• Welcome to Westlake Publishing Forums.
 

News:

    REGARDING MEMBERSHIP ON THIS FORUM: Due to spam, our server has disabled the forum software to gain membership. The only way to become a new member is for you to send me a private e-mail with your preferred screen name (we prefer you use your real name, or some variant there-of), and email adress you would like to have associated with the account.  -- Send the information to:  Russ at finescalerr@msn.com

Main Menu

1/2"-scale Lumber Buggy

Started by Ken Hamilton, May 29, 2009, 07:47:10 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

james_coldicott

Hi Ken,

really enjoying watching your progress.

Hopefully these are of some use? A much more modern buggy but still operating (just) and with some interesting weathering patterns.

James

james_coldicott

...and one more. Taken at Sturgeons Mill last year. Sorry the angles aren't better- I was rushing past to see the Mill in operation and really should have taken more time... :-\

Ken Hamilton

Thanks, James. 
You can never have too much information about these critters.
I'd love to see one in person sometime.
Ken Hamilton
www.wildharemodels.com
http://public.fotki.com/khamilton/models/

Belg

Ken, I was looking at your creation the other day and trying to figure out how it would steer. Low and behold here is the answer, forgive my lack of mechanical knowledge but how does the the steering wheel move the linkage? Is there a rack and pinion enclosed under the base of it? Your workmanship is just a joy to watch, creative and educational. I have learned quite a few new tricks and ideas just watching this project come together. Thanks Pat

Ken Hamilton

#49
Hi, Pat:
The term "working steering" is somewhat misleading.  The actual term should be "poseable steering",
since the non-functional steering box isn't hooked up to anything.  The two front wheel units pivot in
unison since they're connected by the "tie rod".  The steering box shaft, which rotates freely,is connected
to the short "drag link", which is connected to the front wheels by the steering rod. So, basically, when you
grab the front wheels and turn them, all the levers and arms move but not the steering wheel.  Hope that makes sense.

Next up is building the clutch linkage.  Since it's all right out in the open, it has to be accurate.
First, I drilled out the bell house and bent a brasschannel for the throw-out arm:



The linkage hanging on the steering box unit was a liitle tricky.  That little wishbone-looking
bracket is where that end of the clutch likage mounts to the engine block


Here's what the unit looks like during a test-fit:



With the engine in place, you can hardly see that mounting bracket, but you can see where
the rod between the clutch lever and the throw-out arm will go.  That'll be added once everything
is permanently attached.



Next:  Brakes
________________________________________________________________________________

EDIT:  Sunday 12:15AM

Well, the brakes didn't get done tonight because I was anxious to see what the frame for the top would look like.
It's .010"x .042" soldered brass flat stock with Tichy NBWs.  It's just taped in place on the seat.



The clutch pedal is visible in this shot, too.  The seat had to be moved back a little for more driver footroom.











Ken Hamilton
www.wildharemodels.com
http://public.fotki.com/khamilton/models/

Ray Dunakin

Beautiful! I love all the detail in this model. I never heard of the Tichy brand before.

Where do you get flat brass stock in that size? Or did you cut it to size yourself?


Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World

TRAINS1941

Ken

Wow!!  That is so awesome beautiful work.

Jerry
Why isn't there mouse-flavored cat food?
George Carlin

Belg

"The term "working steering" is somewhat misleading.  The actual term should be "poseable steering",
since the non-functional steering box isn't hooked up to anything.  The two front wheel units pivot in
unison since they're connected by the "tie rod".  The steering box shaft, which rotates freely,is connected
to the short "drag link", which is connected to the front wheels by the steering rod. So, basically, when you
grab the front wheels and turn them, all the levers and arms move but not the steering wheel."

Ken, I'm sorry I was not more clear I was trying to ask how would the real thing work. I understood your great representation of the real thing. The latest additions are just great, when I do similar (and that is a term I use very loosely) I never seem to be able to find good enough pictures to be able to see such fine details. Do you find yourself creating some things from just pure engineering principles? Thanks Pat

MikeC

I've said it before, Ken, but this is simply amazing. Outstanding modeling!


Ken Hamilton

Quote from: Belg on July 12, 2009, 05:45:01 AM
I was trying to ask how would the real thing work.
Sorry, Pat. I thought you meant the model.  From what I could see from photos, the real thing worked
pretty much like the model, with simple steeriing box connected to the front wheels in  a way that seems
very similar to autos of the period.  No power steering, either...these must have been terrible to turn!

Quote from: Belg on July 12, 2009, 05:45:01 AM
Do you find yourself creating some things from just pure engineering principles?
ALWAYS!  Especially when I have no idea how the real thing might have worked.  That's why I like to build
freelanced models.  I can build them the way I would if I were a shop foreman trying to create a piece of
special equipment in-house..

Quote from: Ray Dunakin on July 11, 2009, 10:40:14 PM
Where do you get flat brass stock in that size? Or did you cut it to size yourself?
Thanks, Ray.  The strip stock is some "Deteail Associates" stuff I've for a while.  I just found out
that K&S makes a bunch of different strip stock sizes, too.

Mike & Jerry:  Thanks for the kind words..........
Ken Hamilton
www.wildharemodels.com
http://public.fotki.com/khamilton/models/

Belg

Thanks Ken that was some great info, Pat

Frederic Testard

Thanks for another beautiful installment, Ken. It is a pure pleasure to look above your shoulders while you're building this buggy.
Frederic Testard

Ken Hamilton

As always, gentlemen, I appreciate the comments as this project rolls along.

The weekends allow for some late-night building sessions that can't happen during
the week. Here's one last update before getting back into the real world tomorrow:

After building the frame for the top, I had to decide what the cover would be made out of.
I usually use dried alcohol-impregnated eyeglass Lens Wipes, but wanted to try something
different that would be more sturdy.  Long story short, I had some wine bottle foil scraps,
which are a little thinner than Verlinden lead foil, so I gave that a try...



I glued a piece across the top braces, then bent, trimmed, glued and trimmed again until
it was all in the right place.  The back piece (with a window cut out) was glued on next....



It, too, was glued, cut and trimmed to shape, but it turned out to be a little too short for
the back of the seat, so I had to glue another piece to the bottom.  The extra piece will
be easy to justify in the story line....



The wine bottle foil has a nice "weight" to it.  Not to thin; not to heavy.  When everything
gets painted and is ready for final assembly, I can just shape the back flap to fit against the
back of the seat.  Looking at the pictures now, I think I'll laminate some tissue paper to
the top for a touch of texture..........



That's it for now!  Time the end the weekend.......
Ken Hamilton
www.wildharemodels.com
http://public.fotki.com/khamilton/models/

Frederic Testard

It is absolutely cute, Ken. And someone who collects wine bottle foils cannot be a bad man. :)
Frederic Testard

HOn3_rr

Love your approach to the sun shade and I think your idea about the tissue paper will really make it look like a canvas top.  Looking forward to seeing how this turns out.
--KP--
Life is too short to build all the models I want to.