Yes, I am working on a further project, a standard track locomotive in 1:22.5 scale.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20190811_224703.jpg&hash=d3a03da52a469afbe224700abed1843aaf802ec7)
The locomotive housing is printed in one piece in 3 D in China.
Of course, there are many accessories missing, from which I make everything that is not available.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20190815_164223.jpg&hash=e9f29c07c5c9614c4ca67c552c0ef63752112ab3)
Like this fan grille, for example.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20190905_232457.jpg&hash=32de4c7dcd480b32a04e5a86462883ac568863e8)
Lamp rings.
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Front window frame with panes.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20200305_232318.jpg&hash=aa2bba14e874fc47d4bb4d06c3c4b7317a967ccf)
Side window frames with inner frames and panes.
A great project there Helmut.
Wow! I don't think I've seen such a large printed piece before.
I just knew you made the metal parts because they are so elegant. -- Russ
This seems to be an interesting project. I look forward to the continuation.
Bernhard
A good start Helmut. Where will this locomotive go once completed?
Thats´ one hell of a 3D-print!
Quote from: Bill Gill on April 01, 2020, 05:46:49 AM
A good start Helmut. Where will this locomotive go once completed?
Bill, I have a Spur II modular system, which is equipped with 3 rail tracks for 45 and 64 mm track gauge.
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(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F6281%2F13mobrue03.jpg&hash=2735570f429e225e252bb62049366be5e0d63b6b)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F6281%2F13HSBMod03.jpg&hash=58b5ee441887ab091677466d3557b29b65cae981)
Hier möchte ich die Fertigung der Lampenringe aus Aluminium zeigen.
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Used for sample and glazed.
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These lamp rings still need to be processed all after until they look like the pattern.
1. Remove adhesive residues and chips from milling.
2. Remove the ridge inside.
3. Remove the ridge from the outside.
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Production of milled lamp rings from left to right.
So far, my milling machine has run for 10 minutes per lamp ring.
Unfortunately, aluminium milling only takes small steps and only with a lower feed.
After that, glue residues and chips must first be removed from the milling.
After that, deburring is made inside and the rest is removed outside.
Finally, the lamp ring is picked up again in the lathe and sanded and rounded on the outside.
While the set CNC machine is fortunately running without my presence, I have to change drills, sinkers and cutters and start the work steps. Finally, the manual rework then makes 2.5 minutes per lamp ring.
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And this lamp ring is my favorite lamp ring, because this lamp ring is the last because now all lamp rings are ready.
We continue with the glass inserts and the reflector.
Tedious and exacting work with outstanding results. -- Russ
Why do you need so many of those lamp rings?
Russ, yes, hard work with precision.
Ray, the construction of this model locomotive is a group action and I have agreed in the group to manufacture the parts for all 20 models.
I haven't reported here for a long time, the reason for this was my decision not to complete the kit. We are here in a forum for finescalerr and a lot of the plastic model is too rough for me.
I still have the brass model shown here, which unfortunately does not meet these requirements either.
So I'm going to build a brass model with an improved plastic structure.
The entire plastic chassis is completely eliminated. However, individual parts can be used from the brass chassis after repair.
So I will take up the report again here, especially as the model is a vehicle that I particularly like. I hope to be able to show that it is possible to improve things considerably.
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Up in the frame my pattern milled under great difficulty from Vivak.
Below the tried lasered series production unfortunately with raised melting bead and therefore unfortunately not as desired.
Now I have precision acrylic glass, because it's better to mill like Vivak and try again.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20200622_142346.jpg&hash=e3e5a747783f952b7d9fbd406931c027dde3883b)
With the lamps, this looks better, except that the clear discs cut with laser also have the bead at the edge. But the printed reflector works for this. This reflector fits a 6 volt micro bulb with connecting wires. The whole thing also fits into the opening in the V100 drilled with the step drill.
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Luckily, the red lamp glasses can be used and that's what it looks like.
After the windows and lamps I dealt with the fan and the fan grille.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.design-hsb.de%2FLuefterTest11.jpg&hash=161de286cdf03f7e8bf05211ddfa87401e2c528c)
The individual parts for the fan grille are separated from the etching plate.
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The slats are rotated and erected around 90.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.design-hsb.de%2FLuefterTest13.jpg&hash=12ec6d5b6cfce2e6d00524f3de6aa49449df765b)
The 0.5 mm wires are indented and the combs of the teaching are inserted. For soldering everything is held together with brackets with the soldering I can start so in the middle.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.design-hsb.de%2FLuefterTest14.jpg&hash=c3af676992d00fc61932977c881931f38936eb57)
109 soldering points later, the grid is soldered.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.design-hsb.de%2FLuefterTest15.jpg&hash=ec7c39fb9509ec7279a3cc22d9da1af6b8716844)
All the bars and the frame are separated, everything is cleaned.
Then I started to make my V 100 ready to drive, because then I can test and implement many things like light and fan much more easily.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20200827_233357.jpg&hash=9ce6d354968e271107f91010cd97fe573a9ba986)
To protect against contamination and in the hope that this reduces the noise of the bevel gears, I want to encapsulate the gearbox. The first parts are already ready. The gearbox housing is based on the axle via ball bearings, which also needs to be rebuilt for this purpose.
The construction of my V 100 is progressing.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20201011_010357.jpg&hash=21f6b3b48e991a9dee4d059e08ab079560e3cf06)
The gearbox housings are now ready. Each housing consists of 20 milling parts. 2 x M3, 8 x M2 and 16 x M1 screws the threads are all cut by hand, which has taken the longest time. I also paired pairs of plates with 14 x 1mm rivets.
In order to be able to rotate the new axes, I first need the axle bearings in the bogus brackets that should contain ball bearings.
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I have a scrap V100. I only need to disassemble the old axle swings, which fortunately is easy thanks to cold soldering points. Then the hole for the ball bearing comes in and everything is cleaned, directed and properly soldered together. Axle swing number 1 of 8 is ready and works, now the remaining 7 pieces can follow.
we continued with the springs for the axle swings.
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These are 2 out of 8 axle springs of a brass handmade V100 that I had once bought. You can tolerate some attention.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20201015_215748.jpg&hash=52dc80531746c0a7ac1dc5d354a575090f35b181)
These feathers, like everyone else, can tolerate some affection.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20201015_220005.jpg&hash=5bec975f3b837ab505a92e6c2c821a1d7d502b4d)
With a round pliers, the spring is machined to the extent that an M5 screw fits in.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20201015_220232.jpg&hash=06665beacabd3a084450cde08f73b7d7f29acc9c)
Then the springs are pressed together with an M5 screw.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2F20201015_222205.jpg&hash=8285f26dd8ad336768efdc416b3ff66faabcd2a9)
Now the right spring already has a cylinder shape.
Bogie08 (Helmut Schmidt)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20201015_221943.jpg&hash=433d572bc988cc64fd2b9d2d88177b125e37781d)
After that, the ends could be plange-cut on both sides.
Bogie10 (Helmut Schmidt)
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20201015_223236.jpg&hash=c3cd0cf3cab080b26f26f3b9b7d2ca8b4b67c131)
Control with the measuring slider and the 14mm height are achieved.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20201015_223608.jpg&hash=b3b2aa6fab89df169cff58f279069dbf25e82c4f)
No comparison to before, isn't it?
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8 pieces of finished working springs made of 2mm MS58 round material.
Hello Karsten,
We continued with the bogie.
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To the left of the model-friendly bolts and right still the hexagonal screw.
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The bolt was soldered into the octagonal head with a silver solder. The head has a 1.5 mm deep milling with 3mm diameter for easier positioning. Thread M3 was previously cut on the lone 3 mm bolts. In the middle for comparison the M3 screw.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20201017_212720.jpg&hash=74c6c81150ab69c4c0750f731dd42c756cf9650a)
So I held the bolts during soldering.
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The bolts, of course, require the appropriate fuse. The locking plate fastened with M0.6 screws can be seen on the right bolt. The mounting holes can be seen on the left bolt.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20201020_000634.jpg&hash=818b0981680735b3b44ef95d679ee6d040771383)
I bent the fuse plates in 2 steps in the homemade bending gauge. The fuse plate itself is milled out of 0.3 mm MS 63, because it can be edged off very well.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20201020_000530.jpg&hash=cca04f77f12fb22a2baf8c198b0a56ecd49de0ff)
In order to precisely bend the fuse plates in 2 steps, I designed and built this bending gauge.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20201020_000603.jpg&hash=ec06a87ed4e2f2fc2716465d002dafa55808f62a)
Both bends can be made one after the other, in a voltage.
It continued with the construction of my V100.
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After I have reworked the springs for the axle suspension, I have noticed that the spring abutment also does not correspond to my ideas. So I tried my 2D CAD software and redrawn the part and sent the data to my milling machine. That came out of it.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20201101_215338.jpg&hash=c4dc5caaa1e54f8068a361a7d47e5c66447eeca3)
The abutments were created from a 12 x 12 mm MS58. Now they have to be separated out, which I just did on my circular saw.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20201101_221232.jpg&hash=18781e721fd277769ef7943cd3a1fc0c2e32a30f)
Here on the left you can still see the old abutment on the left. The cone on which the spring actually sits is missing. On the right I used the new abutment with pins for the spring. When soldering the old abutment much unfortunately the end off, because it was insufficiently fixed. I realized that I also design this part best and create 8 new parts.
It continued with the bogs.
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I already mentioned that unfortunately one had fallen off while handling the bogie. The fallen part can be seen in the middle of the picture. To the right is the outer suspension of the brake rod that had fallen off along with the part. On the far left the new parts, which Fortunately I was able to produce now according to original documents.
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In order to be able to mount and align the part better, I have cut into the bogie frame M2 thread and can now screw. The suspension for the brake rod can then be easily positioned on the rear base and connected to solder.
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I also attached the abutment for the spring to the frame with an M2 screw. Now the axle bearing even springs a little. So Now I want to rework all 8 axle bearings. The expert will find that there are still no reinforcements and the final stop for the suspension.
It continues with the refurbishment and improvement of the V 100 bogion frames.
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Comparison of reworked and supplemented support arm to the original.
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Support arm with lateral guide. The axle bearing cover is screwed with 8 pieces M0.6 X 3 model construction screws with SW 1mm.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20201115_174440.jpg&hash=fbc2943a3da4feb66479bc898e6083629d2af0be)
Now the support arm has a lateral guide like the original.
Now that the support arms are guided as with the model, I can produce axles made of stainless steel. After installing the axles in the axle gearbox, I could see that this is pleasingly quiet, but hears (http://www.youtube.com/shorts/HCHKx4Rs5UY) itself.
It continues with the refurbishment and improvement of the V 100 bogion frames.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20201115_010100.jpg&hash=acd202f0a86c104be9b2c88be5b1d32dfc89aa99)
Comparison of reworked and supplemented support arm to the original.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20201115_160116.jpg&hash=98b3e175c09c0782e2f9ec58a6128c92b1976279)
Support arm with lateral guide. The axle bearing cover is screwed with 8 pieces M0.6 X 3 model construction screws with SW 1mm.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20201115_174440.jpg&hash=fbc2943a3da4feb66479bc898e6083629d2af0be)
Now the support arm has a lateral guide like the original.
Now that the support arms are guided as with the model, I can produce axles made of stainless steel. After installing the axles in the axle gearbox, I could see that this is pleasingly quiet, but hears (http://www.youtube.com/shorts/HCHKx4Rs5UY) itself.
In the new year, my V100 will continue.
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The axle gearboxes are fully assembled and the gearboxes are blackened.
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The stainless steel wheel discs were blasted in a stencil from both sides.
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All wheel discs were also primed in the stencil from both sides.
The bogs are making good progress.
(https://www.finescalerr.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fspannwerk.buntbahn.de%2Ffotos%2Fdata%2F727%2Fmedium%2F20210119_210421.jpg&hash=917d5ec053780aa3cf3147fd84c72f4a94aef216)
Here is a view of the finished wheel disc.
The pressing was done without any problems in the lathe.
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In the meantime, two drives could be installed in a bogie. This allows me to design and adapt everything else.
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View from above are the Munz ball contacts, for the current consumption recognizable.
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From below, the position of the drives can be clearly seen. Now only wiring is missing and another bracket for support on the engine then there can be the first test drive.
Just incredible! -- Russ
I had to read your new post several times so that the amazing range of your work could all soak into my thick skull.
"Excellent" falls short of describing the high quality of your work!
Spectacular work Helmut! And a very interesting prototype.
Spectacular project!
Could you tell us who did the 3D-print, and what did it cost?
(Edit: just read that you have rejected the 3D-print, but would be interesting to know who did it, anyways)
Amazing - What sort of length is this beast ?
Barney
Quote from: Hauk on January 22, 2021, 12:48:59 AM
Spectacular project!
Could you tell us who did the 3D-print, and what did it cost?
(Edit: just read that you have rejected the 3D-print, but would be interesting to know who did it, anyways)
Haug, unfortunately I can't say who exactly made the pressure. I took part in an action in Germany where the components were ordered together. The printed parts came from China in excellent print quality. Unfortunately, with personally in the construction of the printed parts are too many deviations from the original. The model was originally designed for a 5 inch garden runway and was only scaled down. For example, the distance between the buffers is too small because the total bottom frame is about 6 mm too narrow. In addition, the longitudinal beams of the frame are completely missing. The bogs are actually only apertures and also very simplified. The drive gears are not encapsulated and therefore they are very much to be heard.
From frames and bogsets I will use only the following parts from the purchased kit:
8 pieces stainless steel wheel discs
4 geared motors
4 pairs of bevel gear pairs
8 pieces ball bearings
I once tried to calculate the pure cost share of the printed parts and came to about 850 €, whereby the cost for the pure locomotive housing is about 570 €.
Costs for the 3D printing are always calculated according to the required construction space.
Quote from: Barney on January 22, 2021, 03:23:24 AM
Amazing - What sort of length is this beast ?
Barney
Barny, the original has a length over the buffers of 12100 mm, since I build in scale 1:22.5, my model should get 538 mm length over the buffers.
For example, my metal model will certainly have a much higher weight like the plastic model, for example, the unfinished bogie already weighs about 1200 gr.
That is some beautiful work!
Jerry
It's like seeing a Swiss watch being made!
This is excellent work of precision mechanics! Congratulations.
Bernhard
Helmut.
It is always a pleasure to see your work.
cheers Kim
It continues at the bogie.
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Here are the parts for the suspension from the brake rod.
On the left, the new now screw-on guide for the axle swingarm.
In the middle the spacer tube, which I took over from the original bogie.
On the right outside, the new holding plate with 4 holes for easier positioning of the suspension.
Among them is the suspension, which has been edited by 3 pages. Because in the end side there are still 2 0.5 mm holes for pins for easier positioning.
In addition, a 3.2 mm section of a 3 mm pipe.
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The first two suspensions are now mounted here.
Thanks to the bore in the retaining plate, it could be easily screwed on and nothing had to be soldered with a large flame.
The bore is closed with a plug before painting.
Among them are 2 of the original brackets.
Your work is very precisely executed and the results are excellent.
Your soldering skills leave me reeling in stunned disbelief. -- Russ
I agree with all - plus you metal smiths of the modelling world have certainly set the standards I only have to look at a soldering iron and I get burnt fingers
Barney
Thank you and love that you like my work. But I also read a question about my soldering technique and try to explain it here.
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This is what the suspensions look like after soldering.
In order for the parts to be soldered cleanly, I tin the contact surfaces beforehand.
Then the tin runs with flame or piston after heating, also exactly where I want it to be.
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So that it can continue, it now also goes to the second bogie.
With the flame, I have removed everything I want to renew.
I would like to continue using the pipe frames and the four short pipe pieces.
Anything else does not correspond to my personal ideas.
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I want to replace all this on my bogs.
In addition, other parts are missing, especially the brake rod.
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Unfortunately, I had to notice with the naked eye that the pipe frame was soldered twisted together.
With the locomotive I had also acquired the soldering gauges for the pipe frame.
Luckily, the frame was easily dismembered and I refocused all the parts, newly in the teaching.
I cleaned the soldering points and thinly tinned them. Then everything heated with a larger flame and I needed to add very little tin.
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The soldered frame after soldering, the cleaning flew with me immediately after soldering with a spray water bottle.
As a result, the still warm flux residues are simply washed away.
On the first frame, the outer tubes were made of solid material, which made it easier for me to install the new parts by screwing.
In order to be able to build the second bogie comparable to the first one, I now have to create corresponding filling pieces for the pipe ends.
An excellent tutorial. Thank you. -- Russ
P.S.: I'd better stick to plastic!
Very neat work, Helmut. Thanks for sharing.
Bernhard
Excellent work. Also, the tubular construction of the bogie is quite interesting -- very different from the bogies commonly seen here in the USA.
Using a surfer's term of praise: Totally TUBULAR!
Lawton, go stand in the corner. -- Russ
Russ:
You have no appreciation for the English language!
Quote from: Lawton Maner on February 06, 2021, 08:49:54 AM
Russ:
You have no appreciation for the English language!
Obviously , he's a Merkin !
(Ya can't send me to the corner, 'cos I'm already there )
My core competence is more modelling, and unfortunately not the English language, corners or whatever.
Morning Helmut.
Your English is just fine I never have a problem understanding you.
Your project is looking great.
Cheers Kim
We continue with the construction of the speedometer generator.
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The first parts for the speedometer generator are ready and are later attached to the 2 axis on the left side of the locomotive.
In the meantime, the missing parts have been completed and the speedometer has been created from them.
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Wing arm swing with speedometer of the 2 axle front left, my V 100 BR 212 in scale 1:22.5. The speedometer is composed of 11 milling parts with 8 pieces M0,6 and 4 pieces M1 with a washer.
Nice!
I'm building on a BR 212 and I've already reported on it.
An example would be the speedometer generator.
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Wing arm swing with speedometer of the 2 axle front left, my V 100 BR 212 in scale 1:22.5. The speedometer is composed of 11 milling parts with 8 pieces M0,6 and 4 pieces M1 with a washer.
I have already made several attempts to get into 3D drawing technology. Through a tip I learned about the free software DesignSpark. With the help of German instructions on YouTube I started to learn the software and here follows the first result.
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The speedometer generator drawn in 3D with DesignSpark.
The result is an STL file that should be the template for a brass casting.
Good start, Helmut. I did it the same way some time ago. However, I work with Onshape. The program is also free and offers the possibility to directly generate 2D drawing for manufacturing.
Bernhard
Bernhard,
thank you very much for the information. As a 2D software I use EuroCAD Professional, which is a chargeable, but I also use my portal milling machine a Mimaki ME 500. This connection to 2D editing is very important to me, unfortunately in DesignSpark not yet satisfactory for me. Sorry, I can't import existing data. I want to test the new version of FreeCAD now. Onshape I would like to use that it is openly accessible webbased.
Hi Helmut.
Wonderful detail and a very convincing finish.
all the best
Kim.
I'm busy constructing and from time to time I have to check if that's really possible.
That's why I started with the diamond gratings for the steps.
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Film drawn on the computer for diamond grid steps. Format 200 x 300 mm.
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The finished etching sheet made of 0.15 mm nickel silver sheet with a format of 200 X 300 mm.
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The etched parts held in a frame for a diamond grid.
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The stripes are turned down in the left grid frame and up in the right grid frame to be able to plug them together.
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Thus, half of the strips are put together, since the 1.2 mm height of the strips, because of the small distance, had to be distributed over a total of 4 frames.
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Prepared is the next frame, again with each 2 strips to fill the gaps.
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After putting it together, the last frame is ready.
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Now the grid is put together and the frames are fixed on the outside with solder, so that the part can be further processed.
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Before separating from the frame, all nodes were soldered by the grid at the cross points. This was done with a lot of flux, a large soldering iron with a wide tip and very little solder.
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View of the finished grid with a coin for size comparison.
Wow! That is a lot of excellent designing, clean etching and impeccable fabrication!!
It looks grate (that's a pun), and great!
Holy cow!
Outstanding, especially the final soldering job! -- Russ
Hello, thanks for the recognition, then I want to continue.
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Soldering and biegelehre cab steps.
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Soldering and bending honor for the shunting steps.
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Sufficient grid for hopefully many nice kicks.
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The first shunting step is ready.
I've never seen a modeler design and then build anything like that. Most satisfactory. -- Russ
Quote from: Design-HSB on June 07, 2021, 06:36:21 AM
Hello, thanks for the recognition, then I want to continue.
Wow, that's cool.
Hello, thanks for the appreciation. Series production has begun.
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Between 2 GRP stencils I saw out the grids with a back-sloping fret saw with a very fine metal saw blade. Around the stencil I also bend the edge for the edging.
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Used in the solder gauge made of 1mm GRP, I can solder the 1.2 mm high grilles excellently.
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I can't afford employees and I sometimes wonder how many model builders there are who could imitate that.
Thus, the series production could be successfully completed by myself. 2 left and 2 right kicks are needed. Since they are the same from above and below, all 4 could be soldered in a stencil.
I don't know about the rest of you guys but, to me, the design and fabrication seem absolutely incredible. -- Russ
QuoteI sometimes wonder how many model builders there are who could imitate that.
Helmut, Maybe only you can do it ;-)
Hi Frithjof,
I can't imagine that, only the few requests for parts all related to ready-to-grow parts.
Today I can imagine the ascent to the driver's cab. The material was also sufficient for this, as it was included and was also intended for this purpose.
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Individual parts for the driver's cab ascent.
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The individual parts in the soldering theory.
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The almost finished ascent.
Most satisfactory. -- Russ
Incredible work!
I see that my work is being followed and acknowledged.
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This is now the finished ascent. The end plates on the step are now also soldered. Incidentally, the whole ascent is made up of 90 individual parts and soldered.
Wow, that's amazing!
Beautiful work!!
Jerry
Outstanding work in all respects. Your soldering skills alone are unmatched.
That is terrific work, in all aspects!
I can't report progress, but successful tests will help me.
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First test for the production of the wear buffer screed. Since I want to produce the buffer screed by bending as with the model, I have processed these parts from the outside and inside. The bending should be done with a bending bench but I have no experience how the 1mm MS63 behaves when milling and bending. Then I can determine the exact production dimensions based on the deviations. In order to be able to bend it at all, I deliberately used MS63.
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Here's my abkantest. The material has stretched much more as I suspected and I can correct that now. When drilling, I broke off a 0.5 and a 0.6 mm drill. I will then have to be much more careful when drilling. I had taken this into account when milling and so the milling succeeded better than expected.
Helmut's post should really be the first lesson any modeler learns: No matter how much you know, how much experience you have, and how much skill you possess, it often is necessary to create an assembly several times. And sometimes those first attempts are just for practice. -- Russ
Yes Russ such test are very important to me, that's why it continues with the test buffer carrier.
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In the original, the baffles are welded on, in the model I have hard soldered the front sheets with silver solder. The rear angle is softly soldered into the milled V-groove. So I can also implement the series part so that it goes well and makes a stable impression.
We continue with the wear buffer screed.
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The holder for the clutch is made of 9 milled parts, 4 pieces M0.6 X 2 with nuts and 10 screws. In addition, the buffers are mounted.
More excellent work, Helmut, but one small nit-pick: I think the round cut out is too small for the coin to fit through :)
Bill, thanks for confirming my work. With the coin, this is to be understood differently. In this type of model building, I did not need a money box, for this far too much money is needed for material and tools.
Excellent work! Also, nice to see the coin there for scale.
Hi Helmut.
Always a pleasure to see your work.A very good example of clean confident modeling.
cheers Kim.