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Author Topic: 1:48(On30) Brass 0-6-0  (Read 21362 times)
lab-dad
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« on: April 25, 2010, 01:46:46 PM »

I purchased on of these brass and cast metal kits that uses a Bachmann HO 0-6-0 mechanizim.
I used the etchings that make the cab and saddle tank but will not be using the cast metal details.
I have some PSC details I may use and have been building the others from scratch.
Obviously these are "in progress" shots









-Marty
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Tom Neeson
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« Reply #1 on: April 25, 2010, 02:57:13 PM »

That's really neat Marty, who makes the conversion kit?

Err...shouldn't have asked, my loco to freight car ratio right now is 6:0.
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finescalerr
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« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2010, 03:24:31 PM »

Nice work so far. How are you going to get the domes to fit the curvature of the tank? -- Russ
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Mr Potato Head
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« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2010, 07:15:23 PM »

I have always wanted one of these kits, but he made them for HO mechanisms, and I have a bunch of On30 stuff, do I really need the kit if I have to change out the domes, and Huh?? Would it be easier to scratch it yourself, or do I need the major parts?
Gil
Ps I like all your machine work!
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Gil Flores
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lab-dad
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« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2010, 07:38:47 AM »

Unc,
The dome bases have been troubling me for some time, I just avoided it until I had to come up with a solution.
I ordered a fly cutter from Sherline this morning, it is small enough to do the .750 radius.
I'll need to make a jig to hold the dome horizontally in the mill.
I hope it works.
If it does I may make the sand domes.

Gil,
The tank and cab etchings are pretty important and would be time consuming to do.
They fold up nice, even though the saddle tank is about .020" too short.
Placing the running board laminations all on top of the tank edge would solve that.
I will likely do one of the side tank engines next year.
Thanks for the compliments!

Boy having CAD on the Sherline would sure make duplicates of everything a lot easier!
Guess all my pieces are "one of a kind!"
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TRAINS1941
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« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2010, 08:10:13 AM »

-MJ
 
Very nice indeed. Your machining skills are becoming more evident with every new build.  Excellent my friend.

Jerry
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George Carlin
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« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2010, 09:52:34 PM »

Not! “One of a kind”
 ONE-OFF’S
There more valuable that way!
Hey they have that TV show “Pimp my Ride” or “Overhauling”
You could start your own Cable series!
“Pimp My Narrow Gauge Locomotive”

Doesn’t quite have the same catchy ring but it will catch on!

Gil
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Gil Flores
In exile in Boise Idaho
Philip Smith
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« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2010, 08:20:49 AM »

Marty....Looks to be a very involved project ! Does the fly cutter profile match the radius of the boiler. I'd like to see a quick SBS if possible. 

Philip
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RoughboyModelworks
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« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2010, 09:28:27 AM »

Marty:

The fly cutter is the best way to cut the radius, just be certain to use shallow cuts. The cutting blade should be adjustable so you can fine tune the radius of the cut. The biggest challenge will be set up, making certain that the dome is exactly 90° to the axis of the cutter and that your z-axis is correctly aligned so that the dome will sit 90° to the boiler and along the center line. If you need to fine tune the radius after milling, turn a wood block to the same diameter as the boiler, less the thickness of a piece of emery paper. Then simply work the dome over the sanding form until you get the perfect fit on the boiler.

Paul
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lab-dad
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« Reply #9 on: April 27, 2010, 11:30:10 AM »

Thanks Paul,
That was the plan.
I intend to make a jig to hold the dome parallel, then just a matter of centering up the mill head and fly cutting.
Since there seems to be some interest I will try and remember to take a picture of the set up while cutting.
-Marty
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marc_reusser
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« Reply #10 on: April 27, 2010, 01:14:33 PM »

Nice work so far. You really are mastering that brass. Look forward to your progress.

Marc
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M-Works
Philip Smith
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« Reply #11 on: April 27, 2010, 08:55:06 PM »

Marty:

The fly cutter is the best way to cut the radius, just be certain to use shallow cuts. The cutting blade should be adjustable so you can fine tune the radius of the cut. The biggest challenge will be set up, making certain that the dome is exactly 90° to the axis of the cutter and that your z-axis is correctly aligned so that the dome will sit 90° to the boiler and along the center line. If you need to fine tune the radius after milling, turn a wood block to the same diameter as the boiler, less the thickness of a piece of emery paper. Then simply work the dome over the sanding form until you get the perfect fit on the boiler.

Paul

Good enough for me. transmission received!

Phil
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lucas gargoloff
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« Reply #12 on: April 27, 2010, 09:13:56 PM »

Looks like you have something to have fun!! Nice models at the kitchen Marty!
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Lucas Gargoloff - Argentina
lab-dad
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« Reply #13 on: April 28, 2010, 07:28:15 AM »

Thanks again guys!
I got the foot boards soldered to the pilots last night....Sad
Oh well better luck next time, I think I filled the swear jar doing it!

Marc! I thought you hated Porters! awwww shucks!  Huh Grin Roll Eyes
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     Martin G. Jones Photography
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lab-dad
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« Reply #14 on: April 29, 2010, 07:24:43 AM »

Well the flycutter came yesterday! (ordered from Sherline Sunday night!) Grin
So I set up to cut the radius on the steam dome.

First off;
How to set the cutter to make a .750" radius cut? (1.5" diameter)Huh
I thought about a dial indicator, but how to "read" the backside?
So I checked with my caliper and set it a little smaller.
Then I put a scrap in the vise and made some test cuts, eventually I snuck up to a diameter of 1.495"
I had to trim some of the back of the cutter so it wouldn't hit the workpiece.
more in a sec.
-Marty


* testcut.jpg (162.17 KB, 837x1179 - viewed 510 times.)
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     Martin G. Jones Photography
    Go not where the path leads
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           And leave a trail
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