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1/35 scale auto repair shop

Started by Malachi Constant, May 15, 2010, 08:04:07 PM

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Craig_H

#45
John,    Here's some knob & tube.  Got this pic somewere a couple days ago??   Is this cool  ;) ;D     Craig

Ray Dunakin

What is the white porcelain doohickey in the first photo??

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

Craig_H

I think its a light switch.....the knob is just on the bottom to turn it on and off.

Malachi Constant

#48
Hey Craig --

Neat photos ... thanks for posting them where I might actually find them again!  I'll simply bow in deep respect to anyone who has the patience to model those bits convincingly in 1/35 scale ... I'd consider giving it a try in 1/24 ... and if I ever switch to 7/8" scale or 1:12 scale, then it'll be a must!  ;)

On a related, but simpler note ... here are a couple of early porcelain fixtures for more contemporary wiring.

PS -- All this reminds me of some very, very early electric train catalog I saw that showed kids how to make their own batteries using a fish tank, lead sheet and acid!  Ah, those were the days.  BZZT!   :o

Cheers,
Dallas
-- Dallas Mallerich  (Just a freakin' newbie who stumbled into the place)
Email me on the "Contact Us" page at www.BoulderValleyModels.com

JohnP

Yes sir knob & tube- when your first home is an old farmhouse that was bought to do a little fixin' up, there is no end to the wonders of what is behind the horsehair plaster. Indeed, on that house I could see where they cut the lath to install the new-fangled electric lights!

I think DaKra Dave could make those switch plates for you. Of course PAP would work for the porcelain fixtures.

John
John Palecki

Malachi Constant



Started on some windows following one of Ken's tutorials:
http://public.fotki.com/khamilton/models/model_how-to/
(Thanks Ken!)

These will be large, horizontal windows with one sash fixed in place and the other sliding ... hope to get to the frame assemblies soon ...
-- Dallas Mallerich  (Just a freakin' newbie who stumbled into the place)
Email me on the "Contact Us" page at www.BoulderValleyModels.com

Malachi Constant



Well, no-one has said so, but those muttons, muntins and/or mullions did look a bit heavy ...



So I replaced them with smaller mullions cut from styrene and painted to (approximately) match the stripwood ... before and after shot above ... now it's on to the casings or outer frames or whatever the mutton those parts are called ... thanks again, Ken.

Cheers,
Dallas
-- Dallas Mallerich  (Just a freakin' newbie who stumbled into the place)
Email me on the "Contact Us" page at www.BoulderValleyModels.com

Malachi Constant

#52


First time I've scratchbuilt a working window ... and it actually does work!  One sash is fixed, other slides .. exterior view above ...



Interior view ...



Very close to actual size of 1 x 1-7/8" on a 19" monitor ...

Cheers,
Dallas

-- Dallas Mallerich  (Just a freakin' newbie who stumbled into the place)
Email me on the "Contact Us" page at www.BoulderValleyModels.com

eTraxx

Ed Traxler

Lugoff, Camden & Northern RR

Socrates: "I drank WHAT?"

shropshire lad

What you have built there , Dallas , is a Yorkshire "jack sash" sliding sash window .Just in case you wanted the technical term . Originally found , yes you've guessed it , in Yorkshire , England .

   Nick

finescalerr


Ray Dunakin

Very nice. The thinner mullions are definitely a big improvement!

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

Malachi Constant



Well, I've just been making little bits of progress here and there, so I'll post a "work-in-progress" shot ...

-- Used Magic Sculp to add glazing to the window panes, a bit of a chore, but it shows up even in this photo ...
-- Printed the large Sinclair sign on very thin paper, stiffened with ACC and weathered ... then installed with genuine, authentic fake scale nails.  (That is to say, the real fake nails ... not some cheap knock-off)  8)
-- The large wood sign looks a bit wobbly, cuz it's just held up with poster-tack now ... that was initially done by laying dry transfers onto some white paint, then peeling them off after the red paint was added ... then I went back and re-shaped and outlined the letters in an attempt to make it look like it was done by a local sign painter.  Hoping that Mr. Mudgeon will get up that ladder soon, pull down the poster-tack and nail the sucker in place.
-- Paper signs are just place holders ... genuine fake tin signs underway ...

-- Also, there are nails in the siding, but none in the battens yet ... I've gathered a collection of extremely fine wire and still have to sort out which type to use for the smaller nails in the battens ...

Stay tuned ... but don't hold your breath or anything drastic!  ;D
-- Dallas Mallerich  (Just a freakin' newbie who stumbled into the place)
Email me on the "Contact Us" page at www.BoulderValleyModels.com

Malachi Constant



Planning to add some shelving inside the shop, and want it to look like the shelving is a fairly recent addition ... so dug out some scraps of pine that have been kicking around here (indoors) for a number of years.  They've never been stained, sealed, etc ... just seem to take on a golden tone as the wood ages.  Mixed up some Daler Rowney Acrylic Artists Inks (Raw Sienna and Sepia) -- first thinned slightly with water, then added to 91% isopropyl alcohol to make the stain.  On each level above, the first piece is raw basswood, second piece has been dunked in the stain once, third piece dipped twice.  Good starting point ... also useful "as is" ...



Let the stain dry for 15-20 minutes, then brushed on some diluted Vallejo inks:

LEFT:  These were done by brushing on diluted BROWN ink ... while that was still wet, I scraped the tip of an x-acto blade sideways down the grain to varying degrees ... then used the blade as a scraper down the length of each board ... again with varying amounts of pressure.  Thus the slight variations in the effect here.

CENTER:  This one was done using diluted SEPIA ink ... scratched with the tip of the knife while wet, then scraped a bit.

RIGHT:  This one was done with BOTH of the approaches described above ... it looks a bit rough here, cuz I caught the woodgrain with the knife a bit funny ...



So I sanded down that funny board a bit ... and it has an interesting effect (which could be further varied with more scratching, scraping and/or sanding) ... need to practice this one a bit, but it looks promising.

Cheers,
Dallas
-- Dallas Mallerich  (Just a freakin' newbie who stumbled into the place)
Email me on the "Contact Us" page at www.BoulderValleyModels.com

lab-dad

That color looks pretty damn good to me!
Thanks for the info!
-Mj