Thanks Guys. I am pleasantly pleased with it.
Dan: Will you be posting pics of the Dolly Varden layout? Would be really interested. This was my first time using the salt technique. FWIW I posted this response to a query about it over on MIG...maybe it is of interest/use:
"This was my first time using this technique. Sorry I didn't take SBS photos, I was trying to cram it in before dinner time and before it got too dark to paint (I paint outside). I will take some pics as I do the VW. IMO one thing that can cause a problem is if the surface is too wet (so the salt starts to disolve rather than just stick), and if the paint is applied too wet or too heavy; too wet makes the salt disolve, and too thick makes it hard to remove or can cause a ridge (which might be a desired effect in some instances, but is definitely "scale dependent"). For the salt I used a prefilled/disposable salt grinder from a "Trader Joes" store, mixed with some Kosher salt. This gives you all sizes and shapes. To apply it I wet/dampened limited areas or surfaces with a soft flat brush and applied the salt as I went, trying not to accidentally re-wet areas where salt was already applied. To apply the salt I used a small PE scoop (It fits into a #11 Xacto handle, unfortunately I can't remember what PE tool set it came from...I bought it at the Jordi-Rubio shop..so It might be from them or maybe Tech-Star)....the scoop easily lets you pick up small and large grains and get a pretty well controlled application."
If you decide to build the Gundams please post the builds. This site/forum is focused only on MaK
http://maschinenkrueger.com/forum/index.php but you might enjoy browsing about for ideas inspiration...or just for a change of scenery
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Randy: I have not shot the normal range of Life-Colors through the airbrush. The one I shot was part of one of theier weathering sets..so it had a different composition and consistency. I shot it un-diluted (as this specific one was already thinned)...and it shot on really well and smooth. It was hot and dry here yesterday, so it did seem to suffer from the same issue as the Vallejo's.....drying in the nozzel after short periods of use....which required a quick tip removal and wipe with a soft rag (I could probably have used a retarder had I not been lazy). It dried very quickly on the surface, and had a beautiful dead-flat finish. The pigment seems to be very fine like the Vallejo, so it went on nice and smooth and evenly. It was a bit toughr to clean the airbrush than the vallejo...it seemed to dry harder (though this could be just this specific composition)...In the end it to 90% Iso alcohol and some q-tip effort to det it all out. A note re. my experience with the regular life color paints: I have found that over a period of time they do tend to thicken or dry out. I try to check mine every other month or so, and add/mix in a little bit of distilled water where needed.
Paul: You should have seen how flaming it was before I added the wash over it ...bright Fuschia
Jacq: Which paints are not available?...The Floquil and the Life Color? The floquil oil based will probably be difficult or impossible for you to find in Europe, due to the Environmental laws. But the Life-Color should be relatively easy to find from a good armor modeling supplier/shop. And the Vallejos should be no problem whatsoever. What are you currently using to paint your models?
Marc
