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Author Topic: Monorail locomotive 1:16 scale  (Read 68780 times)
Belg
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« Reply #105 on: October 27, 2010, 05:26:31 PM »

Here's a good photo of the bottom of the radiator. This is a great help for one of the harder parts to model on this tractor.



My modeling is going a little slower this week with a colonoscopy on Wednesday and surgery on my umbilical hernia today. Everything turn out good.

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
Gordon, I know I'm not the best mechanic in the world but I don't see a radiator in this picture?? Is it the place where the radiator should be mounted?
I just probably missed part of the conversation somewhere.  Wink
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78ths
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Build in 7/8ths Scale (1:13.7)


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« Reply #106 on: October 27, 2010, 05:33:38 PM »

The radiator would be mounted on the bolt holes below and before the fan. The bottom of the unit you see would mount onto the front axle. Unit. It also shows the starter handle attachment really well.
Stunning build so far Gordon, have been following the build closely and find it very interesting. I am working on a 7/8ths scale series of Fordson powered two foot gauge critters and that is a seperate post once I have more tests completed.
Great styrene workmanship and modeling.
cheers Ferd
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Ferd Mels  Ontario Canada    eh!
SE Scale - all other scales pale by comparison.  7/8"=1'-0"
www.78ths.com
Scratchman
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« Reply #107 on: October 28, 2010, 10:54:31 PM »

Engine block core part 5

I use wood on some of these core parts because I can't buy styrene in some of these larger dimensions. In styrene the largest size I have available is 1/4" x 1/4". A large amount of this wood will be covered up with other detail. I do use a thin CA glue to help cover up the wood grain on metal parts. If I was modeling in a smaller scale the wood parts could be replaced with Styrene. Wood can be shaped easier than styrene but if you need a clean hole drilled styrene is the best.   

A (2) styrene disk 030" 1 11/32" diameter
B (2) styrene  030" x 1 1/4" x 1 11/16"
C (2) styrene disk 030" x 1 3/16" diameter
D (1) wood 3/8" x 27/32" x 1 19/32" (round off the front and two sides)
E (1) wood 1/4" x 1/8" x 5/8"
F (1) wood 1/2" x 3/8" x 1 9/16" (1) wood 1/2" x 1/16" 1 9/16" (1) wood 1/2" x 1/4" x 1 9/16"
G (2) wood 1/32" x 11/16" x 1 9/16"
H (2) wood 1/8" x 3/8" x 1 9/16"



Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
« Last Edit: October 29, 2010, 12:20:08 PM by Scratchman » Logged
MinerFortyNiner
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« Reply #108 on: November 06, 2010, 11:40:12 PM »

Just found the thread...I have enjoyed seeing your work published, Gordon, and seeing it step by step makes it all the more impressive.  Best wishes for a speedy recovery!
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- Verne Niner
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« Reply #109 on: January 02, 2011, 11:58:13 AM »

Top of engine part 6

These six parts are added to part 5.

A (1) styrene 1/8" x 5/8" x 1 9/16"
B (1)  styrene 1/8" x 5/8" x 1 9/16" (on parts A and B I use  two 1/4" and one 1/8" glued together for the 5/8" measurement)
C (1) styrene 005" x 5/8" x 1 9/16"  (this part is the head gasket and I cut it just a bit larger so it will over-hang on the two sides)
D (1) styrene 1/8" x 3/16" x 1 9/16" (shape and add  to the top of part B)
E (1) wood 1/8" x 1/4" x 1" (shape and add to the left side of part 5)
F (1) styrene disk 040" x 3/4" diameter ( Shape and add to the front of part 5)

Drill 1/16" holes for the spark plugs. Find the center and go 1/4" each way and 1/2" each way and  come in 5/32" from the right side. 

Rear gas tank support-dash part 7

I first added the base  part B to the top of part 4.

A (1) styrene 020" x 13/16" x 1 1/4" (the bottom cut has 1/2" left on the bottom up 3/8" and at the top I use the gas tank part 1 as the pattern with the bottom 3/16" down from the top)
B (1) styrene 040" x 1/2" x 13/16"
C (1) styrene 1/4" square tube x 3/8" long
D (1) styrene 030 x 1/4" x 3/8" long (add to the top of part C)
E (2 each) styrene 030" x 100" x 100" (add to the top two corners on the out side face of part A) (2 each) styrene  020" x 100" x 1 1/4" (add to the sides of part A starting at the bottom and trimming the extra at the top) ( 2 each) styrene  020" x 100" x 1/4" (add to the top of part A and trim off to correct size) (2 each) styrene 030" x 030" x 1/2" long (add to inside 3/8" down from the top)
F (2 each) styrene 100" x 100" x 3/8" ( drill 1/16" hole at the center) (2 each) 100" quarter-round x 3/8" long (2 each) styrene 020" x 1/2" x 3/8" long (shape) (add these parts to the side of part C,D)
G (1) 7/32" styrene tube x 9/16" long (bevel at around 45 degrees (1) 1/8" styrene tube x 1/2" long  (1) 3/32" aluminum tube x 1" long (1) 1/16" aluminum tube x 7/8" long (add these  parts to part A)   
H (1) 7/8 inch scale brake wheel casting from Ozark Miniatures.   





Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
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Ken Hamilton
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« Reply #110 on: January 02, 2011, 06:30:41 PM »

Gordon, your scratchbuilding procedures are a joy to behold and your S-B-S's are a wealth of information.
The way to break down and reproduce simple shapes and assemble them into recognizable objects
is simply amazing.  You make it look so easy...............
Thanks for sharing this project.
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« Reply #111 on: February 17, 2011, 03:48:12 PM »


Parts between the front of the engine and the radiator part 7.
 
A (1 each) styrene 1/4" x 1/4" x 040" - 1/4" x 1/8" x 060" - 1/4" x 1/2" x 040"
B (1 each) styrene 1/4" x 1/2" x 100" - 1/4" x 1/4" x 100" - 1/4" x 1/4" x 040" 
C (2) 1/4" x 3/8" x 060"
D (2) 1/4" x 1/2" x 040"
E (2) 1/4" x 1/4" x 040"
F (1) 1/4" x 1/4" x 040" (drill 1/16 hole)

I drilled a 1/16" hole in the front of the engine for the starter shaft. 
The shaft is 1/16" brass tube with the belt-pulley made out of 1/32" tube 3/16" long and 5/32" tube 1/8" long
The fan was built up with (1) 1/4" diameter 020" thick hole punch for the center. (4) styrene 020" x 156" x 3/8" long for the blades.
On the back of the fan assemble I used (2) 1/4" diameter 030" thick hole punch for the belt-pulley.
The fan belt is made out of fishing line.
I used a piece of Milliput and hand carved it for the bottom water line.
I laminated three pieces of styrene for the upper water line. 

   

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
 
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Scratchman
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« Reply #112 on: February 17, 2011, 03:57:29 PM »

For part 7 I needed a jig to help  line up  part 7 with the radiator and engine front.



Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
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Ken Hamilton
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« Reply #113 on: February 17, 2011, 09:06:35 PM »

Geez, Gordon, your jigs are better than most of our models....
Beautiful craftsmanship, engineering and artistry.
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finescalerr
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« Reply #114 on: February 18, 2011, 02:58:31 AM »

Don't encourage him. He'll do even better! -- Russ
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Scratchman
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« Reply #115 on: March 02, 2011, 08:23:54 PM »

Here's three photos of the Fordson monorail loco, and one photo of  both locos









I will get back to the last parts on the tractor.

Gordon Birrell

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77318580@N00/
« Last Edit: March 03, 2011, 02:20:18 PM by Scratchman » Logged
NORCALLOGGER
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« Reply #116 on: March 02, 2011, 08:39:04 PM »



Superb Gordon, Just superb.
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nalmeida
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« Reply #117 on: March 03, 2011, 03:38:19 AM »

Wonderful looking locomotives Gordon, love the color scheme.
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finescalerr
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« Reply #118 on: March 03, 2011, 03:38:43 AM »

What are you guys doing awake at this hour?

Satisfactory work, Gordon. I was wondering when you would resume work on the monorail.

Russ
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Chuck Doan
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« Reply #119 on: March 04, 2011, 03:57:26 PM »

Spectacular! I just might get back to mine now that I see how good it will look. Can't wait to see it on the track!
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“They're most important to me. Most important. All the little details.” -Joseph Cotten, Shadow of a Doubt





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