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Author Topic: 5x5x7 project (1/35 scale)  (Read 106763 times)
marc_reusser
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« Reply #195 on: February 18, 2011, 11:12:46 PM »

Thanks guys. the Texture is actually much finer and less spotty of the real piece.... the pic magnification just really enhances every little speck.

Marc
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M-Works
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« Reply #196 on: February 21, 2011, 05:14:20 PM »

Marc - As I have been digging watching this one evolve for a while - and I'm hoping this doesn't count as hijacking your thread - but where is the right place to ask about the 1:35th rail stuff in general?  Besides seeing the static stuff that DML, Trumpy, and resin guys like Libor have been up to recently, 35th is all static at this point (minus the odd custom project)?  I ask as I was looking at some recent comment's in Jaqc's amazing set up and he was making reference to a future project in 1:35th - but I was under the impression that he did "working rail"?

I'm asking here as I know you float back and forth between the two disciplines in what seems to be a fairly seamless manner, and my next project will be 1:35 pump or turbine houses.

Thanks!

Paul
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marc_reusser
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« Reply #197 on: February 22, 2011, 03:14:20 AM »

Paul,

Really no such thing as thread hijacking here. Smiley  There is a growing contingent of RR modelers that model small operating layouts in 1/35. (They are the ones that have seen the light  Wink Grin ) These layouts generally depict small industrial operations, not the large main-line stuff like Trumpeter and DML makes. For the most part, all rolling stock (cars) and locomotives need to be scratchbuilt or kitbashed, though there are a couple of mfrs. that do make small industial steam and petrol locomotives, and some quarry skips, in this scale (IMO one of, if not, the best, Bernard Snoodyk [narrowgauger] is a member here). Slowly, more small/specialy RR mfrs are starting to the benefits of this scale (all the crossover possibilites and available detail parts, with the armor market), and are bringing the occasional offerings to market.  There are a couple of guys here that have/are building operating 1/35 layouts, Bernard being one, Nick (who you are now already acquaited with Cheesy ), and Franck Tavernier (who built a beautiful quarry layout)...and now Jacq will soon join this lot. I am sure there are others as well, but they don't spring to mind at the moment. I look forward to your pump or turbine house...interesting choice of subject.

Ok....back to our regularly scheduled program already in progress.

After a coat of matte clear, and a couple of coats of hairspray, the frame and wheel bearings were painted with a mix of Tamiya "Nato Black" and "White", to give a faded black appearance.



This was followed by a random sponge application of Life-Color Tensochrome "White"., give a mottled chalky feel to the black paint. The paint was then chipped using a variety of small brushes. As one can see in the images at some of the edges and high points I scrubbed a bit too hard and wore through to the primer.




Touch-up and more weathering to come....


Marc
« Last Edit: February 22, 2011, 03:17:22 AM by marc_reusser » Logged

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« Reply #198 on: February 22, 2011, 07:28:59 AM »

Marc

Thanks for sharing the how to.  I really like the effect with the sponge.

Jerry
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« Reply #199 on: March 08, 2011, 01:52:48 AM »

Wheels with base rust tones, and some metalic sheen on the rolling surface, and wheels after application of dust and dirt.



Frame after initial dirt and dust application, and rain marks. Done with Odorless Turpentine, Abt-502 "Buff" oil paint, and CMK, & MIG pigments.




Below is one of many reference pics I have for dirty frames.

Marc




* Frame Example.jpg (110.85 KB, 460x290 - viewed 2737 times.)
« Last Edit: March 08, 2011, 02:01:34 AM by marc_reusser » Logged

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« Reply #200 on: March 08, 2011, 03:29:00 AM »

Awesome - looks like the real thing as usual! Shocked

Anders Grin
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mad gerald
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« Reply #201 on: March 08, 2011, 04:07:00 AM »

Holy Moly ...  Shocked

... now that looks the part ...

... and makes me feel very uncomfortable  Undecided, while comparing my humble attempts of painting and weathering my wheels and flatcar to this ... well, I'll try harder ...

Kind regards
Gerald
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Frederic Testard
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« Reply #202 on: March 08, 2011, 04:08:08 AM »

Marc, I am always very impressed by the way you're able to finish any metal part so as it shows multiple layers of dust, rust, and all of this in a perfectly realistic way.
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Frederic Testard
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« Reply #203 on: March 08, 2011, 07:02:46 AM »

Great finish on the metal - wow - love the look.
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Ferd Mels  Ontario Canada    eh!
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« Reply #204 on: March 08, 2011, 08:42:18 AM »

Really super Marc, thanks for the how-to's. I give a try to just about everything you suggest for finishing. My problem is that I should completely re outfit my paint supply with those brands you recommend and have about a lifetime more experience to get your results.
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Malachi Constant
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« Reply #205 on: March 08, 2011, 09:00:17 AM »

Appreciate the notes, photos of different steps ... and, of course, the results.  -- Dallas
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TRAINS1941
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« Reply #206 on: March 08, 2011, 10:16:42 AM »

Just have to admit it looks like the real thing.  Great job Marc.

Jerry
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« Reply #207 on: March 09, 2011, 03:07:19 AM »

Are you sure you can't do better? -- ssuR
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marc_reusser
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« Reply #208 on: March 09, 2011, 04:59:33 AM »

Thanks guys....but I am merely just trying to keep up with all the great work you guys have been posting.

It's really an easy process.....and you don't necessarily need the products I use....I use them because I like their quality and/or colors for my needs. First step is to find the pigment colors you feel will give you the tones of dust or dirt you want to show. Put them next to eachother in a small pallet...find a complimentary oil paint color and place it on the edge of a small amount of odorless turpentine...and mix just a bit into the turp. to create a dirty wash (density will vary depending on need, taste, and practice). Lightly dampen the surface area to be worked with some clean turpentine, then apply the dust wash into corners, grooves, surfaces and around details as desired. (if too much or in the wrong place it can be picked up with a clean brush or makeup sponge)....while the wash nd surface is still damp use asmall dry brush to dab, tap, or sprinkle, random mixes nd amount of pigments...then if/ as needed use a clean brush and clean turpentine and a makeup sponge to  manipulate change or remove the pigments as needed/desired. Additional pigment or oil wash can be added as desired. Let dry.  One can add and touch up as needed once dry.

Marc
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« Reply #209 on: March 09, 2011, 06:09:14 PM »

Hi Marc
Thanks for the walk through, will have to give it a try. Really well explained and makes sense. Looking forward to playing with the technique.

cheers Ferd
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Ferd Mels  Ontario Canada    eh!
SE Scale - all other scales pale by comparison.  7/8"=1'-0"
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