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Author Topic: Peeling paint on corrugated Metal  (Read 13196 times)
marc_reusser
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« on: May 12, 2007, 03:18:11 AM »

I wanted to see what results I could acheive bu using the "Acrylic over Hairspray" technique on corrugated metal, in 1/48 scale.

These are pieces of "home rolled" alumin., etched with Ferric Chloride, and scrubbed clean in water with a toothbrush. They were airbrushed with diluted hairspray, and when dry painted with acrylics. Each piece is 1/2" (1,25 cm) wide x approx 1" (2,5 cm) tall (a scale 23"x 48")

Here are the three different test examples/results:




#1 (left) Tamiya "TS" acrylic from a spray can, removed with a stiff brush & alcohol.




#2 (center) Tamiya XF-2 Airbrushed, removed with a stiff brush & water.



#3 (right) Tamiya XF-2 airbrushed & removed with alcohol.




Marc
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« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2007, 12:52:47 PM »

Works for me! The result is so good, it is very difficult to find giveaways that it's a miniature. Do you think the technique would apply to as effectively to wood? (The porous nature of wood is why I ask.) -- Russ
« Last Edit: May 12, 2007, 12:56:10 PM by finescalerr » Logged
marc_reusser
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« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2007, 01:57:09 PM »

Thanks Russ,

No, I don't think this would work on wood. There are already some minor issues to overcome with this technique due to the "etched/porous" nature of the material surface.

I think with wood, I would stick to Chuck Doan's "resist" method, or Marcel Ackels "Gum Arabic" method...or some derivation of those.

[This is in a sense a "resist" method, as the hairspray is intended to lessen the bond between the paint and surface...I have considered trying some form of the Gum Arabic method on this, by Airbrushing the GA thinly and smoothly onto the metal, then airbrushing paint over it....though I think this would likely work best  in 1/35 and up.]

I am testing another approach with the corrucated to see if I can make it "easier" to do/work-with. and it may allow in the end for the possibility od leaving out the etching step, for those that don't wish to mess with it.

Marc
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« Reply #3 on: May 13, 2007, 01:21:12 AM »

An update:

I experimented some more with this today, and made some interesting discoveries.

If I spray the etched piece with Floquil "Flat Clear" before the hairspray, and then once painted with the acrylic let it all dry in the sun for about 2 hours, I can use a sharp wooden toothpick to very easily chip/peel the Acrylic off where I want. Offers a lot of control (though this is probably one application where the randomness of chipping is a plus). I will post some pics as soon as I add the washes.




Here are some proto examples turned up in a quick search:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kenthenderson/45248813/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gerryland/488237077/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/walkaboutwolf/317641704/



http://farm1.static.flickr.com/18/23890228_e348e905d9.jpg?v=0

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/18/23910723_9e8a0f885c.jpg?v=1145651264


Marc
« Last Edit: May 13, 2007, 01:40:15 AM by marc_reusser » Logged

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Chuck Doan
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« Reply #4 on: May 14, 2007, 04:15:59 PM »

More inspiration...

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/57/204405237_3cdda74678_b.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/83/213646005_2bd3e2e7e6_b.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/174/420692870_0a9915989f_b.jpg

Marc, what brand hairspray are you liking? (I thought the wet head was dead)

CD
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http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/
marc_reusser
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« Reply #5 on: May 14, 2007, 04:52:36 PM »

Thanks. Neat stuff!

For the most recent stuff I used:

"Pantene Pro-V: Classic Hairspray" Unscented.

It comes in a pummp bottle.  I also found on the recent stuff, that you can get away with brushing the stuff on. It seems to be pretty "self leveling"...just need to make sure of the thickness soa s not obscure/fill fine detail.


Heres a shot of the Hairspray:



Marc

« Last Edit: May 15, 2007, 03:42:40 AM by marc_reusser » Logged

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« Reply #6 on: May 14, 2007, 04:53:38 PM »

Just an "add-in" note re. the Tamiya "TS" Paints:

The "TS" paints (spray can) are formulated different from the Arcylic
paint in the jars. I am not sure what they are, but they seem to be
closer to an enamel. So working time and results will differ. I also
noticed that some TS paints are labled 'Matte" and others
aren't....though even among tose that aren't some have finished in
matte or satin...while others have been semi gloss......haven't used
them enough to understand/explain quite what is going on there. Though
for sure the matte labled ones are a "matte finish".

Marc
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« Reply #7 on: May 15, 2007, 03:50:37 AM »

OK...here are the photos of the updated/revised experiment. As mentioned these pieces were sprayed with Floquil "Flat Clear" (from a spray can) [The clear coat did seem to darken the metal color/finish a bit.],  and let dry for about 2 hours, before the hair-spray application; and then once painted with the acrylic let it all dry in the sun for about 2 hours. Chipping was done using a pin and a pointed wooden toothpick.

Weathering and finishing was done with artists oils, Bragdons Powders, and Mig pigments.

All three pieces were done in the same manner.









Marc

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