Westlake Publishing Forums

I've been working for quite a few months on this diorama, and those of you who follow RR-Line probably already know it. As Russ thought it might be interesting to show it here too, I start this topic.

I'm building this diorama for Troels Kirk's Coast Line RR On30 layout. Since he lives about 2500 km from where I live, the transfer could be difficult, but it should take place next june when the diorama will be exhibited at a French exhibition : "La Convention des Trains du Nouveau Monde" that Troels should attend too.

Dave's Corner owes its name to Dave Revelia, who built several years ago a scene which is the model of this one. This diorama was featured in the 2004 Logging, Mining & Industrial Annual of Finescale Railroader. It is still visible on Mario Rappinett's extensive web site at the following address :

http://www.modvid.com.au/html/body_revelia-boat_repair.html (http://www.modvid.com.au/html/body_revelia-boat_repair.html)

Fitting the scene on Troels' layout required a few small layout changes, that the drawing below, due to Troels himself, shows quite well.

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Now that the work is close to completion, I can say that these changes lead to a very compact scene, probably a bit undersized, but with many focal points in a rather small area.

Here are a general plan of the scene, and elevations and end views for the main building. On these plans, the scale of the square grid is 1 cm (0.4").

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I have been enjoying watching this come together. Mr. Kirk is a lucky guy!

Thank you for starting this thread, Frederic. -- Russ

Frederic

I followed it on the RR-Line Forum.  And it will be my pleasure to follow it all over again.  It is just an outstanding diorama.

Jerry

Thank you for the interest. Soon after I started the diorama, I had to stop for about the two months I spent building the 'Sleepy Time down South diorama' featured in the last annual modeller. Before this I had assembled the platform upon which would be built the main building of the scene, on the right side.

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The nails were suggested by dipping a thin needle point into oil paint (yellow oxyde), inserting the smallest amount of paint possible into a premade tiny hole, wiping the paint with a thin brush and still removing some with the finger.

love the rust application method to the nail head impresions.....excellent.

mike

Thanks, Mike. What I love with this method is that is gives really delicate results.

So, after a few weeks devoted to the bayou diorama, I was able to really launch the building of Dave's Corner scene. The basis was cut out of some 0.4" thick plywood. The pictures show the very beginning of the build. I allways love this step, things look ugly and yet it's the moment when all the relief of the future model is really set.

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The first sceniced places of the diorama. Since this would be a hard to reach part, I started with the small retaining wall on the right of the hoisting ramp (which by the way was later redone so as to provide a less tight grade, after I found a very interesting real place on Flickr). The little fillet of water flowing from one of the pipes is a piece of nylon fishing line. I was surprised by how pleasant it looked on the photo - better than in reality.

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Great to see this excellent diorama here Frédéric. Will be even better to see it in France this summer.

Anders ;D

    Frederic,

    looks good, one comment though.
    The slipway is far too steep. 
     1. The boats will slide off the slipway car. 
     2. A boat will capsize due to the distribution of the bouyancy when the slipway car is hauled up.

     Jacq.

You're right, Jacq, it's the reason why the grade was remodeled later, as I mentioned in the last post, after I found a nice prototype on Flickr.


The wall continued. The rocks were painted and varnished. Black is due to moisture, wet look too...

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With a few algae (polyfiber material also used for tree foliage).

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And it was time to start the main building foundation. I used a white material about 3 mm thick (~1/8"). In France we call it depron and it's used for wall insulation. Some modellers use it for its sound qualities as a roadbed. It's easy to carve (X-acto, the tip of a screwdriver or dontknowthename dentists use to make archaeological research in our mouths...)

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Then the bents that hold the right side wharf. They were assembled using a double jig. The first step was done in the left jig, then a power sander was used to adjust the length of the posts. Then the top beam was glued, the assembly was reverted and inserted in the second jig to make the other side. The sander must be used carefully, to stop removing material when there's only a hair thickness between the cardboard and the rotating sander...

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Here is the whole crew, painted and assembled.

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And finally glued in place, using a much simpler locating jig.

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The next step consisted in adding the relief of the rear part of the diorama. An interesting, sometimes a bit tricky 3D jigsaw puzzle that took several evenings.

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And eventually, the start of the scenery...

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With, in particular, the dumb installation of this big pipe below the high tide level...

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great stuff this is really coming along nicely. I like the colouring of the posts that would be in the water, very real looking.

the stuff the dentists would use for teeth gum impresions would be hydrocal i believe.  Carves easy , colours easy using inks /alcohol mixtures or water based craft paints.

mike

Thanks Mike.
I forgot to mention that the 'round' rocks that surround the pipe were made out of modelling clay.

Upset I was about this too low pipe. So I managed to reinstall it at a higher and dryer level.

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Scenery in the neighboorhood (the earth left on the horizontal beams have been removed since...) :

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The two posts just below the pipe receive more humidity so I made them darker :

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Now dealing with the steep boat hoisting grade. Several people had commented about it and wondered how it could be made less steep. Their suggestions were not perfectly clear to me but I stumbled upon this picture on Flickr :

http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidrsmith/2156685402/sizes/l/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidrsmith/2156685402/sizes/l/)

and everybody agreed that this was a good model. Two sketches were quickly drawn.

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After removing the ties I had initially glued, I restarted the work.

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Sometimes, avoiding a mess with the running matte medium requires some awkward installation :

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but it worked well and finally I got that :

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A few leftover pieces of plaster.

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were painted with tube acrylic colors : Payne grey, burnt umber, raw Sienna and white.

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And finally the green...

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On Dave's original diorama, I wasn't very fond on the little shed in the center part. So I was looking for something else when I discovered this picture on the internet (this shed is located in Gloucester, Maine).

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I asked Troels about changing the design and he agreed so I could proceed. Coincidentally, one of RR-Line members, Paul St-Martin, had some pictures of the other sides of the shed and he sent them to me and authorized me to show them.

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Using this information, I drew a wall on the computer to see if my size estimations were OK

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and installed the resulting mock-up in place.

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Great model building is always good to see.

Thanks for sharing.

Darryl Huffman
darrylhuffman@yahoo.com

Thank you, Darryl.

Let's start the building of the shed. A cardboard core, black side out, white side in, covered with some canson paper chosen because it looked more like wood than the other colors I had. I should have used white and AandIed it as I did on the ship which I'll show later. Well, here I simply painted it with acrylic colors, and decided that, even if it was really not extraordinary, seen through dirty windows with no lights inside it wouldn't be so bad.

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The doors and windows frames were pre-glued. 2mm x 4mm basswood strips. Thickness was computed taking into account that of the outside clapboard siding walls.

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A first attempt at decorating the temporary assembled two first unfinished sides of the building.

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When came the time to make the left side window, I wondered if I could use something available in my various part boxes. Despite a total lack of prevision, luck was with me and the hole happened to have nearly the right size for one of my lasercut S scale windows by Rusry Stumps. Considering I had been blessed by fate, I made the window functionnal as a sort of thanksgiving, as the two pics below show.

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The second side involved less luck and less tiredness...

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After adding the roof (removable in the unlikely case Troels would wish to light my ugly inside walls) and a few new decorating attempts...

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Finally, a few pictures shot on location, with a more serious decorating work.

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This last pic was shot as a way to remind an arrangement of details that pleased me.

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And again on location, after scenicing the place (the glue was still wet when I shot these pictures).

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Excellent results on the shed Frederic (par for your work) The new ramp angle is much more desirable as well. I see many here on our coast that are even less of an incline, but yours would be just right for a deep water frontage.

Love the shed -- both the prototype and the model.

Lots of character. -- Russ

Good to come across here and see this thread Frederic.

As always its a pleasure to see your work

Frédéric, very charming and well executed shed. That last picture is really great.

Anders ;D

Nice work Frederic. -- looking forward to seeing it come together.

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Thanks to all of you for the kind comments.

After working a little on the donkey engine for the hoisting shed, I decided, following Marc's advice, I would build, later, a smaller model. And launched the main subproject of the scene, the main building on the right.

Again, everything was built using a cardboard core. But since we want to be able to look inside, I used more wood.

In order to make temporary assemblies easier, I devised a tabs system that helps maintaining the walls together like a sort of 3D puzzle. The two pictures below show how it works.

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Then I worked on the look of the walls. The inside was weathered, the outside shingling was done using Rusty Stumps S scale lasercut shingles, and then the outside was weathered too.

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Then the boards were made. I scanned a piece of wood to get the right background, wrote the text and printed the sign over some very thin paper. It's very close to a method invented by Karl A. (UKGuy).

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The support for the big sliding door...

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and the door (still unfinished then)...

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And the building in location (but with nothing glued).

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A last sign, simply made using Woodland Scenics dry transfers.

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Starting the interior of the main building. This bench was the first piece I built to populate the inside of the building. The working drawer is an easy detail.

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These benches swallow the goodies much faster than we do them... Progress in my 3D thinking...

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While I was pondering about what to put where, I built the next part, a more involved one, a table saw. It is mainly made of styrene and its size is about 0.8" long, 0.6" wide and high.

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With the motor :

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I've found the inspiration for the model on this site :
http://owwm.com/photoindex/bytype.aspx
I chose "table saw" and got a immense list of saws. Searching only the older ones with a wooden frame, I finally came upon this one :
http://owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=854
which became my model. The motor installation was inspired from this one :
http://owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?ID=1524

Below are a number of shots taken during the construction and detailing the whole process.

I often use my Chopper II to hold parts that are to be glued, be these parts wood or plastic. The chopper provides good right angles and can hold firmly parts or sticks holding parts.
In the first pic, the vertical frame of the saw is being glued. The pic shows the glueing of the second vertical post, the horizontal one was also glued there, using another identically sized part to define the distance between the bottom of the post and the location of the horizontal member.

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In the two last pics, I show how I cut the third vertical post by pushing the partial frame against the saw, inserting the post to be cut against the horizontal member and cutting it flush with the top of the frame. In spite of the slightly untrue cuts due to the shape of the blade, the way the MEK welds parts allows some very good alignment of parts afterwards.

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The next shots show the blade raising mechanism before it's final glueing.

First two angles were lengthened and glued to two of the vertical posts. In order to have a good height alignment, a drill was inserted in the predrilled holes to show if they aligned well.

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Then the arms were made by laminating several strips of styrene and filing them until their shape was good. When I compared the photos of this assembly to those of the model, I found it looked very coarse, so I filed the parts even more, until they had a reasonably thin look.

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Next came the motor. It's mainly done with two concentric styrene tubes, and a 0.04" rod inserted into the smaller tube, plus an additionnal short length of tube for the pulley. The cast frame around the housing is made of HO 1"x2" strips of styrene.

The frame is made of 0.06" angle and 0.02" thick plain sheets. A few NBWs heads complete the detailing. In the penultimate picture, the belt is about to be glued (ACC). It is made of a narrow strip cut into a commercial envelope.

Finally the last shot shows the completed model. The table was also made of styrene, with grooves made with a scriber. The guides are straightforward assemblies of bits of strips and sheets, plus a few tiny parts of rod to simulate the controls. The table was painted with Humbrol Aluminium. The belt weathering was made using the bottom of the bottle where I clean my brushes (in this case, the brush cleaned the bottle), and I used this trick to complete the weathering of the engine. The rust is very thin Polly Scale Boxcar Red. The base colour is Grimy Black, and some Oily Black was also added in the neighboorhood of moving parts.

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You could have done a diorama with just the table saw. Beautiful. -- Russ

Thanks, Russ, I loved building this model. It took some time, something like 6 or 7 hours probably. The drying time of the MEK is a part of it, but not so much since it evaporates reasonably fast, and although not really dry the joint is generally strong enough to continue the work. One point worth being noted is I rarely tackle this kind of complex work without a serious preliminary thinking of the whole project. In the case of the saw, I had no surprise - except that the parts look a bit heavy, which I tried to correct by filing - since all this 'design in the mind' proved to work. Sometimes, you have to change your method because it won't work, or simply because something easier will work as well.

Then, it was time to think to a drill press. In the small space available, I opted for this small machine (found on the same site as the table saw) :

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which was apparently manufactured in the 30s and would fit Troels' era.

The shape of the frame was obtained by first having a piece of 1/16" styrene rod boil and then bending it. Since it didn't really want to hold its shape, I used a lighter to reheat it and obtained the desired shape.
The drill shown below (yet unfinished) required some interesting cross drilling, in particular making a 1.1mm diameter hole in the 1.6 mm (=1/16") bent piece. With a lot of delicacy, it worked reasonably.
The shown model still needed a lot of filing, which was done with a very light hand since some assemblies were quite fragile. It still lacked the motor, belting and a few details, plus clearly paint.

Cross-drilling.

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Some lateral filing on pieces of tube.

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The partly assembled drill press.

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More progress. The extreme close-up reveals some accuracy drawbacks that were again corrected by a little bit of filing when the MEK was totally dry and the bond solid, and also simply by the fact that the model is much smaller than that...

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It was difficult to paint the tiny thing in such a way it looked nice in extreme close-ups, even if it looked fine to my (glassed) eyes. With a lot of filing (the last step with simple canson drawing paper which has a little sanding power), I finally got something I considered reasonable. The shot shows some inaccuracies in the pulley area, but it was concealed later when I installed the belt and put everything on a workbench.

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Here is the drill on a second workbench (only after shooting the pic did I notice the central support was a bit twisted, which was corrected later by regluing it). The table saw is on the other side.

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Insane. -- Russ

Wow, pretty nice work for something so small.

Thanks, Russ and Ray. Sometimes, I just love being insane.

The next 'big' piece was a materials rack. With the help of a simple jig and a bit of patience it worked relatively easily.

The jig.

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One side of the materials rack in the jig and the second one already assembled.

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The finished part in the right foreground.

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The detailing process was relatively long and spread on several weeks.

A belt was added so as the drill could operate, plus a vice and a few hand tools. A few planks on the rack added some interest to it.

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More shelves, some tools and other goodies on the benches, two boards on a wall.

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Among other little things (in particular nude girls that had been asked for for quite a while...), I then showed a bare metal rudder which prompted Troels to suggest a bigger model more conformal to what a real rudder would be

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So he showed several of his own paintings, and in particular this one.

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which inspired me to make this. The piece is 5 scale feet long, it was made out of styrene and painted with Polly Scale acrylics (boxcar red and depot olive).

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A few details were still to be finished when I made this picture (mainly the direction and blotch of white on the metal axis in the middle).

Most satisfactory in every aspect. -- Russ

That´s a beautiful rudder Frédéric!

Anders :o ;D

Anders, Russ, thanks for your interest.

There was a need for a sanitary room in one corner of the main building to hide the electric wire and the connection between the too short wires (bad planning...) and the upper level of this building.
So I built this small room. I simply covered a two-folded piece of bristol paper with planks, made a door and installed the thing so as to hide the wires. The pictures below show the process and are, I think, self-explanatory.

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I also played with photograph then. I suppose you can see what is unusual in this picture of the left side of the diorama.

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The beginning of a ceiling. A part a bit complex to handle.

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More progress on the ceiling and a view of the first floor with the ceiling.

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A little more details added to the first floor. The storage area above the workbench. The wooden vice is in the middle of the bench, and on the right there's the curved plane.

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A close-up on the workbench.

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The shelves (not in their future location).

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It was also time to work on wiring. Two miniatronics bulbs downstairs, a hidden neon light upstairs. Four small pieces of printed circuit board to connect the wires.

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The way I concealed all this electricity (the cardboard crates still needed some weathering).

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Fiat lux!

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Almost everything had been glued in the next pic, apart from the Edgeworth crate and the rusted can on the left side.

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It's the moment when I started to feel that I saw the end of the tunnel for the detailing of the inside of the building (still a few planes, ropes, one or two smaller shelves, a row boat being built).

Frederic. I thought .. "You are a master" .. when I saw the 'Rembrandt' .. I understood  8)

Not bad. I'd be more impressed if it were N scale. -- ssuR

Me too, Russ.

Frédéric, so many nice details every day. The picture with the shed in the distance is excellent!

Anders  ;D

Frederic

Following this the first time was excellent.  It's better the second time around get to see how all this was done and seeing some of the details I missed the first time.

Jerry

Fredric -
You are doing a wonderful job on the detailing, especially in such a tiny scale.

However, I am worried about your placement of that heavy winch/pulley support structure on the 2nd floor, without any support underneath. In fact, it looks like one side isn't even over a joist. I'm afraid that wouldn't lift much (even with it's heavy beams) without the whole mess dropping through the floor.

Carlo

Anders, thanks for the comment about the picture with the shed in the distance. This was one of my first attempts to use a software whose current version name is CombineZP to get a all focused image by shooting a series of pictures with different distances of focus and then letting the software pick in each frame the in-focus part. Compared to the well known HeliconFocus product, Combine has the clear advantage of being a free product, easily download and immediately working without even installing it.
Jerry, I may try to post it a third time if it really improves at every post... :)
Carlo, I'm afraid the building will have to stay the way you see it now since everything has been permanently glued several weeks ago. In fact, I think that the frame may be a little heavy considering the usual load it has to sustain. And I won't forget your advice for other buildings (I have a project of a detail wood worker in S scale that will certainly need many such comments).

It was finally time to add a boat being built to the shop. I happened to have a casting for a dory that perfectly fit the era and place.

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After some filing, she was painted first polly scale concrete, then a mix of raw sienna and white. The colour is reasonably close from that of unstained pieces of basswood, even if it could probably be still improved.
A few sticks were glued below and inside the ship to emulate those shown in the real world picture above, and I think it gives a convincing rendition of a dory being built in the shop.

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Then came the time to complete the wiring of the building.

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There are 8 wires (the red and the blue go to the power source, two are for an outside light, two for the neon light visible on the wall in the picture above, and two for the first floor lamps). A bit afraid of soldering in a tight place full of details that don't like heat - and where rinsing could be difficult - I had built two connectors, each made out of two brass plates held together by two screws and nuts. To make the screwing step as easy as possible, the nuts were soldered to the plates.

Before soldering the nuts

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After

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... and finally I didn't use them and soldered the wires. It took no more than five minutes and the solder flux was cleaned with a wet cloth the morning after... The second pic below has been postprocessed with CombineZ5 to improve the depth of field.

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The wires were then hidden using the junk available on the second floor. The circle shows where one set was soldered. The other solder is hidden behind the cardboard crates.

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A wooden crate with its rear open has been glued to hide the wires.

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From inside there's still something to see but from outside it looks fine, and nobody will be allowed to go inside the building when the diorama is done.

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A few nocturnal shots. The color differences are due to different post-processings with Paint Shop Pro.

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Frédéric, very nice job again - clean and neat job on the boat. I have used Helicon Focus for over a year with great results but will check out this other programme as well. H.F. is about $35.00 a year or $125.00 lifetime.

Anders ;D

Thanks Anders. HF is certainly not very expensive, but you'll certainly agree that Combine is even less...

The making of the roof.

A first jig was used to sand the wood so as to have matching ends at the top of the truss.

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Then, the parts were inserted in another jig and the bottom of the truss was sanded flush with the base of the cardboard.

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I tried this system of double jig for the first time on this diorama and I think it easily leads to very accurate results.

With the trusses ready, the building could start. Two big clear timbers were temporarily glued and act as a jig to install the trusses, they were removed when the purlins were glued...

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When this was done, I could start the dormers. Bristol paper base covered on both sides with planks.

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When they were done, it was time to add the roof. Cardboard base, planked on the inside, covered with a thin sheet of styrene on the outer side, and styrene strips for the seams. Now it was time to become a real artist and make the weathering work.

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The basic coloring was done with acrylics : a little amount of Hooker green and a good amount of titanium white. I made enough of the mix to be able to cover the whole roof. The first shot is before patina, and some places need little repairs (like removing the small green spot on one of the dormers). The styrene had been primed by brushing two coats of Polly Scale acrylic concrete.

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And finally two pictures of the weatherized roof.

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I chose to apply a relatively light weathering, conformal to the fact that's a building in full use (bad English, you're allowed to turn it into good one...).

I've enjoyed following this build on the "other" forum ... and it's nice to see it going again here .... like a favorite, classic movie.  The sets, lighting and cinematography are wonderful.  Just need some popcorn ...

Cheers,
Dallas

That jig series was very helpful to me. I have a lot of trouble with such things and those little tutorials enable me to understand better when and how to use a jig. -- Russ

Thanks, Dallas. I'll try to find some O popcorn - maybe in Mr Mudgeon's pantry between a few model ships and a plane...
Russ, it certainly is worthwhile to consider the use of jigs even for one time jobs. All the things that replace skill with 'automatism' tend to improve our models (and to keep us in a good mental state to go on).

With the roof almost complete, I started the little add-on on the left of the building. Some pleasant 3D carpentry work (the add-on hadn't been glued yet on the pictures below, it was just leaning over a vertical support on its left). The corrugated roof and the end of the inside detailing were still to be done. The chicken wire was done with wedding tulle. I preferred Dave's square pattern but I could only find hexagonal one.

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A sight on the opened paint containers on the right side. They were made of Evergreen styrene tubing, thinned in one end with an X-acto blade, and partially filled with a conveniently sized piece of rod glued with MEK. The inside of the tube was painted steel (Vallejo), the top of the rod with the color of the paint, a few spill hints were added to the label and we're done. Very fast job (by the way, the other round containers are simply pieces of round balsa wrapped with a label, and with the top brushed with the color of the paint in the pot). Better being the best enemy of good, I didn't try to add a handle (I was afraid to ruin everything when drilling the holes). The brush on the plank is one of Dave's charming lasercut parts.

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More details.

The first floor door. Thin planks of stripwood were glued on both sides of a piece of paper precut slighlty smaller than the door, with HO 1x2 for the extra thin strips. The acetate for the windows comes from Rusty Stumps and was dusted with matte medium. Other addition : the wheel on the wall (a sort of old-fashioned logo) and the derelict drum on the left (a nice gift from Larry - BigLars on RR-Line).

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A stack of pallets near the big door, and a leftover piece of chicken wire. I'd also added small rings to the top of the posts. I cut the penultimate ring of a chain to have only one ring, then used some thin twisted electric wire inserted into the post to hold it.

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More details added to the add-on. A table with Dave's tools (it looks better in reality than what the overlit photo shows), a few frames, another of Larry's drums, a piece of corrugated roofing.

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With the add-on :

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And finally, a sad view. The force of destiny...

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A general view with the roof details added.

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The corrugated roofing was then added to the little add-on. I elected to model it only partially rusted.

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And the last metal beam with its hoisting mechanism was installed. The mechanism was essentially made of paper (round pieces were punched, square ones X-actoed), plus two small bits of wood, a short length of brass and two white metal castings for the hooks. Pictures show various steps of the process.

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The last shot shows the double pulley being assembled.

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Finally, a chimney and a Polarine sign were added.

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With the main building essentially, done, next posts will concern the left part of the diorama.

Satisfactory. -- Russ

You are getting some terrific interior shots Frederic! Really superb atmosphere.

Thanks, Russ and Chuck.


Turning now to the left side, I built the frame for the hoist shed - less the roof trusses - the frame of the water tank and the tank itself (to be completed later).

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And probably the most intimidating piece for I had never done something like this before.

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Here are some pictures showing the way I built the ship.

I had the plan of a HO cannery tender about 6" long, which is close to the space available here. I decided that the proportions would be OK, xeroxed it and cut the shape of the deck. Then I transferred this shape on a balsa plank, and also on a thinner one which I used to make the curved deck of the ship. I cut some holes in this deck and balsa plank for the cabin and the hatch over the cargo place. To make support for the curved deck, I added several pieces of balsa on both ends.

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When there was enough height to get a satisfactory curve, I glued the deck on this first layer of balsa.

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Two layers later (before trimming and sanding the third layer) :

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At that moment, I decided to use 'half layers' so as to leave room for a vertical piece of balsa for the keel. We can see this keel slipped between the two first half-layers. Clearly it's not glued and can be removed for trimming and sanding (and in fact, I changed it later since the shape was not very good).

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After installing and sanding to their final shape the last half-layers, here is what we had.

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Then came the planking work. Here are two pics.

The siding was made out of white Canson paper (called Strathmore in the US?), cut in strips reasonably equally wide on a chopper. The pic clearly shows the assembly and cutting process.

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Planking the deck. It's easier than the sides. The planks are simply glued then trimmed, first roughly with wire cutters, then with a file and some sandpaper.

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The deck and the hull were stained with the usual A & I mixture. It gives a pleasant look (and explains why the ship is in a repair area...).

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One can see on this pic a small propeller behind the cabin hole. I couldn't find anything this small (less than 0.4" of diameter) in the local hobby store so I scratchbuilt it starting from a sheet of brass first roughly shaped with metal scissors, then finished with files and bent to a plausible profile. After seeing the pic, I felt it was still a bit rough and filed it a little more. I didn't know Dave's little fan details then...

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I must say that after seeing how easily the thing was done, I have reconsidered some possible marine projects on the Lake Itasca on my Sn3 layout. There might be some room for paddlewheelers there...

More progress on top of the hull. The outside of the thing was done with a lamination of two layers of canson paper again (there's some compound curvature there, and paper is certainly more willing to follow it than wood). Inside a small piece of stripwood gives some thickness.

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After painting, starboard, the bow and the stern. As I mentionned above, I eventually changed the keel. It was too high, and I had forgotten to leave some support for the rudder.

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With some rust added.

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The scuppers were too small so I enlarged them with a small square file.

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Going on with the cargo hatch. It won't be operable, and a few planks make its inside 'core'.

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Then this core is covered with more planks. I used some leftovers from the red shed.

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Checking the fit.

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Making the doors. Not having them operate makes the thing easier. The hinges are cut from canson leftovers.

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Below, a plank was added to make the door sturdy enough for drilling.

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Adding the bolts. Evergreen 0.020" rod was inserted into a slightly larger hole, cut overlong then glued from the inside with ACC reinforced with micro-balls.

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An old technique (which I read many years ago in a Jack Work's article) that I had never tried was used to trim to the same length the heads of the bolts. In a 0.020" thick little bit of styrene, I drilled a 0.032" hole. Then the hole was slipped around the bolt and the styrene plate was used as a thickness jig.

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The finished heads.

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Paint. A standard job : Polly Scale boxcar red, then weathering with burnt umber and a few chalks, plus some red to touch the ends of the planks.

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Next time : the cabin.

Now that is an impressive bit of fabrication. Anybody who can shape and plank a hull has my undying admiration. I would simply have asked Doris to do it. -- Russ

This is an extremely well done documentation  with lots of interesting information and well made details. Will defenitely try your way of making paint cans. Is there a link to Big Lars´ oil drums? Great that your´e posting all these pics. Frédéric!

Anders ;D

Thanks for the sbs Frederic on a great looking vessel. One comment on the finish however. Wouldn't there be discoloration at and below the waterline? Boats here, in only a short time in the water, acquire a dark greenish black tint to the hull. Longer times in the water lead way to barnacles and scum. (I'm reminded to clean my own filthy hull at this time)

Russ, I had the same feeling before trying my hand at it. On a simple model like this, it was really an easy job, that by no means could justify asking for the help of Doris, the Sovereign of the Seas.
Thanks for the comment, Anders. Larry's drums have appeared on several occasions on RR-Line forum. There's no specific link, he just cast and sent a couple of them to me and other members of RR-Line as a sign of friendship.
Chester, your comment about the color above and below the waterline is perfectly right. I remember somebody had already told me and I forgot to make it. I'll have to remind to darken the bottom of the hull. Thanks for it.

Then it was time to build the cabin.

It was built around a core of bristol paper, to be covered on both sides since both will be visible.

At the beginning, it never looks very nice...

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Planking the inside gives some sturdiness to the thing. The spaces between some planks will allow the bristol to be folded.

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Beginning of the outside planking. The most delicate places are on the sides of the windows since there's really not a lot of paper to fold there. With the added rigidity provided by the plank, it becomes easy.

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Done (but not glued).

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After sanding, the inside was painted mahogany (Vallejo acrylic). It's a bit luxurious but in this time there were many fishes...

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The outside is still to receive its 'coat' of peeling white, following the technique already described for the hull.

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It was a pleasant moment.

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Trimming of the cabin done, as well as the windows. The ship still lacked a door, a roof and some interior details.

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After the addition of these missing details.

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The wheel house with the wheel. Since this will be barely visible, I simply added two levers.

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The making of the door. The core is a plank of 'samba' wood. Don't know the english name for this one.

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A hole was made for the porthole (a 2 mm diameter drilled hole was enlarged then finished with a round file, until the brass porthole fit exactly). Then one of the sides was covered with planks of basswood.

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Again, the hole was cut into this planks (X-acto plus file). The process is a bit hard and one of them got unglued but everything was soon OK.

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Then, the other side was covered with vertical strips of canson paper, and again the hole was cut into these strips.

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Finally, two small strips of paper were glued for the door opening mechanism, they were painted brass (Revell) and on both sides a pin head was inserted (it's a bit delicate since you can't leave a long shank but it wasn't so hard. Inspired by all the madness running in many topics, I decided to add the little metal part that maintains the door closed (sorry, I don't know how to say it in english) [I have since shortened this piece which was a little long, I think, in this first version]. In any case, I also suggested the female counterpart of this male part by painting a little black square on the brass strip I put on the frame. It was really an easy detail to make, and I think it adds a lot to the door.

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The inside of the cabin. A first piece of balsa was cut and sanded to fit the wedged shape of the cabin. It was cut wide enough to not reach the front wall of the cabin. Then a second piece was added behind it to increase the thickness. This second one is more narrow and no special effort was made to make it fit exactly between the side walls.

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A square strip of wood was added to hold the wheel. Finally, all the visible wood was covered with canson paper, and painted mahogany (Vallejo). Then, the wheel was added as well as two small styrene levers the ends of which were heated with a lighter to give them the characteristic ball form.

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And then she was declared done. Well, a number of pieces might still be added due to the work being done on the ship by Dave's crew, but they won't really belong to her.

I had already made a brass propeller. I used a file to give a piece of styrene tubing the ovoidal shape we often see at the end of the propeller axis on real boats.
The rudder was made with a lamination of two pieces of canson paper. The axis is a short length of 0.025" Evergreen rod.

And as you probably have guessed now,  Troels' wife's first name is Anne.

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Next time, the cart for carrying the ship out of water, and the finishing of the water tank, and then the remaining topic will be live from the work bench.

Satisfactory. -- Russ

I'm glad you like it, Russ...

Not a lot to say about the water tank. It's cardboard over a roll of sopalin like paper. The cardboard was painted with acrylics then covered with chalks.

The cradle was built to look like a real one I'd found on Flickr. It's certainly big in this small facility, but I liked the mechanic game with the various pieces of timber.

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A shot of the cradle without the ship. I thought I would add more texture to the rusty plates but I'm not sure since they are barely visible. And the whole thing is quite fragile since there is some play to allow for an optimal placement of the vertical supports, and the little wood pieces that maintain the things in their position are not glued (so that if Troels wants to change the boat he could - except if until the moment when I give him the dio, it has dislocated itself so many times that I decide to glue everything... [:)] ).

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A general view. The cradle was installed just near the rails since it rolls quite well and the slope is steep...

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To finish with this and make the transition with the next posts that will show the work currently being done, here is the concept for this part of the scene. The Anne arrived the day before for a quite long repair job. The planks and ropes that maintained her while she was hoisted has been removed but left near or on the ship.  The workers have prepared the pieces for the scaffolding they will assemble to help them make the paint job, but for the moment they are just there, leaning against the water tank support. They also started to gather paint, and brought a new, bigger rudder to replace the small initial one. All the detailing implied by this concept is yet to be added to the diorama.

After a fortnight spent in the mountains of Coloregon on the Sn3 layout, it's time to come back to Maine, and the last bravura piece of the diorama. I have a double source for the hoisting donkey. A while ago, Marc sent me numerous pictures of various brands of donkeys, among which an AH&D one. And I happen to own a copy of  W.M. Harris' "Logging with steam - Steam Logging in the 1880s" in which he lavishly describes how he scratchbuilt a number of 1 1/2 scale models, including an AH&D donkey.

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The last picture shows the brown lasercut nuts by VectorCut. The hole of the nut is about 0.024". I made a mistake and installed round washers instead of nuts (I don't have my 20 year old man eyes...). I decided to leave them though, since it is a remote location and changing would probably result into a worse state.

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The plans for the drums axes frames and the making of the left ones.

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Since I was not very keen on cutting through 0.08" thick styrene, I printed four plans and made two pairs of frames which I finally laminated to get the right thickness. This is definitely not micro-mechanics accuracy but I think it doesn't look too bad.

The four plans were first taped over the 0.04" styrene sheet and the main cutting points were punched through them. Then they were just shifted near the frames to provide some visual reference. The slender extension at the bottom of the frame is a strip of Evergreen I added when everything else was done.

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Time to put the lathe in operation to machine the conical part and the stack of the boiler out of a piece of brass. The little cylindrical part in the bottom acts as a pin when I connect the top to the bottom of the hard wood boiler.

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And with the wooden bottom (still to be improved...).

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Great looking cradle Frédéric! Not much work remains I´ll guess. ???

Anders ;D

Well, the donkey will need some attention. There are many small details and some precise fitting.

Keep going. I like it. - Russ

Thanks, Russ. I'll keep.

The frames for the second drum have been done. While I had followed Steve Harris' relatively 'heavy' design for the end frames, I chose to make those lighter according to Marc's drawings. I think they are indeed nicer. The gears engage reasonably, and the mechanism might work... The white marks on the side of the donkey are putty, and the donkey was covered with a styrene 'cap'. I just forgot to push completely the conical top...

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Yesterday and today progress : detailing the gears and drums.
Circles have been cut with an Olfa circular cutter to cover the gears as per the AH&D prototype. The ratched was hand carved with an X-acto (easy to see...)
The small collets around the axis were done starting with a 1/8" piece of rod. Since there seemed to be a mark at the center of the rod, I decided I could hand drill a concentric hole in order to make it into a tube. So I progressively drilled, starting with 0.04" then 0.06" then 0.08" then 0.095". This makes a tube with wall 0.015" thick, so one has to use a very delicate end with the bigger drills, but I'd say it was really easier than expected.
Then I set my Chopper II to cut 0.04" thick, and I cut the collets (I didn't try to cut them in one time but rather made partial cuts and rotations to have a piece as flat as possible).
Finally, I was so proud of my little parts that I managed to glue one on the wrong side (it is missing on the left gear, in the first pic). So tomorrow, I'll cut two additionnal ones and add them where I had not expected to do it (making the mistake everywhere is a way to correct it). In fact, I'll cut four since I'll use two more to set the position of the axes on the frames.

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And even six, maybe...

Looking good Frederick. I found that I had to use the same process cutting tubing on my chopper .. a slight cut .. rotate .. cut .. rotate .. cut .. rotate .. until the slice falls over. Just chopping through you will get crooked cuts.

Next step : the flywheel and the associated fittings. The first picture shows a set with the flywheel (visible) + an eccentric (hidden) + eccentric rod (visible) + one of the two halves of the valve rod (visible). Currently I am not totally happy with the valve rod and may change it.
The second picture shows the flywheel and the eccentric (the second eccentric rod hasn't yet been done).

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As I said yesterday, I was not very happy with the design of the valve rods, so I made two new, thinner ones. In the two shots below, a temporary rod connects the eccentric rod to the valve rod, to show how rotating the eccentric allows the valve rod to move back and forth.

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The assembly is looking good, but the slots in those white wheels need some clean-up ... perhaps the tip of a small round file to remove the burrs.  (Okay, so you probably know this already, I'm just saying it anyway.)  ;)  -- Dallas

Back to the boiler.

After a closer examination of the plans sent by Marc, I removed two small boards on the sides of the channels to model a more prototypical crosshead guide.
After two days of laminating, glueing, thinking, filing, sanding, thinking, swearing, reglueing, drilling, reglueing, searching the little rascals (NBW that is), swearing, reglueing, the two cylinders were finally done...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg51.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F8%2Fb%2Fb%2Fdavecorner373-26791bc.jpg&hash=2fbc9b941e083bbbc62145880681839488c571dc)

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The pics are much bigger than the real thing, and this increases the texture to the point that things nearly unnoticeable in real become conspicuous. Below is an image closer to the real size.

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Then I painted the frame. Dirty but not too worn.
The wooden boiler was wrapped with some 0.0052" thick styrene riveted with a rivet wheel (later, you'll see that I was not too satisfied of my work and finally added a myriad of NBWs).
The valve rods were completed and installed, and the piston rod and crosshead started on one side.

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A few more shots. Even with the time devoted to pictures, plus the remaking of a part that has flewn into the ether, the second one was made much faster now that the concept had been created...

At assembly time, the Evergreen strips are kept long enough to ease their handling (except those which location would make the cutting difficult or impossible).

The north side...

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The south side...

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The same thing after trimming :

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And the basis of the donkey :

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On to the connecting rod. The hardest job : drilling two 0.6mm holes in a 1mm wide strip. It requires care and politeness...
It was still working at that time (but I still had to make the other side...)

The two first shots show the assembly concept. The plastic rod has 1mm (0.04") diameter.

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And when it was done, an uinfortunate wrong glueing made the thing immobile for the eternity... Which is frustrating from an intellectual standpoint but not a practical one, since nobody would have been able to turn the gears once the thing is concealed inside its shed...
Other additions : the clutch handles and their supports, and the covers of the pillow blocks, with their VectorCut nuts.

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And the final progress before starting the piping : brake bands and pedals. I was afraid the bands could be difficult to install in the relatively awkward space, but it worked very well in fact.

I was not very happy with my wheel rivets, so I drilled a few holes and planted a few tichies.

I drilled holes for the various boiler fittings and painted it grimy black.

And I made the steam gauge (hope it's the right name, if not please correct). A short length of evergreen tubing was painted humbrol brass, then I inserted an even smaller length of concentric rod. On top of this I glued a print of a real thing cut with a punch. Finally, I added a piece of transparency material (also punched). I put it on top of the piece of tube, delicately added a small drop of ACC glue, and used a pin to draw it under the transparent piece all around the piece of tubing. In general, the thing you're glueing ends on the floor and you just have an awful blob of glueish plastic to throw away, but gods were in my team today!

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One more work session alowed me to add most of the fittings (I was then waiting for some tubing for the main pipes). Thanks to Precision Scale and Cal Scale for their great castings...

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When I got the tubing I could make the piping. The piece was made out of five parts of brass tubing, with evergreen styrene used to connect them, as well as to avoid distortion when I bent the tube. The connections were made out of paper, and one of them was later filed because it was too thick.

Before adding the central part :

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After :

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Almost done, finally, with the end of the piping. To avoid any problem with the fitting of the pipes in the top of the boiler, I milled two slots in the bottom of the cone, so that when the pipes were installed I simply had to slip the cone over them. It seems to be close to actual practice by the way, since these conical hats were often articulated so as to ease the transport of the machine, I guess.
To avoid any breakage, I've decided not to add any detail to this conical top, and I won't either install the rods connecting the boiler to the side frames. In spite of this, I've broken the end of the crank that actuates the clutch of the forward drum. Since I'm afraid any attempt to repair might make things worse, it will stay this way...

Only thing still to be done : adding the two gipsy drums at the ends of the axis.

The slots :

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Piping partially done :

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Three shots of the (nearly) done hoist :

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The two gipsy heads were turned out of translucent rod which I simply shaped with a file. The shot below shows that no special care was used to make two identical parts, but I think they look ok on the model.

Here is the complete donkey inside the shed. The donkey is too short so I'll add a vent above it as in engine houses.

The gipsy heads before painting them :

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The partially assembled roof. The two end triangles were installed first, and then the longitudinal planks were glued to act as guides for the other triangles (and provide some support for glueing).

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The finished shed (still lacking its corrugated cover) and the hoist.

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Your donkey came out nice. That was a lot of fabrication. All that work and now to cover it up!

Nice work Frederic, it does seem a shame to cover it up.

A scratchbuilt donkey and he hides it in a shed! The man is nuts. Very nice job, Frederic. -- Russ

Thanks for the comments. You were not alone to say that it was a bit crazy to hide such a work, so it was decided that the roof of the shed was undergoing some major repair, with the replacement of old corrugated by some newer one. I'll post it soon.

Very Nice!
After just recently finishing a donkey "kit" I am very impressed!
Not sure I would really want to fabricate a donkey!
-Marty

Very nice!

With the donkey done, it was time to start the completion of the dio.

Scenery was added to the rear of the diorama. Ivy comes from Ian Hodgkiss' store (artizen here). It flew like an arctic tern : it left Europe and went to Australia and then came back to Europe. Not very good C02-wise, but I thought it was nice to purchase it from a forum member. The weeds come from Jadar store in Poland.

Other details : the telegraph pole, a partial cover of the roof in repair with reasonably new sheets on one side, rusted ones not yet removed by the workers on the other side. A few planks and another workbench to a side of the hoist shed, plus a few more details to the ground. The compressor motor is an inexpensive casting by Life-Like.

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I tried to avoid overdoing the scene. The pictures I've been able to download showing marine operations show clutter but not overclutter in general.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg52.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F7%2Fd%2F4%2Fdavecorner411-27c3361.jpg&hash=ac897b193ef40db1524ef871a3d957dd0ebaab4f)

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I purposedly chose the standing out colors of the drum, partly because it provided a more pleasant base to add rich rusty colors, partly because I thought the place was a bit "sad" (it's not the perfect word) with all the dark colours and this touch of light would enhance the whole thing.

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Wood for the boiler. The wood was cut out of branches of thyme, and I think they look reasonably like the pulpwood Troels has stocked in his neighbor mill on the Coast Line RR.
The thyme being cut (with the rail nippers, not the chopper). Not a very tidy job...

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The first layer of wood, and glue waiting for level 2.

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The hose starting from the water tank, that the crew connect to the hoist when it is used, was made out of 1mm diameter solder. A homemade tin cover was added to the top of the water tank, with a rock to hold it against the Maine wind.

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The "vent" over the boiler stack. No plan used, just followed some pictures to get what seems a reasonably convincing device.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg63.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F1%2F4%2F2%2Fdavecorner422-28021e4.jpg&hash=68d805457a7319634a894722cc932932537fa14d)

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Next, it was time to make the buoy. It was made after a model by Marc Reusser displayed here : http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=316.90

First the method used to perform an angled cut.

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Then the technique used to cut the half-circles on the upper part of the buoy. Full circles were made using increasingly large drills and then a triangular file to enlarge them to the right diameter (I marked a pencil line on the file to get the same radius on all circles). Finally the strip was cut lengthwise to obtain the half circles..

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And finally the assembly jig, drawn on the computer.

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Several steps :

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If I haven't made a counting mistake, there are 141 different parts in this model.. Next it was time to paint it.

A first layer of rust color. First Polly Scale Boxcar red, then a mixture of Golden Burnt Umber and Burnt Sienna. Great acrylic paint, impressive adhesion on plastic, impressive covering.

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Then a coat of orange on the basis, and the same color applied by tapping the end of the brush on the upper part. Paint was then scratched with finger nails or bits of wood, and rust (the same as above) was applied in the resulting holes. Finally, a light wash of Vallejo umber and a few more dabs of rust. I'll have to sand it lightly and it will be declared done. Below are three views under slightly different angles.

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Your scene is coming together nicely Frederic! I have really enjoyed your black and white pics on the RR Line this month.

Nice that the open roof of the shed allows more light in to view the donkey better. Like the buoy. All quite convincing Frederic, nice job.

I really like the buoy. Everything else looks good, too. -- Russ

Hmmm...that bouy design looks familiar.  ;D

Marc

Marc, your model was a very good source of inspiration, and your being so kind as to post some measures wasn't bad either.

Thanks, Chuck, Russ, Chester.

With the diorama getting closer to completion, there were mainly details to add or finish.

The dog is a little bigger in the picture than in reality... :)

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Two good friends are watching each other.

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I made the various parts of the scaffolding out of 0.02" and 0.04" diameter styrene rod, as the photos below show. I even drilled some starting holes in the upper end of the vertical rods to emulate tubing but I think it won't be very visible...
The styrene was primed with burnt sienna, tapped with some Polly Scale yellow for a peeling paint effect, then I added a few hints of raw umber and dark green, before adding a few splashes of the paints used by the workers (what I also did on the planks).

The remaining to-do list : the covers of the paint pots, a hook on the craddle, and the carrying box.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg41.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F0%2F7%2F5%2Fdavecorner438-2842c7c.jpg&hash=186f8ca5fa2636099f4f6431146cb53dbdd840bf)

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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg41.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F3%2F7%2Fa%2Fdavecorner440-2842c89.jpg&hash=abda312556ab4dbf2bb3f29d94fc298f374fe25c)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg41.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F4%2F3%2F7%2Fdavecorner441-2842c8d.jpg&hash=88d194676f01ea30a513c9ae788e63b29c48394d)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg41.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F9%2Fe%2F1%2Fdavecorner442-2842c92.jpg&hash=8918145b7391d2cca3f78c60fec36c2162aa0656)

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After a number of comments on RR-Line, I swapped the big pots for smaller ones. I kept three big ones but tried to have not covering labels, and I used Dallas' hints for the brands, with the "wet paint" of the Dutch Boy company, and Valspar old looking signs on the smaller cans. I also added three Vector Cut brushes...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg41.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2Fe%2F0%2Fc%2Fdavecorner444-2878db8.jpg&hash=001f3a0fd8cb74ed766d4e85b9cbfb2e3407349d)

The last detail I wanted to add is the hook on the craddle. It being done is indrectly proven by the photo, considering the fact that the craddle for the first time is shot with the wheels on the rails, and that the cable is tight.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg41.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2Fa%2F0%2F0%2Fdavecorner445-2881dd7.jpg&hash=004b2183ba002cd8127857a86a3cdf8a6f0a848a)

After a suggestion by Kris on RR-Line, I put a light coat of rust on the wheels of the craddle. It is still a bit clean on this close-up shot, but I think it's OK in real life.
Shot reprocessed with Combine, starting with only two views, to have both the boat area and the background in focus.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg41.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F9%2Fc%2F8%2Fdavecorner446-289a212.jpg&hash=5359f2a5781460e9332852304f970f7b0452d840)

Everything looks fine. Well, one thing is a little humorous: Your dog is more shiny than any dog I've seen. He looks as though somebody dipped him in liquid Lucite.

I know you can't really see that under actual viewing conditions but I had to tease you a little.

Russ

He was so happy to find his friend he started to cry and the sun made the tears shine, Russ...

Looking Good Frederic.

I like the scaffolding detail (I actually have one of those in my garage)..... I may have to copy your idea. ;D


Marc

  Hello Frederic,  Great little scene :) 


   Randy

Nice! I really like the old scaffold parts.

Thanks for the comments about the scaffolding. It was really an easy job, and quite rewarding.

With the diorama completed about one month before I would give it to Troels (and after no more than 20 months spent on it...), I had time to shoot it under many angles, many lights and many moods...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg41.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F4%2F8%2Fb%2Fdavecorner447-289d11a.jpg&hash=16daa929181e55cd60f48899260ffb4b35a47f63)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg41.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2Fd%2F3%2F8%2Fdavecorner448-289d122.jpg&hash=ac42a90d5be2508272d6ff97c800dd04a8ef53be)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg41.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F1%2F8%2Fe%2Fdavecorner449-289d12b.jpg&hash=789eed734ff845a7c22af356cb113b7f1bc9a388)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg41.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2Fe%2F1%2Ff%2Fdavecorner450-28a149c.jpg&hash=d240568d0543bf2c9f2f600bae63edfe418ceb88)

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Dave's by night...

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Strangers in the night, exchanging glances...

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More to come.

Satisfactory. -- Russ

Frederic,

nice work. I really like the night interior photographs which are very atmospheric- the workbench, tools and boat under construction in are superbly executed.

James

Congatulations on finishing it Ferderic! Troels should be well pleased. 20 months... this was a quickie!

Frederic, the diorama and the finish photos are very nice and thank you for the great SBS.

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/

Congrats on a really nice build Frederic. I particularly like your gantry and the boat cribbing. The night shots have a nice ambience but don't allow the viewer to see your great finishes.

Great pictures of a very nice build. Have to go and inspect it at Kirk´s place in a couple of weeks. After that I will wright my final review......just kidding!

Anders  ;D

Thanks to all of you for the nice comments.

Chuck, I knew you would find 20 months a rather small time for a dio... :) :)
James, as you may have noticed, in fact the interior detailing is still rather sparse in spite of the presence of some interesting pieces.
Thanks, Gordon, but my SBS are still much less detailed than yours. I'll see if I can adapt one of your truck buildings to my S scale which is going to be my main modelling focus now (back to the layout).
Chester, indeed the night shots are a really interesting exercise, and their postprocessing is almost as pleasant. See below for some fun.
Anders; now I'm really scared... :)

Here is a Photoshopped extension of one of my pictures. It was made by Greg Shinnie, a member of RR-Line.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.railroad-line.com%2Fforum%2Fdata%2FEnsign%2F2011512184018_davecorner456-28ad054.jpg&hash=324e37b2563f78dc8d983220021e12370846fdec)

I used his pic to make this new B&W

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg66.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F7%2F5%2F7%2Fdavecorner459-28adc35.jpg&hash=60b62da8502c8ce84caa77392dcaa50ec19d992c)

then added some Paint Shop Pro mist...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg71.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2Fd%2F1%2Fd%2Fdavecorner460-28ade8f.jpg&hash=8dfb38c3c63dd5f5ba848e310377517b452e7d09)

A few more. After all the work, this picture making period was a very pleasant time.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg73.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2Fb%2Fa%2F9%2Fdavecorner461-28b4ed7.jpg&hash=0d8ae65546f47fb1acd81fcea1fd2745a714dee5)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg70.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F8%2F7%2F8%2Fdavecorner463-28b4edd.jpg&hash=968b1cbd69da90805f64680f37a46f7b937abcb4)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg68.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F4%2Fe%2Fc%2Fdavecorner464-28b4ee1.jpg&hash=fa1c0696468eab32103b5e05f49350e6f04a9db8)

Black and white, with a little mist.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg73.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F2%2F6%2F8%2Fdavecorner462-28b4eed.jpg&hash=9bf20f3be10322db4316d8f72977e6562a78e2ac)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg66.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F0%2F3%2F9%2Fdavecorner465-28b4efc.jpg&hash=46cc2eacc447ccbe4d6bc8a81068905d3ade68cb)

You might find some interest in seeing my setup for the nocturnal shots above and in the previous posts. The tripod, some sheets of Black Canson paper behind the dio, then I wait for the sunset, close the curtains, set the exposure time to 15 s, sometimes add a little white light on the side to undarken the details, then some postprocessing on Paint Shop Pro.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg71.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2Ff%2Fe%2Fd%2Fdavecorner470-28c82e3.jpg&hash=82daef5a78c10c55f515e9ff68f3e411d6455fd9)

I think it's now time to come to an end with this topic. First the last shots.
More than 100 pics were shot and then processed in CombineZP, a program that works like HeliconFocus to find the in-focus parts of the shots and assemble everything in an image in focus almost everywhere. In fine, I got about 15 such images.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg72.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F8%2F9%2Fa%2Fdavecorner471-28e11ec.jpg&hash=8a731c56dde91e3f06ecba3cb45dbd3456356722)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg71.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F5%2Fd%2F2%2Fdavecorner473-28e11f0.jpg&hash=3ae73eac3bd08063a3db3d9ec06216153434c378)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg73.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F3%2Fa%2F6%2Fdavecorner474-28e11f6.jpg&hash=7e718d8e57388176e493119b6f59ed72a046969e)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg71.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F6%2Fd%2F9%2Fdavecorner475-28e11fa.jpg&hash=669843346613bb122f244dddf54eccbf7fe8630e)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg70.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2Ff%2F1%2Fd%2Fdavecorner475bis-28e1202.jpg&hash=bdd72fb356e90e8ed5776ed6f6491c507f6f4a67)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg66.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2Fe%2Fe%2Fe%2Fdavecorner476-28e8280.jpg&hash=c65237d82bea8ec26cdb99b56ad82f7397c114ec)

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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg71.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F4%2Fd%2Ff%2Fdavecorner478-28e8295.jpg&hash=a4bf26f2033ffcb01dd2ee26d0485f9a01314e48)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg70.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2Fe%2F3%2F1%2Fdavecorner479-28e82a5.jpg&hash=069667cacb2c19aa174da3ac2a4410a2685345c3)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg74.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F7%2F5%2Fe%2Fdavecorner480-28e82ae.jpg&hash=c47a4359652df6c88523c09bbaf1ec2bbaca276c)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg73.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F2%2Fa%2Fc%2Fdavecorner482-2913924.jpg&hash=41b63f2067aa180ef912111ad932d0884237d614)

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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg70.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F1%2F4%2Fc%2Fdavecorner484-2913954.jpg&hash=35e9704f11dc45420aa8d0bbfda2933a63363498)

With some fog again...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg68.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2Fa%2F8%2F0%2Fdavecorner481bis-28e8a32.jpg&hash=e1d80413c7f19a7667871122a88e1799727ff364)

and the original picture for the foggy one above. These graphic softwares are impressive...

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg75.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2Ff%2F3%2F6%2Fdavecorner481-28ebb0c.jpg&hash=028e717e18b38de309b8bbf0b84b3f8893b7a33a)

And finally a few ones shot outside in a sunny but windy day...

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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg72.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2F5%2F5%2Fe%2Fdavecorner489-2985d9b.jpg&hash=1db9ae36975e1df1eb3de73d8251f54c1a7a701f)

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg72.xooimage.com%2Ffiles%2Fe%2Fc%2Ff%2Fdavecorner490-2985dad.jpg&hash=2390f6f9c07805ddc2dbfdc218197a9aa4f64bfd)

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Then it was time to enclose everything in the box. Not really modelling, but a necessary last job before the long trip to Sweden.

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On June 12th, the diorama was donated to Troels during the "Convention des trains du Nouveau Monde" in the center of France, at Noyant d'Allier. This was a great moment, and I felt very happy too when Troels offered me this wonderful painting of a scene on my Sn3 layout, with some Swedish snow added.

(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.railroad-line.com%2Fforum%2Fdata%2FFrederic%2520Testard%2F2011619105641_noyant09.jpg&hash=95fbc45fd1a173da85cf50cdadb7aef0b9b0432a)

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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.railroad-line.com%2Fforum%2Fdata%2Fkirk%2F201162092353_noyant10.jpg&hash=996ddaa21caf425e1e3bb6b11e37dd8800a4a5f9)

The most recent pics of Dave's Corner can now be seen in vol.4 of the Coast Line RR topic on RR-Line, with the installation by Troels of the diorama.

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=32687&whichpage=40

Satisfactory indeed, Frederic. So is Troels' painting. -- Russ

Beautiful pictures Frederic! They are a nice extension to a model project. Thanks for the info; I want to try the focusing software.

Nice photography indeed! I too need to do something about the field of focus.  Perhaps someone (ahem) would do a walk through with their software in the tips and techniques section.

Good idea, Chester, I'll try to post something.

Cool. Is the diorama held secured in the box with screws? Or did you just carry it carefully and remember not to turn the box over?

One screw held the diorama. It was enough since I screwed one of the corners while the opposite corner was steadily pushed against the corresponding corner of the box. And it worked since it has been carried to Sweden with no damage.