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1940 Ford Coupe

Started by JohnTolcher, October 06, 2014, 04:23:04 PM

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JohnTolcher

Hi folks
You might remember my last couple of projects, a Mini and a Chevy truck, which were mostly plastic kits painted to appear aged and rusty. This project is a further progression of those techniques used before, plus I tried to take on board the comments I received here and elsewhere.

I used a Revell/Monogram kit in 1:25 scale, starting with dents using a technique I saw Per Olav Lund use. Most of the model was covered with a wet paper towel except for a hole. I held the model over a candle flame for a few seconds then pushed in the dent with a round object. In hindsight I think the dents were too round and hollowed out, I believe I should have made a slightly 'v' shaped tool to make the impressions.

More to follow...
Cheers
John in Australia

JohnTolcher

The kits grill was a solid chunk of plastic so I made a new one, by passing fine copper wire through drilled holes.

I cut out a door and the boot lid. Flat tyres were made by Gordon Ferguson. They ususally come as soft rubber-like vinyl, but he re-cast them in resin and reworked them into the deflated shape.
Cheers
John in Australia

JohnTolcher

I tried this black primer for the first time. It's very quick and easy to use from the aerosol, though it's best to use down the paddock as there's a strong smell and lots of overspray.
Cheers
John in Australia

JohnTolcher

Most paints used were Tamiya (lacquers) thinned with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner or Gunze Mr Color Thinner. I layed down a base of Hull Red.
Cheers
John in Australia

JohnTolcher

Then I used the Hairspray technique to build different lighter shades of rust, mixed by eye and mostly chipped away between each coat.

The final rust colour was followed by a seal coat of Testors Dullcote, a neccessary barrier before using the windex technique.
Cheers
John in Australia

JohnTolcher

Next I used a combination of the hairspray and windex techniques, to produce the deteriorated body paint. The hairspray technique is good for producing sharp chips and wear, the windex technique produces softer wear. So first a light coat of hairspray was sprayed on upper surfaces only where most body paint would have gone.

On the sides a rusty brown was airbrushed on.
Cheers
John in Australia

JohnTolcher

Next blue was airbrushed on the sides, over the brown as soon as it was dry.
Cheers
John in Australia

JohnTolcher

Finally grey was airbrushed on. These colours were chosen to match a reference image from the net, an Image that particularly appeals to me.
Cheers
John in Australia

JohnTolcher

Next I mixed windex, (an ammonia based glass and household cleaner) with water 50/50. Then I used a small stiff paint brush damp with the liquid to remove some of the paint.
Cheers
John in Australia

JohnTolcher

Further to this, some chipped white paint was added, again based on a reference image. The hairspray technique was used for this, and for the running boards and wheel rims. Mig Jimenez's new company AMMO make some enamel washes which were used too. Light Rust wash can be seen in streaks and various stains, plus another called Rust Streaking effect.

Chrome seems to hold up better than body paint, so most is still intact here. So that's about it....
Cheers
John in Australia

JohnTolcher

Another image.
Cheers
John in Australia

JohnTolcher

Another image.
Cheers
John in Australia

JohnTolcher

Another image.
Cheers
John in Australia

Mobilgas

John,   Nice work.. ;D  I seen your build on the Doctor Cranky Show...before you posted it here. ;)
Craig

Ray Dunakin

Great job! Really looks terrific!

What did you use for the glass in the windows? How about the chrome?

Visit my website to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!

Ray Dunakin's World