Hello guys !
I make a little diorama at the HO scale always inspiring of the french architecture.
Here is a sketch...
The real construction...
And the model in making
I look forward to watching this develop. -- Russ
Thank you guys !
Very promising scene.
the variety of materials definitely portrays the adaptive uses over time. following along.
Very cool project, and a great start!
Thank guys !
Sorry, I don't master enought english so my answers are shorts.
I continued my work.
short words are fine as the pictures are long!
what materials are being used?
Sami. I did not see your diorama until today. It is looking good!
It looks like you spent a lot of time applying washes and weathering with a tiny paintbrush. -- Russ
For this bricks I maked a mold six years ago and today I use again this mold with of plaster.
But I build models with other materials : plasticard Evergreen, brass, foambord, photo paper (for the store band).
For the painting I use frequently acrylics (Vallejo) and oil colors. I work with aerograph, paintbrushs, sponge, etc.
For the wood I used the technic of Emmanuel Nouaillier, a great french modeler. I employ some plasticard whitch I paint with some humbrol for the primer. And I finished with some acrylics and oil filters.
thank you. the results are excellent.
Thank you Ray !
At the moment I work on a power transformer. It's a french kit consisting some brass photolithography and laser cut.
Thank Lawton !
I post another photo.
I can almost hear the transformer 'hummmmm'
I would be interested in how you designed the Ätzplatinen with colors, because I like the result very well.
What a great combination: Etched brass to show the brick sides and ends properly at the corners along with excellent artwork. I bet that took a lot of time to paint. -- Russ
Excellent work! I'm curious how you did the mortar between the bricks. It's very clean.
Ray and Russ, it's not difficult !
I painted the bricks with a white colors Vallejo. I used my airbrush for this work. After I painted the bricks with a brush pencil in the sense of diagonal to not fill the joints.
To finish I painted some bricks with the differents colors.
After the weathering is classical (washes or filters).
Thanks Sami. In large scale such brushing requires a light touch to avoid filling in the mortar lines, so I appreciate the skill it takes to do it in a smaller scale.
Terrific looking bricks, Sami. Thanks for the How-to-do-it. Your photos show it very well.
Thank 's Bill !
Here my first video on the concrete weathering...
Thanks! That shows how much work it takes to create the effect you want and it is not simply splashing a couple washes on and calling it "good"
Thank you very much for showing the process, I feel very much the same, except that the first clorication of the stones is done with a roller of linocut. For this I give irregularly different tints of the stone paint application on a glass plate.
Hi guys !
I finished the power transformer.
I repeat, SPECTACULAR!
Can we now make jokes about a brick outhouse?
Quote from: Sami on October 07, 2018, 12:27:56 AM
Hi guys !
I finished the power transformer.
The brickwork look fantastic!
But I have some doubts about the roof. I have never seen concrete that has a yellow component. If the yellow was more green, I would interpret is as mould, something I have seen on several old horisontal concrete surfaces. A more reddish-brown could suggest rust seeping out from the rebar, something that is also not unusual on early concrete structures.
But this might of course be a case where there are local variations, and I just have not seen the right prototype reference photos.
When we see models without prototype references, we sort of make an mental protoype based on what we formerly have seen in real life, other prototype pictures and even other models.
This can of course mislead us totally. So I am not claiming that the yellow is not correct, but it does not feel entirely right to me.
Thank Hauk for your revelante comment !
I wanted reproduce the effect some the first photo some the link below.
It's easy to find the real colors and the photo of my model is misleading. The green is less yellow than it appears to it.
I often have difficulty restoring the trues colors of my models in photo.
Yeah, I was going to say that the roof looks more green than yellow to me. I am having a similar problem with one of my projects, where what I wanted was a darker shade of yellow but it actually looks more green under the light in my shop. It does look much better outdoors, however, which is where it will eventually end up. I guess I should be taking a closer look at my interior lighting.
I see an algae or mold covering on the slab. The yellow tint it could be argued is the result of a dry spell which has caused the vegetation to go dormant. I have no real problem with the interpretation of the subject.
We all must remember that the recipe for most concrete is: 1-2-3. 1 part portland cement, 2 parts sand, and 3 parts stone. The color of new concrete is a greenish grey because of the surface layer of cement and as it begins to age and weather this erodes leaving the sand and stone visible. This interacts with the forces of nature and with time pollution and other things add to the complexity of the surface. Depending on the source of the sand and stone the color of older concrete can vary widely. The majority of the concrete used in my local area comes from a series of quarries about 100 miles away and is a strong blue grey in color. This contrasts with the sand which comes from deposits along the James River and is an orange color very close to garnet. Older concrete stone in the area came from borrow pits along the James that lent an orange tone to the concrete as it aged. When I was in college in Kansas most of the stone used locally came from the "chat" which was waste rock from local nickel and zinc mines and was a cream color giving the concrete there the appearance of vanilla ice cream.
The color of the fillers in concrete are most visible in concrete roads as the vehicle tires cause the surface to wear much faster. Have someone else drive while you study the color of the road surface.
Since what we are doing is modeling nature, observe the concrete from a distance and not close up. color variations meld together, and the surface appears to be much smoother then it really is. Form work for older concrete was made from individual boards, many times rough cut, which gives one a surface texture which becomes highlighted with age; while newer concrete is poured into either molds of plywood or metal. Additionally designers will specify that patterns be cast into the surface to decorate the face of the slab. Has anyone seen a post WWII wall slab which models the holes left behind when the ties which bind the 2 sides of the form together during the pour are snapped off? How might one model that feature?
great walls and detail.