Photo Phun: Setting Up Outdoor Diorama Shots

[Ken Hamilton]

After shooting the Lumber Buggy in the lumber yard, I dug out a couple other
examples of setting up outdoor shots against a natural backdrop. 
This one consists of two structures set on platforms behind a separate scenic
diorama with a steep front slope for photography:



Here's the result (this is a scanned print, so it might not be too sharp):



Here's another one that was for a model car kit box.  The set-up:



The shot:



Neither of these are as "subject-specific" as the lumber yard shots, but I thought you guys
might like to see them.

[Chuck Doan]

It is great how you take several seperate dios and make it all come together...and no photo shop, just good old fashioned eye foolery. Says a lot about your modelling too!

[Hauk]

Neither of these are as "subject-specific" as the lumber yard shots, but I thought you guys
might like to see them.

Yep, very educational!

It seems to me that the key to make this kind of set up  really work is to make sure  that the "real" stuff in the background is  as much in focus as the models in the foreground.

This might sound a bit counter-intuitive, but  hear me out.
Most of the time we shoot model pictures outdoors we do it  in bright sunshine.
And like in Kens pictures we often  shoot from distances of about 40 to 60 scale feet.

In bright sunshine we often shoot at f 22 or even smaller apertures. With such small apertures and focus set to 20 -40  *real* feet, depth of field will in most instances reach to infinity when we use "normal" or wide-angle lenses.
Alas, the backgrounds should be as sharp as our models.

I think that Kens favourite pictre of the lumber-loader Ken illustrates this point.

[mobilgas]

Ken,       i really like the way you set the shots up.  the one with the old pickup thats on the side of the hill, i seen that one before? was it on a model-car forum??  Craig

[finescalerr]

Here are a couple of things you might add to your photography arsenal: If your camera has a lot of resolution, say 12 or more megapixels, and you know the photo will not be more than a half-page or so, you could move the camera farther from the subject and still shoot at f/22 or f/32. That will create more depth of field (sharper backgrounds) but you will have to crop the photo to enlarge the subject. It is possible to lose some resolution of you overdo it but everything will be fine if you use common sense.

The ideal lighting for many shots is just after sunrise or just before sunset when the shadows are long. For best effect, position the subject so the shadows fall toward the camera, at least to some degree, to enhance texture and detail. If they fall away from the camera, any lighting will be flat, bland, and boring.

Also when shooting in sunlight, you need to decrease contrast. Otherwise you'll lose a lot of shadow detail. An easy way to do that is to use a reflector, either a white card (piece of foamcore or white cardboard) or a homemade reflector. Make the latter by crunching up aluminum foil, then flattening it out again and gluing it to a fairly rigid backing of cardboard, styrene, wood, or whatever. Usually the dull side of the foil works best (but not always). Since the cost is essentially zero, make up a lot of reflectors in sizes ranging from a couple of inches square to a foot or two.

One reflector, or a combination, will throw sunlight back into the shadows to bring out detail. The illumination should not be obvious; as in everything, keep it fairly subtle. The camera will see the result better than your eye.

There is more but that's all I can think of at the moment.

Russ

[Ken Hamilton]

Good points, Russ.  Thanks...........

Craig, that truck has found its way into several different scenes. 
So has that sloped, foreground diorama:

[chester]

Thanks for all the tips Ken and Russ. Taking photos of models is as much an art as the build itself. And you can't beat Mother Natures lighting.

[John McGuyer]

I have a hard time focusing on one item. Let alone three.  You guys are good!

John

[Hauk]

Also when shooting in sunlight, you need to decrease contrast. Otherwise you'll lose a lot of shadow detail. An easy way to do that is to use a reflector, either a white card (piece of foamcore or white cardboard) or a homemade reflector. Make the latter by crunching up aluminum foil, then flattening it out again and gluing it to a fairly rigid backing of cardboard, styrene, wood, or whatever. Usually the dull side of the foil works best (but not always). Since the cost is essentially zero, make up a lot of reflectors in sizes ranging from a couple of inches square to a foot or two.

Good point. Here are three images that might illustrate your point:


No reflector, just sunlight.


With metallic foil reflector


Sunlight filtered through matte drafting paper, no reflector

[RoughboyModelworks]

Great shots Ken... thanks for sharing your setup. I particularly like the shot of the 4x4 in the foreground with the "RV" in the background. I'd love to see more shots of the RV, looks like some of my neighbours!

Paul

[Ken Hamilton]

Paul, I never did take any overall shots of the finished camper by itself, but here are a couple of detail shots:







Here's a link to some others:

http://public.fotki.com/khamilton/models/open_road_camper/

Thanks...........

[RoughboyModelworks]

I love it... those are fantastic Ken. Took me a while to find the empty beer cans and cigarette packs, but they're there. I like the issues of Hot Rod scattered around, the freshly painted valve covers, Purina Chow patch on the patio door, the newspapers being bundled for recycling, the girlie calendar, the duct tape repairs... it's all wonderfully evocative without being a caricature... well done.

Paul

[finescalerr]

Not too bad, Ken. Your skills are coming along. -- Russ

[marklayton]

Ken -

That first photo tripped my recollection.  Had to go up and scrounge through my book cases to find my 2001 copy of Ken's How to Build Creative Dioramas for Your Scale Auto Models.  Ken's book contains a lot of great tips for weathering - I highly recommend it.

Mark

[Ray Dunakin]

Fantastic work! Tons of detail without being over-done.