5x5x7 project (1/35 scale)

[marc_reusser]

OK...here goes.

Nothing earth shattering or new, but this is how it is starting.

Baswood is cut and sanded to the desired sizes. Some scores are drawn lengthwise along the boards/grain. Additional grain is then added using the Micro-Mark Wire brush. fine steel wool is then used to remove any fuzz (being careful not to round the edges.




Wood is colored using Valleyo Acrylics. Working "wet" to blend and work the colors. When almost dry, some surfaces are given a slight dry brushing using the lightest color.




After base wood coloring is thoroughly dry, the surface is wetted with turpentine, then the color coat is apllied in a thick layer. When almost dry, this layer is "peeled" using masking tape. The color coat boards are done in batches/groups, for each batch a new mix of the color is done....but not to the same/previous mix/ratio.....just "eyeballed"...this will give you some variation in the board coloring (as can be seen in the image). Once peeled and dry, some Bragdons powders lightly are brushed over the entire surface....this is then followed by a damp/moist brushing of Mr. Color Thinner.




...that's all for now....need to get back to the piles of stripwood.



MR. 

[marc_reusser]

Oooops, forgot the close-up view.

Still working on this technique...not quite fully happy with it yet....maybe by the time I finish all the wood pieces, I'll get a better feel for it.




MR

[RoughboyModelworks]

Looking good Marc, as usual... but is this a stealth project or am I missing something?

Paul

[marc_reusser]

Why spoil the fun....might as well keep you guys wondering.    Just think of it as something for Russ....not physically...but the final project photos.

MR (as usual being a PIA)

[RoughboyModelworks]

Just think of it as something for Russ....
MR (as usual being a PIA)

Oh well, in that case there must be a voluptuous thong-glad young woman involved...

Paul

[finescalerr]

Marc is very selfish about his thong bikini girls. He never shares. And he's just trying to make me jealous of his wood weathering techniques because he knows I'm still working with paper. This is insufferable. -- Russ

[shropshire lad]

Why spoil the fun....might as well keep you guys wondering.    Just think of it as something for Russ....not physically...but the final project photos.

MR (as usual being a PIA)

"Final project photos" and "Marc Reusser" in the same post ? There's an oxymoron if ever there was one !

Marc ,

  Chilax , Man , those pieces of stripwood look perfectly acceptable to me . I'm glad you are doing this now as I have various bits of wood work I need to do and watching how you do it will be a great help .

  Nick

[lab-dad]

Do we win a prize if we guess what it is?

Marc, did you experience any problems with the paint below the turp?
How long did it dry? I would think there would be issues?

-Marty

[Ken Hamilton]

Those boards look great, Marc.  I'd like to try that................

[marc_reusser]

Thanks for the encouragement guys.

I forgot how much I hate doing wood.... ....this has to be the most excruciatingly painful and time consuming process that I can think of.....YET....I think it has great potential, and resolves a most of the problems/issues I always have with the stained/dyed stripwood methods.

Ia m still playing/learning this approach, and some of the results are a bit towards the"charicaturish"....but I am okay with that for this.....as the whole thing will be that to some extent, just due to the nature of what it is.

So far I have only colored about 1/3 of the wood parts, (working on getting at least 10 pieces done per night ) I figured I would try some pics in natural sun light.




One of the peeled painted walls (about 1-1/2" wide):




One of the natural wood walls (it's actually photographed upside down, but I didn't want to rotate the image, because it made the shadows confusing to the eye):




It's amazing how much more the bits of fuzz and grain show in the macro photos.....in real life, it doesn't really show much, if at all.


MARTY:
Yes, I did have issues with the paint under the turp....but not because of the turp, rather due to the tape lifting paint/grain through/below the turp, and exposing some of the wood. (But I had the same issues when using Chucks method with the Silverwood).  Though a pain, it was rather easy to resolve by using a small brush and touching a bit of Silverwood to those areas.  This is an area that could do with further experimenting...I think Marcels method/use of Gum Arabic might work better than the turp....though brush painting the Acrylic over that stuff can make a mess of it....and great care would need to be taken to not get the GA on the sides or the back (if the backs are to be seen, such as in this project).....with turp, it doesn't really matter, as it dries without any residue.  I let the base wood colored boards dry between 2 hours to overnight....the longer dried ones seemed to fare a bit better insofar as not exposing the raw baswood. I think the amount and depth of graining definitely also plpays a part in how much wood the tape will pick up.



MR

[Chuck Doan]

I think it is looking great! i would say it doesn't look charichurist at all, except I can't spell it!

[RoughboyModelworks]

Well for someone who claims to hate working with wood, you're doing a fine job... looks great Marc.

Paul

[mobilgas]

I think this build might have something to do with the Westlake 2010 modeling challange     Craig

[finescalerr]

Complain, complain, complain! But it looks very, very good so what's the problem? You'd never get a comparable result from styrene. Maybe from paper if you were to combine your approach with mine but I'm pretty sure the wood would win, even taking into consideration your skills and talent.

A word about the grain and detail under the macro: It's a fact of life and it's what makes the thing come alive to the naked eye. My experience with paper is that you get closer to scale and it looks great under magnification. But, to the naked eye, it appears to lack dimension and depth. As you have told me more than once: Everything is a compromise. Your technique, even under the macro, seems to minimize that compromise.

Most adequate.

Russ

[marc_reusser]

Well thanks again guys...it's been interesting so far.

Russ I understand what you are saying but it's always scary and perplexing to see. I work with 7x magnification when doing this, and thought I could see it all.....but then come the photos on my new HD monitor,... and WHOA!. Just kind bugs me.....maybe I will need to start take my photos from further back

The color of the grey also seems just a bit on the blue side to me when it dries......so I need to see if I can maybe find one that is a bit in the warmer side.

I actually think you could do this same or almost identical finish on styrene.....I plan to try it on one of my shelf orphan projects (the sewage dispersal car), when I get a chance.

I think this build might have something to do with the Westlake 2010 modeling challange     Craig

Westlake Modeling Challenge???......I don't believe I am familiar with that .......


MR