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Author Topic: 2 Foot gauge tractor loco in 1/16th scale  (Read 64567 times)
Hydrostat
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« Reply #105 on: December 06, 2015, 04:58:02 AM »

Wow. That's convincing. Do I get it right that seam diameter is approximately tubing diameter or a bit less?

Cheers,
Volker
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I'll make it. If I have to fly the five feet like a birdie.

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Bill Gill
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« Reply #106 on: December 06, 2015, 06:29:07 AM »

Wow, guess that's why they'll call it "JB Weld(ing seam)" from now on.
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« Reply #107 on: December 06, 2015, 07:14:01 AM »

Simply unbelievable! For years the military modeller branch is discussing HOW to do realistic weld seams. And you are simply going to your work bench and are doing the most finest welds I've ever seen...
Knocked out!

Peter
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« Reply #108 on: December 06, 2015, 08:21:28 AM »

Hi Chuck,

Awesome work, and a breathtaking realism! What type of JB Weld did you use? The steel reinforced expoy?

Franck

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« Reply #109 on: December 06, 2015, 08:59:44 AM »

What we would expect amazing work.

Jerry
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George Carlin
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« Reply #110 on: December 06, 2015, 09:42:08 AM »

It is not for nothing that Chuck is one of the best modellers in the world Smiley
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Frithjof
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« Reply #111 on: December 06, 2015, 04:22:30 PM »

Thanks very much! It's pretty rare that something works without a lot more testing.



Here is the weld as it looks when first brushed on with a 5/0 brush. Plenty of time now to go run errands or what not.


This is the product. It is the original JB Weld, not the Quick Weld.

The tube I used for the tool was .046 inch diameter. The weld seam was about .03 inch wide.




« Last Edit: December 06, 2015, 10:15:58 PM by Chuck Doan » Logged

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« Reply #112 on: January 18, 2016, 09:44:11 PM »



I thought this was kinda neat. The front of the Fordson tractor on my locomotive mounts to the frame using a modified dropped front axle. I needed something strong to support the heavy die-cast tractor, so I had a brass part "printed" by Shapeways. What they actually do is print a wax master from my model file, and then use that to make a lost wax casting. Cost about an hour of my computer time and 17 bucks. Not bad for a one-off custom brass casting. It has some minor layer lines that I will remove and then I will have my first structurally useful printed part!




In the meantime, I have been bogged down adding approx. 40 nuts and bolts to each frame side. Very boring, but I am almost ready to glue the frame together (it is just taped together for the pictures).









« Last Edit: January 19, 2016, 10:39:46 AM by Chuck Doan » Logged

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Ray Dunakin
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« Reply #113 on: January 18, 2016, 10:56:45 PM »

Awesome!

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« Reply #114 on: January 19, 2016, 02:06:50 AM »

Yes, and wonderful, too. How will you remove the layer lines -- by sandblasting, filing, some kind of sandpaper, or what? -- Russ
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« Reply #115 on: January 19, 2016, 04:50:29 AM »

Hi Chuck,

as always great as you build your models.

I found myself just once more the thread unfortunately seen by no detailed information about the roller chain, since the dimensions and the source would interest me closer again.
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Regards Helmut
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« Reply #116 on: January 19, 2016, 06:36:06 AM »

That brass casting looks good (and almost as strong as the toothpick posted previously). I'm curious too how you will clean it up.
Just to be clear about the cost - the computer time was yours? and the $17 covered the wax master and the lost wax casting by Shapeways? That sounds like a good deal.
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« Reply #117 on: January 19, 2016, 08:18:06 AM »

Wow that is unbelievable.  Your work is just beautiful.

Jerry
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Chuck Doan
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« Reply #118 on: January 19, 2016, 09:32:48 AM »

Russ, I have already cleaned most of it; I used sandpaper and files. The lines are very shallow, but it does take a bit more effort than the FUD material .

Helmut, the chain is made by Kyosho for radio controlled motorcycles. It is 3mm pitch. I bought it on Amazon.

Bill, the 17 dollars is the cost from Shapeways less shipping. I think a very good deal for a single custom part. And they do it all, and the part is delivered in a little velvet pouch. I don't know what my computer time costs. I could never have fabricated a part for that cost, and it would not look as good.

Thanks Ray and Jerry!
« Last Edit: January 19, 2016, 10:41:05 AM by Chuck Doan » Logged

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Allan G
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« Reply #119 on: January 20, 2016, 03:49:08 PM »

Chuck; how do you attach the front dropped axle to the frame?.....Allan
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