One of the projects on my bucket list is a shadow box diorama of the engine house/workshop at the terminal of "my" railroad, Thamshavnbanen.
It is a really nice-looking brick workshop with a wooden annex for the engine house. Lots of heavy lathes and other machine tools to add interest. Especially the gantry crane is a nice touch:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Finterior_verksted_2_w.jpg&hash=6576e00f5bd9563dc68135d64ebd22b6614a81e5)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Finterior_verksted_3_w.jpg&hash=b1bc678ccac2140c06cbc4b12edf7c1012113f01)
The building is still standing, and even if all the machinery is removed (it is used as a warehouse), it still got a lot of character:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fverksted_idag.jpg&hash=ca7a9aa3b3693d4a97d873da8cbef8ecdba89dfc)
But I just can't make my mind up over the design for the diorama. There are two concepts I am contemplating. First, a design that could be described as just removing a section of the side wall:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fskissemodell_08.jpg&hash=28b76e3c1f90cdba0ebaa7e04a39bdff96525e6a)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fskissemodell_01.jpg&hash=0f22d6db06df45058cdd331232be5c66ba4f245c)
As the workshop is quite symmetrical with doors at both ends I have made a mock-up with a mirror. A half-model of the gantry crane should be suitable for hiding the edge of the mirror:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fskissemodell_12.jpg&hash=b1bf2dfc7bd2e49866b44b9251819096567723b7)
The second design is a diagonal cut through the building:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fskissemodell_02.jpg&hash=66239f20b04ab5fa110de8741bfe2428e9e0585f)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fskissemodell_03.jpg&hash=4ca35d27613e0be8281cf7c435e9022d1dace101)
I have felt that the first design is a bit too static. But after visiting the Lyon Museum of Cinema and Miniatures. I am not so sure anymore. In this museum they have an excellent collection of shadow-box dioramas. Almost all of them are of the "removed wall" type with the floor plan orthogonal to the looking window. Here is an example:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Flyon_miniatures_01_w.jpg&hash=f8db765ac9c64466912e70da29b11273d2406dbc)
So, what do you think? Which of the concepts show most potential in your opinion?
All input is very welcome!
Great prototype, those arched rafters are beautiful.
I tend to favor the "missing wall" format. To me, it seems to provide the sense of seeing the interior as if you were actually there, having just walked into the room.
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on July 27, 2016, 10:14:19 PM
Great prototype, those arched rafters are beautiful.
I tend to favor the "missing wall" format. To me, it seems to provide the sense of seeing the interior as if you were actually there, having just walked into the room.
Ray, your post triggered a new thought; why not just use the old black and white images as guides for the design?
The photographer has chosen the most dramatic viewpoint for the pictures. All I need to do is chose what end to model.
This would result in a shadow-box that is much deeper than it is wide, which is exactly the case with most of the dioramas in the Lyon museum as well.
Time for a new mock-up, me thinks. Thanks for kicking my brain back into gear!
hi hauk.
i love the trusses in the original picture.curved lamination structural bearing now that is class.
cheers
Quote from: 1-32 on July 27, 2016, 11:51:51 PM
hi hauk.
i love the trusses in the original picture.curved lamination structural bearing now that is class.
cheers
I agree, it is almost like a church hall!
I also think that this will stand out better in the diorama if I go fot the photographers view.
Me, too. -- Russ
Ditto.
Volker
Hauk-- The view "down the tunnel" certainly looks the most dramatic (I love the way the roof trusses build on each other), though the box becomes very deep. Trying to force the perspective would get very complicated, especially if you are using manufactured detail parts and don't have control over their relative sizes, but it might be interesting to to try an "aerial" perspective where the colors lighten up and gray out as you work back toward the more distant objects, just like in the photo. The whole issue of "scale" color adds dimension and makes small models LOOK the size they are supposed to be.
Sure would be nice to have a Museum of Cinema and Miniatures closer to home! Good luck with this one-- sure looks like fun! DF
Quote from: Dave Fischer on July 28, 2016, 01:13:04 AM
Hauk-- The view "down the tunnel" certainly looks the most dramatic (I love the way the roof trusses build on each other), though the box becomes very deep. Trying to force the perspective would get very complicated, especially if you are using manufactured detail parts and don't have control over their relative sizes, but it might be interesting to to try an "aerial" perspective where the colors lighten up and gray out as you work back toward the more distant objects, just like in the photo. The whole issue of "scale" color adds dimension and makes small models LOOK the size they are supposed to be.
Sure would be nice to have a Museum of Cinema and Miniatures closer to home! Good luck with this one-- sure looks like fun! DF
Down the tunnel we go, but no forced perspective! That would have meant building an engine in the same forced perspective, a little too ambitious... The model will not be that big in 0-scale, the prototype was also enlarged before the pictures sere taken. So a somewhat shorter building would also be prototypical.
The Lyon Museum was a great inspiration, and if you ever have a chance to see it, take it.
Here are a few more pictures:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Flyon_w_2.jpg&hash=b8b11c5fc61d67136816b69b15efd22dd24d84b1)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Flyon_w_3.jpg&hash=bc1df95cd8f6853cb90f8beea4c307e277f3f274)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Flyon_w_4.jpg&hash=1f3a88b0b3197abe0e52c6585ceb9c6af9c21a67)
Hi Hauk, The long tunnel view certainly will look good and will emulate the feel of the museum's shadow boxes that you admire. It might be, however, that the various photographers chose the only view available for the engine house rather than the optimal view. There isn't a place they could stand to take in the interior width of the building.
Having seen the wonderful attention to details on your models, would much of that be lost 'looking down the tunnel' where all that machinery will be seen end on and far away? If one of the long side walls were removed instead of an end wall then all of the machinery and miscellany could be seen 'broadside'.
A question might be do you want to emphasize the physical size of the space or everything that is packed into it? Depending on where you made the cut, if it were just enough to remove the exterior wall you would have a foreground that is a row of machines to look over/through to see the rest of the interior. Or, if the slice were a little deeper, you would only have to model about half the machines - those along the far wall, but they could be better seen than in a tunnel view.
Be sure to include the traveling crane at work. The visual contrast between the arched trusses and the strong horizontal lines of the crane will delight the eyes.
I have started to make the CAD-files for the milling of the roof trusses jigs, nothing worth posting.
But I have also started to experiment with methods for making the concrete floor. The starting point is two articles in the 2013 Modellers Annual. (Marc Reusser´s article on the small garage, and the Mogadishu diorama.
Plaster with some gravel added, stained with Tamyia diluted with Tamiya thinners. Some pigment powder. I know that the rust along the track is a little on the heavy side, and that the oil stains are not very convincing. Other comments?
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fbetonggulv_test_W.jpg&hash=69d598677a99f18ed4fd3629ae1a4fe163f7b701)
Cracks? Other kinds of stains? Polished rail tops? And, in a workshop, would the concrete be darker overall from grime, dirty feet, and spills? -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on July 31, 2016, 11:36:55 AM
Cracks? Other kinds of stains? Polished rail tops? And, in a workshop, would the concrete be darker overall from grime, dirty feet, and spills? -- Russ
I think you are right on all the points except maybe for the polished rail tops. The track in the workshop gets relatively little use, so I think it might be a bit darker than outdoors on a track with heavy traffic.
Hauk,
I second what Russ said. And what you said about the polished rail heads. For sure rolling some wheelsets a few times over the burnished (?) rails will get close to the appearance of a shed track. Additionally to me the rust stains don't fit to well; I wouldn't expect to much brake dust in a shed, rather much more oil and grease dropping from axle boxes and gears. Concrete may benefit from some tonal variation and maybe the 'grain' is a bit to coarse for the scale. For the oil you may try some drawing ink, which builds up a bit and leaves a somewhat tarish surface, starting with thinned ink/washes and then changing to covering layers.
The following thoughts are only relevant, if you're going to model the floor in a meticulous prototypical manner. In your first picture it nearly looks like a tamped gravel floor around the pit or concrete is already heavily worn out. It looks like both pictures were taken at the same day?
Quote from: Hauk on July 27, 2016, 02:28:03 PM
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Finterior_verksted_2_w.jpg&hash=6576e00f5bd9563dc68135d64ebd22b6614a81e5)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Finterior_verksted_3_w.jpg&hash=b1bc678ccac2140c06cbc4b12edf7c1012113f01)
The usual vignol/flat bottom rails seem to be lowered in relation to the floor and there's a step made from timber in the first picture and from angle section (?) and timber in the second one. What ever reason there was for it, this gives a nice touch to the scene. The space between the rails again is lowered a bit (approx. flange height). Maybe this simply served as drain. To me the timber seems to be an important buffering element between the rails and the architectural structure. Especially the first picture shows some really interesting floor textures, giving a good impression of the rather rough work done here.
Volker
Sometimes with very light rail the tread of the wheel is much wider then the head of the rail. The wood is there to act as a soft surface to prevent tread damage which would happen without it. We didn't plan ahead when pouring the concrete floor in the East Broad Top Paint Shop in Rock Hill, Pa and are paying for it now as we rebiuld their antique railcars.
Quote from: Hydrostat on August 01, 2016, 01:36:05 AM
Hauk,
I second what Russ said. And what you said about the polished rail heads. For sure rolling some wheelsets a few times over the burnished (?) rails will get close to the appearance of a shed track. Additionally to me the rust stains don't fit to well; I wouldn't expect to much brake dust in a shed, rather much more oil and grease dropping from axle boxes and gears. Concrete may benefit from some tonal variation and maybe the 'grain' is a bit to coarse for the scale. For the oil you may try some drawing ink, which builds up a bit and leaves a somewhat tarish surface, starting with thinned ink/washes and then changing to covering layers.
The following thoughts are only relevant, if you're going to model the floor in a meticulous prototypical manner. In your first picture it nearly looks like a tamped gravel floor around the pit or concrete is already heavily worn out. It looks like both pictures were taken at the same day?
The usual vignol/flat bottom rails seem to be lowered in relation to the floor and there's a step made from timber in the first picture and from angle section (?) and timber in the second one. What ever reason there was for it, this gives a nice touch to the scene. The space between the rails again is lowered a bit (approx. flange height). Maybe this simply served as drain. To me the timber seems to be an important buffering element between the rails and the architectural structure. Especially the first picture shows some really interesting floor textures, giving a good impression of the rather rough work done here.
Volker
Good observations, Volker. I think that both pictures were taken by the same photographer on the same day/ same photosession.
One of the reasons for the rough surface is probably that the building was rebuilt prior to these photos. From the beginning it was used as a combined electric substation and workshop. At some point the transformers were moved, and the whole area converted into a workshop.
I have not really noticed it before, but if you take a closer look at the floor surface behind the back of the seated workman it is obvious that there have been some repair work done to the floor. Rather crude job, by the way.
Here are a couple of images of the building with the trafos still in place:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fverksted_trafostasjon_W.jpg&hash=4676daa2ce518968b2e188477036165ec6181ea2)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fverksted_trafostasjon_W_4.jpg&hash=dffe982db8125cafab095cef7f661dae6d8b5058)
Quite sloppy paintjob on the roof, check out the stains on the withewashed wall!
Last, here are some color images that might give an idea about the coloring of the floor:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fverksted_04.jpg&hash=336e33fb07ff4a3d7ab2209f472455999188d69a)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fverksted_03.jpg&hash=8f8d1d1f787abd177a307624424080a00a1c8cb0)
The 2 steam shed photos are of a different building. And, in the second photo you can see how the head of the rail stands proud of the concrete floor. That being said, the details are worth a close study as there is a wealth of detail in them which can be added to a scene such as the blocking for the wheel sets.
Please also note, in the last photo, it appears the locomotive is unpainted styrene. -- ssuR
Boy, do time fly...
Two years and not much progress, but just a post to keep the thread alive. I have finally started on the roof trusses. Not dramatic progress, but it is something!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2FMotorboggie%2Ftakstol_w_02.jpg&hash=bd9128b1a66931d98ab58052acf2b63345cfb811)
The milled jig might be a bit overkill, but I like to fool around with the CNC router at our local model railroad club. The main frame will be built in the milled jig, but then I will move the trusses to the more primitive jig in the background and add the smaller parts. The milled jig is just too tight for adding all the parts. Should have allowed for a little more slop in the milled channels. It is also a good idea to mill double-wide channels and use filler bits to hold the parts tight. You can see that I did this with the long, straight beams.
Thinking about it, the jig really paid off when I drilled the holes for the nbw-castings that are going to be installed in the curved, laminated beam.
Stunning stuff - I think its time for me to give up and take up fishing or something like an allotment !! or even stamp collecting !
Barney
Hauk, Nice to see this thread continued. Thanks, looks like a good start.
probably a little late for my "diagonal" vote, eh?
I was looking at the truss and thinking how difficult it would be to align components and drill holes. I wondered why you'd think using the CNC router was overkill. Then you reversed yourself and admitted it really paid off. When technology is available and helps you do something better or more easily, forget tradition and make use of the technology! -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on October 05, 2018, 12:40:10 AM
I was looking at the truss and thinking how difficult it would be to align components and drill holes. I wondered why you'd think using the CNC router was overkill. Then you reversed yourself and admitted it really paid off. When technology is available and helps you do something better or more easily, forget tradition and make use of the technology! -- Russ
Good point, Russ! I think the CNC router is a great tool, and the jig worked great for aligning the main timbers.
But sometimes I feel more like a computer operator than a modeller, and I get a bit frustrated that so much of my hobby time takes place in front of a PC screen. Just like at work...
Here's the simple reasoning behind our little dilemma, and we are fortunate to have the opportunity to confront it:
If you want a model as accurate as possible in every dimension, with everything square and straight, and prefer a more "perfect" appearance, you need to use computers and digital machine tools. If you prefer models with a more "artistic" and perhaps slightly imperfect appearance, build them more the old fashioned way, by hand.
We've all seen examples of each approach and my guess is none of us would say one way is better. So it's just a matter of personal preference and, if your preference is for the highest degree of accuracy, then you may have to spend more time at the computer.
Personally, I build to achieve the end result. The "journey" (for me) is nothing more than a way to get there and the quicker the better! (Hooray for computer!)
Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on October 06, 2018, 11:26:23 AM
Here's the simple reasoning behind our little dilemma, and we are fortunate to have the opportunity to confront it:
If you want a model as accurate as possible in every dimension, with everything square and straight, and prefer a more "perfect" appearance, you need to use computers and digital machine tools. If you prefer models with a more "artistic" and perhaps slightly imperfect appearance, build them more the old fashioned way, by hand.
We've all seen examples of each approach and my guess is none of us would say one way is better. So it's just a matter of personal preference and, if your preference is for the highest degree of accuracy, then you may have to spend more time at the computer.
Personally, I build to achieve the end result. The "journey" (for me) is nothing more than a way to get there and the quicker the better! (Hooray for computer!)
Russ
Interesting point, Russ. I am also a "By Any Means Neccesary" modeller, and I use a lot of technological shortcuts. Without the possibility of CAD-designed artwork for etchings, I would probably not be building models at all. And that I thought the CNC-machined jigs were utterly BS. In fact, it was absolutely essential to have a precise and solid jig where the parts could be pressed into shape when the glue dried. It took a lot of force to make tight joints at the end of the curved beams.
Had a rather productive weekend so far. The woodwork for four trusses were completed tonight, and the frame of a fifth one is in the jig.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftakstol_04_w.jpg&hash=8d2a658b0f38342eb88dd80d30042e048c518964)
Speaking of building by hand, it is funny how you have to get back in shape when you don´t do any modelling for some months. The last trusses I finished are far better than the first.
By the way, here is one of my favourite tools for shaping wood:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fpussing_01.jpg&hash=eea80bc8759c70a241a7dd470149e7aef4868536)
A 12" sander might seem large for modelling, but I really hate the small hobby-sanders. I had a yellow and green disk sander from a German company, and it really sucked. I feel it is easier to do precision work on heftier machines, and the size is no drawback at all. I use double-sided tape to fasten aluminium profile guides on the table. The small piece of MDF is for supporting small parts while sanding. I often work with really small parts on the sander, and at times my nails get a little shorter in the process. This might seem like a dangerous practice, and maybe I should not advocate it... But a sander is an entirely different beast than for instance a table saw. I have by accident touched the sanding disk while the machine is running, but no blood has ever been drawn.
This is a fixture I made many years ago to build small wooden spoked wheels. The parts of the wheel fit tightly in place and fitted to the hub. The rims and tires are mounted on the ends of the spokes to complete the wheel. Missing in the pictures is the flat inserts that fit in the large slots over the eject pins. Also I used small pins to fit to the outside diameter of the wheel. A spacer is placed between the two plates during assembly and once the wheels assembled the spacer is removed and the wheels and hub (nave) are raised from the fixture when the plates are closed. I have used a similar fixture when I had to build 200 trusses for a commercial sawmill model.
Bill Hudson
Hauk, two years, what's your hurry? Trusses are looking good!
I have the same thoughts. I have become dependent on 3D printed parts and sometimes I just can't make progress because of needing to sit in front of the computer after sitting in front of one all day.
My disk sander is indispensable once I get to the workbench (i.e., once I leave the computer). Many years ago I asked two top modelers, Doug Heitkamp and Richard Christ, what they considered their most used machine tools. Both chose the disk sander.
Bill, that is a clever and sophisticated little fixture. I could never figure out how to design something like that.
Russ
Quote from: 5thwheel on October 06, 2018, 07:01:30 PM
This is a fixture I made many years ago to build small wooden spoked wheels.
Wow! I dont even understand how that impressing looking thing works! What is the function of the holes neatly lined up in curves? Is it for making wheels of different sizes?
Quote from: Hauk on October 07, 2018, 06:48:09 AM
Quote from: 5thwheel on October 06, 2018, 07:01:30 PM
This is a fixture I made many years ago to build small wooden spoked wheels.
Wow! I dont even understand how that impressing looking thing works! What is the function of the holes neatly lined up in curves? Is it for making wheels of different sizes?
Yes the spiral holes are for locating pins for different diameter of wheels. For trusses: I clamped two plates together and drilled holes at four corners and installed pins solid in bottom plate. Need to ream out the top plate holes a bit to allow for a slip fit. Then mill the patterns for the truss. At key joints I drilled holes through the plates (again ream out the top plate holes holes. Put a spacer block between the two plates so that the pins are just flush or a little lower than the joints. Assemble your truss and when glue is dry remove the spacer block and carefully push the top plate down. The pins push up on the bottom of the joints and help remove the truss in one level.
Closeups are great for checking the quality of your work. The wood is a bit on the fuzzy side, so a little light sanding might be in order.
Those Grandt Line NBWS look the part as always. Sad to see that Grandt Line closed down recently. O, the things we took for Gran(d)ted. Sic Transit Gloria Mundi. But I was lucky that several hundreds of just this typeof NBWS in my stock. They are spot on for the type used on the prototype.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftakstol_05_w.jpg&hash=fbf0288c59d9c21f110061ef7321c0a1a97432cd)
yes Hauk, even with glasses you can not see what a macro shot shows mercilessly. Your macro shot shows only good.
It's funny, the first thing that came to my mind when I saw your jig for the trusses, was, "I wish I had the means to make jigs like that!" :)
From a modeling standpoint, a good jig is worth its weight in gold, regardless of what tool you used to make it.
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on October 08, 2018, 11:57:00 PM
It's funny, the first thing that came to my mind when I saw your jig for the trusses, was, "I wish I had the means to make jigs like that!" :)
From a modeling standpoint, a good jig is worth its weight in gold, regardless of what tool you used to make it.
When you have access to to a CNC-router, you never run out of ideas for what it can be used for. And I can see that I will make a few more jigs during this project. First up is a jig for the trusses on the fantry crane.
Regarding the fixtures for the roof trusses, I find them more and more useful. Especially the joints involving the curved beams requiers an incredible amount of pressure to make a tight glue joint. Even if I pre-bent the stripwood, it does not hold the curve on it is own. The double-width channels used with filler blocks works especially well. Wich was a nice surprise, as they were almost included in the design by accident. This concept combined with the precise angels you get on a good disk sander makes for really tight joints:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftakstol_06_w.jpg&hash=f6d662f35eb34a6b0e4f64f053e70e7a2ca60746)
Next up, installing the steel rods:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftakstol_09_w.jpg&hash=fef7bc9cb5f5c35710d80d02cde93f4246b2e4e7)
0.6mm nickle silver rod blackened with Birchwood Casey.
Quite a challenge to line up the holes in the upper and lower beams. It will take some evenings to get all trusses done...
While artistically the patina on the washers under the bolts on the trusses looks pleasing, the burnishing on them would only come from regular contact with another surface. Any undisturbed metal develops a uniform coat of oxide (rust) as a reaction to its environment. Otherwise, the trusses are spectacular. Once installed don't forget to add soot, dust, and bird droppings along the upper surfaces of them.
Quote from: Lawton Maner on October 18, 2018, 06:42:06 AM
While artistically the patina on the washers under the bolts on the trusses looks pleasing, the burnishing on them would only come from regular contact with another surface. Any undisturbed metal develops a uniform coat of oxide (rust) as a reaction to its environment. Otherwise, the trusses are spectacular. Once installed don't forget to add soot, dust, and bird droppings along the upper surfaces of them.
I agree that the shine has to go. The shine on the bolts is purely coincidental, they were painted years ago. I will add some final weathering when the trusses are completed to blend everything together. The strengthening rods are also too shiny. They were wiped to get rid of the black crud that I am never able to avoid completely during the blackening process, and this polishes the nickle silver somewhat. I am also not entirely sure about the brown color of the wood, so some adjusting with sanding and restaining might also be neccesary. It is a bit frustrating that I have no idea how the wood was painted/impregnated. It is just my guess that they were brown.
How much soot and bird droppings to add might be open to debate. I dont know if the single steam switcher Thamsahavnbanen operated ever were allowed into the machine shop under steam. But writing this it strikes me that there is no overhead wire in the shop, so they must have used some kind of switcher to move the electric engines in and out. Regarding droppings, I can see no sign of them in the pictures, so maybe they were able to keep the birdies out.
Hi Hauk
Very impressiv, clean work! In general, the whole construction looks very attractive. Could it be that this is the only forum, where we can discuss bird droppings and shiny bolts? That's why I love this forum so!
By the way, concerning my own project, I have never ever played with the idea, that there could have been some traces of bird droppings on the upper surfaces. I have to check this soon!
The shine on the bolts struck me immediately too. But I am not sure if I would have mentioned that as I am struggeling in that subject too... ;D And they also look very nice that way!
Quote from: Peter_T1958 on October 18, 2018, 10:31:55 AM
Hi Hauk
Very impressiv, clean work! In general, the whole construction looks very attractive. Could it be that this is the only forum, where we can discuss bird droppings and shiny bolts? That's why I love this forum so!
By the way, concerning my own project, I have never ever played with the idea, that there could have been some traces of bird droppings on the upper surfaces. I have to check this soon!
The shine on the bolts struck me immediately too. But I am not sure if I would have mentioned that as I am struggeling in that subject too... ;D And they also look very nice that way!
Thanks for the thumbs up!
I agree that this is one of the very few forums were you can get constructive comments from some of the most talented modellers around.
I am not sure that I would have thought about the shine on the bolts myself, and keep such criticism coming!
By the way, I really did not think that a couple of roof trusses could take so much time. Marking out the exact location for the holes for the nickle silver rods is a pain in the A, and I have not found a good method for boring the holes at the precise angles.
The rods are all at slightly different angles, and small differences between the different trusses makes it hard to design a useful jig.
It does not help that my large pillar drill is an rather crude contraption. Maybe I will have to take the work to the local MR club where we have a very precise pillar drill.
Well, enough trivial stories from the workshop for this time.
Hauk, your carpentry construction looks very interesting. I admit the drilling of the holes is not so without and will surely only succeed with a good column drill after precise alignment. Only how will it have happened in reality the carpenter probably simply took a hand drill and drilled the holes in a sense of proportion. This will of course have the consequence that the binders have small differences. The binder construction is built on a stencil like this on the timber place. But I also find it absolutely OK to discuss trifles and that is not enough for us.
First, for aligning the holes for the truss rods make a spade drill out of the proper size piano wire. Then you can lay the trusses on a paper template and use lines on it to guide the bit. Small pieces of plastic could be used as guides to make sure the boring runs true.
As for the color of the trusses, the wood would have oxidized over the years from exposure to air. Find an old attic truss and see how the wood has aged. Pine starts out as a pale yellow/orange and darkens to a more reddish/brown tint. White oak will blacken over time most markedly in a barn where there are ammonia fumes from the animal waste. Knowing what the chemical environment of the surroundings can help with predicting how wood will react. There would always be some dirt on them from the airborn material from the work in the shop.
That is outstanding information. -- Russ
Quote from: Lawton Maner on October 21, 2018, 08:50:55 AM
As for the color of the trusses, the wood would have oxidized over the years from exposure to air. Find an old attic truss and see how the wood has aged. Pine starts out as a pale yellow/orange and darkens to a more reddish/brown tint. White oak will blacken over time most markedly in a barn where there are ammonia fumes from the animal waste. Knowing what the chemical environment of the surroundings can help with predicting how wood will react. There would always be some dirt on them from the airborn material from the work in the shop.
Interesting information!
But it is very likely that the wood was treated with some kind of paint or impregnation when the workshop was built. Take a look at these two picture taken right after the building was finished (in the early years about half of the space was used for an electrical substation):
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2FThamshavn_omformer_02.jpg&hash=f85de96aedf2151b9388bb61664fb6415715656a)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2FThamshavn_omformer.jpg&hash=3d2d3b75d0e9ff3ae09dfe924d6178304bc99319)
In the second one, you can clearly see that something har runned down on the walls.
But I can only guess at what it is. I hope it is something brownish...
I'm glad to help. Finally some of the more esoteric knowledge from my college classes in wood morphology is being put to use.
We've all seen how an outdoor environment changes the color of wood. Moisture and warmth encourages the growth of mould which darkens wood. Sunlight will bleach it, and windblown dirt will erode it.
An indoor environment is trickier because the wood is protected from moisture and sunlight and changes are subject to more subtle forces. Once the moisture content of wood is below about 18% there is little likelihood of mould growth so unless there is a leak in the roof or uses of the building which generate moisture (such as a dairy barn) all changes over time will come from other sources. A furniture factory will have a totally different interior climate from a railroad car repair shop for example.
In the last picture the streaks on the upper section of the wall might be tar from a roof repair.
I value all input and suggestions, and it is incredible what people on this forum knows!
Regarding the stains, they could very well be stains from repair work. At some time in the twenties the skylights in the roof were covered with tarpaper, and I would guess this was due to leakages in the roof. It is plausible that more repairwork was done around the same time.
But I still think the inside of the roof was painted or stained. This could also have been for esthetic reasons. In the early years the Railroad did a lot of things for purely estetic purposes. For instance, all poles for the overhead wire were painted white for the opening.
Back to the drilling of the holes for the rods, I made a simple jig for drilling the holes in the upper beams:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fborrejigg_takstoler_W.jpg&hash=ef35bf381eb5b4804a9001f791fb4cb15bc132ae)
For the holes on the underside I used an even simpler "jig". The trusses were held in position between to absolutely square pieces of MDF. It was quite simple to line up the centerline of the rods and to hold everything in place by hand while drilling:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fborrejigg_takstoler2_W.jpg&hash=92f34fc14e62a3fb6c2f2e82ce6d0cfe6710dafe)
While I am happy that the roof trusses are finished, I am not too pleased with the overall precision of the parts. I should have paid more attention in the early stages of construction to ensure that the roof trusses where identical and with tight and prescise joints. When you line up all the trusses, every imperfect angle is easy to see:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftakstol_10_w.jpg&hash=4d05c6b83c219e3f80b9bf667b9abfbde20f46b9)
But when the diorama is finished I count on that the roof trusses will fade into the background and no one will notice the imperfections. Too much work to start over!
I can't see the imperfections as I look at the photos. Maybe they are less obvious than they seem at this stage. I also think your jig may look simple but actually is pretty sophisticated. Few of us have the tools to create one like that. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on October 23, 2018, 12:03:21 PM
I can't see the imperfections as I look at the photos. Maybe they are less obvious than they seem at this stage. I also think your jig may look simple but actually is pretty sophisticated. Few of us have the tools to create one like that. -- Russ
Good to hear that you cant see the imperfections! And when everything is in place there will hopefully be more interesting things to look on than the roof rafters. Maybe even a CHB/SierraWest lathe if I am lucky in the eBay auction the coming weekend...
Regarding the jig, the only machine tool involved was the disk sander. I really think it is the most useful powertool in my workshop
Hauk, I can't speak about roof trusses, but recently I watched a documentary on rebuilding the the world's longest single span covered bridge in upstate New York. The original was washed out in a flood after a major storm. The company building the new replica had to assemble the new timber frame on a open, flat piece of land parallel to the water near the old bridge and then turn the the whole frame almost 90 degrees to be able to maneuver it onto the original abutments.
Craftsman were shaving 100ths of an inch from the mortice & tenon joints, so their work was very precise, yet when they rotated the bridge they had miscalculated and had to stop and add additional fill in one area and cut down part of an embankment in another spot to get it into position. What I'm hinting at is even if the craftsman who built the trusses you are modeling were just as careful, over time stresses would shift things around a bit. I don't see any discrepancies.
Lawton is right about different species of wood weathering quite differently under different environmental conditions. On my monitor the color of your trusses in the two photos of your drilling jig look very much like the color of timbers in some hay barns and lumber sheds that I have seen. Perhaps the lighter areas on the trusses could be a little darker and less yellow, but the general color looks good. A touch of weathering should serve nicely.
Looks great to me. Whatever discrepancies might exist are minor and will likely not be noticeable at all once the model is complete.
Thanks for the encouragement!
For the moment I am wondering what material to use for the walls. I will need a board of some sort that is stiff and light, and can either be milled or lasercut. It can not be a sandwich type of material (no foamcore or Kapa-board or such things) as the reveals for the windows will be quite visible and must have the exact same finish as the walls. As it might be necessary to cover the walls with some waterbased compund to give color and texture, the material should not buckle if it is exposed to moisture. As the reveals for the windows are about 8 mm , this is the thickness required. Suggestions?
I would also like suggestions for the painting of the walls. We are talking plastered brick, and as you can see in the prototype pictures, it is quite rough in places. There are also lime deposits showing. So it is probably not good enough to just airbrush the interior with matte paint. Some texture is needed, but how to make it? Talcum powder in wet paint? Plaster dusting or something?
I will of course dive into my collection of Modellers Annuals, I think there is no other magazine or book that has covered this topic in more depth.
But I would really enjoy a discussion on the subject here on the forum! As this probably could be of interest independent of this thread, I will of course not mind if the discussion branches off in a separate thread.
Hauk, Look into acrylic sheet for your walls. It is much less likely to warp than styrene and it can be cleanly laser cut. it is easily glued. It is stable and will not warp when wet. The surface can be laser engraved, which may be a way to create the surface texture that you need. (I have seen laser engraved "sidewalks" made by CMR, the link listed below, that had a variety of surface textures and cracks much finer than anything engraved with hand tools.)
Acrylic comes in Cast and Extruded sheets. Both can be laser cut, but there are differences to consider.
Here is a link to making architectural models using acrylic sheet that can give your laser friend an introduction to cutting acrylic:
https://www.instructables.com/id/Architectural-Model-Making-Using-A-Laser-Cutter/
To see a wide range of what can be done with acrylic, here is a link to a company, CMR, that makes elaborate models for model railroads from acrylic:
http://www.custommodelrailroads.com/cmr-train-kits.html
Acrylite is one brand of acrylic sheet and here is a table of available thicknesses and thickness tolerances. The table for Acrylite GP (cast) sheet lists one available thickness at 7.9mm, very close to what you want.
https://www.eplastics.com/blog/thickness-tolerance-plexiglass-acrylic-sheet
Plexiglas is another common brand in the U.S. Perspex is a high quality acrylic made by Lucite.
Depending on how much you need, you might be able to get end cuts from a sign shop.
As for the surface finish there was an artist's compound suggested for imitating stucco on this forum about a year ago. It is water based, about the thickness of sour cream, and has a very fine sand mixed into it. I don't know where you live, but the Micheal's here in Williamsburg has it on the shelf.
Hauk,
Forex (German brand) is a millable pvc based material which comes in different thicknesses. If sprayed with a plastic primer it can be colored with usual wall paint for example. I tend to rather dab paint to the surface to avoid brush traces. I think at your scale there'll be enough texture from the rough wall paint pigments and the unevenness of the dabbed on color.
Cheers,
Volker
Thanks for all the sugggestions for wall materials. I should perhaps have mentioned that weight is a concern, as it would be fun to show the diorama at a modellers exhibition in the future. So milling the walls from Forex seems like a good option.
Regarding machinery for the shop, I won the auction for three CHB/SierraWest machines on eBay, and with Paul´s offer for the milling machine, I have four machines secured for the scene.
That will have to do. In addition, I think that a scratchbuilt wheel lathe would be a great addition to the scene. I really like the look of the wheelset hanging from the gantry crane in one of the prototype photos.
I found a great picture of a similiar lathe in a Swedish workshop:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fwheel_lathe_proto.jpg&hash=b346193f4cede169fc0f1c82da5ed4f8d2e0cdcd)
But if anyone has additional information (pictures or drawings), I would be very interested!
Googling for images of old machine shops I found this nice picture:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fmachineshop_sweden.jpg&hash=b5148f4c1c2dcfe41340fb981ccd0bbd77bb1cae)
It is not "my" workshop, I am quite happy that I do not need that many machines!
The next time you are near by, give me a heads up and I'll arrange for a tour of the East Broad Top shops in Rockhill Frunace and allow you to fondle a wheel lathe and other belt driven machinery which all still work.
Quote from: Hauk on October 27, 2018, 06:52:20 AM
Googling for images of old machine shops I found this nice picture:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fmachineshop_sweden.jpg&hash=b5148f4c1c2dcfe41340fb981ccd0bbd77bb1cae)
Wow, that's a lot of drive belts!!
Some progress on the roof trusses:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftakstoler_2.jpg&hash=a9029b97fc22a991d5d8f5144f766e23aa2b32ea)
Several hundred GrandtLine nbws have been installed. I could not really believe my luck when I found around 600 of just the right type of nbws in one of my drawers!
Recently I also found a little piece of prototype information for the workshop. In this picture it is obvious that there is a round window high up on the wall in the back:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Finterior_verksted_3_w.jpg&hash=b1bc678ccac2140c06cbc4b12edf7c1012113f01)
But i had no I idea what it looked like, as I have no drawings of the original building. But then I found this image in a database online:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fverksted_vei.jpg&hash=ef6ae97b81750062488a31266d5e01db66d993b1)
To my surprise it was possible to zoom in on the image to an extreme degree:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fverksted_vei_utsnitt.jpg&hash=62ddad6daff73031b7d926436e3e4d57ca14565e)
Examining the image close up it was possible to see the design on the window in question. It is of a quite unusual design of circles inside a circle, and I could never have guessed how it looked. Not exactly an earth-shattering discovery, but it is small discoveries like this that makes research fun.
Hauk, Finding the details of that round window is a terrific bit of tenacity and luck. I love it when some detail I have almost given up looking for unexpectedly shows up.
Now when you build that window you'll KNOW it is correct, and that feels good.
Quote from: Bill Gill on November 13, 2018, 12:40:30 PM
Hauk, Finding the details of that round window is a terrific bit of tenacity and luck. I love it when some detail I have almost given up looking for unexpectedly shows up.
Now when you build that window you'll KNOW it is correct, and that feels good.
Its a nice little detail. Especially since I am thinking that the completed scene will have a slightly cathedral-like mood. That window would not look out of place in a church!
Everything is looking good! Nice find on the window; I usually discover info like that after I have built it.
Very Nice stuff this excellent detail - York Model Making at www.yorkmodelmaking.co.uk do a nice range of ornate church windows of various styles and sizes - nice quality to
Barney
Or, Chuck, someone who has been hording the one piece of information you need waits until you publish the article and then uses it to prove that your carefully researched work has come to the wrong conclusion.
Back at the start of this "round window" discussion, the interior photo shows what appears to be some kind of motor up on a shelf on the right side. It looks as though it powers a lathe down on the floor via flat belt, but what caught my eye was the fact that there are no jackshafts in the building and the lathe appears to be the only one powered in this manner. It also interests me that whatever kind of motor this is appears to have a flywheel. I'm guessing the motor is electric, but why the flywheel?
Quote from: Seattle Dave on November 18, 2018, 10:25:30 AM
Back at the start of this "round window" discussion, the interior photo shows what appears to be some kind of motor up on a shelf on the right side. It looks as though it powers a lathe down on the floor via flat belt, but what caught my eye was the fact that there are no jackshafts in the building and the lathe appears to be the only one powered in this manner. It also interests me that whatever kind of motor this is appears to have a flywheel. I'm guessing the motor is electric, but why the flywheel?
I don't believe that is a flywheel. It looks like a large diameter pulley. There I see a second belt coming down but smaller. It looks like the shaft from the mottor extends down a couple more windows. I see what looks like a belt down there.
Quote from: Hydrostat on October 24, 2018, 10:21:18 AM
Hauk,
Forex (German brand) is a millable pvc based material which comes in different thicknesses. If sprayed with a plastic primer it can be colored with usual wall paint for example. I tend to rather dab paint to the surface to avoid brush traces. I think at your scale there'll be enough texture from the rough wall paint pigments and the unevenness of the dabbed on color.
Cheers,
Volker
Volker, do you have a source for Forex?
I am having trouble finding a webshop that does not charge an arm and a leg to send some sheets to Norway.
"Its a nice little detail. Especially since I am thinking that the completed scene will have a slightly cathedral-like mood. That window would not look out of place in a church!" Hauk
Over here you never know what architectural styles will get mashed together. Here's a recently renovated restaurant I stumbled on here in a small old city in coastal New England :)
Quote from: Hauk on November 30, 2018, 01:29:02 PM
Quote from: Hydrostat on October 24, 2018, 10:21:18 AM
Hauk,
Forex (German brand) is a millable pvc based material which comes in different thicknesses. If sprayed with a plastic primer it can be colored with usual wall paint for example. I tend to rather dab paint to the surface to avoid brush traces. I think at your scale there'll be enough texture from the rough wall paint pigments and the unevenness of the dabbed on color.
Cheers,
Volker
Volker, do you have a source for Forex?
I am having trouble finding a webshop that does not charge an arm and a leg to send some sheets to Norway.
Hauk,
I usually buy it at a local craft store. It's the same material sign makers tend to use for building site advertisements and so on. Sometimes they sell their residues for little money or even give it away instead of binning it.
Howsoever here's an online-shop with some variety https://www.architekturbedarf.de/plastics/forex/1 (https://www.architekturbedarf.de/plastics/forex/1) which ships for € 19,95 to Norway: https://www.architekturbedarf.de/versand (https://www.architekturbedarf.de/versand). I'd love to buy it and then send it to you, but shipment to Norway would be more expensive than the shop's shipment costs!
I wasn't able to locate a vendor in Norway, but you may ask here https://www.thyssenkrupp-plastics.de/unternehmen/locations-in-europe/ (https://www.thyssenkrupp-plastics.de/unternehmen/locations-in-europe/)
Cheers
Volker
Quote from: Hydrostat on December 01, 2018, 05:59:41 AM
I usually buy it at a local craft store. It's the same material sign makers tend to use for building site advertisements and so on. Sometimes they sell their residues for little money or even give it away instead of binning it.
Howsoever here's an online-shop with some variety https://www.architekturbedarf.de/plastics/forex/1 (https://www.architekturbedarf.de/plastics/forex/1) which ships for € 19,95 to Norway: https://www.architekturbedarf.de/versand (https://www.architekturbedarf.de/versand). I'd love to buy it and then send it to you, but shipment to Norway would be more expensive than the shop's shipment costs!
Thanks a lot for the tip, Volker!
The postage is reasonable, and the price for the material itself is very good.
Even if I googled extensively, I did not find that particular webshop.
For glueing: I use UHU Plast Special https://www.architekturbedarf.de/plastics/uhu-plast-special-30g-with-dosing-head (https://www.architekturbedarf.de/plastics/uhu-plast-special-30g-with-dosing-head), sometimes thinned with dichloromethane (available at drugstores, but be careful, it's biohazard and carcinogenic). It's very thin and glues PVC to most other plastics like styrene, PA and so on.
You know you have been lazy when this pop up in your most active building thread:
"Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic."
But finally an image of some real modelling progress:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ffagverk_01_W.jpg&hash=641d899e62082da7d0a5555ed79ffdebb96d7853)
This is a girder for the gantry crane. The connector plates are custom etched by PPD ltd in Scotland. I can not praise their etching service highly enough.
Gorgeous work. -- Russ
Will you be soldering those plates w/ rivets in place? Will you be turning the heads with burr or will you have already made rivets? Looks like a lot of work ahead to assemble this.
Oh, yes there will be rivets!
I use turned brass rivets from several different sources (including Scale Hardware, me thinks). And it is really not that much work.
Four evenings of work got me this far:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftravers_01_w.jpg&hash=863ed3c30d58ff6994e8819f7f1b6d265162a2e9)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftravers_02_w.jpg&hash=bfb23e0fa6c8e151b5c7b029a5625f6992a6f420)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftravers_03_w.jpg&hash=5c728f41d81f4f99c0cc8d7eb082ebeae2ecbdee)
Wow! Awesome work!
Hauk
I will need build you a small rivet press to punch the "rivets" into the etches; would save you a lot of time and ....................... lots of money.
having said that the work as always is superb.
Bernard S
Quote from: narrowgauger on October 23, 2019, 09:52:36 PM
Hauk
I will need build you a small rivet press to punch the "rivets" into the etches; would save you a lot of time and ....................... lots of money.
having said that the work as always is superb.
Bernard S
An very generous offer! ;)
But I just love those turned rivets... To me, they look far better than punched rivets, and they add to the structural integrity of the model. I will also try to make a few real riveted connections to keep everything firmly together during further construction.
The rivets cost a little (app. 8 cent a piece), but it is an indulgence I treat myself to!
But if you ask my shrink, he will probably claim it has something to do with not having a toy like this as a kid:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fbankebrett2.jpg&hash=7a3830ac2f4b728a9ca39b23467041e79baeb96f)
Hello Hauk,
again impressive what you're doing. I can confirm to you I also love the studs inserted. I also use wires, which I then round off from both sides. This has the advantage that the rivet heads on both sides are the same size and thus look even better as really riveted.
Quote from: Hauk on October 23, 2019, 03:09:43 PM
Oh, yes there will be rivets!
I use turned brass rivets from several different sources (including Scale Hardware, me thinks). And it is really not that much work.
Beautiful Hauk. I also use Scale Hardware nuts and rivets. Spendy, as you say but save a lot of additional hand work.
Bill Hudson
Lovely work. Will make an outstanding diorama in the end.
Jaime
Thanks to all fort the encouraging comments!
This is what the gantry crane looks like at the moment:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftravers_06_w.jpg&hash=3d8b625687b37386c4a8a88efb9e1627ad3d092c)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftravers_05_w.jpg&hash=655315152c329e1ef9fdcd4b8fbb134c192122cc)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftravers_04_w.jpg&hash=2d84e3afc529f2a2073303594332fc5b28a30265)
I am quite happy with the look of it, but I wonder sometimes if it is really worth all the effort. It have taken far longer to build the damn thing than I ever imagined.
WOW! That looks amazing!
None of what we do is worth the effort ... except to US. I doubt anyone here would say you should have taken shortcuts. Because you did what you felt necessary, the gantry is as perfect as its scale permits. In other words, it is most satisfactory. -- Russ
Hauk, this is really impressive. I did my apprenticeship in a company that built such cranes. There I saw many drawings of such old cranes in the archives. Unfortunately I didn't make any copies at that time.
Bernhard
Quote from: finescalerr on December 14, 2019, 11:59:54 PM
None of what we do is worth the effort ... except to US. I doubt anyone here would say you should have taken shortcuts. Because you did what you felt necessary, the gantry is as perfect as its scale permits. In other words, it is most satisfactory. -- Russ
You are right as usual, Russ.
I forgot for a moment that this is the sort of modeling that makes me happy. I just have to fight the occasional urge to be a rational person that uses his spare time for something of value for mankind.
Truth be told; I think that gantry is starting to look damn cool! ;D
I agree, Hauk, the gantry is starting to look damn cool!
Bernard:
To use Russ' words: "go stand in the corner". While there write 100 times "I must ALWAYS make copies".
As an observer of old buildings I always have my camera with me. Close friends accuse me of taking my camera with me to the Head. Not true, by close. Always document because the next time you are there it might be a vacant lot. I learned that lesson when and old mill town building in Pennsylvania disappeared between FEBT work sessions.
Then there is the publish rule: Once you publish an article with only 90% of the data needed someone will share something he has been hiding just so he can prove you wrong.
Hauk, not finished yet, but already to see that it has to be exelented.
In addition, I had to experience that unfortunately you have always copied and collected the wrong one and what you really need is always missing.
Lawton, I just got back from the corner. In my defence, however, I must say that was 48 years ago. And then I had other interests.
Come to think about it, I DID take a shortcut with my model.
The prototype does still exist, and I had the opportunity to photograph it. But I decided not to try and measure it. Both because it would stretch the goodwill of the people that allowed me access to the workshop, and that I felt it was possible to estimate the dimensions from pictures and a good section drawing of the building.
Have we discussed what to use for steel wire in a model?
I need a product that will hang straight, nothing spoils the illusion like a crane hook that does not have the weight to pull a cable straight.
I think I will go for something that simulates a stranded steel cable, even if you look closely at the enclosed picture, it looks like they used something else for the crane.
Hauk, I overlooked the toy-tool with hammer and bench with plastic pegs that inspired you to do all the rivets. Obviously it had a strong influence on you as a child :)
I have seen very thin stranded cable in the jewelry section of craft stores. Could a piece of it be hung vertically with sufficient weight to hold it straight and then keep it straight with thin cyanoacrylate glue before cutting it to the length you need?
Hello Hauk, such cranes used to use chains mostly and a very nice fine chain, which I also like to use, is available here (https://www.weinert-bauteile.de/weinert-modellbau-9318-1:87-kette-1m-lang-0-25mm-stark-ankerform-gel%C3%B6tet-br%C3%BCniert-weinert-9318,art-27945).
Look here: http://www.steba.org/ (http://www.steba.org/)
In the catalogue on page 32 there are very fine stainless steel ropes, which are composed of several strands. They are very flexible. I also used them for my bucket chain excavator.
Bernhard
Quote from: Bernhard on December 16, 2019, 05:19:21 AM
Look here: http://www.steba.org/ (http://www.steba.org/)
In the catalogue on page 32 there are very fine stainless steel ropes, which are composed of several strands. They are very flexible. I also used them for my bucket chain excavator.
Bernhard
Thanks a lot for the link, Bernhard! A lot of potentially useful stuff.
Quote from: Design-HSB on December 16, 2019, 05:16:37 AM
Hello Hauk, such cranes used to use chains mostly and a very nice fine chain, which I also like to use, is available here (https://www.weinert-bauteile.de/weinert-modellbau-9318-1:87-kette-1m-lang-0-25mm-stark-ankerform-gel%C3%B6tet-br%C3%BCniert-weinert-9318,art-27945).
From the picture it looks like they used netiher a wire or a chain. It looks more like a belt of some sort. But even if that is correct, it is so counterintuitive that most viewers of the model will think it is an error. So I will go for a chain or a wire.
And in my opinion, a very fine chain might look best.
Hauk, I made various tests for my bridge crane. The original steel ropes are unfortunately too stiff if they have the exemplary strength. I also work successfully with these chains. However, not yet via rolls, these would have to be adapted to the chain profile in any case, this is the case with the original. As a rope, scale rope from an old radio is also new at E-bay. I dye the sail with pickle steel grey. As an example (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cf3Tz1pOWEw) my bridge crane on my "Klosterstollen".
Bernard:
No excuse. Never let girls distract from what is really important. ;D ;D
My note taking with cameras kept Kodak solvent for years. There are 25 binders of contact sheets and negatives in my office going back to my college years.
I had hoped to make more progress during the holiday, but celebrating christmas takes some serious time :)
But here are a couple of images that proves that at least some time has been spent in the workshop:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fdeler_kran.jpg&hash=48da8be355abb71208fd93b3deea4d4884279763)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftravers.jpg&hash=27d84a4e01b8b926fcc95923b3e0687497ac9659)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftravers2.jpg&hash=e8f5a6b02d338c180a4fb1993724234e7d30edea)
And ff course my new year´s resolution is to get more modeling done!
Wow! Looks like it was built by miniature steel workers in a miniature machine shop!
That is pure gorgeous!
Wow that is some excellent work!
Jerry
Most satisfactory. -- Russ
Nice work! The steel construction with the gusset plates is very impressive.
Bernhard
Thanks for all the encouragement!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftravers_hand_2.jpg&hash=7a01ebf6432a98902ba6507ac6d654df54a6dd5d)
See? That took hardly any work at all! -- ssuR
Grone - spit & a cough - but it looks great !!
Barney
Wow!
Congratulations Hauk,
very delicate work.
Thank you for showing.
And again it has been more than 120 days since an update...
But I am puttering away on my little creation. An awful lot of time was spent figuring out the guardrails for the track in the floor. Finally I figured out that the rails had angles on the outside. Between the layers the floor was lower. I think this was done to make it possible to cover the track and the maintenance pit entirely when the track was not in use.
So I ended up making track with brass ties on the outside. The ties will also support the boards running on the outside of the maintenance pit. It looks strange but it will all be covered up, of course.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fspor_verksted_w.jpg&hash=5c7534894dcfbce74d7aa754052df3320e1d5c3f)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fspor_verksted5_w.jpg&hash=0c87759240da6af1e3d1f393ce8d2a748a24ef71)
The plan is to cast the floor in plaster, and to keep it from coming loose from the rather smooth Forex subfloor I have stapled done some "rebars". This might be a bad Idea, as it struck me that the staples might rust and bleed through the plaster. Have to do a test pour, I think.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Farmering_gulv_w.jpg&hash=c355a24e16584af25e0f40da4f2cffed32155fa6)
A little test to se how the elements will fit together:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftestoppsett_w.jpg&hash=7c770dd526cfb772975699f8f09b6de22dd2fa46)
Thanks for looking!
WOW! -- Russ
Hauk,
this is some beautiful fabrication! I don't think there's going to be a problem with the plaster rebars. I used plaster on rigid foam for the street segments of Quiet Earth and never had any problems. But you're right, iron does rust immediately and bleed within plaster, but you can color it afterwards. Howsoever for different reasons I don't use plaster for this purpose anymore, first of all because every tiny scratch is going to leave a miscolored white line. Meanwhile I'm using 'Molto Holz Feinspachtel', mixed with pigments, stone dust and water to some kneadable consistency. It gives a very fine surface, and if kept moistured you have a lot of time to treat the surface. Once dry it is maby times tougher than plaster.
Cheers,
Volker
Quote from: Hydrostat on February 10, 2021, 12:43:14 PM
Hauk,
this is some beautiful fabrication! I don't think there's going to be a problem with the plaster rebars. I used plaster on rigid foam for the street segments of Quiet Earth and never had any problems. But you're right, iron does rust immediately and bleed within plaster, but you can color it afterwards. Howsoever for different reasons I don't use plaster for this purpose anymore, first of all because every tiny scratch is going to leave a miscolored white line. Meanwhile I'm using 'Molto Holz Feinspachtel', mixed with pigments, stone dust and water to some kneadable consistency. It gives a very fine surface, and if kept moistured you have a lot of time to treat the surface. Once dry it is maby times tougher than plaster.
Cheers,
Volker
Thanks for the input! So you think I dont need the staples if I use plaster on the Forex? I was concerned that it might come loose if the diorama is banged around a bit in transport. But that should be avoided for a lot of reasons! The "Feinspackel" could probably be a good alternative. I have used something similar for some other projects, and it looked quite convincing. Tests have to be made...
Hauk.
It always great to see your work it is so fine and well thought out.
cheers
Hauk, I haven't used plaster for any of the groundcover on my layout. I used various mixes of Sculptamold, precolored with craft paints and/or universal paint tinting pigments and mixed with yellow PVA glue or acrylic matte medium along with some water. I applied it on top of extruded blue Styrofoam insulation. Where the foam had been contoured with a rasp or serated knife, the mix was spread on it as is. Where the mix was spread on top of the smooth factory finish of the foam, then before spreading it I poked lots of shallow holes all over the foam with a bamboo skewer and firmly worked the mix into the holes as it was spread over the surface.
In most cases the Sculptamold layers were less than 0.125 in (0.3175 cm) thick and in many they were less than 0.0625 in thick. That basic ground cover has been covered all the foam on my layout for over 20 years and has not delaminated anywhere.
However, in a few places where the Sculptamold mix filled the area between the rails of track on a few sidings. The track had been held in place with small steel nails. the nails rusted and bled through the thin Sculptaold layer, leaving a small round rusty mark that bled through even when the area was painted over with waterbased paints several times.
I experimented with covering the area with a shellac based primer (Kilz)which prevented the rust from continuing to bleed through, but that gave the Sculptamold a different surface finish and texture that was difficult to try to blend into the surrounding scenery.
Nice to see your progress!
Quote from: Hauk on February 10, 2021, 01:34:31 PM
So you think I dont need the staples if I use plaster on the Forex? I was concerned that it might come loose if the diorama is banged around a bit in transport. But that should be avoided for a lot of reasons! The "Feinspackel" could probably be a good alternative. I have used something similar for some other projects, and it looked quite convincing. Tests have to be made...
I don't know - for sure you may use a plastic primer at the forex to improve adhesion, or simply sand it with some coarse grid paper. Your stapler pins seem to be zinced, so I wouldn't expect a problem with bleeding there? Feinspachtel is this one: https://www.bauhaus.info/spachtelmassen/molto-holzspachtel-holz-fein-spachtel/p/15171343 (https://www.bauhaus.info/spachtelmassen/molto-holzspachtel-holz-fein-spachtel/p/15171343). Don't know, if it is available in Norway. It's a compound of vinylacetatcopolymerdispersion, calcite, talcum, water and so on.
Cheers,
Volker
Appreciate all the feedback and encouragement!
I probably should prime the track spikes as well. As I any case need to paint the maintenance pit grey, I can use a grey primer on the entire floor, spikes, staples and brass ties included.
But I will experiment with alternatives to plaster, even as I still are quite happy with my testsamples made following a recipe by Marc Reusser in an old Modellers Annual. Its been posted and discussed before in this thread, I just added it to avoid a post without an image...
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fbetonggulv_test_W.jpg&hash=69d598677a99f18ed4fd3629ae1a4fe163f7b701)
Hi Hauk.
I am trouble viewing your photo maybe it is my end I was also having trouble with Frithjof but that is fixed now.
cheers
Quote from: 1-32 on February 23, 2021, 12:49:35 PM
Hi Hauk.
I am trouble viewing your photo maybe it is my end I was also having trouble with Frithjof but that is fixed now.
cheers
I think there are some issues with browser compability and the forum software.
Some images show up in Mozilla, but not in Chrome. Perhaps it would help to try with another browser?
Do you have problems with all my images or only some?
And how did you fix the issues with Fridtjofs images?
I too am unable to see the photos, just an icon for a broken link. I have the same issue with the Scandinavian and European based members as well. Same issue regardless of browser (Chrome and Edge). I've turned off my VPN, and tested with all my ad blockers, spam blockers, tracking blockers etc. turned off just for this site... same result, no images. Of course, it could well have something to do with our ISP here in rural ON, "We're sorry, we don't allow you to see anything that doesn't have to do with farming, snow removal, hockey, or flavorless food."
Image issue solved: I switched to Firefox (thanks for the suggestion Hauk) and all images are now visible. Edge is a chromium based browser, so essentially the same as Chrome which would explain why both responded with the same fault. Now I can finally see what everyone is up to!
Quote from: WP Rayner on February 23, 2021, 01:27:50 PM
Image issue solved: I switched to Firefox (thanks for the suggestion Hauk) and all images are now visible. Edge is a chromium based browser, so essentially the same as Chrome which would explain why both responded with the same fault. Now I can finally see what everyone is up to!
Great!
Firefox saves the day!
Just a quick question regarding texture.
I have tried a new material for simulating concrete. It is a Portland cement based spackeling compound. I added some fine decomposed granite to the mix, and this is the result:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fhusfix_betong_w.jpg&hash=ddc1f1a1b00f0b5a1b003b215e79e7b32c39c672)
It is a bit coarser than strictly prototype, but I feel that in 0-scale you can exaggerate things like textures slightly to get an effect that is noticeable when you see it "live". The picture is a crude enlargement, and when viewing the diorama you will not be able to examine it so close as this.
Regarding the color, it needs to be quite a bit darker. In fact, I think that I should exaggerate a bit here as well, and select colors that are a shade darker than strictly prototypical. It is not the floor that is the main attraction, and with the light coming mainly from above, I suspect that I would need to darken the floor when editing pictures. But more on coloring in a later post.
PS: Coming to think of it, Portland cement mixed with gravel and water IS concrete!
Is this a ready mixed or add water compound? And, what is it called?
The texture in the photo might be a bit finer if you dip the tool being used to smooth it in a bit of water when spreading. Otherwise with a bit of color correction you've come close to the feel of an old, outdoor concrete slab. A couple of patches and some oil spills and you will have gotten the feel of my driveway.
Nice start but maybe the texture could be slightly finer. Even in 1:48 and from a normal viewing distance we have to be careful with exaggeration. I'll be very interested to see how it looks after the little improvements you describe. -- Russ
I second what Russ said about exaggeration. Be aware that the most ongoing impression a viewer may have is from pictures you may take of the model. I tend to rather build for pictures than exhibitions.
And I third his comments. Subtlety is key, over-statement is risky. I'm assuming that the shop has a concrete floor, at least in part. All industrial concrete floors I've seen have been smooth and somewhat poly-chromatic from wear, oil and other fluid stains, etc. Also, most industrial floors, especially in an active shop, are swept and cleaned regularly for safety reasons, further polishing the floor over time. Other than that, I believe the ingredients and process hold promise and I too am interested in seeing the results of further experiments.
The scepticism against exaggeration is duly noted!
And the point about most people will never see the model in real life is valid. In fact, you could say that the photos are the product.
It is a bit irritating that the cast plaster tests are in fact much better. But that process is OK for small test pieces, I have trouble seeing how I can scale it up for the whole shop floor.
But on the other hand, the prototype floor is quite coarse:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2FGulv_proto_w.jpg&hash=8b3e7a77cff02e712180fe1a90bcc539b1e469be)
It is a delicate balance!
Hauk,
I'm not sure about the concrete. The floor color seems to be rather dark and the round edged cracks right side from the track to me look a bit like like tar or mastic asphalt?
Cheers,
Volker
I had the same reaction to your new photo as Volker. It looks more like some kind of asphalt. Still, I have confidence that whatever floor you build will look outstanding. -- Russ
Very curious... not at all what I expected it to look like. Given what appears to be the softness of the wear in the cracks and the indentations, particularly on the left side, along with the non-reflective characteristic of the surface, Volker may have the right idea. It almost looks like packed dirt in the left foreground. The area in the right foreground looks like a coating applied to a lower surface. Other areas surrounding the machines and where the gentleman at the left is standing, are worn or compressed quite smooth, again suggestive of a somewhat "soft" surface. It occurs to me that if you dropped a wrench on this floor, it would "thud," not "ring" as it would if dropped on concrete. At the very least, it's a interesting challenge.
My guess is we're looking at a mopped coat of tar over the concrete slab, with sand sprinkled into the hot tar for slip resistance. The asphalt moves differently than the concrete due to changes in temperature, causing the cracking.
We do essentially the same thing today as a high-tech floor system in factories, commercial food processing area, etc, only using epoxies instead of hot tar.
Hey, Eric, whatever happened to your modeling? We rarely even hear from you anymore and it's been years since you last posted a photo. -- Russ
You're right Russ - it has been years. I follow the happenings here every day, but my time in the modeling shop has been very limited for some time. I'm caring for both of my parents - one with Alzheimer's and the other following a really bad stroke - and my day job is really demanding. (My business partner is getting ready to retire and I'm going to have 19 other architects to keep busy.)
My most recent projects have all been little tests to try out new painting and weathering techniques. My finishing skills lag far behind my fabrication skills...
Quote from: Hydrostat on February 25, 2021, 11:14:07 PM
The floor color seems to be rather dark and the round edged cracks right side from the track to me look a bit like like tar or mastic asphalt?
Cheers, Volker
I do not know anything about the subject matter. But I took a glimpse at Barking Bills flickr « British Railways Engine Sheds 1948 to 1994 group ».
I know, te subject is a very British one, but nevertheless there are interesting pictures.
Here it seems that concrete floors were common, but rather in the Diesel age. Earlier there seems to be a cobblestone floor with some sort of asphalt over it (and a lot of dirt and soot of course).
I found a similar shed picture from the narrow-gauge railway in my hometown. Interestingly, here too it seems the same arrangement.
(https://images44.fotki.com/v1409/photos/4/3824994/14463210/324374-vi.jpg)
Back when I was a child, the USPS central sorting center in Richmond, Va replaced a floor which was made from end grain maple wood blocks with one made from concrete. For years the floor endured fork lift trucks and metal wheeled trailers moving over it 7 days a week and in most places didn't show much wear.
My Father and I moved a number of loads of the old floor to our house to be use as firewood. The end grain of wood is one of the toughest and most forgiving wood floor I know of. In the later parts of the 19th century wooden floors of this type were quite common because they were tough, long wearing, and easier on the feet then brick or concrete.
Lawton, was the floor made up of blocks then? -- Russ
Quote from: Peter_T1958 on February 28, 2021, 10:05:55 AM
Quote from: Hydrostat on February 25, 2021, 11:14:07 PM
The floor color seems to be rather dark and the round edged cracks right side from the track to me look a bit like like tar or mastic asphalt?
Cheers, Volker
I do not know anything about the subject matter. But I took a glimpse at Barking Bills flickr « British Railways Engine Sheds 1948 to 1994 group ».
I know, te subject is a very British one, but nevertheless there are interesting pictures.
Here it seems that concrete floors were common, but rather in the Diesel age. Earlier there seems to be a cobblestone floor with some sort of asphalt over it (and a lot of dirt and soot of course).
Thanks for an interesting link! Lots of inspirational photos.
Russ:
The blocks were end grain maple about 3"x4" and 5" thick. They were joined together in long rows by wood strapping on one side which interlocked into a dado on the matching edge of the next row. Bottom was set in tar and as I remember the blocks burned quite well in the fireplace over several winters.
For the moment I have tired of the floor. The material I chose for the floor is turning out to be a bad choice. For some reason it does not harden properly, and I fear I have to chisel it away and start over. But I will wait a couple of days more to see if it might be OK after all.
Meanwhile I have turned my attention to the big wheel lathe. A while back drawings turned up on my favourite research resource, Digital Museum (http://www.digitalmuseum.no). Here is a detail from the blueprint:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fhjuldreiebenk_utsnitt_W.jpg&hash=91b04097bc63db1fc8c760974635b251f04e3b36)
So now there is no excuse for making a detailed model of the thing! Work has just begun on the drawings for the 3D prints.
Digital Museum also have a Swedish site that might be even better than the Norwegian one, as far more of the picturers are free to use under the CC licensing. So a lot of the pictures are available in high resolution versions. The machine shop pictures on page 4 of this thread is taken from DM Sweden (http://www.digitalmuseum.se). If you are looking for som exotic prototypes check it out. Here is a random sample:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2FNydqvist_W.jpg&hash=189e686cbf82905181d4bf792b83ca6c8fb11526)
The Digital Museum site is a great resource... thanks for the link Hauk. Would love to see a lot more sites of that quality online. The US Library of Congress has an online version of the HABS/HAER https://www.loc.gov/pictures/collection/hh/ (https://www.loc.gov/pictures/collection/hh/) archive (Historic American Buildings Survey/Historic American Engineering Record) which can provide a lot of excellent photographs, documentation, and drawings.
Very interesting site Hauk, thanks for the link. I am already curious about the model of the lathe.
Bernhard
For better of worse, the concrete has now been poured, and this is what it looks like before weathering:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2FGulv_endelig_w.jpg&hash=ea7603e500daf8d20cc0058b384403b0a132a674)
It is by no means perfect, but it will have to do.
As for the prototype really having a concrete floor, I decided to allow for some artistic licence. I think most people will accept a concrete floor without second thought, but a stamped earth or asphalt one would rise questions and need a lot of explaining. And as the color would be speculation, I decided not to go that route.
Time to move on!
Looks good to me.
Quote from: Hauk on March 17, 2021, 03:19:44 PM
As for the prototype really having a concrete floor, I decided to allow for some artistic licence. I think most people will accept a concrete floor without second thought, but a stamped earth or asphalt one would rise questions and need a lot of explaining. And as the color would be speculation, I decided not to go that route.
That makes sense Hauk and I think it looks better than the original test, perhaps it was just the angle of the lighting in the earlier shot. Once the equipment is in place and the floor is weathered, cluttered up a bit, it will look totally believable.
Quote from: WP Rayner on March 18, 2021, 06:57:45 AM
That makes sense Hauk and I think it looks better than the original test, perhaps it was just the angle of the lighting in the earlier shot. Once the equipment is in place and the floor is weathered, cluttered up a bit, it will look totally believable.
Thats excactly what I am hoping for!
This exercise taught me an important lesson, by the way:
When testing techniques, make sure that the test is scalable. I made a lot of tests for the floor that I was very happy with, only to discover that it was impossible to use the methods for the entire floor. For example, the first test I made (Shown earlier in the thread) was casting a small section upside down against a glass plate. But with the trrack, lower area between the rails and the service pit, I should have understood that this was a dead end.
To maintain the intent of Håvard's thread, I moved the discussion about posting links and upgrading our software to the Blue Note Room. I moved Barney's post about using webresizer.com to General Forums > How To Include Images In Posts. -- Russ
No actual modelling progress this weekend as me and the missus took a trip out of town to visit family. But fortunately I did a find this weekend as well. Peering through the window of a local industrial museum (closed due to you know what) I was able to get this shot of a boiler room with a wonderfully old floor complete with inlaid tracks!
Hello Hauk,
this is a great example template.
I'm curious to see how this continues with you.
Quote from: Hauk on March 20, 2021, 08:53:48 AM
No actual modelling progress this weekend as me and the missus took a trip out of town to visit family. But fortunately I did a find this weekend as well. Peering through the window of a local industrial museum (closed due to you know what) I was able to get this shot of a boiler room with a wonderfully old floor complete with inlaid tracks!
Great find, and what perfect reference for your project!
Im happy to report that a milestone for the project has been achived. All the subwalls and roofs have noe been milled from 8mm forex board. So I have finally been able to make a test setup:
Wow - what a spacial impact! It's a pleasure to see. What size is it all in all?
Hauk, that really loos great!
Yes, that looks great!
In one of your first posts on the « Wooden ore cars » you wrote :
«I have finally realised that I want the cars to be strictly metal and wood as the prototype.»
This credo turns here into a perfect result. Wonderful and delicate workmanship!!!
Cheers, Peter
With a vaulted ceiling like this one, it almost could be used as a church. Certainly is inspiring. Just the thing for a Sunday posting.
Thanks a lot for all the encouraging comments!
Those who have followed this thread from the beginning knows that I agonized for a long time about how to compose the scene.
Now that things start to come together, I must admit that I am extremely happy that I chose the "straight on" composition. That trip to the miniature museum in Lyon really paid off.
In the last minute I also added some extra depth, so the now the model i 55 cm (22") deep and 31cm across.
This extra depth was added so that there are seven rows of windows instead of six as originally planned. With only six windows depth the skylight came right up to the viewing aperture (crudely mocked up in the picture). To concentrate the viewers attention to the center of the room, I want the area closest to the viewer (the first 3") to be slightly darker and less detailed than further into the scene. I don´t know if this makes sense, but hopefully this will help to "draw" the viewer into the scene. Time will show if this work!
Looking great! Those trusses are beautiful.
Impressively adequate and it makes a big impact. I love those photos of your exquisite modeling. -- Russ
Very impressive and gives a great sense of space.
Aiai, Håvard!
This looks very nice! Very inspiring to take part in your achievements! Hope to be able to see it in "real - life"..
H
This is really the place to get inspiration to try and raise the bar of ones work!
By the way, I think there might be a couple of interesting learning points in my last pictures.
First: There really isn´t that much detailing to see at this point. And I think that the images would not loose much impact if you removed the travelling crane and the NBW´s on the roof rafters. The important thing is that the work is sharp. And I mean that literally. (I have in fact cut my fingers on those walls.) I learned this lesson when building models in Architectural school. Models does not need to be detailed at all, but they must always be sharp. Especially in the smaller architectural scales like 1/500 or 1/1000.
Second: It is all about the light. You don´t need scale lighting. The light will fall through your models windows and skylights exactly the same way as on the prototype.The shadows will be perfect as well. I shot the pictures indoors, but had I taken the time to take the model outdoors the results would have been even better. Outdoors, the lighting is just perfect, of course.
But I am really looking forward to get details and weathering done!
LOOKING GREAT - Attention to detail is incredible
Barney
Lovely H!
The light is exquisite! A photographers dream to shoot there!
H
That sure is nice great work!
Jerry
Good job !
Crap, another period of more than 120 days have passed without posting anything!
And progress is not that impressing, either...
But some work has been done. The roof is now finished, and it looks a bit more finished in the earlier test-assembly images:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftest_tak2.jpg&hash=f0b4f760a10084a6b49de8e32083fab9e2ca6601)
I shot the image with the telephoto lens on my iPhone 12, and I tried another camera app than the standard Apple Camera app, CameraPixels Pro. This is an interesting app since it has functions like manual focus and focus bracketing. The image above is 10 exposures stitched together in Photoshop 2021. PS clearly leaves something to be desired when it comes to focus stacking, so I am looking for a better software for this. I plan to try out Helicon Focus, have anyone tried it for focus stacking?
As usual, fingers crossed for significant progress before it has passed another 120 days!
Hauk, some years back I used CombineZ for focus stacking. It's a free, open source program.
There are now other versions which are more versatile: CombineZM and CombineZP.
I believe the software now only works with Windows machines.
When I used CombineZ it worked well, but sometimes there were areas around the perimeter of the final image that had to be cropped.
If you Google CombineZ, CombineZM or CombineZP you can read more about the capabilities and limitations.
Affinity Photo seems to work well for photo stacking. As you know, it's the only true Photoshop competitor. The price is $49 and then you own it (and future upgrades) forever. I created the attached photo of an HO switcher from a few shots with an iPhone XS Max and Affinity's stacking feature. I realize it's much less complex than your photo so I hope it's of some value.
Yours is a wonderful photo of a superbly crafted model. In other words, you have done an adequate job.
Russ
Those rafters are beautiful!
A beautiful build of a wonderful design.
It looks like a magnificent cathedral! Very, very impressive!!!
Quote from: Peter_T1958 on September 27, 2021, 02:11:13 AM
It looks like a magnificent cathedral! Very, very impressive!!!
Yes, it does have some churchlike qualities!
By the way, I thought that the window in the end wall was pretty unique, but yesterday I discovered this on a totally different building in downtown Trondheim:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fvindu_standard2.jpg&hash=a289118db5755e883cf782367bd5de23889048fa)
It seems that standard components for buildings is not a new thing. (The workshop was built in 1907, and this building is probably about the same age)
Beautiful! Those rafters are just perfect!
Jerry
Beautiful work Hauk, as usual. The rafters are gorgeous, and yes, reminiscent of a cathedral. Concerning Helicon Focus, I've done a couple of simple tests with it, though not enough yet to really test its limits or form any sort of informed opinion on it. I have also tested Affinity and it is indeed a viable alternative to Photoshop for some and not just because of the pricing. However, having been a Pshop user since shortly after its launch in 1991, I'm committed to staying with it as it blends seamlessly into my CG workflow, automatically importing (through the Exr-IO plugin) Cryptomatte layered EXR files exported by the renderer. If your image editing needs don't extend to that level, then Affinity is an excellent alternative.
Quote from: finescalerr on September 26, 2021, 03:50:48 PM
Affinity Photo seems to work well for photo stacking. As you know, it's the only true Photoshop competitor. The price is $49 and then you own it (and future upgrades) forever. I created the attached photo of an HO switcher from a few shots with an iPhone XS Max and Affinity's stacking feature. I realize it's much less complex than your photo so I hope it's of some value.
Yours is a wonderful photo of a superbly crafted model. In other words, you have done an adequate job.
Russ
Thanks for the kind words! And thanks a lot for the tip about Affinity. I have now made a *very* quick test, and the result is interesting:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftest_stacking_affinity_web.jpg&hash=b6246cabc94d01bb171491869af2ae804a6ed75f)
First impression is that Affinity works better than PS, but some more testing must be done before a conclusion can be drawn.
It impressed me in the same way, Havard: The stacking feature seems better than Photoshop's. Your new photo seems to be a very good test, though, because of its complexity and depth. I'll be interested in your thoughts after you've spent more time with it. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on September 28, 2021, 12:27:03 AM
It impressed me in the same way, Havard: The stacking feature seems better than Photoshop's. Your new photo seems to be a very good test, though, because of its complexity and depth. I'll be interested in your thoughts after you've spent more time with it. -- Russ
The stacking seems better, and maybe even as important, it is a one step process in Affinity. You just select the images for the stack, and then everything goes automatic. One advantage in PS might be that it is easier to manually edit the results.
One other thing that impressed me with Affinity is that even if the user interface is rather different from PS, it is still quite intuitive. I made my first test image while having a telephone converstion on an totally unrelated topic.
But why really struck me is that if Affinity can do the whole process with just a one-click input from the user, it should be possible to do the whole thing in the camera. An iPhone 12 should have more than enough processing power for the job.
Can I do stacking with pictures from an old iPhone 6?
Don't you need manual focus to do that?
Carlo
Havard, are you actually running Affinity on the iPhone or just thinking about the possibility? I use it on my computer and never thought beyond that.
Carlo, the iPhone 6 should be capable of shooting a series of photos where you focus on a different point each time. The yellow box on the screen will move if you drag it with your finger. Touch inside the box to establish the focus. Put the phone on a tripod and shoot with a ten second delay to make sure the vibration after touching the phone has subsided. Load the images onto your computer and then do the post processing. If I failed to answer your question clearly or properly, I'll walk you though everything on the phone.
As I've said, I consider Affinity equal to Photoshop. Each has strengths and annoyances but the results are the same. I've been using Affinity for the past three years. Regular photos are as easy as when using Photoshop but I've also been using it to create photographic "wallpaper" finishes for models. It works very well and I'm very fussy.
Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on September 28, 2021, 11:55:29 AM
Havard, are you actually running Affinity on the iPhone or just thinking about the possibility? I use it on my computer and never thought beyond that.
Carlo, the iPhone 6 should be capable of shooting a series of photos where you focus on a different point each time. The yellow box on the screen will move if you drag it with your finger. Touch inside the box to establish the focus. Put the phone on a tripod and shoot with a ten second delay to make sure the vibration after touching the phone has subsided. Load the images onto your computer and then do the post processing. If I failed to answer your question clearly or properly, I'll walk you though everything on the phone.
As I've said, I consider Affinity equal to Photoshop. Each has strengths and annoyances but the results are the same. I've been using Affinity for the past three years. Regular photos are as easy as when using Photoshop but I've also been using it to create photographic "wallpaper" finishes for models. It works very well and I'm very fussy.
Russ
I am shooting with CameraPixel (instead of the standard camera app) on my iPhone 12. With CameraPixel I can set the range from the nearest to the furtherest point of focusing (In percent, you have to do some tests to find out what it means in actual lengths) and the number of images.
The image below was shot from a focus distance from 5% to 85 %. I set CameraPixel to shoot 10 images. As it turned out, the range was too long, the 2 closets images and the 2 furtherest were totally blurred. It is a great help to be able to shoot the images in a single burst, it saves a lot of time and hassle!
I imported a stack of 6 images to my desktop computer. So I used Affinity Photo on the desktop PC. There is a version for the iPad/iPhone, but I have not tried that one.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2F210928_verksted_04.jpg&hash=06d8e9eee2bbaf7fd199473eee4575a628038665)
Sorry to Gate Crash your superb modelling article - But whilst on the subject of "Affinity Photo" How can I delete photos from my Affinity Photo system - The story so far is I had Affinity Photo installed last year but had many issues that even the AppleMac OS "wiz kids" could not solve it was about the time of Big Sur
( I called the big cock up) was being updated /or introduced so I thought my only way round the problem would to completely drain my AppleOS of its contents and restart from scratch. So not being one to be defeated I have now reinstated Affinity Photo being that I want to start from the beginning and want to delete the photos I have in the Affinity Photo programme how can I do it - Checked on websites and the say it can not be done !!!!! - others say remove the bits you don't want with the brush tool !! But I want to remove the whole photo any Ideas ? I hope my computer jargon is understandable ( Im very basic at these issues) but its the only way I can understand it !!
I think the answers should be put in the Bluenote room to give this superb modelling article plenty of room to continue
Thanks
Barney
Barney, sent you a private message, not with answers, only a question...
Havard, thanks for clarifying your process. The results are beautiful.
Barney, send me an e-mail and I'll try to help. As far as I know, Affinity does not include any "photos". Maybe you are referring to the *.afphoto files it generates.
Russ
A really great model, Hauk. It is always interesting to see what beautiful details can be found in old buildings.
Bernhard
Thanks for all the encouragement!
I have started to look into the painting of the walls with an ambition of keeping things simple and getting on with it.
It seems that brushpainting matte (XF) Tamiya acrylics in two layer will work OK.
I tried sprinkling very fine rock dust into the wet paint, but this just looked wrong for plastered brick walls.
Here is a sample:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftest_vegg_web_05.jpg&hash=74d2730095e264885d01b5396ef9cd554f3c0b13)
The area closest to the figure looks quite right. What is needed in 0-scale is not so much texture as a slightly uneven surface that suggest a slightly uneven brick wall under the plaster. It needs some weathering, though.
Another test for painting the walls.
This is just Tamiya XF paint applied quite thickly with a sponge. After the paint has dried it was lightly weathered with MIG pigments:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fmalingstest_final.jpg&hash=0af98a85879ff6f090afbdde99e98f6a6eb06bc0)
But I am open for suggestions for improvement!
Hauk, The bulk of plaster walls I have seen have been limited to residential rather than industrial settings, so that norm was to have as smooth a surface as possible. In general walls were worked with a wide trowel, any residual tool marks reflected that.
In your first test photo with three colors of plaster, the two on the left appear mostly like "scratch coats", The area behind the figure is smoother, but has a lot of narrow lines/shallow scratches mostly running at a slight diagonal angle up toward the right. That doesn't look like the surfaces I've seen, which have more of faint broader, longer arcs barely visible (if at all) under most indirect lighting. If you google plaster walls and images you can see lots of examples. The photos of more heavily textured plaster seem like a more modern affect used in residents.
In your more recent photo the surface is much smoother and could represent a plaster wall or a "sheetrock" "wallboard" wall with a very light, but uniform painted texture (except for the few scattered "pimples")
A neighbor who renovated his house a few years ago to look more like colonial American house inside and out had sheetrock installed, but then had it skim coated with plaster to give the surface the slight look of having been handworked with a long trowel. Does that help at all?
Quote from: Bill Gill on October 07, 2021, 06:01:45 PM
Hauk, The bulk of plaster walls I have seen have been limited to residential rather than industrial settings, so that norm was to have as smooth a surface as possible. In general walls were worked with a wide trowel, any residual tool marks reflected that.
In your first test photo with three colors of plaster, the two on the left appear mostly like "scratch coats", The area behind the figure is smoother, but has a lot of narrow lines/shallow scratches mostly running at a slight diagonal angle up toward the right. That doesn't look like the surfaces I've seen, which have more of faint broader, longer arcs barely visible (if at all) under most indirect lighting. If you google plaster walls and images you can see lots of examples. The photos of more heavily textured plaster seem like a more modern affect used in residents.
In your more recent photo the surface is much smoother and could represent a plaster wall or a "sheetrock" "wallboard" wall with a very light, but uniform painted texture (except for the few scattered "pimples")
A neighbor who renovated his house a few years ago to look more like colonial American house inside and out had sheetrock installed, but then had it skim coated with plaster to give the surface the slight look of having been handworked with a long trowel. Does that help at all?
It always help to hear what others thinks of your work. Especially when it evokes that "I did not think about that" feeling. If we don´t build models only for our own gratification, it is important that what we are trying to express is interpreted correctly by the viewer. You interpret my last example as a sheetrock wall, something that I can fully understand. But it is not the effect I am looking for, and that is what make your feedback so valuable. More experiments have to be made! And lets be clear, these are experiments, please feel free to tear them apart! Don´t hold back!
Here is the last wall experiment. A little variation in the coloring (sponging on a slighly different tone as a top coat) as well as a light sprinkling of talc. The pendulum might have swung to far to the other side, but hopefully I am getting closer to a wall that resembles a more aged wall with traces of calcium/lime deposits and right before the paint starts to flake off (suggestions for making flaking paint and lime deposits?):
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2F211009_malingtest_web.jpg&hash=5b1ee411e688710e3c45bf602b717ab25658b0b4)
It´s been some days since I made this test, and looking at it now, it is not quite as promising as I remembered it, so our little friend will probably have to pose in front of a lot more wall panels.
Another area were I have started to test techniques and build skills is finishing white metal castings:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fambolter.jpg&hash=e76b3e97ce4aae5876f8e86b6a0e7152bb69b50e)
These anvils was first dunked in Birchwood Casey blackening solution. Somewhat surprisingly, this worked quite poorly. Went ahead anyways with dark rust and black pigments on the bottom and polished the top with gun metal pigments (all pigments by MIG). The best thing that can be said is that I like the top surface, and the anvils look like they are made of metal. But what should be a dark rust color really looks like copper.
I tried the same blackening on my CHB kits, and what a difference!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fmilller_under_construction.jpg&hash=22a58fdf91c7b47b04e6e06f866fc04f5662b379)
In seconds, they turned black. In fact, the process went so quick that I started to worry that the process could destroy the castings. But close inspection shows no pitting in the surface, so I hope they are good.
I rinsed and scrubbed them with water. The white on the edges are therefore signs of the blackening getting worn off, it is not some of the dreaded white deposits that sometimes form on blackened brass parts.
Suggestions on how to proceed with painting the machines? They are going to be painted a green color, but I am uncertain if I should use an airbrush or not, and if the paint should be gloss or matte. I am leaning towards gloss paint applied with an airbrush, then weathered by washes and finally pigments.
I don't know what to tell you about that wall, without seeing a prototype photo of the type of wall you're trying to replicate.
The anvils look really good except near the bottom, where they do indeed look a bit coppery.
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on October 14, 2021, 11:34:38 PM
I don't know what to tell you about that wall, without seeing a prototype photo of the type of wall you're trying to replicate.
Thanks for the feedback!
This gives me the opportunity to elaborate a little:
A goal for me is that the modelling should look "right" even if the spectator have never seen the prototype or pictures of it. I suspect I am not quite there yet...
As for the milling machine...what you achieved on the overarm support looks perfect. The table top and the ways(all sliding surfaces) should look like that too. What era are we doing here? Is this the machine you got from me? Most machines made in the 1800's were black, color didn't come until later. The gloss level would have been shiny when new and less so in use. If you go for color green and "machine tool gray" would be right. There were many variations of both of those.
I tried to find a free copy of this article for you but no luck...I have a paper copy somewhere
https://www.jstor.org/stable/40968876?refreqid=excelsior%3A4f240a8dd833be9742b595ecab1f9637
here is a good pic, dig around and you can find some more
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jeffs4653/7006020644/in/photolist-bF6FRo-6djZR5-Yy82Zd-Utstv1-Ki4rsM-2bq6dpH-2aqoDbk-2itjcRE-pRHbDQ-A9wiZ3-2g66aPm-2g63cXh-XB5zyP-nvYNW1-TM6LA3-2jXdrdm-MLtJ4U-SxmQmE-pqcU3S-2bq6dfV-2h5aUiA-U9nZ2E-q5DhKU-zUexLb-XB5zzR-XB5zyD-XB5zAn-2g68h29-2g62V22-q5Mckr-2g4hCa3-qn1UXg-TM6LUu-2dzB6n9-Yy82WY-c5y61j-XB5zy8-6BX4Yh-Yy82VW-MGqLYB-2g68nUV-VXqG5i-2bq6d92-2ajtL2y-TM5bEW-29NR8BL-2gvA6Mc-2g65mY4-2dqjnLr-2g66nCS
And another. -- Russ
Hi Havard
To get back to your question: Back in my military modelling times a wisdom stated « Don't overdo it ». It is my feeling, that your approaches are a bit too coarse ; less would have been more.
While viewing the first two pictures in your thread I have the impression, that the walls are covered with a layer of thin light coloured paint (white?). There are traces of humidity and discoloration, but just a few on the side walls. I would try to copy that : Thinned colour and minimal - hardly visible contamination.
Finally a strange idea yet: My wife (!) used FARROW & BALL colours to paint the living room five years ago. They are waterbased and they gave a lovely wall colour feeling, when I experimented with them on different surfaces ...
The Henry ord Museum at Dearborn has a wealth of inspiration for modellers. Luckily crossed the "pond" some years ago to visit it (along with some mainline steam specials). One of those places to go back to.
Les
Quote from: SandiaPaul on October 15, 2021, 03:37:56 AM
here is a good pic, dig around and you can find some more
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jeffs4653/7006020644/in/photolist-bF6FRo-6djZR5-Yy82Zd-Utstv1-Ki4rsM-2bq6dpH-2aqoDbk-2itjcRE-pRHbDQ-A9wiZ3-2g66aPm-2g63cXh-XB5zyP-nvYNW1-TM6LA3-2jXdrdm-MLtJ4U-SxmQmE-pqcU3S-2bq6dfV-2h5aUiA-U9nZ2E-q5DhKU-zUexLb-XB5zzR-XB5zyD-XB5zAn-2g68h29-2g62V22-q5Mckr-2g4hCa3-qn1UXg-TM6LUu-2dzB6n9-Yy82WY-c5y61j-XB5zy8-6BX4Yh-Yy82VW-MGqLYB-2g68nUV-VXqG5i-2bq6d92-2ajtL2y-TM5bEW-29NR8BL-2gvA6Mc-2g65mY4-2dqjnLr-2g66nCS
Thank you for this picture Paul, on which you can clearly see how the walls are whitewashed. White walls reflect the light in workshops very well and make the room brighter. In addition, these lime paints are very inexpensive. The bases of the walls are additionally set in industrial gray to make dirt not so noticeable.
Hi Hauk.
Have admired your work for many years and especially your eye for quality really very nice.
cheers
Quote from: 1-32 on October 24, 2021, 12:32:11 AM
Hi Hauk.
Have admired your work for many years and especially your eye for quality really very nice.
cheers
Thanks for the kind words!
Time for a little progress report. I have taken a break from the wall experiments, and worked a bit more on my treasured CHB kits. So far the results are satisfactory but under close scrutiny I can see that I probably should have spent a bit more time on cleaning up the castings, and preparing the surface. But it will have to do, and in the complete scene they should look just fine. The bench vices have been finished as well. Mounted on the bench they look a bit oversize, so I think I will look for a slightly smaller model. Suggestions, anyone?
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fworkshop_w.jpg&hash=9e3c9670083026fb773f987427c638043e62c9b3)
I have also tested a LED-panel for the lighting of the diorama, and the results are quite promesing, in my opinion. The goal is to simulate daylight flooding the room through windows and skylights. The image above is lighted with light entering only through the models windows and skylights.
Here is how the LED-panel fits into the setup:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2FBelysning_w.jpg&hash=9ef5f46fcae714d4aa11c6c24a3b32fa9f966041)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fkaba_w.jpg&hash=89e7a833f55debf6d2bb2b6641f6653efa98e78a)
And so the stage is set!
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fstage.jpg&hash=8db55e79e2f84e5b1d6d964b50f0e03368b82691)
Looks great! I like the way the entire thing is focused solely on the interior.
It is more a work of art than just a model. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on November 11, 2021, 12:46:29 AM
It is more a work of art than just a model. -- Russ
That counts for a lot coming from you. Thanks.
I think I recognize that mill! ;)
As for the vise...they came in all sizes and for a shop like that a large vise would have been "standard", I see no problem with it. I would leave it there.
Quote from: SandiaPaul on November 11, 2021, 03:20:31 AM
I think I recognize that mill! ;)
I hope that you feel that the mill have found a good home!
Havardtastic!!! A real work of art indeed! Can the lamp also be dimmed?
Hauk,
it just looks great - I'm always happy about your sequels!
Quote from: Peter_T1958 on November 11, 2021, 10:32:16 AM
Havardtastic!!! A real work of art indeed! Can the lamp also be dimmed?
Thanks!
You can find LED-panels with dimmers, but this one doesnt have that feature.
I was a bit over-eager when I ordered the panel, and I should have looked a bit closer into the specs.
If I buy another LED-panel, I would look for one with a dimmer already built in, and one with a better Color Rendering Index. My LED-panel has a CRI somewhere in the 80s, but for color photography it should ideally be around 95. The higher the CRI, the better the color renderign will be.
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_rendering_index)
I have also tried to find a LED-panel with adjustable color for night effects, but It seems like this is not an option. Maybe some RGB LED-strips could work for simulating moonlight shining through the windows on one side of the building. This would be used only in combination with interior lighting (wich is a project in itself)
Quote from: fspg2 on November 11, 2021, 10:42:14 AM
Hauk,
it just looks great - I'm always happy about your sequels!
Thanks!
I fear that I tend to overpost at times, but hopefully there will be at least a nugget of useful information in each of them.
No, I have never thought you post too much. -- Russ
I'm waiting for the pulpit, pews, and the alter.
Lawton, go stand in the corner. Over by the vise. -- Russ
Post all you want, Hauk! I enjoy every post.
Keep posting "lots of it " I agree with all
Barney
Russ:
Not until the confessionals have been installed and you've tested one.
Hauk, I like the lighting, but am also interested in your ideas to experiment with dimming , color balance and moonlight effects. my drugstore model will have some lighting to hopefully have a "modern" fluorescent look to it befitting the updating of the store interior.
Lawton what are you witing on to get altered? It looks good already :)
Thanks for all the good and not so good suggestions!
I have no altar or pews, but at least the windows look quite sacral at least:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fvinduer_2.jpg&hash=dcfc78320c4f3a3e1a812d461618b434fb485765)
I am experimenting into the absurd here, but I felt that the etched windows looked a little flat in the 0,25mm sheets I ordered for all the metal parts. So I had another set of windows etched in 0,6mm metal. The idea was that might look a little more like cast iron windows with a little more "beef" to them. I think they do, and I feel that the "tent" effect on the edges of the edges helps in this. This tent-shape of the edges are usually a bug and not a feature, and on etchings as thick as 0.6mm they usually would have to be sanded flat. A close up might show the effect better:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fnaerbilde_w.jpg&hash=8f0154bcb1b04a4132164c4556893b9f600c0311)
Since last time I have experienced a bit more with Affenity for focus-stacking, and it is a bit better than photoshop, and faster to use:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fmaskin_affinity_w.jpg&hash=12386194ea0a56fcacc3423861802d9df088e994)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ffres_fokuskorr_w.jpg&hash=b58399836fa1816bb2b83bfa90ef85e3bcf12c67)
Affinity is the top image, photoshop is at the bottom. the differnce in color has nothing to do with the software, I just tweaked them a bit different.
The window upgrade probably was unnecessary but does look a tiny bit better. The Affinity depth of field stacking looks better and so does the overall modification of the image. Altogether, then, your work is a complete success. -- Russ
Great windows! I wish I had the capability of producing thin metal frames like those.
Ray, one thing you could do is to hire a laser cutting guy. If you can draw the part in an illustration or photo editing program, many lasers can cut from a JPEG. -- Russ
Bill:
Read my exchanges with Russ. The interior looks like it should be a church not a grubby loco repair facility. I realize now that I spelled altar wrong. My bad.
My musings on the different thicknesses of metal for the etched windows were perhaps not as clear as I intended.
So I made a side-by-side comaparasion of the 0,6mm and 0,25mm thick etchings. The 0,6mm etching is to the left:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Fsammenkopiert_w.jpg&hash=20a980ecfda80e984a03045a71deb1927a5cb69d)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Futsnitt_sammenkopiert_w.jpg&hash=e38a45f37e1c7229a1ad704c5b3a663ff0a386b6)
It is worth noting that the artwork (photo-tooling) is exactly the same. So the mullions are the same width, only the thickness is different.
I think that the 0,6 version looks slightly more 3D. But the question is if it is worth fuzzing over it. When the diorama is completed, I doubt that anyone would have noted the difference. At times I find this type of experimenting fruitful, but this time I just feel a bit irritated with myself for wasting time and money on this!
Quote from: Hauk on November 14, 2021, 11:44:10 AM
I think that the 0,6 version looks slightly more 3D. But the question is if it is worth fuzzing over it. When the diorama is completed, I doubt that anyone would have noted the difference. At times I find this type of experimenting fruitful, but this time I just feel a bit irritated with myself for wasting time and money on this!
I agree with your assessment, the 0.6 version is much more effective and readable. Whether or not anyone else notices the difference is not particularly relevant, you will, and it's better to commit to the version that pleases you now rather than wish later that you had made the change. No need to feel irritated. Though it may seem like it at the time, neither time nor money is wasted if you learn something from the experience.
Quote from: finescalerr on November 13, 2021, 08:50:57 PM
Ray, one thing you could do is to hire a laser cutting guy. If you can draw the part in an illustration or photo editing program, many lasers can cut from a JPEG. -- Russ
Can a laser cutter do sheet brass?
Ray, for every processing of plate material there are optimal and less optimal methods. It always depends on what you want to achieve in the end result.
1. In etching technique, you can also educate structures in the surface by processing 2 pages.
2. Laser very dependent on the power, how thick the material may be. Mainly contours are possible and only minimal structures of the surface, such as .B. wall joints. The disadvantage of metal is a small degree caused by burning.
3. Waterjet cutting here much larger material thicknesses are also possible in metal. However, this is limited to contours. Disadvantage the cutting edge is rough and has to be partially reworked.
4. CNC flatbed milling with it everything is actually possible and with fitting holes also the machining from both sides. Disadvantage minimal breaking of the burr that can occur during milling. Advantage Structures are possible on both sides.
For all this, a vector sign program such as e.B. CorelDRAW is optimal.
Hauk
There are two ways to create more plasticity in etched parts:
- Build up from several layers.
- Symmetrical etching from both sides of the sheet. This requires separate etching films for front and back. Black surfaces are not etched. White areas on one side are removed up to half the thickness of the material. White areas on both sides are etched through.
Ray:
Brass is difficult to laser cut because reflections from the material can damage the laser optics. It is better to use nickel silver as an alternative.
Bernhard
What if you were to laser cut a stiff, strong paper like Strathmore Bristol Plate? The single "ply" thickness is 0.006" and it goes up to five ply (0.030"). Might that serve as an alternative to etched metal? If it's too flexible, you may brush on acrylic lacquer to make any paper about as stiff as styrene. -- Russ
Quote from: Bernhard on November 26, 2021, 12:27:00 PM
Hauk
There are two ways to create more plasticity in etched parts:
- Build up from several layers.
- Symmetrical etching from both sides of the sheet. This requires separate etching films for front and back. Black surfaces are not etched. White areas on one side are removed up to half the thickness of the material. White areas on both sides are etched through.
PPD Ltd. that does my etchings do indeed use two-sided etchings.
So I design all my etching artwork in two layers, one for the back and one for the front. This also allows for relief effects like raised rivets, folding lines etc.
Regarding multiple layers for building up mass I can clearly see that it has it uses, but for the windows I will settle for the 0,6 thick version of the windows.
When it comes for using lasercut paper/cardboard for the windows, I am for better or worse too attached to my "Philosophy" of using a modelling material that is as close to the prototype mateial as possible. So the perfect solution would be a metal casting, but a etched metal sheet is the next best thing. I can certainly see limitations to this approach, you just have to look at the marvelous styrene work others on this group do.
Hauk,
I like your philosophy and tend to follow the same approach with my own work.
One option to consider would be adding an operable sash down low on each window. These were important air "intakes" to encourage convective ventilation in the days before air conditioning.
It's a minor detail, but it would add some variation to the window framing and make them less static. My two cents...
Please pop in more often, Eric. -- Russ
Good effect Eric !
Quote from: EZnKY on November 27, 2021, 07:38:16 PM
Hauk,
I like your philosophy and tend to follow the same approach with my own work.
One option to consider would be adding an operable sash down low on each window. These were important air "intakes" to encourage convective ventilation in the days before air conditioning.
It's a minor detail, but it would add some variation to the window framing and make them less static. My two cents...
Great input, Eric. Unfortunately, all my windows are already etched, and going back for a third round is too much.
By the way, that is a prototype photo, right? I mean, there must be limits even on this forum.
Just a quick progress photo to show that I am still at it.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2F220214_verksted_3.jpg&hash=b4440db8deeab3bf82f0e6e80593ecce5fc19fcd)
There is probably much to be said about the painting of the walls. But to put it short, they reflect my skill level at the moment, and it will have to do.
That said, I do not think it is entirely unlike a plastered brick wall with lime deposits.
By the way, some of you might notice a change to the end wall. In an stupid effort to "simplify" things I originally left out the pillaster between the portals and the chimney to the right of the window. But of course this started to nag me like a stone in the shoe, so I just had to add them. Would have been much easier to add them before the wall was painted.... One never learns.
That chimney will also be connected to a very nice iron oven. I found the catalogue for a local company that very well might have delivered the prototype:
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.folk-rovere.org%2Fmj%2Fbilder%2Ftrolla_ovn_w.jpg&hash=359d0259558c925d9784455bb54d0ace56a759e4)
To be continued.
I know that feeling of "How did I miss That " & "Why did I not do that in the first place" it probably has happened to all of us - but I corse the worst one is I don't like that in my case it normally happens the morning after I call it the early morning test but unfortunately in my case and a few others it ends up in the bin or start it again or even give up !
But saying all of that I think your "magic box" is a delight to all - and now with a few bits of rolling stock and loco you have given it the look of space and size and Im sure when more bits are added the walls will fade away - To me it looks incredible with a "big Wow"
Barney
Havard, you have been missing in action for weeks. It is good to see a new post. -- Russ
Very nice! Just that little bit of rolling stock really helps lend a sense of scale to the space.
Will the stove be 3D printed?
Hauk, The wall finish looks good to me.
Are you going to model that oven?
Quote from: Bill Gill on February 18, 2022, 04:03:56 PM
Hauk, The wall finish looks good to me.
Are you going to model that oven?
Thanks!
Yep, the oven will be modelled. In fact, there were two such ovens in the workshop, one a bit more fancy than the other. I think 3D-printing might be the way to go, even if I would love to make in it massive brass with some etched trimmings.
It's beautiful and accurate as always !
Another "Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days."
So a little update is in order, I guess.
Since last time I have built the Plywoodbox that houses the diorama:
boks2_w.jpg
Not much to add about the box other than that I want it as black as a black hole, and as matt as possible. The last thing I probably will do before taking the diorama to a show is giving the box a fresh layer of black paint.
Besides the box I have almost finished the metal gates for the diorama. I probably put much more effort into those parts considering that they will be almost 2 feet back in the scene. But I needed the soldering practice, as my soldering skills are surprisingly mediocre. The first of the doors were in fact rather shabby, but the last one was much better. So it is true, you get better with practice! The doors are made from 0,3mm nickle silver, 1mmX1mm brass L-profiles and turned brass rivets with a head diameter of 0,6mm
dorer_03_w.jpg
dorer_02_w.jpg
The plan is to show the diorama at as a work in progress at an exhibition in november, so the should be more posts before another 120 days has passed!
Hi Hauk.
I have been following your builds for a long time now they are always quality,love the top picture of the black box and the model inside
cheers, Kim.
Quote from: 1-32 on September 10, 2022, 04:46:41 PMHi Hauk.
I have been following your builds for a long time now they are always quality,love the top picture of the black box and the model inside
cheers, Kim.
Thanks a lot!
"Mediocre" by your standards would be "good" for most of us. Nice of you finally to update us on your progress. It is an unusual but very attractive diorama and I think you will get a lot of positive feedback when you show it. -- Russ
I love this concept of using a box to display an interior diorama. It removes all distractions and separates the diorama from the 1:1 world.
Hi Hauk
Beautiful as always. I assume the rivets are a commercial item? Who was the supplier?
Quote from: Krusty on September 11, 2022, 12:51:01 AMHi Hauk
Beautiful as always. I assume the rivets are a commercial item? Who was the supplier?
Thanks a lot!
I do in fact have a modelling collegue that turned his rivets manually, but mine are indeed commercial items.
A bit surprisingly there are several sources, but currently I buy them from Hassler Profile in Lichtenstein:
https://www.hassler-profile.li/index.php/produkte/schrauben-muttern-unterlegscheiben-nieten/nieten/messingniete
In this particular project I use the M99 "Nieten".
I get my brass profiles from his as well. Not cheap, but great quality. His homepage is in Ferman, but it works well with Google Translate.
Hassler has a lot of goodies for scratchbuilders, and I can really reccomend him.
https://www.hassler-profile.li/index.php
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on September 10, 2022, 11:48:41 PMIt removes all distractions and separates the diorama from the 1:1 world.
That´s exactly what I am aiming for.
Thanks!
In addition to the outstanding craftmanship it is simply a very cool idea with that black box! I really would like to see it in reality... :-\
Quote from: Peter_T1958 on September 11, 2022, 03:25:42 AMIn addition to the outstanding craftmanship it is simply a very cool idea with that black box! I really would like to see it in reality... :-\
Come to The National Railway Museum at Hamar, Norway 6 & 7 november! I´ll be there togheter with some other fine Norwegian modellers.
And remember to bring some of your own toys!
Quote from: Hauk on September 11, 2022, 03:39:05 AMCome to The National Railway Museum at Hamar, Norway 6 & 7 november! I´ll be there togheter with some other fine Norwegian modellers.
And remember to bring some of your own toys!
Hmm, 20 hours by car? Well at least I could do it in just one day ;D
Cheers, Peter
Interesting concept, I'm looking forward to seeing how it progresses.
Bernhard
Quote from: Peter_T1958 on September 11, 2022, 11:33:57 AMHmm, 20 hours by car? Well at least I could do it in just one day ;D
Cheers, Peter
I would suspect there are more interesting shows within a 20 hour drive from your home!
Maybe, Havard, but you would not be there. -- Russ
QuoteA bit surprisingly there are several sources, but currently I buy them from Hassler Profile in Lichtenstein:
Thanks Hauk.
Test-fitted the finished doors before hitting them with a coat of primer. I suspect they need some more cleaning up, but before they have been primed it is hard to see how bad it is. It really pays off to be careful about how much solder to use!
9E0726F1-0DA0-4571-8C26-775DE49DBA90.jpeg
Avoiding excess solder in the first place is clearly a good idea, but there's a danger of too little if you are not careful so a bit extra is not all bad. If you need it, there are tricks to cleaning up solder. I would be cautious about priming first - as you possibly then have to remove it if you need further clean up.
1. Reheat and use a coarse bristle brush to flick of any excess. Some safety considerations here obviously and you'll ruin the brush fairly quickly, but it does clean up around detail quite well.
2. Brass scraper (made to suit from scrap). Using brass means you won't damage the work, but removes solder well. Good for restoring sharp edges.
3. Fibreglass eraser/pencil/sticks. Quite effective, but the bits of fibreglass that result are a hazard/nuisance. I always seem to get a bit in my finger.
4. Sandblasting.
Used in that order your doors would come up very well. Not a lot of #1 needed I think unless you need to sharpen up the rivets.
It is not the first time i see one of your wonders. Amazing!
Daniel
Quote from: Lawrence@NZFinescale on September 18, 2022, 06:27:49 PMAvoiding excess solder in the first place is clearly a good idea, but there's a danger of too little if you are not careful so a bit extra is not all bad. If you need it, there are tricks to cleaning up solder. I would be cautious about priming first - as you possibly then have to remove it if you need further clean up.
1. Reheat and use a coarse bristle brush to flick of any excess. Some safety considerations here obviously and you'll ruin the brush fairly quickly, but it does clean up around detail quite well.
2. Brass scraper (made to suit from scrap). Using brass means you won't damage the work, but removes solder well. Good for restoring sharp edges.
3. Fibreglass eraser/pencil/sticks. Quite effective, but the bits of fibreglass that result are a hazard/nuisance. I always seem to get a bit in my finger.
4. Sandblasting.
Used in that order your doors would come up very well. Not a lot of #1 needed I think unless you need to sharpen up the rivets.
I was a bit unclear in my previous post, almost all the above suggestions have been put to use!
I have yet to try number 1, but it I certainly will try it out.
I am also aware that reheating the work after priming will destroy it, so I am prepared to remove the paint again if neccesary.
As strength isn´t very important with these parts, I think it is a wise strategy to use as little solder as possible. Most of the excess solder came from applying solder on the back of the doors before adding the rivets. The capillary action drew the solder right up the holes for the rivets, and puddled up not very nicely around the rivets...
It should also be noted that it is not always neccesary to rmeove the solder, sometimes it works to flux the blobs and reheat the area. With a little luck the blob will flow into a nice, thin layer that the fibre-glass eraser (But I get itches only thinking about those fibre-glass bristles).
In addition to the items on the list I have also tried with some success those braids of copper wire that are made for absorbing excess solder.
Hello Hauk,
I often use desoldering braid to remove excess solder,
as shown for example here: https://www.techspray.com/desoldering-how-to-guide.
Otherwise, I always look forward to your posts!
Quote from: fspg2 on September 19, 2022, 08:52:11 AMHello Hauk,
I often use desoldering braid to remove excess solder,
as shown for example here: https://www.techspray.com/desoldering-how-to-guide.
Otherwise, I always look forward to your posts!
Thanks a lot for the link to the video!
As mentioned I have tried the desoldering braid, but in a rather stupid fashion that me pride stops me from explaining in further detail...
Can't wait to try it the correct way!
QuoteThanks a lot for the link to the video!
As mentioned I have tried the desoldering braid, but in a rather stupid fashion that me pride stops me from explaining in further detail...
Can't wait to try it the correct way!
Well, the correct use worked at least a bit better, but cleaning up solder will probably be a constant pain in the proverbial.
The doors are now officially ready for painting. Time to move on!
646FE0C2-B34A-46D3-9EF6-C5A2989EDAA3.jpeg
That will do. -- Russ
Very nice work on the doors!
Cleaning up solder is definitely a constant pain in the proverbial... ;)
One trick I've used with some success, is to mask around the area to be soldered with Neolube (graphite solution). Solder won't stick to it, so it acts as a barrier preventing outward flow from the solder joint. A quick abrasive blast to cleanup is usually all that's needed, thereby circumventing the need to use the lavishly lethal fibreglass eraser!
Looks great, Hauk!
Primed the doors this evening with Tamiya surfaces primer. I must say that this is an excellent primer. You can lay it down pretty heavy and wet, and it seems to literally "shrink on" as it dries. But the neutral smooth finish really betrays any blemishes in your work! I had totally overlooked that missing rivet, for instance.
2A6F12BA-6387-41CF-B2AD-9E005167283B.jpeg
Nothing much to criticize there. Satisfactory. And I, too, am a fan of Tamiya paints. -- Russ
Hi HauK
yes the surface primer is definitely a superior product.
Cheers
I Must try this Tamiya primer it certainly looks a perfect finish
Barney
Oh blimey, another 120 days without a post...
So just a bump of the thread to say that even if the project has been in hiatus for far too long, I have not given up. Last night I started building the CHB lathe kit I aquired a while back. I am still in a state of awe over the quality of the cast metal parts...
dreiebenk_w.jpg
A beautiful model that will certainly fit well in your workshop.
Bernhard
Good to see you've made a little progress.
Charlie Brommer was a pretty good pattern maker, wasn't he?
Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on March 24, 2023, 12:04:09 PMGood to see you've made a little progress.
Charlie Brommer was a pretty good pattern maker, wasn't he?
Russ
Indeed he was. I would love to learn more about how he made his masters and castings. To me it is downright incomprehensible how he was able to make such detailed and filigree parts using manual tools.
Another small detail for the shop. One of the anvils have gotten a foundation from old ties. I have never seen a prototype for this, but it seemed like a logical solution for a railroad workshop.
I remember those Brommer kits, an absolute joy to put together and a fine surface texture that took paint superbly.
Les
I wonder whether repeated use of the anvil might cause the wood ties to disintegrate. -- Russ
Normal practice for mounting Anvils (even in large industrial workshops) is mount it on A BIG lump of wood it helps cushion the blows of your hammer some work shops used to shape the trunk up a bit more a large square type but others just left as a trunk - the version mounted on angle iron never seemed to cushion to much nothing like the thump of an anvil even when you hit your foot (and this comes from experience ) I have seen sleepers/ ties used but normally bolted together with long coach bolts
Barney
Quote from: finescalerr on March 27, 2023, 11:21:45 AMI wonder whether repeated use of the anvil might cause the wood ties to disintegrate. -- Russ
You probably have a point. I googled for wooden anvil stands, and I did indeed find some made from railroad ties. But all the stands had the timbers standing on end. So it would probably be more prototypical to make a stand from four pieces of ties standing on end. Preferably bridge ties as they usually have an almost square cross-section. The stands I found also had metal bands around the ties to keep them together.
The colors and textures of the anvil are perfect!
"Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days...." Well, then its about time, isn´t it?
Even if its just a "bump of the thread kind of post.
First a couple of shots to show were we left off:
Fokus_stack_rett_paa_w.jpg
Fokus_stack_paa_siden_w.jpg
The workshop is a bit bare at the time, but the plan is to include an engine disassembled for a major revision, with parts spread around the shop.
In reality this means building another Westinghouse engine. This build is described in detail in nother theread, so I will limit myself to an image of truck sides.
boggies_W.jpg
Even if I have not done any modelling during the summer, the project has moved a little further as drawings for the workbenches and the gantry crane has surfaced. The drawings of the crane is especially useful as I otherwise would be forced to just make guesstimates for the lifting trolley. As a certified rivet-counter you all know how much this bugged me.
kran_w.jpg
To be continued.
Good to see you're getting ready for more modeling here.
Hi Hauk.
Great the side frames are very convincing.
cheers
Now that's looking good - in fact better than good its excellent !
Barney
It's been a long time since you updated us on your progress but worth the wait. Everything looks terrific. -- Russ
I'm looking forward to seeing more progress on this!
Quote from: Ray Dunakin on November 21, 2023, 10:28:57 PMI'm looking forward to seeing more progress on this!
Me too! :)
But one of the problems with long breaks with no modelling is that it takes some time to get back in gear.
I takes som sessions at the workbench before I get back in shape.
Not to mention picking up some strangly shaped piece of brass thinking "what the heck did i make this for?"
Quote from: Hauk on November 22, 2023, 12:02:49 AMBut one of the problems with long breaks with no modelling is that it takes some time to get back in gear.
Hi Håvard
I'm very happy to see an update from you! Even if you point out that you haven't spent a lot of time at the workbench last summer, these bogie sides look highly promising to me.
I told you once, how much I love your project no matter how long I have to wait for an update. Indeed, one needs to take a long breath to to pursue such challenges to the end!!!
But I am also alarmed by the fact how perishable modelling skills are. I have become very rusty with my modelling skills too, and had been shocked recently, while trying to restart a new project on my desk: I had not been aware how my hands are shaking after that long absence... :-\
Keep up your inspiring work!
Cheers, Peter
For parts that are just lying around as decoration, the truck sides look really good.
Bernhard
Quote from: Bernhard on November 22, 2023, 12:29:04 PMFor parts that are just lying around as decoration, the truck sides look really good.
Bernhard
They are indeed built for laying around looking gorgeous in the workshop, but as I have revealed in another thread building this is also a way of tricking myself into building the last of the three engines of this tyoe that the Thamshavn Railway operated. So all stops will be pulled for building the engine parts!
As usual, things are not moving fast, but there is at least some progress.
I need a couple of machines for the workshop, mainly a Radial drilling machine. and a wheeel lathe.
A lot of time has been spent researcing the machines, and for the drilling machine there is almost too much information.
But after a lot of headscratching the 3D model is getting close to completion:
Raboma_rendering_01.jpg
The prototype:
liten_raboma_02.jpg
A lot of time is spent learning my ways around Fusion360, and hopfully this is an investment that will pay off in a while!
Gorgeous rendering. It will be challenging to reproduce the polished pedestal. Please post progress photos of this inspirational little project. -- Russ
Quote from: finescalerr on February 25, 2024, 04:13:01 PMGorgeous rendering. It will be challenging to reproduce the polished pedestal. Please post progress photos of this inspirational little project. -- Russ
I cannot remember the scale here, but fairly large I think. If I were doing the dill press I would make the column a separate part from metal tube or rod. Relatively easy to get the right finish then, easier to paint the rest and cylinders are always tricky to print and/or cast anyway.
Agreed about the separate column.
Nice!
Nice little project, Hauk. The drive motor for the drill spindle seems a bit undersized to me, though. It should be a bit bigger.
Bernhard
Looking good - nice detail - drive motor requires a slight rethink
Barney
Hi Hauk.
Always a plesure to follow along.
Cheers Kim
Just a little bump of the thread to prove that i am still at it!
Raboma_rendering_02.jpg
Even a little progress is still progress. Looks good.
Another bump of the thread to show that I have not given up the project.
A test assembly made in a hurry to see if things fit together. It looks promising, even with the sanding residue and a rather unpolished column.
Even though it was a quick project, it looks good and promising, Hauk