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1/48 Truck Kit Bash

Started by Mobilgas, December 04, 2010, 07:53:00 PM

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Started messing around with a old kit i had buy [The Model Company] 1925 Ford Model TT....Tipper Truck. I cleaned up a few of the casting....and put in a bowl of Blacken-It and let them sit about 5 min.....I like the way the parts color turned out as a base color.  Its hit & miss as far as what your going to get for color.....one fender turned out a nice weathered black and the other fender more light brown?? Might re-dip the one fender again and see what happens?? The tipper bed i dont like so ill probably change it.....to what i dont know yet.

Ken Hamilton

Looks like a fun project, Craig.  You're right - Blacken-It does a nice job on white metal castings.
Keep us posted.............
Ken Hamilton


This thing should be another treat to keep an eye on. -- Russ


Should turn in to a great looking truck Craig! Funny stuff that Blacken-It - sometimes great results and the next time nothing happens at all. ;D ???


Mr Potato Head

Craig, I have been building a lot of white metal kits lately and I use a commercial blackener. To get more consistent results this is what I do: first I use a fiberglass brush to remove any oxidation, and smooth out spotty casting marks, I dip them in the blackener for about thirty minuets, then I remove it with out rinsing, and I really scrub it with an old tooth brush, be careful and use gloves and eye protection, that blackener really stings if you get it in your eyes! Don't ask,  :'( I then return it to the blackener making sure that all the sides are exposed and not touching one another. I leave it until I see that it has turned a consistent color, I rinse and leave it to dry under hot lights. The next day I lightly hit it with the fiberglass eraser and then repeat the process, usually after two applications I get a good base color. Now for the fun part, here's what I do. : I use artist oils and first I load a brush with thinner and paint it on, let it set until the sheen disappears, then I load up a brush with color, Raw Umber ( dark brown) Vandyke Brown ( medium brown) or Payne's Grey ( nice base color) or any other color to compliment the finished look your after. Remember what Henry Ford said! : "You can have any color just as long as it's black" I then paint it on with a good coating of color trying to cover all the details, let it sit, again after it starts to loose it's sheen, I take a cleaned brush with a little thinner in it and go over the whole piece and pick up the heavy paint, it dissolves very easily, so be light handed, practice if you screw it up just slap on a bunch of thinner and all the paint will come off, these oils dry really slow so take you time you have plenty of open time. Let them dry over night or use a blow dryer, if your in a hurry, I never do I just have a bunch of painting subjects always ready to paint and then I put them in a dust free box and let them completely dry.
Now you have a great "Base" with tooth, and you can paint them with acrylics or just continue to build up layers of oil paint for a nice worn finish. You can preserve your work anytime with a coat of dull coat or artist fixative, that's what I use. I have also tried Future polish as a clear coat, its cheep, easy and dries really fast and is really hard after a few days.   I learned a lot about these "filters' from Marc, check out his threads, he's very informative, careful though, he's like a sleeping "Dragon" !  Never poke him, or make fun of him! He's got one heck of a "Bark" and he bites too  :o
Gil Flores
In exile in Boise Idaho


Ian Hodgkiss
The Steamy Pudding - an English Gentleman's Whimsy in 1:24 scale Gn15 (in progress)
On the Slate and Narrow - in 1:12 scale (coming soon)
Brisbane, Australia


Interesting kit Craig... looks like it has some definite possibilities for a kit bash...



I want one with radio control!
Dave Mason
D&GRR (Dunstead & Granford) in On30
"A people that values its privileges above its principles will soon lose both."~Dwight D. Eisenhower

Chuck Doan

Looks like a nice clean build, Craig. I have also had varied results with blackening white metal. Can't think of curtain material just now, maybe lead foil?
"They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details." -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt


Mr Potato Head

Craig the blackener I use is from a company called Sculpt Nouveau, you can find them on the web, and also Ron Young 800-728-5787, they have a complete line of patinas and metal coloring agents. I use their A-15 it's, a 32oz bottle and it's concentrated, you dilute by 50% , but its so strong you can dilute it more or use it concentrated for faster results, it will dissolve soft with metal if you give it a chance! Also in southern California Industrial metal supply stocks it and they also have a website. I think it's $30-35 for a bottle but you end up with more than half a gallon worth of blackener, what's those little bottles going for at the hobby store? Plus it's more concentrated! Check it out, you know the Costco motto! If you're going? GO BULK!
restocking when I get back to the Motherland  ;D boy I miss Trader Joe's  :'(
Gil Flores
In exile in Boise Idaho


Looks good so far. I would consider making the drapes out of Milliput. Just roll it out real thin, pleat/fold/shape as required, let dry, and epoxy in place.

look forward to your progress.

I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....



This thing is looking pretty decent considering the relatively early stage of construction. Please do whatever you consider necessary to complete the passenger side to high standards. When the thing is complete only its appearance will count. -- Russ


Milliput is a two compound epoxy type sculpting putty that many armor modelers use for tarps. rags,  and other soft details. Scale figure sculptors use it to sculpt faces, hands, clothing, fine details, etc. It comes in different coarseness/grain. I use the fine white.

I personally would not advise using any type of "cloth" or "paper" to represent the seat cushion/cover...IMO they are all too coarse  and crude....at 1/48 scale even the pattern of coarse burlap would not really be distiguishable....Again, I would sculp the piece out of Milliput and then paint it accordingly.

Below is the only pic I had on hand of one of my Milliput uses. The tarp on back is made from a sheet of it rolled up, and then some stitching embossed along the edges.  This is 1/35 scale...and I made the tarp a bit thicker, because it was to be an insulating winter camo cover/tarp.... .....it can be rolled out thinner.

[EDIT:]  I found another pic, scale is also 1/35...the small rags and roll of paper/plastic are made of Milliput (the rag in the center looks odd because it it is shaped to hang over a vertical board edge..and in the pic is laying in it's side)

I am an unreliable witness to my own existence.

In the corners of my mind there is a circus....



Quote from: marc_reusser on December 08, 2010, 04:25:50 AM
Milliput is a two compound epoxy type sculpting putty that many armor modelers use for tarps. rags,  and other soft details.

You might also try Aves Apoxie Sculpt. It's similar to Milliput but seems softer and easier to work with.


Malachi Constant

Having fun just following along here ... shaping up nicely!

-- Dallas Mallerich  (Just a freakin' newbie who stumbled into the place)
Email me on the "Contact Us" page at www.BoulderValleyModels.com