Designing a shadowbox diorama

[Krusty]

A bit surprisingly there are several sources, but currently I buy them from Hassler Profile in Lichtenstein:

Thanks Hauk.

[Hauk]

Test-fitted the finished doors before hitting them with a coat of primer. I suspect they need some more cleaning up, but before they have been primed it is hard to see how bad it is. It really pays off to be careful about how much solder to use!

[Lawrence@NZFinescale]

Avoiding excess solder in the first place is clearly a good idea, but there's a danger of too little if you are not careful so a bit extra is not all bad. If you need it, there are tricks to cleaning up solder.  I would be cautious about priming first - as you possibly then have to remove it if you need further clean up.

1. Reheat and use a coarse bristle brush to flick of any excess.  Some safety considerations here obviously and you'll ruin the brush fairly quickly, but it does clean up around detail quite well.
2. Brass scraper (made to suit from scrap).  Using brass means you won't damage the work, but removes solder well.  Good for restoring sharp edges.
3. Fibreglass eraser/pencil/sticks.  Quite effective, but the bits of fibreglass that result are a hazard/nuisance. I always seem to get a bit in my finger.
4. Sandblasting.

Used in that order your doors would come up very well.  Not a lot of #1 needed I think unless you need to sharpen up the rivets.

[Daniel]

It is not the first time i see one of your wonders. Amazing!



Daniel

[Hauk]

Avoiding excess solder in the first place is clearly a good idea, but there's a danger of too little if you are not careful so a bit extra is not all bad. If you need it, there are tricks to cleaning up solder.  I would be cautious about priming first - as you possibly then have to remove it if you need further clean up.

1. Reheat and use a coarse bristle brush to flick of any excess.  Some safety considerations here obviously and you'll ruin the brush fairly quickly, but it does clean up around detail quite well.
2. Brass scraper (made to suit from scrap).  Using brass means you won't damage the work, but removes solder well.  Good for restoring sharp edges.
3. Fibreglass eraser/pencil/sticks.  Quite effective, but the bits of fibreglass that result are a hazard/nuisance. I always seem to get a bit in my finger.
4. Sandblasting.

Used in that order your doors would come up very well.  Not a lot of #1 needed I think unless you need to sharpen up the rivets.

I was a bit unclear in my previous post, almost all the above suggestions have been put to use!
I have yet to try number 1, but it I certainly will try it out.

I am also aware that reheating the work after priming will destroy it, so I am prepared to remove the paint again if neccesary.

As strength isn´t very important with these parts, I think it is a wise strategy to use as little solder as possible. Most of the excess solder came from applying solder on the back of the doors before adding the rivets. The capillary action drew the solder right up the holes for the rivets, and puddled up not very nicely around the rivets... 

It should also be noted that it is not always neccesary to rmeove the solder, sometimes it works to flux the blobs and reheat the area. With a little luck the blob will flow into a nice, thin layer that the fibre-glass eraser (But I get itches only thinking about those fibre-glass bristles).

In addition to the items on the list I have also tried with some success those braids of copper wire that are made for absorbing excess solder.

[fspg2]

Hello Hauk,
I often use desoldering braid to remove excess solder,
as shown for example here: https://www.techspray.com/desoldering-how-to-guide.

Otherwise, I always look forward to your posts!

[Hauk]

Hello Hauk,
I often use desoldering braid to remove excess solder,
as shown for example here: https://www.techspray.com/desoldering-how-to-guide.

Otherwise, I always look forward to your posts!

Thanks a lot for the link to the video!

As mentioned I have tried the desoldering braid, but in a rather stupid fashion that me pride stops me from explaining in further detail...

Can't wait to try it the correct way!

[Hauk]

Thanks a lot for the link to the video!

As mentioned I have tried the desoldering braid, but in a rather stupid fashion that me pride stops me from explaining in further detail...

Can't wait to try it the correct way!

Well, the correct use worked at least a bit better, but cleaning up solder will probably be a constant pain in the proverbial.

The doors are now officially ready for painting. Time to move on!

[finescalerr]

That will do. -- Russ

[WP Rayner]

Very nice work on the doors!
Cleaning up solder is definitely a constant pain in the proverbial... 
One trick I've used with some success, is to mask around the area to be soldered with Neolube (graphite solution). Solder won't stick to it, so it acts as a barrier preventing outward flow from the solder joint. A quick abrasive blast to cleanup is usually all that's needed, thereby circumventing the need to use the lavishly lethal fibreglass eraser!

[Ray Dunakin]

Looks great, Hauk!

[Hauk]

Primed the doors this evening with Tamiya surfaces primer. I must say that this is an excellent primer. You can lay it down pretty heavy and wet, and it seems to literally "shrink on" as it dries. But the neutral smooth finish really betrays any blemishes in your work! I had totally overlooked that missing rivet, for instance.

[finescalerr]

Nothing much to criticize there. Satisfactory. And I, too, am a fan of Tamiya paints. -- Russ

[1-32]

Hi HauK
yes the surface primer is definitely a superior product.
Cheers

[Barney]

 I Must try this Tamiya primer it certainly looks a perfect finish
Barney