard

So stupid! I didn't catch the saying with the shoe... :'(

It's difficult to judge the accuracy of the dimensions after turning them on the lathe. As I can make out the wheel width is exactly 2.0 mm as drawn on the CAD program. And the inner wheel diameter (16.2 mm) matches exactly the drawing too. So I can't find any shrinkage...

(https://images15.fotki.com/v1674/photos/4/3824994/16308211/Prototype-vi.png)[/URL]

That sounds promising! My only concern is the price. I got a quote based on a wheel center around 17mm in diameter, and it clocked in at around 35 USD.
How much did you pay for your parts?

(Don´t worry about the shoes, that was just me trying to be clever... 8) )

Just that's the point: One wheel cost 20.36 € postal charges not included. But since the entire project with all its trials and errors has become incalculable... ::)

This all looks really great.

On the issue of wheels and cost though:  It would be straightforward to resin print wheels in a castable material and then lost wax cast into bronze (or whatever).  Obviously you then need to machine and add a tire.

My experience doing this (and I've done quite a lot) is that it is much cheaper than the prices you mention.

Lawrence

Many thanks for your feedback! The difference to the other wheels is more then obvious and just that is the reason to follow this path!

(https://images40.fotki.com/v1668/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20210901_163933-vi.jpg)

@ Lawrence
As I do not have any machinery (Ok, a Proxxon drill and a soldering iron 😉) I have to bring all items to « my » watch maker and have to deal with his abilities. He didn't wanted to do «such complicate things»! And of course, this way is not less expensive at all...

The improvement is so huge a blind man could see it. -- Russ

The new wheel looks so much better than the others!

Peter, your decision to make new wheels paid off handsomely. A big improvement!

WOW... so much better. Well done indeed!

I totally agree that the finer wheels are well worth the extra cost and effort.

You are absolutely on the right track here!

Håvard, once in your tread about the «Wooden Ore Cars» I came to the conclusion that your work is far above the level I will ever achieve. That is still a fact, but I am sure your encouraging words help to improve my work within the next few years ;D

Thanks a lot all!

Hi Peter.
Yes, I will just echo the other comments' quality work.
cheers Kim

It's been a long time since I posted here an update. As I wrote before I have no lathe, so a precision mechanic has to rework my printed steel wheels. He had to fit in the insolation too, also printed in Accura Xtreme by Shapeways.
After months of waiting, today I received the first wheel set. And I am quite happy with it – all fits together perfectly!

(https://images46.fotki.com/v1642/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20220317_152435-vi.jpg)   (https://images34.fotki.com/v1649/photos/4/3824994/16308211/IMG_20220317_152519-vi.jpg)

Cheers, Peter
BTW. The bogies are primed with etching primer which has an excellent adhesion indeed!

Great to see an update! That bogie looks really good. What brand of etch primer did you use, by the way?

Peter,That is an excellent bogie!

Impressive work, Peter. Considering that it was made without machines at the kitchen table!

Bernhard

Hello Peter, nice to see the successful construction progress.

That is a very good looking wheel set. The chassis looks excellent, too. -- Russ

Good job Peter ! Pleased to review your work.

EXCELLENT - Miniature engineering
Barney

Good work!

Quote from: Hauk on March 17, 2022, 01:33:57 PM
What brand of etch primer did you use, by the way?

I used Maston 1K etch primer, the sole available in the shops. But I am quite satisfied with it, because it is as fluid as water and it adheres well on brass.

Cheers, Peter

That is lovely Peter, well done.

Quote from: Peter_T1958 on March 21, 2022, 12:29:31 AM

I used Maston 1K etch primer, the sole available in the shops. But I am quite satisfied with it, because it is as fluid as water and it adheres well on brass.

Cheers, Peter

Thanks!

Looking forward to more updates on your fine project.

Is this primer applied from a spray can, and is it water soluble or solvent based?

Bernhard

With the intention not to hijack Håvard's thread (https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=493.240) I will write an answer here. First of all, many thanks for your encouraging words and your offers for help.
The reason why this project has stalled lies deeper, and may be, one or the other member is familiar with my problem.

With that tramway loco of my hometown I wanted to make a dream come true: building my own real brass model, and a subject, that had never been made as a model before. After several decades of spending time on plastic cutting, carving, sanding and gluing I wanted to push my skills forward to a higher level.
Perhaps you know already, my machinery resource is very limited – a Dremel and a soldering iron on a writing desk.
Of course tools are not essential and decisive : with a lot of experience and some talent you can build almost everything. BUT... I had to realize, that without adequate machinery the level of detail is limited when you want to build a movable brass loco. Further more, I am a hard-core rivet counter. So the output of my work did not fit to my demands. You can see that already on the bogies !

SchSt73-1.jpg

They are not bad, but compared to those from Håvard or Lawrence, obviously there are a big differences.

Meanwhile I am able to reach the desired level of detail with my 3D program and I am very occupied with the construction of my military tractor/tractors, my other field of interest. I build them in commission for a French small-scale manufacturer. That is very satisfactory, as the results are far better then in my brass work. Here my newest attempt:

Dürkopp.jpg

You see, the competition is stiff, and so is the way back to that project. But who knows, Håvard showed a way to bring together the two techniques.

All the best,
Peter

I am a bit prejudiced here as a model of an electric engine in 0m scale is as darn close as you get to my own modelling interest!
So I would love to see your brass engine project continued, but to be honest my reasons are a bit selfish.

Judging from the pictures, I find no faults with your brass work. But pictures can be deceiving, and the only thing that matters in the end is how YOU feel about your work.


If you get more satisfaction from modelling military tractors, go for it! And keep posting. Good modelling is always inspiring, no matter the subject.

But if you decide to restart the brass engine project, I could definitively be open for some bartering: what about some machining work in exchange for some digital 3D-modelling? ;)

Hello Peter,

I'm delighted that you're getting back to your great project.
Even with your "limited machine resources" you have created some really impressive parts so far.
Counting rivets at the "kitchen table" is not a contradiction in terms, we know examples not only here in the forum ;-)

QuoteYou can already see that in the bogies!

I can't see anything, either the picture is too small or I'm a bit blind!

A look at other model builders' projects should inspire you to continue, as Håvard has fortunately done.

In any case, I'm looking forward to the sequel!

Quote from: fspg2 on February 06, 2024, 07:34:11 AMI'm delighted that you're getting back to your great project.

To date, nothing has been decided, so I will to be cautious with promises. ;)
But Russ is certainly right. I will find help in this forum anyway.

@ Håvard
Your proposal is very tempting and if I am able to restart this project I shall be coming back to this!  Generally, if you should require some 3D files... I can still say « No »!

I am not only designing those Artillery tractors, but also spare parts for armoured vehicles, parts for spacecrafts and submarine parts and entire submarines for a close relative and, and, and! 

Finescalerr.jpg

The problem is exactly lying here: I am loosing myself in all the different projects – there is hardly time for my own projects on the modelling desk.

Hmm, that started with my retirement two years ago – funny ?!

Please post some of your commercial work. This forum is not just for railroad modeling. You may have noticed we have a section just for military modeling, for example, so you may continue to inspire us with various other projects when you have no time to work on the tram loco.

And I see nothing to criticize on the railroad truck. It looks as good as any commercial product I've seen.

Russ

Quote from: finescalerr on February 06, 2024, 01:54:54 PMPlease post some of your commercial work. This forum is not just for railroad modeling.
Russ

Hi Russ
Just to avoid a false impression – these aren't all commercial products. The Büssing and Dürkopp tractors I did for myself but I can sell them on a commission basis for some bucks. With an order volume of 20 copies there is hardly anything left over. But of course I won't do it because of the money ; perhaps that's simply a little extra that flatters the soul.

All of that work is for befriended people who say « Can you please design me this or that? » but afterwards I uploaded them to shapeways that others can benefit as likely as not.
You will find some of them at shapeways under «Blue Collar Worker». Surprisingly all submarine stuff, a subject I was never really interested in, is going rather well.

What I actually want to say, I do envy a little bit all colleagues here who can limit themself to a single topic in that hobby, such as railways for example. So over the years you gain much more technical competence and knowledge. I was lacking this competence at my excursion into the world of brass modelling. 
According to the saying «A cobbler should stick to his last» I am at my artillery tractors again... at least at the moment  ;D

Peter, every beginning is difficult when you venture into a new area. I myself also started from scratch as an autodidact. I quickly realised that two things are essential for success: the right tools and a good mentor.
Regardless of this, the modelling hobby has so many facets that everyone is sure to find something they enjoy. I always look with fascination at the work of forum members from other areas and think to myself: in my next life I'll do the same!

Bernhard

Hi Peter always a plesure.
cheers Kim