1/2"-scale Lumber Buggy

[marc_reusser]

Nicely done Ken.

Did you cut the radiator opening in before removing the buck (to retain backing stability)?

Marc

[TRAINS1941]

Ken

Great job, thanks for sharing how that is done.

Jerry

[Ken Hamilton]

Did you cut the radiator opening in before removing the buck (to retain backing stability)?

.....didn't have to.  The .030" styrene retained most of its thickness after "The Stretch"
and was easily cut and sanded after the grill was cut down to size.  Thinner stock may
have been a problem, but this one worked out pretty well.

Thanks, Marc, and thanks to all for the favorable comments.  Glad you're enjoying the How-To's

[Ray Dunakin]

Ken, this is a great thread! I like your creative modeling techniques.

BTW, which kit did that engine come from? I could sure use one (or more!) of those.

[Ken Hamilton]

Thanks, Ray:

The motor is from a "Galaxie Limited" 1948 Chevy.  Here's a link:

http://galaxielimited.com/

EDIT:  I had the wrong web address.  The correct one is now listed above

There are straight-sixes in several other 1/25th-scale model car kits out there, but this is one of the best.

While I'm here, here's the latest update.
 


The hood was formed from a piece of thin aluminum flashing.  I made a buck to shape it over, but the
aluminum would spring back when it was pressed over the buck....



I could have hammered it into shape on the buck but then I would've had to fill & file the
surface to get it smooth again (too much work).  Since this was such a simple shape, I ended
up just rolling it with an X-acto handle.....



.....and using the buck as a test-fit guide.

Next up:  Steering column & linkage.  Stay tuned!

[finescalerr]

May I be the first to compliment you on this stage? This looks like a project worthy of consideration for a Logging Annual. -- Russ

[lab-dad]

I wondered when you'd get back to us over here.
Thanks for the update, the additional pieces on the hood are a great tip.
-Marty

[TRAINS1941]

Ken

Nice real nice!!  Good tip on how to do the hood.  What's really good is how you show the bad and how you correct it to get to the final stage.

Jerry

[Ken Hamilton]

Thanks, guys.

Jerry, some builds require more "correction" than others, and I've found that it helps to
show the mistakes so others might be able to avoid them.  Plus, it helps eliminate some
of the Intimidation Factor of scratchbuilding.  It hardly ever works right the first time (...for me, anyway)
 

[Ray Dunakin]

Thanks for the link!

Your lumber buggy is looking great.

[Ken Hamilton]

You're welcome, Ray. 
Those kits should be available at any good hobby shop that has car kits.

Here's a quick update on the working steering (it works from the drag link
on down to the tie rod. The steering box doesn't do anything....):



All the pins are temporary....

[TRAINS1941]

Ken

Nice job.  Fine workmanship.

Jerry

[jacq01]

    Ken,

    super...
    Did you make your own adjustable gafs ??

    Jacq

[Ken Hamilton]

Thanks, gentlemen.

Jacq:  Yes, they're all scratchbuilt.  The clevis ends are drilled & bent brass strip soldered
to a .030" brass wire, the end of which is threaded with a mini-die from a set I've had for years.

(Don't tell anyone, but they aren't really adjustable - they just LOOK like they work.  The ends pivot
for the "working steering" feature, but the rods are not adjustable. The mini-nuts slip over the threaded
end of the shaft and the shaft & nut are glued into the larger tubing).

[Frederic Testard]

Very nice part, Ken. Once again, two photos and a few words show us very well what to do to make a model like this. (And then, it's up to us to do the rest...)