Little shed to scale 1:22.5

[Marcel Ackle]

My idea


My drawing


My model






























...to be continued

[MikeC]

That's some very nice modeling, Marcel. The brickwork and the weathered door are both quite convincing.

What did you use to make your bricks?

[TRAINS1941]

Marcel,

Very nice.  Just great coloring in the brick but the door is just outstanding!!

Jerry

[lab-dad]

Interseting build, like the others I am impressed.
How about a little more info on what you did and how you did it?
Especially on the mortar, I just screwed up a beautiful chimney by adding the mortar.....
-Marty

[marc_reusser]

( @Marcel: Hab einfach eine uebersetzung von den Posten auf dem MB gemacht. )


Here is Marcel's description of the images and Techniques:

The building is to be  small storage shed for fertilizer and pesticides to go with the Feldbahn (Field/Agricultural Railway) Diorama

Pic. 1:
An initial mock-up was done with foam-core to check size and proportion.

Pic. 2:
A drawing was then done of the elevations based on the foam core model.

Pic. 3:
A sheet of thin plywood was cut as backing sheet, onto which the brick portion of the drawing was glued, so it would serve as a layout/gluing template.

Pic. 4:
165 Bricks later…..this is the result. The bricks are from http://www.miniaturziegel.de

Pic. 5:
“Mortar” was then mixed using plaster tinted with coloring (dispersion color/tint), then applied onto the bricks/pressed into the joints.

Pic. 6:
This image shows the wall after the excess plaster has been wiped off, and the concrete header and foundation have been added. The header and foundation pieces were made by building very basic forms out of wood strips, and adding tinted plaster. When dry the pieces were removed from the forms, given some additional staining using water and powdered stains/tints, and glued in place.

Pic. 7 – 9
Images of the vent window.

Pic. 10-14:
These photos illustrate my process for building the door. All the pieces are individually cut from 1mm thick Basswood.
I employed the following steps to achieve the wood finish and chipped paint effect.

1. Brush the wood pieces with Oak stain (water soluble).

2. Apply a grey tone/finish with white and black water colors

3. Seal everything with Flat finish

4. Thinly paint the entire surface/door with a liquid masking Film ( I use Gum Arabic [pic. below], which is available in art supply stores…but other products are available also).

5. Then Brush apply the acrylic paint/color (In my case I used a mix of Ultramarine Blue, Smaragd Green, and Titanium White).

6. Then, using masking tape I carefully begin to remove the paint. This is done in areas at a time, to achieve the desired effect. Some areas may require repeated dabbing, or more pressure, of the tape, in order to get remove the desired amount of paint.

7. Add any additional weathering, staining, streaking as required/preferred.
I prefer to paint the whole door in the Gum Arabic as this way I have the flexibility of removing paint anywhere I feel it needs to once I see the painted door…rather than trying to decide before painting where I want chips, and only applying the GA there….allows me to be more intuitive and flexible with the effect.
To do this door, I probably dabbed it about 100 times to get the amount of peeling….it took about ½ an hour.

Pic. 15-16:
These photos show the quick mold for the side wall. and the end result. The mold was made by simply gluing the boards right to my drawing, then pouring in the tinted plaster as described previously.

Pic. 17:
Another picture of the door with better lighting.

Have fun Modeling!

Marcel

[marc_reusser]

Marcel,

What kind of dispertion colors/tints are you using to stain the plaster?

(Was fuer Dispersionsabt?nfarbe brauchst due fuer den eingef?rbter Gips?)

Marc

[Marcel Ackle]

Marc, I use dispersion colors concentrate, water-based.

Here 2 further pictures. The roof is tiled.





Marcel

[Marcel Ackle]

[Chuck Doan]

beautiful, Marcel! Love that stove pipe!

CD

[marc_reusser]

Macrcel,

Coming along beautifully. The eave and wrapped metal with the nail/bolt heads is nicely done....(it looks almost exactly  like the roof in my back yard...even the eave color  ) .

Do you have any photos of the top of the roof?

What did you use for the metal flashing/edge?


Marc

[MikeC]

Outstanding modeling, Marcel. Your method for creating the peeling/blistering paint effect on the door using gum arabic is interesting. It's one I plan to try soon - along with Chuck Doan's "solvent/acrylic" method.

Thanks, Marc, for providing the translation.